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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Minh Nguyen Is New Chef at Bleu

Michael Donahue

Chef Minh Nguyen

Minh Nguyen is the new executive chef at Bleu Restaurant & Lounge in The Westin Memphis Beale Street.

“I have never been so excited in my life,” says Nguyen, 48, who was executive chef at Izakaya, owner/executive chef at Rain, executive chef/catering Yia Yia’s European Bistro, and chef de cuisine at BlueFin.

“Bleu is just the golden opportunity that I’ll never get anywhere in Memphis. Bleu reminds me of when you go to Miami, L.A., or New York. The type of food I want to bring will have that flair.”

His cuisine won’t be the food typically associated with Memphis. “You can go get barbecue anywhere.”

Nguyen wants to bring food “that’s new. Something’s that unique. Something’s that very affordable.”

Since Bleu is across the street from FedExForum and near the Orpheum, the restaurant will offer three menus – fine dining, family-oriented, and sushi.

“We are going to be doing sushi, but not sushi you find here in Memphis. The new strain of sushi is more refined. More quality ingredients done in a new way. Old sushi is out. New sushi is in.”

New sushi is made of African couscous, which is a short-grain rice, Nguyen says. “We’re going to sous vide a lot of our fish where it will look raw, but you’re actually eating a cooked product. A lot of the sauces will be more molecular. We’re going to get away from drizzling and keep the plate cleaner.”

September 27th, Ngyun says, he will “be in the kitchen.”

“We’re just really excited about what he can bring to the table,” said Chris Griffin, Bleu director of food and beverage. “We’re looking forward to it. I know he’s got a great following, so I’m glad to have those folks with us, also.”

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

A Whirlwind Tour of New Memphis Breakfasts and Brunches

In season two of Parks and Recreation, Leslie Knope famously wondered, “Why would anyone ever eat anything besides breakfast food?” Why indeed. Breakfast isn’t just delicious, it’s also devilishly trendy.

As usual, Memphis finds itself at the bleeding edge of this trend. Last month, we scored a breakfast-only restaurant near Poplar and Perkins, and three culinary standbys have lately started serving brunch. So grab a mimosa and your sexiest Sunday sunglasses: We’re going on a whirlwind tour.

If we do this right, you may never have to eat lunch or dinner again.

There was a moment, two years ago, when Tressa Ogles got serious about pancakes. She had just returned from her Saturday morning jog to find her husband and two daughters making a big mess in the kitchen. For some moms, it would have been a bummer. But Ogles saw a business opportunity.

“Pancakes are a part of our family tradition,” she confesses. “My husband used to make them with his mother every Saturday when he was a little boy. We had been talking for a while about turning it into a restaurant. That day, we just looked at each other and said, I think we can do this.”

And thus was born Staks, a new breakfast joint in East Memphis. You think you know pancakes? You don’t know pancakes. At least not until you’ve tried the lemon-ricotta, Oreo-praline, or (my favorite) birthday cake flavors. Feeling adventurous? Take a dip in the deep fryer and order the Pancake Beignets ($5.95), dusted with powdered sugar and drizzled with caramel sauce.

Justin Fox Burks

If possible, the food is rendered even tastier by the décor. Everything about this place — from the Tiffany-teal walls to the mercury-glass mirrors to the whisk-shaped pendant lamps—is Instagram-ready. Heck, it’s like eating in a jewel box. Best part? You can sit at a community table and cook your own pancakes at a piping-hot griddle.

From East Memphis to Midtown, where foodie favorite Bari Ristorante has recently started serving brunch. Since they opened in 2002, owners Rebecca and Jason Severs have had a bracingly simple food philosophy: source the best ingredients and don’t mess with them too much.

“Jason’s mother is from a tiny town outside of Bari, in Italy,” Rebecca says. “This is the food that he grew up eating, and we wanted to share that.”

That distinguished pedigree is evident in dishes like the Bruschetta with Marmalades and Mascarpone ($10). The house-made bread is light and crusty, and the exquisite jams are prepared by Jason himself (on my visit, they had lemon, grape, and mixed berry). Also recommended: the Grilled Polenta with Pancetta and Caramelized Onion ($12) and a tall glass of bartender Vincent Hale’s sangria ($9).

Of course, some days you don’t feel fancy. Some days, you just want a biscuit. If that’s your speed, saunter on over to Belly Acres. The farm-to-table restaurant has recently opened for breakfast on weekends, and Overton Square may never be the same.

So what’s the secret to the perfect, flaky biscuit?

“Wet batter, fold it eight times. No more, no less,” chef Rob Ray says. “If you overdo it, then the gluten gets all worked up. Then you’re just making a bun.”

He ain’t just whistling Dixie. These are seriously good, melt-in-your-mouth biscuits. You can order them with gravy, but the Chicken Biscuits ($3.50) are even better. Made with free-range chicken that has been marinated in buttermilk and pickle brine, then fried, they’re warm and crispy, like waking up on grandma’s farm.

Justin Fox Burks

Bleu chef Ana Gonzalez

But the innovation award goes to Ana Gonzalez, chef at Bleu Restaurant & Lounge in the Westin. She took a traditional Mexican breakfast — huevos rancheros — and deconstructed it.

The result is Nachos Rancheros ($8), which made its debut last weekend. Here, house-made tortilla chips cozy up to cheese sauce, refried beans, and a fried egg. Top it off with avocado wedges and a bit of pico de gallo, and you’ve got a brunch so tasty, you’ll wonder why you never thought of it. Pairs well with a bloody mary ($10) and a pair of dark sunglasses to ward off paparazzi.

“It’s best on Sunday, when you have a hangover,” says Gonzalez, with a mischievous wink. “That’s why we’re open until 4 p.m.”

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Ana Gonzalez takes the Farmers Market Challenge.

Have you ever stood in front of a crazy-looking vegetable and thought: What the heck is that? Well, good news. Chefs do it too. That’s what happened the other day, when Ana Gonzalez and I stopped by Memphis Farmers Market.

“They’re called muscadines,” a helpful vendor explained. “They’re like red grapes, but the skin’s a little tougher, and they’ve got one to four hard seeds inside.”

As a proud Colombian, Gonzalez can be forgiven for not knowing about muscadines, which are native to the American South. At five foot six she’s a fireball, and she has the endearing habit of calling her friends “baby.” She also happens to be the executive chef at Bleu in the Westin, where she specializes in small, shareable plates packed with bold, fresh flavors.

John Klyce Minervini

muscadines

Oh, and she’s not afraid of muscadines. After learning about them, she snags two pints.

“You can’t take a chef to the farmers market,” Gonzalez jokes. “It’s like porn for us! We wanna buy everything.”

Gonzalez has agreed to take the Flyer’s Farmers Market Challenge. That’s where we take a chef to the farmers market and make lunch. Fortunately, she’s got help: today she’s brought along her two sons, Brian (age 11) and Deven (age 5).

“They behave pretty good,” Gonzalez asserts.

“We’re decent,” Deven amends.

It’s a hot day, so we fortify ourselves with some home-made popsicles from Mama D’s. Gonzalez chooses mango, but her kids prefer cookies and cream. Then it’s time to hit the stalls.

Over the course of an hour, our market basket gradually fills with heirloom tomatoes from Plowboys Produce, herbed goat cheese from Bonnie Blue Farm, duck prosciutto from Porcellino’s, arugula from Whitton Farms, and shiitake mushrooms from Dickey Farms. We’re just about to head for the car when, all of a sudden, the brassy boom of an operatic baritone cuts the air.

“Der Vogelfänger bin ich ja, Stets lustig heisa hop-sa-sa!”

If Santa Claus had arrived with a sleigh of presents, I don’t think the crowd would have been more surprised. Upon closer inspection, the songful stranger reveals himself to be from Opera Memphis, the performance a part of Opera Memphis’ 30 Days of Opera. Gonzalez and her kids have never been to the opera before, but now they say they’re considering it.

“I like the way it sounds,” Deven sings, with an operatic vibrato.

At home in Southaven, we are greeted with a glass of white wine by Gonzalez’ husband, Brian Barrow. The two met at culinary school — Johnson & Wales University in Miami — but their cooking styles couldn’t be more different. Barrow is a classicist, favoring continental dishes with elaborate preparations. By contrast, Gonzalez is more modern, whipping up light, fresh flavors from around the globe.

John Klyce Minervini

Ana Gonzalez, chef at Bleu in the Westin, is a modernist, whipping up fresh flavors from around the globe.

How does a classicist from Los Angeles end up with a modernist from Colombia? Gonzalez says it all started one day in Advanced Pastry class.

She remembers, “It was right after Thanksgiving, and everybody was working over break. And Brian got the professor to move [our quiz] back by a day. I leaned over to my friend and said, ‘I’m gonna marry that man.'”

For lunch, we’re having … everything. Today’s menu includes grilled pork chops and salmon and steak. And peach sangria, and roasted veggies, and a watermelon salad. I assume that Gonzalez and her husband are showing off for the newspaper reporter, but Barrow sets me straight.

“Oh no,” he admonishes, “we do this every Saturday. This is just lunch.”

Lunch, indeed. While I sip wine and snap photos, the family gets to work. After 15 years of marriage, Gonzalez and Barrow function like a well-oiled machine, wordlessly, seeming to read one another’s thoughts. While she whisks the sauce, he’s outside on the grill. Even little Deven gets in on the action, trimming green beans and peeling a turnip.

“My kids are like me,” Gonzalez confesses. “They’re always working.”

John Klyce Minervini

watermelon salad

At last it’s time to eat. The meats are succulent and well-spiced, but by far the best thing on the table is the watermelon salad: an artful arrangement that includes arugula and baby kale, heirloom tomatoes, herbed goat cheese, and duck prosciutto.

True, you can buy most of these ingredients at the grocery store. But getting them fresh from the farmers market makes a difference. The flavors are electric; they are followed by little exclamation marks. Drizzle this salad with a lemon zest vinaigrette, and you’ll never look at watermelon the same way again.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Love Pop on South Main; Bleu’s New Lounge

There isn’t any furniture at Love Pop Soda Shop. That’s right: no tables, no chairs, no display cases. Instead, they’ve got 700 white plastic milk crates. Milk crates to sit on, milk crates to rest your glass on. The bar is actually a long row of — you guessed it — stacked milk crates, topped by a smooth wood panel. You really have to see it to believe it.

You might think that such an arrangement would be the product of necessity, a last-minute fix for a shop that didn’t have the time or money to buy proper furniture. Far from it. The design, by Memphis-based brg3s architects, is actually pretty nifty.

Think about it. Turn a milk crate on its side, stick an LED light behind it, and what do you get? A stylish, semitranslucent display case. Like Legos, Milk crates are cheap and infinitely rearrangeable.

Justin Fox Burks

More important, the design reflects the simplicity of Love Pop’s concept: Do one thing. Do it well. As you may have guessed, Love Pop serves soda — more than 200 varieties and counting — but you won’t find any Mountain Dew around here. Instead, they focus on small-batch bubbles, the kind of pop that is produced like craft beer.

A good example is Simpson Springs Sarsaparilla ($3) — a close cousin to root beer. Whereas the ingredient labels on most corporate sodas read like a chemistry textbook, this 100-year-old recipe, produced at a mom-and-pop shop in South Easton, Massachusetts, includes just four ingredients — and one of them is carbonated spring water.

And the taste? It’s like A&W Root Beer without the jet fuel (high-fructose corn syrup, phosphoric acid, sodium benzoate, etc.). I am no shill for soda, but Simpson Springs surprised me. It’s rich and smooth with undertones of vanilla and sassafras.

Co-owner Mignonne Wright says she dreamed up Love Pop back in 2005, when she and her son, Brendan, were on a road trip through the American West. While driving down Route 66, they happened on a place called Pop Soda Ranch, and Brendan says he thought he had died and gone to heaven.

“Back then I was an 8th-grader,” Brendan explains, “So the idea of over 600 different kinds of soda — that sounded like the best thing in the world to me.”

Wright says she wants Love Pop to be an all-ages hangout, the kind of soda bar that will be refreshingly new to millennials and comfortingly familiar to baby boomers, nostalgic for the lunch counters of the 1950s and 60s. At the grand opening on Saturday, they will give out free ice cream to make floats. How many kinds of ice cream, you ask?

“Just one,” says co-owner Taylor Berger. “Vanilla. We figure you’ve got enough choices with 200 kinds of soda, so you shouldn’t have to stress about ice cream.”

Love Pop Soda Shop, 506 S. Main

www.lovepopsodashop.com

Over at Bleu — the restaurant in the Westin — they’ve updated their lounge with new paint and furniture. And there’s a brand-new tap system for beer. But the real news at Bleu isn’t the lounge. It’s the revamped menu by chef Ana Gonzalez.

A ball of energy with a tight ponytail, Gonzalez comes to Memphis by way of Colombia. After attending culinary school at Johnson and Wales, she went on to work at Disney’s Contemporary Resort and the Peabody’s Capriccio Grill. In the three months since she came on at Bleu, she has given the restaurant a bold new flavor, emphasizing small plates that feature fresh, local ingredients.

Take the Bacon-Wrapped Shrimp with Polenta Cake ($8). A pair of tiny towers draped with micro-greens from Memphis’ Green Girl Produce, it’s Gonzalez’s mischievous take on shrimp and grits. (Grits and polenta are essentially the same thing; the only difference is the type of corn used and the fineness of the grind.)

Drizzled with deliciously vinegary barbecue sauce, Gonzalez’s shrimp strikes the right balance. At the top, there is the fresh taste of micro-greens like radish and daikon sprouts. In the middle, the plump richness of shrimp and bacon. And at bottom, the crisp crunch of fried polenta. The best part? It’s inexpensive, so you can order a second round.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

At the Plate

Bleu Restaurant & Lounge at the Westin recently introduced Kevin Rains as their new executive chef. The launch of his first menu coincided with the second anniversary of the restaurant’s opening.

Justin Fox Burks

Bleu’s rack of lamb

Bleu is the latest challenge in a culinary career that spans over 20 years. Everything started at home, though.

“I always enjoyed cooking. I had an older brother. He followed after my dad; I stayed at home with Mom. She always cooked from scratch in the kitchen, and I just sat up on the counter. I started with her recipes. I’ve always known this was what I wanted to do,” Rains says.

Rains started as a bartender, working at the Half Shell at a time when Ben Smith of Tsunami was the fry cook. He eventually went to culinary school in Denver. After graduation, he worked at the city’s Ritz-Carlton before being hired at another prestigious restaurant in Denver.

“I got an offer from Noel Cunningham, who had been Hugh Hefner’s personal chef. I didn’t know why they chose me, but I found out when I got there. It was because they had all Hispanics and no gringos, and they needed someone to place orders, and I could gab on the phone. It wasn’t because I could cook or anything like that,” Rains says, laughing.

Rains returned to Memphis after a prominent local chef called to offer him a job.

“Erling Jensen called and said he wanted me to run EJ Brasserie. I knew Erling because I trained his dogs. I also train dogs, Great Danes especially,” Rains says.

After EJ Brasserie, Rains spent seven years at Equestria Restaurant & Lounge before opening his own place, Roustica. From there, he took a job teaching at L’École Culinaire. Now, Rains is looking forward to his time at the Westin.

“We’ll be adding a touch of freshness to the menu and doing things they’ve never done here,” he says.

Justin Fox Burks

chef Kevin Rains

Rains has introduced new locally sourced items like a Dickey Farms lion’s mane mushroom with his three mushroom risotto. He is also staying true to Bleu’s tradition of fresh seafood with dishes that include an ahi tuna tostada.

And this far into his career, Rains is as passionate about food as he was in his mother’s kitchen.

“It’s been about a 24-year run in the kitchen, and I’m still learning every day. I love the feeling of making people happy. It makes me happy,” he says.

Bleu, 221 S. Third (334-5950), downtownbleu.com

Blind Bear Speakeasy also has a new chef. David Scott Walker is a native Memphian whose culinary career took him to New York initially.

Walker studied at the International Culinary Center and went on to work at Les Halles, Anthony Bourdain’s old stomping grounds, as well as at a restaurant in the West Village.

“It was a good experience. My cooking is based in French. It’s the most refined of any cooking techniques, but you can take it into any cuisine and do extremely well,” Walker says.

Walker’s return to Memphis started with a visit from Jamie and Jeanette West, owners of the Blind Bear. Walker and Jamie West have been friends since they were both 17.

“They were vacationing in New York and had dinner at my restaurant. We were talking, and they said they wanted me to come down here and do this, and I was like, ‘Yeah, that will actually happen,'” Walker says.

Walker loved New York, but family played a big part in his decision to return to Memphis. Family is also playing a big part on the Blind Bear menu.

“My mom is my pastry chef. She always dreamed of opening a baking company. We were talking about serving great classic desserts from the ’20s and ’30s here, so I told her, ‘If you ever want to start your company, now is the time.’ And she’s doing wonderful stuff. We call it Aunt Mac’s Bakery, because everyone calls her Aunt Mac,” Walker says.

The desserts, such as lemon ice box pie and strawberry cake with a layer of homemade strawberry jam, are only one part of Walker’s plans. He plans to elevate the entire menu.

“This is a great bar with great classic cocktails, but now we need to take the food to the next level to make the food match the cocktails,” he says.

While the cocktails and desserts will hearken back to the Prohibition speakeasy era, Walker will be taking some of the food into the future with dishes like a ball of mozzarella inflated with tomato-basil-scented air, a play on a traditional Caprese salad.

“I’m a science nerd. It’s a passion of mine. I love that aspect of cooking, knowing why certain things react certain ways. I’m not doing a lot of molecular gastronomy here yet. I want to get a good solid menu before we start sneaking in these fun things,” he says.

Blind Bear Speakeasy, 119 S. Main (417-8435), blindbearmemphis.com

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Sandwich Craft

Bleu has a build-your-own-sandwich menu that puts your sad little lunchbox to shame, with options like Ahi tuna, sweet Thai chili sauce, Bermuda onions, local goat cheese, and fried tomato.

Here’s how it works: Take your menu card and mark your choice of protein from options like 100 percent Angus beef, fried catfish, or a portabello mushroom cap. Follow it up with your preference of temperature. (Obviously this matters less with the marinated chicken breast than with the sliced sirloin steak.) Then home in on the bread to suit your mood. Fried catfish? Opt for a poor-boy French bread. Going for lean with chicken breast? Try a tortilla wrap. Hankering for a burger? For an additional $3 you can have it on a grilled cheese bun — your burger placed between two grilled cheese sandwiches.

The rest of the menu plays out much as you would expect, with plenty of room for innovation and a chance for blunders as well. Six sauces, six cheeses, 10 regular toppings, and five premium toppings await your selection. How well do Jarslberg Swiss, fried egg, and something called Spicy Fancy Sauce go together? There’s only one way to find out, and the joy of having all those sauces and cheeses and toppings at the flick of your pen is worth the gamble. You might just find a new favorite sandwich.

Bleu, 221 S. Third (334-5950)

bleumemphis.com

If you’re less inclined to build your own sandwich and prefer to leave your meal in the hands of a trained professional, Chef Connor O’Neill at eighty3 is your man. For a little over a month, he has been emailing out a list of weekly signature sandwich specials, using the lunch hour as a canvas for his vision of the perfect mid-day meal.

“People in downtown Memphis, it takes them 10 or 15 minutes to get down an elevator and then they’ve got to walk somewhere and get their food and get back out — they really only have about 20 minutes of time,” O’Neill says. “The most efficient way to give them the same quality of food that we give to our nighttime diners was to figure out how to get the products into a format that’s easy to cook, and sandwiches have always been the answer.”

O’Neill has been dedicated to the art of the sandwich since his days in the Army.

“I love a good sandwich. When I was in boot camp, anything that fit between two pieces of bread was about as much time as you had to eat,” he says. “It got me started there.”

Now ask him about any of his menu items, and you’ll see how far he’s come from the days when whatever-fits-between-two-slices-of-bread was the standard. He eagerly explains, at length, how each component contributes to a complete flavor and texture profile.

“I like layers of texture and flavor,” O’Neill says. “If I have a sharp meat like salami, with a lot of meaty, fatty flavor, I’ll want a vinegar to contrast that, something like a slaw. Then I’m going to be looking for a good bread, something that’s going to stand up to the flavors and soak up some of that saltiness but be firm enough not to get soggy. Next, I’m looking for something creamy, like a Provolone cheese, and then finally I need a smoky or grilled flavor, so I’m going to grill my bread.”

O’Neill can wax poetic about any of his sandwiches, from his pulled-pork wrap to his steak sandwich, to his grilled cheese with Gruyère, leek fondue, mushrooms, and a Parmesan-encrusted bread. No wonder he gets excited enough to plan his sandwich offerings two weeks in advance.

Any of the sandwiches can also be ordered as a salad or wrap and will run you about $10. In a hurry? O’Neill encourages patrons to order in advance and swing by to pick up a quick bite on the way to Court Square or back to the office.

eighty3, 83 Madison (333-1224)

eighty3memphis.com

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Feeling Bleu

If you haven’t heard of Bleu yet, you will soon.

The newest restaurant at the corner of Beale and Third, in the former location of Sole, has waged an extensive marketing campaign: mysterious emails, microsites, and advertisements about a “neu” restaurant downtown, various “cleus” about the identity of the restaurant, and a mystery-chef gig at this year’s Zoo Rendezvous, complete with a curtained-off kitchen and a fog machine.

Yes, a fog machine.

And according to executive chef Robert Nam Cirillo, the second wave of their marketing campaign is on its way. When asked if the new restaurant could live up to the hype, Cirillo answered confidently that it would.

“It’s a great bar for us to set and meet and then go over,” he says. “We made a promise to our customers that we will give them something that is new and bold and distinctly different.”

Bold and different come into play with the much-discussed “Grand Finale” on the dessert menu. It’s sort of edible art prepared before the diners’ eyes on a piece of thin wax paper: Molten chocolate cake, vanilla bean gelato, fresh berries, crystallized bacon, Oreo “dust,” chocolate-chip cookie crumble, toasted meringue, chocolate paint, seasonal sauces, and freeze-dried bread pudding are all on the chef’s palette.

Not surprisingly, blueberries are a feature or garnish in many of the dishes, like the blueberry cheesecake, grilled corn and blueberry salad, and the coffee and cocoa lamb chops with blueberry chutney and pomegranate reduction. The specialty martini is the Bleu Steel, made with vodka, simple syrup, muddled blueberries, thyme, and lemon juice.

Otherwise, the menu is what Cirillo describes as “eclectic and worldly.”

And worldly is something Cirillo knows a lot about. Korean-born, he was adopted into an Italian family in New York and grew up cooking in the classical Italian tradition. These influences come together in his favorite dish — the Maine lobster and shrimp pappardelle pasta, served with a spicy green curry sauce.

“I always saw America as a melting pot of cultures, and with cultures come cuisines, so I really think American food is a worldly cuisine,” he says.

Cirillo spent 10 years cutting his teeth on the restaurant scene in Rhode Island before seizing this opportunity at the Westin hotel in downtown Memphis. The New England flare is alive and well in his accent and in the menu’s extensive seafood dishes, including crab claws flown in fresh from Maryland.

Another nice touch is the menu’s drink recommendations, which accompany each entrée item and range from pricey wines to Amstel Light.

Cirillo laughs at this. “I love beer,” he says. “I wanted a place on the menu where I could just recommend Budweiser.”

There are more sophisticated selections as well, like local favorite Ghost River beer on tap and a lengthy cocktail and wine menu.

Bleu is the official hotel restaurant for the Westin, so they serve a full breakfast every day at 6:30 a.m., including a farmers market omelet and Cirillo’s favorite: a smoked salmon eggs Benedict. They also offer late-night hours for special events like Grizzlies games at FedExForum. (We’re talking to you, NBA lockout.) A blue piano sets the stage for live music as well, like that of local lounge singer Lee Taylor.

Dinnertime won’t be optimal for vegetarians, as all of the entrées are meat-based, but lunch offers a host of options, like the chef’s plate or the build-your-own sandwich menu. While a dinner entrée will run you from $23 to $30, you can grab lunch for $7 to $10.

One of the benefits of being a hotel restaurant is that Bleu keeps long hours, and you can snag a bite to eat pretty much anytime you fancy. Bleu is open every day at 6:30 a.m. and closes at 10 p.m. Monday through Wednesday, 11 p.m. or later on Friday and Saturday, and 4 p.m. on Sunday. Bleu, 221 S. Third (334-5950), bleumemphis.com