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Free Falling … With Beer

Cold and dark, the fall weather is falling in line with our favorite fall beers. Autumn brings big transitions. Tropical IPAs and shandies give way to stouts and porters, those golden, carefree rays of summer unable to penetrate their contemplative depths. Yes, drinking seasonally is about variety, says Clark Ortkiese, co-founder of Crosstown Brewing Co., but it’s about seasonal psychology, too.

“As the seasons change, our psyche changes,” Ortkiese says. “Your mindset is so different. As you get towards winter, you get more complacent. We’re all kind of hunkering down.

“In the summer, you’re at the pool or you’re at a concert; you want a beer that you’re going to carry with you. It’s crushable. You want to have lower gravity because you’re having fun with your friends. In the winter, you are more likely to be sitting, cold in a bar or at your house, and you’re drinking something strong. So you want to sip it. You want to get that alcohol buzz.”

(Photos: Chris McCoy)

For this year’s fall beer guide, we rounded up a bunch of the best Memphis seasonal beers. All are available in cans almost anywhere you can find finer beers.

Some brewers haven’t liked all of our staff comments in past beer guides, but our crew was asked to be honest. We taste and comment, not as beer experts, but as the typical Memphis beer consumer.

But we did have expert help. This year Ortkiese helped us to understand the different styles and to pick out flavors of the beers we tasted in an undisclosed Midtown backyard as a few staffers drank beers from a cooler and wrote about them — as part of their job. Hell yeah.

There are plenty of new and seasonal beers to love on this list — and we did love many. But don’t take our word for it. Light out into the dark cold and taste some for yourself. — Toby Sells

Meddlesome Brewing Co.
Stupid Good Seltzer

Sassy, tangy, light. If TikTok was a drink, it would be Stupid Good. — Bruce VanWyngarden

Oddly enough, it’s fitting that we began our Fall Beer Guide tasting with a hard seltzer. True, it’s not actually a beer, but Meddlesome’s Stupid Good Seltzer comes on like the last hurrah of summer. In Memphis, home of Falsetober, where the seasons are indecisive at best, one last sip of summer isn’t out of place. Still, this would taste better poolside or after mowing the lawn. Bring on the falling leaves — and the darker beers please. — Jesse Davis

In true seltzer style, this tastes like a hint of the fruits on the label. If you shout “Orange! Passion fruit! Guava!” from another room and add a kick of carbonation, this is that. As a seltzer fan, I love it. — Shara Clark

Tastes a bit flat, but the fruit flavors aren’t too strong, which I like. Doesn’t have that weird tinny taste like a Truly or White Claw. An excellent seltzer for summertime, by the pool or at the beach. Maybe not for fall, though. — Samuel X. Cicci

When you crack open one of these, it smells like a Bath & Body works hand sanitizer exploded, and to be frank, it tastes like one, too. — Abigail Morici

This 4.5 ABV seltzer features an unusual combination of flavors: orange, passion fruit, and guava. It smells like baby aspirin and tastes like LaCroix sparkling water. I’m not a hard seltzer drinker, but I would choose this over White Claw. — Chris McCoy

It’s dry, light, and bubbly. It’s a well-done, grown-up seltzer. — Toby Sells

Grind City Brewing
Poppy’s Pils

Non-assertive, eager-to-please, needs seasoning. The intern of beers. — BV

Poppy’s Pils American Pilsner is light, crisp, and bubbly. Here we have another example of a good pool beer. This pilsner invites some flavor to the party, but it’s not enough to make your taste buds do a double take. With the lower alcohol content and unobtrusive flavor profile, Poppy’s Pils would be a good fit for a music festival. Remind me of this one when Memphis in May rolls around again. — JD

This smells more like beer than it tastes? There’s cold carbonation on my tongue but not much flavor. Seems like the type of beer you could shotgun pretty easily because it goes down like water. — SC

It feels like I’m drinking a domestic light beer. Not much taste, and a very thin, watery substance to it. Perfect if I’m rolling up to a frat party or a game of beer pong … but I’m not in college anymore. — SXC

A golden color in the glass, at least it looks good. Are pilsners supposed to be nearly tasteless? If so, this one is a success. — CM

This does what pilsners are supposed to do. As for flavor, it’s three shades paler than Tiny Bomb. — TS

Crosstown Brewing Co.
Hatch Me Outside

This one’s crispy with a light smoky flavor and a touch of heat. And it works. How ’bout that? — BV

With this brew from Crosstown Brewing, we ratchet the intensity up a notch. Hatch Me Outside is a darker golden color. The brewery uses Hatch peppers, roasted on-site, which give the brew a faintly smoky flavor. Taken with the spicy kick from the peppers, this is the beer to grab for taco night. My advice? Swing by Crosstown to snap up a six-pack, cruise down Summer Avenue in search of tacos, and you’ve got a recipe for thankful taste buds. — JD

Welcome to FlavorTown! This is pepper-forward, for sure. Initial taste reminds me of the pepper sauce you pour over greens. All I need now is a plate of hot wings. — SC

A blonde ale but with Hatch green chile in it! The taste reminds me of my days growing up in New Mexico. The batch seems a bit spicier this year but never threatens to overtake it. My favorite beer. — SXC

It’s like they took Hot & Spicy Cheez-Its and liquefied them, and I do like me some Hot & Spicy Cheez-Its. Turns out, I like them in liquid form, too. — AM

Crosstown Brewing has refined this recipe after last year’s debut. There’s no hint of the peppers in the smell, but the flavor is richer and deeper, with just a hint of spice. It’s no longer a stunt beer but a mature product. — CM

Wiseacre Brewing Co.
Moon Biscuits

Foamy head with a malty finish. Deep amber color. Good fire pit beer. — BV

As a fan of amber ales, I was predisposed to like Moon Biscuits. With a darker amber color, a biscuity thickness, and a hint of sweetness, this brew feels like a solid pick for a porch beer session in jacket weather. The Georges Méliès “A Trip to the Moon”-inspired can art doesn’t hurt Moon Biscuits’ chances of ending up in my shopping cart. — JD

This kinda reminds me of eating dessert. Would totally drink this while admiring a full moon. — SC

The best part of this beer is the orange/red color, like a fall sunset. I love amber beers, and this one is drinkable, but not particularly outstanding, flavor-wise. — CM

A warm, winter-holiday pastry in your glass. — TS

Beale Street Brewing Co.
Born Under a Bad Sign – Memphis Mule

I love Beale Street Brewing’s Hopnotizing Minds and Love & Hoppiness beers, so I know I’m a fan of that brewery. That said, Born Under a Bad Sign did not do much for me. It’s got a minty flavor that was an automatic “no” from me. This brew might be for someone, but that someone isn’t me. — JD

Incredibly confusing for my palate. Lime, peppermint; sour, minty. Somehow these don’t seem to belong together. — SC

This one is all over the place with hints of ginger, lime, and peppermint. Slightly too busy. Needs to settle down and behave itself. — BV

Lime? Peppermint? Ginger? What? I’m no opponent of strange flavor mixes, but there’s a lot going on here. It’ll reel me in out of curiosity, but whew, I’m not sure I can handle a whole can. I’ll leave it to the more adventurous types. — SXC

You can tell from the title that there’s too much going on with this beer. It has little carbonation, no legs, and smells like menthol. It’s confused, gimmicky, and kind of a mess. — CM

Yes, there’s a lot going on here. But Beale Street said so on the can. The ginger/peppermint thing hits in a holiday way. — TS

Hook Point Brewing
Cat Shot Kolsch

A little cloudy in the glass. Crisp and tasty and finishes with a light bitterness. It can sleep in your lap. — BV

Beer! It tastes like beer! This is an unassuming brew. It’s a kölsch, which Crosstown Brewing’s Clark Ortkiese, our guide on this beer-tasting adventure, explained is a hybrid between an ale and a lager. Cat Shot is light and a bit bitter. It’s less adventurous than some of the brews on display, but that might be a good thing. Cat Shot is tasty without quite being a favorite. I don’t mean to be catty, but it’s not quite the cat’s meow. Or the cat’s pajamas. Good though. — JD

This would be more of a summer beer for me. As bitter as your ex. — SC

A bit bitter? Are they supposed to be this bitter? Not quite what I want from a kölsch. — SXC

Kölsches are somewhere between ales and lagers, kind of a light version of an Altbier. This one is a little more bitter than most kölsches, so if that’s your jam, you might like it. — CM

Hampline Brewing Co.
Bock Seat Driver

Starts out sweet and finishes with a woody flavor that’s not at all unpleasant. It can take the wheel. — BV

The Bock Seat Driver is more than just a punny name. This beer packs an 8.8 percent ABV punch, so if you’re drinking these, you better be prepared to sit in the backseat. (Please drink responsibly and don’t drive.) Hampline’s offering has a darker amber color, and it’s a little cloudy. It’s a little malty, a little sweet, and would be a nice addition to a build-your-own six-pack of local fall brews. — JD

Woah! A lot going on here. Big flavor. Sits on the tongue like an inflatable water slide. What does that mean? I’m not entirely sure. — SC

Huh. Interesting. Very malty, but a little on the fruity/sweet side for a bock, personally. But it did get me thinking about some cool punny names if I were ever to make a bock. — SXC

There’s not much to the nose in this bock, but when you taste it, it becomes a big-ass beer with a light mouthfeel, although it’s a little on the sweet side. At 8.8 percent ABV, Bock Seat Driver is an intense experience. — CM

This bock is sweet and clean. At 8 percent ABV, there’s no surprise it’s a bit boozy, too. — TS

Memphis Made Brewing Co.
Plaid Attack

Sure, and it’s a smooth beer, me laddie. Non-aggressive and laid-back. A muted plaid. — BV

Plaid Attack had the deck stacked against it before I popped the top on the can. First, Memphis Made’s Fireside is one of my favorite beers. Second, High Cotton’s Scottish Ale is something of the local gold standard for the style. So I was pleasantly surprised when I enjoyed this one. Again, we see a darker amber color. Plaid Attack comes on with a mellow beginning, with a tang to the aftertaste. This would be a good beer for soup night. — JD

Super carbonated, and light and drinkable for a Scottish, in my opinion. I could drink this one year-round. — SC

It’s a solid Scottish Ale, but I just can’t avoid comparisons with High Cotton’s take, which is king in this town. Now, Fireside, on the other hand … — SXC

I wouldn’t say I have a mature palate by any means, but the aftertaste from this tastes a bit like pool water — specifically pool water from a rich person’s pool. Maybe I drank too much pool water as a kid, but I didn’t hate it. — AM

The label says Scottish ale, but the color is more like an amber, and the mouthfeel is on the lighter side of the spectrum. Still, it’s a pleasing, if pedestrian, drink. — CM

High Cotton Brewing Co.
Chocolate Rye Porter

A rich, dark, chewy brew that will ride along nicely from fall into the cold months ahead. —BV

This porter smells like chocolate. It’s sweet, but not overwhelmingly so, and lighter than you might expect when looking at the dark brown color. Another great porch beer, when temperatures dip below 70 degrees, I’m heading for High Cotton’s Chocolate Rye Porter. This is one of my favorites of the night. — JD

Get out your head lamp and gather the kindling. This is the beer for your fall fire pit. — SC

Not that sweet, which is nice, and intermingles chocolate and some coffee notes, dare I say. A fairly heavy blend that goes down pretty smoothly. It’s a perfect beer to sip while sitting around a campfire or fire pit. One might say a perfect beer for fall. We have a winner! — SXC

I had low expectations for this one — I like to keep my chocolate separate from my beer. But I have to say, I could go for seconds and thirds of this. — AM

No Memphis breweries do dark beers better than High Cotton, and this one is dark AF. More chocolate, less rye, this is a rich, thick beer that eats like a meal. This is what I want when I’m sitting around a fire, and it’s the only beer I went in for seconds during our outdoor tasting session. — CM

This beer is a time machine straight to the heart of the holidays. Chocolate, spice, and everything nice. — TS

Ghost River Brewing Co.
No new Ghost River releases could be found during our beer guide shopping trip. But their Grind-N-Shine Coffee Cream Ale is fall in your glass all year long. It’s light, frothy, and the coffee flavor is not hard to find. Easy to drink. Easy to enjoy. — TS

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Beer for the Wiesn at Crosstoberfest Saturday

Can’t make it to Munich for Oktoberfest but still want to celebrate? Don’t fret. You’ll be able to sample German-style beers at Crosstown Brewing Co.’s second annual Crosstoberfest.

“It’s probably the best opportunity to get the full-on German Oktoberfest experience, but in Memphis,” says Clark Ortkiese, owner of Crosstown Brewing.

While this one-day celebration isn’t as long as Germany’s official multiple-day beer-drinking holiday, guests will feel like they’re in Germany, with authentic decor, stein-hoisting competition, bratwurst-eating competition, live German music, and more. All of this with their seasonal Crosstoberfest festbier or the summer seasonal German pilsner, Terraplane, in hand makes for a prime in-town Oktoberfest getaway.

Crosstown Brewing Co.

Raise a stein at Crosstoberfest.

A craft beer tent will offer free samples of Crosstown Brewing’s German beers and other brews, and beer representatives will be available to answer questions.

“Bell’s Brewery [from Michigan] will also be there offering some of their wares, like a brown ale and their Oktoberfest beer,” says Ortkiese.

To soak up all of the tasty brews in your system, an array of food trucks and booths, such as Flying Saucer and New Wing Order, will be on-site.

“And one of our neighbors, Next Door American Eatery, will be here,” says Ortkiese. “They’re good friends of ours, and we love hanging out with them.”

Crosstoberfest is open to the whole family, with live performances by Mighty Souls Polka Band (with Sean Murphy of the Mighty Souls Brass Band) and DJ Oompahstar, shopping, and a multitude of children’s activities, like face painting, pumpkin decorating, and an Art-Toberfest crafts area for coloring and painting.

The best part?

“This event is free to attend,” says Ortkiese. “That’s been a big part of the things that happen at Crosstown Concourse that we love.”

Crosstoberfest, Crosstown Brewing Co., Saturday, October 12th, 11 a.m.- 7 p.m., free.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Crosstown, Memphis Made Will Brew Resilience IPA

I heard about this fund-raiser on the radio yesterday, so it’s pretty cool to see that Crosstown Brewing is picking it up.

Sierra Nevada is brewing Resilience IPA as a fund-raiser for the California Camp Fire relief effort, donating 100 percent of beer sales. In addition, they’ve asked brewers to join them and have gathered malt, hop, and yeast donations as well to help. So far, more than 1,000 breweries have stepped up.

From the release:

In our first year at Crosstown Brewing Company, we’ve learned a lot about the impact that breweries can have on our communities. We’ve been thrilled to see local groups and charities use our space and our products to make this city a better place. When we saw that one of the largest and oldest craft breweries in the United States, Sierra Nevada, was taking steps to bring the American brewing community together to help the victims of the California fires, we knew we wanted to be a part of it. We will brew Resilience IPA and serve the beer in our taproom in the coming weeks. All proceeds will go directly to Camp Fire relief efforts in Butte County, California. So far, more than 1,000 breweries nationwide have heard the call and are taking action. Helping the victims of this tragedy reminds us that we can help people in any part of the world and reinforces the strong bonds and generosity that attracted us to the brewing community in the first place. Please join us in showing the people of California that they have friends here in Memphis, Tennessee.

UPDATE: Memphis Made announced yesterday they will brew a 10-barrel batch of Resilience IPA. The beer will be available in the taproom by the middle of next month, Memphis Made said on Facebook, “with 100% of the proceeds going to the Sierra Nevada Camp Fire Relief Fund.”

Crosstown, Memphis Made Will Brew Resilience IPA

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Here for the Beer

It’s around 4:30 p.m. on February 16th, opening day for Crosstown Brewing Co. Two lines stretched from the bar to the back wall. The place was packed.

Was this what Crosstown Brewing founders Clark Ortkiese and Will Goodwin pictured when they ditched their old lives — Ortkiese in something that has to do with chain-link fences and Goodwin in sand and gravel — to parlay their backyard brewing hobby into a livelihood?

Ortkiese and Goodwin certainly had a vision. They wanted to tap into Crosstown Concourse’s vibe. They saw neighbors walking to a brewery. Folks in their 20s and 30s, on the grass areas and the patio behind the building. “Bring your dog. Hang. Enjoy some beers; enjoy the sunshine,” says Ortkiese.

From backyard to Crosstown — Clark Ortkiese (left) and Will Goodwin

But first the logistics. Originally, they planned to be inside the concourse. With one million square feet, there should have been plenty of room. But being in the building would have meant driving beer through an atrium and down a hall to access a loading dock. Concourse pillars would have to be removed to accommodate the brewery. Chris Miner of Crosstown suggested building their own space on land behind the concourse.

They’ve got 10,000 square feet. At front is the taproom, designed by Hope Martin of gbsn Design. The mood is industrial, the furniture modular — the better to make room when crowds reach from the bar to the back wall.

The beer is brewed in a large brew room with gleaming equipment — 600 gallons at a time. The beer is available in retail spots, restaurants, and bars. Currently on tap are Crosstown’s two signature brews that will always be available: the Siren Blonde Ale, what Goodwin calls a “straightforward beer that you can take anywhere.” The brewery even sells a cool sling that holds a six pack, perfect for picnics and other outdoor events. The Traffic IPA is notable for its citrusy notes of tropical fruit and mango. Also currently on tap are the Crosstown Brown, which tastes of caramel and coffee, and the Boll Weevil Saison, with a floral/herbal finish but without the overly bitter taste associated with a saison.

The beer is brewed by home-brewing buddy Stephen Tate, whom they lured back to town from another brewery in Alabama.

One thing they had to figure out is how to scale up from backyard to industrial carbonators in a professional setting. They hired a consultant for that.

Ortkiese says one thing that separates Crosstown Brewing from the pack is its marketing and branding by Tom Martin. The Siren can comes in hot red and gold with aliens and spaceships that shout Metropolis. The Traffic has a warm turquoise-y blue with eyes looking at a rear-view mirror and hands clutching a steering wheel. They look like they could use a beer.

Ultimately, though, Ortkiese says it boils down to the beer. “Our beer is as good as anybody’s in town,” says Ortkiese. “Once you taste it, you’ll want to come back for more.”

Crosstown Brewing is open Wednesday through Friday, 4 to 10 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday, noon to 10 p.m.

Crosstown Brewing 1264 Concourse Avenue, 529-7611

Around this time last year, a name was engraved on an old gray ice bucket and presented to the winner. This year, the same thing will happen, another (same?) name on the same ice bucket. It’s like the Stanley Cup.

The Flyer‘s annual Beer Bracket Challenge launched last week. 28 beers going for glory.

Last year’s winner was Ghost River’s classic Gold, the old reliable of Memphis Beers.

This year, three new breweries are heading into the fray: Meddlesome, Crosstown Brewing, and Boscos. Toby Sells explains that Boscos, while not new, wasn’t included last year because he featured only breweries with beers readily available in stores and bars/restaurants. But this year he figured, “You like beer, you need to have Boscos.”

Round One began last week, with the Final Two starting Wednesday, February 28th, at 8 a.m., and running through March 1st, midnight. The winner will be announced in the Flyer‘s March 8th issue.

Sells says he has plenty of favorites among the 28, though he’s not rooting for one beer over the other. “There’s so much good stuff out there. We’ll see how it goes.”

In addition to revealing the winner, the March 8th beer-iffic cover will examine the state of the Memphis beer scene. Can Memphis accommodate more breweries and beers from outside the area? Have Memphis beer-drinkers changed since the scene exploded in 2013?

Check it out and stay tuned for Beer Bracket-related events.

If you are serious about whiskey, you should seriously already have your tickets to the Flyer‘s Whiskey Warmer, set for March 23rd at Overton Square. Twenty-five-plus whiskeys will be available to sample. Those include George Dickel, Old Dominick, Johnnie Walker, Bushmills, Wild Turkey, and more. There will be food from Babalu, live music, and cocktails, with proceeds going to Volunteer Memphis. Tickets are $34 and can be bought at whiskeywarmer.com.