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Food & Wine Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Grecian Gourmet to Close on South Main

Grecian Gourmet Taverna will close its doors on South Main in November, citing customer bases that have not yet rebounded from the Covid-19 pandemic. The Greek restaurant announced the move on Facebook Tuesday morning, calling it a “very difficult decision.”  

“We’ve worked so hard to build back, but we had to [take] stock of our life and time spent in the restaurant…

Grecian Gourmet

”Covid was hard on all of us, but especially the small businesses that survive on local business lunch and tourism, neither of which have yet rebounded to pre-pandemic numbers — and we’re tired,” reads the post. “We’ve worked so hard to build back, but we had to [take] stock of our life and time spent in the restaurant, and decided it’s time to focus on how we started — and make it even better.”

The restaurant began in 2017 in the Memphis Farmers Market. The owners signed a lease for the South Main restaurant space in December of that year. 

The restaurant will be reborn as “Grecian Gourmet Kitchen” and focus on retail and catering from a new space in East Memphis. 

The restaurant’s last open day downtown will be Wednesday, November 23rd.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Greek (Food) Odyssey: How JoBeth Graves created The Grecian Gourmet Taverna

When it comes to food, it’s all Greek to JoBeth Graves.

Graves is the owner/founder of The Grecian Gourmet Taverna on South Main. Customers dine on traditional Greek food, including spanakopita and moussaka. They also take home the restaurant’s products, including bottled infused olive oils and Greek vinaigrettes, which, along with her frozen Greek dinners, are commercially sold in stores. And they can take classes on Greek cooking from Graves.

For the record: Graves isn’t Greek.

“My first husband was Greek and we did a lot of entertaining,” Graves says. “I basically had to teach myself how to cook Greek food.”

Born in Jackson, Tennessee, Graves grew up on “just Southern food like you would normally eat when you grow up in Jackson. Green beans, white beans, cornbread, fried and roasted chicken.”

She and her first husband had the traditional big fat Greek wedding at Annunciation Greek Orthodox Church. Graves and relatives cooked all the food. “We would get together every Sunday for six weeks. We made 1,000 Greek wedding cookies, 500 stuffed grape leaves. We hand-made spanakopita. We rented a freezer on Southern and put everything in there.”

JoBeth Graves
(Photo: Michael Donahue)

Graves loved everything about the food, which is a reflection of the Greek people. “Greek people are just naturally vibrant and the food is expressed through that. Food is a part of every experience, every occasion. When someone comes to your house, you have food. Lots of food.”

Over the years, she was given recipes for Greek food, but she put her own spin on them. Graves, who doesn’t fry any of her Greek food, designed her own dishes, figuring out what flavors work best.

Her cooking extended to other functions, as well. “I would cater weddings for my friends.”

Around 2016, Graves, a nurse practitioner who worked for 30 years at St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital, began selling her Greek bottled products at St. Jude’s farmers market. She also sold her hummus, feta dip, and homemade feta chips. “It snowballed from there.”

She began setting up at flea markets all over Memphis. Graves, who remarried, and her husband, Jeff Watkins, ended up renting an industrial kitchen at Arkansas State University, where they prepared their food.

In 2018, they decided to open a restaurant. They found a space that belonged to artist Ephraim Urevbu, whose studio is next door. “He liked the vision of food as art.”

The restaurant was an instant success. “We had people lining up from the street to the door and people waiting on tables. Trolley Night would be crazy. Ephraim would have music playing out on his patio, and we would have people outside. We set up additional tables. The buzz and the energy was exactly what I wanted when we considered having a restaurant. We just felt good to be here.”

During the pandemic, the restaurant “never closed,” Graves says. “We stayed open. During that period of time when they went into the initial lockdowns, so many restaurants just shut down. Jeff and I had a really long conversation. We came back and told the employees, ‘We want you to go home and shelter in place and stay there.’ We paid them. We never laid anyone off. Jeff and I worked the restaurant every day. We did a big pivot and changed everything to online ordering and to-go.”

The restaurant is now open for indoor dining.

In 2019, Graves and Watkins moved to South Main. “I live a block away. We love South Main so much, we bought our home in this neighborhood. We walk back and forth to work. This community and the South Main Arts District, it’s home to us. We enjoy the people here. Our customers are also our neighbors and friends.”

The Grecian Gourmet Taverna is at 412 South Main Street; (901) 249-6626.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

The scoop on Carolina Watershed and Grecian Gourmet Taverna

Eating in a grain bin sounds cold and impersonal, but, as it turns out, the Carolina Watershed is quite cozy, with a cool bomb shelter vibe. The inside has been sprayed with insulation, giving the walls a sturdy and warm concrete look. The property is composed of four grain bins. Two smaller ones make up the kitchen. The biggest, at 36 feet, is used for the main dining/bar area, and there’s another small bin outside, used as a bar.

Mac Hopper, an owner of the restaurant, says as a former farm boy, the idea of the bins appealed to him. He also notes using them is pretty dang cheap, too.

Hopper got the restaurant bug after working on Loflin Yard. He had had his eye on the Carolina site, across from apartments he owns, for quite a while. One day a sign went up, the next day he bought it.

The Carolina of Carolina Watershed is because the place in on Carolina Avenue, downtown across the street from Wayne’s Candy. Watershed is a nod to the physical attributes of the property. There was once a house there, that was demolished. The site was dug out, which gave it the appearance of a watershed, according to Hopper.

In addition to the grain bin bar, outside there’s a couple of fire pits and waterfalls, and the yard is circled overhead by a bluff that will be closed off for private parties. Side yards offer hints of future soccer and yard games.

Andy Knight

Andy Knight, formerly of Loflin Yard, serves as chef. “Southern deli — that’s what it is,” says Knight. “True Southern-style cooking involves long cook times, grilling out, smoked foods.”

One customer came in asking for his grandma, such is the style of the food, says Knight.

The menu features such true-blue sides as dilled cucumber & tomato salad, mac & cheese, black eyed peas, and buttermilk cornbread. Entrees include grilled pimento cheese with fried green tomato (!), pork belly BLT, and a terrific-looking buttermilk chicken sandwich. They also offer, like any good place wanting to show off their Southern bona fides, a fried bologna sandwich.

The restaurant has a late-night menu with a trio of burgers and loaded fries. On the cocktail menu: Jolene (Old Dominick Toddy, sweet tea, lavender lemonade), Hello Darlin (rum, lime juice, pureed corn, strawberries, hellfire bitters), and Coal Miner’s Daughter (gin, lemon juice, muddled blackberries). There’s also a brunch menu for Saturday and Sunday with French toast, short rib hash, steak and eggs, and, of course, a Southern sausage biscuit with gravy.

Carolina Watershed is thinking outside the cooker, so to speak. They will be offering — ready for it? — Carolina-style barbecue. Knight notes Memphis has plenty of barbecue places. “Ours is going to be different,” he says.

Winter hours: Monday and Tuesday 11-3 p.m.; Wednesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-midnight; Friday, 11 a.m.-2 a.m., Saturday, 9 a.m.-3 a.m.; Sunday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m.

Carolina Watershed, 141 E. Carolina (321-5553)

Jeff Watkins met JoBeth in the ninth grade. Their paths separated for 35 years, until they met up again by chance in the Atlanta airport.

The Watkins have since married and pledged to find something to do together in their retirement. (Aw!) “We like spending time together,” says Jeff. That thing is the Grecian Gourmet Taverna, to be located at 412 South Main. They already have a head start, selling their Grecian Gourmet dips, desserts, and take-and-bake dishes at local farmer markets and area grocery stores.

Right now, work is being done on the space, which is next door to Art Village. The space is pretty — light floors, punched tin tiles on the ceiling. They plan to add a trio of coolers, an awning to cover the patio, raised seating at the window for people watching. There will be a huge chalkboard menu board and food art like paintings of eggplants and arugula.

They will follow a fast-casual plan, with ordering at the counter, which includes bar orders. Jeff envisions the Grecian Gourmet as a European street cafe sort of space. He sees diners getting a carafe of wine and relaxing on the patio.

The menu is JoBeth’s domain. Right now, it features the classics — Spanakopita, Moussaka, Pastitso, Dolmathes, Lamb Sliders, and gyros. Sides include Tabbouleh, Greek and cucumber salads, plus there’s Baklava for dessert. The coolers will contain grab-and-go items.

At the beginning, they’ll be open for lunch and dinner, with roughly the same menu and Sundays reserved for specials. JoBeth sees her special spatchcocked chicken, Grecian platters, and Lamb Paschou on the Sunday menu. Eventually, they’ll offer breakfast with homemade Greek yogurt.

The Watkins feel like they’ll be filling a need for a good Greek place. “We felt we developed a niche,” Jeff says. “We dreamed of having a place like this.”

Soft opening for Grecian Gourmet begins February 15th, with a grand opening set for March 10th.

Grecian Gourmet Taverna will be open 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., Tuesday through Sunday.

Grecian Gourmet Taverna, 412 S. Main