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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Tops Keeps Topping Its Menu 

Eating at Tops Bar-B-Q & Burgers was a once-or-twice-a-month visit for the Donahue family when I was growing up. We always got barbecue. And my dad always wanted to go to a particular Tops location on Jackson Avenue because he believed we got more barbecue on our sandwiches there.

Well, a lot has changed. I eat at Tops about twice a week on the average. I fell in love with the hamburgers a long time ago. They’re the benchmark when it comes to grilled hamburgers. And I loved the turkey burger when it was introduced. Then the chicken sandwich with white sauce and dill pickles.

I’m happy Tops keeps introducing new items. And now they’ve added even more.

I talked recently with Tops execs Randy Hough and Hunter Brown to discover what’s new at this iconic restaurant that began in Memphis in 1952.

“We are a barbecue company with world-famous cheeseburgers,” Brown says. “That is our core group of what got us to the dance and what will forever be in our blood. When we think of a lot of new items, we try to broaden the audience. But never take our mind off the main date that got us to the dance.”

Listening to their customers, Tops added chicken and turkey. “Some people don’t eat pork or beef, so there’s an option for someone now.”

Regarding the turkey burger, Brown says, “I would put this turkey burger up against any turkey burger in Memphis, hands down.”

Hough discovered that a customer added rib rub to their turkey burger. “What a great combination.”

After noticing customers making additions to their sandwiches, Tops execs thought, “Let’s give a couple of other options for our guests,” Hough said.

They now offer “Smoky,” “Spicy,” and “Sloppy” pulled chicken sandwiches.

“Smoky” is their original pulled chicken sandwich, which they called the “Fire Braised” chicken sandwich. This is the one with the white sauce and dill pickles. It’s permanently on the menu.

“Spicy” is similar to “Smoky” except they substituted thick, spicy hot pickles for the dill pickles. And, Hunter says, “We took our traditional white sauce used for the ‘Smoky’ and blended it with our original Tops hot barbecue sauce.”

Then there’s the “Sloppy,” now one of my all-time favorite sandwiches. The pulled chicken sandwich is paired with “Slop Sauce,” which Brown describes as “a little bit of a tropical barbecue sauce.” The “sweet, light” sauce is “more of a Hawaiian barbecue sauce.”

For the base, they added a grilled pineapple, which is perfect for me because I love sweet and savory.

“Sloppy” and “Spicy” aren’t permanent menu items. “This is a limited time offer,” Brown says. “Get it while it lasts.”

But they might stick around if there’s a high demand. That’s what happened with the “Smoky” when it was introduced two years ago. It was meant to be a three-month special, but, Hough says, “because of the amount of guests that purchased it and the comments we got, we said, ‘We just can’t pull it. We have to leave it here.’”

“What we like to do with some of these different options is to bring them back,” he continues. “Let guests have the opportunity to try new items and then we come back with them later, if they were well-received, and give them another chance to try them.”

That brings us to the newest item at Tops: a hot dog. “There are certain guests that told us they would love for us to have a good, all-beef hot dog,” Hough says.

And they already have flat-top grills at their restaurants.

The hot dog is now available only at the Frayser Tops locations at 2288 Frayser Boulevard and 3023 Thomas Street. Those “are two of our oldest locations and have the voice of the guests that have been customers for years,” Brown says, adding, “It has been received with open arms. It’s been great. It’s been received so well it’s actually opened up options for it to go to other restaurants.”

Tops offers three varieties of hot dogs. One, which comes with a drink and costs $4.99, is “a nice, all-beef grilled hot dog dressed with ketchup and mustard and a big bag of Brim’s chips.”

The “specialty hot dogs” are the “Memphis Slaw Dog,” with coleslaw and original Tops barbecue sauce, and the “BLT dog,” which is dressed with mayonnaise, lettuce, tomato, bacon, and melted cheese. Both come with Brim’s chips and a drink.

All the hot dogs are “grilled to order,” which means they aren’t putting the hot dogs on a roller and letting them sit gas station-style, Brown adds.

Finally, I heard a rumor that Tops is going to offer turkeys during the holidays.

“We are verifying the rumor,” Hough says. “It’s in the works.”

It will be a “pit-smoked turkey breast that will feed about 10 people,” he says. They will offer the turkeys from November 1st through the first week in January. It doesn’t come with sides because they feel most people serve their own signature sides. “We’ll smoke the turkey and they do the sides.”

And, Hough says, “This turkey promotion is the first time we’ve ever done anything like this.”

Tops isn’t stopping when it comes to new products. “We never stop working on new ideas,” Hough says. “This is it for right now — a lot going on. Certainly other things, for sure. But nothing we can talk about right now.”

But here’s a hint: One long-time Tops employee created “an amazing cheeseburger salad,” Brown says. 

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Vegging out at the Super Bowl.

The Super Bowl is coming up, and while I don’t give a hoot about who wins or loses, I do care deeply about the game. Is it the commercials? No! Could it possibly be the half-time show? Nope! It’s the food, of course!

And though I don’t have a dog in the fight, I came up with recipes that replace the hotdog and sausage with whole, fresh vegetables. Go ahead and give these recipes a shot. They are so easy, and it’ll give y’all something to talk about if the game gets boring.

Charred Carrot Hotdogs

6 very large carrots*

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper (to taste)

6 whole wheat or gluten-free hot dog buns

Vegetarian chili, cheddar cheese, chopped white onion, sauerkraut, pickles,

ketchup, spicy mustard (to serve)

Over a high flame on your outdoor grill’s side burner or under your oven’s broiler, char the carrots until they are deeply blackened all over. This will take roughly 20 minutes if you turn the carrots 1/4 turn every 5 minutes. Once they are sufficiently blackened, remove them and wrap them tightly in aluminum foil. Allow the charred carrots to rest for 15 minutes. They will finish cooking through during that time, and the smoke flavor will infuse throughout.

If they are cool enough to handle, pull the char off of each carrot just like you would for a roasted red pepper. Drizzle the carrots with sesame oil and add salt and pepper to taste. Feel free to warm them up on the grill if you’d like; serve them on a bun with your favorite toppings. (Serves 4-6.)

*Look for the carrots that are about as big around as a half-dollar and have very little taper to them. The biggest carrots you can find are what’s going to work best here. They shrink slightly during the cooking process, and then you pull off the charred part, so they will be smaller once it comes time to eat.

Justin Fox Burks

Mushroom-Stuffed Mushrooms

Mushroom-Stuffed Mushrooms

2 tablespoons olive oil (divided)

1/4 cup finely chopped shallot

3 cloves garlic (finely chopped)

8 ounces portobello or other mushrooms (finely chopped)

1 cup finely chopped celery (about 2 ribs)

1/2 cup finely chopped carrot (1 medium)

1 1/2 teaspoon rubbed sage

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1/8 teaspoon clove

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

1 tablespoon soy sauce (like Bragg’s)

1 tablespoon maple syrup

1 tablespoon spicy mustard (like Zatarain’s)

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper (to taste)

1 cup uncooked quick-cooking oats 

12 to 15 large crimini or button mushroom caps

1/2 cup shredded cheddar cheese (or vegan shreds)

1/4 cup sliced green onions

Use your food processor to make short work of all of the chopping. Just roughly chop shallot, garlic, mushrooms, celery, and carrots, and process them in batches by pulsing the blade until finely chopped.

Heat one tablespoon of the oil in a large 12-inch frying pan over high heat. Add the chopped shallot, garlic, mushrooms, celery, and carrot to the pan. Stir consistently and sauté until all of the liquid has released and then evaporated; this should take about 5 minutes. Add the sage, red pepper flakes, clove, nutmeg, soy sauce, and maple syrup to the pan. Stir to incorporate and remove from heat. Add the uncooked quick-cooking oats and stir the mixture until everything is well incorporated. Add salt and pepper to taste. Cover and set aside in the fridge for at least 15 minutes to allow the moisture to distribute.

Preheat your over to 350 degrees. Pull the stem out of each mushroom cap and save for another use. Place mushrooms gill-side-up in a large casserole dish. Drizzle the caps with the remaining olive oil, and season caps with a little salt and pepper. Using your hands, mound as much filling into each cap as you can. Gently press it in so that it fills all of the air pockets. Repeat until all filling is used.

Cover casserole dish tightly with foil and bake for 30 minutes. Remove the foil, top each with cheddar and bake another 3 minutes or until cheese is melted. Top with sliced green onions and serve. These can be served warm or at room temperature.