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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

A Look Inside Evergreen Grill

Evergreen Grill is now open. In more ways than one.

The new Midtown restaurant at 212 North Evergreen Street officially opened for business March 1st.

So did the interior, says chef/owner David Todd. “We wanted to open it up a little bit,” he says. “And we wanted to make it feel a little more casual. Spruce the place up. Brighten it up.

“It’s a cool building. An interesting building. So, like a lot of those Midtown buildings, you don’t want to update it too much because then, in my mind, it wouldn’t fit any more.”

In short, Todd says, “Pay homage to what was already there. Spruce it up a little bit, but in a way that kind of leans into the area.”

Evergreen Grill (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Evergreen Grill (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Evergreen Grill (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Evergreen Grill (Credit: Michael Donahue)

The enlarged black-and-white photos on the walls were one way for him to achieve that, he says. “One is the intersection of Poplar and Evergreen,” says Todd, who believes the photo was taken 60 or 70 years ago. 

Another one that shows an old Piggly Wiggly grocery store between Union Avenue and Peabody Avenue.

Todd got the photos, many of which he believes were taken in the 1940s, through the Memphis Public Library. “I’ve got a guy that does some graphic work for me. He was combing through all these photos online and narrowing them down and sending them to me.”

Evergreen Grill (Credit: Michael Donahue)

Also, as far as the look, Todd says, “There was carpet on the floor that we removed from the dining areas.”

He put in a tile floor and “We painted the ceilings dark and the walls white.” They also removed a wall to open up the bar area and create a “pass-through lounge.”

Evergreen Grill (Credit: Michael Donahue)

As for the kitchen, Todd says they “brought in some new equipment and reconfigured it.”

In an earlier interview, Todd described Evergreen Grill, which is where the old Cafe Society restaurant used to be, as “a neighborhood bar and grill.” The fare is “Southern cuisine comfort food.”

Instead of “lofty fine dining food with foams and that kind of stuff,” Todd is serving “approachable food.”

He includes items people might get at other places, but not the way he’s going to prepare them.  “I have no problem making one of the best cheeseburgers in town.”

Todd was executive chef at Longshot restaurant at Arrive Memphis hotel as well as owner of Grub Life, a fully prepared meal service.

Evergreen Grill (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Chef David Todd at Evergreen Grill (Photo: Michael Donahue)
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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Dream Bars launches new bar concept in Memphis

In Memphis, it’s only mildly uncustomary to walk into a bar where a woman wearing bunny ears is seated in an armchair surveying the scene. This particular woman is Hayley Milliman, one half of the duo behind Dream Bars. She and business partner Miles Kovarik have just launched their latest concept (they’re also the team that created Potterfest) in a seldom-used corner of Cafe Society.

The idea behind Dream Bars is ambitious: Every few weeks, they stage another pop-up bar with a new theme in a new location. From now through September 30th, it’s Wunderland, with an Alice in Wonderland theme. The next pop-up, launching in early October in a different place … who knows? Though we might see the pop-up bars resurface at Cafe Society again one month, we’ll never see the Alice theme again. With this sort of turnaround, you’d expect a lackluster presentation. But Hayley and Miles, I learned, don’t half-ass anything.

A friend and I visited the Wunderland bar last week, and the bartender immediately handed us two apothecary bottles marked “Drink Me.” This is a good way to get people to hang out at your bar. Another great way to get people to hang out at your bar is to offer a selection of drinks that include an alcoholic hot tea and an absinthe cocktail. We got one of each, then we got another of each, and then we hung out with Hayley and Miles and yammered for several hours.

Normally, I credit the alcohol for any ability to talk to strangers, but Miles and Hayley are easy to talk to and eager to share their ideas about moving forward with Dream Bars. Miles excitedly explains his vision but credits Hayley with bringing all the intelligence to the table (“Duh, she’s a woman,” I wrote in my notes). Their passion is obvious, as anyone who has attended one of their Potterfest events knows well. They have an ease with discussing their hopes for Dream Bars that is refreshing and, for a cynic like me, inspiring.

After traveling extensively and hanging out in concept bars all around the globe, Hayley and Miles figured they could pull off a similar deal in Memphis. Their goal is to get their patrons to re-think their bar experience, and to head home and, as Miles put it, say to themselves, “Well, that was interesting.”

Here in Cafe Society, they’ve provided a full experience, from a lavender scent to a playlist wherein each song vaguely references Alice in Wonderland. The drinks are served in teacups, many of which Hayley found at Goodwill. The Alice theme, while by no means an easy undertaking, is just the start. They promise that each concept fuels the next and each idea will be a little more out there, but we won’t know what’s next until October.

Hayley Milliman

The awesome thing about Dreams Bars is that it promotes a symbiotic relationship between the company and the host bar/restaurant. Dream Bars will use an under-utilized space in a host bar and not only take advantage of the spare room but also provide exposure for the place. The chef of each host restaurant will provide insight for the menu. Cullen Kent, the chef and owner of Cafe Society, worked with Dream Bars to craft a themed food menu for the Alice concept. (They had a mushroom appetizer called “Eat Me,” but I had already been down the absinthe road and so I tapped the brakes.)

Providing exposure for existing spaces isn’t the only way that Dream Bars embraces Memphis, of course. They also craft their drink menu using local spirits from Old Dominick, and 10 percent of their profit is donated to a different local charity (the charity, like the theme and location, will change each time).

The sort of innovation that went in to Dream Bars, from the décor to the drinks, is what makes it stand out. In a city full of fun and interesting bars, it’s hard to come up with something new. They’ve succeeded. The drinks are fantastic (I tried them all, even one made with spiced rum that ended up being delicious), and the atmosphere was a perfect backdrop to make two new friends and somehow end up talking about Vin Diesel and the correct pronunciation of “Budapest.” Alice welcomes visitors Thursday through Saturday nights, from 7 p.m. until midnight, and I urge you to approach that fun couple, one of whom will be wearing bunny ears, and introduce yourself. We wouldn’t want to lose them to some other city.

Dream Bars Wunderland at Cafe Society (212 N. Evergreen) through September 30th.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Get Mugged

The Memphis brew festival scene is growing, and on Saturday, October 9th, the inaugural Cooper-Young Regional Beerfest brings one more event to the lineup. With a special focus on independent regional breweries — all within a day’s drive of Memphis — the Cooper-Young event will bring together nine different breweries, from Asheville, North Carolina, to Abita Springs, Louisiana.

“You go to other beer festivals, and they’re always like, ‘We’re going to have more than 200 beers.’ But they’re beers you can get all over. We’re taking a different approach and focusing on beers that are made in this area,” says Andy Ashby, event organizer and beer enthusiast.

“The idea is similar to the proliferation of farmers markets. People like the idea of getting food locally, and beer is a perishable food product,” Ashby says. “You can have great beer made in Seattle and Portland, but if you’re getting it here, it’s already several weeks old. Whereas Ghost River might be brewed on the same street as the bar in which you drank it. It’s fresher and just better overall.”

The festival, which runs from 1 to 5 p.m., will take place at 1015 South Cooper, in the parking lot of Lifelink Memphis. In addition to beer from the breweries, the Bluff City Home Brewers will be giving samples of their beers, Au Fond will sell food onsite, and attendees get a commemorative beer mug.

Tickets are $25 for Cooper-Young Community Association members and $30 for nonmembers and can be purchased in advance at cooperyoung.org.

In an effort to keep the festival small, Ashby says the CYCA will only sell 400 tickets, which he hopes will allow more focus on beer education and communication between beer lovers and brewers.

“You can ask questions about the beer, because the person pouring it has brewed the beer or has some knowledge of it,” he says. “This festival is to raise awareness about regional beers, as opposed to just drinking a lot of beer.” He adds, smiling, “Not that there’s anything wrong with that.”

cooperyoung.org

In honor of next year’s Memphis in May tribute country, Belgium, Café Society will host a series of beer samplings, highlighting one of that country’s greatest exports and finest crafts. Michel Leny, Café Society’s founder, is a native Belgian and will provide food pairings to accompany beers from Trappist monasteries such as Chimay and Orval as well as traditional Belgian beers such as Kasteel, Duvel, Delirium Tremens, and Delirium Nocturnum.

Steve Barzizza of Southwestern Beverages is in charge of collecting the beers for sampling.

“Belgian beers are mostly high-alcohol beers — between 7 and 12 percent — which are a lot more than your regular Bud-, Miller-, and Coors-type beers,” Barzizza says. “They’re a lot more flavorful; they’ve got a lot of dried fruit flavor to them. Everyone knows of Stella Artois, but that’s like Belgium’s Budweiser.”

On September 28th, November 9th, and February 8th, you can sample four to five beers served with fruit and cheese for $20. Add traditional Belgian fare for $5 per small plate.

On April 12th and May 17th, Café Society will host a full beer dinner for $45 a person. Mussels, Belgian stew, pommes frites, crêpes, and chocolate desserts — Café Society is bringing the best tastes of Belgium for Memphis in May.

For more information or to make your reservation, call 722-7177.

Café Society, 212 N. Evergreen (722-2177)