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Mahogany River Terrace Opens on the River October 2nd

Remember those days when you dined at the River Terrace on Mud Island, with the view of the Mississippi River and the sunsets? Remember how you felt?

Well, you can feel that way again when Mahogany River Terrace opens October 2nd at 280 Island Drive,  the space once occupied by the River Terrace.

Owner Carlee McCullough, who also owns Mahogany Memphis restaurant at 3092 Poplar Avenue Number 11, describes the downtown location as “elegant dining.”

“I think it’s elegant, modern, and it really gives Memphis something to be proud of.”

Describing the food, McCullough, a native Memphian, says, “We are upscale Southern, with a dash of Creole, and with an emphasis on seafood at this location.”

McCullough adds that they will be “playing off the river” at the downtown location. The lunch menu will feature a soft-shell crab slider and a crab Caesar salad. “For dinner,” she says, “we’ll have everything from a ribeye to a tomahawk. We’ve got alligator bites, alligator pasta, flatbread, but we also have our signature dishes from Mahogany Memphis, which would be our oxtails, our grits, our Cajun egg rolls, and our most popular item, beignets.”

“We do some great vegetarian dishes,” McCollough adds, including vegan pastas, barbecue, and even a vegan catfish. Future plans include opening a restaurant called Mahogany Vegan Plus.

Asked how she happened to open at the old River Terrace spot, McCullough says Carol Coletta, former president and CEO of Memphis River Parks Partnership, came by Mahogany Memphis. “She was there for an event someone had hosted. We just really started chit-chatting about that place. It was empty for quite some time. We had an interest, and it kind of became a good situation for both parties.

“It required a lot of work,” McCullough says. “No one had been in it for quite some time. Pre-Covid, actually. The front windows had to be redone. The roof had to be redone. It was really in a state of disrepair.”

McCullough brought in designer Bonnie Yates, owner of Mackiona. “Everything was beige and brown,” she says. “It’s hard to work with concrete. That’s where the challenge came in.”

“I wanted to set a mood with the river and the light coming into the room,” says Yates. “I wanted to bring the light inside. I used a lot of gold because I think gold is so rich. And I wanted to bring a dark element because I wanted it to be moody upstairs where it’s more romantic, and bring in some of the greenery to coordinate with the river.”

“It’s beautiful in the evening with the sunsets,” Yates says, adding, “It’s the best view in the city, because you have both bridges at night.”

Mahogany River Terrace (Credit: Isaac Singleton)
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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Mahogany sets the scene.

If you want to eat at the newly open Mahogany, it’s best that you make a reservation. It’s been packed since it opened on November 14th. In fact, one customer has vowed to dine in every seat to take in all the vistas. (It might take a while, as it has more than 120 seats.) It is the place to see and be seen.

Perhaps a more apt word is “scene,” as Mahogany is working a movie theme from its name to the decor and menu.

Mahogany is a nod to the movie starring Diana Ross at her (overwrought) chicest. “Rich, dark, beautiful, and rare” is how the day manager Jessica Miller defines Mahogany’s niche.

Photographs by Justin Fox Burks

Christopher Hudson, chef at the newly opened Mahogany

The restaurant is in Chickasaw Oaks Village in the old Just for Lunch and The Farmer space, near La Baguette. The ye olde country look has been ixnayed for something a bit more glamorous — modern grays, a dark bar, pretty green chairs for a touch of pizazz.

That touch extends to the menu, overseen by chef Christopher Hudson. The menu is divided into sections: the Extras (appetizers); the Props (soup and salads); the Wrangler (for kids); the Cast (entrees); the Stunts (sides); and the Finale (dessert).

The Cajun Chicken Egg Roll is among the extras, and it is extra. Hudson describes it as gumbo in an eggroll. The eggroll features okra and sausage. Another dish Hudson is proud of are the oxtails. He takes extra care with these, describing a two-day process that involves braising, then smoking. The Memphis Fried Chicken “feels like home,” says Hudson. It has buttermilk, hot sauce, oregano, and thyme.

Also on the menu are the Lasagna Roll; a Grilled Black Angus Burger; meatloaf; catfish; and salmon croquettes.

Hudson says what sets his dishes apart from other upscale Southern places is his gift with spices. He likes to use berbere and Creole spices, to work in Caribbean and African flavors.

Let’s move on the cocktail menu. Again, it’s a run through Hollywood with drinks such as the Etta James aka At Last, the Tom Jones aka Pussy Cat, and the Pam Greer aka the Foxy Brown.

The Edison aka Black Maria is a luminescent black drink. Vodka is soaked in black rice, which changes the color but not the taste, then a little pearl dust is stirred in. The Idris Elba aka American Gangster is $100 (and worth every penny, I’m guessing). It’s Remy Martin Louis XIII Cognac. The Bob Marley aka One Love is a multi-colored delight, which Miller promises will put you in a chill mood.

As for the desserts, Hudson says, “A lot of bourbon is used here.” It’s used in the Pecan Dessert Flight with Chocolate Pecan Pie, Pecan Ice Cream, and the Pecan Pie Cocktail. It’s used in Bananas Foster and the Peach Cobbler.

Mahogany is owned by Carlee M. McCullough, who is a lawyer. She recognized Hudson’s talent and wanted to showcase it, according to Miller. Hudson’s education was financially backed by Isaac Hayes. Hudson asked him if there was anything he could do for Hayes in return. Hayes’ answer? “Do great.” It’s worth noting that Hayes reached the peak in film. He won the Oscar for “Best Song” for “Shaft” in 1972.

Mahogany, 3092 Poplar, 623-7977, mahoganymemphis.com

Resilience IPA

Sierra Nevada is brewing Resilience IPA as a fund-raiser for Camp Fire Relief efforts, with 100 percent of beer sales going to the cause. The brewery has invited their cohort to get involved and have helped with donations of malt, hops, and yeast. More than 1,000 breweries nationwide have answered the call. Locally, two breweries have signed up: Crosstown Brewing and Memphis Made. The beer should be ready in a couple weeks and will be available until it runs out.

sierranevada.com/resilience-butte-county-proud-ipa