Tag: Cafe 1912

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Cheers to Cafe 1912

Keith Riley with fried oysters (Photo: Michael Donahue)

Cafe 1912 is celebrating its 21st anniversary with specials for the next couple of weeks.

This week’s menu will include the restaurant’s signature Mardi Gras item: fried oysters with remoulade sauce.

Beef bourguignon with buttered noodles also will be featured. “Beef bourguignon was on the very first menu we did at La Tourelle,” says Martha Hays, who, along with her husband, Glenn, owns Cafe 1912 at 243 Cooper Street.

She and her husband also owned the now-closed La Tourelle, which they opened in 1977 on Monroe Avenue just off Overton Square. The restaurant, named for the tower, or turret, on top, was more of a fine dining/white tablecloth restaurant with its prix fixe menu.

Glenn also wanted a restaurant that was “more eclectic” and “would appeal to a broader range of folks,” Martha says. Cafe 1912 was named after the year the building housing the restaurant was constructed. “The facade has ‘1912’ on it.”

They opened La Tourelle because Glenn, who worked in the athletic department at the University of Memphis, loved to eat, loved to go to France, and loved to read cookbooks. He wanted a restaurant that served the type of French dishes he enjoyed, says Martha, who was teaching French and English at Lincoln Junior High School at the time.

Glenn was the chef when La Tourelle opened. “He came in every day and cooked. I made bread and desserts at home. Glenn made stew-type things: beef bourguignon, blanquette de veau, and cassoulet. All one pot. That’s what we did for the first six weeks. Then reality hit. Summer was ending and we both had to go back to our jobs.”

They began hiring chefs, including Erling Jensen, who worked at the restaurant for seven and a half years. Jensen answered an ad, which Glenn put in The New York Times when he was looking for a chef. Jensen arrived three weeks later and moved into the apartment above La Tourelle. He now owns Erling Jensen: The Restaurant.

Glenn opened Cafe 1912 after discovering the space next to Barksdale Restaurant, where he often ate, was for lease.

Martha remembers when Glenn told her he signed the lease to open another restaurant. “My reaction this time was, ‘Oh, I think that’s a good idea.’ Which is totally different from my reaction when he told me about La Tourelle. I was completely scared. You have to remember how young we were. Our oldest was 18 months old. And I was teaching school. He cashed in a life insurance policy to get the money for him and his partner to start renovating.”

They’ve “always had a burger on the menu” at Cafe 1912, but they also serve fine dining items, Martha says. The fare initially was “French inspired. But that’s changed somewhat over the years as people got more into different kinds of spices and things like that.”

Cafe 1912 and La Tourelle “co-existed for five years,” Martha says. La Tourelle closed “because we were having trouble finding a qualified person to put in the kitchen.”

And there was “a lot more competition” from new fine dining restaurants.

“One brunch, Kelly English came in with his family. And Glenn happened to be here and was talking to him. He said, ‘Do you know anybody who wants to buy a restaurant?’ And Kelly said, ‘I do.’ And that’s exactly what happened. We sold it in November 2007, and Iris opened about six months after that.”

Their seafood crepe is one of their longest-running menu items. “It has shrimp and bay scallops and béchamel sauce wrapped up in the crepe. It’s served hot.”

Keith Riley, Cafe 1912’s executive chef since 2009, added “pan-seared grouper with roasted red pepper, asparagus, and risotto with sun-dried tomato beurre blanc.”

Riley substitutes other fish, including corvina or scallops, when grouper isn’t available.

Cafe 1912 expanded in 2007 when the bay next door went up for lease. “We put in the bar. And that’s really pretty much what changed our vibe a bit.”

Memphis Flyer senior editor Bruce VanWyngarden “referred to us once as ‘The Cheers of Midtown.’ A lot of our crowd is older and they’re Midtown. They come in here and I can’t tell you how often everybody knows everybody.”

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Cover Feature News

The Flyer staff surveys some of Memphis’ steamiest bowls of soup.

Let us now praise famous soups. The hearty potatoes, the classic tomatoes (perfect with grilled cheese), even the Hungry Man soup with those little burgers (remember them?). A good soup can do so many things. It can slake hunger and chase off a chill. Grandma’s chicken soup reportedly can cure your cold.

So what is Memphis ladling out? We took to social media and asked for suggestions. What follows is our report. Ladies and gentlemen, soup’s on!

Ramen at Crazy Noodle

Ramen at Crazy Noodle

I can’t speak to the relative sanity of the noodles, but Crazy Noodle, the little Korean diner next to the Kwik Chek on Madison, is almost always crazy busy. It’s a cozy establishment, made more so when the few tables are all full. Being something of a regular at the Noodle, I knew what to expect: There are usually only two cooks and one server working (that’s really all space allows for), and so my friend and I settled in for a wait.

There are other dishes on the menu, but we were there for the ramen. My friend ordered the vegetable Mandu Ramen ($8.99), and I got the Chicken Ramen ($8.99). (I had been eyeing the mandu, but she beat me to it.) The Mandu Ramen is made with carrots, onions, green onions, shiitake mushrooms, cabbage, zucchini, turnip kimchi, and mandu (Korean dumplings), which can be had with vegetable or beef filling. I’ve eaten both, and they’re delicious whether served herbivore- or carnivore-style.

The Chicken Ramen includes many of the same ingredients, with the obvious addition of chicken instead of mandu, and with bean sprouts taking the place of the shiitake mushrooms. While the mandu is a little on the mild side, the Chicken Ramen is served in a spicy broth that fogged up my glasses and pairs well, to my tastes, with the onions and turnip kimchi. The cooks at Crazy Noodle don’t skimp on the vegetables, so eating their ramen feels a little like eating a veggie-noodle salad with a spicy broth, making it a great choice for a cold night. My advice? Order a local beer to smooth out the spice, and go with someone whose company you enjoy. These noodles are worth the wait.

— Jesse Davis

The Crazy Noodle, 2015 Madison
(272-0928)

Justin Fox Burks

Tuscan White Bead & Kale at Ciao Bella

Tuscan White Bean & Kale at
Ciao Bella

My friend Victoria turned me on to the White Bean & Kale soup at Ciao Bella. She organizes a yearly get-together at the restaurant that included our much-missed colleague Leonard Gill.

So for me, the soup translates into something dear: good gossip, better friends, and the fondest memories.

And the soup is pretty darn good, too. Delicious, in fact. It’s the last point that Blandy Lawrence will defend to the death. She is a super-fan of the Tuscan white bean & kale. Words like “perfect” and “fantastic” bounce among other superlatives. “I’ve been eating it for a long time,” she says.

Lawrence says she’s the sort who orders the same dish at a restaurant every time she visits. She goes to Ciao Bella about every other week. She orders the soup every time, with a chopped salad topped with salmon. (Soup and salad runs $8 to $10 at lunch.)

The soup is tender white beans with kale and a scattering of peppers, served in a light broth. It serves as a light meal that fills you but doesn’t run you over like a Mack truck. It’s this last fact that Lawrence particularly appreciates about the dish.

“The reason I like it is because it’s light, tasty, and I feel like it’s healthy,” she says.

— Susan Ellis

Ciao Bella, 565 Erin (205-2500), ciaobellamemphis.com

Justin Fox Burks

Potato at Huey’s

Potato at Blind Bear and Huey’s

The homely potato is the working stiff of foodstuffs, basic and dependable, as strange a fit to the idea of cuisine as a pea coat, say, is to that of couture. Yet it is a core item in most of the Western world’s table fare, a root vegetable in every sense of the term, and is uncommonly satisfying as a source of energy, especially in the cold weather months that are now upon us, when few edibles are as quick a fix — especially in the hearty and instantly satisfying form of potato soup.

The potato soup dishes of two local sources — the well-established Huey’s franchises and the faux-speakeasy bistro Blind Bear Downtown — are superficially similar, consisting of a base of the soft starchy stuff, interestingly seasoned and topped by shredded or grated cheese, bacon bits, and chopped scallions and other green veggies. Served warm, of course. (The cool version, vichyssoise, is available here and there, too, but that’s another story.)

The potato soup at Huey’s, priced at $3.45, has a nice buttery consistency just the right fluid distance from mashed-potato style and possesses a discernible dash of chicken broth, along with a hint of celery and onion. The version at Blind Bear, available in a 2-out-of-3-option lunch special for $6, has a somewhat thinner base, but is chunkier, floating bits of potato and dollops of sour cream, along with teasy ingredients from the spice and vegetable kingdoms. (“Our secrets,” a server explains.)

Both these varieties have their secrets and are worth a try, and both will satisfy the soul and, as they say, warm the cockles. (And, no, genuine cockles of the marine variety are not ingredients in either soup variety, but that’s an idea for somebody to follow up with.)

— Jackson Baker

Huey’s, hueyburger.com

Blind Bear, 119 S. Main (417-8435), blindbearmemphis.com

Stone Soup at Stone Soup

Stone Soup at Stone Soup

If you name a dish after a globally beloved folk tale, it had better be good, right? If you then name your restaurant after that dish, it had be better be good, right? So, the Stone Soup at Stone Soup had better be good, right?

(Think about that for a second: a restaurant named for a story named for a dish in that story. Whoa. Meta.)

The Cooper-Young restaurant’s eponymous Stone Soup might as well be the restaurant in a bowl. They — the restaurant and the dish — are cozy, comforting, and humbly high-quality.

How can high-quality be humble? Eschewing the esoteric vernacular of many a trendy menu, Stone Soup says the smoked sausage in its Stone Soup is “country pleasin’.”

And it is, too, by god.

I wasn’t quite sure what I’d get when I ordered a bowl of Stone Soup last week. The menu said it had local ground beef, that “country pleasin'” sausage, and was topped with sour cream and black olives.

It arrived steaming, heaped high in a generous bowl that said, “son, this soup is a meal.” Meatballs swam in a tomato base, joining that country pleasin’ sausage, of course, tomatoes, carrots, peppers, red kidney beans, and onions.

After I took some bad photographs at the table (yep, being “that” guy — but it was for work!), I mixed in the sour cream and olives. I took a bite and was transported.

John Denver and I were huddled around the fireplace, sipping hot chocolate under old, soft quilts while snow gently blanketed the West Virginia hills outside the cabin John built with his own two hands. In short, Stone Soup’s Stone Soup is everything that’s right with winter.

Stone Soup, Stone Soup, $5.89 per cup, $8.89 per bowl. — Toby Sells

Stone Soup, 993 S. Cooper (922-5314), stonesoupcafememphis.com

Moroccan Soup at Casablanca

Moroccan Soup at Casablanca

On the appetizer menu — before you get to the shawarma, falafel, and kebab sandwiches and entrees that represent Casablanca’s staples — are a pair of soups that diners swear by. The Moroccan soup is a tomato-based concoction that is both hearty and vegetarian. Chickpeas and black lentils provide protein. Light pasta floats in the broth to provide a little added heft and a carbohydrate boost. Celery, onions, cilantro, and some secret spices round out the flavor profile. It’s a comforting, healthy soup for a chilly day.

“It’s from Morocco, because my wife is from Casablanca,” says Saed, the restaurant’s co-owner, who says the name of the establishment also comes from her fabled hometown.

The simpler lentil soup, which combine the nutritious legumes with carrots, onions, and garlic, is another traditional Middle Eastern dish with a big following among Casablanca regulars.

Preparing the soups is the first priority for the staff. “To cook this every morning is three hours” Saed says. “People like it a lot. We make a big pot every morning. Especially now, in the winter when it is cold.”

— Chris McCoy

Casablanca, casablancamemphis.com

French Onion at Cafe 1912

French Onion Soup at Cafe 1912

Glenn and Martha Hayes opened the cozy Midtown bistro Cafe 1912 in 2002. From its very beginning, one of the restaurant’s staples has been its signature French onion soup, and there are few more comforting dishes in town on a chilly night. It’s a rich and savory delight.

Glenn Hayes says their version takes a while to make. “You need to cook very thinly sliced onions in butter and oil, until they’re nice and brown, being careful not to burn them. It’s constant stirring for up to an hour. From there, it’s a matter of adding a high-quality stock. We use chicken stock, mostly, though some people use beef stock.”

Hayes then adds a sweet Port wine, salt and pepper, and a little thyme, and lets it simmer “for a long time.” Hayes says he can’t tell us the exact ingredient proportions because it’s a “matter of taste.”

“Of course, the topping is what makes it classic French onion soup,” he says. “You add croutons of toasted bread and top with melted gruyere cheese. Then use your spoon to drown them in the soup and you’re in business.

“We’ve sold a few bowls of it in 16 years,” he adds. — Bruce VanWyngarden

Cafe 1912, 243 S. Cooper (722-2700), cafe1912.com

She Crab at Southern Social

She Crab at Southern Social

The “she” in the she-crab soup at Southern Social should stand for “sherry.” That ingredient is outstanding in the Germantown restaurant’s popular soup.

The soup also includes celery, onion, garlic, butter, tabasco, flour, crab stock, heavy cream, crab roe, salt, and white pepper.

After my soup was served to me the other night at the bar, I heard someone say, “Look what you started.”

Julie Beda and Sharon Donovan, who were sitting near me, suddenly had cups of the soup in front of them. “It looked so good,” Beda said.

I asked owner Russ Graham how they came up with their she-soup, which is not the same she-crab soup recipe served at his other restaurant, Flight Restaurant and Wine Bar. He says he and co-owner Tom Powers spent some time in Charleston, South Carolina. “We really enjoyed talking about the differences between she crab soups at restaurants,” Graham says.

They finally decided on a recipe “that worked for us. We had a basic recipe and tweaked it.”

That was two years ago last November. “I think it was embraced fairly quickly,” he says.

Their executive chef, Mario Torres “believes in the soup,” he says. That’s “what makes the soup great.”

Torres, who did the tweaking, says, “The secret of the flavor is from the stock.”

He makes the stock in the “old French cuisine” style. They reduce the stock to 50 percent. “It concentrates the flavor of the crab.”

And, he says, “We reduce the sherry wine to opaque. And that enhances the flavor of the sherry as well.”

Torres isn’t the only one who believes in the soup. Managing partner Joe Fain is also a big fan. “I’ve had a cup every day since we’ve opened,” he says.

— Michael Donahue

Southern Social, 2285 S. Germantown Road (754-5555), southernsocial.com

Spicy Tomato at La Baguette

Spicy Tomato at La Baguette

Even before the first spoonful is sipped, the taste buds know something great lies ahead, as a tomato-y aroma arises from the bowl and fills the nose. Rich in color and in taste, La Baguette’s Spicy Tomato Soup is the right combination of warm zest and spice — perfect for any cold day.

The soup is served with a melted dollop of Swiss-American cheese on top and because no bowl of soup is complete without bread, slices of freshly baked French bread on the side. Both work in tandem to cool the spices of the dish.

Not like your everyday tomato soup, La Baguette’s version is more like the homemade kind your mom used to make. It’s full of Italian seasonings with hints of basil and oregano in every bite. Tangy sweetness from the tomatoes perfectly balances with the savory spices.

Gene Amagliani, owner of La Baguette, says the tomato soup is a fan favorite that “people often rave about.” It’s all in the secret recipe, Amagliani says.

It cooks for hours, Amagliani says, allowing the company’s “secret spices that make the soup so delicious” to kick in.

“We pride ourselves on our spicy tomato soup,” Amagliani says. “I can’t reveal much, but I’ll tell you it has tomato and basil in it. It’s been the same secret recipe since 1976, and it works.”

La Baguette’s tomato soup is so good, it’s one of the cafe’s two soups that’s offered every day.

— Maya Smith

La Baguette, 3088 Poplar (458-0900), labaguettememphis.com

Tom Kai at Asian Eatery

Tom Kha Kai at Asian Eatery

At the Asian Eatery, less than a tenner will get you a generous bowl of Tom Kha Kai. This takes the Thai classic in a novel, light direction. Often called Tom Kha Gai, the usual recipe for this soup involves coconut milk and chicken cooked with mushrooms, onions, scallions, bell peppers, chili, lime leaves, lemongrass, and galangal root. That last ingredient is key; that’s the kha in the soup’s name. Of course, one doesn’t eat the galangal if there’s a bit in your bowl. Instead, it permeates the broth. Naturally, the whole thing’s garnished with fresh bean sprouts and cilantro.

But at the Asian Eatery, one final ingredient — tomato — sets this version apart. The subtle addition of the nightshade adds a bit of edge to the coconut milk’s creaminess. If you find Tom Kha Gai to be the ultimate Southeast Asian comfort food, and many do, this trace of tomato will make it even more homey and familiar to you. It certainly doesn’t try to be a creamy tomato soup. Rather, by merely hinting at that, a new dimension to the classic dish opens up, as the fragrant, tart-yet-sweet tomato brightens the more conventional richness of the coconut milk.

And, while many Thai restaurants serve the soup over rice, here it’s served over rice noodles. Beyond that, the chefs at Asian Eatery no doubt have their own secret ratios of ingredients and seasonings. Whatever they may be, it’s all tied together in a perfect blend of cold weather comfort and healthfulness. — Alex Greene

Asian Eatery, 2072 West St., Germantown, (737-3988),
asianeatery.net

Chicken & Chipotle at Maciel’s

Chicken & Chipotle at Maciel’s

Across cultures, whether you grew up Jewish, Thai, Greek, or Cajun, simple, broth-based chicken soups are revered for their ability to heal, nourish, and delight the senses. Few are simpler or more satisfying than the chicken and chipotle soup served at Maciel’s Tacos & Tortas, a locally owned Mexican food chain with locations Downtown and near the U of M. It’s light enough to eat in the summertime, but this soup’s a core-warming, mouth-tingling comfort when temperatures plunge and the world turns icy and gray.

Maciel’s chicken soup is similar to a standard tortilla soup, but with a tangy, smokey twist. It starts with a rich chicken broth lightly sweetened and thickened by corn masa from fried tortilla strips and stained dark orange by the presence of an adobo-packed chipotle or two. Rice adds heartiness, and the chicken chunks are small and plentiful.

There was a time when smoked jalapeño peppers — chipotles — were a curious and exotic delicacy appearing only on the most adventurous menus. Today, they make regular appearances at fast food restaurants, including one named for the chili. They’re so normalized it’s easy to forget just what a flavor star they can be if you give them a little room to shine. Just a small amount brings heat, smoke, color, and an almost citrusy zip. Maciel’s chicken soup is a perfectly balanced example: picant but never aggressively so.

There are many tasty tortilla soups in town. At Maciel’s, the addition of chipotles puts it in a league of its own. Flues? Blues? It may not cure what ails you, but it’s a good start. — Chris Davis

Maciel’s Tortas & Tacos, 45 S. Main, (526-0037), macielsdowntown.com

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Mac Edwards is new head of Caritas Village.

CREDIT: Photographs by Justin Fox Burks

It’s a gathering place, a safe place,” says Mac Edwards of Caritas Village. Edwards, who was the driving force behind the restaurants McEwen’s, The Farmer, and Brooks Pharm2Fork, recently took over as executive director of Caritas Village from its founder Onie Johns.

Johns created the community center under the ethos of “love for all people.” Edwards fully buys into the idea. “It was the chance to do something good, something different,” Edwards says of taking the gig.

Like Johns, Edwards lives in the neighborhood, in a blue duplex right across the street from the center. It was part of his compensation package, says Edwards.

Photographs by Justin Fox Burks

Mac Edwards does good at Caritas Village.

As for the restaurant, Edwards says to expect a lot of the old favorites — the sloppy joes, the patty melt — as well as some dishes borrowed from the Farmer.

On a recent afternoon, the special was chicken thighs and legs with mashed potatoes and green beans (plus dessert!). Sides included braised greens and sauteed carrots, zucchini, and yellow squash.

Prices top out at $8, and guests can always pay it forward by adding an extra buck or two to cover the next fellow.

There are grilled cheese sandwiches and a “one story” club, quesadillas, chicken soup, and meat and two plates. More favorites on the menu are the Cobb salad and the veggie burger. The patty for the burger comes from Fuel. Edwards plans to source as much as possible locally. The pasta, for example, is made by Miles Tamboli.

There’s a pot of vegetable beef stew near the door, along with squares of cornbread. Edwards says anyone who needs a meal can get one at Caritas, gratis.

It’s a place where all races, of all stations can break bread.

“Everyone eats together,” Edwards says.

Caritas Village, 2509 Harvard, 327-5246, caritasvillage.org

The Hi-Tone is finally, finally (!) serving food. It’s been a process, says Hi-Tone owner Brian “Skinny” McCabe. It took three-and-a-half years to bulldoze through low-dollar summertimes and “janky-ass” equipment to get to this point.

The menu is spare but creative, designed by Josh McLane. The emphasis here is on hand-held foods. Think of those paper food trays and you’ve got the picture.

There’s the Tapenadchos, with homemade pita chips and olive tapenade and pizzas straight out of your high-school cafeteria (cheese, pepperoni, and sausage). Sandwiches include the Hamtone and the vegetarian Cara. HEELS is a tribute to McLane’s band and is made with bacon, Provolone, spicy peanut butter, and homemade fruit jam. “It’s a beautiful, beautiful marriage,” says McCabe of the sandwich, which he says is straight-up stoner food.

Right now, the Hi-Tone is working out the kinks. Getting the staff used to serving food, correcting the typos on the menu. But, McCabe says, so far so good. Folks are coming after work to eat, or eating before gigs. “I won’t say it’s selling like hot cakes because we don’t serve hot cakes. It’s selling like hot sandwiches,” he says.

Specials start at about $3, and sandwiches run to $9.

One thing that folks can just forget about is the resurrection of the old favorite dishes from the original Hi-Tone. No way, no how. “It’s my Hi-Tone,” McCabe asserts.

Hi-Tone, 412 Cleveland, 490-0335, hitonecafe.com

Cafe 1912 will be marking its 16th year this weekend with menu specials. Much-beloved dishes that have slipped from the menu will reappear. Among them are the pizza with caramelized onions, mushrooms, and gruyere cheese; arugula salad caprese; fried spring roll with vegetables and beef; and veal piccata. The Queen Mother cake with cassis ice cream is being revived from the La Tourelle Menu. Queen Mother Cake is the flourless rich chocolate cake using ground almonds, based on Maida Heatter’s recipe.

Reservations are recommended (722-2700).

Cafe 1912’s 16th anniversary, September 21st-23rd.

Cafe 1912, 243 S. Cooper, 722-2700, cafe1912.com

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Lucky Cat Opening in Crosstown

CREDIT: Lucky Cat, Facebook

Lucky Cat, Facebook

Zach Nicholson and Sarah Pardee, owners of the pop-up ramen restaurant Lucky Cat, announced today that they are opening a permanent restaurant in the Crosstown Concourse building.

But, first, Lucky Cat will open another pop-up in corner space at Cafe 1912, which served briefly as a wine and tapas bar. The pop-up is set to open on June 2nd.

Nicholson and Pardee, who are married, are both trained chefs with experience in high-end dining. Nicholson worked for Erling Jensen. It was move to Austin that opened their eyes to ramen.

Nicholson says he’s eaten in the best restaurants around the country, but the really good ramen he was eating in Austin was like a brand new cuisine. And it was affordable.

The pair eventually returned to Memphis (Nicholson is from here). Pardee designed the menu for the Hollywood Feed bakery, Nicholson worked for Catherine & Mary’s.

They wanted to work for themselves, though, and a food truck seemed viable financially. Before they could get a loan, however, they were told to do some pop-ups first to test the concept. The first was in December 2016, and it’s been gangbusters since.

Lucky Cat, Facebook

Lucky Cat, Facebook

The success can be credited to those tasty ramen bowls that range from traditional to creative —  Tan Tan, Miso Pork, Yuzu Veggie. Nicholson says he sometimes goes Southern with a bowl featuring collard greens and bacon or with the Memphis BBQ Pork steam bun.

The pop-up restaurant will offer five to six bowls (3 or 4 pork, 1 or 2 veggie, and a rotating chicken bowl), plus a vegetarian bun and a pork bun. The space seats about 50 and will have at-counter ordering. The decor will have an Asian look and dim lighting.

The pop-up will be open for dinner Thursday through Sunday.

Nicholson says the Crosstown restaurant will be more polished, refined. It will be located at the front of the building near the Cleveland entrance. They hope to have it open in about 8 months.

Nicholson considers Erling Jensen as sort of a father figure. It was Jenseon who hooked him up with Glenn Hays of Cafe 1912. Jensen thinks of Glenn as his own father figure.

As for what Jensen thinks of the ramen, Nicholson says he loves it and has given Lucky Cat his blessing.

 

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Drinking “Well”: Should You Order the High-end Stuff at a Bar?

After work one day last week, a friend and I made an impromptu stop at the backroom bar at Cafe 1912. She ordered a glass of red wine, and I went for my standby, a gin and tonic. I saw my favorite gin, Hendrick’s, in its traditional dark glass jug, gleaming from the “top shelf” area behind the bartender’s station, but I hesitated, thinking about my bank account.

I couldn’t justify springing for Hendrick’s when I had three-fourths of a perfectly good bottle of it waiting for me at home. I pointed to another bottle on a lower shelf, which saved me a few bucks. And later that night as I drifted off to sleep, I wondered about my drinking preferences, and whether I was getting a lesser experience by drinking “well” liquor, the less pricey brands so-named because they’re stored within the bartender’s easy reach.

The medicinal, botanical flavors of gin complicate matters. If you enjoy Hendrick’s or Tanqueray or Uncle Val’s, you can certainly discern the nuances between the different notes — citrus, cucumber, or herbs added to the traditional juniper berry recipe — that differentiate one brand from the other. But opting for Gilbey’s or Seagram’s doesn’t mean that you won’t get a decent drink.

A circa-1980s study published by the British Medical Journal revealed the results of a whiskey-tasting experiment. Eight very lucky members of an academic surgical unit (some were whiskey connoisseurs; others were inexperienced drinkers) were blindfolded and given a flight of six whiskies. Each whiskey was tasted six times. The four regular whiskey drinkers performed about as well as the amateurs in identifying the different malts and blends. The former scored at 58 percent; the latter, 50 percent. They might as well have tossed coins before deciding their answers. And only once did a surgeon correctly identify where a particularly whiskey was produced.

Other booze-based academic tests have focused on “blind tastings” — asking drinkers to rate the quality of liquor solely based on taste. The results are fascinating: Cheaper whiskies score consistently higher than name brands, although signature Cognacs and gins do tend to rate as high as the off-brands.

Vodka has been under the microscope ever since Russian chemist Dmitri Mendeleev published his 1865 doctoral dissertation, which examined the hydrate clusters formed in solutions of 40 percent ethanol and 60 percent alcohol — the standard mix for any vodka recipe. A few decades after Linus Pauling, who won a Nobel Prize for his work in the chemistry lab in 1954 (and the Nobel Peace Prize in 1962), furthered Mendeleev’s work on hydrate clusters, a group of scientists at the University of Cincinnati partnered with scientists at Moscow State University to identify the chemical basis for why people might choose one vodka brand over another. Their results were published by the American Chemical Society in 2010. As reported by Science Daily, “Drinkers actually may be perceiving this internal structure or structurability of vodka, rather than taste in a traditional sense.” That means that, yes, people might prefer Grey Goose because of the chemistry involved, not because of the exclusivity of the brand.

Granted, a lot of things have changed in the beer world over the last 49 years. But at Stanford University in 1968, 60 regular beer drinkers were all served the same beer, albeit camouflaged in differently labeled bottles that indicated a variety of brands and price points. In the now-famous study published by J. Douglas McConnell in Applied Psychology, higher prices meant a perceived higher quality even though every bottle contained the same brew.

When ordering a simple cocktail, like my go-to gin and tonic or a Scotch and soda, choosing well liquor can be a prudent and tasty decision. In most cases — particularly whiskey and beer — science says so. With vodka and some other liquor, perhaps not so much.

After sorting through the research, my conclusion is this: When my bank account can handle it, I will choose Hendrick’s. I will also hold my head high when I don’t.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Cafe 1912 Tapas Wine Bar Changes Focus, etc.

Cafe 1912 Tapas Wine Bar, an offshoot of Cafe 1912 which opened in early June, will change its name and focus starting next Tuesday, October 19th. 

Cafe 1912 Tapas Wine Bar, says owner Glenn Hays, “never had an identity.” 

When the restaurant reopens on Tuesday, it will be Peabody Point Cafe. The menu will be composed of large dinner salads (nicoise, lyonnaise) and pasta dishes (lasagne, mac and cheese). There will be some dishes for children as well, says Hays. 

Prices run from $8-$10. 

The decor will remain the same. The cocktail list and wine list will be carried over from tapas bar as well. 

• October 17-21 is Memphis Seafood Week.

From the event page:

With October being National Seafood Month it was only right to highlight our seafood partner restaurants for Memphis Seafood Week 2016. Eating healthy is a good way to keep a healthy heart. The national non-profit, Seafood Nutrition Partnership (SNP) is doing its part by building a coalition of community leaders, restaurant owners, and other influencers that will help spread the message of the health benefits that come along with consuming seafood.

Participating restaurants include DejaVu, Sekisui, Flying Fish, Mardi Gras, and others. 

• The first-ever King Cotton Beans and Bluegrass Festival is this Sunday at the Landers Center, from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

It’s a Ozark-themed festival with mountain music from Tennessee Ripple and bean-themed activities, including bean races (no clue!) and a bean bag toss. 

There will be a pinto-bean cooking contest and a cornbread cooking contest, as well. 

Benefiting Porter Leath. 

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Bar Report: On the Regular

CREDIT: Justin Fox Burks

If there’s a bar where everybody knows your name, you’re probably an alcoholic — anonymous

That’s a riff on the old Cheers theme song, of course. And, of course, it’s not true. You are not an alcoholic — not you! — just because the bartender looks up when you arrive and starts pouring your favorite libation. You’re not an alcoholic just because everyone at the bar turns and shouts your name when you enter. You’re a regular, just like they are. You’re walking into your home away from home, your family away from family. Your special joint.

And that’s what this new monthly column, “Bar Report,” is going to be about — a look into Memphis bars and pubs and the culture surrounding them. Flyer staffers are going to take turns writing the column. We’ll be talking about all kinds of stuff: What are the best bars for first dates? What makes a good sports bar? How do you find a bar that’s age appropriate? Is there one thing that all good bartenders have in common?

We’ll be writing about drink trends, seasonal beverages, day drinking, historic bars, bar hopping, ethnic bars, dive bars, high-end dining bars, seasonal drinks — you name it, and we’re probably going to cover it.

I was discussing “regulars” with a bartender friend the other day and thought maybe that would be as good a topic as any with which to kick off this column. It’s one of the things that isn’t discussed much but seems obvious on reflection: how various establishments become venues for particular age groups — how “regulars” select their venue. One bar might draw baby boomers while the place two doors down the street is filled with millennials. The choice gets made based on many factors: the kind of food, the music, the décor, the noise level, the proximity to other places. A craft brewery will draw a different crowd than a wine bar or a cocktail-centric bar, obviously.

But the variations on a theme are almost endless: There are pickup bars, gay bars, wine bars, craft beer joints, live music clubs, dance clubs, after-hours bars, foodie bars, artisanal cocktail bars, Irish pubs, to name a few. Someone who’s out to meet strangers and drink themselves into a bed will go to a different kind of venue than the person who just wants a quiet joint where they can have a conversation with friends. A married couple in their 50s will want a different bar experience than two single women in their 30s.

One thing is certain, though: Regulars are the lifeblood of any drinking establishment. David Parks, who holds down the fort behind the bar at Alchemy, says “regulars represent 75 percent of my income, but it’s more than that. Some of them have become close friends — and friends with each other. A few even got married, with varying degrees of success.”

Justin Fox Burks

Allan Creasy

Allan Creasy is the bar manager at Celtic Crossing. He says regulars can make — or break — a bar: “If you walked into a bar, and it was perfect — had all your favorite drafts, had the televisions on exactly what you wanted to watch, there was a friendly bar staff — but if every person who started a conversation with you was an ass, you would stop going, eventually.

“Friendly regulars are worth their weight in gold,” he adds. “It’s impossible for me to chat with everyone and make drinks at the same time. A good regular is almost doing a part of my job for me, making the pub more of a home.”

Tyler Morgan and Justin Gerych man the bar at Cafe 1912. They will tell you the quiet backroom venue tends to draw a more mature crowd, seasoned Midtowners looking for decent food and friendly conversation.

On a recent night, when Morgan was pouring the drinks and the place was filled with regulars, a young couple walked in and took the last two seats at the bar. They were immediately peppered with friendly questions: “Where do you work?” “Where do you live?” “Do y’all like Midtown?” “How long have you been dating?” It was like they’d just come home from college and were dealing with nosy parents, probably not what they expected to encounter on a dinner date, but they endured the inquisition good-naturedly.

At one point, a geriatric-looking fellow — a regular, of course — stood up and adjusted his pants at the crotch.

“What are you doing, Richard?” asked his companion, slightly horrified.

“Adjusting my chemo bag and having another drink, goddammit.”

He then turned to the young couple and said, “I bet you two feel like you’ve just walked onto the set of Cocoon.”

Ah, regulars. Can’t live with ’em. Can’t live without ’em.

Categories
Letter From The Editor Opinion

Bacon, Cheese Dip, and Rocket Scientists

A couple weeks ago, I was sitting at the bar in my neighborhood bistro eating a Lyonnaise salad. They use Benton’s smoked bacon in their salad, and it’s delicious. I raved about it to the bartender, and the restaurant owner, who happened to be sitting nearby, overheard me. He told me I could order it online.

I’d had just enough wine to decide that ordering some bacon sounded like something I needed to do. I Googled Benton smoked bacon, found the website, and began trying to order it on my phone. After a couple false starts, I managed to type in my address, phone number, and credit card number. It took a while, I admit, but it was dark in there. I ordered a couple of pounds, or so I thought. Three days later, 12 pounds of bacon showed up in a savory smelling box on my front porch. Oops.

When I went back to the restaurant a week or so later, a cook came out and gave me a five-pound bag of bacon. She said it was from Glen, the owner, because he was pretty sure I’d never gotten through to Benton Farms on my phone that night.

Wrongo, mon ami! Thanks to his generous gesture, I’d pretty much cornered the local market on Benton Smoked Bacon.

A couple days later, the Internet was filled with news of a World Health Organization story that eating bacon and other processed meats increases the risk of cancer. So I got that goin’ for me.

But at least I didn’t steal 50,000 empty Pancho’s Cheese Dip containers, like that schmo over in West Memphis. It’s hard to imagine a more stupid thing to steal. What was he going to do with 50,000 empty plastic cups that say “Pancho’s Cheese Dip”? Sell them in the want ads? How does that work?

For Sale: 50,000 empty Pancho’s dip cups, valued at $70,000. Will take $6.00, OBO.

Less than 24 hours after stealing the cups, the thief returned the booty, claiming it was a “mistake.” No kidding.

And at least I didn’t decide that slow-talkin’ brain surgeon Ben Carson would be the best candidate for president, like Iowa GOP voters did. It’s true. Carson moved into the lead, ahead of Donald Trump, in the Iowa polls, proving that Iowa Republicans are not rocket scientists. Not that they have much to choose from.

All this came on the heels of the 11-hour campaign ad that the GOP House Select Committee on Benghazi gave to Democratic candidate Hillary Clinton by ineptly “grilling” her on national television. It got so bad that even Fox News switched over to other programming.

It’s been a tough week for bacon lovers, dumb thieves, and the GOP. But there’s another Republican debate coming up in a couple days, and I can’t wait. I just need to find some cheese dip.

Categories
Cover Feature News

What a Burger!

CREDIT: Justin Fox Burks

Burgers are having their moment in Memphis. Witness the three burger-centric places that opened just in the past few months — Oshi, LBOE, and Belly Acres. Now, don’t get us wrong, we love the classics from Huey’s, Earnestine & Hazel’s, and Kooky Canuck, but there are folks out there who are stretching the limit of what a burger is — from the raw, to the bunless, to the innovative flourishes. Here are 15 of the city’s most awe-inspiring takes on the all-American classic.

Justin Fox Burks

The Big Cheeser

The Big Cheeser

at El Toro Loco

The Big Cheeser at El Toro Loco is the perfect Mexican expression of an American favorite. It’s a basic cheeseburger topped with shredded lettuce, tomato, and pickled jalapeno. Then the entire burger is covered in melted Chihuahua cheese. The best part? It’s topped with a cherry! It comes out looking like a beautiful dinner/dessert hybrid. The cherry is really just for show, but the Chihuahua cheese has the delicious effect of steaming the bun underneath. While it does require a knife and fork, it is truly outstanding and should not be overlooked.

— Stacey Greenberg

El Toro Loco, 2617 Poplar (458-4414)

torolocos.com

The Burger

at Cafe 1912

In keeping with the French bistro ambiance of Cafe 1912, this burger is tres formidable, but with a gourmet feel. A hefty portion of premium ground beef is topped with Benton Farms bacon, Maytag bleu cheese (or provolone, if you prefer), roasted garlic aioli, red onion, fresh tomatoes, and lettuce, all served on a ciabatta bun. It’s accompanied by a pile of skinny, crispy pomme frites, none of which will be left on your plate. Cafe 1912’s burger is delicious and filling, and you’ll probably find yourself using a fork before dinner is over. This goes perfectly with a nice glass of Pinot Noir, or my favorite, a Duvel Belgian beer.

— Bruce VanWyngarden

Cafe 1912, 243 S. Cooper (722-2700)

cafe1912.com

The Big Smack

at Imagine Vegan Cafe

Two non-beef patties, special sauce, lettuce, cheese, pickles, and onion on a dairy-free bun. Isn’t that how the song went? Oh yeah, that was “all-beef patties.” Well, screw that song. Imagine Vegan Cafe’s meat-free version of the iconic McDonald’s sandwich is much better for the animals and your health. Their vegan burger patties have a toothsome, meaty texture (this ain’t no flimsy, hippie bean burger), and they’re guaranteed to hold together until the last bite. The dairy-free cheddar is so melty that you’ll need napkins (and maybe a fork). — Bianca Phillips

Imagine Vegan Cafe, 2299 Young (654-3455)

imaginevegancafe.com

Justin Fox Burks

The Greek to Me

The Greek to Me

at LBOE

The Greek to Me burger at recently opened LBOE (Last Burger on Earth) is the perfect choice for anyone desiring to sink their teeth into a flavorful delight with a twist.

Made-to-order with fresh ground beef, the juicy 8 oz. burger is cooked medium-well and dressed with sautéed spinach, tzatziki sauce, and a dollop of roasted garlic cream cheese. Two toasted and buttered ciabatta buns hold everything together.

The burger comes with chips. My recommendation: the spicy, eye-watering Nikki’s Hot Ass Chips.

Reasonably priced at $9.95, the Greek to Me is enough for two people to split and will leave you full and satisfied. — Louis Goggans

LBOE, 2021 Madison (725-0770)

lboerestaurant.com

The Pat LaFrieda Chopped Steak Burger

at Off the Hoof

First off, be aware that Off the Hoof is a fairly far piece, especially on a bad rainy night and even if (like me) you already live way out east. Once at Off the Hoof, though, you’ll be impressed by the crowds in the place (even on a bad rainy night), even if that makes for something like assembly-line service. Now, ready? The proprietors are specialists. Burgers are basically all they do, and their menu consists of infinite variations on that theme. (Anyone for ground boar? I kid you not.) I had their specialty, the Pat LaFrieda (beef) — which is, I was told, two kinds of steak, each ground and chopped into a coherent and well-textured patty. I had mine well-done with habanero pepper jack cheese simmered into the patty. Hearty and not overly spicy, even so. Several varieties of fries, too — including the sweet potato kind.

— Jackson Baker

Off the Hook Burgers, 12013 U.S. Highway 70, Arlington (867-3565)

offthehoofburgers.com

Stacey Greenberg

Bi Bim Bop Burger

Bi Bim Bop Burger

at Kwik Chek

Kwik Chek, which is known for its popular Korean dish, Bi Bim Bop, recently introduced the Bi Bim Bop Burger. Bi Bim Bop is typically served in a sizzling hot stone bowl and includes rice, meat of your choosing (or tofu), sliced veggies, bean sprouts, an over easy egg, and a spicy red sauce.

The Bi Bim Bop burger takes a cheeseburger and tops it with the veggies, beans sprouts, and egg. It is a beauty. And it is seriously messy. The addition of cheese and mayonnaise was a bit off-putting at first, but the flavors really come together nicely. If you are a fan of Bi Bim Bop, or just unusual burgers, it’s definitely worth a try. Grab several napkins and a fork.

— SG

Kwik Chek, 2013 Madison (274-9293)

Memphis Flyer Staff

Voodoo Moo-Moo

Voodoo Moo-Moo

at Belly Acres

Others would have played it safe. I’m not others.

“Go for something basic,” they’d say. “Develop a baseline for comparison.”

Blackened patty. Blue cheese. Sriracha aioli. How could I say no? I couldn’t, especially with all of the “Os” in Voodoo Moo-Moo eyeing me from the menu.

Plus, it’s tough to even get a “basic” burger at Belly Acres, the newest player on the city’s burger stage. The closest thing to standard is the Dare Ya, a bacon cheeseburger with “acre sauce.”

Not sure if Belly Acres was going for a New Orleans kind of thing with the Voodoo Moo-Moo. It’s a guess based on the name, the blackened-ness of the thing, and the presence of aioli. Also, on the menu it’s sandwiched between burgers with Mexican and Italian influences.

But after the first bite, the name barely mattered. Something magical happened when the blue cheese hit the caramelized onions, the blackened beef, and the perfectly placed pickles. When it happened to me, I closed my eyes in a moment of involuntarily and very public burger worship. No, I was not transported to the Crescent City but to hamburger heaven.

The Voodoo Moo-Moo is just one daring burger on a list of daring burgers from Belly Acres. Chorizo. Waffle buns. Pork belly. Guacamole. Maple ketchup. The menu alone has put Belly Acres on the Memphis burger map, and if it maintains the quality I got Monday, it is destined to be a hotspot for a long time.

— Toby Sells

Belly Acres, 2102 Trimble (529-7017)

bellyacres901.com

Stacey Greenberg

Tora Toro

Tora Toro

at Oshi Burger Bar

Newly opened Oshi features its own Asian-inspired burger, the Tora Toro. It is made from house ground Ahi tuna and is topped with “crushed” avocado, Asian slaw, sesame seeds, and umami mayo. It’s super tasty, especially with a side of their thin and crispy French fries, which are served with a spicy ketchup that has its own Asian flare. For die-hard burger fans, it is a nice change from the typical beef patty and is maybe even a tad healthier? At the very least it is a great way to get your pescatarian friends to join you at the trendiest new burger joint downtown. — SG

Oshi Burger Bar, 94 S. Main (341-2091)

oshiburger.com

Marrow Burgers

at home

Take charge! Why wait around on a burger like a chump? Charlie’s Meat Market on Summer (aka the Avenue of Delights) will set you up with the latest rage: marrow burgers. There are a trillion recipes online, but basically you get beef bones and some chuck, knife the marrow out of the bones, salt and pepper the beef, and wad it all into patties. Grill, griddle, whatever. The result is a crazily moist, beefy burger (if you’re like me) or a lipid-sodden meat sponge (if you’re like my wife). Bring some acidity: a pepper relish, pickles, or a Malbec. — Joe Boone

Charlie’s Meat Market, 4790 Summer (683-1192)

charliesmemphis.com

Stacey Greenberg

Ecco Burger

ECCO Burger

at ECCO on Overton Park

ECCO on Overton Park’s signature ECCO burger features a spicy Chorizo sausage patty and is served on a homemade bun. Inside you’ll find melted manchego cheese and garlic aioli. It’s quite sophisticated, but don’t be fooled. It’s not for the weak of stomach as it packs a punch. — SG

1585 Overton Park (410-8200)

eccoonovertonpark.com

The Bacon Burger Wrap

at 5 Guys Burgers and Fries

There are several gourmet options for gluten-free burger lovers these days, but when you’re on the go and only have time for fast food, you may have to forget about the bun. In that case, 5 Guys has you covered. For those who prefer their food in a pile, 5 Guys will drop any of their burger combinations into a bread-free bowl, but the lettuce wrap is so much more convenient and burger-appropriate. The bacon burger is comprised of two flat-top-grilled burger patties and a healthy serving of crispy bacon. It’s tasty, if a little plain, but it can be gussied up with grilled onions and jalapenos, and a wide range of condiments and toppings that are available at no extra charge. What’s special about this burger is the care that’s taken in wrapping it in large, pliable, but still slightly crunchy lettuce leaves. You may begin to wonder why anybody would ever use a bun in the first place. — Chris Davis

5 Guys Burgers and Fries, multiple locations

fiveguys.com

Justin Fox Burks

The Colossus

The Colossus

at 3 Angels On Broad

I must hurry and finish this blurb before I slip into meat-induced catatonia for I have just eaten a Colossus. The most aptly named burger on our list stands astride the menu at the recently revamped 3 Angels On Broad as a towering achievement in burger architecture. The burger is a half pound of lean chuck fried to perfection, married with smoked gouda, and topped with two thick strips of bacon. On the opposing bun, a garlic mayo base supports pickles, tomatoes, slaw, and a nest of thin, crispy fried onions. This is the burger to have if you’ve been fasting for a few days, or if you’re ready to settle down into a long winter’s nap. — Chris McCoy

3 Angels on Broad, 2617 Broad (452-1111)

3angelsmemphis.com

Memphis Flyer Staff

Cashew Burger

Cashew Burger

at 2 Vegan Sistas

This raw vegan burger may well be the healthiest burger in town. Finely ground seasoned cashews are shaped into a patty and covered in pickles, onions, ketchup, and mustard. It’s served on a heart of romaine, but those with heartier appetites can request gluten-free bread. Pro tip: Order the bread on the side and take a bite with each forkful of cashew burger. To complete this super-healthy version of the all-American meal, order 2 Vegan Sistas’ take on a chocolate milkshake — the Carob Smoothie, made with carob, tahini, and almond milk. — BP

2 Vegan Sistas, 6343 Summer, Suite 100 (1-800-984-0379)

twovegansistas.com

Justin Fox Burks

The Ramen Burger

The Ramen Burger

at South of Beale

Brittany Cabigao, one of the operating partners of South of Beale, says they added a Ramen burger as a special to their menu after hearing about the New York craze. Ramen noodle master Keizo Shimamoto blew people’s minds with his bun made from crispy Ramen noodles at his restaurant Ramen Co.

The burger, topped with spinach and a homemade ramen sauce, was supposed to be a one-day thing, but proved so popular they added a second day. And while Cabigao doesn’t think the Ramen burger would ever make it on South of Beale’s regular menu, the burger will be on special this week as well as New Year’s Eve. — SG

361 S. Main (526-0388)

southofbeale.com

Justin Fox Burks

The Barbecue Burger

The Barbecue Burger

at Tops Bar•B•Q

Any burger fan cannot consider him/herself truly serious without a visit to Tops Bar•B•Q. While many may be aware of their famous barbecue sandwiches and many may have heard that their cheeseburgers have a cult-like following, it is only a few who have dared to combine the two. For the Barbecue Burger, order a burger and ask for an ounce of pork, slaw, and barbecue sauce. Depending on which Tops you go to, the extra meat may be underneath the hamburger patty. Seth Agranov, founder of the Best Memphis Burger Fest, says, “The barbecue should be on top, not under the burger. Placement counts!” He suggests going “all in” and adding an extra hamburger patty.

It seems like a lot for one bun to handle, but the burger/barbeque combo goes down surprisingly well. It’s so good that it may be gone before you get a chance to fully appreciate it. — SG

Tops Bar•B•Q, multiple locations

topsbarbq.com

Categories
We Recommend We Recommend

La Fête

CREDIT: Dreamstime

With the Fourth of July over and done and all those hot dogs and hamburgers consumed, it’s time to move on to Bastille Day (La Fête Nationale) and its more sophisticated fare. This national holiday in France marks the beginning of the French Revolution and is observed annually on July 14th. Memphians with a Francophile streak can get in on the action at two local restaurants.

The Bastille Day dinner on Saturday at Chez Philippe is part of the Peabody hotel’s Historic Dinners series. The five-course prix fixe menu, created by Chef Ryan Spruhan, features very French dishes, including vichyssoise, ratatouille, bouillabaisse, and coq au vin. For dessert, there will be a selection of cakes.

The Bastille Day dinner at Cafe 1912 is a decades-long tradition that began at the old La Tourelle. The dinner is so popular that this year Cafe 1912 is making a weekend of it, with seatings Friday, Saturday, and Sunday starting at 5 p.m. According to Martha Hays, who owns Cafe 1912 with her husband Glenn, the cuisine at this French restaurant has gotten more eclectic over the years, and so the Bastille Day dishes — it’s à la carte and the regular menu is also being offered — will be a bit more traditional. Think Julia Child, says Hays. Among the dishes are a pâté of foie gras, duck breast with orange sauce, and strawberries soaked in Grand Marnier served on puff pastry and topped with Chantilly cream. Hays says they’ll put up some decorations and play Maurice Chevalier and then let the evening take its course. “The party is up to people who come,” she says.

Finally, for the kids who won’t go anywhere near bouillabaisse, there’s Bastille Day crafts at the Children’s Museum of Memphis on Saturday, starting at 11 a.m. Participants will learn about French history and make French flags using collage materials. There will be no pretend-time prison-storming or beheadings. We checked.

BASTILLE DAY DINNER AT CHEZ PHILIPPE, SATURDAY, JULY 14TH, 7 P.M. $85 PER PERSON, PLUS $30 FOR WINE PAIRING. RESERVATIONS: 529-4188.

Bastille Day Dinner at Cafe 1912, Friday-Sunday, July 13th-15th. Seatings start at 5 p.m. Reservations: 722-2700.