Categories
Food & Drink

The Return of Front St. Deli

Front St. Deli will reopen at its old 77 South Front address by the end of January.

“We are doing the final touches with Ken [Hooper], the culinary brains, over there this week,” says Tony Westmoreland, who runs Tandem Restaurant Group with his wife Stephanie. The group operates other restaurants, including Carolina Watershed, Sidecar Cafe Memphis, and Ben Yay’s.

In addition to being the “culinary brains,” chef Hooper also is a managing partner at Front St. Deli. “If all goes well, he might be the new owner,” Westmoreland says.

The delicatessen, which originally opened in 1976, closed in 2020.

The building, which dates to 1853, “looks a little bit different,” he says. “We did facade renovation. Took off the whole front of the building. It’s an all-glass front now.”

The Deli exterior at the corner of Front and Union. (Photo: Michael Donahue)

They’re considering adding two garage doors to the front so they can roll them up and people can eat outside in the warmer months.

“We had to make some changes,” Westmoreland adds. “The inside has changed up a little. Mostly cosmetic.”

Changes were made to the “footprint layout,” he says. “We wanted to put in some more equipment for the variety of food we want to prepare.”

The restaurant will be “grab and go,” says Westmoreland. “With the limitations on the space, it’s a pretty much similar menu. But I think he [Hooper] wants to keep a few things from the previous menu for historic value.”

Emphasis won’t be placed on Tom Cruise and the 1993 movie, The Firm, part of which was filmed at Front St. Deli. “We’re not going to play The Firm movie over and over again, and have all the pictures of Tom Cruise.”

They’re going to play up the historic value of the building and make it “more Memphis than ‘Tom Cruise filmed a movie there.’ And that building is really old.”

The color scheme will be red, black, and white. Most of the equipment has been replaced. “We did put in a new countertop and a wall to block off the kitchen part. It’s still a half wall.”

They don’t want to make too many changes because, like their other properties, including the legendary Zinnie’s, they want to play into the “nostalgia” of “the past historical influence of some of these places.”

As for the food, expect a mix of some of the old with the new. “For instance, in the previous incarnation they had a pimento cheese and bacon sandwich,” Hooper says. “We want to bring that over. That was really iconic. The counterpoint is Cubano Memphis. It’s honey ham and pickles and Swiss cheese and — it’s supposed to be Cuban roast pork — but pulled pork on top. Just to make it fit in.We’re going to make it a Memphis thing.”

Hooper also will feature “cast iron pizzas,” including one consisting of smoked turkey, smoked pork, and smoked sausage. “Memphis is just a smoked-up town.”

Other items include the Jack & Lui — a sandwich made of house-smoked turkey and paprika mayonnaise on tomato bread.

Josh Steiner of Hive Bagel & Deli is “going to be making most of our breads, which I’m really excited about.  A white baguette. A caraway dark rye, which I don’t know if you can get it anywhere else. Just gorgeous bread.”

The menu item names won’t refer to The Firm, Hooper says. The restaurant previously was “a shrine to Tom Cruise. People can like what they like, but we’re not going to emphasize that.”

Instead, they’re going to emphasize Memphis. “The sandwiches are going to be named for famous riverboats: Memphis Queen, Julia Belle Swain, and Belle of Louisville.”

Born in Spokane, Washington, Hooper moved to Memphis in 1976 — the same year Front St. Deli opened. He owned food trucks, ran food service at Levitt Shell (now the Overton Park Shell) for two years, and he was the executive chef at Growlers.

He’s excited to work at Front St. Deli, a place that has “very deep name recognition in Memphis.”

“You couldn’t spend that much money to get that hype with that name recognition. And we get to just walk right in.”

Hooper believes Front St. Deli has “got name recognition almost with Pete & Sam’s and Arcade and the Rendezvous. It’s got that deep history.”

And, Hooper says, “It’s a grande dame. A Memphis institution. We understand that. And we’re going to take good care of it.”

In addition to re-opening Front St. Deli, Tandem Restaurant Group also is in the process of opening two Uncle Red’s restaurant locations —  2583 Broad Avenue and 786 Echles Street, Westmoreland says. The restaurants will feature Christopher “FreeSol” Anderson’s turkey legs. “We shut Watershed down for the winter and we’re going to focus on getting Broad Avenue open directly after Front St. Deli,” Westmoreland says. “We hope to have that one open in February and Echles, hopefully, in March.” 

Categories
Hungry Memphis

Front St. Deli Slated to Reopen by November

The Tandem Restaurant Partners — Tony and Stephanie Westmoreland in collaboration with Ryan Marsh — are the new owners of Front St. Deli, the iconic restaurant at 77 South Front and Union.

 The eatery, which was featured in the 1993 film, The Firm, is slated to re-open by November.  “Hopefully, in three months we’ll get her back open if not sooner,” Westmoreland says.

Tandem Restaurant Partners operates several Memphis restaurants, including Carolina Watershed, Side Car Cafe, and Ben Yay’s. “You’ll see us partnering with other restaurateurs to open up new concepts.”

Marsh, Westmoreland adds, will be involved with “what we do as a whole and getting this [Front St. Deli] up and going for us.”

Marsh, 31, the newest member of Tandem Partners, moved from Pennsylvania to Memphis when he was 14. He previously was operations manager for MOXY Memphis Downtown hotel across from Court Square.

Why did he want to get involved with Front St. Deli? “It’s the oldest deli in Memphis — over 45 years old,” he says.

And, he adds, “I’m a big fan of Memphis, a big believer in Downtown and the history we have down here.”

It’s important for him to help bring the Front St. Deli project to life and “bring it back to its former glories.”

Tom Cruise plays Harvard educated tax lawyer Mitch McDeere in the movie, which was filmed  in Memphis. All  the sandwiches were named after Cruise movies.

Those sandwiches will remain, Marsh says. “Tony and I put our heads together,” Marsh says. “Number one, I want to keep the Deli as close to what it was before. And Tony had a great idea to include some hot food, too. And we want to start bringing in gourmet hot dogs.”

Marsh also has a side goal: “I would like to bring authentic Philly cheesesteaks as well, But that’s still in limbo.”

And maybe open later using “third party delivery service like Uber for sandwiches and hot dogs for the Downtown community,” 

And, Westmoreland says, “We have all the recipes. All the intellectual property came with the business.”

They will be “tweaking the menu, perfecting it, and making sure what we’re doing makes sense,” Marsh says. “The way the menu was structured before, it was all over the place. We want to simplify everything and eventually turn it over to where we’ll have a few cooks and I’ll be heading the day-to-day.”

Look for more room at Front St. Deli. “We’ll be going through negotiations over the next two and a half months to do an update,” Westmoreland says. “Not only update the building itself, but the outside facade.”

They’re working with the building owner to add two garage doors in front.  “So, you can open up Front St. Deli  to the public on the street side and enjoy Front Street not just from the inside, but outside as well,” Westmoreland says. “We’ll be reorganizing the inside to facilitate more people so you’ll have more seating. The goal is to have 10 to 15 people fit inside as well as outside.”

They want to “keep it as authentic as possible. Not change much. Keep the history of it. Keep it as close to the original as possible with just size changes and some rearrangement to get the capacity as full as we can.”

Front St. Deli “falls in tandem” with some of the other properties they have partnered with, including Hernando’s Hide-a-way, “one of the oldest music venues,” and Growlers, “being one of the nostalgic music venues in Memphis,” Westmoreland says. “Trying to preserve that nostalgia. And I think Front St. Deli is the same motive. Trying to keep Memphis the Memphis we remember growing up.”

Front St. Deli (Credit: Eric Bourgeois)
Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Lunch Break

Twenty years ago, Tom Cruise sat in the window of the Front Street Deli as Mitch McDeere, plotting his escape from Memphis in the hit film The Firm. Today, Lance Silkes stands behind the counter as the new owner of the deli, recounting his decision to save this Memphis institution from slipping away.

“I knew about the history of the deli and recognized that in a lot of ways this was one of the first restaurants to come back to downtown after the exodus,” Silkes said. “After reading a little more about the situation, I realized it was really threatened with extinction.”

This “situation” was the passing earlier this year of Lee Busby, Front Street Deli’s owner and operator for 37 years and a fixture of the downtown lunch scene. Coupled with the need for repairs and updates to the restaurant space, Busby’s passing seemed to signal the end of the deli altogether. But Silkes, who runs Tastin’ Round Town culinary tours, was determined to keep this quirky, 350-square-foot eatery in business. “It’s an odd little store,” Silkes said. “It really took someone with experience working in a nontraditional kitchen space. I refer to this thing as a food truck without wheels.”

From his tiny kitchen, Silkes is cranking out many of the same menu items Busby did. “The idea is, if someone hadn’t been here in 10 years, they’d walk in and recognize the place and they’d recognize the menu,” he said. But Silkes has also added some new touches from his experience running a New York-style deli in Lafayette, Indiana, such as Italian sausage with peppers and onions, as well as some more adventurous items, like the Maui Burger with a sausage and beef patty, panko bread crumbs, Vidalia onion, lettuce, and pickled ginger, served on a King’s Hawaiian bun.

Front Street Deli, which is now officially open once more, will maintain the same hours, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday, which fits in well with Silkes’ food tour business. The prices will also stay fairly close to what they were before, with sandwiches starting at $5.50 and a complete lunch ringing in around $7.

Front Street Deli, 77 S. Front (522-8943)

The Office@Uptown is a shared office space in the heart of the recently revitalized Uptown community. But don’t let the business facade fool you: There is a palate party in the back, where The Office@Uptown Cafe is crafting some serious sandwiches for your midday meal.

Owner Valerie Peavy says the cafe was not in their original plans, but after looking around the neighborhood, she and her husband Jeff Harrison saw that the area could accommodate another food spot. “It was a natural fit,” she said. “We want to be a resource for the community.”

If simple, tasty sandwiches count as a resource, and we are of the opinion they do, the cafe is a veritable wellspring for Uptowners. Chefs Rodney Shelton and Yvos Warren have laid out a small selection of paninis, sandwiches, and salads based on “the things we like,” Peavy said.

“We figured, let’s don’t complicate things,” she added. “I’ve been places where they take a basic roast beef sandwich or a basic ham sandwich and fancy-shmancy it up to the point where you think, I just wanted a ham sandwich.”

To that end, a ham sandwich at the Office@Uptown Cafe is a ham sandwich.

The turkey panini on ciabatta is exactly what it purports to be — the right proportions of sliced turkey breast and smoked cheddar cheese layered with fresh spinach, tomato, and chipotle mayo.

The Smokey City Melt is a ramped-up grilled cheese with both smoked and plain cheddar, topped with tomato and served on a hearty sourdough bread.

All of the sandwiches are a good size for lunch and cost under $7. The dining area seats eight comfortably, but service is fast enough for to-go orders if dining in is not an option.

The kitchen is open Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. “We’re looking to expand eventually and be open Monday through Friday 7 to 7 and Saturday 8 to 4,” Peavy said.

“But we’re taking it slow for now. We’re working on our breakfast menu and our coffee drinks. We’re looking forward to where this ride takes us.”

The Office@Uptown Cafe, 594 N. Second (522-1905)

www.theofficeatuptown.com