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Cover Feature News

Sun’s Out, (Burger) Buns Out

Oh, the weather outside is frightful-ly hot, but a fired-up grill is so delightful. That’s right, Memphis, it’s the most bunderful week of the year: Burger Week. That means you get some of the best burgers Memphis has to offer at a pretty awesome price of $6.99 from Wednesday, August 7th, to Tuesday, August 13th. Without further ado, here are this year’s Burger Week burgers.  

Sunrise | Sunrise Patty Melt (Photo: Sarah Morse)

Sunrise Memphis
Sunrise Patty Melt

The last time I had a hamburger for breakfast was probably when I ate a Krystal at 5 a.m. or something back in the day. That would have been on the way home, though, not after waking up in the morning.

Sunrise Memphis is offering the “Sunrise Patty Melt” for its Burger Week selection. Its creator, Sunrise Memphis executive chef Will Sater, calls it “a double smash patty with a cheddar cheese, jalapeño, cream cheese, and bacon jam we make in-house. And an over-easy egg.”

They had a version of the sandwich for last year’s Burger Week, but it was on a brioche bun instead of Texas toast like now. “We thought the toast was a little better for the texture.”

Sater continues, “Oh, it exploded. It was a very good product for us. And people seem to enjoy it, so it’s turned into a hit for us.”

It exploded like the egg can when cut with a knife. “It’s a messy burger, for sure. But just seeing that egg run out is kind of the pièce de résistance, as we like to say. You want to see that egg oozing out. It makes it feel more like breakfast, for sure.”

The Sunrise Patty Melt ended up on the menu. “People kept asking for it. So, we just decided to put it on the menu. And it turned into a big thing here.” — Michael Donahue

Jack Brown’s | Ron Swanson (Photo: Jon W. Sparks)

Jack Brown’s
Crab Rangoon Burger

As dives go, Jack Brown’s Beer & Burger Joint is as funky as you’d want, but with generous helpings of surprises. One of the chain’s co-founders proclaimed, “We’re a dive bar, not a dump,” and it’s certainly not your average burger and beer joint. Those are some high-end burgers, all of which are made with Wagyu beef from Snake River Farms in Idaho and slapped down on Martin’s potato buns. What’s more, all ingredients are made in-house. Any burger on the menu is a delight, but consider what’s being offered during Memphis Flyer Burger Week: The Crab Rangoon Burger, with that delectable Wagyu beef, topped with house-made crab Rangoon (mixed with cream cheese), fried wontons, and sweet Thai chili sauce, served on that potato bun. Tragically, I was too early to sample that one, but I’ll be back now that Burger Week is underway. Meanwhile, I gladly dug into the Tuesday special, the Ron Swanson, with bacon, Muenster cheese, and barbecue bacon mayo. My companion got the Elvis burger that’s topped with some peanut butter. And the fries were scrumptious, begging to be dipped in an onion aioli sauce, which now replaces any ketchup tendencies we used to have. Phenomenal burgers and (despite the bras discreetly hanging from a light fixture) family-friendly! — Jon W. Sparks 

Tops Bar-B-Q | Policeman Burger (Photo: Patrick Collins)

Tops Bar-B-Q
Policeman Burger

Tops Bar-B-Q, whose iconic cheeseburger is special in its own right, is featuring the Policeman Burger as its Burger Week selection.

Describing the burger, Hunter Brown with Tops, says it’s a “Tops famous cheeseburger on a bed of mayonnaise, pickles, with applewood bacon, grilled onion, slow-smoked brisket, and Sweet ‘N’ Saucy barbecue sauce.”

Naming it the Policeman had to do with how Tops supports members of the Memphis Police Department. They protect communities where Tops team members as well as customers live and work, says Randy Hough with Tops. It’s important for Tops to bring attention to them for the job they’re doing there every day.

I could have yelled out how good this over-the-top sandwich is at the Tops Cordova location where I tried it for the first time. But nobody had to call the police. I kept my calm. — MD

Rock’n Dough | The Classic Burger (Photo: Toby Sells)

Rock’n Dough
The Classic Burger

How do you get beer into a hamburger? 

The question has vexed armies of scientists for generations. The team at Rock’n Dough Pizza & Brewery has finally answered it.

The solution lies in the pickles. The menu lists them as “house-made hop pickles.” That’s right. Rock’n Dough’s food geniuses flavored pickles with hops, the beer ingredient that lifts heavy on aroma, flavor, and bitterness. I’m a hop-head/IPA bro, so it’s one of my favorites. 

Those pickles can be found on The Classic Burger at Rock’n Dough. It’s a stripped-down street-racer of a burger that relies on old-school flavor punch — not some flashy topping-of-the-month — to deliver the goods. And it sure does. 

One bite transported me back to the lake or the ballpark, places I first learned to savor and appreciate food in the first place. Like a great beer, The Classic was balanced and you could taste the beef, the garlic-basil mayo, the seasoning, and all the ingredients, especially the pickles. The hop flavor was subtle, but I swore they’d figure out how to get a beer in my burger. And my hat went off to them. — Toby Sells

Farm Burger | Classic Farm Burger with kale slaw (Photo: Alex Greene)

Farm Burger
The Spicy Pimento

Living as close as I do to Farm Burger in the Crosstown Concourse, I eat there often, and though I didn’t order their special Burger Week offering when I stopped in last week (the Spicy Pimento, with their usual 100-percent grass-fed beef burger, pimento cheese, pasture-raised bacon, pickled jalapenos, and sherry-date barbecue sauce), the burger I did get was a lesson in how you just can’t go wrong with an establishment so focused on fresh, local food as the basis of its menu.

I’ve become a big fan of their kale slaw as an alternative to French fries, so I ordered a side of it with my regular, reliably delicious Farm Burger, the eatery’s flagship sandwich. But the burger that was served was even more delicious than expected: The kitchen had misunderstood, thinking I wanted only a kale slaw topping, and that’s what I got. Imagine my surprise!

One bite and I was hooked. The texture of the well-dressed kale leaves complements your basic Farm Burger to a T, adding a new texture and flavor profile to the aged white cheddar, caramelized onions, and Farm Burger sauce toppings that are usually included. Of course, I soon was craving my usual side of kale slaw as well, which the attentive servers promptly brought to my table. But I won’t soon forget the brilliant mistake of adding kale slaw directly to my burger. Indeed, next time I’m there I’ll suggest that addition on my Spicy Pimento Burger.
Alex Greene

Huey’s | World Famous Huey Burger (Photo: Kailynn Johnson)

Huey’s
World Famous Huey Burger

Huey’s has had a special place in my heart ever since it was the finale to an eighth grade field trip. However, I’m a bit embarrassed to admit that in my 12 years of being an avid Huey’s-goer I hadn’t tried a burger from there until this week. 

I know! I know! But let’s say that my first Huey’s burger is a Burger Week staple — and it’s worth the hype. I haven’t had an actual burger in years, opting for leaner meats instead, and I’d classify this as an actual burger. You know, the one you see in some TV show from the ’90s that the characters seem to neglect over frivolous dialogue — despite the mouthwatering entree before them. 

I tried the World Famous Huey’s burger fully loaded (minus the onions) with cheddar. I added a side of sweet potato fries which were the perfect addition. This will definitely be added to the cheat meal rotation. — Kailynn Johnson

Tug’s Casual Grill | BBQ Cheddar Burger (Photo: Shara Clark)

Tug’s Casual Grill
BBQ Pulled Pork Burger

For this year’s Burger Week, Tug’s is offering an upgrade to their BBQ Cheddar Burger — a menu item served with fries, typically priced at $16.95. So consider their BW deal a steal! The standard is a half-pound sirloin patty, topped with housemade barbecue sauce, cheddar cheese, crispy onion straws, lettuce, tomato, onion, and pickles (as pictured above). The special will come with a helping of housemade pulled pork in the mix. I tried the standard on my visit, since the pulled pork wasn’t available at the time. No complaints from me! This was a top-notch burger. The slightly sweet sourdough bun was the perfect vessel for its contents. The well-seasoned massive patty had that fresh-from-the-grill crust. The surprise bits of crunch from the fried onion straws were delightful. Now, envision all that with a scoop of pulled pork. Is your mouth watering? It should be. P.S. The seasoned fries are the bomb (think Back Yard Burgers but way better) and are included in the BW offering. Don’t sleep on this! — Shara Clark

Loflin Yard | Baja Burger (Photo: Chris McCoy)

Loflin Yard 
Baja Burger

I always have a relaxing time when I go to Loflin Yard. For this visit to the sprawling, mostly outdoor compound, the heat that has gripped the Bluff City had mostly dissipated for the evening. I grabbed a table in view of the TV that was showing the Olympic gymnastics team final, and ordered my Baja Burger. 

The Baja is a staple of the Loflin Yard menu. It comes with a thin patty on a brioche bun, topped with red cabbage slaw, spicy aioli, bacon, and pineapple. It’s the latter ingredient that is unusual for a burger. But, as it turns out, it is not a showstopper like pineapple on pizza. I was pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed the Baja. In this burger, the beef is not the primary attraction. Instead, it’s the combination of the pineapple and thick slabs of peppered bacon. It’s quite tasty and quite unusual. At least, I wouldn’t have thought of it! As with most things in life, it’s the balance that makes it good. Simone Biles would probably approve. — Chris McCoy

Bain Barbecue | Special Burger (Photo: Chris McCoy)

Bain Barbecue 
Special Burger

The former food truck moved into a brick and mortar location in Cooper-Young a little over two years ago, says manager Emily James. The idea to add a burger to their menu came after a Super Bowl party where the restaurant ran out of their trademark Texas-style barbecue brisket. “We tried to start doing burgers back in February. We started out with wings on our Anytime menu, and burgers just kind of came naturally.”

Bain’s Special Burger is a smashburger that features a Home Place Pastures patty with “shrettuce,” house-made pickles, and Jones Orchard heirloom tomatoes. It’s topped with a secret sauce. “I think it brings out the burger flavor a lot,” says James. 

The smashburger comes on a Martin’s potato buns. “Every sandwich has a Martin’s potato bun,” says James. “We just started putting those on the grill, too, and let ’em sit for a second. We let ’em get a little crusty.” 

For a side with your juicy burger, you can choose the five-cheese mac, a baked potato salad, brisket pinto beans, jalapeno lime slaw, or the traditional french fries. The best part about getting a burger at a barbecue joint is that you can dip your fries in one of Bain’s barbecue sauces. I tried all three flavors — hot, sweet, and mustard — and unexpectedly, the mustard sauce won! — CM

Betly Sports Bar & Grill | Smokey Baloney (Photo: Courtesy Southland Casino)

Betly Sports Bar & Grill
Smokey Baloney

So, uh, here’s the thing. I don’t eat meat, but I’m supposed to write about a burger? Who in their right mind wants the opinion of a pescatarian about a burger? I don’t even have one to give. I guess I’ll have to stick to objective facts when it comes to the Smokey Baloney at Betly Sports Bar & Grill in Southland Casino & Hotel. First off, what a fun name for a burger. I love the word baloney; I won’t eat it but I’ll call it any day. Ain’t that some baloney? The Smokey Baloney is made of all-beef patty, beef brisket, half-pound fried all-beef bologna, onion rings, and Memphis barbecue sauce. I’m sure that sounds delightful for any burger-loving fool. You can check out the picture above — as they say a picture is worth a thousand words.  

And if you’re looking for an excuse to hit the slot machines, a $6.99 burger sounds as good as any. So get a bang for your buck while you win (or lose) major bucks. — Abigail Morici

Belle Tavern | The Tavern Smash (Photo: Harold Cook)

Belle Tavern
The Tavern Smash

The best way to get to Belle Tavern is by going to the door on Barboro Alley. It’s just a couple hundred feet from Second Street and the Peabody Hotel, but you’ll feel mysterious, in the know, like a spy. It could be almost an underground secret, except for the fact that it’s one of downtown locals’ favorite spots. If you haven’t been to the Belle Tavern yet, this would be a great week to start. And a great way to introduce yourself to their tasty menu would be to order the Tavern Smash, a delicious concoction consisting of a four-ounce, ground-beef smash patty, onions, pickles, dijonnaise mustard, pickles, and a scrumptious house-made sesame bun. Mmmm. This is a cheeseburger classic, and it’s made to be smashed — into your tummy! — Bruce VanWyngarden

Wimpy’s | Rajun Cajun Burger (Photo: Jacob Crafton)

Wimpy’s
Rajun Cajun Burger

As most of us know, one of the most famous lines in Western letters goes this way: “I’d gladly pay you Tuesday for a hamburger today.” The sentiment and the syntax belong to one J. Wellington Wimpy, a character in the comic strip Popeye, created by E.C. Segar. A louche fellow, something of a deadbeat, Wimpy, a chum of the title character, speaks for many of us who want to lay hands (or chomps) on something desirable before we have the means to get it gainfully.

If your goal is the same as Wimpy’s — a good, garden-variety burger — you can get it seven days a week at one of three Memphis-area locations of the Wimpy’s Burgers and Fries. For just over 10 bucks, you can get the basic version — the Wimpy burger — with fries. That’s the kind I got at the Wimpy’s at 7424 US Highway 64, just down the street from my digs. It’s satisfyingly plump, cooked to one’s specifications with all the usual fixings. For a tiny bit more, you can get a super-charged variety called the Rajun Cajun, but for Burger Week, it’s just $6.99. The Rajun Cajun has its own renown, and I sampled enough of the special sauce that goes on it to attest that it’s good and spicy. — Jackson Baker 

For more Burger Week information, visit memphisflyer.com/page/burgerweek. Follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and X (@memphisflyer) and get up-to-date info on everything #FlyerBurgerWeek.

Categories
Opinion The Last Word

Memphis Is My Boyfriend: Being an Adult Child

It’s time for another intentional tween/teen-friendly Memphis weekend! Keep in mind, my kids are 15, 12, 12, and 10 years old. This weekend will really be focused on fun things to do with the kids as well as enjoying some adult libations. Because who wants to be an adult all the time? Enjoy Memphis!

Muggin Coffeehouse

Okay, it’s Thursday, and this has been the Wednesday-est Thursday ever! FYI: Wednesdays and I haven’t gotten along for a few years now. Humpday just drags so slowly and the most ridiculous things always happen on a Wednesday. And that’s how this Thursday was acting. But whenever I feel irritated by having to be an adult, I make sure I take some time to nurture my inner child. So when I heard that the new Uptown Muggin location had game night on Thursday, I was super excited. Hubby conducted the Pick Up Kids from School Tour, which consisted of one elementary school, one middle school, and one high school. I finished up a few emails at work and popped over to Muggin! Hubby and I ordered lattes and the kids ordered every pastry possible and frappes. We played chess (I won), Connect Four (I lost), and Jenga, which was also used to create a domino effect. It was such a good time. All of my kids had smiles on their faces. Hubby and I were able to steal a few proud-parent glances at each other from across the cafe. Everyone was happy. All we were missing was more teenagers and teen parents to talk to!

Grind City Brewing Company

Saturday is fun day! Hubby and I woke up feeling 10 years younger. Because this doesn’t happen often, we wanted to take advantage of this new found youth and do the things we used to do in college. Drink beer and play outdoor sports. While the kids can’t enjoy a cold brewski, they can enjoy some sunshine, Arbo’s cheese dip and chips, and soda. So we packed up the Frisbee and yard darts and headed to Grind City Brewery.

The weather was beautiful and the view was absolutely stunning. After grabbing a few cold beers, we hit the open fields. The kids and I enjoyed leisurely throwing the Frisbee and playing yard darts. But then a gentleman approached us and taught us how to play real Frisbee. Well, the horse poop hit the fan (figuratively). Feeling 10 years younger, and invincible due to the beer, I wasn’t about to be outdone by some ragged teenagers. We played hard. I caught a few Frisbees. My son ripped his pants. Grass-stains became the norm. Someone whined because they were losing, and my beer buzz wore off. As we rehydrated and finished off the last of the Arbo’s cheese dip, we high-fived each other for time well spent.

Burgers for kids
Beers at Crosstown Brewery for adults

Farm Burger and Crosstown Brewery

It’s Sunday and all I want to do is chill and read my book. My body aches and my knees are creaking. I’m seriously feeling every millisecond of my age! But as I bask in the soft sunlight peeking in through my bedroom windows, a child knocks on my door. “Mom, have you checked the family Google calendar? I added Farm Burger to it last night. You should have gotten the email, too!” As I lazily close my e-book about Murder Bots, I check my Gmail account. And sure enough, there’s a calendar notification. I ponder. Weigh the pros and cons. Look at the start time of the event. (It’s mid-afternoon.) And I select “Yes.” I hear the kids give shouts of praise through the door and I can only imagine the fist bumps and high-fives they are giving each other.

Later in the afternoon, with my book tucked in my purse, I park at the Crosstown Concourse. The kids announce that they want burgers. So I announced to no one in particular, that I want beer. They will head to Farm Burger, and I will go to Crosstown Brewery. We talk about stranger danger and the importance of sticking together and finding the nearest adult in authority if trouble arises. I also tell them exactly where I will be and remind them to actually answer the phone if I call or text. Soon, we separate. I receive a text from them full of smiles and a table full of food. Great! I continue sipping my stout beer and reading Murder and Mamon. I received another text stating that they’re going to check out the art gallery. Perfect! I continue with my leisure activity. Then I receive a phone call. “Mom, I don’t remember how to use this circular music player?” Huh? Oh, they mean a record player. Yeah, I have work to do!

Patricia Lockhart is a native Memphian who loves to read, write, cook, and eat. Her days are filled with laughter with her four kids and charming husband. By day, she’s a school librarian and writer, but by night … she’s asleep. @realworkwife @memphisismyboyfriend

Categories
Cover Feature Food & Wine Food & Drink News

Merry Burger Week!

Welcome to Memphis Flyer Burger Week!

Your burger tree is up and decorated, hamburger carols have taken over the airwaves, and the children can’t wait to find those condiment packets hidden by the Burger Bunny.

Maybe not, but Burger Week is here and the Flyer staff did some recon to get you ready. We ate burgers from the 10 restaurants offering specials — and some special burgers they’ve cooked up for this most wonderful time of the year. We tried to eat the burger each restaurant will offer. If they didn’t have their special Burger Week burger, we ate something else to at least give you a flavor (if not a taste) of what you can expect.

Merry Burger Week to all!

Loflin Yard

Old Bridge Burger

I’m not usually a fan of the multiple-meat burger. It’s a gambit that seems like gilding the lily. It’s not that I’m a beef purist — far from it! You can make a good burger with anything from bison to ground turkey, and veggie burgers are in their own diverse category. But generally, I think a burger should have a single protein patty which all other ingredients complement.

The Old Bridge Burger made me rethink my priors. It’s a fat Angus beef patty topped with a thin layer of saucy pulled pork, slaw, and a couple of lightly breaded onion rings. You’re not going to be hungry after taking this mouth-stretching monster’s full girth. Instead of effectively adding a second pork patty, the barbecue acts like a condiment — and every right-thinking Memphian knows that barbecue sauce is superior to ketchup. The pickles on the ground floor play well with the vinegar note from the ’cue, while the o-rings up top add a pleasing crunch without overpowering the rest of the stack. As with everything, balance is key. — Chris McCoy

Belly Acres, Hot Pow (Photo: Toby Sells)

Belly Acres

Hot Pow

Belly Acres is a Memphis burger institution. The OG Overton Square location opened back in 2014, if you can believe it. Since then, Belly Acres has become a reliable burger bastion. It lures taste buds back with fresh ingredients and a dazzling array of 15 burgers that feature everything from squash to waffles.

Belly Acres’ Burger Week burger was not ready to launch on a visit last week. So, I hunted for something exotic. I read the word “chorizo,” my mouth literally watered, and my mind was made up.

Belly Acres describes the Hot Pow as a “chorizo and grass-fed beef blended patty topped with pepper jack cheese, fresh spinach, and caramelized onions on a lightly toasted sourdough bun.” Those words on a page, however, do not do the Hot Pow justice.

Mine was melty on the inside with a great crunch from the spinach. The bun cushioned in all the right places. The chorizo is the Hot Pow’s main character, though, and it delivers the spicy, porky, sausage-y goods in a riveting think-outside-the-bun performance. — Toby Sells

Flying Saucer, Royale with Cheese (Photo: Fying Saucer Draught Emporium)

Flying Saucer Draught Emporium

Royale with Cheese

You can go Vincent Vega (the Travolta character of Pulp Fiction) one better — and much closer to home than Paris — by getting your Royale with Cheese at the Flying Saucer Draught Emporium (Peabody Place location only). I had mine at the Cordova location, while sitting bar-side and staring at an impressively complete-looking wall of beers on tap.

The burger with fries is every bit of a meal. On the plate, it looks like what it is — handsomely fat, round, and custom-made — enticing to eye and palate alike and a test case of the old adage of something so fine you want to eat it and have it, too.

The more-than-ample beef patty is cooked to one’s preference, and it shares space with chopped onion, American cheese, jalapeño bacon, mustard, and spiked ketchup. The bun itself, as with any good burger, is a tasty part of the meld. The whole package is bursting with flavor.

The burgers on the menu are in the $12 to $14 range, and, with names like Jeff Buckley, Doc Holliday, and Sputnik Monroe, suggest a wide range of provenances.

And that “Draught Emporium” part of the established’s name is no joke. The variety of libations available is enough to fill a tabloid-sized sheet, front and back, and with fine print. — Jackson Baker

Grill Grabz, Smokehouse Burger (Photo: Bruce VanWyngarden)

Grill Grabz

Smokehouse Burger

Grill Grabz is a food truck operated by LaKendrick and Danielle Chavers that serves the holy pantheon of Memphis food — ribs, catfish, chicken wings — and it all looks amazing on their Facebook page. But my assignment was to try their Smokehouse Burger, and … well, let me see if I can just put this in layman’s terms: DAMN, Y’ALL.

This thing is the Great Pyramid of burgers: two smoky beef patties, crisp white onion slices, a tomato slice, lettuce, two slices of melty cheese, bacon, and your condiments of choice stacked between two halves of a soft sesame seed bun. It will fill both of your hands (and your lap, if you aren’t careful). But don’t spill any or you’ll regret it.

The thing that sets the Grill Grabz burger apart is the smoky flavor that LaKendrick gets from cooking the meat on an actual grill in the truck. It’s gotta be hot work, but creating art is never easy, right? This is a burger that tastes like something your Pop might come up with on his backyard grill — smoky, fresh, outdoorsy, and cooked with love.

The Grill Grabz truck is most often stationed in front of a now-defunct Steak & Shake on Hack’s Cross Road, a block south of Bill Morris Parkway. The truck also makes forays out into the city, so keep an eye on their Facebook page for location updates. Danielle advises customers to call ahead with their orders in order to avoid the line. And that’s good advice, given that Smokehouse Burgers are prepared from scratch. Now, go get you one. — Bruce VanWyngarden

Plant Based Heat, Memphis Bella (Photo: Abigail Morici)

Plant Based Heat

Memphis Bella

I’m a vegetarian. So, luckily, Plant Based Heat has my back with its meatless options.

The other day, I got their Memphis Bella, a portobello mushroom Philly. When I picked up my to-go order from the counter, the server jokingly asked if he could have some since it looked so good. No, sirree. With mushrooms, mild banana peppers, tomato, vegan mozzarella and mayo, and sauteed bell peppers and onions on a hoagie roll, this sandwich was too good to share. Each bite had a pop of flavor that even I could appreciate. I normally don’t like mayo, but the vegan mayo had me second-guessing my aversion. As for my dog Blobby who dutifully sat by my side drooling the whole meal, well, he’s not too happy with me right now, seeing that I didn’t spare him a bite. But, hey, it’s Burger Week, and I’m sure I’ll be back to try their Plant Based Heat Sliders, made specially for the week with two sliders topped with spinach, vegan mayo, pickles, tomato, and grilled onions. And maybe I’ll spare a bite this time, though if it’s anything like the Memphis Bella, I doubt I will. Sorry, Blobby. — Abigail Morici

Pimentos, Dirty Mean & Nasty (Photo: Jon W. Sparks)

Pimentos Burgers, Bar & Grill

Dirty Mean & Nasty

There’s a nice array of burgers on the menu at Pimentos, and one in particular caught the eye (and made the mouth water): the Dirty Mean & Nasty.

We weren’t able to sample the burger the bar and grill will offer for the Flyer’s Burger Week, but this intriguingly named dish promised to offer a foretaste of the delights to come.

The menu says it’s an Angus burger with cheddar cheese, honey pepper bacon, fried jalapeños, and sriracha aioli. The server confided that it was her favorite, so I made the commitment. When it was served, with a no-nonsense steak knife thrust through its heart, I was flummoxed. How do you even approach it to get a bite?

It was big and round and mocking, daring you to try to chomp down. That knife was necessary to gain access, so I sawed at it and released the jalapeños, fun bits with crunch, and it was not too overheated. The burger itself was flavorful, doing exactly what it meant to do in partnership with the cheddar and bacon.

Pimentos offers several other burgers and sliders on the menu with a variety of touches. There’s pimento (natch), avocado, scallions, fried egg, and fried onions.

My only issue with my order was that it was a total lie. There was nothing dirty about it, it presented no meanness, and was entirely un-nasty. Which is what we learned from that famous Aesop’s fable moral that says you can’t tell a burger by its moniker. But you sure can stuff yourself on it. — Jon W. Sparks

Tops Bar-B-Q, Hamburger (Photo: Michael Donahue)

Tops Bar-B-Q

Hamburger

The slogan for Tops is “Memphis’ Best Bar-B-Q Since 1952.” I think another slogan should be, “Memphis’ Best Hamburger Since 1952 — or whenever it was introduced.”

I love the burgers at Tops Bar-B-Q. I always say they taste like the 1950s (when I grew up). There’s something nostalgic about it. But I really had no idea when Tops began selling hamburgers, so I gave Tops vice president, Hunter Brown, a call.

He says, “My dad graduated from Kingsbury High School in 1965. And every day after high school they’d ride their bikes over to Summer and National and get a cheeseburger combo: cheeseburger, a bag of chips, and a Coke for 55 cents.”

I love the diced onion Tops uses instead of a big slab of hard-to-eat onion, and I ask for everything on the sandwich. They get their beef from Charlie’s Meat Market, but Brown says he’s “sworn to secrecy” on the recipe. And it’s fresh — “literally, that cow was alive five days ago,” he says.

As for the dressing, Brown says, “We call it ‘Tops’ way’: mayonnaise, shredded lettuce, a tomato slice, pickle, and diced onions.” — Michael Donahue

Huey’s, World Famous Huey Burger (Photo: Shara Clark)

Huey’s

World Famous Huey Burger

It might be a stretch to say the signature burger served at Huey’s is known and loved across the globe — it’s meat and bread, not Beyoncé — but there’s a reason why it’s been voted “Best Burger” by Flyer readers in our Best of Memphis poll since, like, ever.

Despite their many accolades, I’ve heard people throw shade at Huey’s burgers — because they’re “not the same as they used to be,” or something. I’d like to address this by asking, “When’s the last time you had one?” Admittedly, for me, it had been a while. But the World Famous Huey Burger did not disappoint. It’s exactly what you look for in a tried-and-true burger: a hefty hunk of beef, your choice of cheddar or Swiss cheese, and as many of the fixings as you’d like — mayo, lettuce, tomato, mustard, pickle, onion — on a buttered, toasted sesame seed bun.

Upon first sight, the question “How wide can I open my mouth?” arises. The whole shebang requires some positioning to bite into. The fatty juice and gooey cheese drip into a pool in the paper-lined basket below as you work your way through, at the same time turning the bun into a slip and slide for its contents. But you gotta get messy for a good burger. This is America, and we’re eating a world-famous burger here, guys. Seriously, it was really good. The meat was well-seasoned, those big-ass steak fries killed it, per usual, and it paired well with a pint of Memphis Made Summer Frills (a limited-edition golden ale only available on draft at Huey’s locations). Get you some! — Shara Clark

Farm Burger, The Peach Burger (Photo: Alex Greene)

Farm Burger

The Peach Burger

The Peach Burger, the special concoction from Farm Burger for Burger Week, appeals to your eyes as well as your taste buds. The glistening fruit, the roasted red serrano peppers, and the luscious spicy pimento cheese draws you in, and the first bite confirms that its blend of savory, spicy, and sweet is a classic combination. Farm Burger manager Dan Tain says, “We used to do a peach burger with Jones Orchard peaches, as well as local feta cheese and some arugula on it, so we were considering going back to that, but then we put a different spin on it.” Keeping the Jones Orchard peaches front and center, they then proceeded to spice things up. And the toasted potato bun lends the flavor that much more complex.

“We have a new culinary director at Farm Burger,” says Tain. “Drew Van Leuvan just came to us three months ago. And chef Drew came up with the idea of using local peaches with spicy pimento cheese and roasted serrano peppers. It’s nice and bright and colorful. I think it’s a great deal with the grass-fed beef. People are excited to try it. It’s seasonal, and that’s what Farm Burger’s about.” — Alex Greene

Tenero Cafe, the Butcher’s Burger (Photo: Samuel X. Cicci)

Tenero Cafe & Butcher

The Butcher’s Burger

It caught me a bit by surprise when I first checked out Tenero Cafe & Butcher on Mendenhall. The new cafe/restaurant/bar/butcher shop was a chic-looking upgrade on the spot’s former iteration, Southall Café. And watching employees roll out some fine-looking ground beef in the butcher section had me salivating at the prospect of their burger.

Tenero’s featured item for Burger Week is the Butcher’s Burger. And sure enough, diners get freshly ground beef straight from the butcher shop. But we’re not just talking about a small bit of beef. This baby boasts some double-patty action. So, don’t walk in if you’re just a little hungry. The generous patties are sandwiched between a soft brioche bun (shout-out to the bottom bun for not getting soggy) and dressed with American cheese, arugula, caramelized onions, and pickles. The menu also made mention of a chef’s secret sauce, but I’ll admit I was unable to detect what kind of flavors that was putting down.

What sets the Butcher’s Burger apart is the quality of the beef, prepped fresh in-house. There’s no toughness to the patties, no chewy exterior to power through. Overall, it’s simply an approachable, traditional American burger that forgoes any zany bells and whistles in favor of simplicity. — Samuel X. Cicci

Categories
Cover Feature Food & Drink News

Burger Bonanza: Celebrating Burger Week with 10 Bluff City Burgers

Everybody loves Burger Week. At least, everyone on the Flyer editorial team certainly seems downright hungry to devour a burger (and write about the experience) for this annual cover story.

And why shouldn’t they be? Hamburgers are the black T-shirt of American cuisine — they go with almost everything. Whatever your palate, you can dress them up or down to your taste, even eschewing the meat if that’s what floats your burger boat (and as 20 percent of this story’s samplings do). This roundup of 10 Bluff City burgers runs the gamut, from the classic to the most gourmet of garnishes.

Whet your appetite with these helpings of hamburger, and then see page 17 for a full list of the Burger Week specials available around town. In the meantime, if, like Frank Zappa and The Mothers of Invention, you find yourself “Cruisin’ for Burgers,” we hope this list will be your burgerific guide.

The Bishop Burger at Bishop
Bishop, inside Central Station Hotel at 545 South Main, feels both familiar and otherworldly: You’re in the heart of historic Memphis, but with a French twist. A light Eurodisco take on Françoise Hardy’s “Le Temps De L’Amour” echoes through the room when the burger enters, buttered brioche buns gleaming, a steak knife plunged into the center, and all else is forgotten. Much care has gone into this creation, which some food-savvy friends have dubbed the best burger in town.

The double patties are made with beef from Evans Farms, blended with filet and short rib trimmings, topped with cheddar cheese and “all natural, humane” bacon from Niman Ranch. And then there are the enhancements: a B1 sauce, “a play on A1 sauce,” essentially a red wine and butter demi-glace incorporating more bits of filet, and a tomato aioli. The latter is made with tomatoes fermented for several days in the Bishop kitchen, adding a subtle tartness to the profile.

If you opt for pommes frites, try them with the garlic and dijon aioli, which takes the French penchant for mayonnaise with fries and throws a mustardy bite into the proceedings. Merveilleuse! — Alex Greene

Bishop, 545 S. Main Street #111

Steakhouse Burger at RP Tracks (Photo: Shara Clark)

Steakhouse Burger at RP Tracks
“Proud loser of the Best Burger in Memphis award for what, 30 years now?” That’s the text on an advertisement RP Tracks ran in this publication a few months back, poking fun at the fact that they’ve never made it to the top in the Flyer’s Best of Memphis “Best Burger” category. That may well be true, but their burgers are the business.

The standard RP Burger is a good go-to if you’re looking for a classic (8-oz. Angus patty and your choice of cheese, alongside a setup of lettuce, tomato, onion, and pickles), but don’t stop there. The bacon cheddar and jalapeño burgers are both solid choices, but — being a fungi fanatic — I opt for the steakhouse. A thick, juicy beef patty is topped with grilled red onions and mushrooms, covered with melted Gouda shreds, and sandwiched in a potato bun. You can add the fixings to it, if you’d like, but with or without the extras, you’re gonna need to take a tip from Guy Fieri and do “the Hunch” — cradle it from underneath to hold it all together, tilt your head to the side, and open wide to get all that goodness in one bite. Any of Tracks’ burgers can be made with a Beyond Burger veggie patty, and they’re served with hand-cut fries. I go for the tots because that’s how I roll. — Shara Clark

RP Tracks, 3547 Walker Avenue

The Fye Junt at Plant Based Heat (Photo: Samuel X. Cicci)

The Fye Junt at Plant Based Heat
It’s fire, fire, everywhere with one of Plant Based Heat’s signature burgers. The new vegan restaurant by Ralph Johnson brings in all the traditional flavors of Southern cooking, just without the meat. For burger time, I emerged slightly singed, but none the worse for wear, after diving into the Fye Junt burger.

The Beyond Meat patty is simply the canvas for the firestorm to come. Jalapeño peppers? Check. Vegan pepper jack cheese and spicy mayo? Absolutely. But instead of a simply overwhelming heat wave, PBH’s secret sauce, coupled with Memphis Sweet Heat BBQ sauce, brings the spice back down to a manageable level just before things get out of hand. For good measure, toss in fresh spinach, tomato, and caramelized onions.

The Fye Junt fresh off the grill sure feels like messy and greasy goodness, with a texture akin to biting into a regular ol’ beef patty. Even if you’re a devout carnivore, like me, the Fye Junt will satisfy, I promise. Just maybe make sure there’s a glass of water nearby. For it’s all in the name: The Fye Junt truly brings plant-based heat. — Samuel X. Cicci

Plant Based Heat, 669 S. Highland Street

Ostrich Burger at Off the Hoof (Photo: Julie Ray)

Ostrich Burger at Off the Hoof
I’d heard about two great places for a burger in Arlington — Off the Hoof and Slingshot Charlie’s. I planned to try both and the best burger would get a write-up. By default Off the Hoof won the competition. Slingshot Charlie’s was shuttered for the week so that the owner and staff could celebrate the Fourth of July. Don’t fret, Charlie should be slinging shots by the time you read this.

At Off the Hoof, I had planned to have the $5 house burger. But then I saw the “Big Game” menu. I had to go there. It boasted buffalo, elk, wild boar, ostrich, and venison burgers. I was informed that fresh ostrich meat was shipped in on Tuesdays and Fridays. This tasty trek was on a Friday. Score.

I made a mistake. It tasted like beef. I expected more. There were some interesting sides ordered — Frito Pie (Fritos corn chips, chili, and cheese) and Freta Fries (hand-cut battered fries with feta cheese and buffalo sauce).

I wish I’d tried the $5 burger. The place was full of regulars. You don’t get regulars with a $19 ostrich burger that tastes like beef. Google informed me that ostrich was a lot healthier than beef and an ostrich looks like Big Bird.

My apologies to Sesame Street, but I took that as a win. — Julie Ray

Off the Hoof, 12013 US-70, Arlington, Tennessee

Mr. Good Burger at Roxie’s Grocery (Photo: Chris McCoy)

Mr. Good Burger at Roxie’s Grocery
“I hope you don’t have any work to do this afternoon.”

I’m standing next to Daris Leatherwood, chef and owner of the Sum Light Bistro food truck. We’re in line at Roxie’s Grocery, waiting for our orders. The cooks are presiding over a full griddle. It’s lunchtime, and we’re behind a big order destined for workers at nearby St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital. Roxie’s is an Uptown landmark, the kind of place where you take time to talk to your neighbors. Leatherwood’s been telling me about launching his food truck when he asks what I ordered. I’m getting the Mr. Good Burger, the H-bomb of the Bluff City burger scene. I tell him I’ve got to write about it once I’ve eaten it. “You’re gonna have to take a nap,” he says.

The Mr. Good Burger comes wrapped in a foil package that’s bigger than both my fists — and I’m a bass player with long fingers. It’s a double bacon cheeseburger with all the trimmings, but that generic description doesn’t convey the sheer magnitude of this classic. The four strips of super-thick bacon are bent double and inserted between the patties. I have to unhinge my jaw to take the first bite and blast off to carnivore heaven. They call it “Mr. Good Burger” for a reason. This is the Platonic ideal of the two-patty griddle burger, a mixed-meat masterpiece.

Now I’ve got to lay down. The things I do for journalism … — Chris McCoy

Roxie’s Grocery, 520 N. 3rd Street

The Bshop Wagyu Burger at the Beauty Shop (Photo: Jon W. sparks)

The Bshop Wagyu Burger at the Beauty Shop

My burger of choice, the Bshop Wagyu Burger at the Beauty Shop, is daunting, understandably pricey, and a thing of wonder. The $12 delight comes with a tasty special sauce, lettuce, tomato, cheese, pickles, and onions. I ordered bacon, avocado, and mushrooms on top of that (75 cents each) because I could. Cheeses available are American (my choice), cheddar, pimento cheese, provolone, and gruyère. And you can get an egg in the mix for another buck.

Once you’ve outfitted it, you’ll find it difficult to deploy in the traditional way. There is a top and bottom torta roll, but everything in the middle makes it difficult to chomp without dislocating a jaw, so you may want to have utensils at the ready. Still, going at the mushrooms with fingers or the avocado with a fork doesn’t diminish the pleasure in the slightest. The beef is sublime and the veggies are yummy. It is fairly typical of what you get at the Beauty Shop — or any of Karen Carrier’s eateries — in bringing forth the freshest ingredients and splendidly prepared dishes. — Jon W. Sparks

The Beauty Shop, 966 S. Cooper Street

Firecracker Burger at Clancy’s Cafe (Photo: Michael Donahue)

Firecracker Burger at Clancy’s Cafe

I can’t resist saying the Firecracker Burger at Clancy’s Cafe bursts with flavor. But it really does. It’s delicious.

But I won’t say “explode” because it’s not one of those so-hot-it’s-inedible food items.

“It is two 8-ounce patties, ground beef, that’s stuffed with our homemade pimento cheese and pickled jalapeños,” says Tyler Clancy, owner of the Red Banks, Mississippi restaurant.

“And then we fry the burger, of course. It’s on a toasted sourdough bun with our hand-breaded onion rings. The onion rings are on the burger. And then we do our in-house queso cheese dip on all of it.”

The burger is just one of those things that was so good it stayed around. “This was like a Fourth of July special probably five, six years ago. It had great success. People really liked it. It eventually made its way on the menu.”

And, again, this isn’t some fiery burger that will make you run for water. “I would just describe it as more of a mild to medium heat. The jalapeños aren’t very hot. So it’s more of a spiciness than it is a real tongue-burner.” — Michael Donahue

Clancy’s Cafe, Hwy. 178 West, Red Banks, Mississippi

Chipotle Black Bean Burger at Evelyn & Olive (Photo: Abigail Morici)

Chipotle Black Bean Burger at Evelyn & Olive
As a Catholic, I’ve made my fair share of mandatory confessions, but this is, perhaps, my most embarrassing one yet: I tried my first burger in 2019, not as a curious toddler but as a semi-functioning 20-year-old picky-eater. It was a veggie burger on a certain local college campus, where my options were limited, my standards sinking, my expectations low, and, man, that burger was sinfully bad. Thankfully, I had the wherewithal not to give up just yet on expanding my palate, and I tried the Chipotle Black Bean Burger at Evelyn & Olive. And hallelujah, what a delight!

The ciabatta bun is lightly toasted, and the black bean patty, topped with tomato and lettuce, has just the right amount of crisp. But the mango-barbecue sauce is the real star of the show with a smoky but sweet flavor. Plus, the dish came with a side, so I also devoured some fried plantains, which mmmm, I could snack on all day and night and the next morning, too. Overall, the black bean burger is pretty simple compared to the other Jamaican and Southern dishes on the menu, but Evelyn & Olive can never disappoint. — Abigail Morici

Evelyn & Olive, 630 Madison Avenue

No.1 Farm Burger at Farm Burger (Photo: Courtesy Farm Burger)

No. 1 Farm Burger at Farm Burger
The eponymous sandwich at Farm Burger in Crosstown Concourse is exactly what you’d want something called a “farm burger” to be — fat, juicy, but tight enough in its bun to be easily managed by hand. Cooked to your order (I like mine medium well), the patty I had was topped with cheddar and a generous layer of caramelized onions and marinated in the establishment’s “f.b. sauce” (mayonnaise, garlic, and a touch of chili were some of the recognizable components). The bun encasing all these goodies was an integral part of the package, as well, its breaded halves neither melted on nor floppily separate.

The burger, which is served in a basket, can be further customized more or less to the customer’s taste, and a variety of sides is available. I was happy enough with the basic Farm Burger as normally prepared, but I was curious enough about what was billed as “pimento cheese fries” to give that menu item a try. It turned out to be a delectable (and generously proportioned) selection of french fries smothered in melted pimento cheese and crowned with sliced jalapeños. Forks are available. You can eat as many of the peppers — or as few — as you choose. It may depend on what your drink choice is; mine was a glass of a refreshingly light pilsner beer. Standard teas and soft drinks can be had as well. — Jackson Baker

Farm Burger, 1350 Concourse Avenue #175

Assassin Burger at Wally Hatchet’s (Photo: Toby Sells)

Assassin Burger at Wally Hatchet’s
Drive east past the Malco Summer Drive-In, cross the Wolf River, pass Golf and Games, and drive past the Shoney’s graveyard of Summer and Sycamore View. Find self-control enough to pass Elena’s Taco Shop, cross Elmore Road, and you’ll find Wally Hatchet’s, nestled in a strip mall with a how-can-this-still-be-Memphis address.

The lunch-rush crowd was finishing up as I entered. Customer graffiti covered the walls in between colorful prints of Hank Jr., Merle Haggard, and the like. The aesthetic was NASCAR-dad man-cave with a collage of art (like a painted board that reads “rock me baby”), a dented piece of a race car, a giant Harley-Davidson sign, and a toilet-roll holder shaped like a revolver. One wall was dedicated to military veterans.

Given the drive, I wanted the wildest burger Wally Hatchet’s had to offer. The Assassin Burger was tasty but mild, given an ingredient list that included pepper jack cheese, grilled jalapeños, and pepper sauce that tasted an awful lot like A1.

Wally Hatchet’s won’t become my next burger obsession. But, if you’re out that way, give it a try. — Toby Sells

Wally Hatchet’s, 6439 Summer Avenue

Categories
Cover Feature News

Burger Time! Taste-Testing 10 Great Memphis Burgers

Did you have a hamburger on the Fourth of July? Of course you did. You’re no dummy. Maybe it was a little burnt from the grill. Piled dangerously high with all the fixings. Maybe, just maybe, you broke out the mayochup.

That’s the thing about burgers. You can enhance them to Kim Kardashian-like proportions or just keep it as simple as the classic patty, pickle, onion, tomato, lettuce, bun. It’s all good.

We love a good hamburger, no matter how they’re made or what’s on them. So, in this, Burger Week, we’ve turned our eye toward some fine examples of restaurants taking the humble burger and turning it up to 11. Ever think to yourself that what this burger is missing is an onion ring? No worries here. We’ve got you covered. Think an egg-topped burger is everything? Don’t fret. It’s in there. Like your burger good and greasy? Well, sure, who doesn’t? It’s there, too.

For Burger Week, happening now through July 16th, some 26 restaurants are offering their chosen burger for the low low price of $5.99. Now that’s a deal you just can’t pass up. Let us know what you ate with the social tag #FlyerBurgerWeek.

Slider Inn

Flat Iron at Slider Inn

What’s the difference between a slider and a burger? A slider is a type of burger defined by its bun size. The term was originally applied to White Castle’s small burger with caramelized onions served on steamed buns. But in the last few years, “slider” has proven to be as elastic a word as “burger.”

You can get a classic American meal of three sliders and fries at Slider Inn, but they also sell a variety of exotic sliders, from a falafel to a jerk pork version. The buffalo chicken version is a personal favorite, and the Big Deuce will satisfy the hardiest appetite, but without a doubt the most extreme burger on the menu is the Flat Iron.

It begins with a chunk of steak that overflows the confines of the slider bun, covered in melted cheese and topped with the sautéed onions that were one of the original slider signifiers and crispy onion straws. Roasted red bell peppers round out the toppings, and horseradish aioli, a tasty nod to steak culture, serves as a condiment.

The meat is a little more al dente than ground beef, but the flavor is juicy and immensely satisfying. The two different kinds of onions work in delicious tandem, and the peppers add a little extra smoky sweetness. The Flat Iron is a burger that punches way above its weight.

— Chris McCoy

Slider Inn, 2117 Peabody, 725-1155

The Bluff

Babineaux at
The Bluff

The Bluff, a popular Cajun-themed bistro on the Highland strip near the University of Memphis, is divided essentially into several separate but connected spaces — outdoor patios, a sports-bar entry space with seven screens to keep you interested as you sip and munch, and an interior dining-room area with a stage for live entertainment.

Burgers are a major component of the sports-bar menu, and the Babineaux is one of several specialty burgers offered there. It requires some big bites to take it all in. It’s a pile. Compressed between its top and bottom buns are: a thick fried onion ring, a layer of more onion pieces (raw), generous pieces of lettuce, a hefty slice of tomato, bacon strips, and homemade remoulade sauce — all of this in the service of a thick half-pound hunk of burger, topped with melted pepper jack and cooked to your pleasure. Served with fries as a side. Add mustard or ketchup as thou wilt, and open wide.

It’s a lot for $12, especially considering that those jumbo-sized patties are hand-shaped from fresh meat delivered fresh daily from local sources. Nothing assembly-made here!

— Jackson Baker

The Bluff, 535 S. Highland, 454-7771

Farm Burger

No. 2 Vegan Burger at Farm Burger

Nestled in the heart of Crosstown Concourse, near the famous winding red stairs leading to Crosstown Arts, is one of my favorite burger joints in town. (And if we’re being honest, I’m something of a hamburger fanatic. I get misty-eyed thinking about the steamed hammy from the long-gone Three Angels Diner, and I celebrate the Flyer‘s Burger Week like it’s a national holiday.) I’ve been eating my way through Farm Burger’s delicious menu since they opened, and this cover story gave me the perfect excuse to check another of their burgers off my list.

Though I’m not a vegetarian, my love for burgers is big enough to include room for the occasional beefless version. And what’s more extreme than a burger without a hint of meat? Farm Burger’s No. 2 Vegan Burger boasts a gluten-free patty made of kale, quinoa, cremini mushrooms, sweet potato, caramelized onions, and a veritable smorgasbord of spices. Topped with cucumber salad and garlic-lemon tahini dressing, this mouth-watering slice of plant-based deliciousness is equal parts spicy veggie pattie and cool, crisp salad on top. As an added bonus, Crosstown’s schedule is so jam-packed with fun events that diners at Farm Burger might have the unexpected pleasure of being serenaded by big-band jazz while they eat, as I was. Thanks, Memphis Jazz Workshop.

— Jesse Davis

Farm Burger, 1350 Concourse in Crosstown Concourse, 800-1851

TJ Mulligans

Barbecue Burger at TJ Mulligan’s

There’s a lot going on in this concoction, most of it good. First, there’s the base, a seven-ounce slab of grilled ground beef. Plenty of meat, right? Nope. TJ’s steps it up by topping the beef patty with a pile of slow-smoked pulled pork. What? Yes. And there’s more! Like, jalapeño cream cheese, coleslaw, and a tangy barbecue sauce. That ought to do it, you’d think. But noooo. For good measure, they top this baby with crispy onion straws. It’s a crazy mix of textures and savory flavors battling it out in your mouth. Somehow it all works beautifully. But, fair warning: It’s huge, and you’re probably going to want to split this bad boy with somebody.

— Bruce VanWyngarden

TJ Mulligan’s, 1817 Kirby Pkwy, 755-2481

Hopdoddy

Breakfast Burger at Hopdoddy

If Scrubs taught me about one thing, it’s the unsurpassable satisfaction of brinner (in case you live under a rock, that’s breakfast for dinner). I can’t handle a big morning meal. Sausage is a bit heavy, bacon a tad greasy, pancakes too sweet, and biscuits? Instant nap time. Altogether, certain detriments to my get-up-and-go.

While I love brinner, I’ll admit, I was hesitant to order Hopdoddy’s Breakfast Burger. Its hefty patty is a combination of ground sausage, smoked ham, and beef — definitely not what you envision when readying to dive into a big, juicy burger. Would it be too sausage-y? Ground ham? But let me tell you, this thing is pretty darn good.

That interesting combo-meat-grind was spiced just right. And things got better from there, with super melty American cheese, herbed mayo, a scrambled egg patty (no runny yolk here), a couple strips of crisp bacon, and, in lieu of hash browns, a stack of crunchy “potato hay,” which is just a fancy term for fried shoestring potatoes. It’s all the fixings for the best of breakfast plates, but all piled nicely on a soft, fresh-baked bun. Surprisingly, 10/10: would order again.

— Shara Clark

Hopdoddy Burger Bar, 2-6 S. Cooper and 4584 Poplar, 654-5100 and 683-0700

Mortimer’s Restaurant

Oyster Rockefeller Burger at Mortimer’s Restaurant

The Oyster Rockefeller Burger at Mortimer’s began as a “pregnancy craving” by the restaurant’s owner Christopher Jamieson’s wife, Ashley.

The burger consists of an eight-ounce hamburger patty, four fried oysters, jack cheese, and spinach artichoke dip made of sautéed spinach, artichokes, cheddar, and cream cheese.

“I was sitting at home and I was pregnant with our first son, McCall,” Ashley says. “I was craving oyster Rockefeller. And you can’t eat oysters when you’re pregnant.”

She tried to think of a way to get that taste of the famous appetizer without the oysters. She called Christopher and said, “Bring a burger with spinach and cheese.” But she told him to leave off the oysters.

Ashley loved the result. She told Christopher, “We have to add the fried oysters. This is going to taste like oyster Rockefeller.”

“I knew it was going to be fantastic,” she says.

“We sell a ton of burgers and we sell a ton of oysters,” Christopher says. “This is a way we could put the two together. Kind of a no-brainer.”

Christopher originally listed the Oyster Rockefeller burger as a blackboard special. He added it to the menu — permanently — six months later.

McCall, is 4 years old. “So, the oyster burger is as old as he is,” Ashley says.

— Michael Donahue

Mortimer’s Restaurant, 590 N. Perkins, 761-9321

Dixie Queen

Cheeseburger at Dixie Queen

Where’s a good burger? I ask my kids. “Five Guys,” they say. “No,” I say, done that. Josh says, “Okay, I go to the Dixie Queen near where I live in Cordova, and when they hand you that brown paper bag with grease spots all over, you know it’s going to be good.” There’s around a dozen of the no-frills joints around town, so, I go to the one on Summer Avenue next to what used to be the Paris Adult Theatre (we shall now respectfully call it the Luciann), and order the single cheeseburger, with everything, regular fries, and, help me Lord, a chocolate shake. Emerging from the window was a brown paper bag with grease spots all over and a cheery “You have a blessed day.” The burger was mashed at the bottom of the bag, crinkle fries dumped on top (the wife disapproves as that indicates “frozen” and they were, in fact, not memorable). It was a thinnish patty with gobs of mayo. Some tomato slices and lettuce bits were, I reckon, not fresh from the garden. No matter. It was sloppy and tasty and required every last one of the napkins layered on top of the bag. Get a double or triple if the patty size isn’t to your liking. Don’t expect your doctor to approve.

— Jon W. Sparks

Dixie Queen, 2442 Summer, 567-4701

Mojo Cafe

Byron Donut Burger at Mojo Cafe

I’m kind of a burger snob. I like it plain and simple — just good meat between a bun. So when I ordered the Byron Donut Burger from Mojo Cafe, I was a little wary.

Still, because I adore burgers, and donuts were my first love, I was hopeful about the journey my taste buds would soon embark on.

As the name suggests, this baby is served on a warm glazed donut. The sweet aroma of the donut caught my attention first. Before biting into the work of art in front of me, I paused to admire the craftsmanship of the sliced donut, buttered and toasted to perfection. An egg fried over-hard, melted cheese, six ounces of beef, and slices of candied bacon sit between it.

The donut might seem like the star of the show, but the ground chuck patty, seasoned with care like a burger from your mom’s kitchen, is the real MVP. It doesn’t matter what accoutrements are on a burger, it won’t rise to the occasion if the beef doesn’t. Mojo’s did.

Mojo bills itself as the “Burger and Sammie Joint where we make the best burger and Sammies you’ve ever had,” and I might have never heard a truer statement.

The donut burger is only sold on Tuesdays and Saturdays.

— Maya Smith

Mojo Cafe, 7124 US Highway 64,
207-6041

LBOE

The Grizz at LBOE

The Grizz at LBOE is the monster truck of Memphis burgers.

It’s bulked up with double everything — double beef patties, double portions of hardwood smoked bacon, and double cheese (yellow and white American). The whole thing is Memphis-ized with a tasteful drizzle of barbecue sauce. It’s all dressed out with lettuce, tomato, and pickles.

And, yeah, it is a whole thing. At $14.95, The Grizz is the single most expensive item on the LBOE menu. Its enormity was apparent even as the waitress was carrying it from the kitchen. Its size was enough to raise a few eyebrows from fellow diners. I could swear I heard a low thud as she sat the burger on the table.

How on earth was I going to eat this thing? I decided it wasn’t going to be a polite affair, so I simply dove in and did the best I could. You know how your head shakes when you’re trying to take too big of a bite? Yep. And I came away with sauce and all that other burgery goodness all over me.

The taste is all-American. It ain’t flashy, but it’s everything you think a proper burger should be. Neither sleek nor subtle, The Grizz is a bonafide, badass hunger crusher.

— Toby Sells

LBOE, 2021 Madison, 725-0770

Second Line

The Cheeseburger at Second Line

Anyone ordering a burger at The Second Line by Kelly English should already know it will be out of the ordinary. For one thing, it’s not a burger joint, but one of the city’s best purveyors of New Orleans cuisine. For another, it’s run by a chef who’s been celebrated by Food & Wine magazine. Finally, the menu notes that this burger is served “Cooter Brown style.”

“It’s named after Cooter Brown’s Bar in New Orleans,” Second Line team member Christopher Williams tells me. “It’s an homage to their burger. So it’s got beef patties set side by side on our po’ boy bread, a little Creole seasoning, salt, pepper, American cheese, lettuce, tomato, pickle, and mayonaisse.”

But there’s an echo of a Memphis mainstay in this burger as well. “It has to meet the standard of the Tops cheeseburger,” Williams says. “Kelly was once asked, if he was gonna leave something for Santa Claus, what would it be? And he said a Tops cheeseburger.”

Indeed, this gem of a burger captures much of that no-nonsense goodness, which, it turns out, perfectly complements the earthy po’ boy qualities of its Crescent City references. With a side of Second Line’s epic battered onion rings, it makes for a wholly unique burger epiphany.

— Alex Greene

Second Line, 2144 Monroe, 590-2829

Categories
Cover Feature News

Crosstown Concourse: The Vertical Village Comes to Life

Saturday will be a crazy Memphis moment. At least, that’s how Todd Richardson sees it.

Richardson is a co-founder of Crosstown Arts, the group that spurred the redevelopment of the massive, empty Sears Crosstown building.

Since 2010, Richardson’s mind has been focused on recruiting partners, signing tenants, finding funding, construction schedules, paperwork, designs, plans, and meetings, meetings, meetings. But at its core, Richardson still calls Crosstown a “miracle.”

“Yeah, at the end of the day, what a crazy Memphis moment?” Richardson says with a laugh. “It was the middle of the recession, and it couldn’t be done. It’s a completely unique redevelopment; there’s not another one like these in the country. So, we’re really celebrating the tenacity of the city for this miracle to happen. To me, that’s what August 19th is all about.”

Saturday is the Crosstown Concourse Opening Celebration, a moment eight years (or, nearly 90) in the making. The celebration starts at 3 p.m. with a dedication ceremony in the Central Atrium. The day continues with tenant open houses, live music, and a screening of a feature-length documentary about the Crosstown project.

Much of the building is already alive with residential and commercial tenants. But loose ends will be tied up as the year goes on — more apartments will be filled, programs will be started, and office workers will soon move into now-empty floors.

At full tilt, nearly 3,000 people will come and go there each day, according to Crosstown officials. That impact (economic and otherwise) will hit the area like an “atom bomb,” at least, in the words of a city official years ago. That energy will flow from a long-neglected “big empty” and revitalize a neighborhood that’s already feeling positive effects, with the potential for transforming a whole section of the city.

The (Way) Backstory

Company men from Sears, Roebuck & Co. quietly arrived in Memphis in the late 1920s, seeking sites for a retail center and catalog order plant. They knew if local property owners thought Sears was interested in their property, their prices would skyrocket. So, the Sears officials drove around town, pointing to sites from their car windows, while, behind them, real estate brokers followed in another car and took notes.

The company eventually settled on Crosstown, a then-suburban neighborhood about two miles from downtown. One hundred and eighty days after construction began, on August 27, 1927, Memphis Mayor Rowlett Paine cut the ribbon on a 640,000 square-foot facility that would employ more than 1,000 people.

That first day, almost 30,000 shoppers came to visit the 53,000-square-foot retail center. At its peak, nearly 45,000 catalog orders left Sears Crosstown each day.

The building also had a small hospital, cafeteria, ladies recreation area, administrative offices, a credit union, board rooms, and “The Cypress Room,” for executive dining.

Forty years later, Crosstown had grown to a mammoth 1.5 million square feet on 19 acres. Unfortunately, like the original mammoth, it had become outdated. Shoppers had headed east and elsewhere. Sears closed the Crosstown retail store in 1983.

The site remained a regional distribution center for Sears. But less than 30 years later, due to the decline in the company’s mail-order business, Sears closed many of its warehouses across the country, including Crosstown. The building was left vacant in 1993 and remained an iconic emtpy tower for more than 20 years.

The (Recent) Backstory

Richardson can tell the story of Crosstown’s recent history in about a minute. He’s an art historian, a professor at the University of Memphis, but he knew the Crosstown property owner. Richardson asked about the building, and that started a “wouldn’t-it-be-cool conversation,” he says, which hasn’t stopped.

“The biggest challenge we had was to get people to see beyond what they see,” Richardson says. “This was a building the size of the Empire State Building that had been empty for 20 years in Memphis. It was in the middle of the recession, so, where do you start and could [anything] ever happen?”

Richardson and Christopher Miner formed Crosstown Arts in 2010 as a nonprofit arts organization that would serve as the building’s developer and would one day also be building tenant.

Two years later, the two had commitments from eight local tenants willing to lease a total of 600,000 square feet, nearly half of the building. By the time Crosstown officials asked the Memphis City Council for $15 million (the project’s final piece of funding) a year later, the building’s tenants included Church Health, Methodist Healthcare, Gestalt Community Schools, St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital, ALSAC, Memphis Teacher Residency, Rhodes College, and, of course, Crosstown Arts.

So, What Is It?

The Crosstown website now calls its facility a “vertical urban village,” and some variation of that term has been used to describe it from the beginning. The website also tries to invoke Crosstown’s spirit by calling it “a local heart for the cultivation of well-being, shifting focus from products to people, from commodity to quality of life,” adding that Crosstown will build “on three of Memphis’ strongest community assets — arts, education, and health care. Concourse is now a mixed-use vertical urban village with a purposeful collective of uses and partners.”

So, what’s in the village?

The building will include Crosstown Arts, Crosstown High School, and numerous health-care agencies. It’ll also be home to the Curb Market grocery store, numerous restaurants, a pharmacy, a nail shop, a FedEx Office store, apartments, and more. To anyone in commercial real estate, it looks like a classic mixed-use development, a mix of residential, commercial, and retail spaces. Many of the tenants, including Curb Market, FedEx, Farm Burger, Mama Gaia’s, and others, are already doing business in Crosstown.

But Richardson says it’s more than that and that it “can’t be managed like any other building in Memphis.” He said the building and the tenants who fill it have a deliberate tone, personality, and a spirit of inclusivity. They all “are intimately related, interconnected, and interdependent and, as a result, better because they are together.”

The building was designed for tenant interaction. Those tenants who have have chosen to locate in Crosstown did so because their individual missions will be lifted through those interactions, a Crosstown official says. All of the tenants, whether in arts, education, food, or health care, intersect at wellness, an idea that Ginger Spickler, Crosstown’s director of strategic partnerships and projects, said serves as an overall ethos for Crosstown Concourse.

“We’ve all been to office parks, where you’ve got lots of people in different buildings, none of whom interact with each other,” Spickler says on a recent tour. “So we knew even if we put people in this building, they would not necessarily interact unless we create spaces and experience for them to share together.”

So, Spickler says, the design of the building deliberately includes common spaces — a small open theater, large balconies, a massive central atrium — “where those unexpected connections and intersections can happen.”

That’s precisely why Gary Shorb, the new executive director of the Urban Child Institute, says he wanted to move his organization there, noting they’ll “be right next door to Pyramid Peak Foundation and the Poplar Foundation.”

“Geography always helps with collaboration,” Shorb says. “The closer you are, the better it will be.”

Crosstown Now

Bowties and sport coats mingled easily with hard hats and work boots during an early afternoon last month. The smells of electrical work pierced the aroma of roasting vegetables close to Curb Market. The mid-tempo thump of chilled-out EDM at Mama Gaia was often overcome by the scraping whine of power tools. It was easy to see how far the building had come — and that it still had a little way to go. Richardson says the building is mostly full: About 98 percent of the office space is leased. The apartments are around 80 percent occupied. Retail spaces were about 60 percent leased. The next step will be getting everyone moved in.

Curb Market

The celebration will be gratifying, Richardson says, but Crosstown Concourse’s true success won’t be realized Saturday.

“Success for us will be five or 10 years down the road,” he says, “when people are still here and enjoying it, and Crosstown is still the vibrant vertical village we all hoped and dreamed it would be.”

A Closer Look

Some of the tenants that will be based in Crosstown Concourse

Church Health

One of the founding tenants of Crosstown, Church Health spans 150,000 square feet over three floors in the building’s West Atrium. According to its mission, Church Health strives to provide affordable health care to Memphis’ working, uninsured population and their families. It’s served some 70,000 people since its inception in 1987.

But after the move to Crosstown, for the first time in those 30 years, all of Church Health’s services are in the same building. At its former location, 120,000 square feet of clinics, exam rooms, and offices were spread over 13 buildings on Peabody, Bellevue, and Union, says communications director for Church Health, Marvin Stockwell.

Church Health

The move to a space 30,000 square feet larger, yet still all under one roof, he says, will enable the center to “serve more people and serve them better.”

Stockwell says Church Health now has 62 medical rooms, compared to 34 in its previous locations. This increase, as well as more than twice the number of dental, eye, and counseling rooms, Stockwell says will vastly increase the amount of patients Church Health is able to treat.

In step with Crosstown’s “better together” vision of cross-organizational collaboration, Stockwell says the move has already paved the way for partnerships with other organizations, like the YMCA. Together they formed the Church Health YMCA for Church Health patients and others in the community to utilize.

He says when leadership from both organizations discussed their programming and missions, much of it overlapped, like fitness and “creative movement” classes, such as Zumba, yoga, and pilates. “The organization has grown because of partnerships now that we’re tucked into an urban village,” Stockwell says.

Church Health CEO Scott Morris says partnerships with more tenants such as Southern College of Optometry, Teach for America, Crosstown Arts, and others are also in the works. All of the partnerships, Morris says, will help Church Health be more effective at caring for its patients, adding, “We truly are better together for all of Memphis.”

Morris says the move has also made it possible for expansions into “new, vibrant areas such as culinary medicine — or food as medicine,” which he says will enrich Church Health’s overall work.

Church Health’s new teaching kitchen, located on the first floor, is more than twice the size of the former kitchen, says Stockwell. A larger, new, modern kitchen allows Church Health to offer coursework for a culinary medicine certificate from Tulane University, as well as community nutrition and cooking classes on how to prepare healthy food.

A notable part of the new kitchen is the commercial section, where Stockwell says Church Health is ramping up its own bread line, Whole Heart Bread.

He says after speaking with some local restaurant owners around the city, Church Health staff realized there was a need for locally-sourced bread in Memphis.

Stockwell says the bread line will be a way for the kitchen to do mission-type work while bringing in revenue to fund Church Health’s efforts to serve the community.

Another goal for the kitchen is to eventually partner with Memphis Tilth, which plans to hire someone to manage the kitchen full-time, and work with local food entrepreneurs who need access to commercial equipment.

Other spaces of Church Health’s operation include a chapel, community meeting room, child-care center, and “control room,” which will eventually be a broadcast workspace, producing health- and faith-related podcasts, Stockwell says.

The Parcels at Concourse

Creating something new from something old — that’s how Laura Anna Hatchett, senior community manager for LEDIC, describes the process of the realty company’s newest project: The Parcels at Concourse.

The Parcels are comprised of 265 apartments on floors seven through 10 at Crosstown. The unique interior of the building and the infrastructure of those top floors — once a Sears warehouse — shaped how the Parcels were designed, says Hatchett.

In order to fit 265 units on the top four floors of the building, 38 unit layouts were created, which are available in studio and one-, two-, and three-bedroom apartments.

Hatchett says the renovation focused on “maintaining the integrity of what the building used to be” by keeping the historical elements intact, such as the exposed brick walls and wood floors.

The Parcels

“Better together,” the idea behind Crosstown, inspired the various gathering spaces and community seating areas throughout the Parcels, including the leasing office itself, which protrudes from the seventh floor of the central atrium and will serve as a “living room” for residents, Hatchett says.

Another design element meant to foster community building, she says, are the indoor front porches that several of the units have and that residents are able to personalize.

“It’s a true live, work, play environment,” Hatchett says. “Residents can participate in numerous activities that are only an elevator ride away.”

The apartments — between 1,000 and 1,100 square feet per unit, run about $1.40 a square foot per month. Hatchett says an affordable housing grant allows 20 percent of the units to be rented at affordable market rate.

Of the 265 units, about 103 will house Memphis Teacher Residency residents, families of St. Jude patients, along with scientists working at the hospital, Church Health Scholars, Crosstown Arts residents, and Iris Orchestra Artist fellows. Residents began moving into the units in January and, as of press time, the Parcels were 82 percent occupied.

Madison Pharmacy

Though Madison Pharmacy’s old location is less than two miles down the road from its new home at Crosstown, owner Rende Bechtel says, and the biggest challenge in relocating is the logistics of moving and setting up the new space.

“It’s very scary,” Bechtel says, “But it’s a risk that could lead to a lot of opportunities.”

The privately owned pharmacy has stood on Madison near Auburndale for about 13 years, and Bechtel says they were happy there. But when she heard that Crosstown was looking for a resident pharmacy, it was an opportunity she couldn’t pass up.

“It was like fate,” she says, explaining that her parents both worked in the old Sears Tower and that that was where they first met.

Bechtel, who’s owned the pharmacy since 2012, says they have about 300 regular customers now and after the move are hoping to expand by taking advantage of the other health-care services housed in Crosstown, perhaps partnering with Church Health to serve some of its patients.

Madison Pharmacy

“Once we get there, I’m sure we’ll be right at home,” Bechtel says.

The new pharmacy will not only be larger than the old one, it will also become a convenience store, offering an expanded dollar section, essential oils, dog food, household products, makeup, and “a little bit of everything you might need.”

The hope, Bechtel says, is that “people who live and work here will come in on a regular basis and we’ll get to know them, while providing them with what they need.”

Area 51 Ice Cream

Area 51 Ice Cream, a family-owned ice cream shop out of Hernando, Mississippi, will make Crosstown its second location.

Karin Cubbage, who owns Area 51 Ice Cream with her husband, says they have been looking for a second location in Memphis for a while now, but no location seemed just right — until they saw the Crosstown space. She says they knew immediately that Crosstown was a good fit for the company and it was a project they wanted to be a part of.

Area 51 has been serving homemade ice cream along with fresh-baked goods at its location in Hernando for about three years. Cubbage says their foods are made with no artificial flavors — only fresh, locally-sourced ingredients.

“We try to do as much by hand as we can,” Cubbage says. “We even hand-make the chocolate chips that go into our mint chip ice cream.” Cubbage says she and her husband have good relationships with local farmers, like those at Cedar Health Farms, where they often buy seasonal berries.

Like its mother shop, the new location at Crosstown, will offer 12 ice cream flavors, as well as a specialty cookie and brownie each day. Since the new space is significantly smaller than the shop in Hernando, Cubbage says the ice cream will be made daily in Mississippi and transported to Crosstown.

After wrapping up the finishing touches on the new shop, including installing sidewalk-style cafe tables, Cubbage says the Crosstown location will open in late August. “We’re excited about exposing our product to another part of town that we haven’t been able to reach yet … and to be a part of the larger project in general.”

Crosstown High School

Around this time next year, 125 ninth-graders will walk through the doors of Crosstown as the inaugural class of Crosstown High School.

Ultimately, it’s expected that 500 students will comprise the student body at the public charter school. Those students, who will be chosen through a lottery, will be part of a learning experience that’s never been tried in Memphis. Instead of a teacher lecturing in front of a class, students will learn with hands-on projects based on student interest or on challenges issued by other tenants inside the Concourse.

Church Health, for example, may ask the students to help them design a wellness campaign for senior citizens in the Klondike neighborhood, says Spickler. “The students might then accomplish some of their math or English standards through creating different signage or something else by actually solving a community-based challenge.”

Students’ interests, talents, and learning pace will be taken into consideration at Crosstown High, and each student will have a personal learning plan.

Spickler says the school plans to have a diverse student body by reaching out to the community to recruit students to the school’s entrance lottery in hopes of making a school “that looks like Memphis.”

All of this will be fueled with a $2.5 million grant from XQ: The Super School Project, an initiative that challenged education officials to rethink the high school model.

For Crosstown’s model, school personnel talked with students, parents, teachers, and employers. Much of the school’s model is based on the design challenge, which Crosstown High began in November 2015.