Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Pearl’s starts afresh; DejaVu to open second location.

When Joe’s Crab Shack closed its downtown location in 2006, Pearl’s Oyster House on South Main quickly stepped in to fill the void.

But, as new manager and chef KC Lambert tells it, service and quality slowly declined over time. Loyal patrons visited less and less. Lambert, who joined the restaurant last summer, is on a mission to restore Pearl’s status as a quality seafood and Creole restaurant on South Main.

“A lot of people kept coming in, hoping it would get better, and it just didn’t,” Lambert says. “We’re trying to take it back where it needs to be. Consistency, great service every time, no exceptions, a great product at a very fair price, and showing some loyalty to our customers.”

Lambert brings to Pearl’s a career of hotel and resort experience that he has already used to book more banquets and dinners in the downstairs event space — which comes with its own separate bathrooms, pool tables, and a full bar. He’s also revamped the menu, refining their seafood options.

“We’re a full-on seafood restaurant now,” he says. “It’s not just oysters, shrimp, and crab legs. It’s fresh fish. We have corvina, snapper, grouper, tuna, swordfish, halibut. Whatever’s being caught.”

Pearl’s has a Sunday brunch now, complete with seafood twists on brunch staples, like a blackened catfish Benedict, a chargrilled-oyster omelet, and crab cakes topped with a poached egg and Creole hollandaise.

A new lunch menu with lower prices and additions like the vegetarian po’boy (marinated grilled zucchini, squash, peppers, and onions served on a hoagie) are other ways Lambert hopes to lure former fans and new faces to Pearl’s.

“It’s about making portion sizes meet fair price points,” Lambert says.

Lunch prices range from $5.99 to $9.99, and dinner from $7.99 to $17.99.

Longtime patrons shouldn’t worry about missing their favorites. Lambert isn’t touching classics like the chargrilled oysters, doused with garlic chipotle butter, sprinkled with Parmesan cheese, and set ablaze on the open grill behind the bar.

“I just focus a lot on cooking techniques,” Lambert says. “Searing correctly, sauteeing correctly, grilling correctly, baking correctly. I think that’s what’s made the difference in our food in the last few months. We really focus on quality products cooked with the proper techniques.”

Pearl’s Oyster House, 299 S. Main (522-9070)

pearlsoysterhouse.com

Come this May, if you drive from 936 Florida Street to 51 South Main, you’ll experience a bit of DejaVu.

Cajun/Creole restaurant DejaVu is expanding, maintaining its original location on Florida Street and opening a second spot next door to Flight in the heart of downtown. The target date for opening this second restaurant is May 1st.

“We needed a larger location, and we wanted to have more visibility in the area,” owner and chef Gary Williams says.

They’ll have a full bar and the same Creole soul menu — including plenty of vegetarian and vegan options — that fans are accustomed to at the Florida Street location. But Williams says they will also have space to expand their offerings, adding items like beignets and coffee and chicory.

“We’re going to be more visible, get more foot traffic,” Williams says. “And we’re going to bring the same great taste we’re doing here to downtown.”

DejaVu, 936 Florida (942-1400)

dejavurestaurant.org

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Lunch at Dejavu

There was some pre-ordering angst at our table at Dejavu … there were just too many things that looked good.

After considering the vegetable plate, Greg decided on the andouille sausage po-boy with red beans and rice.

poboy.jpg

Categories
Cover Feature News

Meatless ‘Cue

In the land of dry rub ribs and pulled pork, it seems that a
vegetarian would be out of luck. But a handful of Memphis restaurants
offer meatless alternatives to the traditional pork-based ‘cue.

Central BBQ’s portabella sandwich features a giant marinated,
char-grilled mushroom, which the cooks generously coat with tangy
barbecue sauce. The result? A messy, almost-meaty sandwich that
prevents vegetarians from feeling left out when dining with their
omnivore friends. (Vegans should request no coleslaw or cheese since
those come on the sandwich.)

R.P. Tracks on Walker Avenue serves up large fried cubes of sweet
‘n’ tangy barbecue tofu in three ways: on nachos, in a burrito, or
piled onto a bun. Their BBQ Tofu Nachos are likely the most popular
vegan menu item in town — black beans, tangy barbecue tofu,
lettuce, tomatoes, jalapenos, and salsa top crispy, seasoned tortilla
chips.

The BBQ Tofu Burrito features a similar list of ingredients, plus
rice, stuffed into a larger-than-one-person-should-eat tortilla. Tofu
cubes meet coleslaw on a bun with their BBQ Tofu sandwich, but be
warned: It’s nearly impossible to fit into your mouth. I typically take
the top bun off and eat the sandwich open-faced.

Downtown’s Déjà Vu Creole Soul Food and Vegetarian
Restaurant specializes in both vegan and meaty Southern staples, so it
follows that they make a mean platter of sweet and spicy barbecue tofu.
Fried tofu cubes are smothered in sauce and served with a choice of two
sides, among them citrus spinach, garlic roasted potatoes, smothered
okra, and fried cabbage.

Not only does vegetarian barbecue save little piggies from
slaughter, it’s also lower in saturated fat.

But both meat and non-meat barbecue have at least one thing in
common: You’re going to need a wet nap.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Dejavu Open for Business

At the Flyer, we are a mix of vegans, vegetarians, and carnivores, so we’ve been checking regularly on the progress of Dejavu, a new downtown restaurant offering healthy and affordable food for all types of eaters. “Call me if they’re open,” urged a co-worker as we headed out to find the restaurant, tucked behind D. Canale Beverages on Florida Street.

Apparently, plenty of other customers have been anticipating the latest culinary partnership between vegetarian chef Bastet Ivery and Creole chef Gary Williams, formerly of Java, Juice and Jazz.

“We’re already serving 45 or 50 people a day,” Ivery says, explaining Dejavu’s daily menu of Creole soul food (grilled tilapia, shrimp po boys, smothered pork chops) and vegetarian specials (barbecue tofu pizza, citrus spinach, vegan crab cakes). “We know this: People follow good food.”

Once a small church, the refurbished brick building already feels like part of the neighborhood, thanks to affable employees and delicious food. The prices help, too: $6.99 for one meat, two sides, and corn bread.

Entrées (both Creole and vegan) change every day, emphasizing seasonal foods, natural ingredients, and organic produce when possible. Side items offer a list of familiar favorites updated with the chefs’ secret spices: greens, bok choy, okra, grilled cabbage, roasted garlic potatoes, and candied yams.

“We use quality ingredients for all of our food,” Ivery says. “Even our Creole food is made without white flour or iodized salt. People are looking to eat healthy, whether they eat meat or not.”

The same standards apply to the restaurant’s desserts, including vegan choices such as carrot raisin bread and cheesecake, and more traditional selections baked by Ivery’s mother, Lea Robinson.

“My mom’s a Southerner, and she knows how to make a coconut cake,” Ivery says.

For now, the restaurant is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. and closed on Sundays. “We are hoping to expand our hours,” Ivery says, “but we want to get a feel for the area first.”

Dejavu Creole Soul Food and Vegetarian Restaurant, 936 Florida (942-1400)

by Pamela Denney