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Food & Wine Food & Drink

BBQ+

Beyond death and taxes, there are two knowns in life: 1) Everything tastes better fried, and 2) barbecue is what Memphis does best.

This is a story about deep-fried barbecue.

A&R Bar-B-Que, named for Andrew & Rose Pollard who founded the restaurant in 1983 as fast-food take-out, has a motto, “Anyone can put the heat to the meat, but only a few can barbeque.” This bold attitude can be tasted across the menu, but the fried barbecue pies take it to a new level.

The barbecue pies are not pretty, but they are tasty. Wrapped with a light and flaky pastry crust, they are definitely hearty enough to be a meal. The filling is generously packed inside the pastry, and it isn’t unusual to get two pies for the price of one because the first one burst open while being fried. The chunky but bite-sized meat is heavily coated in sweet barbecue sauce (unless you order hot) and definitely takes center stage.

Available only at the original location in Whitehaven, the barbecue pies are made to order. Choose from beef, pork, or turkey; hot or mild sauce; and even add cheese if you like. The cost is $5.45.

For more traditional pie lovers, A&R serves apple, peach, and sweet potato fried pies at all of their locations.

A&R Bar-B-Que aandrbbq.com

The Stuffed Truck, which hit the streets last spring, was a combination of owner and chef Derek King’s three loves — fiancée Hannah Bailey, food, and business. The menu, designed to “stuff” its customers, is American fusion with a focus on gourmet burgers and empanadas. Empanadas are made by folding dough or bread around stuffing, which usually consists of a variety of meat. Among the stuffed offerings is a barbecue empanada with slow-smoked, pulled pork coated in King’s own barbecue sauce and topped with fresh-made coleslaw. The result is a tangy and perfectly crisp hand-held meal.The only menu item more popular than the barbecue empanada is the slow-roasted pork carnitas empanada stuffed with slow-roasted, spicy shredded pork, lime juice, fresh cilantro, and chili powder.

The pastry is sourced from New Orleans, but everything else is completely homemade. Each empanada is gently folded by hand and is a feast for the eyes. You can get one for $5 or two for $8.

Stuffed Truck • stuffedtruck.com • @ GetStuffedTruck

Kooky Canuck, which is best known as the “Home of the 4lb Burger” and corresponding “Kookamunga Challenge,” is also in on the fried-pork action, although in the form of an eggroll. Their signature BBQ eggrolls ($7.99) are described as “an Asian favorite with a Kooky Canuck twist.” The barbecue and slaw are wrapped tight in an eggroll wrapper and fried a golden brown. The result is a crispy, savory sensation. They are perfectly tasty on their own — the dipping sauce is merely a bonus.

Owner Shawn Danko says he and Sean McCarty came up with the concept back in 2004. “We were making Asian Lumpias, or spring rolls, one night when we looked at one another and said, ‘What do you think about adding barbecue pork and coleslaw?'” They did just that, but soon discovered that the spring-roll wrapper was far too delicate for the combination. Thankfully, eggroll wrappers worked just fine.

The eggrolls have been on the menu since day one and sell quite well. “We have emails from around the world asking us to send barbecue eggrolls anyway possible,” Danko says.

Kooky Canuck • 97 S. Second • 578-9800 • kookycanuck.com

The Double J Smokehouse & Saloon has its own take on the barbecue eggroll. Double J’s infused meat is full of rendered fat and has a really strong smoke flavor. They are seriously not kidding about being a smokehouse. The smoked pork eggrolls ($7) are super fat, almost burrito-esque, and bursting with the signature meat and house-made slaw. The accompanying sweet chili sauce is really no match for the smoke, so ask for the regular barbecue sauce instead.

Double J Smokehouse & Saloon • 124 E GE Patterson 347-2648 • doublejsmokehouse.com

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Saloons and Speakeasies

Got a hankering for something a little more 19th century? Double J Smokehouse and Saloon is now open on G.E. Patterson and has brought a totally different ambience to the former home of Beignet Café.

“It’s Old West meets Memphis,” says chef Demitrie Phillips. Along with owners and pitmasters John Harris and Jeff Stamm (the double Js), Phillips is turning out plates of baby back ribs and pulled pork sandwiches in the Memphis-style barbecuing tradition. A variety of steaks, from a 24-ounce bone-in rib-eye to a 10-ounce filet, bring the Western steakhouse to the table, and a range of house-made sausages on the sausage and cheese appetizer plate make this a carnivore’s delight.

Phillips says Double J is only serving beer for now, but a liquor license is in the works. With a small stage already built, this saloon is set to become another live music venue for South Main.

If you’re looking for vegetarian options, Phillips has a number of side items in his wheelhouse, from garlic sautéed button mushrooms, to fresh broccoli crowns, to buttered rice pilaf. But steer clear of the Roadhouse Beans (they’re made with bacon like traditional chuck wagon beans) and the twice-baked potato (which has pulled pork and cheese baked into the potato).

Double J Smokehouse is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. and on Sunday, 10 a.m. to midnight. While a special lunch menu might be available in the future, for now Phillips says they’re serving the same menu all day.

Double J Smokehouse and Saloon, 124 G.E. Patterson (347-2648)

doublejsmokehouse.com

Blind Bear, Speakeasy on the Main Street Mall has begun serving lunch on Wednesdays and Fridays and hopes to grow its mid-day business from there.

If you read “speakeasy” and start dreaming of a liquid lunch, you should set your drinking cap aside until happy hour. This lunch menu dishes up your basic bar and home-style food, trotting it out with fancy names from the ’20s, like Hotsy Totsy Soups, Cat’s Meow Sides, and Bee’s Knees Sandwiches.

And that’s just the way owner Jeannette West wants it: comfort food dressed up in Prohibition-era clothing.

“Downtown already has the fine cuisine and gastro pub covered,” she says. “I just wanted something for when I’m hungry for bar food or a good vegetable plate.”

The vegetable plate comes with four sides, and you can get banana pudding as one of your four, if you’re the type who likes dessert as soon as you can get it. Otherwise, the offerings are fairly typical, with mashed potatoes and gravy, salad, white beans, green beans, black-eyed peas. Things get a little more exciting when you delve into the macaroni-and-cheese options. There are three different kinds to choose from — cheddar, white cheddar, and pepper jack — and as far as West is concerned, there’s no telling how many mac-and-cheese renditions the future holds.

Other treats include the Jäger BBQ Bologna sandwich, made with a giant slab of baloney and topped with Jägermeister barbecue sauce, and strawberry and chocolate cakes, served by the slice. Grilled cheese, burgers, chicken tenders, and a fish sandwich round out the offerings.

The dinner menu is the same as the lunch menu, so if you aren’t able to make it by during your lunch hour, you can always pop in for dinner before midnight or for appetizers before 2 a.m. They also have a separate brunch menu, served solely on Sunday from 3 to 6 p.m. It’s called the “Hungover as a Bear Brunch,” because, as West puts it, “If you went out the night before, you usually miss brunch the next day. I made a brunch you won’t miss.”

Blind Bear, Speakeasy, 119 S. Main (417-8435)