Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Ciao Bella’s Branon Mason.

If you’re craving a particular type of dish, describe it to Branon Mason. He’ll make it happen.

“I create things on the spot,” says Mason, 36, Ciao Bella Italian Grill executive chef. “It’s kind of like jazz. You know how you get a solo in jazz? It’s like, ‘All right. Pick the solo and go make something.’ That’s pretty much been me.”

Where does that talent come from? “I have no idea. The ability to create on the fly, maybe it’s something from my musical background. Maybe it’s something from being into sports. A lot of thinking on your feet type of things.”

Mason’s first love was football. “I played Pop Warner Football for the Cherokee Dolphins. That was in a little neighborhood on the edge of Orange Mound.”

Football as a career was over for the most part after Mason suffered ligament damage to his knee.

He ended up joining the Overton High School band. His band director said Mason “had the lips of a tuba player.”

He landed a scholarship to Tennessee State University in Nashville, where he was part of the concert, brass ensemble, and pep bands as a freshman, but he flunked out. “Not being used to the whole college atmosphere and being away from home for the first time, it was too much for me.”

Mason had worked the doughnut machine at a Krispy Kreme when he was 16 and, later, flipped hamburgers at a Wendy’s and made sandwiches at a McAlister’s Deli, but he had no desire to make cooking a career.

That is, until he got a job at the Olive Garden on Winchester.

“Once I got the grasp of how to cook and saute and grill and prep, I ran with it. I fell in love with cooking at the Olive Garden,” he says.

But he didn’t feel creative. “I just knew I was a cook at Olive Garden, but a chef was something different.”

He began “researching chefs and what they do. On the internet. Books. I can remember going to sit in Barnes & Noble and reading The Joy of Cooking.”

Mason moved to New York with the idea of going to culinary school. He got a job at the Blue Fin restaurant of the W Hotel. “It was the biggest kitchen I have ever seen in my life. It was three floors.”

But after a year, he moved back home because he couldn’t afford New York.

Mason got a job at Ciao Bella the day after he returned. He’s been there ever since.

His creativity was unleashed after he became Ciao Bella’s head chef in 2013. “I started getting into taking pictures of my food. And Instagram came out. I was like, ‘All right. I can make something new and put it out and people will see it and people will come here and taste it. That idea just lifted me.”

The Ciao Bella menu features favorite dishes from the restaurant’s owners — the Tashie family. Mason and family members collaborate on how to execute those dishes. Most of Mason’s creativity is seen in his specials, like the shrimp cocktail he featured.

Ciao Bella owner Paul Tashie wanted Mason to come up with a shrimp cocktail. “I’m like, ‘Okay. How can I take shrimp cocktail and make it new and fresh and exciting? And also have it relate to the restaurant and the Italian/Greek thing? I orchestrated a Greek spice blend that I marinated my shrimp in, using oregano, lemon, garlic. I grilled the shrimp.”

Instead of the “good old red traditional” cocktail sauce, Mason blended basil pesto, traditional horseradish, and “a sweet tomato essence” to come up with a “basil, pesto cocktail sauce. And it was a killer.”

Using purple Peruvian potatoes, Mason made a purple potato puree. “The color from it — the bright pink from the shrimp, the royal beautiful purple for the potato, and the bright green from the pesto — it just made a ridiculous color scheme.”

Mason’s dishes are combination of care and the “wow factor,” he says. “Something that’s special that you wouldn’t think you’d put on a plate. Just knowing those things and trying to incorporate them into my cooking, that’s what translates. That’s what you get. Just raw, unpolished gold.”

Ciao Bella Italian Grill is at 565 Erin Drive, (901) 205-2500.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

A Taste of the New Menu at Ciao Bella

John Klyce Minervini

Ciao Bella’s Piccolo Sara ($10)

We’ve been itching to try the new menu at Ciao Bella for a while now. So when The Flyer got a chance to grab lunch with I Love Memphis’s Holly Whitfield, we jumped at it. I mean, come on. Wouldn’t you like to have lunch with this charming person?
John Klyce Minervini

I Love Memphis’s Holly Whitfield

We started with the Tuscan White Bean & Kale Soup ($4 cup). And you know what? There’s something special about that soup. Here’s Ciao Bella executive chef Branon Mason:

“I grew up eating soul food,” says Mason, “so I try to incorporate that into some of my recipes.”

[jump]

In the white bean soup, that meant eschewing vinegar in favor of a top-secret pepper juice. Which pepper juice, precisely? Mason wouldn’t say. But the soup was pretty tasty: warm and full-bodied, with a playful kick from its secret ingredient.

Next it was time for the BLTA&E($9). Piled high with avocado (A) and fried egg (E), this hefty sandwich also features roasted garlic aioli on wheatberry bread. This ain’t your mama’s BLT, and I predict it will be a big hit.
John Klyce Minervini

Ciao Bella’s BLTA&E Sandwich ($9)

My favorite dish of the day was definitely the Piccolo Sara ($10, pictured at top of page). It’s a simple variation on the classic Italian flavor combination: spinach + cherry tomatoes + parmesan. But at Ciao Bella, they swap out the fresh tomatoes for sun-dried, and ditch the parmesan in favor of goat cheese.

It’s an inspired combination: wonderfully light, with lots of room for the fresh flavors to shine through. Also, as Holly points out in her recent post for I Love Memphis, it’s great for carb-loading, whether you happen to be training for this Saturday’s St. Jude Marathon—or you’re just a person who likes carbs (: