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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Booking It

Full disclosure: Joy Bateman is an account executive for the Flyer‘s sister publication Memphis magazine. She’s also a local food aficionado, illustrator, and author, who has applied her culinary and artistic talents to craft The Art of Dining in New Orleans. The 80-page book follows The Art of Dining in Memphis, which was published two years ago.

In The Art of Dining in New Orleans, Bateman embraces the Crescent City and its rich culinary traditions, including recipes and anecdotes from more than 30 eateries — from Arnaud’s and Bayona to Café Du Monde and Tujague’s. The book includes one or two recipes from every restaurant — Mulat’s crawfish étouffée, Bon Ton Café’s homemade turtle soup, and Commander’s Palace’s “Dove Poppers with Five Pepper Jelly,” among them — and a chef’s suggestion or comment here and there, plus Bateman’s own observations.

In addition, each page is illustrated with Bateman’s drawings of the restaurants or particular details, such as recipe ingredients (leeks, turtles, lemons, asparagus), silverware, plates, and crystal chandeliers.

Bateman will be signing The Art of Dining in New Orleans on Thursday, October 18th, at 6 p.m. at Davis-Kidd Booksellers.

Davis-Kidd Booksellers, 387 Perkins Ext. (683-9801)

When the Pinch District bistro Café Francisco closed last month, it was a surprise to everyone — including owner Julie Ray.

While business had slowed after The Pyramid was shuttered, Ray says she always thought that everything would eventually work out.

“Honestly, I thought I could just stick this out,” Ray says. “There was this pattern that when something happened that made me consider closing the café, a few days later something great would happen that would let me believe that we can make it.”

In the end, the bad outweighed the good. Part of the decision to close came after an unusually high utility bill. Ray, who runs the cafe with her family and whose husband owns and operates Café Francisco in San Francisco, also cites her desire “to have her family be her family” and not her business partners.

“It was hard. I love this neighborhood, and I thought we were here for good,” Ray says. “I looked through all the things people have written about the café on the Internet, and I couldn’t find a single one that was negative. We really tried.”

Ray estimates that it will take approximately six months to dissolve the business. As for the future, Ray isn’t sure where she’ll end up.

“There are many possibilities. But for now, I have to take care of what’s left of the café.”

In other news: Brett “Shaggy” Duffee, formerly of the Beauty Shop and Dō, is now chef at Equestria. Robert Howay, sous chef at the Beauty Shop under Duffee, now leads the kitchen at the Cooper-Young eatery.

Ciao Bella, the Italian restaurant well-known for its thin-crust pizza, will move into the location that used to be occupied by Lulu Grille, which closed its doors at the end of August. The move, hopefully completed in November, will double Ciao Bella’s space and allow for two private dining rooms. Pei Wei Asian Diner will move into a space just a few storefronts down from the current Ciao Bella in the Mendenhall Commons Shopping Center on the corner of Mendenhall and Sanderlin. The Asian noodle-shop-inspired restaurant is scheduled to open its new location early in 2008.

Harrah’s Entertainment, Inc. is teaming up with Paula Deen. The company is planning an estimated $45 million expansion of Grand Casino Resort Tunica, including a 560-seat Paula Deen’s Buffet, which is expected to open next spring. Part of the revamp is a new name for the casino — Harrah’s Casino Tunica — and a second floor “entertainment promenade” that will include retail stores and restaurants.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

A Cup of Christmas

Has being swept up in the holiday frenzy left you no time for your afternoon cup of coffee? The aroma alone of Café Francisco‘s Holiday Blend will make you find the time.

“Our Holiday Blend tastes like most kitchens smell during the holidays,” says Julie Ray, Café Francisco’s owner.

Think spice cake, pecan-cinnamon rum cake, gingerbread, and chocolate cookies all in a bean. After the beans are roasted, they are tossed in flavored oils that give them their unique aroma. Most of Café Francisco’s flavored blends are coated with a tiny amount of powdered sugar to give them just a hint of sweetness. Some of the more popular flavors are chocolate macadamia nut, hazelnut, and chocolate mint.

Flavored coffees and the Holiday Blend range from $15.99 to $16.99 per pound. The café’s regular roasts and blends (Memphis Blend, Columbian Supremo, and Brasil Bourbon are just a few) range from $12.99 to $14.99 per pound, and when available, Ray uses organic and/or fair-trade beans for her coffee. Ray typically roasts coffee once a week, and she’ll even fill special flavor requests if you can’t find the one you want on the menu.

Café Francisco, 400 N. Main(578-8002)

The Cheesecake Corner has recently expanded its menu and now also offers 14 varieties of quiches. Kevin Matthews, the store’s owner and baker, says it was only natural to add a savory option for guests who want to enjoy a glass of wine in the store’s bistro area.

Quiches include creamy chicken, spinach artichoke, turkey dressing, crab, salmon, and cheeseburger and cost between $8 and $13 a slice and between $50 and $90 for a nine-inch round.

Cheesecake Corner, 113 G.E. Patterson (525-2253)

Memphis has a new sandwich shop that’s really hot.

Firehouse Subs is Robin and Chris Sorensen‘s family affair. The brothers are natives of Jacksonville, Florida, where their parents owned a retail television business that taught the boys the ins and outs of customer service. It was a long way from televisions to sandwiches, however. Robin and Chris tried their luck at several ventures until finally deciding to open a sub shop in 1994. Their quest was to be unique and to serve bigger and tastier subs than the competition. They wanted to serve subs that were piled high with premium meats and cheeses.

For more than two years, almost every Sorensen family gathering turned into a taste test, until the brothers finally found what they were looking for: hot subs with moist and tender meat and flavorful cheese. Their solution: toasting the bread but steaming the meat and cheese.

Finding a unique concept for their sub restaurant wasn’t too hard. Robin and Chris come from a family that has more than 200 years of public service as firefighters. When the brothers opened their first Firehouse Subs in Jacksonville 12 years ago (financing most of the costs by charging them to Robin’s mother-in-law’s credit card), few people imagined that it would become an empire with more than 200 stores in the Southeast.

On the menu at Firehouse are hot specialty subs (NY Steamer with corned beef brisket and pastrami or the Engine Company with smoked turkey breast and premium roast beef), cold subs (white chicken salad and tuna salad), and subs from the steamer, which includes a vegetarian sub with sautéed mushrooms, bell peppers, onions, lettuce, tomato, mayo, mustard, Italian dressing, and three cheeses.

Firehouse Subs, 7505 Highway 64, Bartlett (373-9200);7685 Farmington Blvd., Germantown (755-8633)

siba@gmx.com