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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Monique Williams Opens New Biscuits & Jams Location Downtown

Dinner — as well as breakfast, lunch, and brunch — is now being served at the new Downtown location of Biscuits & Jams at 24 B.B. King Boulevard, adjacent to Hotel Indigo.

The restaurant, which provides food services for the hotel and the public, recently held its grand opening.

Williams, who also owns Biscuits & Jams at 5806 Stage Road in Bartlett, Tennessee, says the new location has “a little more city vibe” since it’s in a Downtown hotel. “A certain type of upscale-ness you would think of a restaurant that’s attached to a hotel,” she says.

The Juke Speakeasy at Biscuits & Jams, which features a bar, food, and live music for people 25 years and older, is downstairs, where the iconic Memphis Sounds night spot used to be located. “I had been there in the past when it was Memphis Sounds. Very nostalgic. I thought we could do our own little take on that space.”

The new Biscuits & Jams location doesn’t have the same feel as the Bartlett location, which is “like walking into grandma’s house. A lot more cozy.”

But both places have her grandmother’s vibe, Williams says.

Her grandmother, the late Laura Stepter, was the inspiration for Biscuits & Jams as well as The Juke, she says. “You get two sides of Laura in here.” 

“My grandmother worked for Memphis City Schools. She did all types of different cakes, pies, and breads. She cooked for so many people. She made biscuits every day. Homemade biscuits. This is like a love story to her.”

Server China Crump

Biscuits & Jams upstairs is bright and airy, with light coming through the windows and an open kitchen where diners can see cooks “moving and grooving.” 

The decor is in green, gold, and tan. “Those earthy tones.”

Williams also includes pictures of different musicians hanging on the wall. “We serve biscuits and jam and preserves and ‘jams’ music.”

“Downstairs is all inspired by my grandmother in her younger days. She was a ‘preacher’s kid.’”

Her grandmother’s father was a minister in Indianola, Mississippi, in Sunflower County, but that didn’t stop Stepter from following her own path, Williams says. “In her younger days, she made moonshine.”

Stepter made brandy from the peach skins she collected after making her peach preserves. Williams says her cousin, who is a Biscuits & Jams co-owner, remembers how her Uncle Hoover got “deathly ill” and “almost died from getting into the moonshine our grandmother made.”

“Moonshine light fixtures,” which resemble Mason jars people used as moonshine containers, hang from the ceiling. The doors look like barn doors, tin is used on the front of the long bar, and the tabletops and chairs are made of rustic, distressed wood. “We wanted you to make believe you stepped into a juke joint. It has that kind of look to it.”

Performers Steve Bethany and Gerald Richardson

The Juke Boom Boom Room is a small, private, eclectic room off the side with a TV and comfortable chairs where guests can just relax.

The Juke Speakeasy at Biscuits & Jams features “moonshine-infused beverages,” Williams says. “Our signature cocktail drinks are made from moonshine.”

For now, items on the upstairs menu at the Downtown Biscuits & Jams are identical to those on the Bartlett restaurant’s menu. They include “a lot of the signature items that people have grown to love from the Bartlett location. But we will be introducing some different dishes with a certain amount of flair to them. A lot more Cajun, Creole dishes.” 

In other words, “Some delicious updates to the menu and more, with very intricate culinary items that I think people will love.”

Signature items include shrimp and crawfish Benedict, shrimp and grits, gumbo, and hamburgers.

And, on the upcoming dinner menu, Williams says, “You’ll see some alligator.”

An Alligator Corn Dog will be one of them. “It’s actually alligator that I marinated and I cooked. We batter it and fry it.”

They’re served on a stick with “different mustards. Cajun mustard and all that. And regular table mustard.”

Another upcoming dinner item will be Seafood Monica, which is made with a buttery Chardonnay, rotini noodles, shallots, cream sauce, and “other goodness.”

Williams also is planning to add catfish and grits with crawfish gravy, which has been a popular special at the Bartlett location.

A new brunch item is Lemon Ricotta Pancakes, which are thin, light, and similar to crepes. They’re served with blueberry syrup.

In addition to ordering food from the upstairs menu, customers can order from The Juke menu at night. Items include cheese charcuterie trays, crab cakes, truffle fries, and crab and crawfish bisque.

Her Bourbon Beef Sliders come with onion jam, arugula, and bourbon barbecue sauce, Williams says.

The Juke menu items, which also can be ordered upstairs at Biscuits & Jams, include cheese charcuterie trays, crab cakes, truffle fries, and crab and crawfish bisque.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Lucky Clover: Tim Quinn Doubled Down Downtown

You might remember Tim Quinn when he was a server at Pete & Sam’s. Or maybe when he was waiting tables at Perkins Restaurant & Bakery. Or Molly’s La Casita.

Well, he now owns two restaurants: Memphis Clover Club at Hotel Indigo and Local on Main Street. He bought both of them in 2021.

“I wanted to own a restaurant and a bar by the time I was 35,” says Quinn, 39. “I figured I was four years late and I had to double up one year.”

He took over the lease of Local from Jeff Johnson, who still owns Local on the Square. Quinn put in a downstairs bar and plans on doing “a rebrand at some time,” but, he says, “It was already an existing business. It had been there almost 15 years, going well, made money. I didn’t have to change much at all.”

Quinn overheard Indigo’s manager and the former manager of the hotel’s restaurant/bar talking one afternoon at Local. “I heard them say they needed someone to fill the spot where 3rd & Court had been.” After looking at the place, Quinn said, “I’m sold. I can definitely do something with this.”

The manager didn’t want the new place to look like a diner, but he wanted “something retro, mid-century, ’50s, ’60s, ’70s to go along with the theme of the hotel.”

Quinn was surprised to discover the basement area, which had been The Lounge and, earlier, Memphis Sounds: “Holy shit! There’s a whole other place down there!”

Quinn, his wife Tarrah, and his brother Jason Quinn went into partnership.

Memphis Clover Club, which opened October 8th, focuses on craft cocktails, particularly gin drinks. The food is “from all over the world. Different street foods or small plates you might see Downtown in large cities where you’re grabbing a bite to eat.

“We cut our own fries and all that stuff. As much as we can, everything is from scratch. We don’t order anything in a number 10 can. We make our own sauces, all our syrups for the bar.”

They feature live music upstairs and downstairs. The decor still has “that same retro feel. Just a different color scheme, different furniture.” Quinn’s using a “burnt orange,” which he describes as “almost reminiscent of the GE appliance color,” and a turquoise “like you would have seen in the interior of a car in the ’70s.”

Quinn began working in restaurants in high school when he realized Jason, who was working at a Perkins, made more money than he did. “He was making as much on a Sunday morning as I was making in an entire week working at Blockbuster.”

He got a job waiting tables at Perkins, but a week later he began cooking.

Three years later, Quinn went to work at the old Pete & Sam’s on Appling Road and, later, at the Park location. He also worked at Molly’s La Casita, Club 152, and TJ Mulligans, where he met his wife. And he worked for a brief time for Steve Cooper at the old City Hall nightspot in Cordova. In late 2017, Johnson asked Quinn to manage Local on the Square.

Quinn took over the lease of the Downtown Local in January 2021. “A blizzard hit the week after we bought it and all the places Downtown started closing and all the water pipes started busting. We bought that thing at the worst time possible. My wife and I had to stay at a hotel for a week so we could make it to work ’cause the roads weren’t predictable.”

He spent his free time helping people whose cars were stranded in the snow and ice. “I took my four-wheeler Downtown with an axe and a shovel and pulled them out when they were stuck and handed them business cards.”

Quinn told them, “I’m the new guy at Local. Come and have a drink.”

Memphis Clover Club is at 24 N. B.B. King; Local on Main Street is at 95 S. Main.

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We Recommend We Saw You

Elvis 7s, Kevin Brooks, Cole O’Keeffe, Summer Cocktail Festival, Rooms & Relics

Michael Donahue

I’m getting a lot of mileage out of my ‘We Saw You’ business cards. This is the Nashville Rugby team at the Elvis 7s rugby tournament in Millington. This is not a new addition to the team’s uniform.

Instead of giving him the shirt – or the cape – off his back, Larry Magdovitz, dressed as The King, gave the patent leather belt that accessorized his white jumpsuit to John Elmore. That was after Elmore won first prize in the Mr. Sideburns contest at the Elvis 7s rugby tournament.

The rugby event, which has been called the unofficial start of Elvis Week, is when ruggers grow sideburns just for the tournament. They play rugby against a background of Elvis songs. This year’s tournament was held August 3rd at USA Stadium in Millington.

Players taking part in the Mr. Sideburns contest competed for the best sideburns and sang an Elvis song of their choice.

Elmore, a member of Memphis Blues Rugby Club, was the first place winner with his  burns and his rendition of “Stuck on You.”


Michael Donahue

John Elmore and Larry Magdovitz at Elvis 7s.

Michael Donahue

Justin Alden of the Memphis Blues Rugby Club came in second place in the Mr. Sideburns contest.

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Michael Donahue

My business card was a hit with Jay Etkin, but he didn’t hang it on the wall at his gallery, Jay Etkin Gallery. This was the night of the opening of Cole O’Keeffe’s art show.

Michael Donahue

Cole O’Keeffe

Jay Etkin Gallery at 942 South Cooper was packed for the August 7th opening of Cole O’Keeffe’s exhibition of works, which he titled “God is Real and Other Perceptions.”

About 120 people attended the event, where Cole also did a reading of some of his writings.

Jay says he told the audience, “What you have here in front of you is a youthful visionary.”

“What he’s doing,” Jay says, “is coming to the public – in this case – without any pretension, without any agenda. The work is raw – in a good way. It’s not fussy. It’s just what he’s in the moment of, whether written word or making a painting. There is no forethought of ‘I have to make this one way or the other.’ It’s just spontaneous and intuitive. But his value is the rawness of it.

“This is not commercial fine art. This is very raw fine art. And I’m saying this as a compliment because I’ve seen too many people who think about the market when they’re making art.”

Cole, Etkin says, puts his heart on his sleeve, which he also demonstrated in his readings. Cole “read very intimate things in front of all these people that night.”

Etklin describes Cole’s writing as “very open and very revealing and very honest.”

“God is Real and Other Perceptions” is on view through August 10th.


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Michael Donahue

Kevin Brooks on the eve of his big ‘Memphis Film Prize’ win.

So, how does Kevin Brooks feel about his second consecutive Memphis Film Prize win? A Night Out, which he co-directed with Abby Meyers, was the 2019 Memphis Film Prize winner. The $10,000 award was announced August 4th.

“I did not know it was going to come,” Brooks says. “I was surprised. I was ecstatic. I was very grateful.”

He wanted the exposure for the film. “It’s such a powerful story. And collaborating with Abby Meyers was such a beautiful thing.”

A Night Out, which stars Rosalyn R. Ross, is about a woman who goes to a nightclub to cheer herself up after a bad breakup. All the action takes place in one continuous 10-minute shot in and around Mollie Fontaine Lounge.

What’s next? “I have a feature film I’m hoping to get funding for next year. That’s my goal.

I really want to do a big film. My goal since I was six years old. Now is the time to take advantage of the resources I have in my life and the people who supported me to make this happen.”

What’s he going to do with his share of the prize money?  “Put it towards the feature, hopefully.”

And, Brooks says with a laugh, “Try not to party too hard.”

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Michael Donahue

Summer Cocktail Festival

The inaugural Summer Cocktail Festival, which was held August 2nd in Overton Square, was a success.

The event, hosted by the Memphis Flyer and Captain Morgan, was an advance sellout with 750 guests.

More than 30 spirit brands were featured along with a wide variety of custom cocktails.

Eats were provided by Second Line, Laura’s Kitchen, and Trap Fusion.

The danceable music was provided by DJ Jordan Rogers.


Michael Donahue

Patrick Kelly and Chloe Serca at Summer Cocktail Festival

Michael Donahue

Raen Browder and Jenn Tinnell at Summer Cocktails

Michael Donahue

Summer Cocktail Festival

Michael Donahue

Hotel Indigo grand opening

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“Rooms and Relics” was the theme of Hotel Indigo’s grand opening celebration, which was held August 1st. Visitors toured the hotel and its 3rd & Court diner. About 125 people, including Mayor Jim Strickland and other dignitaries, attended.

Guests dined on hors d’oeuvres from chef Ryan Trimm and listened to the music of the Stax Academy Ensemble.

Guests also took part in a “scavenger hunt;” they were asked to answer questions, including:

1. Jukebox: Name the musician on record /CD 07 on the jukebox.

2. Lobby: What year was the blue cement wall built, and what was it originally a wall for?

3. Which photographer is featured near the front desk, and what is significant about this photo gallery?

4. What is unique about rooms 834, 934, and 1034?

5. What style of restaurant is 3rd & Court?

6. What is the name of the meeting space at Hotel Indigo?

7. Which nonprofit will receive funds from this room’s reservation?

Here are the answers:

1. Otis Redding.

2. Original hotel lobby – 1963.

3. Jack Robinson. Photos from a benefit concert that took place after Dr. Martin Luther King was assassinated.

4. Amazing view of AutoZone park.

5. American diner.

6. “Court Room” because it faces Court Avenue and the hotel is near law offices.

7. Stax. Room No. 813 is dedicated to Stax and is decorated in Stax decor and posters. If someone stays in this room, the hotel will give Stax 10 percent of the revenue. A check will be presented at the end of each year.

Michael Donahue

Kevin Kane and Peter Newton Hall at ‘Rooms and Relics’

Michael Donahue

Hotel Indigo grand opening.

Michael Donahue

‘Rooms and Relics’

Michael Donahue

Rooms & Relics

                                          WE SAW YOU AROUND TOWN

Michael Donahue

Michael Donahue

Brian Taylor from Austin, Texas tries his first Rendezvous ribs on his first trip to Memphis.

Michael Donahue

Allyson Blair and Paulette Regan at Global Cafe.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

3rd & Court Now Open

On the wall of the newly opened 3rd & Court, near Court Square Downtown, is a cluster of throwback recipes serving as wallpaper. The recipes call back a yesteryear replete with Jell-O salads and dishes involving Dr. Pepper as a key ingredient. One head-scratcher calls for condensed milk, peas, corn, and salmon.

On another wall hangs various antique kitchen tools, such as spatulas and hand beaters and others of unknown purpose.

There is a long white counter at the back, lined with stools topped in orange vinyl that, of course, spin. Booths in avocado green line a window. Toward the left is a dedicated lounge area with a bar and with seating, in the same green, surrounding coffee tables.

Indeed, the whole look, created by Ann Parker of Parker Design Studio, brings to mind the good (and some could reasonably argue, bad) old days, when folks dressed up for airplane flights and mom and dad and Susie and Biff took long road trips across the newly created interstate highway system.

When Ryan Trimm and his associates of Across the Board Hospitality Group were approached by Hotel Indigo, he says his first thought was “diner.” He thought about the hotel and about traveling and his own trips when he was a kid. He says he wanted a place where the food was recognizable and comforting — a burger, a steak. He pictured a Betty Draper type sitting in the lounge, shaking off a long day of being stuck in the car with squabbling kids, and slowly sipping on a martini and snacking on finger foods.

To bring his vision to light, he enlisted Shelby Kight as the head chef. “I talked to her,” recalls Trimm. “What do we want to do? How do we want to do it? I gave her some ideas of the theme, the period. And then she just ran with it.”

On that menu are the burger (two patties, American cheese) — one of the diner’s big sellers — and a steak (it’s hanger steak with a coffee rub and mole butter). There’s a pork belly Reuben sandwich and Beast Loaf, made with cow, lamb, and bison.

Photographs by Justin Fox Burks

3rd & Court also offers a meat-and-two special of the day, which includes the Beast Loaf (Mondays); a smothered pork chop (Tuesdays); and Fried Chicken (Wednesdays). Sides include collard greens, mac and cheese, mashed potatoes, roasted tomato slaw, and farm peas.

Breakfast is served, starting at 6:30 a.m., seven days a week. The menu features treats like a pound cake French toast (!), house donuts, and the Sophisticated Grain Bowl made with quinoa. In addition, they’re slinging such classics as an omelette plate, Egg-in-a-Hole, and Chicken Hash, which comes with two eggs (sunny side up) and potatoes.

Kight says she worked hard to keep to the diner aesthetic, but she also wanted more elevated dishes than your typical diner fare.

“I said, let’s put a twist on it and see what we can do,” she says.

For the Osso Bucco, which comes with polenta and collard greens, she braised the polenta and fried the collard greens. With the Beast Loaf, she coats the meat with a Korean chili paste and a chili sauce for an added bit of flavor.

The lounge menu — made up of things that don’t require a proper table setting — was designed to be eaten from the coffee table. There are meatball sliders and lobster rolls. The deviled eggs come with roasted poblano, cilantro, cotija, and radish. There are Gochujang-glazed lamb ribs made grilled-to-order with peanuts and pickled red onions. But the absolute genius move here may be the pimento cheese ball, which is pimento cheese rolled into a ball and served with pepper jam and fire crackers — a true throwback if there ever was one.

Of course, any diner has got to serve up pie. 3rd & Court has a trio of offerings, including coconut cream pie, bourbon chocolate pie, and strawberry mile-high pie. Trimm insisted on the latter. It’s fresh strawberries covered in a strawberry glaze and drizzled in balsamic vinegar, nestled in a house-made pie crust.

3rd & Court, 24 S. B.B. King Blvd.,
290-8484