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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Art, Drinks, and Copulating Lizards

Until recently, I never really felt comfortable in what I like to call “living room bars” — the type of space, usually dubbed a speakeasy, with deep, communal couches instead of traditional tables and stools. I always felt like I was crashing someone’s private party when I walked in the door. With limited seating options, I’d usually perch on the arm of a couch, or, somewhat uncertainly, flop down into an unoccupied chair as other bar patrons continued their conversations around me.

Yes, I could handle the couch that sat near Charlie Miller’s Elvis Matador painting and the Vampirella poster at the Lamplighter, but any casual seating arrangement beyond that was a lot for me to negotiate.

Crosstown Arts

The Art Bar

That said, I do love the environment at Dodici, the upstairs lounge with artisan cocktails that is accessible by a set of stairs inside Bari. Yes, sometimes I do feel like an interloper when I jog up the stairs to discover a full crowd, but when I’m early enough to grab a seat, I feel, well, like I’m home somehow — or in the home of a good friend who has a deft touch with artisanal cocktails.

I also feel at home at the intimate upstairs bar at Earnestine & Hazel’s, where, illuminated by twinkling fairy lights, bartender Nate Barnes mixes drinks. Once served, visitors tend to wander, settling down in the various eclectic, sparsely-furnished rooms that were once used by brothel workers.

The newly opened Art Bar at the Crosstown Concourse has been the real game-changer for me. Located in a somewhat hidden series of rooms on the second floor (start at the top of the red staircase, and look for the narrow entrance near Crosstown Art’s gallery spaces and Green Room performance space), Art Bar takes the intimate living room lounge concept to the next level.

Crosstown Arts’ Amanda Sparks decorated the bar with pet-themed “found” art — think porcelain Persian cats positioned on a coffee table beneath paint-by-numbers of English setters and Siamese cats. An interesting — dare I say intoxicating? — cocktail menu by bar manager Bart Mallard adds another creative layer.

Since it opened at the beginning of September, I’ve visited Art Bar numerous times: to catch up with old friends, to meet first dates, and to while away a few hours playing gin rummy. I’ve watched total strangers have fun, and, much to the amusement of a particularly sweet Tinder date, I’ve walked inside to discover that I know 95 percent of the bar’s inhabitants. I’ve sat at the edge of a chair for candid conversation, sprawled on a couch to shuffle playing cards (these, of course, featured fluffy kittens), and drank enough tequila to give me a vicious hangover. Headache and dry mouth aside, Art Bar has served me well on all occasions.

The cocktail menu itself can be disconcerting. Ordering a drink called “meditation of copulating lizards” with a straight face is tough on a blind date. Does the drink reference the sinister Aleister Crowley or bring to mind Night of the Iguana by Tennessee Williams? I just want tequila in my glass, please — and while the cactus pear and jalapeño honey combination sounds delicious, I prefer to gesture to the printed menu rather than utter the drink’s name aloud.

Mallard’s concoctions are delectable, but don’t be afraid to order more traditional drinks if that’s your preference. A few weeks ago, I sipped a bit of my drinking partner’s Old Fashioned and was astonished by how smooth it tasted. Maybe I could go back to brown liquor, after all.

The winding space — some rooms feel as narrow as a hallway; others are wide and open — feels easier to navigate once you have a few of Mallard’s drinks under your belt. I’ve picked up my drink and wandered through Art Bar like I was some part of Hemingway’s Moveable Feast, nodding to the Memphis-based artists and writers that have come like moths to a light to occupy this unique place.

Art Bar is open Tuesday through Saturday nights, beginning at 5 p.m. Check it out for yourself. Like the best living room bars in town, the not-so-serious vibe lends itself to some serious fun.

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Food & Drink Food Reviews

Up the Stairs to Bari’s Intimate Dodici

Imagine being led up a dark stairwell by a man of small stature with only a few candles to light your way, unsure of what awaits you at the landing above. Is this one of those Game of Thrones nightmares? Not in my case. The man of small stature was not Tyrion Lannister, but Matteo Severs, age 9. What awaited me at the top of the candle-lit stairwell was not death or any sort of mutilation (or marriage, for that matter), but a delicious cocktail. Welcome to Dodici, the heavily spirited, super-secret speakeasy from Bari Ristorante.

Dodici is the latest dream-come-true from Jason and Rebecca Severs (parents of aforementioned maître d’ Matteo), the owners behind Bari at 22 S. Cooper in Overton Square. Formerly an artist’s studio, the upstairs space has been transformed into a cozy, luxurious bar with delectable, carefully crafted cocktails from mixologist/magician (mixomagician?) Vincent Hale.

Calling them cocktails is hardly fair to the drinks, as they are truly works of art. Dodici is the Italian word for 12, the amount of people Dodici can seat. “We named it that to convey the intimacy of the space,” Rebecca Severs says. “It’s still Bari, but we added a room and wanted to give it a name.”

If it sounds exclusive, it is. But this is not a snobby place. Vince welcomes each patron with lively chatter and an in-depth description of each cocktail that is ordered. He handmakes nearly everything, from the ice to the bitters to the syrups. Each liquor is selected by Vince himself, and it is likely something you’ve never heard of. And if you and I have never heard of it, that’s pretty much a guarantee that your in-laws from Collierville won’t infiltrate this place. “When Vince came on board, we quickly realized he has such a unique and clever mind for mixology,” Rebecca says. He doesn’t disappoint.

Dodici is accessible from a “secret door” inside the Bari enoteca (loosely translated, that’s “wine library”). If Dodici is full, you are invited to stay at the enoteca downstairs until a spot upstairs is available. Once upstairs, you take your pick of velvety armchairs or a barstool at the handmade bar (also courtesy of Vince). If you’re lucky, Matteo himself will escort you.

On the menu, Vincent has included an “amaro rapido.” He describes it as a new style of mixing a drink. It translates to “rapid bitters,” and he builds the bitters in front of the patrons. Atop the bar he has several dishes of spices, barks, and seeds, including cinnamon, Angelica, cardamom, and even beet powder, for color and sweetness. Most bitters take months to sit and stew, but Vince’s bitters come together in front of you. “It’s much more aggressive,” Vince says. “Built quickly, you taste every little nuance; it’s much more active.”

The rapid bitters is ground up and mixed with gin and bourbon, double-strained into a coupe glass, and garnished with a sage leaf. “The bar is almost like an apothecary at this point. I can base a drink on a person’s palate and build to suit,” Vince says.

He’s also making a drink from aquavit, a Scandinavian spirit not offered in Tennessee. Because he is handmaking the aquavit, each batch will be different from the last. Similar to gin, it is driven by dill and caraway and backed by autumn spices and barks before being mixed with sugar and absinthe. “You can’t taste it anywhere else in the world,” Vince says. He is affable and funny and there are no dumb questions when Vince is behind the bar, which bodes well for someone who had no clue what aquavit was until he told me. (Now I feel all fancy!)

Dodici will stay open later than Bari’s downstairs bar, meaning that anyone arriving after closing time will have to be let in by Vince. This will probably eventually be done by phone or callbox, so bear with them while they work it out. The good news is, you can enjoy amazing craft cocktails until the wee hours, as long as Vince is willing to let you hang out. Dodici is open on Friday and Saturday nights at 5 p.m. It’s available for rental for private parties. The bar will begin offering meats and cheese plates within the next couple of weeks. Cocktails range between $14 and $15.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Bari’s Speakeasy Bar Opens this Weekend


Bari Ristorante e Enoteca
 will open a new second-floor bar to the public this weekend.

It’s a speakeasy called Dodici. The name means “12,” a nod to how many the bar seats. Seating is first-come, first-serve.

Vincent Hale will man the bar, and there will be craft cocktails and nicer bottles of wine.

Dodici is open Friday and Saturday, starting at 6 p.m. The bar can be rented out for private parties.