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Soul Food From the Heart at Alcenia’s

B.J. Chester-Tamayo is known for hugging customers who enter her restaurant, Alcenia’s.

She doesn’t do that anymore since she converted the restaurant to takeout only because of the COVID-19 pandemic. It’s “very hard” not to hug people, Chester-Tamayo says. “One of my girlfriends said, ‘If you can stop hugging, anybody can.’ And I have to catch myself. I just bump elbows. Bump, bump, bump. I don’t know how long it’ll be before we’ll ever be able to do that again.”

Her restaurant is open, but she won’t let people eat in the dining room. “This is too serious. People’s lives are too important. This is not over.” And, she says, “I can’t take a chance on my people and my employees’ lives.”

B.J. Chester-Tamayo

They can’t dine in, but fans can tune in to Chester-Tamayo on their phones or computers. She stars in her own cooking show, Alcenia’s Family With Southern Girl, which airs at 1 p.m. Sundays on YouTube Live.

She recently made her buttermilk pie on TODAY with Hoda & Jenna. “They loved it.”

That was the second time she appeared on the show, but her fourth time on NBC. She’s appeared twice on Sunday TODAY with Willie Geist.

Guy Fieri, host of Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives, gave Chester-Tamayo a shout-out on a CBS News segment on June 28th. Fieri, who visited the restaurant in 2008, referred to Alcenia’s as a “tasty little joint.” About the segment, Chester-Tamayo says, “That show probably has been the biggest impact on Alcenia’s.”

But people still want to be able to taste Chester-Tamayo’s cooking. She offers her complete menu, which includes her classic dishes, such as smothered pork chops and salmon croquettes, for takeout. And she’s selling her products, including her preserves and pies, online.

“What I’m trying to do is stay in business,” Chester-Tamayo says.

She’s in her restaurant’s kitchen Tuesdays through Saturdays. On one recent day, she made an array of desserts, smothered pork chops, yams, smothered chicken, baked tilapia, baked catfish, fried catfish, meatloaf, pinto beans, mashed potatoes with gravy, rice and gravy, lima beans, green beans, and cabbage.

And when she got home? Marie Callender’s frozen pot pie and some boiled corn because she was so tired. “You know, that’s a crying shame,” she says.

Some people are confused about the name of her restaurant, but Alcenia was Alcenia Clark- Chester, Chester-Tamayo’s mother, who died at age 98 on December 29th of last year. Her mother taught her to cook after Chester-Tamayo opened the restaurant on November 7, 1997. “She didn’t make me do anything growing up. I was an only child. I did not even boil water. I ate, but I didn’t cook anything.”
[pullquote-2] She got the idea to do the YouTube cooking show last year. “God gave me this idea 9, 10 months ago,” she says. Chester-Tamayo had her own ideas about how she wanted her to show to be. “I didn’t want a show just me standing up just cooking because that’s what everybody does.” She wanted to cook “with people in the home.”

The three or four people on her show are cooking along with her on YouTube from their homes across the country. They cook recipes from Chester-Tamayo’s cookbooks, Soul 2 Soul from Alcenia’s to the World, and Alcenia’s Healing the Soul Autobiography/Cookbook. As for the latter, she says, “My son, Will A. Tamayo III, would have been 46 years old May 6, 1974. That’s the book I wrote about dealing with his death.”

An episode, which she titled “The Brothers,” features four men who are cooking with her. “We cooked the vegetables together. We cooked fresh snap beans with white potatoes. We cooked Alcenia’s corn. It’s like fried corn. Bell pepper and celery. It’s a recipe I made up ‘cause I couldn’t do corn on the cob like my mom did. The old-fashioned way.”

Dessert was Strawberry Delight Cake, one of her mother’s recipes. “My mom always made it every Fourth of July in our house. It’s an angel food cake with Philadelphia cream cheese and sour cream or cream cheese frosting. And frozen strawberries and fresh strawberries.”

Chester-Tamayo has done shows featuring just herself.

In her first show, she made her oven-fried chicken. “I did it like you are going to fry it with flour and seasoning and everything, but we made a gravy so you could cook it in the oven. We wanted that fried effect, but instead of doing it on the stove, we did it in the oven. We did cabbage. We did hot water cornbread.”

On her “Breakfast, or Dinner, or Me” episode, she made salmon croquettes and fried green tomatoes. “Some people have salmon croquettes for breakfast, some people have salmon croquettes for dinner, some have salmon croquettes for both of them.”

She also made biscuit toast. “When you have biscuits left over, you take them and cut them in half and you put margarine or butter with cinnamon and toast them just like you would if you were making regular toast.”

Chester-Tamayo likes to make a complete dinner, so people who are watching the show and cooking with her will have a complete Sunday dinner when they’re finished. “One meat, bread, vegetable. I want to make sure they have a meal. I want it to taste good enough so they can sit down with their family and enjoy this meal.”

She has entertainment on her show. One episode featured her friend, Memphis Music Hall of Fame member Charlie Musselwhite. “I just asked him, ‘Will you be on my show?’” Musselwhite “made up an Alcenia’s song” that he played on guitar, she says. “I was hoping he’d do something with his harmonica, but he did an original song.”

Her friend, Dr. Darrell Murray, wrote her show’s theme song.

Another musician, Robert Sampson, told her he named his guitar “Alcenia” after her mother. “For somebody to tell you something like that, it just touches my heart. My mom would have been happy to hear that.”

Chester-Tamayo’s sense of humor shines through in the episodes. For her Easter show, she dolled herself up in her spring finery and made Gogo’s Pecan Pie, which was named after her late son. “I dressed up like I’d been to church. I have a big white hat on with my beads.”

She told her viewers she’d “been to Bedside Baptist with Pastor Pillow.” But what she meant was she had just gotten up from her bed and her pillow.
[pullquote-1] “People say, ‘Your last show, girl, you were just so funny.’ I just be me. I don’t know anybody else to be but me. I’ve always been the same way. If I like you, I deal with you. If I don’t like you, I don’t deal with you. God, forgive me, but that’s just the way it is.”

Chester-Tamayo does get serious on her show, too. “I told people I really needed their help. It was Easter Sunday. That I was not going to make it on takeout. I need people to support me through my cooking show and through my website, alcenias.com. They can go subscribe and help me.”

God also gave her the idea to start shipping her products, she says. “I’m shipping pies, preserves, T-shirts, cookbooks, aprons. I have about 10 items. They have to order it from me. Apple butter, cha cha, pickled tomatoes. As the season goes on I try to let people know what I have. Peach preserves, pear preserves. People have just been awesome. That’s what’s keeping me in business right now. Ninety percent of my customers were out-of-towners.”

Her restaurant already was having problems because the renovation of Cook Convention Center made it difficult for people to get to her location, she says. “I already lost money because of that. Then COVID-19 comes in. I looked up and told God and my mom this morning, ‘Thank you. If I didn’t have these products, I’d probably be closed.’

“The only reason I’m still in business is God and the people he has put in my life. I didn’t cook growing up. No culinary skills. Strictly by the grace of God and people he has put in my life and people he’s keeping in my life.”

And, Chester-Tamayo says, “Once you come in my life any kind of way, you’re part of Alcenia’s family. I’ve got the world’s largest family.”

Alcenia’s is at 317 N. Main; (901) 523-0200.

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News The Fly-By

Meeting Needs

The Cannon Center for the Performing Arts — and the expansion of the Cook Convention Center — was one of the most challenging construction projects in recent years. Plagued by missed deadlines, cost overruns, and lawsuits, the expansion was finally completed about four years ago.

But Pierre Landaiche III, the Cook Convention Center’s general manager since 1996, says the story has a happy ending. So happy, in fact, that the convention center board has even brought up the idea of adding more space.

“Memphis is a hot destination right now. No one else will ever claim Elvis or Beale Street,” Landaiche told a group from the local Public Relations Society of America last week. “We just have to meet the need.”

To be a successful meeting destination — and share in the hundred billion dollar convention industry — a city needs hotel rooms, attractions, transportation, and meeting facilities. Before 1995, Memphis had three of the four. What it lacked was meeting facilities.

“Generally, we heard, ‘Your building needs to be updated,'” Landaiche said. “‘You need more meeting rooms.'”

Though Landaiche said it was easy to justify the project by the time it was completed, the public didn’t always see it that way.

“The general consensus was that it was the worst public project ever done in the city of Memphis,” Landaiche said.

The convention center is funded with the hotel/motel occupancy tax. During the expansion, the convention center added a 28,000-square-foot ballroom, as well as 10 smaller meeting rooms and the Cannon Center auditorium.

“The Cannon Center is arguably one of the top five theater venues in the country, especially when it comes to acoustics,” Landaiche said. “Compared to other facilities around the country, we got a bargain.”

Miami’s new Carnival Center — which includes a concert hall and opera house — cost about $473 million. A new symphony center is being erected in Atlanta for $300 million. Nashville’s 1,900-seat Schermerhorn Symphony Center cost $120 million (The Cannon Center seats 2,100.)

“We paid $60 million and that was only four years ago,” Landaiche said. “It’s paying off.”

Since the project — which cost $106.5 million in construction and additional settlement fees — the convention center’s annual revenue has almost doubled from $1.3 million before the expansion to $2.5 million afterward. Before the renovation, the center saw about 12 national conventions a year and now it’s almost triple that. That means an additional 200,000 people through the doors each year, and roughly 95,000 hotel-room nights each year generated just from convention center and Cannon Center events.

Landaiche estimates the conventions mean a $70 million economic impact for the city. But even with the investments paying off and revenue up, the convention center still runs at a $2 million deficit each year.

“We can’t charge enough for our product to break even,” Landaiche said. “Places like Phoenix and Ft. Lauderdale are giving their convention space away.”

The convention industry is notoriously competitive.Washington, D.C.’s convention center expects to have a $22 million deficit this year. And it’s surely bracing itself for next April when the Gaylord National Resort and Convention Center — created by the company behind Nashville’s Gaylord Opryland resort — opens with 2,000 rooms and 470,000 square feet of convention space in nearby Maryland.

Memphis is not only competing with similar size cities such as Birmingham, but with industry leader Las Vegas, as well. And with a possible expansion in the works for the six-year-old DeSoto Civic Center, Memphis may get more competition closer to home.

Generally, convention-center renovations and expansion happen in 10-year cycles.

“Because of the level of activity we’ve had at the Cook Convention Center, the board along with the convention bureau and the hotel community are beginning to look at a long-range convention plan to start talking about the need for an expanded facility,” Landaiche said. “It’s basically, how do we address the meeting planners’ needs in the future?”

The talk is still just that — talk — but any expansion would be predicated on a needs analysis for events that are currently too large for Memphis but are interested in coming here.

Said Landaiche: “A $2 million deficit at the end of the day for $70 million [of economic impact], it’s not a bad investment.”

Categories
News The Fly-By

Duel Purpose

There was a whole lot of fighting going on at the Memphis Cook Convention Center this weekend. But that’s what happens when the United States Fencing Association (USFA) comes to town.

Over 1,000 fencers from all over the country competed in the USFA’s three-day North American Cup Tournament. Fencers are dressed in white bodysuits, tight white knickers, knee-length socks, and netted masks. They lunge and parry, pointing dull-tipped blades at their opponents.

“It’s not just a dainty dance. It’s a workout,” says Cynthia Bent Findley, U.S. media coordinator for USFA. “One bout can burn as many calories as a 400-meter dash.”

Their weapons (you’ll get in trouble if you call them swords) have a flattened tip, which retracts when it strikes an opponent. The first person to get in five or 15 hits (depending on the level of competition) wins the bout.

Though they sometimes experience bruising, Findley says the dull tips rarely injure fencers. “Their jackets and knickers are made from ballistic nylon, which was developed to stop bullets,” says Findley.

Though most competitors are from other cities, a few locals are competing in the cadet (ages 13 to 17) competition. Seventeen-year-old David Cash, who wears purple and gold knee socks, fences at Christian Brothers High School.

“I practiced really hard for this — jogging, biking, and focusing on building stamina and control,” says Cash. “I almost got into trouble because of it. I was working so hard on preparing that my grades weren’t doing so good.”

The competition began Friday as fire crews were still attending to the smoldering First United Methodist Church, just a block away from the convention center. “Because of the fire, the trolley line was shut down, so competitors didn’t get to experience one of Memphis’ unique features,” says Rick Brennan with the Memphis Sports Council, the group responsible for luring the USFA. “But other than that, their stay has been a success.”