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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Girls Inc. Farm: Working It

On Wednesday, Girls Inc. held its annual Celebration Luncheon at the Holiday Inn University of Memphis. The event honored those who could surely be deemed role models — women who encompass the Girls Inc. ideal of girls being strong, smart, and bold.

This year’s honorees were Joyce Johns, Dr. Jeanne Jamison, Rev. Sonia Louden Walker, and Beverly Robertson.

The luncheon sold out. It raised a record $43,000.

Charles Lennox is the new Director of Food and Beverage for the Holiday Inn University of Memphis. He was enlisted to help put on the luncheon. The girls suggested something more inclusive that would break the binds of an ordinary luncheon. They would make it picnic-style, with produce from the Girls Inc. farm.

“It was one of these serendipitous moments when all of a sudden ideas magically start to line up,” says Lennox. “They wanted to do something that had a feel of a picnic; they wanted to do something family-style, which is not something we’ve done before.”

Lennox and the girls brainstormed. They talked about what was growing on the farm. The ideas (fresh fruit in yogurt and honey, sandwiches, pasta salad, miniature desserts) came to fruition.

Lennox has daughters of his own and recognizes the value of the Girls Inc. to girls who are at a vulnerable age.

Kenya Ghanor is the program manager of Girls Inc. She says the farm program, which launched five years ago, has 15 girls, between the ages of 15 to 18. It is very competitive to get in.

Girls can qualify to be on the farm the second year in the Girls Inc. program, which is four years. The girls are then broken up into groups and assigned tasks, such as weeding, painting, or taking care of the hoop house.

Ghanor says they will break up the day by playing games or having water balloon fights. They’ll do yoga or meditation.

“They come in with whatever is on their mind, and we allow them the space to release it,” says Ghanor.

The girls also man the farmers markets — including the Memphis Farmers Market Downtown — in which they are involved.

The girls grow lettuce, tomatoes, spinach, zucchini, cucumbers, okra, herbs, and flowers on the 9.5 acre farm. They get a stipend for their work.

“They really run the farm,” Ghanor says. “They choose what crops we grow. They do all of the planning. They take care of the markets and all the money.”

She notes that it all fits in the Girls Inc. ethos. “Our mission is to inspire girls to be strong smart, and bold,” Ghanor says. “We’re definitely teaching them how to be strong which is mainly being healthy and making smart choices. Smart — they get a chance to really use their minds and we challenge them. Then they get that entrepreneur experience. They get a chance to speak out and advocate for themselves in the community.”

Another thing the girls do on the farm is keep bees. And from those bees comes the honey that will be used in the fresh fruit and yogurt dish at the luncheon. The honey is also a key element in a new summer cocktail at Strano! — the Girls Inc. Bourbon Bee Sting. A portion of the proceeds from the drink’s sales go to the organization.

Brian Dickerson, the bar manager of Strano!, says doing the cocktail was a no-brainer. They support Girls Inc. and Dickerson was intrigued with what he could do with the honey. Dickerson made a sort of simple syrup with the honey, lemon juice, and the jalapeño (which he’s also used in a Bloody Mary) and stir that in with Buffalo Trace bourbon and Angostura bitters.

“It’s light and refreshing and goes well with the summer heat,” he says.

Dickerson says he liked this project a lot. “Not to politicize it,” he says, “but certainly an organization like this is needed in 2019. Yeah, so I was very very very happy to work with them.”

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Okrapreneurs

It’s a sunny day in Frayser, and 16-year-old Zia Higgins is about to take her first bite of raw okra.

“It’s weird,” she says, rolling it around in her hand. “It’s kind of furry.”

She’s not wrong. The okra has a funny shape, and the fuzzy texture does not immediately scream “food.” But Higgins takes a bite anyway, and pretty soon the other girls follow suit. It’s crunchy and surprisingly sweet — and disappearing fast.

“Y’all better stop now,” Higgins warns through a mouth full of okra, “or we won’t have any left to sell.”

Higgins is one of six high school students employed at the Girls Inc. Youth Farm. Over the next year, she will be paid $7.25 per hour to build and run a sustainable food business. Naturally, that means planting, thinning, fertilizing, weeding, and trellising. But it also involves financial planning, marketing to restaurants, and selling produce at the farmers market.

The point, director Miles Tamboli says, is to raise up a generation of social entrepreneurs in North Memphis.

“Opportunities for young, black women in this city have been limited,” Tamboli observes. “I want to show them that they have the civic experience, the critical thinking skills, and the discipline they need to do whatever they want with their lives.”

Each day begins at 8 a.m., when the girls warm up with a series of yoga stretches. From there, they go on a “farm walk”: a trek around the 9.5-acre campus to see what needs doing. Today that means harvesting tomatoes, zucchini, and okra. It also means locating a treacherous hornworm that has been terrorizing the tomato plants.

While they search for the offending caterpillar, the girls sing “My Way” by rapper Fetty Wap.

They’re an inspiring bunch: energetic, hard-working, and whip-smart. But Tamboli is right. Many have not been given the opportunities they need to succeed.

“At school, they don’t care about us,” says Nikeishia Davis, a rising senior at MLK College Preparatory School. “But Mister Miles [Tamboli] cares about us. I learned more here in two months than I learn in a whole semester at school.”

The Girls Inc. Youth Farm came into being through a series of happy accidents. The first is the land, which was gifted to Girls, Inc. by the Assisi Foundation in 2003. The plan was to build a new headquarters, but the funding fell through.

The second happenstance is Tamboli himself. He graduated from Tulane with a degree in public health, then interned at an organic youth farm in New Orleans. The experience, he says, was transformative, and he dreamed of recreating it in Memphis, his hometown.

“I saw a creative solution to so many social ills,” remembers Tamboli. “It was not about pamphlets or awareness campaigns. It was about producing something real. Growing food with young people has an impact on so many different parts of their lives.”

Back in Frayser, Destiny Woody has spotted the hornworm. It’s three inches long and plump, about the size of a middle finger, but it’s nearly impossible to spot, on account of being the exact same shade of green as the tomato plants. At Tamboli’s urging, Woody snips it in half with a pair of garden shears, and a bunch of green goop squirts out. “Ew!” the farmers scream.

Over the next five years, Tamboli says he wants to make Girls Inc. Youth Farm self-sustaining. In the long run, he’d also like to sell 80 percent of his produce within Frayser.

“We want to feed everybody,” he says. “Not just 20,000 Midtowners who will pay $5 for a pound of tomatoes.”

It isn’t going to be easy. Transforming this land, which lay fallow for 20 years, will involve countless hours of hard work in scorching heat. It also means working side-by-side with millions of insects, including 500,000 honeybees from the farm’s nine hives.

But the biggest transformation here isn’t agricultural — it’s in the lives of these young women. Having been planted and watered, they are now beginning to bloom.

“I’m out there at the farmers market, stocking, doing inventory,” Nikeishia Davis says. “And I’m thinking, one day, I’m gonna be my own boss.”