Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Pigs in a Blanket, Alton Brown, etc.

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Bon Ton Cafe offers Pigs in a Blanket on its lunch menu! I have nothing left to add, except that they’re $3.99.

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The Orpheum looked to be at near-capacity for the Alton Brown show last Saturday night. Brown was in fine form, very funny and quick on his feet. And while I thought there was a little too much feedback from the audience, one of the funniest moments came as Brown mocked those who like vanilla ice cream, saying something about owning Honda Accords. This was met with a shout from the balcony: “It’s a reliable car!”

What did you think of the show?

Here’s Brown’s feedback on Memphis.

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This cool-looking cake is called Memphis Mayhem and is available at the Cake Gallery downtown. It’s vanilla, chocolate, and red velvet.

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I’m loving the new-ish ramen noodle menu at Crazy Noodle. Included on the menu is cheese (!?) ramen.

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Gigi’s Cupcakes is offering holiday pies — Southern Comfort Pecan Pie and Ginger Snap Pumpkin Pie — for a limited time. They’re offered in the traditional 9″ or 3″ mini pie.

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I never considered a dessert tamale, but this pineapple tamale is very good, not too sweet. I got it at the Evergreen Community Farmers Market, which, sadly, is closed for the season.

Monday is National Sandwich Day. I know this because Goldbely.com sent out a press release with this fact and its top-ten most ordered sandwiches. Corky’s pulled pork sandwich is number 8 on the list, ahead of Zabar’s Reuben. Number 1 is Primanti Bros.’ Primanti Classic, which includes the genius combo of slaw and french fries.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Craig David Meek Writes the Book on Memphis BBQ

Craig David Meek is a former journalist, who’s been chronicling his quest to try every soul food and barbecue restaurant in the area on his blog Memphis Que.

Craig David Meek

  • Craig David Meek

The blog caught the eye of an editor at the History Press, with the result being Meek’s excellent Memphis Barbecue: A Succulent History of Smoke, Sauce & Soul.

The book begins with Hernando de Soto introducing pigs to the region and covers everything from such old-time Memphis favorites like Brady and Lil’s and the barbecue contest to Corky’s on QVC. There are some amazing moments in Memphis Barbecue — like Jim Neely speaking quite frankly about his TV celebrity nephew Pat Neely and John Willingham’s widow remembering the barbecue legend’s last day.

Memphis Barbecue will be released on Tuesday, June 10th, and there will be a launch party and signing at the Booksellers at Laurelwood that same day at 6 p.m. Related events include the Whole Hog BBQ, Live Music & Book Party at the Hi-Tone on Friday, June 27th and a book talk and signing with a barbecue tasting at the Cotton Museum Thursday, July 10th.

Meek took some to time answer questions about writing the book.

Writing the history of barbecue seems like a massive and daunting task. How did you figure out how to organize the book?
Meek: By writing a first draft that was a rambling mess, then going back through and putting everything in a more chronological order. I originally tried to organize it around different aspects of barbecue I considered important like craftsmanship, business, and tradition with different restaurants and competition teams used to represent different components of each aspect. It ended up reading like the world’s most disorganized barbecue restaurant guide, but reading over it I saw that I had the entire history of Memphis there if I reorganized it into the story of the city told through barbecue.

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You’ve been blogging about barbecue for three years, in working on this book, did you come upon anything that truly surprised you?
Looking into the history of William’s Bar-B-Q across the river in West Memphis and realizing how important the neighborhood around it was to the development of the electric blues and early rock-and-roll in the ’40s through the ’60s. That was the vibrant, late-night music scene where the early Sun artists really honed their skills during a period when the nightlife and music scene on Beale Street was surprisingly dead.

What was your favorite part about writing the book?
Since the blog was always done anonymously, with me just coming in as an average Joe and eating, I loved gathering the oral histories that went into the book. Going into the kitchens with people like Jim Neely at Interstate, Barry Pelts at Corky’s, Eric Vernon at the Bar-B-Q Shop, Craig Blondis at Central, and Helen Turner at Helen’s over in Brownsville and hearing their stories and letting them show me the work that goes into their food. Standing behind the counter with Flora Payne while she makes a spicy jumbo sandwich for me. Going down to the basement at Coletta’s to see the shoulders on the pit, then up to the kitchen to watch them make a fresh barbecue pizza and carrying that pizza straight to their Elvis room to eat it.

You very judiciously sidestep the question of your favorite barbecue places by saying it depends on the day, your mood, the weather, etc. Come on, man. You must have two or three places you frequent more than others. Spill it.
The Tops on Jackson Avenue is a few blocks from my house so their double cheeseburger with everything topped with two ounces of chopped pork would represent my most frequent barbecue order and it is a thing of savage beauty.

But really, I am in a different part of the Mid-South almost every day with my job, so I tend to have a favorite place to stop for each part of town. But even that gets hard to nail down. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been in the Fox Meadows/Hickory Hill area staring at my windshield, holding my keys, way overthinking the decision between a dry rib dinner from Leonard’s and a shoulder plate from Showboat. I know either will be perfect, but choosing one means missing out on the other that day. I’ve literally flipped a coin on multiple occasions.

Categories
Best of Memphis Special Sections

Best of Food & Drink

Alex Harrison

Buttery tikka masala, tender tandoori, spicy vegetable dishes, and all other manner of Indian specialties are served at Midtown institution India Palace in its airy, comfortable Poplar Avenue location.

We’ll admit we find it adorable when, in the “Best Chef” category,
you write in “My Wife,” “My Husband,” or, better yet, “My Mom.” (The
answer “Your Mom’s House” for “Best Romantic Restaurant” is not so
cute.) Chef Boyardee didn’t stand a chance with only two votes for
“Best Chef,” but at least he’s got bragging rights over Mrs. Winner
who, despite the name and the chicken and biscuits, got only one
vote.

Justin Fox Burks

Kelly English, Restaurant Iris, 1st place: ‘Best Chef’

Best Chef

1. Kelly English, Restaurant Iris

2. Erling Jensen, Erling Jensen the Restaurant

3. John Bragg, Circa

Last October, Food & Wine magazine named Kelly English
one of the Top 10 “Best New Chefs” for 2009. That was quite the honor.
Now Flyer readers have vaulted English to the top spot for the
first time.

Best Lunch

1. Huey’s

2. Soul Fish

3. Lenny’s

Hey, you know all those other restaurants that were in the running
for “Best Lunch” in Memphis? Stick a toothpick in ’em. They’re done.
Huey’s gets the nod for lunch nosh this year.

Best Breakfast

1. Brother Juniper’s

2. Blue Plate Cafe

3. Bryant’s Breakfast

Oh Brother, Wherefore Art Chow? Sorry. Brother J. has won “Best
Breakfast” many times, and it’s because they offer delicious,
innovative, homemade food in an eclectic space crammed with interesting
people, especially on weekend mornings.

Best Romantic Restaurant

1. Paulette’s

2. Le Chardonnay Wine Bar & Bistro

3. The Melting Pot

Maybe it’s the desserts. Or maybe the soft tinkling of the ivories.
Or maybe just the wonderful menu, nice wine list, and warm ambience.
Paulette’s is a classic.

Best Sunday Brunch

1. Owen Brennan’s Restaurant

2. Boscos Squared

3. Peabody Skyway — tie

Beauty Shop

Owen Brennan’s sits at the cusp of Germantown and East Memphis, but
it draws Memphians from all over for its New Orleans-themed Sunday
brunch: the best in town for 2009.

Best Wine List

1. Le Chardonnay Wine Bar & Bistro

2. Texas de Brazil

3. Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse

Le Chardonnay moved across Madison Avenue a couple years ago, but it
has retained its dark, ski-lodge-y charm, its extensive wine list, and
first place for “Best Wine List” in your hearts.

Best Steak

1. Folk’s Folly Prime Steak House

2. Ruth’s Chris Steak House

3. The Butcher Shop

Folk’s Folly valets meet you at the curb. Once inside, you hear
sweet piano-bar stylings and the sound of cold drinks and cocktail
chatter. But who are we kidding? It’s all about the steak here, and
Folk’s Folly’s steaks sizzle!

Best Barbecue

1. Central BBQ

2. Corky’s

3. The Bar-B-Q Shop

Central BBQ takes top honor in what is probably the toughest
category in this poll: “Best Barbecue.” No matter how you spell it
— barbecue, BBQ, Bar-B-Q, whatever — Central’s on top
again.

Best Ribs

1. Charles Vergos’ Rendezvous

2. Central BBQ

3. Corky’s

The Rendezvous is sometimes derided as a place where tourists go to
eat Memphis’ most famous food group (16 barbecued ribs), but the
Flyer‘s poll makes it clear that locals love the Rendezvous as
much as people wearing Elvis T-shirts. And well they should.

Best Burger

BOM 1. Huey’s

2. Earnestine & Hazel’s

3. The Belmont Grill

That “BOM” designation means Huey’s has won “Best Burger” for so
long that it’s not even fair to anybody else in the running. Lots of
places in Memphis make good burgers, but only one takes the top spot,
year after year after year.

Best Hot Wings

1. Buffalo Wild Wings

2. D’Bo’s Buffalo Wings-n-Things

3. Central BBQ

With five Memphis-area locations, 14 sauces (ranging in heat from
“Blazin'” to “Sweet Barbecue”), and TVs set to sports everywhere you
look, Buffalo Wild Wings is leading the city’s wing scene.

Best Fried Chicken

BOM 1. Gus’s Fried Chicken

2. Popeye’s Chicken & Biscuits

3. Jack Pirtle Fried Chicken

If you want to eat lunch at Gus’s, you’d better get there early.
Folks line up for the crispy, smoky, spicy uniqueness that makes Gus’s
fried chicken better than anybody’s in Memphis. Or in the world.

Best Cajun/Creole

1. Bayou Bar & Grill

2. Owen Brennan’s Restaurant

3. Pearl’s Oyster House

The Bayou, like its sister restaurant, Le Chardonnay, hasn’t missed
a beat by moving across Madison. It’s bigger, but it still has a nice
patio, cold beer, stellar gumbo, and lots of other Cajun
delectables.

Justin Fox Burks

Petra, 1st place: ‘Best Mediterranean’

Best Mediterranean

1. Petra

2. Casa Grill

3. Petra Cafe

What’s more Midtown than this: Greek-Korean fusion in a restaurant
housed in a former gas station/garage, with patio seating right next to
the pumps? Spanikopita, moussaka, falafel — Petra is Greek
delicious. And the Korean soups and kimchi are fabulous too.

Best Dessert

1. Paulette’s

2. Beauty Shop

3. Kooky Canuck

Restaurants come and go, but Paulette’s “K-Pie” is a constant. Rich
coffee ice cream in a pecan-coconut crust, topped with whipped cream
and Kahlua, the Midtown institution’s Kahlua-mocha parfait pie is a
classic but not their most popular dessert. That designation apparently
belongs to the restaurant’s hot chocolate crepe. With crème
brûlée, Key lime pie, and other desserts dotting the menu,
Paulette’s is where Memphians go for post-dinner sweets.

Best Italian

1. Ronnie Grisanti & Sons Restaurant (now closed)

2. Pete & Sam’s

3. Bari — tie —

Ciao Bella Italian Grill

Long synonymous with Italian dining in Memphis, Ronnie Grisanti’s
closed its doors in August after a 25-year run at its Chickasaw Oaks
Plaza location on Poplar. But Memphians won’t be without the Grisanti
family’s authentic Tuscan cuisine, which has delighted local diners for
generations. Most of the restaurant’s staff — including Ronnie
himself — will relocate to the family’s Germantown location,
Elfo’s, which will be renamed simply Grisanti’s.

Best Mexican

1. El Porton Mexican Restaurant

2. Happy Mexican

3. Taqueria La Guadalupana

In an increasingly saturated local Mexican food scene, El Porton
maintains the top spot with five area locations, quick, reasonably
price lunches, a diverse menu, a full bar, and happy-hour specials.

Best Chinese

1. P.F. Chang’s

2. Wang’s Mandarin House

3. A-Tan

National chain P.F. Chang’s became a big local hit when it opened
its lone Memphis location — on Ridgeway in East Memphis — a
few years ago. In P.F. Chang’s large, opulent dining room, patrons can
feast on a diverse array of Chinese classics such as Mongolian beef,
ginger chicken, and spicy dumplings.

Best Thai

1. Bhan Thai

2. Bangkok Alley

3. Jasmine

Located in a large, converted Midtown house (the former home of
restaurant Maison Raji), Bhan Thai offers intensely flavorful Thai
dishes — masaman curry, pad thai, crispy duck, coconut-milk-based
soups, etc. — in an elegant atmosphere full of character, from
its small, intimate dining rooms to its popular patio in the back.

Best Vietnamese

1. Saigon Le

2. Pho Saigon

3. Pho Hoa Binh

This no-frills Midtown eatery has a loyal clientele because of its
focus on the food, which includes authentic Vietnamese specialties
— fresh spring rolls, great pho soups, vermicelli and tofu
dishes, and plenty of vegetarian options.

Best Japanese/Sushi

1. Sekisui

2. Blue Fin

3. Sekisui Pacific Rim

Restaurateur Jimmy Ishii has come to define Japanese cuisine, and
particularly sushi, in Memphis. The local chain is celebrating its 20th
birthday this year, first opening its Humphreys Center flagship
restaurant in 1989 and now covering the city with five locations.

Justin Fox Burks

Soul Fish, 1st place: ‘Best Home Cooking / Soul Food’

Best Home Cooking/Soul Food

1. Soul Fish

2. The Cupboard

3. Blue Plate Café

For exquisite catfish and hush puppies and a big daily selection of
veggies, it’s hard to order anything else off of Soul Fish’s menu. But
try their smoked half-chicken, and you’ll be doubling up on meals to
satisfy all your menu urges.

Best Vegetarian

BOM 1. Whole Foods Market

2. The Cupboard

3. Jasmine

Whole Foods Market, a foodie oasis on Poplar Avenue in East Memphis,
is more than a grocery store. Its large prepared-foods section —
pizzas, sandwiches, salad bar, bakery, coffee and juice bar — and
dining area make it a popular lunch and dinner spot for vegetarians and
health-food enthusiasts, in particular. Whole Foods also offers cooking
classes to help you find interesting things to do with the fresh and
healthy items they sell.

Best Seafood

1. Tsunami

2. Bonefish

3. The Half Shell

The anchor restaurant of Cooper-Young does it again, taking “Best
Seafood” for the millionth year in a row. Scallops, sea bass, mussels,
you name it, Chef Ben Smith and crew deliver a ship full of great taste
in a sophisticated atmosphere.

Best Pizza

BOM 1. Memphis Pizza Cafe

2. Garibaldi’s Pizza

3. Old Venice

Memphis Pizza Café was an instant hit when it opened in 1993
and has since expanded its local pizza empire to five locations, all
serving tasty, crispy pizzas, including such faves as the white-sauce
“alternative” and the zesty Cajun chicken.

Best Deli

1. Fino’s from the Hill

2. Bogie’s Delicatessen

3. Young Avenue Deli

What says Midtown more than the intersection of Madison and McLean?
And what says a great deli sandwich better than Fino’s from the Hill,
on that very Midtown corner? In addition to the popular made-to-order
sandwiches — cold cuts, cheeses, toppings, all on good crusty
bread — Fino’s offers pasta dishes and grocery items. That’s
Italian!

Best Server

1. Jeff Frisby, Restaurant Iris

2. Michele Fields, Calhoun’s Sports Bar

3. Jean Pruett, Bardog — tie

Brent Skelton, The Kitchen

Jeff Frisby at Restaurant Iris must be doing something right. Last
year, he was named one of the city’s best servers in our Best Of poll.
This year, he’s done it again. Must be that Frisby knows not only how
to serve, he knows what to serve when it comes to vino: He’s Restaurant
Iris’ wine manager. (Factoid: All our winners in this category work in
Memphis’ new or newish restaurant/bars. Good to see Flyer
readers appreciate the city’s evolving food scene.)

Best Service

1. Chick-Fil-A

2. Texas de Brazil

3. Houston’s

Drive-thru or in-store, the crew behind the counter at any of
Memphis’ Chick-Fil-A locations have it down pat: your order in your
hands — fast. More amazing (and given the volume of business),
they do it, hands down, with the friendliest service in town.

Justin Fox Burks

Chick-Fil-A, 1st place: ‘Best Kid-Friendly Restaurant’

Best Kid-Friendly Restaurant

1. Chick-Fil-A

2. Chuck E. Cheese

3. Huey’s

We forgot to mention (see “Best Service”) that the crew at
Chick-Fil-A must have nerves of steel. As a new winner in the
kid-friendly restaurant category, these folks have what it takes when
children combine with fast food. Call it grace under pressure.

Best Local Late-Night Dining

1. Huey’s

2. Earnestine & Hazel’s

3. Young Avenue Deli

And we mean late. We’re talking, at several of Huey’s
multiple locations, a kitchen that’s open until 2 a.m. Don’t deny it.
At that hour and after some damage, what your body’s craving is a
burger and onion rings.

Best Place for People-Watching

1. Flying Saucer

2. Young Avenue Deli

3. Celtic Crossing

The corner of Beale and Second: The wide-open windows at downtown’s
Flyer Saucer aren’t there for no reason. Whether you’re in the
restaurant or passing on the sidewalk, this place was tailor-made for
people-watching. Evidence: During the Memphis Music and Heritage
Festival a few weekends ago, the place was jamming, inside and out.

Best Patio

1. Celtic Crossing

2. Boscos Squared

3. Cafe Olé

In a word: trivia. Celtic’s popular Wednesday-night tournament this
past summer had the patio packed. Any night, any season, though, will
do for a Guinness and some major hanging-out in Cooper-Young. Bonus
attraction: On this patio, you’re only a few steps from the scene on
the street.

Best Local Place That Delivers

1. Garibaldi’s Pizza

2. Young Avenue Deli

3. Camy’s

Another new winner in our Best Of poll: Garibaldi’s Pizza —
established 30 years ago by owner Mike Garibaldi — has three
locations for handmade pizzas, pastas, salads, wings, sandwiches,
sweets, and more. Garibaldi’s caters to not only what you’re hungry
for, according to readers, it really delivers.

Justin Fox Burks

Muddy’s Bake Shop, 1st place: ‘Best Bakery’

Best Bakery

1. Muddy’s Bake Shop

2. La Baguette

3. Fresh Market

Again: a new winner. And, according to Muddy’s website, if you’re
rude, whiny, impatient, or otherwise unpleasant, forget stepping inside
this bakeshop. If you’re green-minded and egg-headed (Muddy’s uses eggs
from cage-free, free-range hens), you’re welcome! Plus, who’s to argue
with a cupcake called “Prozac?”

Best Local Coffeehouse

1. High Point Coffee (now closed)

2. Otherlands

3. Café Eclectic — tie

Republic Coffee

High Point Coffee just closed. (It’s the economy, stupid.) But
Otherlands, Cafe Eclectic, and Republic Coffee — the hotshots
rounding out your picks for best local coffeehouse — havestill
got their vibe going and the caffeine coming.

Best Restaurant

1. Restaurant Iris

2. Tsunami

3. Huey’s

Iris: It’s in the eye of the beholder. Restaurant Iris, “Best
Restaurant,” according to Memphians who value fine dining. In the space
of a year, nationally recognized chef Kelly English has succeeded in
turning Restaurant Iris into the city’s go-to address for exceptional
French-Creole-inspired cuisine. Doesn’t hurt that the restaurant also
features first-rate service in an intimate, romantic atmosphere.

Best New Restaurant

1. Flight

2. Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen

3. Overton Park Pizze Stone

The interior’s gorgeous, but it’s the food at Flight that has
Flyer readers hooked — and voting. Flight’s “flights”
— a trio of tastings from the entrée, dessert, and wine
menus — make it a wonderful way to sample what’s cooking in the
kitchen. What’s on your table: small plates but great taste. Or you
want regular-size portions? No problem. You can order that way too.

Categories
Cover Feature News

The Quest for Fire

In the beginning there was nothing, and the universe sang the blues. But later, there was man, and it was good, and there was fire, and it was good, and there was pig, and it was good. And some good person (coulda been Adam, coulda been Eve) saw that fire and pig belonged together, and it was oh so good. (Funny story: Eve liked ribs so much she tried one of Adam’s. Meh, not much flavor.) In truth, nobody knows exactly where fire met pig, but everybody agrees on where it was perfected: Memphis, the Garden of Eatin’.

Fast-forward to today, when not only has the marriage of fire and pig been perfected in Memphis, it’s been perfected in many different
ways across the city. Barbecuing ribs is an art in Memphis, with many
masters finding delicious subtlety in some fundamental variations: dry
or dripping wet, spicy or sweet, spare or baby back ribs.

We here at the Memphis Flyer have taken upon ourselves the
enormous burden of seeking out the best of the best of the best in
Mid-South barbecue rib-ery. It’s a noble quest for fire and pig, we’ll
admit, and one not taken without some measure of sober reflection. With
a passive mien, we assumed the mantle of responsibility and trudged
toward our fates, each step heavier than the … oh, who are we
kidding, it was the most fun thing ever! The Flyer staff was
full of smiles — saucy, meaty-toothed smiles — for three
days, as we performed our self-elected duty.

Justin Fox Burks

Ten years ago, the Flyer conducted a similar contest,
sampling ribs from all over to find a winner. The story, published May
20, 1999, with a cover featuring Flyer writer Chris Davis’ belly
emblazoned with a saucy “Q,” found a tie at the top, with the best ribs
coming from Willingham’s and Corky’s, followed by Cozy Corner and
Pig-n-Whistle (honorable mentions: Gridley’s, the BBQ Shop, and
Rendezvous).

Volunteering for judging duty this time around were Greg Akers, Tess
Bailey, Mary Cashiola, Chris Davis, Chris Herrington, and Bruce
VanWyngarden. We cast our nets around the ribs from 14 must-sample
local establishments. We halved the list and held two qualifying
rounds, with a half-dozen finalists competing on a third day. Scoring
from the initial round did not carry over. The plate, as it were, was
wiped clean.

Unfortunately, one of the winners from a decade ago, Willingham’s,
is no longer with us. Thankfully, the ‘cue master from that
establishment, John Willingham himself, is, and he graciously agreed to
talk fire and pig with the judges and administer the rites of his Order
of the Apron. A multi-time winner at the Memphis in May World
Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest, Willingham is a nationally known
expert in the field.

Justin Fox Burks

John Willingham

Willingham preached the gospel of the rib, which has five basic
tenets: appearance, aroma, taste, chewability, and memory. On barbecue
sauce, Willingham said, “Generally speaking, people cover up that which
you love to see — it’s like a woman wears a dress.” And the
congregation (well, some of us), replied, “Amen.” Of barbecue judging,
Willingham said, “We wanted to make it formal but with an element of
freedom. I believe in the freedom of barbecue.”

With freedom in mind, the contest was fashioned after good ole
American democracy. Restaurants were not told that the orders of ribs
would be used for a contest: We judged the ‘cue that anyone can get on
any given day. Ribs were then assigned numbers, so the judges didn’t
know where they came from.

Armed with score sheets based on those used in the Memphis in May
contest (which broke down judging into four categories: Appearance of
Entry, Tenderness of Entry, Flavor of Entry, and Overall Impression),
our motley ‘cue crew got to work. Rib by rib, we employed all of our
senses to determine who has the best ribs in Memphis. Each judge had
his or her preferences, of course, but cumulatively we came up with a
final ranking. Who won? Read on, reader.

The Top Three:

Justin Fox Burks

#1 The BBQ Shop

1. The BBQ Shop: On the first day of testing, the BBQ Shop’s
rack of ribs scored well but only topped one of our six judges’
ballots. “Pulls off bone nicely, but a little dry,” one judge wrote.
“It has a different taste from any other rib. Unique, but I’m not going
to daydream about it. The meat is almost too subtle, but it’s there and
pretty good,” another decided.

In the final round, however, the BBQ Shop left our judges plenty to
daydream about, finishing in the Top 2 on five of six ballots and
excelling in every category. Appearance: “Big bones with meat on top of
the rib.” “An appealing color — warm blend of red and gold.”
Texture: “The texture couldn’t be more perfect. Stays on the bone but
comes off the second the tooth hits it — and moist!” “Terrific
chewability.” Taste: “Sweet, excellent sauce, with the flavor of the
meat emerging as you chew.” “Good blend of spices and good meat
flavor.” And overall: “Two-faced — wet on one side, dry on the
other. These are Hannah Montana ribs — the best of both worlds.”
One judged summed up the collective reaction: “I am very happy about
this rib.”

2. Leonard’s: The bold, heavy rub on Leonard’s ribs split our
judges on the first tasting. “The rub is too thick and salty. It
overwhelms the meat but has a nice hint of heat,” one judge wrote.
Another agreed: “Too much spice — it overpowers the flavor of
everything else.” Others were knocked out by the intensity: “Pops with
taste,” one judge gushed. “The dry rub is magnificently strong.
Fantastic. Wanted to eat all of it off the bone.” Another wrote,
“Wonderful, wonderful spice. Coriander? Mustard? Complex, smoky
flavors, but the flavor of the meat a little covered up.”

In the finals, Leonard’s seemed to find the right balance of spice
and meat: “Spicy, but doesn’t overwhelm the smoke, which doesn’t
overwhelm the meat,” one judge proclaimed. “Piquant, tangy with a nice
blend of sweet and smoky and an appealing aftertaste,” wrote another
judge. “Very spicy and tasty,” another agreed. “Just the right mix of
spice, heat, and saltiness, and not too sweet. Yummy.” Still, this is
one rib that is not for those who can’t take intense flavors: “I worked
this bone as long as I could, but you’ll need a beverage with it.”

3. The Pig on Beale: Neither as universally known as the
likes of Rendezvous or Corky’s, nor boasting the hipster/connoisseur
cred of Cozy Corner or Payne’s, The Pig on Beale is a relatively recent
entrant to the Memphis’ ‘cue scene, and it’s tucked away on Memphis’
most famous street, where music and nightlife tend to overshadow
food.

But our judges were impressed by the consistent, smoky, “pink to the
bone” flavor of the Pig’s ribs: “Too sweet and very little spice, but
the smoke is brilliant. The meat’s flavor swells in the mouth,” one
judge wrote. “Tender, smoky,” another said. “Tender and easy to bite
off the bone — a nice lean texture. It’s sweet on top and
smoky underneath. Good flavor,” one judge decided. The sweetness of the
Pig’s offerings was the only aspect that split our judges, though
everyone appreciated the beauty of the “dark, red, caramelized
exterior.” “It’s a dessert rib,” one judge wrote, capturing what seemed
to be a consensus of opinion.

Justin Fox Burks

Left to right: Bruce VanWyngarden, Chris Davis, Greg Akers, Chris

Runners-Up

Rendezvous: The spicy rub on this Memphis staple was a big
hit with our judges. “Looks good like a dry rib should, with whole
mustard seeds and crumbled spice that’s still green (!) amid the red
and black,” one judge marveled. “Very pretty with lots of spice on top
of what looks like a generous portion of meat,” another judge wrote.
But while our judges loved the spice, they were merely satisfied with
the rest of the package. “Brilliant spice mix on nicely grilled meat,
though it has very little smoke or other noteworthy characteristics,”
one judge decided. Another summed up the overall impression: “This
tastes like backyard-cookout ribs but in a good way.”

Pig-n-Whistle: The dark-glazed ribs from this suburban staple
drew a mixed reaction. “The sweet sauce overpowers the meat,” one judge
complained. Another cracked: “I don’t like having to forage my meat off
the plate from a puddle of sauce. But maybe that’s just me.” If one
judge thought Pig-n-Whistle’s sauce was a “cover-up,” another disagreed
by inverting Willingham’s aphorism: “The sauce, in this case, is like a
well-cut dress on a woman — it enhances.” And there was plenty of
agreement on this issue. “Good sauce flavor — rich, hearty, not
too sweet, and you can still taste the meat,” one judge wrote.

Interstate: On its first tasting, three different judges
praised Interstate’s tangy sauce as a nice complement to meat whose
“the texture is perfect — it pulls off the bone easily, but
doesn’t fall off. Moist, but not mushy.” “This rib has good flavor that
improves — swells — after you swallow,” another wrote.
A second tasting, however, drew criticism for the
“tomato-paste-looking” sauce that drew “dress-on-a-woman” complaints.
So Interstate suffered from inconsistency. Even on the second day,
however, two judges praised the “subtle heat” of Interstate’s ribs.

Honorable Mentions

(These contenders just missed making the finals in a close
vote):

Central BBQ: Several judges were taken aback by the dark
appearance of Central’s rack: “Looks burned, the appearance almost
makes you not want to eat it,” one judge wrote, echoing others’
sentiments. Some judges had a different reaction to the “as dark as my
coffee” appearance: “a dark rub with evidence of smoke on the bone. Not
pretty like a wet rib, but you can tell the meat’s going to be good
underneath.” Once judges sank their teeth into Central’s ribs, there
was a similarly split opinion. “Inconsistent, the taste is almost
oily,” one judge complained. Another thought their ribs had a “dry,
agey” taste. But others were impressed: “Good smoky flavor to the meat,
solid mix of spice up top,” one judge praised. “Meat is smoky and
juicy. The spice rub is subtle but gains over time, with a spicy kick
at the end,” another wrote. A third said the meat “pulls off the bone
just right, with a pleasant texture.”

Germantown Commissary: The chewy texture of Germantown
Commissary’s ribs was a consistent subject of either minor or major
complaints: “Tough and chewy, really chewy. This did not do it for me,”
one judge wrote. “The meat needs to be more tender,” another wrote.
“Sticks to the bone a little too much but has a nice texture to the
taste,” another judge wrote. Commissary scored well in other areas,
though: “Nice hint of smokiness and good balance of sweetness,” one
judge wrote of the flavor. “A solid rib, though not as spicy as it
could be. Lingers and improves. A subtle ‘cue that sneaks up on you,”
one judge praised. Another summed up the Commissary’s entry this way:
“Great overall performance in terms of taste and appearance but not as
tender as it could be. But I’ll remember this one.”

Cozy Corner: The first ribs tasted, our judges hadn’t quite
found their groove in terms of juggling messy finger food and
comment-writing, but two judges complained that Cozy Corner’s ribs had
too much fat, while another questioned the “petroleum aftertaste.” But
another described these thick ribs as “beautiful” and praised the
“great spice mix.”

We judged the following 14 restaurants. Click on a restaurant name to leave your own comments and reviews!

(*Denotes location where we picked up the ribs for this
contest)

A&R (1802 Elvis Presley Blvd., 7174 Stage Rd., 3721 Hickory
Hill Rd., *22 N. 3rd St.)

Blues City Café (138 Beale St.)

The BBQ Shop (1782 Madison Ave.)

Central BBQ (*2249 Central Ave., 4375 Summer Ave.)

Corky’s (*5259 Poplar Ave., 1740 N. Germantown Pkwy., 743 W.
Poplar Ave.)

Cozy Corner (745 N. Parkway)

Germantown Commissary (2290 S. Germantown Rd.)

Interstate (*2265 S. 3rd St., 150 W. Stateline Rd.)

Leonard’s (*103 N. Main St., 5465 Fox Plaza Dr.)

Neely’s (5700 Mount Moriah Rd., *670 Jefferson Ave.)

Payne’s (1762 Lamar Ave.)

The Pig on Beale (167 Beale St.)

Pig-n-Whistle (*2740 Bartlett Rd., 4265 Hacks Cross Rd., 6084
Kerr-Rosemark Rd.)

Rendezvous (52 S. 2nd St.)

Categories
Cover Feature News

The Memphis Olympics

Even though they won’t start until August 8th, the Beijing Summer Olympics already have generated controversy around the world. Human rights activists are urging a boycott of the games, turning what is usually an over-hyped athletic competition into over-hyped political football. (Sadly, football isn’t an Olympic sport, because, hey, we’d kick butt.) But I digress.

We here at the Memphis Flyer know that most of you will not be heading to China, no matter your political leanings on the subject. With that in mind, we’ve compiled some local versions of Olympic events for your amusement and edification. Because that’s how we roll. — Bruce VanWyngarden

The Parallel Bars

The competition is stiff along one block of Madison Avenue.

by Michael Finger

Arm muscles rippling, backs straight as arrows, legs braced securely, eyes straight ahead, concentration focused. It’s poetry in motion, and the awed spectators wonder just how long the participants can continue until they slip and tumble to the ground.

Oh sure, the parallel bars competition at the Olympic events is fairly interesting, but what’s that got to do with this? Here, we’re talking about the drinkers perched on the stools, lifting frosty mugs of Budweiser to their lips at a pair of “parallel bars” in Memphis: two Midtown landmarks named Old Zinnie’s and Zinnie’s East.

From the outside, Old Zinnie’s is a curiosity — a turreted building constructed in 1905 at the corner of Madison and Belvedere that over the years has housed a drugstore, a beauty parlor, and even a bicycle shop.

“We opened Zinnie’s in 1973 or 1974, right after Huey’s opened,” says Perry Hall, current owner of Zinnie’s East. “The original owner was a guy named Gerry Wynns. Everyone called him Winnie, but he didn’t like that name for a bar, so they named it Zinnie’s.”

Precisely 109 meters to the east (a distance sanctioned by the Olympics committee), Zinnie’s East is a newer establishment, a two-story brick structure erected on the site of a white cottage that was home to a classical-music bar fondly remembered as Fantasia.

So why build two Zinnie’s practically side by side?

“We thought we were going to lose our lease down at Old Zinnie’s, because the landlord kept raising the rent,” Hall says. “So we tore Fantasia down in 1984, and our plan was to just let the other place go and build a new one right here.”

And?

“We opened Zinnie’s East on February 14, 1985 — Valentine’s Day. And on the 13th we walked away from the old place thinking it would go downhill,” Hall says. “But it wouldn’t die! It just would not die. And now it’s become a haven for all the kids from Rhodes.”

Old Zinnie’s is now owned by Bill Baker. “Not the Bill Baker from Le Chardonnay,” Hall explains, “but the other one.”

Having two bars with essentially the same name, he admits, has confused customers.

“Old Zinnie’s is associated with just a beer and a hamburger, and for a long time people didn’t think we [at Zinnie’s East] did anything but serve beer and hamburgers.” Instead, the new Zinnie’s offers a wide-ranging menu, tasty plate lunches, and for those who care nothing at all about their cholesterol levels, a concoction called the Zinnie-Loney: fried bologna, Swiss cheese, and grilled bacon on a bun. Angioplasty costs extra.

Old Zinnie’s has some nice architectural touches inside, including a magnificent old bar with tile accents and illuminated stained-glass panels spelling out “Zinnie’s.” But “new” Zinnie’s (as it’s often called) features an underappreciated work of art — etched glass panels, designed by Memphis artist (and frequent Flyer contributor) Jeanne Seagle that, says Hall, “has the whole panorama of what Madison Avenue was like when we opened in 1985 — all the characters, from Monk to Dancin’ Jimmy.”

And there’s more. Upstairs at Zinnie’s East is yet another bar, called the Full Moon Club. It originally opened across Belvedere from Old Zinnie’s, then moved to the second floor of Zinnie’s East, taking over space that had been used for catering private parties.

Unfortunately, the Olympic judges refuse to acknowledge that the Full Moon Club and Zinnie’s East would qualify for the uneven parallel bars competition — it’s some silly technicality — but as far as parallel bars go, Old Zinnie’s and New Zinnie’s are both winners.

Synchronized Swimming

At the MJCC, water lovers find a multitude of choices.

By Mary Cashiola

In one corner of the pool area, boisterous pre-teens are giggling and riding clear rafts around a little “river.” Nearby, adults swim laps in roped-off lanes, kids fly down two-story waterslides, and teenagers dive off the springboard into a 12-foot-deep diving well.

Nestled among trees, condos, and office buildings, just a few hundred yards off Poplar on the Germantown/Memphis border, the Memphis Jewish Community Center pool is what you might call a water wonderland.

Originally built 40 years ago, the pool at the community center reopened last summer after undergoing several million dollars of renovations.

“The Jewish Community Center used to be downtown. When it moved here, the pool was built before anything else,” says aquatics director Danny Fadgen. “It’s on the same footprint, but we’ve added things like beach entries and the lazy river.”

They’ve added so much, in fact, that it seems more like a family water park than your garden-variety pool.

The lazy river is 286 yards around, with a five-mph current and sprinklers that shower users from above.

(Of course, it’s not lazy all the time. Sometimes the swim team practices in it by swimming upstream. Seniors exercise there, too, by walking upstream.)

Fadgen, who has worked at the center for 11 years, now sees three and four generations of families together at the pool.

“We never used to have that. We put in lots of ‘funbrellas’ and canopies that have created a lot of shade,” he says. “In years past, we didn’t have much shade, and it was too hot out there.”

But while shade is a compelling argument, it can also be said that there is a little something for everyone.

For the thrill seekers, 12,000 gallons of water gush through the red and blue waterslides — one completely enclosed — each minute.

For younger kids, there is what Fadgen calls the splashground — with a smaller slide, water cannons, and rope ladders — in about a foot of water. For toddlers, there’s a play area with sprinklers, a cushioned floor, and no standing water.

“When the pool was first built years ago, the place was packed wall to wall. You couldn’t find a chair,” Fadgen says. “A few years ago, with all the pools in town and in people’s backyards, our usage was going down dramatically, no matter what we did program-wise.”

They decided to invest in an upgrade, and the turnaround has been just as dramatic. On opening day last summer, about 2,000 people came through the gates. Even now, Fadgen says people call every day and ask if they have summer-only memberships. (They don’t.)

On weekdays, the aquatic center is used for swim lessons in the mornings and open to members from noon to 9:45 p.m.

Fadgen employs about 60 lifeguards on staff and has nine guards on duty for each shift.

In the past, he says, most of the assists — when lifeguards have to get involved — would happen when inexperienced swimmers first got more confident and left the shallower waters. Now, however, more than half of the pool area is only three feet deep.

“With all the attractions, people thought it was going to be more dangerous,” Fadgen says. “It has required more lifeguards, but it’s actually safer. We don’t have as much deep water as we used to have.

“Everybody’s just smiling from ear to ear,” he says. “Somebody with a backyard pool was telling me yesterday, ‘Everybody used to come to our place, and now we hardly see them.’ They all come here instead.”

The Snatch
and the Clean and Jerk

Even weightlifters need a little grooming.

By Bianca Phillips

Competitors in an Olympic weightlifting match vie for the quickest “snatch” and a flawless “clean and jerk.” But for those uninitiated in the sport, these terms could bring to mind other things, like bikini (“snatch”) and body waxing. (Get it? Clean, jerk.)

If you plan on being seen in a bathing suit this summer, you’ll need a little snatch waxing and clean jerking. (Hey, even weightlifters keep themselves well-groomed.)

According to esthetician Amy Gregory, the most popular waxing service at Midtown’s Hi Gorgeous salon is the Brazilian wax, which removes all the hair from the front and back of the, um, private areas. Ladies can keep a “landing strip” if desired.

If the very thought makes your hoo-ha hurt, Gregory also offers a half-Brazilian, which “leaves hair on the lady bits.” Other waxing services include underarms, legs, arms, back, chest, and various facial areas.

Gregory uses a hard wax that resembles a blob of honey and feels tacky to the touch. The warm wax is applied to the skin, and Gregory waits about one minute for the wax to cool before ripping it off in one quick jerk. Though most body parts can be waxed rather quickly, full-body waxing can take about three-and-a-half hours.

The 40-Year-Old Virgin has ruined so many people’s perception of waxing. People come in thinking it will be the most painful experience of their lives,” Gregory says. “It’s really not that bad. Please don’t watch that before you come in.”

Gregory says waxing is superior to shaving because it eliminates itchy stubble and razor burn, decreases in-grown hairs, and waxed body parts stay smooth for weeks.

Not an exhibitionist? No problem. Gregory performs her services, which also include facial and spa treatments, in a small private room near the back of the salon.

“I play cool relaxing music to make people feel comfortable,” Gregory says. “I’ve been playing a lot of Bjork lately. Today, it’s mostly been Bob Dylan covers.”

A few things to consider before you make a waxing appointment: 1) Hair must be 1/8 of an inch to 1/4 of an inch long before it can be waxed, 2) it’s a good idea to take ibuprofen first but stay away from aspirin as it thins the blood, 3) if you have long back hair, it should be trimmed before the appointment, and 4) take a shower beforehand.

“Please don’t come straight from the gym and make me wax you,” Gregory says. “Have some decency.”

Individual
Medley

Thomas Nolan fights fires, makes art, and grills great hot dogs.

by Chris Davis

A concerned-sounding customer leans on Thomas Nolan’s Court Square hot-dog cart, mopping the sweat from her melting face with a tissue. “I don’t know how you stand it,” she says, handing Nolan a moist wad of cash and greedily snatching from his hand a perfectly grilled six-inch dog with sauerkraut. “It’s so hot out here,” she adds, fanning herself with her dog-free hand.

“Oh, I don’t think it’s too bad,” Nolan replies affably. “Well, at least as long as the sun stays behind that cloud.”

Soon after the woman walks away Nolan expresses his true feelings on the weather.

“Sometimes I just want to tell people that it’s not really all that hot, and they don’t even want to know what hot is,” he says authoritatively, wiping down the surfaces of his shiny chrome cart until the sun’s reflection is almost blinding. When not hawking his hot dogs downtown or making abstract paintings at his fine-art gallery on South Main, Nolan works as a firefighter, so when he talks about heat, he knows what he’s talking about.

“I was on that one,” he says, nodding in the general direction of the gutted husk of the First United Methodist Church, which burned in October 2006.

“People don’t want to know what hot is,” he says, recalling the terrifying moment when the church’s steeple collapsed.

“I want one of your Memphis dogs,” says a regular customer, rushing by the cart without stopping. “I’ll be back to pick it up in a few minutes,” he calls behind him.

“He’s a believer,” Nolan says of the hurried man. “He bought a dog on the very first day I was out here, and now he comes by to get something at least every other day.”

Nolan didn’t have hot dogs in mind when he graduated from Southside High School in 1982. He had a baseball scholarship to LeMoyne-Owen College and dreamed of playing in the big leagues. Or of at least working as a professional artist. Or maybe both.

“I worked in a lot of restaurants,” Nolan says of his college days. “And I’m going to be cocky about it. I got really good at cooking. And if you’ve got something inside of you, you’ve got to let it out.

Nolan’s downtown hot-dog cart is part of his latest attempt to be all that he can be. He describes the high-intensity training he does for the fire department as filling the void that baseball once occupied in his life, and he calls dressing dogs an extension of his abstract painting.

“It’s all about the color,” he says. He begins building a Chicago-style dog by pulling a grilled all-beef kosher frank out of the fire and laying it gently on a bed of sweet neon-green relish. “There’s the green and the yellow,” he says, adding a squirt of mustard and a handful of whole pickled chilis. “And, of course, the red,” he continues, piling on thin slices of fresh tomato.

“It’s like I’m trying to bring a little bit of New York or Chicago to Memphis,” Nolan says. “I’ve got my cart and my park and my jazz,” he says, patting his radio.

“Man, what is that playing on your radio? Coltrane?” a man asks, walking up to the cart and ordering a Polish sausage.

“I don’t know,” Nolan answers. “It’s on satellite.”

“Well, I don’t know either, but it’s hot,” the man says, picking up a menu. The dog-man grins.

“Yeah, it’s hot,” he agrees, dropping a sausage down on the grill.

Thomas Nolan’s hot-dog cart can be found on Court Square for lunch most weekdays throughout the summer. He parks his stand outside of Raiford’s Hollywood Disco in the evening on weekends.

The
Memphis Marathon

The drive to impress visitors

can be daunting.

by Preston
Lauterbach

When the Persians invaded Greece in the fifth century B.C.E., a Greek soldier ran like hell from Marathon, the port on the Aegean Sea where the Persians landed, to inform Athenians of the victory of the Greeks over the Persians. The distance of the epic jog? Twenty-six miles. A legend and a test of athletic endurance were born.

This summer, a different invader will target the citizens of the Bluff City. They are a little girl cousin from suburban San Diego, a college roommate and her husband on their way from Austin to Atlanta, our friends and loved ones, descending on Memphis from all sorts of locales. Our task, once they land, is no less daunting than what befell that marathon runner: We must make a Memphis marathon.

We love the city’s grand trees and architectural splendor. And we’d prefer that summer visitors from out of town see only the same. This, like any summer Olympic event, requires great preparation and the will to negotiate obstacles, some unforeseeable, some so daunting as to appear impossible to overcome. If you can drive your visitor at the speed limit for 26 minutes without laying eyes on urban blight, you win. But while victory is sweet, participation is what counts.

Don’t worry. We’ll get the benefit of the doubt whether they’re driving or flying in, since airports in plenty of other cities are dumped at the fringe of town, and properties adjacent to freeway off-ramps tend to not be the most desirable wherever you go. The properly selected driving route represents the key to managing their impressions from there. Look, it’s not easy, but do you think that Greek runner sprawled out beneath a fig tree between Marathon and Athens, waiting for his manservant to feed him one of those plump bunches of grapes that seemed to grow throughout the ancient world? Hell no.

I’ve found that a Midtown departure point, while challenging, offers plenty of benefits. A little zig-zagging through Central Gardens can kill a good 10 minutes if properly milked. Then I head east across Cooper, maybe to Cox Street, or perhaps to East Parkway, meandering beneath grand oaks and betwixt charming old homes. Overton Park can be your friend, or it can utterly blow it for you. You’ll have to weigh that risk, taking into consideration the day and time of your roundabout. From there, lovely Evergreen welcomes you and holds hands with your party as you all skip gaily toward Belvedere.

Still, we must be at the ready with explanations for the unpredictable sights that can complicate a tour of city beautiful. (“He’s not a bum, he’s a … performance artist.”) Don’t ever count yourself out, though.

The
Triple Jump

A trip to Beijing takes
preparation and perseverance.

by John Branston

Day-dreaming of a trip to the 2008 Olympics in Beijing in August? You’ll need a solid-gold bank account, the endurance of a marathon runner, and the agility of a gymnast. A coach-class airline ticket on Northwest Airlines starts at around $1,700, and the trip takes 23 to 40 hours. You’ll rack up more than 16,000 miles round-trip.

Memphis’ Loujia Mao Daniel is something of an authority on distance travel. She was born in Beijing in 1972, came to Memphis in 1996, and has made five trips back home to visit her parents, who come to Memphis in alternate years. Plus, she’s a flight attendant for Northwest who’s apt to be called on short notice to pack up for an international flight.

Growing up in a tiny apartment in China when Chairman Mao was still alive, Daniel remembers writing stories in elementary school about what China would be like in the year 2000. She never imagined that Beijing would host the 2008 Olympics or that she would come to the University of Memphis to study economics.

Unless you’re University of Memphis basketball ambassador John Calipari or a pilot for FedEx, traveling to China is still pretty exotic. For starters, you need a visa from the Chinese embassy in Washington, D.C., or Houston, and you must either apply in person or get a travel agent or friend to take your passport to the embassy in person. The visa fee is $130 per person. Daniel says the quickest way is to do it yourself and to get to the office before 10 a.m.

From Memphis, you fly to a gateway city such as Detroit, Minneapolis, or San Francisco, then on to Tokyo, and from there to Beijing or Shanghai. Going over, you’ll arrive on the second day. Coming back, it will be the same day when you get home, or what Daniel calls “the longest day.”

To combat jet lag, she strongly recommends using mileage awards to upgrade to business class, with reclining seats and good food and less chance of being seated near restless small children. But she still allows herself a 24-hour recovery period after exceptionally long trips.

Olympic venues are scattered all around Beijing, which is “very congested, like Tokyo.” Daniel recommends booking a four-star hotel, which can be obtained for about $100 a night.

“It’s a cash society,” she says. “You’ve got to bring cash, because 90 to 95 percent of businesses don’t take credit cards.”

She suggests hiring a Chinese university student who speaks English as a personal tour guide, because Beijing is huge and public transportation is “always packed.” Don’t go to small restaurants or drink tap water, to avoid getting sick.

And make sure you have Olympics tickets lined up. They are hard to get, even for the Chinese, who have to go through a pre-sale process before they even have a chance to bid for limited tickets to prime events. “It might be easier to buy them in the United States,” Daniel says.

Rings

Deep-fried competition

at its best.

by Greg Akers

Over in Beijing this summer, a bunch of fit folks are going to dazzle an international audience with feats of muscular grace. One such event you’ll be subjected to is the gymnastics “rings” competition, where athletes grasp a pair of circles suspended in the air and commence to swing themselves up, down, and around — with the occasional awe-inspiring mid-flight holding pattern thrown in, where they make their bodies into a cross and stay in position for a few agonizing seconds.

Screw those guys.

In Memphis, “rings” means one thing: onion rings. It’s deep-fried athletics at its best. Nobody, not even Wikipedia, knows who invented onion rings. But it takes a city like Memphis to make the eating of them worthy of Olympics competition.

Unlike with the International Olympic Committee, in Memphis rings, there’s no governing body and no standardized set of rules and regulations. Everybody offers their own twist on the spherical sport, with variations coming from size and type of onion used and batter and seasoning distinctions.

Rings athletes must always exercise judgment when choosing their venue. Among the best rings in the region are those found at Belmont Grill, Bigfoot Lodge, Huey’s, and Velvet Cream — and they’re all different from each other.

The rings at Belmont Grill taste like Zeus handed them down from Mount Olympus. Eating them requires an uncanny mind that can overcome circular logic and a well-developed hand-eye coordination that will help you stick the landing.

Bigfoot Lodge’s rings have a touch of local flavor: They’re served with a side of barbecue sauce. Acrobatic dipping will score you extra artistic points from jealous sidewalk judges.

If you think bigger is better, Huey’s is your game. Theirs are rich brown behemoths that put the “Oh!” in onion rings. And if you order the Grand Daddy Huey Burger, you’re going to get served — two hamburger patties topped with a ring.

The world traveler should hot-foot on down to Hernando, Mississippi, to Velvet Cream — called “The Dip” by seasoned veterans — and flex your muscles with their rings. Make it a biathlon and enjoy one of their famous shakes, freezes, or slushes.

Though the Olympic rings event is for males only, in Memphis, the competition is gender neutral. It doesn’t matter if you’re representing Team XX or XY. Anybody can give rings a sporting chance.

Many rings competitors are actually two-sport athletes. At Corky’s BBQ, you can get the “Onion Loaf” — a tower of onion rings — which merges a pair of Olympic events: rings and the pole vault. It’s strictly for the serious competitors who don’t consider rings a mere game.

Never forget, though, that rings is no spectator sport. It’s all about your teammates: Though there’s an “I” in rings, that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t share!