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Letter From The Editor Opinion

This Sucks

Bruce VanWyngarden has gone fishing this week. His column returns when he does.

A few years ago, I was having lunch with a coworker who proceeded to go on a long and sort of crazy rant about how much she hates it when restaurants bundle their straws with silverware. After that, when someone complained bitterly about something of no consequence, “straws” became a sort of shorthand dismissal.

So where do we stand, Memphis, on plastic straws? Is this as an issue “straws”?

Bianca Phillips

As a single-use plastic, plastic straws are pretty bad. Millions and millions of plastic straws are used each day in America and then tossed out to litter our lands and shores. Some cities, like Malibu and Washington, D.C., have already banned them. In New York and Hawaii, legislation is pending.

In Memphis, we’re seeing more and more restaurants abandoning the plastic straw.

Janet Boscarino, executive director of Clean Memphis, which oversees Project Green Fork, estimates that about half of Project Green Fork members (about 40 restaurants) have given up plastic straws. But, as of now, Project Green Fork does not include anything about straws in their “6 Steps to Certification” for local restaurants.

“We certainly push for the elimination of single-use plastics, which straws would fall into that category,” Boscarino says.

For Earth Day, Project Green Fork did a program they called “Don’t Suck,” which highlighted recyclable options for straws, including paper and bamboo. “We are certainly trying to raise awareness around eliminating [straws],” she says.

For Boscarino, straws are just once piece of the puzzle in reducing food waste — from bags to food containers to the food itself.

Deni Reilly, owner of Majestic Grille with her husband Patrick, says that restaurant has been straws-by-request since it opened 14 years ago. They only began to use coated paper straws about two years ago. (They go through 12,000 to 14,000 straws in a month.)

Reilly says they’ve always leaned toward being environmentally conscious. They don’t provide water, except for large parties. Their to-go glasses are biodegradable.

She says with a laugh that they do it for the sea turtles.

Octavia Young, the owner of Midtown Crossing Grill, began backing away from straws in 2016 about a year after she opened. She says she was thinking about joining Project Green Fork and started looking at what she could do. She then put up a sign: “Straws are a one-time use item that never biodegrade. Your server will only provide straws upon request in an effort to reduce our footprint. Thank you.”

Young says reaction was mixed, but ultimately, no one can argue, because as the sign says, if they want a straw, all they have to do is ask.

“Hearing about how much [waste] a restaurant produces and actually looking at it for myself, I wanted to be a better neighbor in the community that we serve,” she says.

Scott Tashie has been thinking about straws a lot lately. Tashie is owner of City Silo and three area I Love Juice Bars.

“It’s something we’ve been trying to come up with a solution on for a while, actually,” he says. “And it’s super challenging. Obviously, when you’re in a beverage-heavy business, you want to always take care of your customers, and we’ve tried different options. It’s been challenging to find something that actually works.”

At one point, Tashie was using glass straws, but then his source stopped making them. He tried a bring-your-own straw approach, too. He admits that a straw is not something that’s particularly easy to carry on you, like a reusable bag.

Tashie has been experimenting with different types of straws. Forgoing them completely won’t work because of the smoothies he sells. He recently settled on corn straws that he hooked up with through his association with Malco. (He has family ties to the movie theater chain). Malco is currently working to get corn straws at all of its theaters.

Tashie doesn’t mind the extra cost of the straws. For him, it’s worth it. “There’s only one Earth,” he says. “You can’t really put a price on it.”

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

I Love Juice to Open in TN Brewery

The folks behind Memphis’ I Love Juice Bar announced yesterday that a third location will open in the Tennessee Brewery in spring 2018.

From the release:

I Love Juice Bar will open its third, Memphis-area location in Downtown Memphis in the Tennessee Brewery’s Bottle Shop at 500 Tennessee Street, Suite 166. With a projected opening of Spring 2018, I Love Juice Bar Downtown will continue to focus on the healthy eats, juices, smoothies, coffee, and wellness shots served at its popular restaurants in Midtown and Crosstown.

“Whenever we pick a new I Love Juice Bar location, it’s really important that we feel a synergy with the neighborhood. We aren’t just opening a restaurant; we are creating a new community space for neighbors to meet, connect, and enjoy our city.” says Scott Tashie, owner of I Love Juice Bar and City Silo Table + Pantry in East Memphis.

Rebekah Tashie, owner of I Love Juice Bar and City Silo Table + Pantry, continues, “The Tennessee Brewery’s forward-thinking, community minded vision made perfect sense for our third Memphis location, and we are extremely excited to be affiliated with this venture.”

At 867 square feet, I Love Juice Bar Downtown will offer both indoor and outdoor seating, as well as convenient grab and go. Customers can expect the signature I Love Juice Bar experience – fresh juices, great music, warm environment – but tailored to fit the needs of the downtown community.

“The I Love Juice Bar concept of convenient, delicious, and healthy food is exactly what our future tenants and neighbors want,” says Benjamin Orgel of Slovis and Associates. They are looking to grab quick bites on their way out the door, returning from a workout, or during a fast lunch break – I Love Juice Bar is the ideal tenant we envisioned filling this space.”

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Now open in Crosstown Concourse: French Truck and I Love Juice Bar

For a while there, the running joke was that Geoffrey Meeker‘s laundry smelled like coffee.

That’s because the former chef was determined to roast the perfect coffee bean with a five-pound roaster that he operated in his laundry room.

And that is how French Truck Coffee was born.

Based out of New Orleans, the coffee roaster and shop holds itself to high standards — sourcing its beans directly from farmers around the world, delivering the freshest roast possible, and pulling the perfect espresso every time.

“The highest standard for Geoff is Blue Bottle Coffee,” says Memphis French Truck partner Jimmy Lewis.

Ah, Blue Bottle Coffee. I have stood in line in Williamsburg. It was pretty darn good, even if there was a dizzying amount of beards and tattoos and scarves.

Lewis came into the picture just over a year ago once he saw the potential for growth of his coffee roasting business, Relevant Roasters.

After several conversations with Geoff, the two created a partnership, and a Memphis French Truck Coffee was born.

“I recognized I needed help and that I wouldn’t, couldn’t, and shouldn’t do this alone,” Lewis says.

Recently Lewis and Meeker have expanded from their original location on Tillman, the former Relevant Roasters shop and roastery, into the Crosstown Concourse building.

Situated in the central atrium of Concourse, the shop offers one of the most interesting people-watching opportunities in the city.

They also offer a tasty menu. The Waffle Sandwich with egg, prosciutto, and goat cheese is sensational ($9), and their avocado toast rivals any in the city, with red pepper and pickled red onion (one $6/two $9). They have a variety of toasts, actually, including B.N.B. — that would be bacon, Nutella, and basil (what?!), bacon date — bacon, date, ricotta, and pistachio crumbles, and other savory and sweet choices.

They import their pastries from Porcellino’s and have some specialty fizzy teas they can whip up for you.

For now, food is offered until 2 p.m. Hours will expand, but first they hope to remodel their Tillman location from a roastery and cafe into just a cafe where they will offer a similar menu, making the Concourse location the primary Memphis roaster.

So far, there are six French Truck Coffee locations — two in Memphis, three in New Orleans, and one in Baton Rouge.

Look out, Blue Bottle.

French Truck Coffee, 1350 Concourse, 878-3383. Open Mon.-Fri. 7 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Sat.-Sun. 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. 584 Tillman, 458-5599. Open Mon.-Thurs., 7 a.m. to 1 p.m., Fri. 7 a.m. to 4 p.m., Sat. 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., and Sun. 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. frenchtruckcoffee.com.

Part of the core mission of the Crosstown Concourse concept is to provide an environment of health to its residents and visitors, with gyms and many medical businesses setting up shop in the monolithic structure on Cleveland.

So it makes sense for I Love Juice Bar to join the party.

“I talked to them a long time ago, before the whole project here got started,” says Memphis I Love Juice Bar owner Scott Tashie. “I’ve always liked the old buildings here, and I took notice and interest in the building.”

The juice, smoothie, and wellness shop will host the opening of its second location in the Concourse building, along with the block party the project is hosting for its grand debut to the community, this Saturday, August 19th.

The first Memphis I Love Juice Bar opened in September 2015, bringing a menu of fresh and organic juices, wellness shots, smoothies, and clean grab-and-go foods to Midtown on Cooper.

Tashie also ran Cosmic Coconut, a similar concept on Sanderlin by the Racquet Club, which he recently reimagined as City Silo Table and Pantry, a restaurant concept offering most of the same smoothies and juices, but with an expanded menu of tasty breakfast, lunch, and dinner dishes.

“This location will be like the Midtown one, but with a few different grab-and-go items and some new, really neat products like bars and snacks,” Tashie says. “We will have a fully stocked grab-and-go section with quick juices you can grab, spring rolls, sandwiches, our Pad Thai bowls, and we make it all here.”

The 800-plus square-foot space will offer some indoor seating as well as open onto the block-long “patio” of Crosstown Concourse.

“It’s been a lot of fun working with the concept here with the columns inside the space, and we designed these special wooden doors to slide in when we are closed,” Tashie says.

Folks can enter either from outdoors via the patio or from inside the building.

Tashie says he’s excited to be a part of the Crosstown Concourse vision.

“It has been cool to watch this take place, and it will be interesting to watch everyone come in and out,” Tashie says.

He also thinks his product has something to offer the space.

“We have a community feel at our shop in Midtown, and it will carry over here,” Tashie says.

I Love Juice Bar, 1350 Concourse. Open 7 a.m. to 7 p.m., seven days a week. ilovejuicebar.com.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Guess Where I’m Eating Contest 96

You know this logo? 

The first person to correctly ID where I’m eating wins a fabulous prize. 

To enter, submit your answer to me via email at ellis@memphisflyer.com.

The answer to GWIE 95 is the Berry Good smoothie at the I Love Juice Bar, and the winner is … Sarah Cummings!

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Chewing Over the Food News of 2015

In looking over 2015, one thing stood out: brand expansion. Aldo’s Pizza Pies, with its swell rooftop patio, and City Market (grab and go!) came to Cooper-Young. Fino’s opened a second restaurant in East Memphis (yay sandwiches!), and Mediterranean mainstay Casablanca returned to Midtown. Both Bedrock Eats & Sweets, the paleo eatery, and the all-vegan Pink Diva Cupcakery and Cuisine got places to call their own.

Justin Fox Burks

Bedrock Eats & Sweets

Ermyias Shiberou, owner of Stickem food truck, opened Blue Nile Ethiopian Kitchen on Madison in Midtown, next to the Bar-B-Q Shop. Stickem’s awesome kabobs are on the menu, and the lentil sandwich is terrific. Reverb Coffee got into the food-truck game, and Relevant Roasters opened its own coffee bar. Tamp & Tap Triad was unveiled in East Memphis.

Justin Fox Burks

Blue Nile Ethiopian Kitchen

Last year, all the action was in Overton Square. This year, one could argue, it’s South Main. The new location of Rizzo’s, after much delay, opened in March. Don’t worry, the Lobster Pronto Pups are still on the menu. The great and always-packed Maciel’s offers downtowners tacos, tortas, and more. South Main Sushi & Grill took over the Grawemeyer’s space, and there’s Ray’z World Famous Dr. Bar-b-que a few blocks north. The hipsteriffic 387 Pantry is a small, curated market with locally sourced goods like Dr. Bean’s coffee and Hanna Farm grits and cornmeal.

Justin Fox Burks

Ray’z World Famous Dr. Bar-b-que

Also new to downtown is the build-your-own tacos and burritos and nachos joint Burrito Blues (mmmm, nachos) and the Cuban and Mexican restaurant Sabrosura (try the Cuban sandwich). Jeff Johnson’s latest venture Agave Maria, with its masterful decor and endless tequila menu, opened on Union. Recommendation: the cheesy mushroom and poblano enchilada. In April, Bass Pro finally opened in the Pyramid. Uncle Buck’s, the underwater-themed restaurant with a bowling alley, offers a little something for everyone. Up top, the Lookout has one of the best views in the city.

Germantown got all the grocery stores. There’s the 1,000,000-square-foot Kroger that opened. (Actually, it’s only 100,000 square feet, but to put it in perspective, the Union Kroger is 36,000 square feet). It has a juice bar and a Corky’s BBQ kiosk. The healthy-food-at-a-discount grocer, Sprouts, after opening Lakeland, introduced its second store in Germantown. Whole Foods opened its second Memphis-area store in Germantown, too. It features a charcuterie cave, a fresh pasta station, made-fresh savory and sweet crepes, and Korean street food from Kei Jei Kitchens. (I think about the steamed bao sliders all the time.) And, in September, there was news, which seems completely unfair depending on your zip code, that the first area Trader Joe’s would open in Germantown sometime in 2016.

Breakfast for dinner? Breakfast for lunch? Breakfast for breakfast? Whenever! Another Broken Egg, a chain, opened in East Memphis. Order one of their scrambled skillets and their beignet biscuits and you’ll feel like you’ve been hit by a bus, but in the best way possible. Also in the breakfast-whenever game is the colorful, pancake-centric Staks. You can even make your own pancakes, if you’re so inclined. They also offer soups, salads, and sandwiches (including the Memphis Hot Brown).

And, and, and … There’s Mac’s Burgers with a menu filled with gourmet mac-and-cheese and burgers. Coffeehouse/gift shop City & State opened on Broad. 3 Angels Diner made way for Maximo’s on Broad. Encore Cafe offers wraps, smoothies, and salads, plus a place for Cozy Corner while it gets its building ready. Crazy Italians is owned by real-live Italians and features a menu of affordable, classic dishes like spaghetti alla carbonara. I Love Juice Bar features juices, smoothies, and essential oil shots. Mardi Gras, in Crosstown, has gotten great word-of-mouth for its Cajun fare. Diners can tour the U.S.A. at Heritage Tavern & Kitchen, which has a menu of regional favorites. Healthy, tastefully done meals are Julles Posh Food‘s focus. Ditto for LYFE Kitchen, where there’s no fryer, and it’s not missed at all.

Finally, two words: Cheesecake Factory.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Now Open: Mardi Gras and I Love Juice Bar

One problem with dining out in 21st-century America is that we don’t feel connected to our food. A plate of picture-perfect avocado toast with fried egg and cracked pepper lands on the table in front of us. But who grew it? Who cooked it? For all we know, it may have come from outer space.

Happily, the pendulum has begun to swing in the other direction. In Midtown, two new restaurants focus on reconnecting Memphians with (respectively) their neighborhoods and their bodies, and this food writer is happy to recommend them.

The first is Mardi Gras Memphis, just across the street from Crosstown Concourse. This comfy Cajun restaurant is owned and run by Penny Henderson and her large, extended family. Walk through the front door, and you may feel as though you’ve just married in.

“In South Louisiana, we celebrate everything with food,” explains Henderson, with a wry smile. “If you put up a ceiling fan, everybody’s coming over for gumbo.”

Originally from Lake Charles, Louisiana, Henderson moved to Memphis last year for work. (By training, she is an addictions therapist.) In March, she made a pot of gumbo for an office party, a casual move that turned out to be serendipitous. Her coworkers licked their bowls, and by June, she had opened a restaurant.

“Seven weeks ago, we had not cooked for anybody but our families,” Henderson confesses. “We didn’t know anything about anything. We just jumped in.”

Taste Henderson’s Crawfish Corn Chowder ($4.95), and you’ll be glad she did. It boasts a near-perfect balance of sweet and savory, with a full-bodied corn flavor that’s as rich and deep as a Louisiana sunset.

Henderson says she learned to cook for her five kids, cobbling together recipes from friends, family, and fellow churchgoers.

“There’s a huge reward in seeing people get better, live better, feel better,” Henderson reflects. “And that’s the same feeling I get when I cook for people. For me, it’s about sharing. It’s about fellowship.”

The other stand-out menu item is the Étouffée Stuffed Po’boy ($10.49). It starts with the bread — French rolls from Gambino’s Bakery in New Orleans — which has been flash-fried for extra crispiness. Then it’s sliced, scooped, and loaded up with Henderson’s signature étouffée, expertly prepared from a gorgeous, dark-brown roux. The crisp crunch, the hearty stew — this is the kind of food that warms you up inside.

Justin Fox Burks

Scott Tashie had a come-to-Jesus moment and opened a juice bar.

Every hard-core juice fan has a come-to-Jesus moment. For Scott Tashie, it happened on Manhattan Beach, outside of Los Angeles. At the time, Tashie was a professional golfer playing in the Long Beach Open. Then a friend handed him a glass of green juice, and his life changed forever. Describing the experience, his voice drops to a reverential whisper.

“It was so … fresh,” Tashie recalls. “But it also had the flavor to it! I just couldn’t believe it. I knew I had to have this stuff in my life.”

The day he flew home to Memphis, Tashie acquired a Breville juicer, and the rest is history. In 2012, he bought the Cosmic Coconut, a vegetarian café in East Memphis. A couple of weeks ago, he opened I Love Juice Bar, a juice bar in Cooper-Young.

Why juice? For Tashie, it’s more than fresh flavors. It’s a way to eat healthy that also happens to be affordable and quick.

“I had my juice this morning,” Tashie recalls, “and I was thinking. There’s a cup and a half of kale in here. There are two stalks of celery, a whole carrot, and an apple. It’s ready in a few minutes, and you can take it in the car with you. That’s pretty good!”

I should confess: Before last week, I was leery of green juice. Because if God had meant for us to drink vegetables, he would have made them taste like oranges. Right?

Wrong. After some hemming and hawing, I agreed to taste the Ginger Greens Juice ($5.50), and I have to tell you: It’s delicious. Made with ginger, apple, kale, spinach, cucumber, parsley, and lemon, it’s like a big wallop of happiness — sweet and spicy and bright green. Try it, and you just might have your own come-to-Jesus moment.

I Love Juice Bar serves a lineup of grab-and-go food items, including Quinoa Kale Salad ($4.50) and Spring Rolls ($5.95). Enjoy one in their trendy café space, or pick it up at a festival. The “Green Machine” is a lime-green 1979 Volkswagen van that functions as a food truck, bringing Tashie’s gospel of juice to the heathen hordes.