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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Cool As a Cucumber Drinks for Summer

I was enjoying dinner at Char last week — a payday tradition for me and a good friend — on one of those August days when the temperature soars so high that it feels like fall is a long way off. At Char, a great dining experience if you’ve never had the pleasure, I usually sip a Woody Creek Mule, made with a craft potato vodka distilled in Colorado. Last week, however, my finger wavered over the menu, and I selected Char’s tequila cocktail instead.

It was the best decision I’ve made all month.

The waiter delivered a concoction of Tres Agaves Blanco, cucumber liqueur, lime juice, cilantro and jalapeño syrup, and Vinho Verde wine. Served in a highball glass, the drink was a delight, easy on the palate, and utterly refreshing. It had a complex flavor: The cucumber and peppers mingled with the fruity notes of the tequila and Vinho Verde.

Two were my limit, but the drink has caused me to reappraise cucumbers. The timing couldn’t be any better — right now, cukes are at peak production here in Memphis. The crisp, juicy vegetables can add a real tang to your late-summer cocktails.

For the last several days, I’ve been sampling drink recipes at home. I’ve sliced and muddled cucumbers. I’ve made cucumber simple syrup. I skipped the cucumber-and-lime flavored carbonated soda I spotted on the shelves at Target, but I did splurge on a $21 bottle of Thatcher’s Cucumber Liqueur, which is bottled in Michigan but tastes like it’s straight from the backyard garden.

Kaiskynet | Dreamstime.com

And if September is as sultry as it can be, I’m sure I’ll try one of the cucumber vodkas on the market. I’m tempted by Effen Cucumber Vodka, bottled in the Netherlands, and Prairie Cucumber Vodka, which is distilled up the river in Minnesota. I’m also intrigued by Cucumber Bitters bottled by German distillery The Bitter Truth, a company that took top honors for their Celery Bitters at Tales of the Cocktail New Orleans 2010.

I like simple cocktails, and the Cucumber Cooler, a cocktail I found on the Minimalist Baker’s website, is quick and easy. Simply add 1½ ounces of gin, a few slices of lime, and 6 mint leaves to a shaker and muddle. Add 4 to 6 cucumber slices, shake vigorously, and pour into an ice-filled glass. Top the drink with tonic water (I used Schweppes diet tonic water) and stir. Let it sit for a few minutes to meld, then enjoy. If it’s too tart for your tastes, add a tablespoon of sugar to the ingredients in the first step next time.

Cucumber gimlets take a little more time to make, but the payoff is worth it. Start with 2 cucumbers, slicing off a few nice pieces to use as garnish. Set those aside, then coarsely chop the rest of the cucumbers. Puree the vegetable in a food processor, then strain and discard the solids, reserving at least one cup of cucumber juice. In a large pitcher, combine the cucumber juice with a half-cup of gin, 4 teaspoons of lime juice, and a tablespoon of sugar. Add a cup of ice cubes, and stir until the mixture is cool and all the sugar has dissolved. Strain the drink into Martini glasses, garnish with lime and cucumber slices, and serve.

I used more homemade cucumber juice to recreate the Cucumber Lime Tequila Cocktail recipe I found on a website called Food with Feeling. The drink called for lowball glasses, but I used a taller glass to combine 3 ounces of cucumber juice, 1½ ounces of lime juice, 1½ ounces of tequila, and a quarter-teaspoon of sugar over ice. Then I topped off the drink with club soda and garnished it with a lime wedge and a slice of cucumber. It might not have been as fancy as the cocktail I was served at Char, but it tasted just as refreshing.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Now open: Char and Catherine & Mary’s

Earlier this year, restaurateur Ben Brock took home the Restaurateur of the Year award from the Memphis Restaurant Association.

Brock owns 11 restaurants in Tennessee and Mississippi, including Amerigo and, most recently, Char, a seafood and steakhouse in the Highland Row development near the U of M.

This is the second Char location after 15 years of success in Jackson, Mississippi. From floor to ceiling, kitchen to table, it is no surprise that Brock can add the MRA trophy to his mantel.

“It’s unlike your typical steakhouse,” Brock says. “It has a little more personality, a little more Southern charm.”

It’s a perfect mixture of old and new, with dark wood and white tile, big open spaces and large windows, and a menu that will inspire a following of regulars who will want to check off every item.

Brock says their gumbo won a Jackson, Mississippi, gumbo contest, with its thick, dark roux and generous chunks of crab, sausage, and chicken ($5/cup, $7/ bowl).

“It’s stirred a lot,” Brock says. “It gets a lot of love.”

The Cornbread Dusted Redfish, which has been getting a lot of attention from the clientele, is served with Delta Grind grits, spinach, and Abita Amber crab pan sauce ($15 lunch, $28 dinner).

“That’s a recipe from [chef] Steven Howell,” Brock says. “He’s newer to our concept, so he gives everything a new spark.”

Ben Brock’s Char — not your typical seafood and steakhouse

Char-Jackson veteran Anthony Hatten is the other half in the kitchen, the brains behind the longtime favorite, the filet, a cut of tenderloin served with two choices of sides ($36/eight ounces, $51/12).

And Brock swears by his pecan pie.

“We also sell them whole during the holiday season,” he says. “[In Mississippi], we’ll sell up to 150 during Thanksgiving week. It’s one of the best, and we make it in-house, every day.”

Char is located at 431 S. Highland, #120. Brock owns the restaurant along with three partners through his company 4-Top Hospitality.

Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Mon. through Sat., and Sun., 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. 249-3533, memphis.charrestaurant.com.

Childhood friends, co-chefs, and business partners, Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman have done it yet again.

The pair behind Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen, Hog & Hominy, and Porcellino’s Craft Butcher have branched out of their familiar Brookhaven Circle multi-digs and headed west with their latest edition of traditional Italian cuisine with a Southern flourish, Catherine & Mary’s.

Housed in the ground floor of the Chisca on Main, this iteration of their brand of distinct Italian food would make their grandmamas proud.

It is named for them, after all — from Hudman’s grandmother, Catherine Chiozza and Ticer’s Mary Spinosa.

The approach can be bracketed between Andrew Michael and Hog & Hominy, according to Ticer and Hudman.

There are no shrinking violets on the menu, with oysters served with spinach, brandade, paddlefish, caviar, and panna gratta; radiatore served with pistachio pesto, mint, basil, and smoked ricotta salata; monkfish; cassarecce served with foie gras and giblets; and yes, they have Maw Maw’s gravy … with meatballs.

With a menu like that, you need a knockout setting, and the Chisca delivers.

Full windows flank the northwest walls with enviable views of Main Street.

Walls are left rough, and I kind of want to take all of the furniture home with me.

A 27-foot bar seats 20 along the north wall, and they offer a private dining room with access to a Chisca event room.

In 2008, they opened their flagship restaurant, Andrew Michael, followed by the more casual Hog & Hominy in 2012. Porcellino’s, which, in my opinion, offers some of the strongest coffee in town, made its debut in February of last year, and early this year New Orleans hipped themselves to the Memphis duo with the opening of Josephine Estelle in the new Ace Hotel.

Catherine & Mary’s is located at 272 S. Main. Open Mon.-Thurs., 5-10 p.m., and Fri. and Sat., 5-11 p.m. 254-8600, catherineandmarys.com.