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Food & Wine Food & Drink

The Secret Smash Society’s Patty Daddys

The Secret Smash Society returns March 5th to cook its mouth wateringly-good smash burgers.

And you’d better get there early because the event, held this time at High Cotton Brewing Company, usually is, well, a smash.

Their last public event was in September at Wiseacre Brewing Company. “We sold out in two-and-a-half hours,” says Harrison Downing, who makes up the team alongside Schuyler O’Brien and Cole Jeanes.

And, he says, “That was the most burgers we did. Close to 300.”

“People were lining up an hour before we opened,” O’Brien adds.

But, Downing adds, “The line moves fast because the burgers are cooked fast.”

They own all their equipment, so setting up and packing down is a snap. “If we wanted to do one tomorrow we could probably make it happen. There’s not much planning. We’ve got it down to a science.”

Burger lovers don’t get a lot of notice about their events. “That’s kind of why we play on the ‘secret’ thing,” Downing says, adding, “We don’t post much on social media until it’s about to get going.”

They don’t like to hold the events too often. But, O’Brien says, “It’s not like we’re just sitting around making people suffer. We have so much other shit going on. When it works, it works, and we make it happen. That’s as regular as we can get it for us.”

O’Brien is City Silo Table + Pantry’s food and beverage director, Downing is chef/sandwich artist at Greys Fine Cheese, and Jeanes is chef/owner of Kinfolk restaurant, consultant and private chef with Jeanes Hospitality, a partner with Josh Conley in the Etowah Hunt Club dinner series, and a partner with Kyle Taylor, James Lancaster, and Tyler Porter of Bloodhound Provisions.

“I love doing it because I get to cook with Schuyler and Harrison,” Jeanes says. “We don’t get to cook often at all.”

And, he says, “When we are together I don’t have to ask them to do something. They already know the next step I need to take. If I’m busy, they know what to do. It’s like a dance, basically. If you’re dancing with a partner who doesn’t know how to dance it’s very cluttered and messy, but if you’re dancing with someone who is good, it’s very smooth.”

Using a burger press, they smash together two three-ounce patties until they’re completely flat. The burgers cook quickly. The fat goes back into the meat because it doesn’t have time to render out.

“Patty Daddys” is The Secret Smash Society’s nickname. All three chefs are new fathers. Hudson Downing is four months old, Finley O’Brien is one year old, and Luca Jeanes is 16 months old.

Their last Secret Smash Society event, a private one, was pretty hectic, Downing says. “My wife went into labor that day.”

They had to switch all their equipment, which was in Downing’s truck, to O’Brien’s Pathfinder. “I had to trade vehicles and head to the hospital.”

Downing’s new baby is one reason they haven’t held a Secret Smash Society event in a while. “We wanted to give Harry time to take in fatherhood and all,” O’Brien says, adding, “We gave him paternity leave.”

The Secret Smash Society can do other things besides make smash burgers. They were among the chefs who had to create a dish out of a piece of pig at the Hill Country Boucherie and Blues Picnic last September in Como, Mississippi. The event was held at Home Place Pastures, which is where The Secret Smash Society chefs get the beef for their smash burgers. The pig part, whether it’s the cheek, tongue, or something else, is determined by a drawing. “They literally draw your name out of a hat,” O’Brien says.

The Secret Smash Society chefs had to make something out of a pig heart. So, they came up with a Japanese-style yakitori skewer.

And, out of 17 or so chefs, O’Brien says, “We took first place.”

The Secret Smash Society will cook burgers from 2 p.m. until sell out, March 5th, at High Cotton Brewing Company at 598 Monroe.

Categories
Food & Drink Food Reviews

Ordering up the Unexpected

If a place is known for its fried chicken, you order the fried chicken. End of discussion. Or… maybe there’s a restaurant widely revered for its specialty but offers a dish that is mind-blowingly incongruent and yet so very delicious. You’re going to want to try that too, right?

Elwood’s fish tacos

Fish Tacos at Elwood’s Shack

Elwood’s Shack is literally a shack adjacent to the Lowe’s parking lot on Perkins near Summer. It’s safe to say that it’s the last place you’d expect to find a mighty fine fish taco. The Steelhead Trout Fish Tacos ($11) come two to a plate. An eight-inch tortilla is baked with mozzarella to form the taco shell, and because the cheese coats the entire tortilla, it tastes as though the trout is wrapped in a crispy, deliciously gooey quesadilla. (Look out, Taco Bell!) Steelhead trout is a fish that spends part of its life in the ocean and can grow up to 55 pounds. The meat is very pink, and the flavor is not at all fishy. The trout is topped with fresh field greens, avocado, pico de gallo, and a creamy horseradish sauce. It’s really quite amazing. And filling. I have no idea how anyone could eat two. Sides are sold separately, so definitely hold off on those or get someone to share.

Elwood’s Shack, 4523 Summer (761-9898)

elwoodsshack.com

Pirtle’s burger

Hamburger at Jack Pirtle’s

Clearly Jack Pirtle’s is known for their chicken, as they should be, but they also cook up a damn fine burger. The Old Fashioned Grilled Hamburger is not fancy, and it doesn’t need to be. All of the basics are there — a nice-sized patty (grilled to perfection), crispy iceberg lettuce, thick cut raw onion, thinly sliced tomato, generous pickle slices, lots of mayo, and tangy mustard. The kicker is the buttered and grilled bun. (Butter = love.) It’s reminiscent of the kind of burger you’d order late at night in a bar, but it’s available all day long and you don’t need a buzz to think it tastes good! And for $2.79, it’s a steal. With prices that low, you’ll want to order a side of fries to dip in their signature gravy. Go ahead, get a little chicken too. Put it the fridge and eat it later.

Jack Pirtle’s Chicken, 1370 Poplar

(726-6086) jackpirtleschicken.com

Dino’s tamales

Tamales at Dino’s

The tamales at Dino’s are listed under “Italian specialties” on the menu, but they are made in South Memphis especially for the restaurant. They come plain, with chili, or “3 way” ($7.95) — with chili and spaghetti. Of course, I had to go with the latter. The 3-way tamales definitely fall under the “Things I never thought I’d eat sober” category. Although, honestly, they may in fact be the perfect hangover food. The tamales themselves are tender, meaty, and pack a nice, spicy punch. Four of them serve as a base for the spaghetti and chili (a combination known as spaghetti red). You can’t eat chili without cheese and onions, so it’s like three meals in one. Dino’s chili isn’t far off from its traditional sauce (aka gravy). I’d bet they just add some beans to it. Whatever they do, I like it. There’s enough tomato-y goodness to get a traditional spaghetti fix with the noodles and enough bean action to get the full-on chili experience. It is way too easy to eat way too much of this!

Dino’s Grill, 645 N McLean (278-9127)

dinosgrill.com