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Sun’s Out, (Burger) Buns Out

Oh, the weather outside is frightful-ly hot, but a fired-up grill is so delightful. That’s right, Memphis, it’s the most bunderful week of the year: Burger Week. That means you get some of the best burgers Memphis has to offer at a pretty awesome price of $6.99 from Wednesday, August 7th, to Tuesday, August 13th. Without further ado, here are this year’s Burger Week burgers.  

Sunrise | Sunrise Patty Melt (Photo: Sarah Morse)

Sunrise Memphis
Sunrise Patty Melt

The last time I had a hamburger for breakfast was probably when I ate a Krystal at 5 a.m. or something back in the day. That would have been on the way home, though, not after waking up in the morning.

Sunrise Memphis is offering the “Sunrise Patty Melt” for its Burger Week selection. Its creator, Sunrise Memphis executive chef Will Sater, calls it “a double smash patty with a cheddar cheese, jalapeño, cream cheese, and bacon jam we make in-house. And an over-easy egg.”

They had a version of the sandwich for last year’s Burger Week, but it was on a brioche bun instead of Texas toast like now. “We thought the toast was a little better for the texture.”

Sater continues, “Oh, it exploded. It was a very good product for us. And people seem to enjoy it, so it’s turned into a hit for us.”

It exploded like the egg can when cut with a knife. “It’s a messy burger, for sure. But just seeing that egg run out is kind of the pièce de résistance, as we like to say. You want to see that egg oozing out. It makes it feel more like breakfast, for sure.”

The Sunrise Patty Melt ended up on the menu. “People kept asking for it. So, we just decided to put it on the menu. And it turned into a big thing here.” — Michael Donahue

Jack Brown’s | Ron Swanson (Photo: Jon W. Sparks)

Jack Brown’s
Crab Rangoon Burger

As dives go, Jack Brown’s Beer & Burger Joint is as funky as you’d want, but with generous helpings of surprises. One of the chain’s co-founders proclaimed, “We’re a dive bar, not a dump,” and it’s certainly not your average burger and beer joint. Those are some high-end burgers, all of which are made with Wagyu beef from Snake River Farms in Idaho and slapped down on Martin’s potato buns. What’s more, all ingredients are made in-house. Any burger on the menu is a delight, but consider what’s being offered during Memphis Flyer Burger Week: The Crab Rangoon Burger, with that delectable Wagyu beef, topped with house-made crab Rangoon (mixed with cream cheese), fried wontons, and sweet Thai chili sauce, served on that potato bun. Tragically, I was too early to sample that one, but I’ll be back now that Burger Week is underway. Meanwhile, I gladly dug into the Tuesday special, the Ron Swanson, with bacon, Muenster cheese, and barbecue bacon mayo. My companion got the Elvis burger that’s topped with some peanut butter. And the fries were scrumptious, begging to be dipped in an onion aioli sauce, which now replaces any ketchup tendencies we used to have. Phenomenal burgers and (despite the bras discreetly hanging from a light fixture) family-friendly! — Jon W. Sparks 

Tops Bar-B-Q | Policeman Burger (Photo: Patrick Collins)

Tops Bar-B-Q
Policeman Burger

Tops Bar-B-Q, whose iconic cheeseburger is special in its own right, is featuring the Policeman Burger as its Burger Week selection.

Describing the burger, Hunter Brown with Tops, says it’s a “Tops famous cheeseburger on a bed of mayonnaise, pickles, with applewood bacon, grilled onion, slow-smoked brisket, and Sweet ‘N’ Saucy barbecue sauce.”

Naming it the Policeman had to do with how Tops supports members of the Memphis Police Department. They protect communities where Tops team members as well as customers live and work, says Randy Hough with Tops. It’s important for Tops to bring attention to them for the job they’re doing there every day.

I could have yelled out how good this over-the-top sandwich is at the Tops Cordova location where I tried it for the first time. But nobody had to call the police. I kept my calm. — MD

Rock’n Dough | The Classic Burger (Photo: Toby Sells)

Rock’n Dough
The Classic Burger

How do you get beer into a hamburger? 

The question has vexed armies of scientists for generations. The team at Rock’n Dough Pizza & Brewery has finally answered it.

The solution lies in the pickles. The menu lists them as “house-made hop pickles.” That’s right. Rock’n Dough’s food geniuses flavored pickles with hops, the beer ingredient that lifts heavy on aroma, flavor, and bitterness. I’m a hop-head/IPA bro, so it’s one of my favorites. 

Those pickles can be found on The Classic Burger at Rock’n Dough. It’s a stripped-down street-racer of a burger that relies on old-school flavor punch — not some flashy topping-of-the-month — to deliver the goods. And it sure does. 

One bite transported me back to the lake or the ballpark, places I first learned to savor and appreciate food in the first place. Like a great beer, The Classic was balanced and you could taste the beef, the garlic-basil mayo, the seasoning, and all the ingredients, especially the pickles. The hop flavor was subtle, but I swore they’d figure out how to get a beer in my burger. And my hat went off to them. — Toby Sells

Farm Burger | Classic Farm Burger with kale slaw (Photo: Alex Greene)

Farm Burger
The Spicy Pimento

Living as close as I do to Farm Burger in the Crosstown Concourse, I eat there often, and though I didn’t order their special Burger Week offering when I stopped in last week (the Spicy Pimento, with their usual 100-percent grass-fed beef burger, pimento cheese, pasture-raised bacon, pickled jalapenos, and sherry-date barbecue sauce), the burger I did get was a lesson in how you just can’t go wrong with an establishment so focused on fresh, local food as the basis of its menu.

I’ve become a big fan of their kale slaw as an alternative to French fries, so I ordered a side of it with my regular, reliably delicious Farm Burger, the eatery’s flagship sandwich. But the burger that was served was even more delicious than expected: The kitchen had misunderstood, thinking I wanted only a kale slaw topping, and that’s what I got. Imagine my surprise!

One bite and I was hooked. The texture of the well-dressed kale leaves complements your basic Farm Burger to a T, adding a new texture and flavor profile to the aged white cheddar, caramelized onions, and Farm Burger sauce toppings that are usually included. Of course, I soon was craving my usual side of kale slaw as well, which the attentive servers promptly brought to my table. But I won’t soon forget the brilliant mistake of adding kale slaw directly to my burger. Indeed, next time I’m there I’ll suggest that addition on my Spicy Pimento Burger.
Alex Greene

Huey’s | World Famous Huey Burger (Photo: Kailynn Johnson)

Huey’s
World Famous Huey Burger

Huey’s has had a special place in my heart ever since it was the finale to an eighth grade field trip. However, I’m a bit embarrassed to admit that in my 12 years of being an avid Huey’s-goer I hadn’t tried a burger from there until this week. 

I know! I know! But let’s say that my first Huey’s burger is a Burger Week staple — and it’s worth the hype. I haven’t had an actual burger in years, opting for leaner meats instead, and I’d classify this as an actual burger. You know, the one you see in some TV show from the ’90s that the characters seem to neglect over frivolous dialogue — despite the mouthwatering entree before them. 

I tried the World Famous Huey’s burger fully loaded (minus the onions) with cheddar. I added a side of sweet potato fries which were the perfect addition. This will definitely be added to the cheat meal rotation. — Kailynn Johnson

Tug’s Casual Grill | BBQ Cheddar Burger (Photo: Shara Clark)

Tug’s Casual Grill
BBQ Pulled Pork Burger

For this year’s Burger Week, Tug’s is offering an upgrade to their BBQ Cheddar Burger — a menu item served with fries, typically priced at $16.95. So consider their BW deal a steal! The standard is a half-pound sirloin patty, topped with housemade barbecue sauce, cheddar cheese, crispy onion straws, lettuce, tomato, onion, and pickles (as pictured above). The special will come with a helping of housemade pulled pork in the mix. I tried the standard on my visit, since the pulled pork wasn’t available at the time. No complaints from me! This was a top-notch burger. The slightly sweet sourdough bun was the perfect vessel for its contents. The well-seasoned massive patty had that fresh-from-the-grill crust. The surprise bits of crunch from the fried onion straws were delightful. Now, envision all that with a scoop of pulled pork. Is your mouth watering? It should be. P.S. The seasoned fries are the bomb (think Back Yard Burgers but way better) and are included in the BW offering. Don’t sleep on this! — Shara Clark

Loflin Yard | Baja Burger (Photo: Chris McCoy)

Loflin Yard 
Baja Burger

I always have a relaxing time when I go to Loflin Yard. For this visit to the sprawling, mostly outdoor compound, the heat that has gripped the Bluff City had mostly dissipated for the evening. I grabbed a table in view of the TV that was showing the Olympic gymnastics team final, and ordered my Baja Burger. 

The Baja is a staple of the Loflin Yard menu. It comes with a thin patty on a brioche bun, topped with red cabbage slaw, spicy aioli, bacon, and pineapple. It’s the latter ingredient that is unusual for a burger. But, as it turns out, it is not a showstopper like pineapple on pizza. I was pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed the Baja. In this burger, the beef is not the primary attraction. Instead, it’s the combination of the pineapple and thick slabs of peppered bacon. It’s quite tasty and quite unusual. At least, I wouldn’t have thought of it! As with most things in life, it’s the balance that makes it good. Simone Biles would probably approve. — Chris McCoy

Bain Barbecue | Special Burger (Photo: Chris McCoy)

Bain Barbecue 
Special Burger

The former food truck moved into a brick and mortar location in Cooper-Young a little over two years ago, says manager Emily James. The idea to add a burger to their menu came after a Super Bowl party where the restaurant ran out of their trademark Texas-style barbecue brisket. “We tried to start doing burgers back in February. We started out with wings on our Anytime menu, and burgers just kind of came naturally.”

Bain’s Special Burger is a smashburger that features a Home Place Pastures patty with “shrettuce,” house-made pickles, and Jones Orchard heirloom tomatoes. It’s topped with a secret sauce. “I think it brings out the burger flavor a lot,” says James. 

The smashburger comes on a Martin’s potato buns. “Every sandwich has a Martin’s potato bun,” says James. “We just started putting those on the grill, too, and let ’em sit for a second. We let ’em get a little crusty.” 

For a side with your juicy burger, you can choose the five-cheese mac, a baked potato salad, brisket pinto beans, jalapeno lime slaw, or the traditional french fries. The best part about getting a burger at a barbecue joint is that you can dip your fries in one of Bain’s barbecue sauces. I tried all three flavors — hot, sweet, and mustard — and unexpectedly, the mustard sauce won! — CM

Betly Sports Bar & Grill | Smokey Baloney (Photo: Courtesy Southland Casino)

Betly Sports Bar & Grill
Smokey Baloney

So, uh, here’s the thing. I don’t eat meat, but I’m supposed to write about a burger? Who in their right mind wants the opinion of a pescatarian about a burger? I don’t even have one to give. I guess I’ll have to stick to objective facts when it comes to the Smokey Baloney at Betly Sports Bar & Grill in Southland Casino & Hotel. First off, what a fun name for a burger. I love the word baloney; I won’t eat it but I’ll call it any day. Ain’t that some baloney? The Smokey Baloney is made of all-beef patty, beef brisket, half-pound fried all-beef bologna, onion rings, and Memphis barbecue sauce. I’m sure that sounds delightful for any burger-loving fool. You can check out the picture above — as they say a picture is worth a thousand words.  

And if you’re looking for an excuse to hit the slot machines, a $6.99 burger sounds as good as any. So get a bang for your buck while you win (or lose) major bucks. — Abigail Morici

Belle Tavern | The Tavern Smash (Photo: Harold Cook)

Belle Tavern
The Tavern Smash

The best way to get to Belle Tavern is by going to the door on Barboro Alley. It’s just a couple hundred feet from Second Street and the Peabody Hotel, but you’ll feel mysterious, in the know, like a spy. It could be almost an underground secret, except for the fact that it’s one of downtown locals’ favorite spots. If you haven’t been to the Belle Tavern yet, this would be a great week to start. And a great way to introduce yourself to their tasty menu would be to order the Tavern Smash, a delicious concoction consisting of a four-ounce, ground-beef smash patty, onions, pickles, dijonnaise mustard, pickles, and a scrumptious house-made sesame bun. Mmmm. This is a cheeseburger classic, and it’s made to be smashed — into your tummy! — Bruce VanWyngarden

Wimpy’s | Rajun Cajun Burger (Photo: Jacob Crafton)

Wimpy’s
Rajun Cajun Burger

As most of us know, one of the most famous lines in Western letters goes this way: “I’d gladly pay you Tuesday for a hamburger today.” The sentiment and the syntax belong to one J. Wellington Wimpy, a character in the comic strip Popeye, created by E.C. Segar. A louche fellow, something of a deadbeat, Wimpy, a chum of the title character, speaks for many of us who want to lay hands (or chomps) on something desirable before we have the means to get it gainfully.

If your goal is the same as Wimpy’s — a good, garden-variety burger — you can get it seven days a week at one of three Memphis-area locations of the Wimpy’s Burgers and Fries. For just over 10 bucks, you can get the basic version — the Wimpy burger — with fries. That’s the kind I got at the Wimpy’s at 7424 US Highway 64, just down the street from my digs. It’s satisfyingly plump, cooked to one’s specifications with all the usual fixings. For a tiny bit more, you can get a super-charged variety called the Rajun Cajun, but for Burger Week, it’s just $6.99. The Rajun Cajun has its own renown, and I sampled enough of the special sauce that goes on it to attest that it’s good and spicy. — Jackson Baker 

For more Burger Week information, visit memphisflyer.com/page/burgerweek. Follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and X (@memphisflyer) and get up-to-date info on everything #FlyerBurgerWeek.

Categories
Cover Feature News

Burger Extravaganza

It’s the Great Burger, Charlie Brown!

That’s right, it’s everyone’s favorite time of the year again: Memphis Flyer Burger Week! For 2023’s celebration of the holy grail of classic American dining, we researched some of the best beef patties around and released our writers all over the city to sample some good ol’ Bluff City hamburgers. The usual suspects are out in force, while some newcomers showed off their tasty takes on ground chuck. All of the restaurants on the following pages are participating in Burger Week this year, so we went ahead and checked out what you can expect for some pretty cool $6.99 deals.

Old Bridge Burger – Loflin Yard

“Oh gee,” mused an indecisive diner during a night out on the town in Downtown Memphis. “What do I want to eat tonight? A hamburger? Some barbecue? Or maybe just a small snack of onion rings to tide me over?”

“Oh-ho!” chortled a voice just over his shoulder. “Trouble deciding what to eat tonight?”

“The Loflin Fairy!” the diner exclaimed. “What are you doing here?”

“Why, I’m here to solve your dinnertime woes with the Old Bridge Burger at Loflin Yard.” With a flourish, the Loflin Fairy snapped his fingers to conjure a plate out of thin air, topped with a hefty burger piled with all sorts of different accouterments. The diner leaned in, eyes wide, as his salivating gaze wandered over the myriad ingredients.

“It’s got a large Angus beef patty, coleslaw, pickles, barbecue sauce … wait, is that pulled pork on top of the burger? And some fried onion rings under the top bun?”

“Indeed it is,” laughed the Loflin Fairy.

“That’s so much food!” But when the diner looked up, the Loflin Fairy had vanished, leaving him alone with the large Old Bridge Burger, a side of fries, and a frozé for good measure. — Samuel X. Cicci
7 W. Carolina Ave.

The Celtic Burger (Photo: Jon W. Sparks)

The Celtic Burger – Celtic Crossing

Celtic Crossing’s old standbys — think shepherd’s pie and bangers and mash — are splendid, but if you’re hankering for a good ol’ hamburger, you’ll get a beefy serving of satisfaction at the classic Irish pub. The Celtic Burger starts with its blended patty that is nicely seasoned and sports a satisfying topper of American cheese. There is also a “secret sauce,” which implies a certain possible leprechaun involvement, but which my taste buds and some discreet inquiries revealed to have elements of ketchup and mayonnaise (probably not from County Mayo, though).

Verdict is: delicious. Rounding it out are pickles, tomatoes, and shaved lettuce. It all sits comfortably between two halves of a potato bun liberally festooned with sesame seeds. The dish comes with thick, savory fries, as one would expect from a Hibernian kitchen. The seeded bun itself is a delight, but, as will happen with robust burgers, might not stay intact through the end. This, however, is why the Irish invented forks, so you can enjoy it to the last morsel. — Jon W. Sparks
903 Cooper St.

World Famous Huey Burger (Photo: Shara Clark)

World Famous Huey Burger Huey’s

When’s the last time you had a World Famous Huey Burger? For me, it’s been a year. Yep, when I signed up to eat this classic for this year’s Burger Week preview, I’d forgotten I volunteered to eat and write about the same burger last year.

Oops. Not to fret; it was a welcome change from my typical steak on a stick or potato soup order (I still got some soup to-go because, duh). And who doesn’t love a time-tested cheeseburger?

A perennial Flyer Best of Memphis “Best Burger” winner, the Huey’s standard features a 6-oz. certified Angus beef patty with all the fixings — mayo, lettuce, tomato, mustard, pickles, onion, and cheddar or Swiss cheese on a toasted sesame seed bun. This is a somewhat hefty burger, so prepare to unhinge the jaw a tad to get a taste of all the goods in one go. The combination of juicy beef (medium-cooked for maximum results) and familiar condiments offers that summer backyard cookout flavor we all crave when a burger hankering hits.

Plan your Huey’s trip wisely. In a noon-hour lunch attempt, the line spilled into the lobby and out the front door at not one but three locations. Which on its own is a testament to the quality and longevity of this Memphis-favorite institution. — Shara Clark
Multiple locations

Southern Smokehouse Burger (Photo: Michael Donahue)

Southern Smokehouse Burger Tops Bar-B-Q

A regular Tops hamburger is now iconic. The Southern Smokehouse Burger is a cheeseburger with grilled onions, thick-cut bacon, and a sweet Southern glaze. That glaze drenching that bacon is over-the-top great. Or make that “over the Tops.”

They added the burger with its “smokey molasses-based glaze” as a limited-time offer for the summer, says Hunter Brown with Tops Operations LLC. He and Tops CEO Randy Hough were at the Tops location at 5144 Poplar Avenue the day I was there. Also at the restaurant were a bunch of guys from Christian Brothers High School. Hough and Brown let the guys sample the Southern Smokehouse Burger.

I asked the students what they thought. They liked the “nice texture,” “sweetness and flavor,” and the “sauce.” Another guy specifically said “glaze,” so he knows his cuisine. Brown says one of the guys told him it was “amazing.”

The Southern Smokehouse Burger is $5.99, which is below the Burger Week price point. “What we’re doing is giving the burger and a side of macaroni and cheese for $6.99,” Brown says. The mac and cheese is another new Tops item. — Michael Donahue
Multiple locations

Sunrise Burger (Photo: Kailynn Johnson)

Sunrise Burger Sunrise Memphis

Working for the Flyer has come with a lot of firsts, and this year’s Burger Week was no different. It was my first time trying an egg on a burger. Not too crazy, I know, but for someone who usually sticks to a regular cheeseburger, with the occasional addition of bacon, it can be intimidating. Alongside a sunny-side-up egg, the Sunrise Burger from Sunrise Memphis comes with a double smash patty, cheddar cheese, bacon jam, and jalapeño cream cheese spread, all served on a brioche bun.

When I told my dad about how nervous I was to try all these elements together, his reaction was, “I’m not going to lie, that sounds good,” and per usual, he was right. The ingredients seemed to work together in a way that “breakfast for dinner” does, and it was a nice mix of sweet and savory. The star of the burger would definitely have to be the bacon jam, as the sweetness doesn’t overpower the other elements, and works really nicely with the jalapeño cream cheese spread. While it’s not usually my first thought to visit a breakfast spot to satiate burger cravings, I think a new 20-minute commute is now in the rotation. — Kailynn Johnson
Multiple locations

Soul Burger (Photo: Earnestine & Hazel’s)

Soul Burger Earnestine & Hazel’s

Earnestine & Hazel’s iconic Soul Burger is a dose of Memphis magic served on a blanket of crinkly deli paper.

The ingredients are simple: a bun, patty, onions, cheese, pickle, and “Soul Sauce.” The bar says that’s “all that’s needed to make our delicious burger.” And it has been for years. But there’s something … else about the Soul Burger. Something transportive. But something also elusive. Just what, exactly, has made this humble burger such an essential stitch in the fabric of Memphis culture? Again, it’s hard to define.

But you feel it when the barkeep slides that little paper basket your way. The warm, little burger is just how you remembered. That first bite hits your taste buds and magically unlocks some core Memphis memory.

And never a bad memory. It’s beers and buddies, and the jukebox, and Mr. Nate upstairs, and the peeling paint, the “no dope smoken” sign, and how “ragged but right” (the bar’s ethos) fits it and the city so well, and somehow you feel at home in it all.

Have you been drinking? Probably! But that’s not what makes a Soul Burger taste so good. And neither, really, is it just pure nostalgia.

It’s the perfect blend of simple, savory ingredients done just right every single time. That’s what has brought generations of Memphians coming back for more soul. — Toby Sells
531 S. Main St.

DaLabSpecial (Photo: Chris McCoy)

DaLabSpecial Dexter’s Lab 901

It’s a hot August night on Shelby Drive. Dexter’s Lab 901 food truck is posted up in a corner of the Walmart Neighborhood Market parking lot. As soon as the blue LEDs light up, cars gather around in a semicircle, waiting for Allante Armstrong’s grease and griddle to get hot enough to cook his signature wings and burgers. “And guess what? I ain’t even posted that I’m open yet!” says Armstrong. “That’s a blessing.”

Armstrong named Dexter’s Lab 901 after his younger brother who passed away from lupus. On the side of the truck, millennial cartoon science hero Dexter shares space with a smiling Dexter Wooten, eternally young.

The burger Armstrong serves up, DaLabSpecial, is a classic griddle burger with the traditional fixings served on two thick, buttered slabs of Texas toast. “I do it just to be different because everybody else put it on regular cheeseburger buns,” says Armstrong.

The burger is thick, but not overwhelming, and super juicy. The buttered buns soak up the ample drippings without falling apart. (Structural integrity is an underrated trait in all sandwiches.) Served half-buried in spicy crinkle fries, it’s ideal street food.

Armstrong gets into a groove, taking orders and juggling burgers on the grill and wings in the fryer. “It’s just something that turned into a hustle. I don’t really know how to cook. If you put me in a real kitchen, I wouldn’t know what to do. But I’m learning,” he says.

The guy next to me in line seems amused when he hears that. “[Armstrong] catered my sister’s wedding,” he says. “You tell ’em he’s good. He’s real good.” — Chris McCoy
6990 E. Shelby Dr.

The Memphis Belle (Photo: Michael Donahue)

The Memphis Belle Belle Tavern

They call them “designer burgers” because of their high quality, but they usually cost more than $10. These are hamburgers made with prime beef trimmings. They’re usually available at high-end restaurants.

Well, for Burger Week, Belle Tavern at 117 Barboro Alley (on the flipside of Union’s 117 Prime) is offering its hamburger, the Memphis Belle. According to the description from the restaurant’s general manager Jake Smith, who designed the burger, the hamburger is a quarter-pound patty of ground beef “from the trimmings of our USDA prime steaks, smoked Gouda, caramelized onion, house-made dill pickles, Prime sauce, on a toasted onion kaiser bun.”

Diners can tell the difference when they take a bite, Smith says. “You get all those textures and flavors working together.” The trimmings come from their whole rib-eye New York strips at 117 Prime. “We take these trimmings and get this grind.” USDA prime, he says, “is all about flavor and tenderness.”

They’re considering permanently adding the Memphis Belle to their menu at Belle Tavern. “We’re looking at this as a test drive. Get some feedback from our guests and see what they think.” But it will cost more. And, man, oh, man, those fries that come with it. “Fries are the secret weapon.” — MD
117 Barboro Alley

The Crazy Coop (Photo: Alex Greene)

Build Your Own Burger The Crazy Coop

The Crazy Coop, which only opened its two locations this February, offers a back-to-basics take on the classic American burger. It’s a no-frills, artisanal approach that focuses on freshness, but one can build on that foundation to create the custom burger of your dreams. That’s because The Crazy Coop is much more than a burger joint. As the name suggests, they specialize in chicken, and especially wings (indeed, they only serve burgers at their Bartlett location). But while all their flavorful options, which include both classic wings seasonings and unique creations like BBQ Bacon Bourbon or Honey Habanero BBQ, originated in their dedication to hot wings, they encourage customers to apply them to burgers as well.

But I wanted to get down to the fundamentals: their basic, unadorned cheeseburger with lettuce, tomato, and onion. The flavor was exquisite. Owner/chef Darius Buckner explained that, having cooked since childhood, then working with a chef in Atlanta for decades, he was committed to seasoning and shaping the patties by hand himself. That attention to detail pays off in the nuanced flavors of their burgers. You could order up a bunch to go for a backyard cookout without ever firing up your grill. — Alex Greene
7199 Stage Rd. (Not available at Ridgeway location)

Categories
Cover Feature Food & Wine Food & Drink News

Merry Burger Week!

Welcome to Memphis Flyer Burger Week!

Your burger tree is up and decorated, hamburger carols have taken over the airwaves, and the children can’t wait to find those condiment packets hidden by the Burger Bunny.

Maybe not, but Burger Week is here and the Flyer staff did some recon to get you ready. We ate burgers from the 10 restaurants offering specials — and some special burgers they’ve cooked up for this most wonderful time of the year. We tried to eat the burger each restaurant will offer. If they didn’t have their special Burger Week burger, we ate something else to at least give you a flavor (if not a taste) of what you can expect.

Merry Burger Week to all!

Loflin Yard

Old Bridge Burger

I’m not usually a fan of the multiple-meat burger. It’s a gambit that seems like gilding the lily. It’s not that I’m a beef purist — far from it! You can make a good burger with anything from bison to ground turkey, and veggie burgers are in their own diverse category. But generally, I think a burger should have a single protein patty which all other ingredients complement.

The Old Bridge Burger made me rethink my priors. It’s a fat Angus beef patty topped with a thin layer of saucy pulled pork, slaw, and a couple of lightly breaded onion rings. You’re not going to be hungry after taking this mouth-stretching monster’s full girth. Instead of effectively adding a second pork patty, the barbecue acts like a condiment — and every right-thinking Memphian knows that barbecue sauce is superior to ketchup. The pickles on the ground floor play well with the vinegar note from the ’cue, while the o-rings up top add a pleasing crunch without overpowering the rest of the stack. As with everything, balance is key. — Chris McCoy

Belly Acres, Hot Pow (Photo: Toby Sells)

Belly Acres

Hot Pow

Belly Acres is a Memphis burger institution. The OG Overton Square location opened back in 2014, if you can believe it. Since then, Belly Acres has become a reliable burger bastion. It lures taste buds back with fresh ingredients and a dazzling array of 15 burgers that feature everything from squash to waffles.

Belly Acres’ Burger Week burger was not ready to launch on a visit last week. So, I hunted for something exotic. I read the word “chorizo,” my mouth literally watered, and my mind was made up.

Belly Acres describes the Hot Pow as a “chorizo and grass-fed beef blended patty topped with pepper jack cheese, fresh spinach, and caramelized onions on a lightly toasted sourdough bun.” Those words on a page, however, do not do the Hot Pow justice.

Mine was melty on the inside with a great crunch from the spinach. The bun cushioned in all the right places. The chorizo is the Hot Pow’s main character, though, and it delivers the spicy, porky, sausage-y goods in a riveting think-outside-the-bun performance. — Toby Sells

Flying Saucer, Royale with Cheese (Photo: Fying Saucer Draught Emporium)

Flying Saucer Draught Emporium

Royale with Cheese

You can go Vincent Vega (the Travolta character of Pulp Fiction) one better — and much closer to home than Paris — by getting your Royale with Cheese at the Flying Saucer Draught Emporium (Peabody Place location only). I had mine at the Cordova location, while sitting bar-side and staring at an impressively complete-looking wall of beers on tap.

The burger with fries is every bit of a meal. On the plate, it looks like what it is — handsomely fat, round, and custom-made — enticing to eye and palate alike and a test case of the old adage of something so fine you want to eat it and have it, too.

The more-than-ample beef patty is cooked to one’s preference, and it shares space with chopped onion, American cheese, jalapeño bacon, mustard, and spiked ketchup. The bun itself, as with any good burger, is a tasty part of the meld. The whole package is bursting with flavor.

The burgers on the menu are in the $12 to $14 range, and, with names like Jeff Buckley, Doc Holliday, and Sputnik Monroe, suggest a wide range of provenances.

And that “Draught Emporium” part of the established’s name is no joke. The variety of libations available is enough to fill a tabloid-sized sheet, front and back, and with fine print. — Jackson Baker

Grill Grabz, Smokehouse Burger (Photo: Bruce VanWyngarden)

Grill Grabz

Smokehouse Burger

Grill Grabz is a food truck operated by LaKendrick and Danielle Chavers that serves the holy pantheon of Memphis food — ribs, catfish, chicken wings — and it all looks amazing on their Facebook page. But my assignment was to try their Smokehouse Burger, and … well, let me see if I can just put this in layman’s terms: DAMN, Y’ALL.

This thing is the Great Pyramid of burgers: two smoky beef patties, crisp white onion slices, a tomato slice, lettuce, two slices of melty cheese, bacon, and your condiments of choice stacked between two halves of a soft sesame seed bun. It will fill both of your hands (and your lap, if you aren’t careful). But don’t spill any or you’ll regret it.

The thing that sets the Grill Grabz burger apart is the smoky flavor that LaKendrick gets from cooking the meat on an actual grill in the truck. It’s gotta be hot work, but creating art is never easy, right? This is a burger that tastes like something your Pop might come up with on his backyard grill — smoky, fresh, outdoorsy, and cooked with love.

The Grill Grabz truck is most often stationed in front of a now-defunct Steak & Shake on Hack’s Cross Road, a block south of Bill Morris Parkway. The truck also makes forays out into the city, so keep an eye on their Facebook page for location updates. Danielle advises customers to call ahead with their orders in order to avoid the line. And that’s good advice, given that Smokehouse Burgers are prepared from scratch. Now, go get you one. — Bruce VanWyngarden

Plant Based Heat, Memphis Bella (Photo: Abigail Morici)

Plant Based Heat

Memphis Bella

I’m a vegetarian. So, luckily, Plant Based Heat has my back with its meatless options.

The other day, I got their Memphis Bella, a portobello mushroom Philly. When I picked up my to-go order from the counter, the server jokingly asked if he could have some since it looked so good. No, sirree. With mushrooms, mild banana peppers, tomato, vegan mozzarella and mayo, and sauteed bell peppers and onions on a hoagie roll, this sandwich was too good to share. Each bite had a pop of flavor that even I could appreciate. I normally don’t like mayo, but the vegan mayo had me second-guessing my aversion. As for my dog Blobby who dutifully sat by my side drooling the whole meal, well, he’s not too happy with me right now, seeing that I didn’t spare him a bite. But, hey, it’s Burger Week, and I’m sure I’ll be back to try their Plant Based Heat Sliders, made specially for the week with two sliders topped with spinach, vegan mayo, pickles, tomato, and grilled onions. And maybe I’ll spare a bite this time, though if it’s anything like the Memphis Bella, I doubt I will. Sorry, Blobby. — Abigail Morici

Pimentos, Dirty Mean & Nasty (Photo: Jon W. Sparks)

Pimentos Burgers, Bar & Grill

Dirty Mean & Nasty

There’s a nice array of burgers on the menu at Pimentos, and one in particular caught the eye (and made the mouth water): the Dirty Mean & Nasty.

We weren’t able to sample the burger the bar and grill will offer for the Flyer’s Burger Week, but this intriguingly named dish promised to offer a foretaste of the delights to come.

The menu says it’s an Angus burger with cheddar cheese, honey pepper bacon, fried jalapeños, and sriracha aioli. The server confided that it was her favorite, so I made the commitment. When it was served, with a no-nonsense steak knife thrust through its heart, I was flummoxed. How do you even approach it to get a bite?

It was big and round and mocking, daring you to try to chomp down. That knife was necessary to gain access, so I sawed at it and released the jalapeños, fun bits with crunch, and it was not too overheated. The burger itself was flavorful, doing exactly what it meant to do in partnership with the cheddar and bacon.

Pimentos offers several other burgers and sliders on the menu with a variety of touches. There’s pimento (natch), avocado, scallions, fried egg, and fried onions.

My only issue with my order was that it was a total lie. There was nothing dirty about it, it presented no meanness, and was entirely un-nasty. Which is what we learned from that famous Aesop’s fable moral that says you can’t tell a burger by its moniker. But you sure can stuff yourself on it. — Jon W. Sparks

Tops Bar-B-Q, Hamburger (Photo: Michael Donahue)

Tops Bar-B-Q

Hamburger

The slogan for Tops is “Memphis’ Best Bar-B-Q Since 1952.” I think another slogan should be, “Memphis’ Best Hamburger Since 1952 — or whenever it was introduced.”

I love the burgers at Tops Bar-B-Q. I always say they taste like the 1950s (when I grew up). There’s something nostalgic about it. But I really had no idea when Tops began selling hamburgers, so I gave Tops vice president, Hunter Brown, a call.

He says, “My dad graduated from Kingsbury High School in 1965. And every day after high school they’d ride their bikes over to Summer and National and get a cheeseburger combo: cheeseburger, a bag of chips, and a Coke for 55 cents.”

I love the diced onion Tops uses instead of a big slab of hard-to-eat onion, and I ask for everything on the sandwich. They get their beef from Charlie’s Meat Market, but Brown says he’s “sworn to secrecy” on the recipe. And it’s fresh — “literally, that cow was alive five days ago,” he says.

As for the dressing, Brown says, “We call it ‘Tops’ way’: mayonnaise, shredded lettuce, a tomato slice, pickle, and diced onions.” — Michael Donahue

Huey’s, World Famous Huey Burger (Photo: Shara Clark)

Huey’s

World Famous Huey Burger

It might be a stretch to say the signature burger served at Huey’s is known and loved across the globe — it’s meat and bread, not Beyoncé — but there’s a reason why it’s been voted “Best Burger” by Flyer readers in our Best of Memphis poll since, like, ever.

Despite their many accolades, I’ve heard people throw shade at Huey’s burgers — because they’re “not the same as they used to be,” or something. I’d like to address this by asking, “When’s the last time you had one?” Admittedly, for me, it had been a while. But the World Famous Huey Burger did not disappoint. It’s exactly what you look for in a tried-and-true burger: a hefty hunk of beef, your choice of cheddar or Swiss cheese, and as many of the fixings as you’d like — mayo, lettuce, tomato, mustard, pickle, onion — on a buttered, toasted sesame seed bun.

Upon first sight, the question “How wide can I open my mouth?” arises. The whole shebang requires some positioning to bite into. The fatty juice and gooey cheese drip into a pool in the paper-lined basket below as you work your way through, at the same time turning the bun into a slip and slide for its contents. But you gotta get messy for a good burger. This is America, and we’re eating a world-famous burger here, guys. Seriously, it was really good. The meat was well-seasoned, those big-ass steak fries killed it, per usual, and it paired well with a pint of Memphis Made Summer Frills (a limited-edition golden ale only available on draft at Huey’s locations). Get you some! — Shara Clark

Farm Burger, The Peach Burger (Photo: Alex Greene)

Farm Burger

The Peach Burger

The Peach Burger, the special concoction from Farm Burger for Burger Week, appeals to your eyes as well as your taste buds. The glistening fruit, the roasted red serrano peppers, and the luscious spicy pimento cheese draws you in, and the first bite confirms that its blend of savory, spicy, and sweet is a classic combination. Farm Burger manager Dan Tain says, “We used to do a peach burger with Jones Orchard peaches, as well as local feta cheese and some arugula on it, so we were considering going back to that, but then we put a different spin on it.” Keeping the Jones Orchard peaches front and center, they then proceeded to spice things up. And the toasted potato bun lends the flavor that much more complex.

“We have a new culinary director at Farm Burger,” says Tain. “Drew Van Leuvan just came to us three months ago. And chef Drew came up with the idea of using local peaches with spicy pimento cheese and roasted serrano peppers. It’s nice and bright and colorful. I think it’s a great deal with the grass-fed beef. People are excited to try it. It’s seasonal, and that’s what Farm Burger’s about.” — Alex Greene

Tenero Cafe, the Butcher’s Burger (Photo: Samuel X. Cicci)

Tenero Cafe & Butcher

The Butcher’s Burger

It caught me a bit by surprise when I first checked out Tenero Cafe & Butcher on Mendenhall. The new cafe/restaurant/bar/butcher shop was a chic-looking upgrade on the spot’s former iteration, Southall Café. And watching employees roll out some fine-looking ground beef in the butcher section had me salivating at the prospect of their burger.

Tenero’s featured item for Burger Week is the Butcher’s Burger. And sure enough, diners get freshly ground beef straight from the butcher shop. But we’re not just talking about a small bit of beef. This baby boasts some double-patty action. So, don’t walk in if you’re just a little hungry. The generous patties are sandwiched between a soft brioche bun (shout-out to the bottom bun for not getting soggy) and dressed with American cheese, arugula, caramelized onions, and pickles. The menu also made mention of a chef’s secret sauce, but I’ll admit I was unable to detect what kind of flavors that was putting down.

What sets the Butcher’s Burger apart is the quality of the beef, prepped fresh in-house. There’s no toughness to the patties, no chewy exterior to power through. Overall, it’s simply an approachable, traditional American burger that forgoes any zany bells and whistles in favor of simplicity. — Samuel X. Cicci

Categories
Cover Feature Food & Drink News

Burger Bonanza: Celebrating Burger Week with 10 Bluff City Burgers

Everybody loves Burger Week. At least, everyone on the Flyer editorial team certainly seems downright hungry to devour a burger (and write about the experience) for this annual cover story.

And why shouldn’t they be? Hamburgers are the black T-shirt of American cuisine — they go with almost everything. Whatever your palate, you can dress them up or down to your taste, even eschewing the meat if that’s what floats your burger boat (and as 20 percent of this story’s samplings do). This roundup of 10 Bluff City burgers runs the gamut, from the classic to the most gourmet of garnishes.

Whet your appetite with these helpings of hamburger, and then see page 17 for a full list of the Burger Week specials available around town. In the meantime, if, like Frank Zappa and The Mothers of Invention, you find yourself “Cruisin’ for Burgers,” we hope this list will be your burgerific guide.

The Bishop Burger at Bishop
Bishop, inside Central Station Hotel at 545 South Main, feels both familiar and otherworldly: You’re in the heart of historic Memphis, but with a French twist. A light Eurodisco take on Françoise Hardy’s “Le Temps De L’Amour” echoes through the room when the burger enters, buttered brioche buns gleaming, a steak knife plunged into the center, and all else is forgotten. Much care has gone into this creation, which some food-savvy friends have dubbed the best burger in town.

The double patties are made with beef from Evans Farms, blended with filet and short rib trimmings, topped with cheddar cheese and “all natural, humane” bacon from Niman Ranch. And then there are the enhancements: a B1 sauce, “a play on A1 sauce,” essentially a red wine and butter demi-glace incorporating more bits of filet, and a tomato aioli. The latter is made with tomatoes fermented for several days in the Bishop kitchen, adding a subtle tartness to the profile.

If you opt for pommes frites, try them with the garlic and dijon aioli, which takes the French penchant for mayonnaise with fries and throws a mustardy bite into the proceedings. Merveilleuse! — Alex Greene

Bishop, 545 S. Main Street #111

Steakhouse Burger at RP Tracks (Photo: Shara Clark)

Steakhouse Burger at RP Tracks
“Proud loser of the Best Burger in Memphis award for what, 30 years now?” That’s the text on an advertisement RP Tracks ran in this publication a few months back, poking fun at the fact that they’ve never made it to the top in the Flyer’s Best of Memphis “Best Burger” category. That may well be true, but their burgers are the business.

The standard RP Burger is a good go-to if you’re looking for a classic (8-oz. Angus patty and your choice of cheese, alongside a setup of lettuce, tomato, onion, and pickles), but don’t stop there. The bacon cheddar and jalapeño burgers are both solid choices, but — being a fungi fanatic — I opt for the steakhouse. A thick, juicy beef patty is topped with grilled red onions and mushrooms, covered with melted Gouda shreds, and sandwiched in a potato bun. You can add the fixings to it, if you’d like, but with or without the extras, you’re gonna need to take a tip from Guy Fieri and do “the Hunch” — cradle it from underneath to hold it all together, tilt your head to the side, and open wide to get all that goodness in one bite. Any of Tracks’ burgers can be made with a Beyond Burger veggie patty, and they’re served with hand-cut fries. I go for the tots because that’s how I roll. — Shara Clark

RP Tracks, 3547 Walker Avenue

The Fye Junt at Plant Based Heat (Photo: Samuel X. Cicci)

The Fye Junt at Plant Based Heat
It’s fire, fire, everywhere with one of Plant Based Heat’s signature burgers. The new vegan restaurant by Ralph Johnson brings in all the traditional flavors of Southern cooking, just without the meat. For burger time, I emerged slightly singed, but none the worse for wear, after diving into the Fye Junt burger.

The Beyond Meat patty is simply the canvas for the firestorm to come. Jalapeño peppers? Check. Vegan pepper jack cheese and spicy mayo? Absolutely. But instead of a simply overwhelming heat wave, PBH’s secret sauce, coupled with Memphis Sweet Heat BBQ sauce, brings the spice back down to a manageable level just before things get out of hand. For good measure, toss in fresh spinach, tomato, and caramelized onions.

The Fye Junt fresh off the grill sure feels like messy and greasy goodness, with a texture akin to biting into a regular ol’ beef patty. Even if you’re a devout carnivore, like me, the Fye Junt will satisfy, I promise. Just maybe make sure there’s a glass of water nearby. For it’s all in the name: The Fye Junt truly brings plant-based heat. — Samuel X. Cicci

Plant Based Heat, 669 S. Highland Street

Ostrich Burger at Off the Hoof (Photo: Julie Ray)

Ostrich Burger at Off the Hoof
I’d heard about two great places for a burger in Arlington — Off the Hoof and Slingshot Charlie’s. I planned to try both and the best burger would get a write-up. By default Off the Hoof won the competition. Slingshot Charlie’s was shuttered for the week so that the owner and staff could celebrate the Fourth of July. Don’t fret, Charlie should be slinging shots by the time you read this.

At Off the Hoof, I had planned to have the $5 house burger. But then I saw the “Big Game” menu. I had to go there. It boasted buffalo, elk, wild boar, ostrich, and venison burgers. I was informed that fresh ostrich meat was shipped in on Tuesdays and Fridays. This tasty trek was on a Friday. Score.

I made a mistake. It tasted like beef. I expected more. There were some interesting sides ordered — Frito Pie (Fritos corn chips, chili, and cheese) and Freta Fries (hand-cut battered fries with feta cheese and buffalo sauce).

I wish I’d tried the $5 burger. The place was full of regulars. You don’t get regulars with a $19 ostrich burger that tastes like beef. Google informed me that ostrich was a lot healthier than beef and an ostrich looks like Big Bird.

My apologies to Sesame Street, but I took that as a win. — Julie Ray

Off the Hoof, 12013 US-70, Arlington, Tennessee

Mr. Good Burger at Roxie’s Grocery (Photo: Chris McCoy)

Mr. Good Burger at Roxie’s Grocery
“I hope you don’t have any work to do this afternoon.”

I’m standing next to Daris Leatherwood, chef and owner of the Sum Light Bistro food truck. We’re in line at Roxie’s Grocery, waiting for our orders. The cooks are presiding over a full griddle. It’s lunchtime, and we’re behind a big order destined for workers at nearby St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital. Roxie’s is an Uptown landmark, the kind of place where you take time to talk to your neighbors. Leatherwood’s been telling me about launching his food truck when he asks what I ordered. I’m getting the Mr. Good Burger, the H-bomb of the Bluff City burger scene. I tell him I’ve got to write about it once I’ve eaten it. “You’re gonna have to take a nap,” he says.

The Mr. Good Burger comes wrapped in a foil package that’s bigger than both my fists — and I’m a bass player with long fingers. It’s a double bacon cheeseburger with all the trimmings, but that generic description doesn’t convey the sheer magnitude of this classic. The four strips of super-thick bacon are bent double and inserted between the patties. I have to unhinge my jaw to take the first bite and blast off to carnivore heaven. They call it “Mr. Good Burger” for a reason. This is the Platonic ideal of the two-patty griddle burger, a mixed-meat masterpiece.

Now I’ve got to lay down. The things I do for journalism … — Chris McCoy

Roxie’s Grocery, 520 N. 3rd Street

The Bshop Wagyu Burger at the Beauty Shop (Photo: Jon W. sparks)

The Bshop Wagyu Burger at the Beauty Shop

My burger of choice, the Bshop Wagyu Burger at the Beauty Shop, is daunting, understandably pricey, and a thing of wonder. The $12 delight comes with a tasty special sauce, lettuce, tomato, cheese, pickles, and onions. I ordered bacon, avocado, and mushrooms on top of that (75 cents each) because I could. Cheeses available are American (my choice), cheddar, pimento cheese, provolone, and gruyère. And you can get an egg in the mix for another buck.

Once you’ve outfitted it, you’ll find it difficult to deploy in the traditional way. There is a top and bottom torta roll, but everything in the middle makes it difficult to chomp without dislocating a jaw, so you may want to have utensils at the ready. Still, going at the mushrooms with fingers or the avocado with a fork doesn’t diminish the pleasure in the slightest. The beef is sublime and the veggies are yummy. It is fairly typical of what you get at the Beauty Shop — or any of Karen Carrier’s eateries — in bringing forth the freshest ingredients and splendidly prepared dishes. — Jon W. Sparks

The Beauty Shop, 966 S. Cooper Street

Firecracker Burger at Clancy’s Cafe (Photo: Michael Donahue)

Firecracker Burger at Clancy’s Cafe

I can’t resist saying the Firecracker Burger at Clancy’s Cafe bursts with flavor. But it really does. It’s delicious.

But I won’t say “explode” because it’s not one of those so-hot-it’s-inedible food items.

“It is two 8-ounce patties, ground beef, that’s stuffed with our homemade pimento cheese and pickled jalapeños,” says Tyler Clancy, owner of the Red Banks, Mississippi restaurant.

“And then we fry the burger, of course. It’s on a toasted sourdough bun with our hand-breaded onion rings. The onion rings are on the burger. And then we do our in-house queso cheese dip on all of it.”

The burger is just one of those things that was so good it stayed around. “This was like a Fourth of July special probably five, six years ago. It had great success. People really liked it. It eventually made its way on the menu.”

And, again, this isn’t some fiery burger that will make you run for water. “I would just describe it as more of a mild to medium heat. The jalapeños aren’t very hot. So it’s more of a spiciness than it is a real tongue-burner.” — Michael Donahue

Clancy’s Cafe, Hwy. 178 West, Red Banks, Mississippi

Chipotle Black Bean Burger at Evelyn & Olive (Photo: Abigail Morici)

Chipotle Black Bean Burger at Evelyn & Olive
As a Catholic, I’ve made my fair share of mandatory confessions, but this is, perhaps, my most embarrassing one yet: I tried my first burger in 2019, not as a curious toddler but as a semi-functioning 20-year-old picky-eater. It was a veggie burger on a certain local college campus, where my options were limited, my standards sinking, my expectations low, and, man, that burger was sinfully bad. Thankfully, I had the wherewithal not to give up just yet on expanding my palate, and I tried the Chipotle Black Bean Burger at Evelyn & Olive. And hallelujah, what a delight!

The ciabatta bun is lightly toasted, and the black bean patty, topped with tomato and lettuce, has just the right amount of crisp. But the mango-barbecue sauce is the real star of the show with a smoky but sweet flavor. Plus, the dish came with a side, so I also devoured some fried plantains, which mmmm, I could snack on all day and night and the next morning, too. Overall, the black bean burger is pretty simple compared to the other Jamaican and Southern dishes on the menu, but Evelyn & Olive can never disappoint. — Abigail Morici

Evelyn & Olive, 630 Madison Avenue

No.1 Farm Burger at Farm Burger (Photo: Courtesy Farm Burger)

No. 1 Farm Burger at Farm Burger
The eponymous sandwich at Farm Burger in Crosstown Concourse is exactly what you’d want something called a “farm burger” to be — fat, juicy, but tight enough in its bun to be easily managed by hand. Cooked to your order (I like mine medium well), the patty I had was topped with cheddar and a generous layer of caramelized onions and marinated in the establishment’s “f.b. sauce” (mayonnaise, garlic, and a touch of chili were some of the recognizable components). The bun encasing all these goodies was an integral part of the package, as well, its breaded halves neither melted on nor floppily separate.

The burger, which is served in a basket, can be further customized more or less to the customer’s taste, and a variety of sides is available. I was happy enough with the basic Farm Burger as normally prepared, but I was curious enough about what was billed as “pimento cheese fries” to give that menu item a try. It turned out to be a delectable (and generously proportioned) selection of french fries smothered in melted pimento cheese and crowned with sliced jalapeños. Forks are available. You can eat as many of the peppers — or as few — as you choose. It may depend on what your drink choice is; mine was a glass of a refreshingly light pilsner beer. Standard teas and soft drinks can be had as well. — Jackson Baker

Farm Burger, 1350 Concourse Avenue #175

Assassin Burger at Wally Hatchet’s (Photo: Toby Sells)

Assassin Burger at Wally Hatchet’s
Drive east past the Malco Summer Drive-In, cross the Wolf River, pass Golf and Games, and drive past the Shoney’s graveyard of Summer and Sycamore View. Find self-control enough to pass Elena’s Taco Shop, cross Elmore Road, and you’ll find Wally Hatchet’s, nestled in a strip mall with a how-can-this-still-be-Memphis address.

The lunch-rush crowd was finishing up as I entered. Customer graffiti covered the walls in between colorful prints of Hank Jr., Merle Haggard, and the like. The aesthetic was NASCAR-dad man-cave with a collage of art (like a painted board that reads “rock me baby”), a dented piece of a race car, a giant Harley-Davidson sign, and a toilet-roll holder shaped like a revolver. One wall was dedicated to military veterans.

Given the drive, I wanted the wildest burger Wally Hatchet’s had to offer. The Assassin Burger was tasty but mild, given an ingredient list that included pepper jack cheese, grilled jalapeños, and pepper sauce that tasted an awful lot like A1.

Wally Hatchet’s won’t become my next burger obsession. But, if you’re out that way, give it a try. — Toby Sells

Wally Hatchet’s, 6439 Summer Avenue