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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Flew the Coop

In addition to being in a new location, Uncle Lou’s Fried Chicken will be in a new episode of Guy Fieri’s Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives on the Food Network.

His restaurant is now at 1725 Winchester Road, which is “one-fourth of a mile” from his old restaurant at 3633 Millbranch Road, says owner/founder Lou Martin. “A six-minute walk or a two-minute drive.” 

And the episode, titled “Sweet, Spicy and Savory,” will air at 7 p.m. on April 25th.

Martin’s new building was formerly a Wendy’s location. He wanted the building for years. “They came down to my asking price, which I thought was great.”

He didn’t have to do a lot to the building, but he did a lot anyway, Martin says. “My plan is to set it up as a model. Get more of them. Get people interested in opening Lou’s around the city, around the country. That’s the plan. That’s why we went so in depth. To make it a franchise-able model.”

Asked about the interior’s color scheme, Martin says, “My wife [Renee Martin] is in charge of colors. I’m in charge of the bills.”

One area of the restaurant, known as Daphne’s Area, is in pink because of his daughter Daphne Martin, who died in June 2024. “It’s an honor to her, her legacy. Everything is pink. That was her color.”

Martin has white table tops in honor of his mother Mary Martin, who died 10 years ago. “She had that dream a few times that I had a restaurant with white tablecloths. And I told her, ‘Mom,’ — we kind of joked about it — ‘I might have a white table top one day.’’’

The chair cushions are green. “My mom’s favorite color was green.”

The new restaurant is 2,700 square feet, as opposed to his old place, which was 1,800 square feet. Martin now has more space for shipping his Uncle Lou’s products, which include his sauces, seasonings, and chicken breading mix.

The new restaurant, of course, continues to offer Martin’s chicken breasts, thighs, legs, and his award-winning marinated chicken tenderloins slathered with his signature Sweet Spicy Love sauce, as well as hamburgers and other items. 

Martin came up with the sauce, but the fried chicken recipe came from his great-grandmother Rosie Gillespie. In a Memphis Magazine story, Martin said he was about 15 when his mother told him the secret to Madear’s fried chicken. And she told him again when he decided to sell chicken at his new restaurant.

New Uncle Lou’s side items include homemade macaroni-and-cheese. “We start with elbow macaroni noodles. Cook those. After those are cooked, we add our cheddar cheese sauce. And after that we add some black pepper, some Corruption — my own personal seasoning — and a little bit of honey. Cup it up and sprinkle shredded cheese on it. A five-cheese blend.”

Corruption is “an all-purpose seasoning. Kind of like Lawry’s or Season-All, but much more flavor and less salt.”

The seasoning dates to Martin’s days when he owned Turkey Express, a turkey leg booth he set up at the Mid-South Fair and at Memphis in May events. Daphne, who was about 10 years old at the time, helped him make Corruption, he says. “Probably 30 plus years ago.”

Daphne continued to help him over the years. “She was my right hand, but she was left-handed.” 

Martin talked about Corruption when he was on his first Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives show with Fieri in 2008. Asked on the show why he called it Corruption, Martin said, “Once you taste it, you’ve been corrupted.”

Corruption also is in Sweet Spicy Love Beans, another new side item.“It’s a Northern bean with a Southern kick.”

Martin says, “People swear up and down it has meat, but it doesn’t have meat. Just seasoning, seasoned green beans, and we add diced potatoes and Corruption.” 

That’s another nod to his mother, who made green beans with diced potatoes for their Sunday dinners when Martin was growing up. She made Sunday dinner on Saturday. So, on Sunday she’d put the already-cooked beans and potatoes on the floor heater before the family went to church. The slow heat marinated the dish. All his mom had to do when they came home from church was “fry chicken or warm up the roast or whatever we were having that day.”

Martin recalls the aroma from those beans and potatoes after church. “Talking about smell — oh, my goodness.”

Born and raised in Memphis, Martin opened his first restaurant, Catfish Express, where he sold farm-raised catfish, in 1988.

He then went into the concession business with his Turkey Express booth. He also owned the short-lived Turkey Express restaurant in Downtown Memphis.

In 2001, Martin opened what later became Uncle Lou’s Fried Chicken. He originally sold hamburgers and sandwiches before he added the fried chicken made from his great-grandmother’s recipe. 

Mary enhanced the fried chicken with his Sweet Spicy Love sauce, which is made with honey, red wine vinegar, Louisiana hot sauce, and Corruption. He originally called the sauce Honey Dip, but during a Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives appearance, Fieri told him he should call it Sweet Spicy Love.

Martin has been on Fieri’s show four times, including the upcoming episode. As he said in the Memphis Magazine story, business picked up “immediately” after the first show in 2008. “It didn’t stop,” Martin said. “And it hasn’t stopped.”

Business is booming at his new location, Martin says. And, for the first time in his career, he owns a restaurant with a patio. “I’ve got a patio that’s out of this world. I want to say 35 by 40. It’s enough to have six six-foot tables.”

The patio is intended for families who want to let their kids move around and “stretch their legs.”

The centerpiece in the restaurant’s landscaping is a “long stem pink” rose bush, which belonged to his mother. “My niece was a baby when she planted that thing, so I know it’s 40-plus. I’m saying 43.”

Martin had the rosebush transplanted to the restaurant. “It’s flourishing down here.”

Hydrangea bushes and various flowers also are included in the restaurant’s landscaping. “I like color. I like low maintenance and something that comes back every year. Some yellows. Some oranges. Some purples. And the flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds.

“If you’re sitting out there on the patio and you’ve got butterflies, hummingbirds, good music, and a good day, what else could you need besides good-flavored chicken?” 

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Chocolatier Phillip Ashley Rix To Appear on Food Network

Phillip Ashley Chocolates / Facebook

Memphis chocolatier Phillip Ashley Rix of Phillip Ashley Chocolates will appear on the Food Network tonight.

Rix will appear on a new show called Chopped Sweets, which is a dessert-themed spinoff of the show Chopped. This is Rix’s first time competing on a television show, but it’s the third time in the past year that a Memphis chef has appeared on a national cooking show.

Erling Jensen’s chef de cuisine Keith Clinton appeared on Guy’s Grocery Games last year, and Chef Tamra Patterson of Chef Tam’s Underground Cafe appeared on Guy’s Grocery Games for the third time last week on February 5th.

On Monday’s episode of Chopped Sweets, titled “Chocolate Perfection,” Rix will compete with three other chefs to “make every chocolate lover’s dream come true by whipping up decadent, chocolatey creations that are as beautiful as they are craveable.”

The episode will air at 9 p.m. tonight (Monday, February 10th) on Food Network.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Q&A with Ben Fink

New York-based photographer Ben Fink was born in Baltimore but describes himself as a “young transplant” to Memphis. He went to junior high and high school in the area; he attended the Memphis College of Art and the University of Memphis, where he studied painting and graphic design. Fink began taking pictures of food in Memphis, and has since had an impressive career working with some of the biggest names in food, including Bobby Flay, Ina Garten, Jacques Pépin, and the Lee Brothers. He has prominent corporate clients as well and has shot the cookbooks for celebrities Eva Longoria, Trisha Yearwood, and Teresa Giudice. Fink’s latest editorial project brought him back to the area. Mississippi Current: A Culinary Journey Down America’s Greatest River is by Regina Charboneau, the culinary director of the American Queen, and the cookbook spans the length of the Mississippi, from its source in Minnesota to the Gulf Coast.

Flyer: How did you go from painting and graphic design to photography?

Ben Fink: I studied painting and graphic design, and then, you know, I had to work. A friend of mine [asked], “Do you want to take over my job as an assistant photographer for Jack Kenner?” I said, “Oh, sure!” That’s where I got my love for photography. I worked for him for about a year, and then started doing my own thing.

You got into food photography fairly early in your career. How did that come about?

It was with Mary Ann Eagle. Mary Ann started doing a monthly column in Memphis magazine, and she and I teamed up to do that column. Then I started doing the top-100 and the best restaurants, so I did all the restaurant stuff for Memphis magazine.

This was the early ’90s. We said, “Why don’t we try querying these big magazines?” The first one we queried, we were like, Let’s just go for the best, the one that we dream to work with, and that was Saveur. They bought the first article that we queried.

How did you get from Memphis to New York?

After getting hooked up with Saveur, they started having me travel the world. Then I started working with other magazines.

I was working a lot in New York and Europe and California. I traveled a lot from Memphis, which seemed like such a fluke. Then I was like “Okay, I’ve got to make that leap.” I was so scared of failure.

I never skipped a beat. I was so lucky. Then suddenly in 2000, it skyrocketed. It never stopped.

Do you think the 2000 boom coincided with Food Network?

Yes. I started with those people. I got connected pretty early. I did Rachael Ray’s first four books. From there, I worked with Bobby Flay. I just completed my fifth or sixth book with him. I just started doing a lot of Food Network people — Ted Allen, Anne Burrell …

Then I started working with major corporations. The last couple of days, I’ve been working with Burger King. I’ve worked with Hellmann’s, Nestle, and Kraft.

Are you known for a certain look, or do you go in and say, “Let’s do this together?” Does it depend on the client?

Ben Fink

Samples of Ben Fink’s work

Ben Fink

I do have a certain look that always comes out, and it’s probably very approachable. Ultimately, my love of whatever I’m doing comes through. But, that being said, the projects that I’m working on are not all about me. They’re about the people I’m working with. There are always conversations before we ever start. My approach is I sit down with people, and I say, “What do you see coming out of this?” And, I usually get, “I don’t know. What do you see?” I say, “No, what I want to hear is your story.”

Whether they realize it or not, they do have ideas on how they see things. My job is to pull that out. Do they see this rustic-looking? Do they see it slick and refined? Do they see it dark and moody? Do they see this light and airy?

There’s plenty that can go wrong with cooking. I’m sure you’ve encountered mishaps.

Mistakes are sometimes our friend. Funny things happen, and if we can capitalize on those, that’s great. A subject who admits their mistakes and takes and embraces them, it makes them more real. But if it’s a horrible mistake? Start over. Just don’t get caught up in it personally.

Any moments that were very difficult? Something you thought would be easy but didn’t turn out like you expected?

Something that didn’t turn out as expected … There’s a really good, motto … I may not say this right, but the gist of it is: Career-wise, look up to people you admire, push toward that, and surpass it until that person you admire becomes your competitor.

That’s intense!

That doesn’t always happen. There are so many people I admire. I’m in awe of people — there are many, many talented people, and some get overlooked.  

And, I’m in awe of all I have achieved. If I could say anything, I’m in awe of my career. Who would have known that a little guy from Frayser would be shooting and working with some of the top people in the food world? I’m blown away by it, and I live with myself and think, “Some day everybody’s going wake up and figure out who I really am. That I fooled everybody.”

Let’s talk specifically about shooting food. Do you have certain tricks you use, or is it, What’s on the plate is what’s on the plate?

When I shoot for editorial books, we cook it, we set it down on a plate or platter, I find the angle. I shoot it as a whole platter, then I put a fork in it and shoot that, and then I take a bite of it. And then I shoot that, so it looks natural. If you can have it made, shot, and eat it, and it’s still good, then you probably have a good shot.

You’ve been around food constantly. Do you know everything?

Do I know everything? I do cook. My husband is a better cook than I am. But, I’m around many great cooks. I shot books for almost 12 years for the Culinary Institute of America. I probably shot 30 or 40 books for them, so I feel like I went to school for 10 or 12 years. I learned a tremendous amount of just basic knife skills, cooking skills. I shot three professional How to Cook Everything books.

Let’s talk about the Mississippi Currents book. How did that work? Did you get on the boat to shoot this project?

I did three days on the boat with Regina, but we did it mostly in her house at Natchez. I love shooting cookbooks. That’s my roots, and I hadn’t been down South in a while. So, we talked on the phone, and we had a mutual admiration. I went down. My husband helped style the book. With Regina, we all styled and shot it together.

What was it like being on the boat?

I wanted to figure out how to stay for a week. It was really relaxing. Sort of a throwback — so slow and kind of a nice experience.

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Opinion

Weekend Report: Barbecue Makeover, Big East, Big Bluff

Best line of the week: “It was a bluff they hoped would be called,” by Jackson Baker, on the annexation moves and counter-moves by Sen. Mark Norris and the Memphis City Council.

A picture worth a thousand words: Memphis Tigers in Times Square, as noted by my colleague Frank Murtaugh, who got this comment from Big East associate commissioner John Paquette on how it happened: “This is a terrific benefit of a deal we have with American Eagle Outfitters. The sign is at their Times Square store. AEG is the presenting sponsor of our men’s and women’s basketball tournaments. They also sponsor our academic awards. We also are able to use it for acknowledging conference champions after we conduct one of our championships. We welcomed our other new members in a similar way.”

The Food Network is coming to Memphis next week to Pollards Bar-B-Q in Whitehaven. Robert Irvine, the muscular take-charge host of “Restaurant: Impossible” will bring in his crew to do a makeover of the restaurant at 4560 Elvis Presley Boulevard, about a mile south of Graceland. The gimmick is that the crew spends $10,000 on design and Irvine whips the staff into shape. I had lunch there Friday with Memphis City Councilman Harold Collins, who represents Whitehaven. “No worse than an 8” on a scale of 1 to 10, was our evaluation of the food and the premises. Our sandwiches were so so big we had to eat them with a fork, the meat was lean, the fries crisp, the beans not bad, the vinyl booths clean. There were only a couple of other customers, however, and the orange/mustard colored cinder block interior decor needs work, but this one looks like a lay down for Irvine and company. Tenesia Pollard, who was at the counter, said the show contacted her two days after she contacted them. Filming is next week, with the show scheduled to air in May.

It’s always something at Liberty Bowl Memorial Stadium. With the Big East news came the predictable cry for public funds to fix the turf, press box (cry me a river), big-screen, and they’ll think of something else. If there was ever a case for user fees, this is it. College football is a big-bucks goldmine, even for lower tier bowls, as I have reported. Let them pay to play. And put on a ticket surcharge. Attendance can’t get much worse than it has been for the last two or three years, so there is huge upside when Memphis joins the Big East and upgrades its schedule in 2013. As for the media, give ’em a Pollards barbecue sandwich and a free beer. Works for me.

The Racquet Club is installing the Hawk-Eye System for the Regions Morgan Keegan Championships February 17-26. The system lets players challenge calls and fans see how close the ball was to the line. Tournament Director Peter Lebedevs said it will be used on all main-draw matches on the Stadium Court.

Attorney Webb Brewer said the mortgage settlement between 49 states and big lenders does not put an end to the city of Memphis lawsuit against Wells Fargo. tn incl. “It is not identical to the issues in our lawsuit,” he said. “Ours had more to do with the making of the loans and discrimination targeting minorities for bad loans, which resulted in foreclosures.” The federal lawsuit, he said, survived a motion to dismiss and is in the discovery phase.