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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Spice Krewe

Spice Krewe isn’t a group of Mardi Gras revelers, but it does include three “kings.”

James Williams, Andy Johnson, and Gary Windham are founders of the Memphis-based spice company, which specializes in seasonings for crawfish and seafood boils.

Spice Krewe is one of the sponsors of Donuts & Dogs 5 Miler!, a fundraiser for Streetdog Foundation, that will be held April 23rd at Wiseacre Brewing Company at 398 South B.B. King Boulevard. Free samples as well as for-sale products will be featured.

Williams, 45, said his love for crawfish boils began when he was majoring in finance at Mississippi State University. His fraternity would do crawfish boils on Super Bulldog weekend. “It was basically the start of spring season. We would do big crawfish cookouts.”

They used commercial crawfish boil seasonings. “Nothing gourmet and nothing out of the ordinary.”

After moving to Memphis in 2000, Williams and his wife, Keshia, attended local crawfish boils, but the portions were small. They’d only get a pound or so of crawfish with some sausage and a piece of corn. “Definitely not what I was used to, eating crawfish.”

In 2010, Williams began holding his own crawfish boils at home. About 15 people got together and cooked around 40 pounds of crawfish. Team members cut up the potatoes, garlic, lemon, and oranges. They just used a commercial seasoning.

As the crowd began growing, Williams and his team began experimenting with seasonings.

They began ordering their crawfish seasoning from a company in Louisiana. But they had to scramble when their order was short in 2018 because their crawfish cookout was the next day. They came up with their own blend off the top of their heads.

It was that same year when the team decided to create its own unique blend. They wanted a mixture of Cajun, which is more salt, cayenne, and black pepper, and Creole, which includes mustard, coriander, and oregano.

“We built a spreadsheet. We took a bunch of Creole seasoning blends and a bunch of Cajun seasoning blends and put them across our spreadsheet and found commonalities where we could tweak.”

They eventually came up with their own seasoning blend. “It’s the mix of spices that are in it. They’re very unique in the mixture. But I would say it’s a little more of a savory flavor than just heat and salt.”

Williams, Johnson, and Windham launched Spice Krewe on Feb. 21st — Fat Tuesday — 2023. “It’s pretty much online only. We’re working on getting shelf space in some places.”

Crawfish season can last from January to July, but Spice Krewe seasonings also are good on “shrimp, fish, chicken, any kind of meat. A lot of people put it on eggs, hash browns, and in soups.”

Spice Krewe now offers four blends. According to the website, Bayou Blend is “an all-purpose Creole seasoning that’s the perfect mix of spicy and savory. This blend is carefully crafted to complement any dish, whether you’re cooking up some jambalaya or just adding some extra flavor to your roasted vegetables.”

Bayou Burn is “hotter than the Bayou Blend and gives your dishes an extra boost of heat.”

Bayou Seasoned Salt is “a tamer version of our Bayou Blend, perfect for those who prefer less heat and more salt.”

The Bayou Boil bag is “specifically designed for seafood boils. This blend is a perfect mix of seasonings that take the flavor of your seafood boil to the next level.”

Williams has already come up with 55 more seasonings. “I thought what we’d try to do is one or two actual releases a year. But maybe put out three or four or five or six as samples for people to try and do market research. What works best.”

They’re also discussing offshoot products like roux. “Maybe even dry mixes. Like doing our own jambalaya.”

And they’ve created a Spice Krewe step-by-step crawfish cooking method for beginners. They also offer names of places where people can buy pots, boilers, and other crawfish cooking equipment. “It’s not just about being a spice company. We want to bring the experience to people.”

To order Spice Krewe products, go to spicekrewe.com.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Mud Bug Master

Glaze Hardage cooking crawfish is as much a harbinger of spring as daffodils, king cakes, and baseball spring training.

Unless it rains, Hardage cooks crawfish and shrimp outdoors on Saturdays at Max’s Sports Bar and, beginning March 19th, on Sundays at Loflin Yard.

Describing his opening March 4th crawfish boil at Max’s, Hardage says, “We sold everything we had. We did 150 pounds of crawfish and 60 pounds of shrimp.”

Now is prime time for crawfish, Hardage says. “Crawfish season is between Super Bowl Sunday to the end of May.”

A West Memphis, Arkansas, native, Hardage grew up with crawfish. He liked the taste of the spicy crawfish, but, he says, “Having that little lobster in front of you, there was something cool about that as a kid.”

Hardage learned early on how to eat crawfish. “One of my friends taught me back when I was younger. He said, ‘You just gotta pinch the tail and suck the head.’ So, you twist the tail away from the body and kind of pull it. And it will separate the tail from the rest of the body. And then you can suck the head for the juice and spice and flavor that are inside of that crawfish.”

You basically only eat the tail meat unless the claws are big. Then you “can get some meat out of them as well.”

Hardage perfected his crawfish cooking skills when he was in Kappa Alpha fraternity at Arkansas State University. Some fraternity brothers taught him how necessary it was to get the crawfish good and clean. “And then you want to get your water hot and season it with a crab boil seasoning and lemons, onions, garlic, butter, and some hot sauce.

“Once you get the water seasoned and to a boil, you add your crawfish. And once you add your crawfish, you give it a stir and you wait till your water comes back to a boil. I would say light boil. And then you cut it off. And you want to either put some ice or some frozen corn or something in that water to drop that water temperature. Because what that does is it shocks that shellfish and makes it kind of absorb that flavor and sink to the bottom of the pot.”

He then lets the crawfish soak for about 20 to 30 minutes to absorb the flavor. “After that, you dump them in the cooler and you’re ready to go.”

Hardage experimented with different techniques over the years. Like “adding a little bit more cayenne and celery salt and stuff like that to increase the flavor and the heat.”

He began cooking at Max’s about eight years ago. “My wife works at the Arcade. We would hang out at Max’s.”

Owner Max Lawhon asked what Hardage thought about doing crawfish boils at Max’s. “We started off boiling a couple of sacks.”

It “blew up” the next year with about 300 people showing up at his first boil that season. “Word kind of got out, I think. We moved down into the pit area behind the bar and set up more tables and chairs. And it was a big party.”

He and his buddies, Ricky O’Rourke and Dax Nichols, team up to do the boils each week. His Instagram is @glazescrawfish.

Hardage added shrimp because it’s “a little less spicy than the crawfish. We’ve got people that don’t really care for crawfish ’cause they say it’s a lot of work for a little bit of meat. The shrimp is more bang for your buck, if you will. More meat, less work. Whereas, I believe crawfish is a labor of love.”

And, you might say, Hardage is his own best customer. “I always have to test out the crawfish every batch I pull to make sure I know what I’m doing.”

Max’s Sports Bar is at 115 G.E. Patterson Avenue. Loflin Yard is at 7 West Carolina Avenue.

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We Recommend We Saw You

School of Rock, Moxy, Crawfish

Jon W. Sparks

I tried my Schroeder (as in ‘Peanuts’) stance at the piano, but I still failed my audition and I didn’t manage to get in School of Rock

If you haven’t heard one of the School of Rock house bands perform, make sure you do. They’re amazing.

I wrote about the school’s owner, president, and operator, Marc Gurley, years ago when he was in Dust for Life and Southbound. Now, he’s helping young people learn everything from the fundamentals of playing an instrument to performing live on stage and transitioning into a professional musician.

School of Rock includes Memphis, Germantown, and Wolfchase schools. Each school has a general manager. “Roughly 500 students between the three schools,” says Gurley, who opened the Memphis school in 2013. He later acquired Germantown and recently got Wolfchase. All are franchises of the worldwide School of Rock, which has over 250 schools around the world.

I went to some of the school’s recent shows featuring School of Rock students and I was blown away. Brown Eyed Girl, which I’ve heard a million or so times, sounded so fresh and, well, great. That was at a show featuring the Memphis house band as well as the Germantown house band at Newby’s. These bands gig around town and tour across the country.

I also went to a show, which was held at Lafayette’s Music Room, that featured students from the Memphis school performing together on stage.

The next part of that show featured students paired with members of noted Memphis bands: Lucero, FreeWorld, Marcella & Her Lovers, The Dirty Streets, Chinese Connection Dub Embassy, and Star and Micey. “We’ve only done that twice,” Gurley says. “It’s hard to pull off and find flexibility in the musicians’ schedules.”

But it’s important, he says, “that in a city that’s so rich in music heritage that we also pay tribute to what is happening currently.“

And it’s also important to expose the students to great Memphis performers, Gurley says.

Harlan Hutton, a graduate of School of Rock, went on to form her own band. Harlan is “a former student that goes to school at Rhodes and has a successful band that is touring: Harlan. She learned her craft and really came to us at the beginning. She had been a hard core dancer all her life and was on that path and she chose to take a different path. Her guitar playing and songwriting, we feel a big part of that.”

Other respected members of the Memphis music scene taught at School of Rock. These include Joshua Cosby, Jeremy Stanfill, and Geoff Smith from Star & Micey.

Gurley has great memories of being in bands. “It led me to where I belong – doing this and not being on the road. ‘Cause that was not my path – being on the road and touring – although it’s awesome. I ended up where I needed to be.”

Michael Donahue

Bass player Caleb Crouch and drummer Bry Hart

Michael Donahue

George House brings down the house at Newby’s.

Joshua Cosby performs with School of Rock students Hadley Donaldson and Jose Espinal at Lafayette’s Music Room.

Michael Donahue

Kosten Goldberg

Michael Donahue

Drummer Hopper Harmon and his pop, Jamie Harmon.

Michael Donahue

Marc Gurley

Michael Donahue

Will Presley, Memphis School of Rock instructor, show director and house band director.

Michael Donahue

Atlanta and Valentine Archie at Moxy Coming Out VIP Party

“Moxy” means “confidence” and “courage.”

So, the Moxy Memphis Downtown hotel lives up to its name. It’s the opposite of a traditional hotel. There are no “bellmen,” “deskmen,” or other hotel job titles. All employees are referred to as crew members. Their uniform consists of jeans, T-shirts, and tennis shoes.

The hotel at 40 North Front Street held its “Coming Out VIP Party” March 5th.

“The purpose was really to announce to the Memphis area that we’re here and to show Memphis what we’re all about,” says operations manager Ryan Marsh.

To help them announce, the hotel featured a range of activities, including henna tattoo artists, a tarot reader, “drag queen bingo,” fire performers, live music, deejays, a Gibson’s doughnut wall, a taco truck, and more.

There were about 400 attended, Marsh says. “It was a huge hit.”

If you missed it, you still can take advantage of Moxy Memphis Downtown gatherings beginning in April. “We will start every Friday and Saturday to have a live band or deejay in our public space,” Marsh says.

“Public space” is Moxy’s word for “lobby.”

Michael Donahue

Moxy Coming Out VIP Party

Michael Donahue

Moxy Coming Out VIP Party

MIchael Donahue

Moxy Coming Out VIP Party

Michael Donahue

Moxy Coming Out VIP Party

Michael Donahue

L. R. and Peggy Jalenak at Moxy Coming Out VIP Party

Michael Donahue

Gregory Averbuch, Noe Cerrato, Susan Covington, Ryan Marsh at Moxy Coming Out VIP Party.

Michael Donahue

Curtis Pandas and Ryan Marsh at Moxy.

Michael Donahue

Harbinger of Spring IV: Crawfish. Glaze Hardage is on the job at ‘Glaze’s Crawfish’ at Max’s Sports Bar.

Crawfish definitely is one of the harbingers of Spring.

Glaze Hardage and his business partner, Ricky O’Rourke, began selling boiled crawfish February 1st at “Glaze’s Crawfish” at Max’s Sports Bar in the South Main Arts District.

“I think we did about 270 [pounds] that day,” Hardage says. “We’re there every Saturday that it’s not raining until June. The bar opens at 11. We start serving at noon until about 4 or 5.”

You’ll know when Hardage is at Max’s. “Look for the crawfish flags flying out front on Saturdays.”

His boiled crawfish comes with corn, sausage, and potatoes. And, he says, “We use pineapples. And we have a special seasoning blend we call ‘G Bomb.’”

I asked Hardage to tell me what was in that special seasoning. “A little this. A little that.”

His crawfish comes from Billy’s Crawfish in Southaven. “He brings them up about three or four times a week from South Louisiana.”

Crawfish will get cheaper, Hardage says. “As the season progresses our prices will drop as the price of crawfish drops.”

Max’s provides a variety of libations to wash down the crawfish. “Max’s is also the home of the $2.75 PBR pint. Along with a good assortment of whiskies. And they also have frozen drinks.”

During most of the rest of the week Hardage is a cook at Blink, the restaurant in Southern College of Optometry. His mother, Melissa Williams, is the chef.

Hardage will concur crawfish is a sign of spring. And March 20th – the first day of Spring   – is a special occasion in another way. “My birthday is the first day of Spring. Next Friday.”

Michael Donahue

Glaze Hardage and Max Lawhon, owner of Max’s Sports Bar.

Michael Donahue

Ricky O’Rourke

Michael Donahue

MIke Mustapha dresses the part at Max’s Sports Bar.

                                         WE SAW YOU AROUND TOWN
Michael Donahue

Amy LaVere and Will Sexton at Antique Warehouse.

Micihael Donahue

University of Memphis soccer team members at Gibson’s Donuts.

Michael Donahue

Linda ‘Miss Linda’ Foster at Kroger.

Michael Donahue

Trey Greer and Ken Stinson at Gibson’s Donuts.

Michael Donahue

Fiona Estes and Bruce Marshall at Calvary Waffle Shop.

Michael Donahue

Louie Gettings, Dawson Hardesty, and Clayton Brown at Gibson’s Donuts