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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Made to Order

Not long after Jim Matson of Juicy Jim’s Pizzeria began making pizza, he received a letter from his landlord instructing him to stop. The Domino’s next door on Highland apparently had a contract with a non-compete clause for the two-bay structure. Thereafter, Matson focused on his signature cheese steaks and hoagies.

But the native New Jerseyan was not giving up on pies. When Double Deuce, just across Highland, closed last year, Matson jumped at the opportunity to open a pizzeria — a mere 50 yards from Domino’s.

While his decision to open a pizzeria so close to Domino’s might be construed as cheeky, it certainly isn’t hostile. Matson has been interested in serving pizzas and authentic Italian dishes since he was a young boy in New Jersey, working at a cheese steak and pizza joint called Greasy Tony’s. “I was cooking. I learned how to make all his food: pizzas, cheese steaks, hoagies. And in here, I’m doing pasta meals, which I learned from Tony’s mother.”

Everything is made-to-order, including the pizzas. “I make the dough; I shred the cheese; I make the gravy,” Matson says. “It’s like a designer pie, but they’re not overpriced.”

Matson also proudly notes his authentic garlic bread with real butter and garlic, pastas with red-wine shrimp sauce or white clam sauce, and stuffed shells. You can build your own stromboli from an extensive list of ingredients, including homemade meatballs (again from Tony’s mother), Italian sausage, spinach, fresh garlic, and a number of different meat and vegetable toppings. Meat lovers should check out Matson’s meat-stuffed pie, which is a ham, sausage, pepperoni, steak, and chicken pizza with a crust on top, basted in oil and garlic and topped with more cheese.

Matson envisions the pizzeria as a family place until 9 p.m., when the bar becomes 21 and up. They have Fat Tire, Yazoo, Dos Equis, and Ghost River on tap, as well as a number of bottled domestics and imports. A pool table, two jukeboxes, and a pinball machine make this a perfect casual spot for nearby university students and local families. Juicy Jim’s is open every day from 11 a.m. to 3 a.m. and offers delivery within a certain range.

Juicy Jim’s Pizzeria, 551 S. Highland (435-6243)

Mourners for the late El Chico off Poplar near Highland will be interested to see how La Hacienda fares in the same space. La Hacienda, which also has locations in Bartlett and Cordova, is one of at least four restaurants in the vicinity serving standard Mexican fare at reasonable prices. Expect a wide variety of menu options and combinations and a fair number of vegetarian dishes. Not much has changed in the way of décor, so if you’ve been missing the old El Chico hangout, go grab a margarita and drown your sorrows in your favorite booth.

La Hacienda is open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and from 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. Head in for a different happy hour special every day until 8:30 p.m.

La Hacienda, 3491 Poplar (452-9848)

Humdingers has opened a second location at 1134 North Germantown Parkway in Cordova. The unique South African cuisine has been a hit for the locally owned restaurant, offering a variety of chicken, fish, and shrimp dishes with a range of sauces. Their signature spice comes from the very hot piri piri chili pepper native to southern Africa, but they also serve milder dishes for more sensitive palates.

The new Humdingers location is still working on procuring a beer and liquor license, but they’re already cranking out local favorites like grilled fish and piri piri chicken. And like the original location at Poplar and Massey, the second store has an open kitchen where you can watch as your dish is prepared. Humdingers is open every day from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Humdingers, 1134 N. Germantown Pkwy. (271-2912)

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Rated G

Today “kid’s meal” is synonymous with chicken fingers and French fries. I’m sure there are parents of picky eaters who appreciate this, but I do not. I take my kids out to eat so that they can try new things, including a vegetable or two.

More often than not, I order from the appetizer menu or have my two boys (ages 5 and 7) split an entrée or share with me or their dad. However, there are a few restaurants serving kid’s meals that are worth trying.

Sekisui (multiple locations)

There’s not a chicken nugget or a French fry to be found at Sekisui. They offer three choices for kids: chicken teriyaki, shrimp and vegetable tempura, and a sushi combination (California roll, shrimp nigiri, and crab nigiri). The first two meals come with steamed rice, and all three come with a choice of clear soup, miso soup, or house salad. What I like best about these offerings is the presentation and the feeling of excitement my kids get from having their own fancy dinner. The portions are hearty, and each costs just $6.95.

Sekisui’s Humphreys location features a “Crazy Hibachi.” Younger kids may be a bit scared of the live cooking demo that is standard with hibachi dinners, but older kids love the fire and knife twirling as much as they love the food. For the same $6.95, Crazy Hibachi offers a chicken or shrimp hibachi meal complete with soup or salad, rice, and vegetables.

Soul Fish, 862 S. Cooper (725-0722)

Soul Fish is always teeming with people, many of whom are under age 10. For $4.50, “Little Fishers” get a choice of a catfish basket, chicken tenders, grilled cheese, peanut butter and jelly, or ham and cheese sandwich. Each comes with fries, but you can substitute a nice variety of vegetables listed on the chalkboard (mashed potatoes, black eyed peas, green beans, broccoli, etc.). Of course, kids who can read (or see across to the next table) will be hard pressed to pass up the French fries, especially since they are extra crispy and delicious at Soul Fish. My advice: Get an extra order of vegetables to go along with the meal.

Dan McGuinness, 4698 Spotswood (761-3711)

Who would have thought that an Irish pub would have a great kid’s meal? Dan McGuinness offers the largest kid’s meal portion with the most choices of sides than any other restaurant I’ve been to. Two kids could easily split one meal, which includes dessert. Total cost: $4.95.

There’s chicken tenders but also grilled chicken, grilled cheese, a peanut butter and banana sandwich, and corn-dog nuggets. The last kid’s menu item is a veggie plate, and I salute the parent who can get their child to eat it. All of the kids’ selections come with two side items, so there’s ample opportunity to include one or two of the restaurant’s many vegetables.

Dan McGuinness has built in a reward for eating all of these vegetables: ice cream. Kids are presented with a giant bowl of ice cream and given free rein of a small bucket with syrups and toppings.

Humdingers, 6300 Poplar (260-8292)

Humdingers has a healthy vibe to it and has pretty impressive choices for kids. The servings are not huge but big enough to fill kids up. Each meal includes a juice box, one side, and a cookie for a very low price of $3.99.

The meat choices are crispy shrimp, chicken tenders, grilled chicken breast, or crispy fish nuggets. Grilling is Humdingers’ specialty, so the grilled chicken breast is the way to go. Sides include grilled zuchini strips, grilled asparagus, sweet potato fries, seasoned fries, Asian cole slaw, black bean and corn salsa, chilled and marinated broccoli, and a side salad. The veggies at Humdingers are fresh and crispy and pretty easy to push on the kids. Additionally, fries seem to be a less popular item among Humdingers’ health-conscious clientele, so kids aren’t likely to miss them.