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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Memphis Chefs Personalize Barbecuing: Part 1

If you’re a Memphis chef, chances are you’ve thought about creating some kind of barbecue. Or maybe you already have.

But what would be your “signature” barbecue? Even if the idea is still in your imagination?

Tamra Patterson, chef/owner of Chef Tam’s Underground Cafe: “If Chef Tam created her style of barbecue/meat, it would be barbecue catfish stuffed with a barbecue jambalaya. No matter what I cook, I always have to infuse my love of Cajun food and Cajun culture.”

Jonathan Magallanes, chef/owner of Las Tortugas: “My style would be twice-cooked for an extra texture. First, braised like carnitas with whole orange, bay leaf, lard, lime, and green chile. Then flash-fried in peanut oil. At Tops Bar-B-Q, I ask for extra dark meat on the sandwich. That bark and meat crust is divine. Then I would use a chipotle salsa. Pork is braised in a huge copper kettle. Chipotle, cilantro, lime, and onion for garnish. I like to do the whole rack of ribs this way, or shoulder. Crispy pork is the best pork, as it accentuates and concentrates the porcine flavor.”

Mario Grisanti, owner of Dino’s Grill: “I make my own barbecue sauce, but I make it sweet. I would make a beef brisket and smoked pork barbecue lasagna with layers of meats, mozzarella cheese, etc. Thin layers of each covered in barbecue sauce.”

Chip Dunham, chef/owner of Magnolia & May: “One of my favorite barbecue dishes I’ve created is our Tacos con Mempho. I smoke my own pork shoulder for 12 hours and serve it on two corn tortillas with American cheese melted between them, avocado salsa, and tobacco onions. At brunch, we simply just add a scrambled egg and it’s a breakfast taco. Another one of my favorites was our barbecue butternut squash sandwich. We roast butternut squash and toss it with some Memphis barbecue sauce. It’s a vegan sandwich that satisfies the biggest meat-eater.”

Kelly English, chef/owner of Restaurant Iris and The Second Line: “If I were to try to put my own fingerprints on what Memphis already does perfectly, I would play around with fermentations and chili peppers. I would also explore the traditions of barbacoa in ancient Central American and surrounding societies.”

Jimmy “Sushi Jimmi” Sinh, Poke Paradise food truck owner: “I made a roll with barbecue meats a long time ago. Made with Central BBQ ribs. I made them plenty of times when I hung out with my barbecue friends. I did it in my rookie years. Inside is all rib meat topped with rib meat, barbecue crab mix, thin-sliced jalapeño, dab of sriracha, furikake, green onion.”

Armando Gagliano, Ecco on Overton Park chef/owner: “My favorite meat to smoke is pork back ribs. I keep the dry rub pretty simple: half brown sugar to a quarter adobo and a quarter salt. I smoke my ribs at 250-275 degrees using post oak wood and offset smoker. … The ribs are smoked for three hours and spritzed with orange juice and sherry vinegar every 30 minutes. After three hours, I baste with a homemade barbecue sauce that includes a lot of chipotle peppers and honey. Wrap the ribs in foil and put back on the smoker for two hours. After that, remove from the smoker and let rest in the foil for another hour. They should pull completely off the bone, but not fall apart when handled.”

FreeSol, owner of Red Bones Turkey Legs at Carolina Watershed: “I am already doing it with the turkey legs. We are smoking these legs for hours till they fall of the bone. … We [also] flavor them and stuff them.”

Ryan Trimm, chef/owner of Sunrise Memphis and 117 Prime: “Beef spare ribs are a personal favorite of mine. A nice smoke with a black pepper-based rub followed by a fruit-based sweet-and-spicy barbecue sauce is my way to go.”

And even Huey’s gets in on the act. Huey’s COO Ashley Boggs Robilio says, “Recipe created by Huey’s Midtown day crew: Huey’s world famous BBQ brisket burger. Topped with coleslaw and fried jalapeños.”

Continuing to celebrate barbecue month in Memphis, more chefs share ’que ideas in next week’s Memphis Flyer.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

FreeSol and Hi-Que are Smokin’ – Turkey Legs

FreeSol and Richard “Hi-Que” Forrest are cooking at Carolina Watershed.

But not on stage.

Free and Forrest are owners of Red Bones Turkey Legs, which is housed at the venue off South Main.

“Kind of like a constant pop-up,” Free says.

Their fall-off-the-bone turkey legs are served by themselves, or flavored with buffalo, garlic parmesan, white Alabama barbecue, or Tennessee whiskey sauces, and stuffed with dirty rice, macaroni and cheese, spinach casserole, or a mixture of all the stuffings.

“Then we top off those with Cajun Alfredo sauce,” Forrest says.

Free, lead singer of the alternative band also called FreeSol that was formerly signed to Interscope Records, got the idea to do a restaurant while living in Southern California, where he was inspired by the late rapper/entrepreneur Nipsey Hussle. “Just that connection to that Nipsey Hussle spirit. Just wanting to come back home and be a part of the community and start small businesses within the community. For me, I’ve always wanted to be in the food business in Memphis. Memphis is known for its music and its food.

“I come from a family full of cooks. My granny was an amazing chef. People would come from all over the neighborhood to eat her food every Sunday. My uncle was a pit master. He was always in Memphis in May. I think he he won a couple of awards. When I have memories of him, there’s always smoke in the air.”

Free specifically wanted to do turkey legs. “It’s the way my music is,” he says. “I wasn’t trying to make the same music everybody else was making. It’s just not my style. I didn’t want something like a wing place. I wanted to be something different.”

Turkey Leg Hut in Houston, Texas was an inspiration. Someone told him they cooked “2,900 turkey legs a day,” Free says. “This is insane. On a slow day, 2,200.

“I just became almost obsessed with that. I didn’t want to go to Houston and taste their turkey legs. I’m not trying to copy them.”

But he liked the idea of “meat falling off the bone.”

He told his idea to Andy “Kaz” Westmoreland, who works at Carolina Watershed. Kaz introduced him to Tony Westmoreland, one of the owners. “He instantly was like, ‘Man, you can use my smoker and use this place. We’ll figure out a way to make this work.’”

Free got reacquainted with Forrest, who he had met on another occasion, at Carolina Watershed. They immediately hit it off. 

“I come from a background of cooks as well,” Forrest says. “It was my dad that raised me who introduced me to the grill. I would cook hotdogs on the grill. I was about 9. And about 11 or 12, I started cooking chicken and steaks on the grill. My dad would work overtime and one day my mom said, ‘Would you fire up the grill by yourself?’ I did. And from that day I never stopped.”

Forrest later found out he had another cooking connection. “My history of cooking is really in my blood.”

His biological grandfather, Franklin Jones Sr., was “a professional cooker, pit master, out of Munford. He had his own food truck, Franklin’s BBQ.”

Franklin Sr. was known as ‘the barbecue man’ in Munford. “I’m known as ‘the barbecue man’ in Memphis.” 

Forrest, who worked on the grill for 10 years at Cozy Corner Restaurant, got to cook with his grandfather, whose style was slow. In 10 or 12 hours during holiday season at Cozy Corner, Forrest cooked “250 slabs of ribs, 28 turkeys, a couple of cases of Cornish hens, a couple of cases of chickens, and a couple of cases of wings.” He told his grandfather, “It takes 12 hours to cook one thing on your grill.

“He said, ‘Listen to me. It’s something that’s needed for your deadline. You got to cook fast.’

“That taught me an understanding of how to be versatile.”

Jonathan Kiersky, who owned Hi Tone at the time, asked Forrest to become “the official food truck at the Hi Tone” after the club moved to its first Crosstown location. He and Kiersky came up with his nickname. “He said ‘Hi.’ I said, ‘Que.’”

Forrest eventually began cooking barbecue and fresh vegetables in a smoker in front, including his smoked vegan greens, for the bands that performed at the club.

He could still be grilling into the early morning hours, Forrest says. “People would leave other clubs and pass by and see if I still had the smoker going.”

Forrest, who went on to work at Ferdinand Catering, originally met Free at a pop-up with Kaz at Sidecar Cafe. “Free was talking about doing stuffed turkey legs.”

When they met again at Carolina Watershed, Free asked him to help him with his turkey leg idea. Forrest saw “an idea that could really blossom.”

They began working on how to create the perfect smoked turkey leg. “It took us some time to figure out how to make the turkey leg the right way,” Free says. “Three or four days of cooking and two weeks of thinking about it.”

“The first thing, honestly, is it’s not pre-smoked,” Forrest says. “A lot of people buy legs that are already pre-cooked and penetrate smoke into the turkey leg. And, basically, all they do is warm it up until it falls off the bone. We take a special blend of seasonings, which is his [Free’s] mom’s dry rub, marinate it over night and do other secret things to make it tender.  Smoke it low and slow.”

Red Bones Turkey Legs is now open. They’re planning a grand opening at a later date. “I want to tie in some entertainment,” Free says. “Do some shows as well. Do some FreeSol events up there tied up with Carolina Watershed. Basically, tie music and food together. That’s what I really want to do.”

So, where does the name “Red Bone” come from? “It was my uncle Red Bone,” Free says. “He worked at WLOK and did the MLK Celebration every year in January at the Cannon Center. Everybody knew him as ‘DJ Red Bone’ and everybody called him ‘Bone.’ I called him ‘Uncle.’ And I know he just lead me through this whole process. From Kaz who lead me to Tony. He lead me to the concept of the turkey leg. He lead me to the idea of wanting to grill food and cook in Memphis. And tie it all together with music. That all comes from my Uncle Bone. From Heaven, he’s been guiding this.”

The name fits his uncle, Free says. For one thing, turkey legs are red.

His dad told him the night they opened also was Red Bone’s birthday. Free told his dad, “I know you don’t know this, but Bone has been part of this process spiritually and opened doors.”

His uncle, who was “a very big boaster,” would, of course, take credit for their turkey leg business, Free says “He thought he was the first to do everything. According to him, he was the first person to do turntables. He loved to expand on a story. Exaggerate his ass off.”

Comparing Red Bone Turkey Legs to music, Free says it’s “slow. It melts in your mouth. It’s Marvin Gaye kind of. It’s Frankie Beverly and Maze. But it also has a Pink Floyd. And it’s outside music. It’s festival music.

“It’s also sweet and smooth and sexy like Sharde. But it also hits you. It’ll get Tupac on you real quick.”

Also, Free says, “When you eat it, it brings out the beast in you. People say, ‘I can’t eat all of that.’ And you see them eat all of it. Eat the whole thing. It’s got a Biggie Smalls Fat Boy type of thing as well.”

Red Bone Turkey Legs is open from 5 p.m. until closing Thursdays through Sundays at Carolina Watershed, 141 East Carolina Avenue, (901) 207-6172

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

The scoop on Carolina Watershed and Grecian Gourmet Taverna

Eating in a grain bin sounds cold and impersonal, but, as it turns out, the Carolina Watershed is quite cozy, with a cool bomb shelter vibe. The inside has been sprayed with insulation, giving the walls a sturdy and warm concrete look. The property is composed of four grain bins. Two smaller ones make up the kitchen. The biggest, at 36 feet, is used for the main dining/bar area, and there’s another small bin outside, used as a bar.

Mac Hopper, an owner of the restaurant, says as a former farm boy, the idea of the bins appealed to him. He also notes using them is pretty dang cheap, too.

Hopper got the restaurant bug after working on Loflin Yard. He had had his eye on the Carolina site, across from apartments he owns, for quite a while. One day a sign went up, the next day he bought it.

The Carolina of Carolina Watershed is because the place in on Carolina Avenue, downtown across the street from Wayne’s Candy. Watershed is a nod to the physical attributes of the property. There was once a house there, that was demolished. The site was dug out, which gave it the appearance of a watershed, according to Hopper.

In addition to the grain bin bar, outside there’s a couple of fire pits and waterfalls, and the yard is circled overhead by a bluff that will be closed off for private parties. Side yards offer hints of future soccer and yard games.

Andy Knight

Andy Knight, formerly of Loflin Yard, serves as chef. “Southern deli — that’s what it is,” says Knight. “True Southern-style cooking involves long cook times, grilling out, smoked foods.”

One customer came in asking for his grandma, such is the style of the food, says Knight.

The menu features such true-blue sides as dilled cucumber & tomato salad, mac & cheese, black eyed peas, and buttermilk cornbread. Entrees include grilled pimento cheese with fried green tomato (!), pork belly BLT, and a terrific-looking buttermilk chicken sandwich. They also offer, like any good place wanting to show off their Southern bona fides, a fried bologna sandwich.

The restaurant has a late-night menu with a trio of burgers and loaded fries. On the cocktail menu: Jolene (Old Dominick Toddy, sweet tea, lavender lemonade), Hello Darlin (rum, lime juice, pureed corn, strawberries, hellfire bitters), and Coal Miner’s Daughter (gin, lemon juice, muddled blackberries). There’s also a brunch menu for Saturday and Sunday with French toast, short rib hash, steak and eggs, and, of course, a Southern sausage biscuit with gravy.

Carolina Watershed is thinking outside the cooker, so to speak. They will be offering — ready for it? — Carolina-style barbecue. Knight notes Memphis has plenty of barbecue places. “Ours is going to be different,” he says.

Winter hours: Monday and Tuesday 11-3 p.m.; Wednesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-midnight; Friday, 11 a.m.-2 a.m., Saturday, 9 a.m.-3 a.m.; Sunday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m.

Carolina Watershed, 141 E. Carolina (321-5553)

Jeff Watkins met JoBeth in the ninth grade. Their paths separated for 35 years, until they met up again by chance in the Atlanta airport.

The Watkins have since married and pledged to find something to do together in their retirement. (Aw!) “We like spending time together,” says Jeff. That thing is the Grecian Gourmet Taverna, to be located at 412 South Main. They already have a head start, selling their Grecian Gourmet dips, desserts, and take-and-bake dishes at local farmer markets and area grocery stores.

Right now, work is being done on the space, which is next door to Art Village. The space is pretty — light floors, punched tin tiles on the ceiling. They plan to add a trio of coolers, an awning to cover the patio, raised seating at the window for people watching. There will be a huge chalkboard menu board and food art like paintings of eggplants and arugula.

They will follow a fast-casual plan, with ordering at the counter, which includes bar orders. Jeff envisions the Grecian Gourmet as a European street cafe sort of space. He sees diners getting a carafe of wine and relaxing on the patio.

The menu is JoBeth’s domain. Right now, it features the classics — Spanakopita, Moussaka, Pastitso, Dolmathes, Lamb Sliders, and gyros. Sides include Tabbouleh, Greek and cucumber salads, plus there’s Baklava for dessert. The coolers will contain grab-and-go items.

At the beginning, they’ll be open for lunch and dinner, with roughly the same menu and Sundays reserved for specials. JoBeth sees her special spatchcocked chicken, Grecian platters, and Lamb Paschou on the Sunday menu. Eventually, they’ll offer breakfast with homemade Greek yogurt.

The Watkins feel like they’ll be filling a need for a good Greek place. “We felt we developed a niche,” Jeff says. “We dreamed of having a place like this.”

Soft opening for Grecian Gourmet begins February 15th, with a grand opening set for March 10th.

Grecian Gourmet Taverna will be open 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., Tuesday through Sunday.

Grecian Gourmet Taverna, 412 S. Main