Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Craig David Meek Writes the Book on Memphis BBQ

Craig David Meek is a former journalist, who’s been chronicling his quest to try every soul food and barbecue restaurant in the area on his blog Memphis Que.

Craig David Meek

  • Craig David Meek

The blog caught the eye of an editor at the History Press, with the result being Meek’s excellent Memphis Barbecue: A Succulent History of Smoke, Sauce & Soul.

The book begins with Hernando de Soto introducing pigs to the region and covers everything from such old-time Memphis favorites like Brady and Lil’s and the barbecue contest to Corky’s on QVC. There are some amazing moments in Memphis Barbecue — like Jim Neely speaking quite frankly about his TV celebrity nephew Pat Neely and John Willingham’s widow remembering the barbecue legend’s last day.

Memphis Barbecue will be released on Tuesday, June 10th, and there will be a launch party and signing at the Booksellers at Laurelwood that same day at 6 p.m. Related events include the Whole Hog BBQ, Live Music & Book Party at the Hi-Tone on Friday, June 27th and a book talk and signing with a barbecue tasting at the Cotton Museum Thursday, July 10th.

Meek took some to time answer questions about writing the book.

Writing the history of barbecue seems like a massive and daunting task. How did you figure out how to organize the book?
Meek: By writing a first draft that was a rambling mess, then going back through and putting everything in a more chronological order. I originally tried to organize it around different aspects of barbecue I considered important like craftsmanship, business, and tradition with different restaurants and competition teams used to represent different components of each aspect. It ended up reading like the world’s most disorganized barbecue restaurant guide, but reading over it I saw that I had the entire history of Memphis there if I reorganized it into the story of the city told through barbecue.

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You’ve been blogging about barbecue for three years, in working on this book, did you come upon anything that truly surprised you?
Looking into the history of William’s Bar-B-Q across the river in West Memphis and realizing how important the neighborhood around it was to the development of the electric blues and early rock-and-roll in the ’40s through the ’60s. That was the vibrant, late-night music scene where the early Sun artists really honed their skills during a period when the nightlife and music scene on Beale Street was surprisingly dead.

What was your favorite part about writing the book?
Since the blog was always done anonymously, with me just coming in as an average Joe and eating, I loved gathering the oral histories that went into the book. Going into the kitchens with people like Jim Neely at Interstate, Barry Pelts at Corky’s, Eric Vernon at the Bar-B-Q Shop, Craig Blondis at Central, and Helen Turner at Helen’s over in Brownsville and hearing their stories and letting them show me the work that goes into their food. Standing behind the counter with Flora Payne while she makes a spicy jumbo sandwich for me. Going down to the basement at Coletta’s to see the shoulders on the pit, then up to the kitchen to watch them make a fresh barbecue pizza and carrying that pizza straight to their Elvis room to eat it.

You very judiciously sidestep the question of your favorite barbecue places by saying it depends on the day, your mood, the weather, etc. Come on, man. You must have two or three places you frequent more than others. Spill it.
The Tops on Jackson Avenue is a few blocks from my house so their double cheeseburger with everything topped with two ounces of chopped pork would represent my most frequent barbecue order and it is a thing of savage beauty.

But really, I am in a different part of the Mid-South almost every day with my job, so I tend to have a favorite place to stop for each part of town. But even that gets hard to nail down. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been in the Fox Meadows/Hickory Hill area staring at my windshield, holding my keys, way overthinking the decision between a dry rib dinner from Leonard’s and a shoulder plate from Showboat. I know either will be perfect, but choosing one means missing out on the other that day. I’ve literally flipped a coin on multiple occasions.

Categories
News News Blog

SantaCon is Coming to Memphis Saturday

SantaCon in New York City

  • SantaCon in New York City

If anyone hasn’t quite exhumed their Christmas spirit yet this year, the holiday-themed and adults-only SantaCon, a rally of Santas landing in downtown Memphis on Saturday, might be the celebration to revive it. This will be the Bluff City’s first year for the event, which was founded in 1994 in San Francisco. Participants are required to dress up like Santa and address other participants as such, all while consuming alcoholic beverages at various locations. According to the original SantaCon organizers, Father Christmas partakers are also encouraged to bring gifts to give to strangers along the route.

SantaCon starts at noon at the Central BBQ on Butler Avenue, after which the participants will march towards Beale Street by 1 p.m. Four checkpoints in the area are Tater Red’s at 2 p.m., Coyote Ugly at 3 p.m., Hooter’s at 5 p.m., and finally, the Elvis statue in front of the MLGW building at 7 p.m.

More information for the Memphis event, including guidelines and a songbook of “Twisted SantaCon Carols,” is located on the SantaCon website.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Bar Guide

Alchemy

Game Days at Alchemy Memphis: Happy Hour with $1 off domestic beers and discounts on featured items from our specialty cocktail list. The game isn’t over until we say it is!

940 S. Cooper • 726-4444 alchemymemphis.com

Bardog Tavern

Ignore the cold in our cozy downtown bar, but don’t ignore the cold beer! $2.50 Buds and Bud Lights, $3 Yuengling drafts during every Tiger and Grizzlies game. The sound is on on the upstairs and downstairs TVs, including the 60-inch HDTV in the Underdog Room. Open for those brunch games starting at 11 a.m., Saturdays and Sundays.

73 Monroe • 275-8752 • bardog.com

Belle Diner 

Looking for a great new place to eat and have drinks before the game? Look no further than one of downtown’s newest restaurants, Belle Diner. With decades of bringing Memphis great food, the team of Roger Sapp, David Johnson, and Joe Ferguson have teamed up to bring an upscale Southern diner to downtown Memphis. Come in Game Day and try any appetizer prepared by Chef Johnson for only $8 and $1 off all drinks.

117 Union • 433-9851 facebook.com/BelleDinerMemphisTN

Blind Bear Speakeasy

Game Day specials start one hour before and last throughout every Griz and Tiger game: $2.50 Miller Lite, Miller High Life, and Coors Light bottles and $4 24-oz. Coors Light Griz cans! While you’re here, check out the new menus by Chef David Scott Walker, and be sure to mark your calendar for Bean’s Birthday Bash on October 25th and our Halloween Party on October 31st.

119 S. Main • 417-8435 blindbearmemphis.com

Celtic Crossing

Join us Monday nights at Celtic Crossing for the ultimate Game Day, featuring football, giant board games (Jenga, Cards Against Humanity, and lots more), and beer. Beginning Mondays at 5 p.m., all drafts are just $3.

903 S. Cooper • 274-5151 celticcrossingmemphis.com

Central BBQ

When Memphians want great barbecue and fun times, they head to their nearest Central BBQ location. Before Tiger and Grizzlies home games, visit the newest location just minutes away from the Forum and try one of our many draft beers featuring local microbreweries. For away games, come celebrate with other fans at the Summer or downtown locations, where there are plenty of large HDTVs.

4375 Summer • 767-4672


147 E. Butler • 672-7760


2249 Central • 272-9377


cbqmemphis.com

The Cove

The Cove offers too vast an array of expertly hand-crafted cocktails to single out just one as our “signature” concoction, but Town & CountrySouthern Living, and Urban Spoon proclaim our authentic Sazerac as the perfect accompaniment to a sultry summer evening. For more outstanding cocktail options, see thecovememphis.com. Come by the Cove after games for the best late-night eats and treats! 

2559 Broad • 730-0719


thecovememphis.com

Dan McGuinness

Dan McGuinness is your Game Day HQ with great specials for both college and pros: $3 pints and $9 pitchers of McGuinness Pub Ale, $11 buckets of longnecks. On Mondays, it’s 2-for-1 domestic beers and $3.95 burgers and fries.

4698 Spottswood • 761-3711 danmcguinnesspub.com

Dejavu Restaurant

Let the good times roll before and after Grizzlies and Tiger basketball games! The newest location at 51 S. Main is four minutes from FedExForum and is filled with all the extras you would expect in New Orleans. Check out the new bar and try some award-winning soul food and vegan/vegetarian cuisine. 

51 S. Main • 505-0212


dejavurestaurant.org 

Happy Mexican

Join us before, after, or during the game to watch with us! Happy Mexican has a Happy Hour for its award-winning margaritas Tuesday through Sunday 3 to 7 p.m. on the lime flavor only. Special pricing includes small for $4.25, medium for $6.99, or large for $8.99.

385 S. Second • 529-9991


6080 Primacy Parkway • 683-0000


7935 Winchester • 751-5353


happymexican.com

Hard Rock Café Memphis

Stop by Hard Rock Café Memphis on Friday Game Days for a Hard Rocking Happy Hour! Now featuring a new Happy Hour every Friday from 4 to 7 p.m. with a special “Bar Bites” menu. $2 domestic drafts; $3 import drafts; and $4 margaritas (bar area only).

315 Beale • 529-0007

Local Gastropub

Local has specials going on just about whenever there’s a game to watch. Happy Hour is Monday through Friday 4 to 7 p.m. Game Day specials run Monday (starting at 6:30 p.m.), Saturday (11 a.m.-6:30 p.m.), and Sunday (11 a.m.-11 p.m.) and include domestic beer buckets, five for $10, $25 table taps of draft, and small-plate food specials. Tuesday is half-off bottles of wine from 7 to 11 p.m. Wednesday is Pint Night with $2 off pints. Thursday is Ladies Night with $5 “tini’s” and tier-one wines. Join us Sunday for late-night Happy Hour starting at 11:30 p.m.

95 Main • 473-9573


2126 Madison in Overton Square


725-1845 • localgastropub.com

Los Comales Mexican Restaurant

Watch the game while enjoying our authentic Mexican food and unique drinks. Buy one margarita and get a second half-off every Monday and Thursday, and get $5 off any order over $20 when you mention our ad in the Flyer!

2860 S. Perkins • 369-0528 loscomalesrestaurant.com

Molly’s La Casita

Molly’s has the ultimate Game Day drink. It’s our first-place award-winning margarita (Memphis Flyer readers poll 2013). Be sure to try our new low-calorie Nectar Girl Margarita if you are trying to watch your darling figure. Molly’s has an ice-cold one ready for you that is sure to please.

2006 Madison • 726-1873 mollyslacasita.com

Mulan Asian Bistro

Sports and sushi are a great combination! Enjoy Mulan Asian Bistro’s Happy Hour for sushi and drinks from 3 to 6 p.m. daily. Try the Mulan Martini for only $7.95.

2149 Young • 347-3965


2059 S. Houston Levee • 850-5288


mulanbistro.net

Newby’s

Newby’s has all your Game Day specials. Monday is Ghost River $10 Beer Bust. On Tuesday, we have $2 burgers and beer. On Whiskey Wednesdays, it’s $3 whiskey drinks. The Always Happy Hour is $1 off bottle beers and mixed drinks every day ’til 9 p.m. Start early and stay late at Newby’s.

535 S. Highland • 452-8408 newbysmemphis.com

Paula and Raiford’s Disco

Come party after the game at Memphis’ best dance club! Paula and Raiford’s Disco is your one-stop shop for fun in downtown Memphis. Enjoy music, drinks, and dancing every Friday and Saturday night just minutes from FedExForum.

14 S. Second • 521-2494


paularaifords.com

Pearl’s Oyster House

Come watch the game with us! Happy Hour is Monday through Friday, 4 to 7 p.m. There are daily draft beer specials as well. Try the famous chargrilled oysters, only $1 each on Wednesdays. Pearl’s also features daily fresh fish specials and free parking too.

299 S. Main • 522-9070 pearlsoysterhouse.com

The Pumping Station

We have just the right stuff to enjoy your games every week. Friday Beer Busts: $3, Ghost River and Blue Moon $8. Sunday Beer Busts: PBR $5 and Ghost River and Blue Moon $9. Happy Hour specials all week long.

1382 Poplar • 272-7600 pumpingstationmemphis.com

The Slider Inn

Wow! During every Tiger and Grizzlies game, get your Bud and Bud Light longnecks for only $2.50. Come enjoy our great atmosphere and our heated deck this winter, complete with outdoor TV. It’s perfect for catching up with your Midtown friends. Who loves you, baby? We do.

2117 Peabody • 725-1155


thesliderinn.com

Tamp & Tap

Offering hand-poured coffees, sandwiches, and local beers all close to FedExForum, Tamp & Tap gives Game Day specials of 10 percent off your food purchase with the same-day ticket or stub.

122 Gayoso (Second and Main)


207-1053 • tampandtap.com

facebook.com/TampTap @tampandtap on Twitter

Categories
Cover Feature News

Barbecurious!

Memphis has long been host to the biggest barbecue act around — balancing gritty kitchen smarts with a sweet disposition and a slow-cooking way of life.

No doubt you’ve seen the main event: pork ribs crusted with salty, spicy rub and doused with sweet, smoky sauce; sandwiches piled high with tender pulled pork, dripping with tangy sauce and creamy slaw.

But there are other attractions in town — some you won’t find in a typical tourist guide or brochure. The fact is, Memphians will barbecue just about anything. Read on for a peek at some of Memphis’ uniquely delicious twists on barbecue basics. From cultural crossovers to barbecue beer — behold, the barbecuriosities!

Korean Barbecue at DWJ Korean Grill and Sushi Bar

Memphis barbecue purists probably won’t allow that what DWJ Korean Grill and Sushi Bar serves is actually barbecue. DWJ’s ‘cue is cooked over a gas flame right at your table — no wood or charcoal involved — and for some sticklers, that’s a deal-breaker. But when it comes to flavor and spice, Korean barbecue, like the best Memphis-style preparations, really delivers.

Barbecue pork bellies — which should really appeal to pig-centric Memphians — come to the table coated in a flavorful red chili sauce and laden with mushrooms and onions. DWJ’s barbecue short ribs are thinly sliced and not nearly as sweet as Korean ribs can be, which is a good thing. Lightly marinated in minced garlic and sesame oil, the ribs are served with plenty of condiments and can be piled onto lettuce leaves with a blob of rice, a schmear of bean paste, some fresh green chili slices, and thinly shaved chunks of garlic and eaten like a wrap. Too much fuss? Just grab your chopsticks and eat them right off the grill. — Chris Davis

DWJ Korean Grill and Sushi Bar, 3750 Hacks Cross, 746-8057

Lamb Riblets at the Rendezvous

This is counterprogramming at its finest. Who on earth would go to the world-famous Rendezvous and order lamb? I would and did. The serving consists of six or seven chunky, two-rib sections coated with Rendezvous dry rub. The lamb meat is much thicker than the Rendezvous’ pork ribs — plump, even — and pulls off the bone easily. It’s got a fine, tender, chewy consistency with a slight, lamb-y aftertaste. I added Rendezvous sauce to the rub and greatly enjoyed these off-the-beaten-path riblets.

The price is $18.75, the same as a full order of pork ribs, and the lamb riblets come with the same sides: slaw, beans, and a roll. I can eat a full order of pork ribs, but I couldn’t finish these — too much meat for one sitting. So, I took some home to enjoy the next day. Verdict: not baaahed at all. — Bruce VanWyngarden

Charlie Vergos’ Rendezvous,

52 South Second, 523-2746

Char-Grilled Oysters at Pearl’s Oyster House

Fishermen scour the rocky coastline and sandy ocean floor to bring these pale, watery creatures to Memphis, so Memphis does what we do best: We barbecue them.

I’m not a great oyster aficionado, but I love the char-grilled oysters at Pearl’s. And what’s not to love? Oysters on the half-shell are sauced with a tangy, barbecuey, chipotle-garlic blend, then sprinkled with shaved Parmesan cheese. The little morsels are then shoved under a charbroiler long enough that the cheese gets browned to a chewy, crispy texture and the sauce is bubbling. A half-dozen, served on a rock-salt platter with a little spinach, also crispy and grilled, will set you back $9.99. But go for a dozen at $19.99. It’s seafood — how bad for you can it be? And these things are delicious. — Bruce VanWyngarden

Pearl’s Oyster House, 299 South Main, 522-9070

Cornish Game Hen at Cozy Corner

For 30 years, Cozy Corner, a tiny barbecue shack on North Parkway just east of Danny Thomas, has done things just a little bit differently from Memphis’ other pig palaces. Take, for instance, the most perfect thing on Cozy Corner’s menu: the barbecued Cornish game hen. So what if Cornish hens aren’t exotic game birds? And who cares if they aren’t always hens? These young chickens are Cozy Corner’s elegant, personal-sized twist on good old-fashioned barbecue chicken.

The Corner’s hens are cooked dry with a tasty spice rub until the skin is a beautiful mahogany color and the rich, smoky flavor goes all the way to the bone. They are served wet, with a thin, sweet-and-sour sauce that can be ordered mild or spicy but which might be more correctly labeled spicy and spicier. At $11 without sides, it may seem a little pricey, but it’s worth every penny. — Chris Davis

Cozy Corner, 745 North Parkway, 527-9158

BBQ Beer at Jack Magoo’s

While beer cocktails may be considered eclectic to the light-beer-drinkin’ masses, they’re not terribly uncommon. The British black and tan — half pale ale, half porter or stout — and the German Radler — half pilsner, half lemonade or soda — started showing up in pubs and biergardens close to a century ago and deserve their place in the world of beer. But the skeptics aren’t completely off the mark, with drinks like Jack Magoo’s BBQ beer out there.

A mix of Bud Light, Bloody Mary mix, Cattleman’s BBQ sauce, and olives garnishing, BBQ beer tastes more like a Bloody Mary than anything else. Its tomato, Worcestershire sauce, and peppery heat mixed with subtle, sweet barbecue notes make for a compelling combination. For those of you who enjoy a good Bloody Mary but are looking for an interesting take on the cocktail, this might be right up your alley — especially at a mere $2. — Andrew Caldwell

Jack Magoo’s Sports Bar and Grill, 2583 Broad, 746-9612

BBQ Tofu Burrito at R.P. Tracks

R.P. Tracks claims its barbecue tofu is “world famous.” And while international prominence might be a stretch, their deep-fried, ‘cue-covered bean curd is at least locally famous. It’s perhaps best known for its starring role in Tracks’ BBQ Tofu Nachos (tofu, black beans, tomatoes, cheese, and sour cream atop a bed of seasoned tortilla chips). But the BBQ Tofu Burrito may actually be the best tofu-to-mouth delivery method. The same toppings from those nachos are stuffed into a massive tortilla wrap (available in a white flour, wheat, sun-dried tomato basil, or spinach tortilla) topped with cheese (optional for vegans) and black olives. It’s a little hefty for lifting, so a fork (and maybe a to-go box) is recommended. Of course, you won’t miss out on those perfectly seasoned chips by skipping out on nachos. They’re served as a side item with Tracks’ signature garlicky tomato salsa. — Bianca Phillips

R.P. Tracks, 3547 Walker, 327-1471

Barbecue Brunswick Stew at the Germantown Commissary

Brunswick stew being served at a barbecue joint may only be considered sideshow in Memphis, the Mid-South, and the Delta. But in many other barbecue capitals in the South, Brunswick stew topped with pulled pork is a staple. Its recipe varies, and where the stew originated is up for debate, with folks from Georgia, Virginia, and North Carolina vying for the honor.

The hearty soup offered at the Germantown Commissary comes chock-a-block full of stewed tomatoes, green beans, corn, and lima beans, and the restaurant’s signature hickory-smoked pulled pork makes a big island in the middle. You can get a bowl for $5.50 — a generous portion that’s a meal — or as a side dish for $2.50. Crumble in some of the slab of cornbread provided to lend some sweetness to the spicy endeavor. — Greg Akers

The Germantown Commissary, 2290 Germantown Road, 754-5540

The Original Barbecue Pizza at Coletta’s

Eating barbecue pizza in the “Elvis Room” at the original Coletta’s on South Parkway is a singular Memphis experience. The “we can turn anything into barbecue” ethos we celebrate in this issue was arguably born in second-generation owner Horest Coletta’s kitchen in the 1950s. The basic concept — a sturdy, medium-crust cheese pizza topped with smoked pork and barbecue sauce — has become fairly common, especially with chicken, and has probably been improved on. But this where it began. And the atmosphere can’t be beat. The wood paneling and checkerboard tablecloths transport you back to the era of the barbecue pizza’s creation, while the Elvis paraphernalia framed along the walls — which includes the front page of The Commercial Appeal from the day after his death and appears as if it’s been unchanged for decades — pays proper tribute to a former regular who may himself have been among the first to savor this quintessentially Memphis creation. — Chris Herrington

Coletta’s, 1063 South Parkway, 948-7652

Barbecue Portobello Sandwich at Central BBQ

In the beginning there was tofu.

Central BBQ, which recently celebrated its 10th anniversary and is on the verge of opening a third location, has well established that barbecue is indeed central with its award-winning ribs, pulled pork sandwiches, and hot wings. From the start, says owner Craig Blondis, they knew they wanted to offer diners a vegetarian option. They tried a barbecue tofu sandwich, but they couldn’t figure out how to keep the tofu from falling apart, so they switched to the heartier Portobello mushroom.

The Portobello is marinated in a mix of olive oil, balsamic vinegar, oregano, thyme, and garlic and then grilled. The sandwich is topped with smoked Gouda, slaw, and the restaurant’s mild barbecue sauce.

Blondis estimates that he sells 30 to 40 of the sandwiches each week. And while he notes that he’s had customers request that the barbecue Portobello sandwich be topped with pork, he says that this one’s for the vegetarians: “It’s for people who don’t eat meat to take part in the experience.” — Susan Ellis

Central BBQ, 2249 Central, 272-9377

BBQ Spaghetti at The Bar-B-Q Shop

If you’re from Memphis, chances are you’re quite familiar with barbecue spaghetti. But outside the Mid-South, this spin on the standard spaghetti side dish is a true novelty. You might think barbecue spaghetti would be a simple concept, merely replacing a traditional Bolognese sauce with barbecue sauce and smoked pork. But, at the BBQ Shop at least, it’s not that simple.

“People think it’s just our sauce and oil,” owner Eric Vernon says, “but it’s not.” Rather, at the Vernon family’s Midtown institution, cooked spaghetti is finished off in a base that’s considerably sweeter than the Shop’s tart sauce and then mixed with an au jus left over from the cooked pork. This infuses the pasta itself with a smoky, sweet flavor entirely unlike the restaurant’s Dancing Pigs sauce, which is added to the top along with a pile of chopped pork. A personal confession: For about three or four bites, I think this is one of the best things ever. But I find it almost too intense for further consumption. It’s perfect for a side. Others have the stamina to make a meal of it. — Chris Herrington

The Bar-B-Q Shop, 1782 Madison, 272-1277

24th Annual ASBEE Kosher BBQ Contest

While the annual Memphis in May barbecue festival was gaining its current international reputation, a parallel local event has also landed a place for itself on the festival map. This one, the annual ASBEE Kosher BBQ Contest, on the sprawling East Memphis grounds of the Anshei Sphard Beth El Emeth Congregation, is held in the fall — at just about that time (October 21st, this year) when fond gustatory memories of the barbecue festival itself may have faded.

Which is to say, the ASBEE event (“the world’s largest,” and maybe the only one of its kind, say the sponsors), while it is genuinely kosher — in that no pork products are served and other dietary restrictions are observed — is open to everyone. As the proprietors put it, “You don’t have to be Jewish or kosher to join us!” 

Competition is usually in three categories, brisket and ribs and beans (yes, beans), with chicken recipes sometimes admitted. Radio legend and longtime Elvis bud George Klein is the emcee, and local celebrities, both Jewish and non-Jewish, serve as judges. A basketball tournament, a pickle-eating contest, and train rides and other frolics for the kiddies complement the eats. Nosh away! — Jackson Baker

1st Annual Cochon Heritage BBQ

When Cochon 555, a sui generis (dare we say, sooey generis?) swine-wine-and-dine event made its first stop in Memphis this year, foodies were beside themselves with joy. So when Cochon founder Brady Lowe announced that the inaugural Cochon Heritage BBQ event would be held in Memphis, we nearly swooned. This Labor Day, chefs, farmers, distillers, wine-makers, and pig-lovers will come together (at a location to be determined) to celebrate the union of heritage pork and whiskey for National Bourbon Month. Tastings, demonstrations, and some good old-fashioned competition will keep festivalgoers entertained while they stuff themselves to the gills with whiskey and pork. Above all, the event is dedicated to bringing heritage breed hogs back into the tradition of barbecue in one of the world’s biggest barbecue cities. — Hannah Sayle

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Chef’s Salad at Central BBQ

bbqsalad.jpg

  • Justin Fox Burks

I would normally say that walking into a barbecue restaurant in Memphis and ordering a salad is a major faux pas, but I am in love with the versatile chef’s salad at Central BBQ.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Pigs Fly!

pigsfly.jpg

These massive holiday pig lights are hanging outside of Central BBQ in Midtown.

Categories
Best of Memphis Special Sections

Best of Food & Drink

Alex Harrison

Buttery tikka masala, tender tandoori, spicy vegetable dishes, and all other manner of Indian specialties are served at Midtown institution India Palace in its airy, comfortable Poplar Avenue location.

We’ll admit we find it adorable when, in the “Best Chef” category,
you write in “My Wife,” “My Husband,” or, better yet, “My Mom.” (The
answer “Your Mom’s House” for “Best Romantic Restaurant” is not so
cute.) Chef Boyardee didn’t stand a chance with only two votes for
“Best Chef,” but at least he’s got bragging rights over Mrs. Winner
who, despite the name and the chicken and biscuits, got only one
vote.

Justin Fox Burks

Kelly English, Restaurant Iris, 1st place: ‘Best Chef’

Best Chef

1. Kelly English, Restaurant Iris

2. Erling Jensen, Erling Jensen the Restaurant

3. John Bragg, Circa

Last October, Food & Wine magazine named Kelly English
one of the Top 10 “Best New Chefs” for 2009. That was quite the honor.
Now Flyer readers have vaulted English to the top spot for the
first time.

Best Lunch

1. Huey’s

2. Soul Fish

3. Lenny’s

Hey, you know all those other restaurants that were in the running
for “Best Lunch” in Memphis? Stick a toothpick in ’em. They’re done.
Huey’s gets the nod for lunch nosh this year.

Best Breakfast

1. Brother Juniper’s

2. Blue Plate Cafe

3. Bryant’s Breakfast

Oh Brother, Wherefore Art Chow? Sorry. Brother J. has won “Best
Breakfast” many times, and it’s because they offer delicious,
innovative, homemade food in an eclectic space crammed with interesting
people, especially on weekend mornings.

Best Romantic Restaurant

1. Paulette’s

2. Le Chardonnay Wine Bar & Bistro

3. The Melting Pot

Maybe it’s the desserts. Or maybe the soft tinkling of the ivories.
Or maybe just the wonderful menu, nice wine list, and warm ambience.
Paulette’s is a classic.

Best Sunday Brunch

1. Owen Brennan’s Restaurant

2. Boscos Squared

3. Peabody Skyway — tie

Beauty Shop

Owen Brennan’s sits at the cusp of Germantown and East Memphis, but
it draws Memphians from all over for its New Orleans-themed Sunday
brunch: the best in town for 2009.

Best Wine List

1. Le Chardonnay Wine Bar & Bistro

2. Texas de Brazil

3. Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse

Le Chardonnay moved across Madison Avenue a couple years ago, but it
has retained its dark, ski-lodge-y charm, its extensive wine list, and
first place for “Best Wine List” in your hearts.

Best Steak

1. Folk’s Folly Prime Steak House

2. Ruth’s Chris Steak House

3. The Butcher Shop

Folk’s Folly valets meet you at the curb. Once inside, you hear
sweet piano-bar stylings and the sound of cold drinks and cocktail
chatter. But who are we kidding? It’s all about the steak here, and
Folk’s Folly’s steaks sizzle!

Best Barbecue

1. Central BBQ

2. Corky’s

3. The Bar-B-Q Shop

Central BBQ takes top honor in what is probably the toughest
category in this poll: “Best Barbecue.” No matter how you spell it
— barbecue, BBQ, Bar-B-Q, whatever — Central’s on top
again.

Best Ribs

1. Charles Vergos’ Rendezvous

2. Central BBQ

3. Corky’s

The Rendezvous is sometimes derided as a place where tourists go to
eat Memphis’ most famous food group (16 barbecued ribs), but the
Flyer‘s poll makes it clear that locals love the Rendezvous as
much as people wearing Elvis T-shirts. And well they should.

Best Burger

BOM 1. Huey’s

2. Earnestine & Hazel’s

3. The Belmont Grill

That “BOM” designation means Huey’s has won “Best Burger” for so
long that it’s not even fair to anybody else in the running. Lots of
places in Memphis make good burgers, but only one takes the top spot,
year after year after year.

Best Hot Wings

1. Buffalo Wild Wings

2. D’Bo’s Buffalo Wings-n-Things

3. Central BBQ

With five Memphis-area locations, 14 sauces (ranging in heat from
“Blazin'” to “Sweet Barbecue”), and TVs set to sports everywhere you
look, Buffalo Wild Wings is leading the city’s wing scene.

Best Fried Chicken

BOM 1. Gus’s Fried Chicken

2. Popeye’s Chicken & Biscuits

3. Jack Pirtle Fried Chicken

If you want to eat lunch at Gus’s, you’d better get there early.
Folks line up for the crispy, smoky, spicy uniqueness that makes Gus’s
fried chicken better than anybody’s in Memphis. Or in the world.

Best Cajun/Creole

1. Bayou Bar & Grill

2. Owen Brennan’s Restaurant

3. Pearl’s Oyster House

The Bayou, like its sister restaurant, Le Chardonnay, hasn’t missed
a beat by moving across Madison. It’s bigger, but it still has a nice
patio, cold beer, stellar gumbo, and lots of other Cajun
delectables.

Justin Fox Burks

Petra, 1st place: ‘Best Mediterranean’

Best Mediterranean

1. Petra

2. Casa Grill

3. Petra Cafe

What’s more Midtown than this: Greek-Korean fusion in a restaurant
housed in a former gas station/garage, with patio seating right next to
the pumps? Spanikopita, moussaka, falafel — Petra is Greek
delicious. And the Korean soups and kimchi are fabulous too.

Best Dessert

1. Paulette’s

2. Beauty Shop

3. Kooky Canuck

Restaurants come and go, but Paulette’s “K-Pie” is a constant. Rich
coffee ice cream in a pecan-coconut crust, topped with whipped cream
and Kahlua, the Midtown institution’s Kahlua-mocha parfait pie is a
classic but not their most popular dessert. That designation apparently
belongs to the restaurant’s hot chocolate crepe. With crème
brûlée, Key lime pie, and other desserts dotting the menu,
Paulette’s is where Memphians go for post-dinner sweets.

Best Italian

1. Ronnie Grisanti & Sons Restaurant (now closed)

2. Pete & Sam’s

3. Bari — tie —

Ciao Bella Italian Grill

Long synonymous with Italian dining in Memphis, Ronnie Grisanti’s
closed its doors in August after a 25-year run at its Chickasaw Oaks
Plaza location on Poplar. But Memphians won’t be without the Grisanti
family’s authentic Tuscan cuisine, which has delighted local diners for
generations. Most of the restaurant’s staff — including Ronnie
himself — will relocate to the family’s Germantown location,
Elfo’s, which will be renamed simply Grisanti’s.

Best Mexican

1. El Porton Mexican Restaurant

2. Happy Mexican

3. Taqueria La Guadalupana

In an increasingly saturated local Mexican food scene, El Porton
maintains the top spot with five area locations, quick, reasonably
price lunches, a diverse menu, a full bar, and happy-hour specials.

Best Chinese

1. P.F. Chang’s

2. Wang’s Mandarin House

3. A-Tan

National chain P.F. Chang’s became a big local hit when it opened
its lone Memphis location — on Ridgeway in East Memphis — a
few years ago. In P.F. Chang’s large, opulent dining room, patrons can
feast on a diverse array of Chinese classics such as Mongolian beef,
ginger chicken, and spicy dumplings.

Best Thai

1. Bhan Thai

2. Bangkok Alley

3. Jasmine

Located in a large, converted Midtown house (the former home of
restaurant Maison Raji), Bhan Thai offers intensely flavorful Thai
dishes — masaman curry, pad thai, crispy duck, coconut-milk-based
soups, etc. — in an elegant atmosphere full of character, from
its small, intimate dining rooms to its popular patio in the back.

Best Vietnamese

1. Saigon Le

2. Pho Saigon

3. Pho Hoa Binh

This no-frills Midtown eatery has a loyal clientele because of its
focus on the food, which includes authentic Vietnamese specialties
— fresh spring rolls, great pho soups, vermicelli and tofu
dishes, and plenty of vegetarian options.

Best Japanese/Sushi

1. Sekisui

2. Blue Fin

3. Sekisui Pacific Rim

Restaurateur Jimmy Ishii has come to define Japanese cuisine, and
particularly sushi, in Memphis. The local chain is celebrating its 20th
birthday this year, first opening its Humphreys Center flagship
restaurant in 1989 and now covering the city with five locations.

Justin Fox Burks

Soul Fish, 1st place: ‘Best Home Cooking / Soul Food’

Best Home Cooking/Soul Food

1. Soul Fish

2. The Cupboard

3. Blue Plate Café

For exquisite catfish and hush puppies and a big daily selection of
veggies, it’s hard to order anything else off of Soul Fish’s menu. But
try their smoked half-chicken, and you’ll be doubling up on meals to
satisfy all your menu urges.

Best Vegetarian

BOM 1. Whole Foods Market

2. The Cupboard

3. Jasmine

Whole Foods Market, a foodie oasis on Poplar Avenue in East Memphis,
is more than a grocery store. Its large prepared-foods section —
pizzas, sandwiches, salad bar, bakery, coffee and juice bar — and
dining area make it a popular lunch and dinner spot for vegetarians and
health-food enthusiasts, in particular. Whole Foods also offers cooking
classes to help you find interesting things to do with the fresh and
healthy items they sell.

Best Seafood

1. Tsunami

2. Bonefish

3. The Half Shell

The anchor restaurant of Cooper-Young does it again, taking “Best
Seafood” for the millionth year in a row. Scallops, sea bass, mussels,
you name it, Chef Ben Smith and crew deliver a ship full of great taste
in a sophisticated atmosphere.

Best Pizza

BOM 1. Memphis Pizza Cafe

2. Garibaldi’s Pizza

3. Old Venice

Memphis Pizza Café was an instant hit when it opened in 1993
and has since expanded its local pizza empire to five locations, all
serving tasty, crispy pizzas, including such faves as the white-sauce
“alternative” and the zesty Cajun chicken.

Best Deli

1. Fino’s from the Hill

2. Bogie’s Delicatessen

3. Young Avenue Deli

What says Midtown more than the intersection of Madison and McLean?
And what says a great deli sandwich better than Fino’s from the Hill,
on that very Midtown corner? In addition to the popular made-to-order
sandwiches — cold cuts, cheeses, toppings, all on good crusty
bread — Fino’s offers pasta dishes and grocery items. That’s
Italian!

Best Server

1. Jeff Frisby, Restaurant Iris

2. Michele Fields, Calhoun’s Sports Bar

3. Jean Pruett, Bardog — tie

Brent Skelton, The Kitchen

Jeff Frisby at Restaurant Iris must be doing something right. Last
year, he was named one of the city’s best servers in our Best Of poll.
This year, he’s done it again. Must be that Frisby knows not only how
to serve, he knows what to serve when it comes to vino: He’s Restaurant
Iris’ wine manager. (Factoid: All our winners in this category work in
Memphis’ new or newish restaurant/bars. Good to see Flyer
readers appreciate the city’s evolving food scene.)

Best Service

1. Chick-Fil-A

2. Texas de Brazil

3. Houston’s

Drive-thru or in-store, the crew behind the counter at any of
Memphis’ Chick-Fil-A locations have it down pat: your order in your
hands — fast. More amazing (and given the volume of business),
they do it, hands down, with the friendliest service in town.

Justin Fox Burks

Chick-Fil-A, 1st place: ‘Best Kid-Friendly Restaurant’

Best Kid-Friendly Restaurant

1. Chick-Fil-A

2. Chuck E. Cheese

3. Huey’s

We forgot to mention (see “Best Service”) that the crew at
Chick-Fil-A must have nerves of steel. As a new winner in the
kid-friendly restaurant category, these folks have what it takes when
children combine with fast food. Call it grace under pressure.

Best Local Late-Night Dining

1. Huey’s

2. Earnestine & Hazel’s

3. Young Avenue Deli

And we mean late. We’re talking, at several of Huey’s
multiple locations, a kitchen that’s open until 2 a.m. Don’t deny it.
At that hour and after some damage, what your body’s craving is a
burger and onion rings.

Best Place for People-Watching

1. Flying Saucer

2. Young Avenue Deli

3. Celtic Crossing

The corner of Beale and Second: The wide-open windows at downtown’s
Flyer Saucer aren’t there for no reason. Whether you’re in the
restaurant or passing on the sidewalk, this place was tailor-made for
people-watching. Evidence: During the Memphis Music and Heritage
Festival a few weekends ago, the place was jamming, inside and out.

Best Patio

1. Celtic Crossing

2. Boscos Squared

3. Cafe Olé

In a word: trivia. Celtic’s popular Wednesday-night tournament this
past summer had the patio packed. Any night, any season, though, will
do for a Guinness and some major hanging-out in Cooper-Young. Bonus
attraction: On this patio, you’re only a few steps from the scene on
the street.

Best Local Place That Delivers

1. Garibaldi’s Pizza

2. Young Avenue Deli

3. Camy’s

Another new winner in our Best Of poll: Garibaldi’s Pizza —
established 30 years ago by owner Mike Garibaldi — has three
locations for handmade pizzas, pastas, salads, wings, sandwiches,
sweets, and more. Garibaldi’s caters to not only what you’re hungry
for, according to readers, it really delivers.

Justin Fox Burks

Muddy’s Bake Shop, 1st place: ‘Best Bakery’

Best Bakery

1. Muddy’s Bake Shop

2. La Baguette

3. Fresh Market

Again: a new winner. And, according to Muddy’s website, if you’re
rude, whiny, impatient, or otherwise unpleasant, forget stepping inside
this bakeshop. If you’re green-minded and egg-headed (Muddy’s uses eggs
from cage-free, free-range hens), you’re welcome! Plus, who’s to argue
with a cupcake called “Prozac?”

Best Local Coffeehouse

1. High Point Coffee (now closed)

2. Otherlands

3. Café Eclectic — tie

Republic Coffee

High Point Coffee just closed. (It’s the economy, stupid.) But
Otherlands, Cafe Eclectic, and Republic Coffee — the hotshots
rounding out your picks for best local coffeehouse — havestill
got their vibe going and the caffeine coming.

Best Restaurant

1. Restaurant Iris

2. Tsunami

3. Huey’s

Iris: It’s in the eye of the beholder. Restaurant Iris, “Best
Restaurant,” according to Memphians who value fine dining. In the space
of a year, nationally recognized chef Kelly English has succeeded in
turning Restaurant Iris into the city’s go-to address for exceptional
French-Creole-inspired cuisine. Doesn’t hurt that the restaurant also
features first-rate service in an intimate, romantic atmosphere.

Best New Restaurant

1. Flight

2. Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen

3. Overton Park Pizze Stone

The interior’s gorgeous, but it’s the food at Flight that has
Flyer readers hooked — and voting. Flight’s “flights”
— a trio of tastings from the entrée, dessert, and wine
menus — make it a wonderful way to sample what’s cooking in the
kitchen. What’s on your table: small plates but great taste. Or you
want regular-size portions? No problem. You can order that way too.

Categories
Cover Feature News

Meatless ‘Cue

In the land of dry rub ribs and pulled pork, it seems that a
vegetarian would be out of luck. But a handful of Memphis restaurants
offer meatless alternatives to the traditional pork-based ‘cue.

Central BBQ’s portabella sandwich features a giant marinated,
char-grilled mushroom, which the cooks generously coat with tangy
barbecue sauce. The result? A messy, almost-meaty sandwich that
prevents vegetarians from feeling left out when dining with their
omnivore friends. (Vegans should request no coleslaw or cheese since
those come on the sandwich.)

R.P. Tracks on Walker Avenue serves up large fried cubes of sweet
‘n’ tangy barbecue tofu in three ways: on nachos, in a burrito, or
piled onto a bun. Their BBQ Tofu Nachos are likely the most popular
vegan menu item in town — black beans, tangy barbecue tofu,
lettuce, tomatoes, jalapenos, and salsa top crispy, seasoned tortilla
chips.

The BBQ Tofu Burrito features a similar list of ingredients, plus
rice, stuffed into a larger-than-one-person-should-eat tortilla. Tofu
cubes meet coleslaw on a bun with their BBQ Tofu sandwich, but be
warned: It’s nearly impossible to fit into your mouth. I typically take
the top bun off and eat the sandwich open-faced.

Downtown’s Déjà Vu Creole Soul Food and Vegetarian
Restaurant specializes in both vegan and meaty Southern staples, so it
follows that they make a mean platter of sweet and spicy barbecue tofu.
Fried tofu cubes are smothered in sauce and served with a choice of two
sides, among them citrus spinach, garlic roasted potatoes, smothered
okra, and fried cabbage.

Not only does vegetarian barbecue save little piggies from
slaughter, it’s also lower in saturated fat.

But both meat and non-meat barbecue have at least one thing in
common: You’re going to need a wet nap.

Categories
Cover Feature News

The Quest for Fire

In the beginning there was nothing, and the universe sang the blues. But later, there was man, and it was good, and there was fire, and it was good, and there was pig, and it was good. And some good person (coulda been Adam, coulda been Eve) saw that fire and pig belonged together, and it was oh so good. (Funny story: Eve liked ribs so much she tried one of Adam’s. Meh, not much flavor.) In truth, nobody knows exactly where fire met pig, but everybody agrees on where it was perfected: Memphis, the Garden of Eatin’.

Fast-forward to today, when not only has the marriage of fire and pig been perfected in Memphis, it’s been perfected in many different
ways across the city. Barbecuing ribs is an art in Memphis, with many
masters finding delicious subtlety in some fundamental variations: dry
or dripping wet, spicy or sweet, spare or baby back ribs.

We here at the Memphis Flyer have taken upon ourselves the
enormous burden of seeking out the best of the best of the best in
Mid-South barbecue rib-ery. It’s a noble quest for fire and pig, we’ll
admit, and one not taken without some measure of sober reflection. With
a passive mien, we assumed the mantle of responsibility and trudged
toward our fates, each step heavier than the … oh, who are we
kidding, it was the most fun thing ever! The Flyer staff was
full of smiles — saucy, meaty-toothed smiles — for three
days, as we performed our self-elected duty.

Justin Fox Burks

Ten years ago, the Flyer conducted a similar contest,
sampling ribs from all over to find a winner. The story, published May
20, 1999, with a cover featuring Flyer writer Chris Davis’ belly
emblazoned with a saucy “Q,” found a tie at the top, with the best ribs
coming from Willingham’s and Corky’s, followed by Cozy Corner and
Pig-n-Whistle (honorable mentions: Gridley’s, the BBQ Shop, and
Rendezvous).

Volunteering for judging duty this time around were Greg Akers, Tess
Bailey, Mary Cashiola, Chris Davis, Chris Herrington, and Bruce
VanWyngarden. We cast our nets around the ribs from 14 must-sample
local establishments. We halved the list and held two qualifying
rounds, with a half-dozen finalists competing on a third day. Scoring
from the initial round did not carry over. The plate, as it were, was
wiped clean.

Unfortunately, one of the winners from a decade ago, Willingham’s,
is no longer with us. Thankfully, the ‘cue master from that
establishment, John Willingham himself, is, and he graciously agreed to
talk fire and pig with the judges and administer the rites of his Order
of the Apron. A multi-time winner at the Memphis in May World
Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest, Willingham is a nationally known
expert in the field.

Justin Fox Burks

John Willingham

Willingham preached the gospel of the rib, which has five basic
tenets: appearance, aroma, taste, chewability, and memory. On barbecue
sauce, Willingham said, “Generally speaking, people cover up that which
you love to see — it’s like a woman wears a dress.” And the
congregation (well, some of us), replied, “Amen.” Of barbecue judging,
Willingham said, “We wanted to make it formal but with an element of
freedom. I believe in the freedom of barbecue.”

With freedom in mind, the contest was fashioned after good ole
American democracy. Restaurants were not told that the orders of ribs
would be used for a contest: We judged the ‘cue that anyone can get on
any given day. Ribs were then assigned numbers, so the judges didn’t
know where they came from.

Armed with score sheets based on those used in the Memphis in May
contest (which broke down judging into four categories: Appearance of
Entry, Tenderness of Entry, Flavor of Entry, and Overall Impression),
our motley ‘cue crew got to work. Rib by rib, we employed all of our
senses to determine who has the best ribs in Memphis. Each judge had
his or her preferences, of course, but cumulatively we came up with a
final ranking. Who won? Read on, reader.

The Top Three:

Justin Fox Burks

#1 The BBQ Shop

1. The BBQ Shop: On the first day of testing, the BBQ Shop’s
rack of ribs scored well but only topped one of our six judges’
ballots. “Pulls off bone nicely, but a little dry,” one judge wrote.
“It has a different taste from any other rib. Unique, but I’m not going
to daydream about it. The meat is almost too subtle, but it’s there and
pretty good,” another decided.

In the final round, however, the BBQ Shop left our judges plenty to
daydream about, finishing in the Top 2 on five of six ballots and
excelling in every category. Appearance: “Big bones with meat on top of
the rib.” “An appealing color — warm blend of red and gold.”
Texture: “The texture couldn’t be more perfect. Stays on the bone but
comes off the second the tooth hits it — and moist!” “Terrific
chewability.” Taste: “Sweet, excellent sauce, with the flavor of the
meat emerging as you chew.” “Good blend of spices and good meat
flavor.” And overall: “Two-faced — wet on one side, dry on the
other. These are Hannah Montana ribs — the best of both worlds.”
One judged summed up the collective reaction: “I am very happy about
this rib.”

2. Leonard’s: The bold, heavy rub on Leonard’s ribs split our
judges on the first tasting. “The rub is too thick and salty. It
overwhelms the meat but has a nice hint of heat,” one judge wrote.
Another agreed: “Too much spice — it overpowers the flavor of
everything else.” Others were knocked out by the intensity: “Pops with
taste,” one judge gushed. “The dry rub is magnificently strong.
Fantastic. Wanted to eat all of it off the bone.” Another wrote,
“Wonderful, wonderful spice. Coriander? Mustard? Complex, smoky
flavors, but the flavor of the meat a little covered up.”

In the finals, Leonard’s seemed to find the right balance of spice
and meat: “Spicy, but doesn’t overwhelm the smoke, which doesn’t
overwhelm the meat,” one judge proclaimed. “Piquant, tangy with a nice
blend of sweet and smoky and an appealing aftertaste,” wrote another
judge. “Very spicy and tasty,” another agreed. “Just the right mix of
spice, heat, and saltiness, and not too sweet. Yummy.” Still, this is
one rib that is not for those who can’t take intense flavors: “I worked
this bone as long as I could, but you’ll need a beverage with it.”

3. The Pig on Beale: Neither as universally known as the
likes of Rendezvous or Corky’s, nor boasting the hipster/connoisseur
cred of Cozy Corner or Payne’s, The Pig on Beale is a relatively recent
entrant to the Memphis’ ‘cue scene, and it’s tucked away on Memphis’
most famous street, where music and nightlife tend to overshadow
food.

But our judges were impressed by the consistent, smoky, “pink to the
bone” flavor of the Pig’s ribs: “Too sweet and very little spice, but
the smoke is brilliant. The meat’s flavor swells in the mouth,” one
judge wrote. “Tender, smoky,” another said. “Tender and easy to bite
off the bone — a nice lean texture. It’s sweet on top and
smoky underneath. Good flavor,” one judge decided. The sweetness of the
Pig’s offerings was the only aspect that split our judges, though
everyone appreciated the beauty of the “dark, red, caramelized
exterior.” “It’s a dessert rib,” one judge wrote, capturing what seemed
to be a consensus of opinion.

Justin Fox Burks

Left to right: Bruce VanWyngarden, Chris Davis, Greg Akers, Chris

Runners-Up

Rendezvous: The spicy rub on this Memphis staple was a big
hit with our judges. “Looks good like a dry rib should, with whole
mustard seeds and crumbled spice that’s still green (!) amid the red
and black,” one judge marveled. “Very pretty with lots of spice on top
of what looks like a generous portion of meat,” another judge wrote.
But while our judges loved the spice, they were merely satisfied with
the rest of the package. “Brilliant spice mix on nicely grilled meat,
though it has very little smoke or other noteworthy characteristics,”
one judge decided. Another summed up the overall impression: “This
tastes like backyard-cookout ribs but in a good way.”

Pig-n-Whistle: The dark-glazed ribs from this suburban staple
drew a mixed reaction. “The sweet sauce overpowers the meat,” one judge
complained. Another cracked: “I don’t like having to forage my meat off
the plate from a puddle of sauce. But maybe that’s just me.” If one
judge thought Pig-n-Whistle’s sauce was a “cover-up,” another disagreed
by inverting Willingham’s aphorism: “The sauce, in this case, is like a
well-cut dress on a woman — it enhances.” And there was plenty of
agreement on this issue. “Good sauce flavor — rich, hearty, not
too sweet, and you can still taste the meat,” one judge wrote.

Interstate: On its first tasting, three different judges
praised Interstate’s tangy sauce as a nice complement to meat whose
“the texture is perfect — it pulls off the bone easily, but
doesn’t fall off. Moist, but not mushy.” “This rib has good flavor that
improves — swells — after you swallow,” another wrote.
A second tasting, however, drew criticism for the
“tomato-paste-looking” sauce that drew “dress-on-a-woman” complaints.
So Interstate suffered from inconsistency. Even on the second day,
however, two judges praised the “subtle heat” of Interstate’s ribs.

Honorable Mentions

(These contenders just missed making the finals in a close
vote):

Central BBQ: Several judges were taken aback by the dark
appearance of Central’s rack: “Looks burned, the appearance almost
makes you not want to eat it,” one judge wrote, echoing others’
sentiments. Some judges had a different reaction to the “as dark as my
coffee” appearance: “a dark rub with evidence of smoke on the bone. Not
pretty like a wet rib, but you can tell the meat’s going to be good
underneath.” Once judges sank their teeth into Central’s ribs, there
was a similarly split opinion. “Inconsistent, the taste is almost
oily,” one judge complained. Another thought their ribs had a “dry,
agey” taste. But others were impressed: “Good smoky flavor to the meat,
solid mix of spice up top,” one judge praised. “Meat is smoky and
juicy. The spice rub is subtle but gains over time, with a spicy kick
at the end,” another wrote. A third said the meat “pulls off the bone
just right, with a pleasant texture.”

Germantown Commissary: The chewy texture of Germantown
Commissary’s ribs was a consistent subject of either minor or major
complaints: “Tough and chewy, really chewy. This did not do it for me,”
one judge wrote. “The meat needs to be more tender,” another wrote.
“Sticks to the bone a little too much but has a nice texture to the
taste,” another judge wrote. Commissary scored well in other areas,
though: “Nice hint of smokiness and good balance of sweetness,” one
judge wrote of the flavor. “A solid rib, though not as spicy as it
could be. Lingers and improves. A subtle ‘cue that sneaks up on you,”
one judge praised. Another summed up the Commissary’s entry this way:
“Great overall performance in terms of taste and appearance but not as
tender as it could be. But I’ll remember this one.”

Cozy Corner: The first ribs tasted, our judges hadn’t quite
found their groove in terms of juggling messy finger food and
comment-writing, but two judges complained that Cozy Corner’s ribs had
too much fat, while another questioned the “petroleum aftertaste.” But
another described these thick ribs as “beautiful” and praised the
“great spice mix.”

We judged the following 14 restaurants. Click on a restaurant name to leave your own comments and reviews!

(*Denotes location where we picked up the ribs for this
contest)

A&R (1802 Elvis Presley Blvd., 7174 Stage Rd., 3721 Hickory
Hill Rd., *22 N. 3rd St.)

Blues City Café (138 Beale St.)

The BBQ Shop (1782 Madison Ave.)

Central BBQ (*2249 Central Ave., 4375 Summer Ave.)

Corky’s (*5259 Poplar Ave., 1740 N. Germantown Pkwy., 743 W.
Poplar Ave.)

Cozy Corner (745 N. Parkway)

Germantown Commissary (2290 S. Germantown Rd.)

Interstate (*2265 S. 3rd St., 150 W. Stateline Rd.)

Leonard’s (*103 N. Main St., 5465 Fox Plaza Dr.)

Neely’s (5700 Mount Moriah Rd., *670 Jefferson Ave.)

Payne’s (1762 Lamar Ave.)

The Pig on Beale (167 Beale St.)

Pig-n-Whistle (*2740 Bartlett Rd., 4265 Hacks Cross Rd., 6084
Kerr-Rosemark Rd.)

Rendezvous (52 S. 2nd St.)

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

What a Site

Craig Blondis and Roger Sapp, owners of Central BBQ, are getting ready to open a second location. It’s the same name, same concept, same food just in a different part of town and much, much bigger.

Blondis and Sapp are taking the new Central BBQ to the next level by transforming the former Red Lobster on Summer into a barbecue paradise. The restaurant can seat 200 people, and the kitchen, part of which will be designated for catering, appears to be larger than all of Central BBQ number one. Inside, you’ll find a bar that serves beer and wine, flat-screen televisions, and a labyrinth of booths and tables.

Another holdover, besides the food and name, is the ordering system. You walk up to the counter, place your order, take a number, and find a seat. Then you’ll wait for the food runner to bring you your goodies.

Central BBQ is open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Central BBQ, 2249 Central (272-9371), 4375 Summer (767-4672)

For those of you who’ve been waiting for the Blue Monkey downtown to rise from the ashes, it’s not going to happen. Instead of rebuilding the pub at G.E. Patterson and Front, where the building was destroyed by fire in September 2005, Mike Johnson and his partners have decided to go with Plan B. Blue Monkey is moving into the space that once housed Alice’s Urban Market and eventually expanding into the Blue Sky Couriers space.

“It looks like the guys from Blue Sky are looking for a bigger place and won’t renew their lease,” says Johnson. “We just don’t know when that’s going to happen. So for right now we started renovations on the side that’s vacant but hope to have the whole thing up before Memphis In May.”

“The whole thing” — Alice’s and Blue Sky — is about 3,500 square feet, a bit bigger than the former Blue Monkey location.

Blue Monkey, 513 S. Front Street (527-6665)

The first Jim ‘N Nick’s Bar-B-Q was opened in Birmingham in 1985 by father and son Jim and Nick Pihakes. Jim recently passed away and has left Nick the task of making a legendary barbecue restaurant “world famous.” Toward that end, the 19th Jim ‘N Nick’s just opened on Germantown Parkway.

While you can find Jim ‘N Nick’s in Georgia, Alabama, South Carolina, Tennessee, and Colorado, it’s still a family-owned enterprise that prides itself on quality ingredients and food that goes straight from “pit to plate.”

“Southern hospitality and foods made from scratch are something we emphasize here,” says general manager Stephen Williams. “The restaurant doesn’t have a freezer, so you know that everything here is really, really fresh.”

Jim ‘N Nick’s Bar-B-Q is open 10:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 10:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Jim ‘N Nick’s Bar-B-Q,2359 Germantown Pkwy. (388-0998)

This weekend at the Memphis Botanic Garden you can drink with purpose at the 12th annual Sip Around the World wine tasting, which will benefit the National Kidney Foundation of West Tennessee. More than 100 wines will be available for sampling, and featured wineries include Stag’s Leap, Patz and Hall, Hess Collection, Robert Hall, and others. Live music, silent and live auctions, as well as hors d’oeuvres are part of the evening. Tickets are $55 in advance and $65 at the door.

Sip Around the World, Memphis Botanic Garden, Friday, November 3rd, 7 p.m. to 10 p.m. For more information and tickets, call 683-6185.

Encore Restaurant will host an Australian wine dinner with Chris Fennett from the Australian Premium Wine Collection on Wednesday, November 8th.

The three-course menu includes warm asparagus with morel mushrooms, beef tenderloin with roasted winter vegetables, and warm tapioca pudding with Grand Marnier, marinated strawberries, and pistachios. The price for the dinner is $65 per person. Call the restaurant for more information and to make a reservation.

Encore, 150 Peabody Place (528-1415)

siba@gmx.com