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Burger Extravaganza

It’s the Great Burger, Charlie Brown!

That’s right, it’s everyone’s favorite time of the year again: Memphis Flyer Burger Week! For 2023’s celebration of the holy grail of classic American dining, we researched some of the best beef patties around and released our writers all over the city to sample some good ol’ Bluff City hamburgers. The usual suspects are out in force, while some newcomers showed off their tasty takes on ground chuck. All of the restaurants on the following pages are participating in Burger Week this year, so we went ahead and checked out what you can expect for some pretty cool $6.99 deals.

Old Bridge Burger – Loflin Yard

“Oh gee,” mused an indecisive diner during a night out on the town in Downtown Memphis. “What do I want to eat tonight? A hamburger? Some barbecue? Or maybe just a small snack of onion rings to tide me over?”

“Oh-ho!” chortled a voice just over his shoulder. “Trouble deciding what to eat tonight?”

“The Loflin Fairy!” the diner exclaimed. “What are you doing here?”

“Why, I’m here to solve your dinnertime woes with the Old Bridge Burger at Loflin Yard.” With a flourish, the Loflin Fairy snapped his fingers to conjure a plate out of thin air, topped with a hefty burger piled with all sorts of different accouterments. The diner leaned in, eyes wide, as his salivating gaze wandered over the myriad ingredients.

“It’s got a large Angus beef patty, coleslaw, pickles, barbecue sauce … wait, is that pulled pork on top of the burger? And some fried onion rings under the top bun?”

“Indeed it is,” laughed the Loflin Fairy.

“That’s so much food!” But when the diner looked up, the Loflin Fairy had vanished, leaving him alone with the large Old Bridge Burger, a side of fries, and a frozé for good measure. — Samuel X. Cicci
7 W. Carolina Ave.

The Celtic Burger (Photo: Jon W. Sparks)

The Celtic Burger – Celtic Crossing

Celtic Crossing’s old standbys — think shepherd’s pie and bangers and mash — are splendid, but if you’re hankering for a good ol’ hamburger, you’ll get a beefy serving of satisfaction at the classic Irish pub. The Celtic Burger starts with its blended patty that is nicely seasoned and sports a satisfying topper of American cheese. There is also a “secret sauce,” which implies a certain possible leprechaun involvement, but which my taste buds and some discreet inquiries revealed to have elements of ketchup and mayonnaise (probably not from County Mayo, though).

Verdict is: delicious. Rounding it out are pickles, tomatoes, and shaved lettuce. It all sits comfortably between two halves of a potato bun liberally festooned with sesame seeds. The dish comes with thick, savory fries, as one would expect from a Hibernian kitchen. The seeded bun itself is a delight, but, as will happen with robust burgers, might not stay intact through the end. This, however, is why the Irish invented forks, so you can enjoy it to the last morsel. — Jon W. Sparks
903 Cooper St.

World Famous Huey Burger (Photo: Shara Clark)

World Famous Huey Burger Huey’s

When’s the last time you had a World Famous Huey Burger? For me, it’s been a year. Yep, when I signed up to eat this classic for this year’s Burger Week preview, I’d forgotten I volunteered to eat and write about the same burger last year.

Oops. Not to fret; it was a welcome change from my typical steak on a stick or potato soup order (I still got some soup to-go because, duh). And who doesn’t love a time-tested cheeseburger?

A perennial Flyer Best of Memphis “Best Burger” winner, the Huey’s standard features a 6-oz. certified Angus beef patty with all the fixings — mayo, lettuce, tomato, mustard, pickles, onion, and cheddar or Swiss cheese on a toasted sesame seed bun. This is a somewhat hefty burger, so prepare to unhinge the jaw a tad to get a taste of all the goods in one go. The combination of juicy beef (medium-cooked for maximum results) and familiar condiments offers that summer backyard cookout flavor we all crave when a burger hankering hits.

Plan your Huey’s trip wisely. In a noon-hour lunch attempt, the line spilled into the lobby and out the front door at not one but three locations. Which on its own is a testament to the quality and longevity of this Memphis-favorite institution. — Shara Clark
Multiple locations

Southern Smokehouse Burger (Photo: Michael Donahue)

Southern Smokehouse Burger Tops Bar-B-Q

A regular Tops hamburger is now iconic. The Southern Smokehouse Burger is a cheeseburger with grilled onions, thick-cut bacon, and a sweet Southern glaze. That glaze drenching that bacon is over-the-top great. Or make that “over the Tops.”

They added the burger with its “smokey molasses-based glaze” as a limited-time offer for the summer, says Hunter Brown with Tops Operations LLC. He and Tops CEO Randy Hough were at the Tops location at 5144 Poplar Avenue the day I was there. Also at the restaurant were a bunch of guys from Christian Brothers High School. Hough and Brown let the guys sample the Southern Smokehouse Burger.

I asked the students what they thought. They liked the “nice texture,” “sweetness and flavor,” and the “sauce.” Another guy specifically said “glaze,” so he knows his cuisine. Brown says one of the guys told him it was “amazing.”

The Southern Smokehouse Burger is $5.99, which is below the Burger Week price point. “What we’re doing is giving the burger and a side of macaroni and cheese for $6.99,” Brown says. The mac and cheese is another new Tops item. — Michael Donahue
Multiple locations

Sunrise Burger (Photo: Kailynn Johnson)

Sunrise Burger Sunrise Memphis

Working for the Flyer has come with a lot of firsts, and this year’s Burger Week was no different. It was my first time trying an egg on a burger. Not too crazy, I know, but for someone who usually sticks to a regular cheeseburger, with the occasional addition of bacon, it can be intimidating. Alongside a sunny-side-up egg, the Sunrise Burger from Sunrise Memphis comes with a double smash patty, cheddar cheese, bacon jam, and jalapeño cream cheese spread, all served on a brioche bun.

When I told my dad about how nervous I was to try all these elements together, his reaction was, “I’m not going to lie, that sounds good,” and per usual, he was right. The ingredients seemed to work together in a way that “breakfast for dinner” does, and it was a nice mix of sweet and savory. The star of the burger would definitely have to be the bacon jam, as the sweetness doesn’t overpower the other elements, and works really nicely with the jalapeño cream cheese spread. While it’s not usually my first thought to visit a breakfast spot to satiate burger cravings, I think a new 20-minute commute is now in the rotation. — Kailynn Johnson
Multiple locations

Soul Burger (Photo: Earnestine & Hazel’s)

Soul Burger Earnestine & Hazel’s

Earnestine & Hazel’s iconic Soul Burger is a dose of Memphis magic served on a blanket of crinkly deli paper.

The ingredients are simple: a bun, patty, onions, cheese, pickle, and “Soul Sauce.” The bar says that’s “all that’s needed to make our delicious burger.” And it has been for years. But there’s something … else about the Soul Burger. Something transportive. But something also elusive. Just what, exactly, has made this humble burger such an essential stitch in the fabric of Memphis culture? Again, it’s hard to define.

But you feel it when the barkeep slides that little paper basket your way. The warm, little burger is just how you remembered. That first bite hits your taste buds and magically unlocks some core Memphis memory.

And never a bad memory. It’s beers and buddies, and the jukebox, and Mr. Nate upstairs, and the peeling paint, the “no dope smoken” sign, and how “ragged but right” (the bar’s ethos) fits it and the city so well, and somehow you feel at home in it all.

Have you been drinking? Probably! But that’s not what makes a Soul Burger taste so good. And neither, really, is it just pure nostalgia.

It’s the perfect blend of simple, savory ingredients done just right every single time. That’s what has brought generations of Memphians coming back for more soul. — Toby Sells
531 S. Main St.

DaLabSpecial (Photo: Chris McCoy)

DaLabSpecial Dexter’s Lab 901

It’s a hot August night on Shelby Drive. Dexter’s Lab 901 food truck is posted up in a corner of the Walmart Neighborhood Market parking lot. As soon as the blue LEDs light up, cars gather around in a semicircle, waiting for Allante Armstrong’s grease and griddle to get hot enough to cook his signature wings and burgers. “And guess what? I ain’t even posted that I’m open yet!” says Armstrong. “That’s a blessing.”

Armstrong named Dexter’s Lab 901 after his younger brother who passed away from lupus. On the side of the truck, millennial cartoon science hero Dexter shares space with a smiling Dexter Wooten, eternally young.

The burger Armstrong serves up, DaLabSpecial, is a classic griddle burger with the traditional fixings served on two thick, buttered slabs of Texas toast. “I do it just to be different because everybody else put it on regular cheeseburger buns,” says Armstrong.

The burger is thick, but not overwhelming, and super juicy. The buttered buns soak up the ample drippings without falling apart. (Structural integrity is an underrated trait in all sandwiches.) Served half-buried in spicy crinkle fries, it’s ideal street food.

Armstrong gets into a groove, taking orders and juggling burgers on the grill and wings in the fryer. “It’s just something that turned into a hustle. I don’t really know how to cook. If you put me in a real kitchen, I wouldn’t know what to do. But I’m learning,” he says.

The guy next to me in line seems amused when he hears that. “[Armstrong] catered my sister’s wedding,” he says. “You tell ’em he’s good. He’s real good.” — Chris McCoy
6990 E. Shelby Dr.

The Memphis Belle (Photo: Michael Donahue)

The Memphis Belle Belle Tavern

They call them “designer burgers” because of their high quality, but they usually cost more than $10. These are hamburgers made with prime beef trimmings. They’re usually available at high-end restaurants.

Well, for Burger Week, Belle Tavern at 117 Barboro Alley (on the flipside of Union’s 117 Prime) is offering its hamburger, the Memphis Belle. According to the description from the restaurant’s general manager Jake Smith, who designed the burger, the hamburger is a quarter-pound patty of ground beef “from the trimmings of our USDA prime steaks, smoked Gouda, caramelized onion, house-made dill pickles, Prime sauce, on a toasted onion kaiser bun.”

Diners can tell the difference when they take a bite, Smith says. “You get all those textures and flavors working together.” The trimmings come from their whole rib-eye New York strips at 117 Prime. “We take these trimmings and get this grind.” USDA prime, he says, “is all about flavor and tenderness.”

They’re considering permanently adding the Memphis Belle to their menu at Belle Tavern. “We’re looking at this as a test drive. Get some feedback from our guests and see what they think.” But it will cost more. And, man, oh, man, those fries that come with it. “Fries are the secret weapon.” — MD
117 Barboro Alley

The Crazy Coop (Photo: Alex Greene)

Build Your Own Burger The Crazy Coop

The Crazy Coop, which only opened its two locations this February, offers a back-to-basics take on the classic American burger. It’s a no-frills, artisanal approach that focuses on freshness, but one can build on that foundation to create the custom burger of your dreams. That’s because The Crazy Coop is much more than a burger joint. As the name suggests, they specialize in chicken, and especially wings (indeed, they only serve burgers at their Bartlett location). But while all their flavorful options, which include both classic wings seasonings and unique creations like BBQ Bacon Bourbon or Honey Habanero BBQ, originated in their dedication to hot wings, they encourage customers to apply them to burgers as well.

But I wanted to get down to the fundamentals: their basic, unadorned cheeseburger with lettuce, tomato, and onion. The flavor was exquisite. Owner/chef Darius Buckner explained that, having cooked since childhood, then working with a chef in Atlanta for decades, he was committed to seasoning and shaping the patties by hand himself. That attention to detail pays off in the nuanced flavors of their burgers. You could order up a bunch to go for a backyard cookout without ever firing up your grill. — Alex Greene
7199 Stage Rd. (Not available at Ridgeway location)

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News News Blog News Feature

Workers Sue Earnestine & Hazel’s, Others for Alleged Unpaid Wages

Workers at four Memphis restaurants, including Earnestine & Hazel’s, sued the owners to recover alleged unpaid minimum wage and overtime. 

In March, an attorney filed three separate suits against Local in Memphis, the parent company of The Vault, Earnestine & Hazel’s, The Paramount, and The Backlot Sandwich Shop. The suits claim three different classes of employees — servers and bartenders, managers, and one cook — are owed unpaid wages, legal fees, and more. They all list Local in Memphis co-owner Tyson Bridge as the point person for the company. 

In the suit involving the servers and bartenders, the suit claims the company did not tell the employees they were working under a tip-compensation plan. This system is a way for companies to include an employee’s tips toward the employer’s minimum wage requirements, according to human resources company Paychex, Inc. 

Attorneys for the servers and bartenders said the Fair Labor Standards Act (FSLA) puts “strict requirements” on companies using the tip credit system. In the case of Local in Memphis, these “requirements were not met.” 

For one, the employees were not told by the company they were working under the system. For this, the servers and bartenders were working for $2.13 per hour, the required minimum wage for tipped employees, instead of the $7.25 regular minimum wage. The employees are entitled to the difference for those hours worked, the lawsuit says. 

Also, these servers and bartenders were made to do “dual occupation” work and side work like cleaning bathrooms, stocking ice, sweeping, cutting fruit, polishing silverware, and more. These jobs do not allow the employees to make tips while they are paid below the minimum wage. Labor law allows tipped employees to do some of this work. But the suit says Local in Memphis made their employees do more, violating federal law. 

“For example, plaintiff [Amanda] Levitch was required to clean up a vomit-filled sink during one of her shifts (and while being paid at a reduced tip-credit rate of pay),” reads the suit.

The company runs its restaurants as one entity and co-mingled its staff and management, the suit says. The employees would work at the different locations and their work hours would sometimes meet or exceed 40 hours. Federal law says employees working more than 40 hours must be paid time-and-a-half. 

The suit claims, though, that the restaurant owners counted the employees’ time at each restaurant, “in order to maintain a façade that plaintiffs were working less than 40 hours per week.” The owners failed to pay overtime to the employees because they did not calculate overtime based on all hours worked for the company when they worked multiple restaurant locations in the same week. 

“[The restaurant owners] were, in reality, one operation that was divided into multiple entities to support the fiction that they are not joint employers and/or an integrated enterprise,” reads the suit. 

The second and third suits cover restaurant managers and a cook. They claim the restaurant owners used the same scheme to avoid paying them overtime they deserved. 

For this and more, the servers and bartenders, managers, and the cook, all seek alleged unpaid compensation. The servers and bartenders want compensation for unpaid minimum wages. All of the groups want compensation for unpaid overtime, liquid damages (a pre-determined money award), legal fees, attorney fees, and jury trials to get them all. 

In the March filing, the employees were not able to say exactly how much money they were owed, but thought the information may come out in the legal process. In these cases, the amounts of hours and money can be determined through the employees’ testimony, but the burden of proof is ultimately on the employer.  

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News News Blog

Memphis Ghost Group Helps the Living…and the Dead

Memphis Ghost Investigations and Spirit Rescue

A ghost at the Memphis Zoo? Yes, and there’s evidence. Mary, The Orpheum’s most famous spirit? She’s passed over. And The Woodruff-Fontaine House? It’s “filled with spirits.”

All of this is according to Stephen Williams. He is a “veteran, clairsentient, paranormal investigator” and leader of the Memphis Ghost Investigations and Spirit Rescue (MGISR). The group does identify as “ghost hunters,” but they do much more than that.

“We don’t just investigate,” reads the group’s website. “We help them move on.”

Memphis Ghost Investigations and Spirit Rescue

In this case, “them” means spirits — ghosts — and Williams tries to help them cross over. MGISR’s motto is “investigate, educate, and rescue.” They investigate the haunting and educate the home or building owner about what it is going on. But they also educate the spirit in hopes to rescue them from whatever keeps them glued to this side of existence.

If any of this has you skeptical or scintillated, check out the evidence section of the group’s website. There, you’ll find photos and a collection of electronic voice phenomena (EVPs) of, what MGISR says, are voices of spirits either barely audible to humans or not at all.

Listen for the Halloween-perfect “oooohhh” of a ghost caught on a recorder during a late-night investigation of the Memphis Zoo, where ”paranormal activity had been witnessed multiple times by different people,” according to the group.

But this work is not just some Halloween-time spookfest for Williams and his group. They continue their work year round and never take a dime for it. For them, it’s service work, Williams said.

We talked with Williams about his work, how he educates spirits, and the scariest thing he’s witnessed in his 17 years as a paranormal investigator. — Toby Sells

Memphis Flyer: How did you get started in ghost investigations?

Stephen Williams:
I got involved in 2002. I was working here with these two ladies. This is before everything became really popular on TV, like on Ghost Hunters.
In 2002, I was in St. Augustine, Florida on a family vacation and took some photos on our ghost tour. I didn’t know anything about it, and sent those photos to a couple of ladies who had a website here. At the time it was called Ghost Stalkers of West Tennessee.

We exchanged emails and eventually they asked me to start accompanying them. About that time is when we we got invited into people’s homes.  Memphis Ghost Investigations and Spirit Rescue

Williams

About 2006, those two ladies retired from it.

I changed the name to Memphis-Midsouth Ghost Hunters I was in charge of that organization. It ran continuously until earlier last year. I took a little break because of some personal things.

Then, I started this new organization. I just renamed it to the current name and found some really gifted mediums to work with. That’s what sets us apart from everybody else.

MF: Did you see something on those St. Augustine photos? What made you send them in to the two original ladies?

SW: It was what looked like an orb, a streaking orb. I didn’t know anything about any of that at that time. So, I got back to the ladies that were running that website.
They said, go in your backyard and find where a spider has spun a little strand from the tree down to the ground. Take a picture. Sure enough, there was that same effect. But it left me intrigued.

I started going out to a local cemetery and just sitting there with a recorder and I got a voice. That just kept me going. It was up around Millington.

MF: Any idea what the voice said?

SW: It sounded like a child. I don’t remember exactly. I have recorded so many (electronic voice phenomena — EVP) over the years. I don’t remember exactly what it was. It was like a word or two. But it was definitely there. There was no one there with me. It was totally quiet. There was a voice.
[pullquote-1]
MF:
What pushed you into getting more involved in that work?

SW: The people that contacted us were really terrified. They were perplexed. They didn’t understand what was going on. It was affecting their lives.

In the beginning, I didn’t know a whole lot about how to help any spirits that were at a locale that we visited. But I became more acquainted with people, and discovered methods of my own, and learned from others.

When we go into a place, we’re going to communicate with whoever [spirit] is there. We’re going to find out why they’re there, who they are. Then we try to get them moving on to the next phase of their existence.

It helps everybody. It helps those lost souls and helps the people that are having disturbances. All that stops. Their lives go back to normal. So, everybody wins.

MF: So, that’s one of the payoffs. You really do get to help people on both sides of the plane?

SW: Absolutely. We don’t do like the guys on TV. They go in and collect a bunch of evidence and then leave with all the same things going on.
[pullquote-2] Evidence is not a huge part of (the work) for me anymore. Within the first year, I got definitive proof that this is not the end of existence. There is something beyond, OK?

Our focus is on connecting with whoever’s there. I am an intuitive. I can sense their energy. I can tell if it’s male or female. I can tell if they’re what we call earthbound or if they’ve crossed over.

Sometimes it’s the people’s loved ones on the other side that are around. They’ll do things. They’ll leave coins, things like that, to try to get their loved ones’ attention. Usually when that occurs, there’s maybe a family crisis, or the person is having some a crossroads. So, these on the other side that have already transitioned, come in to let them know that they’re supported, to try to get them in touch with people like us.

MF: In your time in doing this work, what was something that either scared you or what was just so unexplainable?

SW: At one point, the group had dwindled down to me and one other person, a guy who is very intuitive. We got called to an apartment Downtown where a person had been murdered.

A guy who moved into the apartment had a really terrifying experience where he looked in the mirror and the spirit was standing behind him and actually was choking him. So, we went down there.
[pullquote-3] The spirit actually spoke out loud, which is called ”direct voice” when you can actually hear it. She was very troubled. At the time, I didn’t have a lot of knowledge about how to help spirits cross over.

But during that couple of hours that we were there, the guy who had moved into the apartment became overshadowed, I guess you’d say, by the spirit. He actually passed out. That was quite dramatic.

He passed out. Fell backwards and hit his head on a wooden floor. The only way we could get him back to himself was to get him out of the apartment and down the hallway. He finally started regaining his senses. The (female spirit) basically short circuited; she was so enraged.
[pullquote-4] MF: What are some of the techniques you use now to help spirits cross over?

SW: I work with very gifted mediums. I’ve been blessed to have those people come into my life. They are Jennifer and Kayla. They’ve been able to sense this energy since they were children. They’ve been able to communicate with spirits from a very early age. So, it’s very normal for them.  Memphis Ghost Investigations and Spirit Rescue

Kayla

We’re going into a house in a small town in Mississippi tomorrow and then going to another in Jackson, Tennessee on Sunday.

What we do is go in and visit for a little while. I will take a piece of equipment and sometimes they will interact with it. But usually, in my experience, when there are mediums on the location, they they don’t waste their energy with equipment.

The mediums are clairvoyant and clairaudient, meaning they can see the energy and they can hear the thoughts of the spirits. So, they will connect with them and we’ll get an idea of who’s there. Then, we’ll give them an opportunity to tell their story.

If they’re in some traumatic loop, or something like that, we have methods of dealing with that. We also have connections to where we can call on their loved ones on the other side to come in and help them get across.

You see these people on TV, they go in at 7 p.m. or 9 p.m. and they’re there overnight. Gosh, thats’ crazy. We can usually go in within two hours and take care of what needs to be done sometimes a lot less time.
Memphis Ghost Investigations and Spirit Rescue

Jennifer

So, the intuitive aspect of it is what really sets us apart from most of the groups. I think there’s a few other groups around here. I’m very complimentary of what they’re doing. They just may not have the firepower to really go and be effective and make a change, a positive change. That’s our goal is to help those spirits cross and to help the people get their lives back to normal.

MF: So, that’s the “spirit rescue” part of what you do, right?

SW: Right.

MF: In all of your years of doing this, about how many cases have you worked on?

SW: I would say over 1,000 or maybe more. I never kept up with it. I have been in hundreds, and hundreds, and hundreds of homes and public places.

I have been in a lot of the well-known, allegedly haunted places here in town. You have the Orpheum, Earnestine & Hazel’s, and Fontaine House. The Fonataine House is filled with spirits.

I have been in that house with two different mediums who both connected with Elliot. It was one of the family members. He said he stays up on the second floor, a reclusive-type energy. He’s not interested in leaving the place.

You can talk to them. You can counsel them. You can explain that they don’t have to be here, but they have free will. So, they can make the choice.
[pullquote-5]
MF:
The most famous Memphis spirit, I guess, is Mary at The Orpheum. What do you make of that one?

SW: I got invited down there one time and I had a very gifted medium with me. We feel like she crossed over because we talked to her. We were able to communicate with her and we feel like she did cross over.

We have not been back there since then to actually do a check. But when we called on her loved ones, some did come. I felt like she did release at that time.

She may come back. In my experience, what happens is when they cross over — even in people’s homes — they’re in a different vibration. They’re at a higher vibration. Sometimes, they’ll just come around as protectors or to just to say thank you or that type of thing.  Memphis Ghost Investigations and Spirit Rescue

They don’t usually stay long. So, (Mary) may pop up here and there. But she’s not in that vibration of what we call earthbound.

MF: Finally, I know this is kind of a Halloween topic. But your group does this year round. It’s not just a Halloween thing for you.

SW: Oh, yes. This is year round.

You can go into somewhere — and you don’t have to go during “dead hour” or whatever they say on TV, which is such baloney. Spirits are there 24/7. People have experiences at all times of the day and night.

So, we can go into the home (and have gone into homes) at like at eight or nine o’clock in the morning, because it was the only time we could schedule. And we were able to connect and to do the work that we needed to do.

MF: Is there anything else you’d like to add?
[pullquote-6] SW: Just to emphasize to people that we do not charge. This is service work for us.
In my 17 years, I’ve had people offer me money. I always tell them that I support (St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital). If you want to say thank you, make a donation. People normally do that.

Our motto is investigate, educate, and rescue. We’re going to investigate to see what’s going on. Then, we educate not only the homeowner about what is going on and what we can do, but also the spirits.

We’re going to counsel any spirits we find there and explain to them that they don’t have to stay here. It’s really a roadblock for them to stay. That’s the rescue, of course. Our goal is to rescue anyone who’s there and help them move on to better to better existence. Memphis Ghost Investigations and Spirit Rescue

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News News Blog

Earnestine & Hazel’s Seeks Information on Vandal, Promises Burger

Earnestine & Hazel’s/Facebook

A vandal punched three holes in the wall Saturday night.

Earnestine & Hazel’s needs your help.

Someone punched three holes in a wall in the upstairs hallway Saturday night, “causing significant damage.” The vandal has not yet been identified but the E&H staff want to solve this whodunnit.

The venerated South Main watering hole bills itself as “ragged but right.” But, in a way that maybe only Memphians can understand, E&H staffers believe that raggedness should be preserved.

“We are operating in a very delicate and historically significant building that was constructed in 1906,” reads the bar’s Facebook post on Monday. “Preserving Earnestine’s integrity is at the top of our priorities, but we cannot do it without your help.”

If you saw it go down or have any information about it, the E&H staff “would love to buy you a burger and a drink and talk about it.”
[pullquote-1] The vandalism happened during a celebration of Nate Barnes’ 27th anniversary of working at E&H. You probably know Moore as the broad-smiled, good-natured upstairs bartender, Mr. Nate.

Read the post yourself here:

Earnestine & Hazel’s Seeks Information on Vandal, Promises Burger

Categories
News The Fly-By

Haunted Pub Crawl Combines Spirits with Spirits

Memphis may be one of the most haunted cities in America, according to local paranormal investigator Stephen Guenther.

That fact is hard to quantify. Savannah, Georgia, St. Augustine, Florida, and New Orleans also make that claim.

But Guenther makes a pretty good case for Memphis, home to a string of deadly events including the Battle of Memphis and countless Civil War deaths, the Sultana disaster (still the biggest maritime disaster in American history), the yellow fever epidemic, and “a number of grisly, historical murders.”

“I think it’s one of the most haunted cities just because of how much different activity we’ve had here, from disasters to epidemics to just your usual human drama,” Guenther said.

Guenther is a founder of the MidSouth Paranormal Society (MPS), which investigates hauntings all over the Mid-South in homes, businesses, cemeteries, schools, and more. Guenther and MPS cofounder Tanya Vandesteeg also founded the tour company Historical Haunts.

Toby Sells

Karen Brownlee and Stephen Guenther

This year the company started a new tour, a haunted pub crawl in the South Main Arts District. I tagged along with Guenther last Friday afternoon, but before we got to the pubs, we began at the Woodruff-Fontaine House, a sort of home base for the MPS.

A.J. Northrop, a Woodruff-Fontaine House board member and member of the Association for the Preservation of Tennessee Antiquities, said he has a long relationship with Elliott Fontaine, who died at age 34 of Spanish flu but whose spirit allegedly lives on inside the house.

“He electrocutes me, shoves me, pinches me, breathes heavily at me,” Northtrop said. “It’s not always one specific thing, but it’s just that there’s always someone here.”

Later, Guenther and I hit South Main. As I stand near the register of IONS Geek Gallery, Guenther tells of the grisly 1918 murder of Memphis police officer Edward Broadfoot inside the building.

“Do you know on what spot he was killed?” I ask.

“Well, you’re standing on it,” Guenther said.

In the basement, folding chairs circle a table that holds a number of ghost-hunting devices and a photo of officer Broadfoot. Guenther’s pub crawl groups fill the chairs as he tries to make contact with the murdered officer. “We did get the little bell to ring once,” Guenther said.

Down the street, Harry Zepatos told Guenther and me that he’d never seen any ghosts inside his Arcade Restaurant, but others have.

“My wife, Karen, has seen my grandfather in here before,” Zepatos said. “Also, this head of security guy — nice people, good wife, normal people — he saw him, too, during [River Arts Festival] four or five years ago. We were closed, and he saw him through the window.”

No ghost tour of Memphis is complete without a visit to Earnestine & Hazel’s, so we stop in there. Bartender and manager Karen Brownlee said she’s seen a woman (who she thought might have been Earnestine) at the end of the downstairs hallway. The bar lights have flickered when patrons made fun of ghosts. The locked-up piano has played by itself upstairs. Though she was alone, someone nudged her shoulder as she stood at the jukebox one night.

“I used to be [afraid], but now I feel like whatever’s in here will take care of me,” Brownlee said.

The haunted pub crawls begin on South Main on most Wednesdays and Fridays at 7:30 p.m. However, this Friday, Guenther and his team will lead ghost tours at the Woodruff-Fontaine House during its annual fund-raiser called Haunted Happenings.

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Paranormal workshop Saturday

When word got out that the Preferencia Cafe at 546 South Main in downtown Memphis was operating as a front for bootleggers, patrolman Edward L. Broadfoot was dispatched to investigate. Broadfoot and his partner visited the restaurant on February 23, 1918, where they spied a trio of suspicious men sitting near the back and what appeared to be a suitcase full of hooch on the floor. As Broadfoot approached the table to question the suspects, one man stood up and opened fire. Broadfoot’s backup returned fire, but it was too late to save Broadfoot. Two of the suspects, including the gunman, escaped and were never knowingly apprehended.

Edward L. Broadfoot

Ghost hunters and ghost-hunting enthusiasts will meet at the Arcade Restaurant at 8 p.m. on Saturday, August 15th, where Broadfoot’s case is being opened by the paranormal investigators of Expedition Unknown. Following a workshop covering the basics of paranormal investigation, guests will be invited to bring their curiosity, as well as their cameras, flashlights, and recording equipment into the basement of a nearby gallery where Broadfoot was gunned down. The party will then proceed across the street to Earnestine & Hazel’s to hear stories about the former brothel’s dark side.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Five Spot’s new menu; Aldo’s Midtown now open.

A restaurant in the back of a dive bar doesn’t seem like a promising place. But when it involves chef Kelly English, you rethink things.

The restaurant is Five Spot. The dive bar is Earnestine & Hazel’s. And English did the menu.

“I would describe it as fancy shitty bar food,” English reflects. “The kind of thing I would wanna eat in college when I was drunk.”

Must have been quite a college. Take the Watch Yo’ Head sweetbreads ($12). For those who don’t know, sweetbread is another name for the thymus gland, a brain-like organ in the neck.

In other words, as SNL‘s Linda Richman might say, neither sweet nor a bread.

But in this case, quite tasty. English’s bright idea lies in treating the spongy organ like a buffalo wing — double-frying it and dousing it with all manner of tasty sauces: buffalo sauce, buttermilk drizzle, and crumbled blue cheese. Personally, I had never really gotten into sweetbreads. But these will remind you of fried oysters. Try them.

At least as interesting as the menu is the space itself. Back in the ’20s, before it was a dive bar, Earnestine & Hazel’s was a pharmacy, the place where entrepreneur Abe Plough developed his revolutionary hair-straightening cream. And then, of course, there was the brothel, which started around World War II.

“When we bought it in the ’90s,” remembers owner Bud Chittom, “there were still whores upstairs. Russell [George] and I were worried they would go on strike.”

Five Spot’s interior carries traces of both the pharmacy and the brothel, but it has been pleasingly updated for the new millennium. Rustic brick walls and brass table tops are offset by modern furnishings and globed light fixtures. The design, says Chittom, is an homage to Earnestine & Hazel’s proprietor Russell George, who died in 2013.

“We took our cues from what Russell would have wanted it to be,” he says.

Before you ask: The Soul Burger ($6) isn’t going anywhere. English says it has saved his life far too many times for that. But if you’re feeling adventurous, you might instead try the Chicken Skin BLT ($10). Here, deep-fried chicken skin replaces bacon in the classic formulation, and the results are frankly dreamy.

“I think Earnestine & Hazel’s is a lot like Memphis,” muses English. “Everything here is broken, but it works. Nothing is perfect, but there’s a lot that’s really special.”

In recent years, a clutch of food businesses have opened along Cooper: Tart, Soul Fish, Philip Ashley Chocolates, Cooper Street 20/20, Memphis Made Brewing, and Muddy’s Grind House, to name a few. And you know what that means?

It means Memphis may finally knit Overton Square and Cooper Young into a single shopping-dining district. Call it Overton Cooper. Call it Cooperton Squang. Call it whatever you want — but let’s make it happen.

The latest stitch in this promising tapestry is Aldo’s Pizza Pies. Its new location occupies the old Two Way Inn, just across the street from Memphis Made Brewing Co. Formerly a forgettable beige box, the building has been heavily remodeled, and the results are contemporary and inviting.

Justin Fox Burks

Aldo’s Pizza Pies

Chief among its charms is the rooftop patio — the only one in Midtown, says owner Aldo Dean. Kissed by the sun and cooled by breezes, it’s the kind of place where you can forget about work for an hour.

Aldo’s menu — consistently tasty — remains largely unchanged from the downtown location. Everyone talks about the garlic knots, but have you tried the stuffed peppers ($8)? Loaded with goat cheese and marinara, they make an appealing crostini for summer.

Justin Fox Burks

Stevana Mangrum

As far as the pizza, I stand by old favorites like the Vodka Pie and the Trippy Truffle. But lately, I discovered a new winner in Bring Out the Gump ($17). Here, a savory poblano cream sauce is complemented by fresh basil, onion, and sun-dried tomato. The grilled shrimp only sweetens the deal.

Looking to take in a Grizzlies game? Order a pint of the Memphis Made Plaid Attack ($5) and belly up to the bar. This limited-edition Scottish ale combines a solid malt backbone with notes of cherry and chocolate — perfect for a tense fourth quarter.

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Memphis Gaydar News

Cherry’s “Love Or Lack Thereof” Burlesque Party

Whether you spent Valentine’s Day cuddling with your SO or cuddling a pint of Ben & Jerry’s, the monthly Cherry party for lesbians and their friends is offering a Valentine’s-themed do-over. And this time, everyone, single or not, will get to see some skin.

That’s because the monthly party features a burlesque show with Kitty Wompas, Requi Emma, Macc Onner, Spyke Styletto, Vivi Ven Detta, and Gypsy Magnolia. Catch the action at the 5 Spot inside Earnestine & Hazel’s on Saturday, February 28th. Doors open at 8:30 p.m., and there are two burlesque shows — one at 9:30 p.m. and another 11 p.m. Admission is $10 for general admission and $20 for VIP.

The 5 Spot should have their liquor license by then, so drink specials are planned. For food, they’ll be offering Soulburgers, oysters on the half shell, Thai sandwiches, and BLT’s.

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Cover Feature News

Trolley Trials

Something’s missing on Main Street.

Music and the smell of food waft over the Main Street mall’s lunchtime crowd. Office workers mill up and down the brick sidewalks, like always. A sign reads: “Pedestrians Yield To Trolley,” but for the past few months, the only traffic along the mall has been horse-drawn tourist carriages or the golf cart delivering Aldo’s Pizza Pies. 

Gone is the familiar rumble of Memphis’ vintage trolley cars — the lumbering vehicles that warned pedestrians to get out of the way with a friendly (or unfriendly) toot or ding. The void is unmistakeable, like a missing tooth. 

“Fire at any given moment … “

Two fires — both on the Madison Line — caused a lengthy shutdown of the Memphis trolleys. Trolley 452 caught fire last November 4th on the I-240 overpass just west of Bellevue. Trolley 553 caught fire on April 7th on the Danny Thomas overpass bridge. They were hauled back to the Main Street trolley barn, and the cause of the fires was investigated. Both were burned beyond repair. 

Trolley service on the Madison Line was suspended after the April fire. The entire trolley system was shut down on June 11th. That decision came after a a review of the system by industry experts who said unless several corrective actions were taken, “fires will happen again.” Furthermore, it was conveyed to Memphis Area Transit Authority (MATA) management that there could be trolleys currently operating on the lines that “could catch fire at any given moment.” 

Green hybrid buses have since replaced the trolleys. They run the same routes, except for the Main Street Mall and parts of the Riverfront Loop. Bus ridership is rising, officials say, but lots of Memphians want the trolleys back. 

“Disturbing” and “Below Average”

According to an independent report by the American Public Transportation Association (APTA), a Washington, D.C.-based industry group, there are two answers to the question: Why did the trolleys catch fire? 

One is physical, sparks turned to flames when a power surge hit a faulty electrical system. The other is systemic, years of shoddy maintenance procedures and safety processes had become engrained at MATA. 

MATA officials asked the group for an outsider’s look at the trolley trouble in Memphis. The response it got was quite technical and also quite harsh.

The trolley system was governed by “deferred, incomplete, or incorrect practices.” This brought an “environment of higher risk … resulting in an escalation in the number of incidents and accidents.” The system, according the APTA report, made for unreliable trolleys and, therefore, unreliable trolley schedules. MATA’s practices, the report says, were below the average of “today’s street railway industry.”

There was no person at MATA accredited to train trolley operators or maintainers, the report says. There was no safety manager. Several maintenance tasks could only be done by one person. Scant training records existed to show who had received training on what equipment. 

“There appears to be a lack of oversight by management staff to ensure written procedures are being followed,” the APTA report says. 

Oil covered several areas of “the pit,” where the trolleys were repaired, making it slick and dangerous. Worn-out trolley parts were scattered around the trolley maintenance facility on Main Street.  

“There are little or no records on repairs done to the cars,” the report said. 

The records that did exist showed 43 defects on Trolley 553 in the three months before it caught fire in April. Twenty-nine defects were recorded on trolley Number 452 in the three months before it caught fire in November.

There were no manuals on how to maintain the cars’ electrical apparatuses or the air systems. The maintenance staff said they didn’t know how or where to get them.

“Overall, the panel found this to be disturbing,” the report says.

MATA staff interviewed by the panel said they experienced several flashovers, or electrical spark-ups, each year on the trolleys, including one “big” flashover each year. “It would appear that no additional training was provided to the maintenance staff after the fires.”

“This means something to me.”

Ron Garrison, who has led transit systems in

St. Louis; Tallahassee, Florida; and the Washington, D.C. area, was hired as the director of MATA in July. 

His love of trolleys began early, he says, as he rode them growing up in St. Louis. Garrison says the trolleys are important to the vitality of Memphis business as a mobility tool and to tourism as a part of the city’s charm. Garrison says he’s working hard to get the trolleys back on track.

At 9 a.m., it’s almost lunchtime for Garrison. Getting to work early has been part of his routine here. He says he’s usually at work by 3:30 a.m. and jokes that he’s accidentally scared some of the bus mechanics on those early mornings. MATA’s first bus leaves at around 

4:45 a.m., and Garrison wants to be on it, because that’s where the customers are.

“You go talk to them,” Garrison says. “You get on the bus and you ride with them.” 

Garrison told members of the Downtown Memphis Commission the same thing last month, when asked how he would get feedback from the MATA-riding public. 

He then got some laughs when he told the board that he’d have to leave the meeting early because the Memphis Bus Riders Union was picketing a MATA station. The laughs were quickly doused when he told them that enlisting the union’s help as a focus group was another way he’d develop MATA’s future.

Garrison is buttoned-up but casual, comfortable in a suit and tie but easy with a joke. He’s not afraid to admit to city leaders or a scrum of reporters when he does not know the answer to a question. 

He styles himself a “pretty easy-going guy” but also notes that “sometimes you gotta get tough, like in the Navy.” Garrison received the Naval Achievement Medal for his 10 years of service that ended with him as the head of the HFDF Division of U.S. Naval Intelligence. 

After a few years running his own St. Louis insurance company, Garrison started a career in mass transit in 1990 with the St. Louis Metro. Three transit systems and 24 years later, he finds himself in Memphis.

Garrison completely redesigned bus routes in Tallahassee, decentralizing the old hub-and-spoke system there, which made for shorter wait times, more bus routes, and easier transit around the city.

Tallahassee’s StarMetro system won the American Planning Association’s 2013 award for excellence in public transportation. Upon his resignation from the system in 2013, the editorial board of the daily Tallahassee Democrat said of Garrison’s tenure: “… the system works. The city can offer thanks to Mr. Garrison and claim its award with pride.”

Garrison says his appreciation for mass transit began at young age. His grandmother couldn’t walk and got around using one of the first electric wheelchairs. At that time, Garrison recounts, there was no para-transit. To go someplace, you had to call an ambulance.

“I say that to you, because this means something to me,” he says. “I’m not doing this for fun. I’m doing this because I want to do the right thing. I came here because I can feel that this city is changing and doing the right thing.”

Streetcar Desires

Vintage trolley cars clattering along old rail lines through the oldest parts of Memphis may seem like some kind of nostalgia-fueled pet project. But, ironically, the city’s trolley system puts Memphis years ahead of many other major cities in the U.S. 

Streetcar projects are currently underway in Atlanta; Seattle; Milwaukee; Detroit; Cincinnati; Los Angeles; Portland, Oregon; Kansas City, Missouri; Tempe, Arizona; Arlington, Virginia; and Charlotte, North Carolina.

As city cores come back to life across the U.S., downtown residents want to be able to walk, bike, and ride public transportation, and they want to live around others who want the same things. They want an authentic and progressive urban lifestyle.

“Streetcars do more than simply improve mobility,” says the website for the Milwaukee Streetcar Project. “By promoting development, raising property values, attracting businesses, and helping to define our contemporary city, streetcars benefit everyone. Streetcars add vitality to an urban setting, increasing commerce and activity around every one of the fixed stations and stops.”

Charlotte’s project is charged with helping to create “a transit-focused and pedestrian-oriented center city.” Tempe says its streetcar project will “increase mobility, strengthen existing neighborhoods and create sustainable development.” Atlanta wants a system that “links communities, improves mobility by enhancing transit access and options, supports projected growth, promotes economic development and encourages strategies to develop livable communities.”

So far, Portland’s streetcar project has led to 140 real estate projects worth $3.5 billion. According to city statistics, property values there rose by 50 percent. After streetcars began running in Seattle, the city saw 3.3 million square feet of new development.   

A major difference between many of these projects and the Memphis trolley system are the cars themselves. Most of the Memphis trolleys were built around the 1920s. They are mobile pieces of antique furniture — worn wooden artwork on heavy steel wheels. In contrast, the Atlanta cars are fast (up to 50 miles per hour) and sleek. Similar cars are being used in Los Angeles, Tempe, and Seattle.

The Unpromised Future

So when will Memphis’ trolleys come back? Garrison isn’t making any promises about it, but three teams of rail and safety experts converged in Memphis last week for another assessment of the trolley system. Once they’re finished, a new system plan for the city will be revealed, possibly as early as November. Presumably, a timeline for renewed trolley service will be part of the plan.

In the meantime, Garrison and MATA officials are working to reimagine and build the future of the trolley system. He envisions a more efficient system. He knows that the trolleys rarely ran on time, which was the top complaint from locals.

MATA is also implementing an “intelligent” transportation system that will give real-time information on buses and trolleys. By December, MATA is expected to launch a website and a mobile app that will show customers exactly where its vehicles are and when they’ll arrive. 

As for the trolleys, another major factor in on-time performance is to keep them from breaking down so often. 

“We want our miles, or our hours, between breakdowns to be, and I’m not exaggerating here, at least 20 times better than what it is now,” Garrison says. “I know if we don’t do that, that’ll be the first thing on people’s minds.”

Garrison says maintenance and safety processes will also be tightened up, adding that a job posting for a dedicated trolley safety manager is forthcoming. 

When the trolleys first come back, it won’t be with the city’s whole fleet of 17. Seven cars — the bigger ones made in Australia — will be the first to roll down Main. “You can get more folks on them,” Garrison says. The rest of the cars and routes will be added later, he says.

The price tag for the trolley fix has been cited at between $6 million and $36 million, a huge gap. The estimates were done before Garrison was hired. He says the higher figure probably includes some new equipment and facility upgrades. 

The figure definitely includes new trolley cars, and they’re not cheap. Vintage trolley cars can cost as much as $1.3 million each and MATA would have to buy 17 of them to replace what it has now.  

Does MATA need new trolleys? Garrison says it’s a possibility and “one of the first things I looked into.” But he says buying new trolleys would require a “community conversation” that could include considering a switch to the kinds of modern streetcars running in other parts of the country. But Garrison is quick to show that he understands why the old trolleys are important.

“The historic trolleys are more open-air; they’re nostalgic,” he says. “They have a certain sound that is romantic and takes people back to another time. I know many people come just to see the trolleys.”

With any luck, they’ll be able to see them again in the near future.

Trolley Stopped

South Main business owners not happy about lack of trolleys.

With the trolleys having been gone a full six months, many South Main business owners says they are seeing their sales decline, mainly due to a lack of tourists. 

“For the past four years that I’ve owned a business on South Main, tourists from all over the world would ride the River Loop Trolley, not even knowing that our district was down here,” says Anna Avant, owner of Hoot + Louise. 

“They would see the district and stop and shop and eat and look around, because the trolleys introduced them to our neighborhood. You just see less traffic down here now, and I can tell you that not one person has gotten off one of those green buses and come into my store.”

Lisa Brumleve, manager of business recruitment and retention at the Downtown Memphis Commission says the lack of trolleys has caused a drop in sales for some South Main businesses. “A few of the retailers in South Main have received grants from the Downtown Memphis Commission, so, they have to send me — twice a year — financial statements, and we’re looking at about 20 percent down [from one year to the next],” Brumleve says.

Not only are business owners upset about the lack of tourists in the area, store owners like Avant worry that the longer the trolleys are away, the less of an issue it will be to the entire city.

MATA has held various meetings to inform the public on the status of the streetcars. Even after the American Public Transportation Association report was released stating that MATA had failed to properly maintain the trolleys, business owners were hopeful that one or two trolleys could still serve the South Main District.

“There was a town meeting that MATA held when they first shut down the trolleys, and most business owners said they felt good leaving the meeting that one or two trolleys might soon be back,” Avant says. “I didn’t know that the trolleys weren’t coming back this year until I read an article last week. I have not personally heard from anyone at MATA, and I don’t expect them to keep in contact with me because I expect them to be working on the trolleys. But it seems like the more time goes by, the more likely it is that people will forget about the trolleys. But I can tell you that no one down here [on South Main] is forgetting.” 

While there are many businesses on South Main that don’t rely on tourists, the exposure the trolleys created helped business. Sarah Worden, owner of the jewelry store Charlotte Ehinger-Schwarz, says the area is more dependent on the trolleys than people might realize.

“My business has been here for 11 years, and my customers have been keeping my business alive during that time, but no one wants to just survive,” Worden says. “Having those tourists come in creates more exposure, and it’s that little extra business that helps you get ahead. As a business owner you can’t ever rely on one segment like tourism, but it sure helps when it’s there. I don’t know that if I have a down year I could blame it exclusively on the trolleys, but I know that because they are gone that this will probably not be a growth year for my business.”

South Main Association President Brian Douglas says he’s confident that the neighborhood will continue to grow, citing three businesses that have opened since the trolleys stopped running in April. But Douglas admits that the trolleys were a good way to show off South Main.

“The trolley is iconic in the way that it draws people to this area — something that we just aren’t seeing with those green buses,” Douglas says. “Before the city started construction on the Chisca Hotel, people would get to that area and not want to go any farther. If they hopped on the trolley, they didn’t really have a choice, and once they got to South Main they realized that this area had a lot going on. 

“Obviously we all want the trolleys back yesterday, and I think MATA does, as well, because that’s more revenue that they could be generating,” Douglas says. “Now that we know what went wrong, all we can do is hope to get it right this time. No one wants them to rush the trolleys back into service only to have another fire or something that causes the trolleys to stop altogether because people are afraid to get on them.”

Still, South Main business owners feel an integral part of their neighborhood is missing. 

“Would I want to leave this area if the trolleys don’t come back? Of course not. I love South Main and downtown, but if they don’t come back, it’s very possible that I would leave this area,” Avant says.

“We are getting into what is normally our busiest time of the year, and it’s just disappointing. We have staples down here that make the neighborhood what it is. There is the Arcade, the Civil Rights Museum, and Ernestine and Hazels — and the trolleys were what tied all of those things together.”

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A Russell George Memorial Benefit for Church Health Center at Earnestine & Hazel’s

Russell George was beloved — a prince among Memphis tavern owners. He operated Murphy’s Irish Pub on Madison Avenue for years before leaving it in the early 1990s to try something new in the still mostly abandoned South Main district, across from the train station. George took control of the bar, nightclub, and brothel known as Earnestine & Hazel’s (E & H), and reopened it as a beer and burger joint on St. Patrick’s Day 1993. Between its tasty Soulburgers prepared on a richly-seasoned pre-WWII flat-top grill, and a gem-laden jukebox, it didn’t take long for the bar to attract a crowd, and it quickly became a cornerstone business for the district’s incredible turnaround.

Andrew J. Breig

Russell George

There are reasons why E&H was named one of America’s best dive bars by CNN and why the incredibly simple Soulburger wound up on so many “best of” lists. George was a real Memphis character, and everything he touched reflected that. He was unassuming but welcoming, fast with a joke, story, or piece of trivial information about his bar or his city. And even though he swore there was no real secret to the beef patties he flipped, they always seemed to taste a little better when he was wielding the spatula.

George struggled with illness and depression and took his own life a year ago. A Russell George Memorial Benefit at Earnestine & Hazel’s has been planned for Saturday, September 13th with musical entertainment provided by the Earnestine & Hazel’s Band, and proceeds will benefit the Church Health Center.