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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Beloved Barksdale’s Returns

Rise and shine. Breakfast is almost ready.

Barksdale’s, the iconic eatery at 237 Cooper Street, is about to reopen after a fire in June 2024.

And I can’t wait.

“We’re hoping to open by the end of next month,” Bryant Bain says. “By the end of March.”

Bain, his wife Heather, and Ryan Glosson are the new owners of Barksdale’s. They’re also the owners of Bain Barbecue down the street at 993 Cooper Street in Cooper-Young.

Why did they want to buy Barksdale’s? “We’ve all eaten there,” Bryant says. “And it’s been in the community for so many years.”

When they heard Barksdale’s was going to close, they knew that couldn’t happen. It was, “Hey, if we can do something about it, we’re going to.”

They’re going to retain as much of the look and atmosphere of the old Barksdale’s as possible. “We’re trying to keep it feeling like it used to be.”

Barksdale’s in the early days (Photo: Courtsey Barksdale’s)

But, Heather adds, “They had a terrible fire. Because of grandfather laws and stuff, we had to redo the vast majority of it.”

They had to get “all new electric,” Bryant says. As well as “rebuild the bathrooms. The ceilings are new. All new light fixtures. Everything is new except the walls.”

They did save the bar and tables and chairs. “That kind of thing.”

Plates and cups were also saved, Heather says.

As for the employees, Bryant says, “They’re all invited to come back. Some of them obviously had to get other jobs.”

But, he says, “I know Miss Debbie [Miller] and Bert [McElroy] are coming back, for sure. Some kitchen staff are coming back.”

Classic Bob’s Barksdale’s breakfast (Photo: Courtsey Barksdale’s)

Asked what they ate when they used to visit Barksdale’s, Heather says, “I would just get eggs and bacon.”

Bryant got the plate lunch. “More of the veggies, to be honest.”

Customers can look for their favorites on the menu. “It’s going to be the same type of menu, but I’ve overhauled it to make it fresher,” Bryant says. “Everything is going to be homemade. A lot of things they were making out of bags. And I just don’t do that.”

Asked if they’re going to sell barbecue at Barksdale’s, Bryant says, “We will not be.”

In April 2024, I did a story about Barksdale’s, then known as Bob’s Barksdale Restaurant, for Memphis Magazine. This was my description of the place after I ate there that morning: “Every table is taken on my visit. Photos of smiling customers on memorabilia-covered walls look down on the smiling faces of customers talking and eating. Servers with coffee pots wind around tables pouring refills and taking orders.”

The original Barksdale Restaurant was at 227 South Barksdale Street, owner Beth Henry told me. The owner’s last name was Stamson, she said. He was from Greece.

The restaurant moved to where it is now around 1968. Stamson gave the restaurant to his son Jerry Stamson, who sold it to Bob Henry in 2000, Beth said. Bob changed the name to Bob’s Barksdale Restaurant.

Beth married Bob, who she got to know after she began visiting the restaurant from her job at an insurance company across the street. She took over the restaurant after Bob died. 

“We were just friends for years,” Beth told me in my interview. “I’d come over and have coffee. Then I got to know people. And I got to know some of the servers. And then later on in life it worked out to where we ended up getting together and got married. I just knew that he was a good man.”

Not much was done to the interior after she took over, Beth told me. When she pondered the idea of sprucing the place up a bit after she bought it, she said, “You could hear the Midtown gasps: ‘No, no, no. We like it like that.’”

She said customers told her they began going to the Barksdale with their dad and now they bring their granddaughter.

Beth did say she had interior painting done when they were closed for 82 days during the pandemic. And then she had to repair the foyer after a car crashed into the front of the restaurant on June 26, 2022.

She said half the customers are college students. “We have some customers who have been coming here 30, 40 years. When we don’t see them, we start to worry.”

And she told me over the years, weddings, birthdays, anniversaries, and the filming of at least one short movie took place at the Barksdale.

Now the beloved Barksdale’s is about to return.

Categories
Opinion The Last Word

Memphis Is my Boyfriend: Snow Days, Losers, and Food!

It’s time for another tween/teen-friendly Memphis weekend! My kids are 15, 12, 12, (happy belated b-day, twins), and 10 years old. Unfortunately, this particular weekend landed on the Memphis Snowmageddon! So we went nowhere. But that doesn’t mean we did nothing!

Monday — Everything was covered in snow. It was MLK Day and I had planned on doing nothing anyway. I had stopped by High Point Grocery a few days before and picked up some items. (Hubby stopped by a store, too … a liquor store.) In other words, we had everything we needed. As I rolled over to go back to sleep, I heard a noise in the kitchen. First thought, “What could anyone possibly require from the kitchen at this hour?” Second, “I wonder how much those cabinets cost that close really slowly to prevent slamming them?” After listening to the cacophony that comes with someone cooking in — and destroying — the kitchen, a soft knock rapped at my door. My oldest child fixed me breakfast in bed! Hot Cream of Wheat topped with baked apples. We piddled around as we waited for MSCS to announce schools were closed. When they did, my hubby reminded the kids that they still had to brush their teeth and take baths.

Tuesday — When my kids are at school, I never hear tales of them starving. So can someone explain to me how at 10 a.m. we had to have a family meeting about the rationing of food? First, we took inventory of what we had on hand. Then we brainstormed and created a menu of lunch and dinner dishes. Lastly, we laid down the law! Under no circumstance could these crumb-snatchers eat anything that was needed for lunch or dinner. If they got hungry, they could eat a PB&J sandwich, ramen, or canned tomato soup. After spending a good chunk of the day doing work from home, I felt it would be nice to whoop the kids in a game of Monopoly. (I’d won the last two games!) We only had plain tortilla chips for a snack since they ate everything else. The game lasted four hours and I did not win. The last hour was brutal. I endured all sorts of verbal jabs from my oldest, who showed me no mercy. Upon bankrupting, I assigned him the chore of putting everything up neatly. I poured myself a glass of wine to lick my wounds only to be reminded by my daughter that I was supposed to have a “Dry January.” I stared at her in defiance as I drank straight from the bottle.

Wednesday — I woke up late to the smell of something burning. Irritated, I snuggled deeper into the covers. I know what you’re thinking, “You didn’t go see what was burning?” Absolutely NOT! Burnt food falls solidly in the categories of “None of My Business” and “I’m Not Eating It.” So you can imagine my surprise when hubby walks in with a plate of pancakes and coffee. I prepped my “I’m too old to be eating nasty food, even if my kids made it” speech, but was greeted with two perfect chocolate chip pancakes.

Later, I announced I was making chicken and dumplings for dinner. To be fair, I did Eeny, Meeny, Miny, Moe to decide who would be my sous-chef. I began, “Eeny, Meeny, Miny, Moe … ” Before I could finish, one of the twins HOLLERS and then calmly walks away. I was confused. Then the penny dropped. “If he hollers, let him go.” So I had to let him go and choose from the remaining kids. That was never the rule when I was growing up, but it makes sense. As I plated the dumplings, I called the kids down for dinner. They stared at their bowls, back at me, and back to their bowls. Twin #2 asked, “Where are the chicken dumplings?” Befuddled, I pointed to his bowl. He replied, “No, I thought you were making chicken dumplings like the ones at a Chinese restaurant.” While they devoured the meal, I told them the history of Southern chicken and dumplings and Black cuisine. Later we played “Uno No Mercy.” I lost that game, too.

Thursday — I opened my eyes to hubby placing a cup of coffee on my nightstand. I had to make my own breakfast, so I headed to the kitchen. I was greeted by my oldest son with a hug and a request. Can I teach him how to make French toast? Of course! We served up some French toast, and he topped it with his homemade whipped cream and baked apples. I balanced my day with work, video games, and reading. Everything was going swell until we ran out of dishwasher detergent. It’s now every person and dish for themselves. New rule: If you mess up a dish, you must wash it by hand! We are also dangerously low on eggs and butter. But not low on deodorant, which the boys seem to think is not a necessity. We played the Exploding Cats card game. I lost that game, too. My Dry January has officially changed to a Damp January.

Friday — My sleep cycle is all off. I woke up at 5 a.m., read in bed, went back to sleep, and finally woke up for good at 11 a.m. I was not greeted with breakfast in bed or hot coffee. I was served a nice Memphis-style “roasting” for sleeping so late. Since my clapbacks are infamously lame, I kept my mouth closed.

We spent the afternoon playing Nintendo Switch Sports. I did okay in bowling and golf. Not good enough to call it winning, but I’m proud of myself regardless. My oldest asked if I could teach him how to make chocolate chip cookies, so I busted out my recipe book and baked a batch with him. I am thankful for my tweens/teens. Because snow days with little children are not for the faint of heart.

Patricia Lockhart is a native Memphian who loves to read, write, cook, and eat. Her days are filled with laughter with her four kids and charming husband. By day, she’s a school librarian and writer, but by night … she’s asleep. @realworkwife @memphisismyboyfriend

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Staks Pancake Kitchen Embraces Expansion Opportunity

Staks Pancake Kitchen is about to have a new home outside the Mid-South. Ten new homes, in fact.

Owner Brice Bailey recently announced plans to franchise the Staks brand at 10 new locations through his LLC, The Bailey Group, in partnership with Lynda Sanford, CEO of Atlanta-based Classics Dining and Hospitality group.

“We’ve been working on this for 11 months now, and signed a Franchise Disclosure Document back in June,” Bailey says. “Lynda came to us with a good plan, and we really like the market. She’s done a great job of identifying locations across the state of Georgia, but mainly in the greater Atlanta area.” There have been approaches for franchises in other states as well, but Bailey doesn’t want to rush the process. So for now, the focus remains on Atlanta.

The expansion comes as an added boost for Staks, which bucked the trend and saw increased sales during most of 2020 and 2021. That leaves Bailey confident that the new restaurants can make a big impact beyond the comforts of home.

“We’re a breakfast and lunch place, but I think our uniqueness really helps,” he says. “We’ve got some menu items that are really creative and have become favorites here. For example, our Bomb Melts are made from bomboloni bread, which is used to make Italian donuts. I haven’t seen that anywhere else. It’s just a lot of items you won’t see at your typical upscale breakfast and lunch places.”

Oreo Praline pancakes at Staks Pancake Kitchen

Many of the familiar favorites will remain constant from franchise to franchise, but Bailey wants each new Staks to be a reflection of its environment. He and other leadership at the Bailey Group will urge new owners to add some of their own ideas, all while incorporating ingredients sourced from farms local to the restaurants’ respective areas. “It should feel like a hometown store in whatever market we go into,” he explains.

Bluff City breakfast lovers need not worry — in coming up with new creative items, Staks isn’t turning its back on its two Memphis locations. “We’ve been workshopping a few new things here,” says Clint Kelso, COO of the Bailey Group and general manager at Staks’ Germantown location. “We’ll have stuffed French toast made with that same bomboloni bread. It’s stuffed with cream cheese, covered with a blueberry glaze, and topped with fresh blueberries and strawberries.

“We’re also adding a breakfast Reuben sandwich. The bread is French toast, and it will have cinnamon sugar sauerkraut instead of a traditional thousand island dressing.”

One new item that Bailey is particularly interested in is a barbecue hash recipe. “It’s like a hash-brown from the skillet,” he says, with ham, pulled pork, sausage, and Staks’ own jerk sauce.

But the most exciting development for pancake lovers is proposed additions to an already robust selection of “Sophisticated Staks,” the restaurant’s list of inventive takes on pancakes. Bailey says that pancakes and French toast sales soared during the pandemic. Coupled with plenty of extra time in the kitchen, the team has plenty of ideas.

“We’re definitely going to expand on those menus,” says Bailey. “So if you want to switch it up with something like cinnamon roll French toast, things like that, we’ll be able to accommodate you.”

The Bailey Group plans to be hands-on with all the upcoming Staks locations (including a third local branch in Southaven slated to open within the next six weeks), and has training all planned out. “It’s too early to tell when the first Atlanta location will open,” Kelso says, “but Lynda has plans to open two to three new locations per year.”

The vanilla-glazed, rainbow-sprinkled Birthday Cake pancakes