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Food & Drink Food Reviews

The Black Sheep Hot Sauces

The Black Sheep might sound like an unusual name for a hot sauce, but founder/creator Lawerence Russell has a good explanation.

“There’s hundreds and thousands of hot sauces,” he says. “The idea was, ‘This is not just another hot sauce.’ Black sheep stand out in the crowd. We do things differently.’”

Russell, 40, owner of Black Sheep Bottling Co., is a hot sauce lover. “And I love cooking food in a smoker. Smoking food. So anytime I would be smoking ribs, pork shoulders, [and had] the extra room on the smoker, I’d throw some peppers on there and make hot sauce out of it.”

He would “just slow smoke the peppers. Once the peppers are smoked, get them off the grill.”

Russell adds roasted garlic, sea salt, tomato, onion, and distilled white vinegar. He then blends everything together and brings it to a simmer.

Born in Abilene, Texas, Russell moved to Memphis when he was six months old. He was introduced to grilling by his dad on camping trips. “Just being around fire and that sort of thing. I’ve always loved the slow-cooking process. Keeping the fire right.”

And “being in Memphis around barbecue” didn’t hurt, either.

“I think I got my first barrel smoker when I was about 25. Up until then I just had a grill. I’d just grill with friends. Cooking out on football Sundays.”

Russell came up with his smoky hot sauce “kind of on a whim. Part of it was what peppers I could get at the store. Most hot sauces you get peppers, vinegar, water, and salt.”

He wanted something different. So, along with garlic and onions, he began smoking the peppers, which gave a “smoky flavor” to his hot sauce.

Russell decided to sell his hot sauce commercially about five years ago. He liked the idea of starting a small business. “Learn the process and go through everything.”

He also loved visiting the local farmers markets. “I always enjoyed being there. I thought if I would have a product, I could be a part of the farmers market.”

Russell got his business license, and began bottling his hot sauce at a commercial kitchen at Crosstown Concourse.

He brought his hot sauce to a farmers market for the first time in 2019. “I thought I’d sell maybe five or 10 bottles. I sold over 60. We were offering samples: ‘Give it a try.’ Everybody who tasted it bought it.”

Russell now has three hot sauce flavors. Original is great on “everything from eggs and sandwiches to grilled meats and veggies.”

On Fire, a hotter version of Original, is for people with a higher heat tolerance. He kicked up the heat by adding more habanero peppers.

Gone Green, which includes smoked poblano and serrano peppers, is similar to salsa verde, Russell says. “I love it on enchiladas and black beans and rice.”

Russell uses his hot sauce “two to three times a day. I’ll put it on my eggs in the morning for breakfast. If I’m having fried rice or a sandwich at lunch I’ll put it on. And then for dinner whatever I’m having — grilled steak or veggies — I’ll add it to that.”

Among others who love his hot sauce are the cooks at Dory restaurant.

David Krog, who, along with his wife, Amanda, owns Dory, says he serves Black Sheep hot sauces with the staff meals at the restaurant. “We put out the green and then the red with our family meal most every day,” he says.

Krog discovered the hot sauce when Russell gave him a bottle. Their children attend the same school. “I brought it to the restaurant and put it out and we all tasted the red and the green. The response from all of those cooks was unexpected for me. These guys were over the moon with this product. This guy’s hot sauce. I told him, ‘I’m in shock. All of my guys think this is an incredible product.’”

Black Sheep hot sauces are available at High Point Grocery, Triangle Meat Market, and Doc’s Wine, Spirits & More. 

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Reevo’s Hot Sauce Raises the Temperature

You can blame the creation of Reevo’s Hot Sauce on the 2008 Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest.

Reeves Callaway, 28, was 13 when his dad let him visit the Smokers Anonymous barbecue team at the Memphis in May competition.

Callaway watched a guy make hot wing sauce. “I guess it was a competition for hot wings,” he says. “I see this guy putting all these things in a bowl.

“I’m seeing grape jelly and orange juice and all these different kinds of spice blends. You see all these things individually. And I thought ‘Holy, shit. There’s a great sauce.’”

Callaway went home and tried to recreate what he witnessed. “I had grape jelly and orange juice.” The result? “It was absolutely terrible.”

Undaunted, Callaway kept trying. “Seeing a sauce come together with all those bizarre ingredients really made me want to try to do that.

“I got a generic Tabasco and cayenne pepper mix. I just started simple. I kind of added a little bit of sweet teriyaki flavor. Some sweet and garlicky flavors and kept it simple instead of the whole pineapple, habanero fruity hot sauces.”

When the next Memphis in May festival rolled around, Callaway was ready. “As a cocky 14-year-old, I said, ‘If I can cook a better wing, then I’m the wing chef this time.’”

His wings came in first place in a blind tasting among team members, and he became the team’s wing chef.

Those wings came in the top 25 that year. “I was addicted after that.”

Callaway, who remained the team’s wing chef, didn’t do much sauce tweaking over the years. “I kept it the same. I just changed how long I would cook the meat. Sometimes I would marinate it longer, maybe sprinkle a little celery salt on it. But the sauce always tasted the same.”

“Look,” he adds, “this sauce is not meant to hurt you. This is not one of those asshole kill-your-tongue hot sauces.”

But, he says, “It’s definitely a savory tang and it’s a growing heat. The first bite is pretty mild. And your seventh and eighth bite, it’s getting hot.”

Callaway decided to take his sauce to another level the year it reached sixth place at the Memphis in May competition. In 2019, Callaway, who graduated in marketing and advertising from the University of Memphis, decided to sell his sauce commercially. He named it Reevo’s Hot Sauce after himself. “I’ve been called ‘Reevo’ by my parents since I can’t remember.”

Reevo’s Hot Sauce is now sold in Memphis establishments, including Cordelia’s Market, King & Union Bar Grocery, Ben Yay’s, and Triangle Meat Market. Callaway makes smaller batches in his kitchen. He uses commercial kitchens for larger orders.

He also makes a local honey hot sauce, which, for now, is only available online at askforreevos.com. “Regular hot sauce with honey added. It delays the heat.

“That honey makes it sweet on your tongue. And the heat slides down the back of your throat. So, a little more flavor and sweet on top on the first bite and the heat builds on the back end.”

As for future products, Callaway says, “I’m kind of open to see where it goes. I’m not really quitting my job to see how big I can make it right now. I’m really enjoying it being a fun thing on the side.

“Maybe a barbecue rub, hot wing spice or something down the line, but nothing in the works right now.” Callaway’s day job, by the way, is perfect for somebody who makes hot sauce. “I work at Shambaugh & Son selling fire alarm systems.”

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Papi’s Pepper Sauce: How a Collierville Couple Turned a Pepper Patch into a Business

When life gives you hot peppers, make pepper sauce. That’s what Joe and Kay Paul did.

“I was growing all these different peppers out back,” says Joe, 73. “And I got to wondering what I could do with them. So I started playing around with different hot sauces. I researched them on the internet.”

One day the couple came up with the perfect vinegar-based sauce: Papi Joe’s Tennessee Pepper Sauce. Made at their commercial kitchen in Rossville, Tennessee, it is now in eight states and 40 stores, including Whole Foods.

Kay and Joe Paul

“It’s a combination of a lot of different flavors,” Kay says. “That’s what makes it so special. Joe didn’t feel like it was really a hot sauce because it’s not so hot that you can’t enjoy it. It’s got more flavor.

“Every batch has 100 cloves of fresh garlic,” Kay adds. “We don’t use garlic powder or garlic salt in our sauce. And he insists that it has to be USA-grown.”

The couple took the sauce to Jungle Jim’s International Market Weekend of Fire in Fairfield, Ohio, where they got a good response. They competed the next year. Out of 3,500 people and 300 sauces, Papi Joe’s took first place. “We knew we had them when their eyes got great-big when they tasted it,” says Kay.

Their business started to grow after Joe took the sauce to gift shops in Collierville, where they live. “I just walked in and said, ‘Hey, do you want to taste something?'”

They then began thinking about making a Bloody Mary mix. “Every time we cooked the sauce, we had the drippings that were literally thrown down the drain,” Kay says. So they took the pepper sauce, tomatoes, and celery salt and came up with Papi’s Sassy Bloody Mary Mix, which now is in about 40 liquor stores, including Buster’s Liquors & Wines.

They then created Papi-Q Tart & Tangy BBQ Sauce. “It’s got plenty of pepper sauce in it, brown sugar, local sorghum molasses, no additives,” Joe says.

They also have Papi Joe’s Tennessee Whisky BBQ Sauce, which is made with George Dickel whiskey. It comes in a 12-ounce flask. And Papi Joe’s X-treme Pepper Sauce includes ghost peppers. “It will not hurt you, but it’s a lot hotter than the pepper sauce in our original recipe,” says Kay.

Joe and Kay’s son, Don Paul, is also part of the operation. “We have the original location in Rossville,” Joe says. “It’s a 100-year-old building. It used to be a general store. We rehabbed that to make our commercial kitchen.”

Their equipment includes a 40-gallon steam kettle and a grape press. “It’s bottled there, labeled there, and shipped from there. All by hand.”

Joe and Kay, who have been married 53 years, met in Lexington, Kentucky. “I was riding down the street backwards on my bicycle and she saw me and fell in love with me,” says Joe. “And a week later she asked me to marry her.”

That’s not exactly how it happened, Kay says: “We were neighbors.”

Joe got his Papi Joe nickname after his first grandchild was born. He wanted to be called Papi.

“I took that picture in the backyard that’s on the bottle,” Kay says. “Every bottle has a picture of Joe on it.”

Joe and Kay are considering pepper jelly, glazes, and rubs but aren’t planning for more products yet. Kay’s thought is, “Let’s just do really well at what we’re doing now and give ourselves a break. And then we’ll get onto something else.”

To buy online, go to papijoes.com.