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Jerry’s Sno Cones to Close Berclair Location

Jerry’s Sno Cones will close its original location in the Berclair/Nutbush area. 

The iconic Memphis establishment announced the move on Facebook Wednesday afternoon. They gave no reason for the closing. But they said the Jerry’s location at 1601 Bonnie Lane in Cordova is open. 

Jerry’s Sno Cone’s via Facebook

“We are grateful for the past memories and are looking forward to new family memories at our Cordova location,” the owners said in the post. “We will be voting soon on a new location. God loves you and so does Jerry’s Sno Cones!”

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Cover Feature News

Summer in the City: From Cold Beer and Sweet Treats to Kayaks and Museums — Make the Most of the Season

Welcome to summertime in Memphis, Tennessee. It’s hot. It’s humid. The unforgiving sun is shining like a diamond. But the city’s opening back up in ways we only could have dreamed of this time last year. Whether outdoors or in, there’s fun to be had — and ways to cool down. Snow cones, refreshing cocktails, canoeing, swimming, and more await to make this summer the best one yet.

Assignment: Drink Beer

Summer is for beer. Cold ones are just better on hot days. That’s science.

The pandemic kept us on the porch for much of the summer 2020 beer-drinking season. Those annual traditions — like cookouts, concerts, and baseball games — all easily melted behind daily worries of a cruel illness that took so much more than just our summertime fun time.

For most, COVID-19 worries have now melted and those summer traditions have priority seating. We know what we missed last year, and we now know just how important that fun stuff — like drinking summer beers with your friends — really is.

To ensure you don’t regret missing a moment this summer, here is your Memphis summertime, beer-drinking assignment sheet.

Enjoy a cold one to take the edge off during an inning at AutoZone Park. (Photo: Courtesy of AutoZone Park / Facebook)

1. Drink light beer at AutoZone Park.

Beer and baseball is the winningest combo since pork shoulder and dry rub. Let’s face it, they belong together.

You absolutely can grab an IPA (and probably other styles) at the park. But the magic of the park and the game is really made with a light American lager, like Miller Lite. It’s simple, dependable, and when it’s served ice-cold in a big plastic cup — don’t ask me how it works but — the summer spell is cast.

2. Drink a fruity sour beer watching an outdoor concert.

Drinking to livestreams in your pajamas cannot compare to dancing to live music in your bare feet. We’re back at it this year with tons of live music events guaranteed to be packed and to boogie-oogie-oogie you from your socially distanced funk-ola.

Fruity sours are summer-perfect. They’re different, light, sweet, sometimes mouth-puckeringly tart, but predictably transportive. Like dancing in a crowd in 2021, sours will make you say, “Whoa. This is different. But I like it.”

3. Drink an epic hazy IPA at your favorite taproom.

Your favorite brewery’s taproom was closed last year. You couldn’t try the crazy beer with the crazy name that would never make it to grocery-store shelves.

Now that you can, you may not know that the national haze craze — the wave of hazy IPAs — has pooled securely in Memphis breweries. Call me a hazy boi all you like, but these beers are great.

They’re soft and sometimes sweet. Here, they show off the real creativity of Memphis brewers, the diversity of flavors these talented folks can concoct from one style.

Show up and order the hazy. Then you’ll know what’s up with a trendy beer that’s crazy-Instagrammable. (Shoot your glass with the sun behind it. And your local brewery will thank you.) — Toby Sells

Make your backyard the perfect home for more than just rubber duckies —
no need to mow your lawn. (Photo: Bruce VanWyngarden)

Create a Yard for Wildlife

Tired of mowing and maintaining a lawn? I was, too. That’s why, a few years back, my wife and I began transforming our Midtown backyard into a natural habitat that attracts birds, hummingbirds, butterflies, bees, and other pollinators. By using native and easy-to-care-for perennials, our main chore each year is to cut them back in the spring, fertilize them, and watch them grow and blossom. And as a bonus, it’s beautiful.

Our native black and blue salvia flowers, butterfly bushes, bee balm plants, daylilies, lantana, orpine, and even basil and thyme flowers attract hummingbirds better than our feeders do, though we have a couple of those, as well. The flowers also bring in bees and butterflies of every variety throughout the summer and fall. We keep a bird feeder filled with seeds year-round, which keeps the cardinals and finches nesting nearby.

The National Wildlife Federation (NWF) offers guidelines for making your yard a sustainable environment. The five keys are: food (plants and feeders that provide nectar, seeds, nuts, fruits, berries, foliage, pollen, and insects); water (birdbaths or other sources); cover (bushes, trees, and tall grasses); places to raise young (ditto the bushes, trees, and tall grasses); and sustainable gardening practices (no chemicals). If you’re into that sort of thing, you can apply to the NWF for a sign to put in your yard when you think you qualify.

We don’t have an official sign, but by midsummer our backyard is filled with life and beauty that brings us enjoyment throughout the day. By July, our fig tree is an all-day party. (Pecking order: blue jays, robins, cardinals, then assorted little guys and squirrels.) We have thrilling aerial “battles” between bumblebees, hummingbirds, and dragonflies as they jockey for position on the blooms. And our butterfly variety is second to none.

Sound good? Get started today. Dig up your lawn, start planting flowers and bushes, and just say no mow. — Bruce VanWyngarden

Say hello to ice cream in a cocktail: Global Cafe’s Peaches and Cream. (Photo: Samuel X. Cicci)

Beat the Heat With Sweet Summer Treats

Where I come from, humidity doesn’t exist. So it’s understandable that this former desert-dweller constantly needs a way to stave off all that excess water vapor when the Memphis summertime rolls in with its 90-plus-degree temperatures. Luckily, there are plenty of ways to temper the heat wave, and many of them just so happen to come out of Memphis’ booming food scene. Here are just a few ways to keep it cool while the sun is shining.

For something a little different from your standard ice cream cone, hop out to Cordova or East Memphis for a refreshing take on the sweet confection. Poke World serves up rolled ice cream, a dessert originating from Thailand. A regular ice cream base is poured over a freezing stainless steel surface and, once solidified, scraped off and formed into thin rolls. It’s both novelty and familiarity all at once, rounded out with other sweet toppings. Celebrate the season with the Summer Love, covered in bananas, strawberries, and whipped cream.

Down Summer Avenue (or one of its other four locations), Memphis’ very own paleteria always comes through in a pinch. La Michoacana serves up paletas, a popsicle derivation originating from Mexico. But these popsicles pack an extra punch that’s a cut above the usual frozen sugar water. Paletas are usually made from fresh fruits like mangos and strawberries or from creamier ingredients like chocolate. The bright, swirly combinations of fruity goodness will have your head spinning with brain freeze because it’s just so good. Devour at your own peril, but no one leaves La Michoacana unsatisfied.

But if a little more zing is needed in a dessert, just head on over to Global Cafe and let Juan work his magic behind the bar. The food hall’s cocktails always pack a punch, but go with this year’s seasonal drink, the Peaches and Cream. It comes as advertised, fresh California yellow peaches pureed into silver rum and topped with whipped cream. It’s basically ice cream in a cocktail format, and all the better for it. I stopped at one, but the urge to grab several more sits right there, dangerous and tantalizing.

These sweets are best in moderation, saved for a truly hot summer day. But there’s plenty more out there, of perhaps the Jerry’s or MEMPops variety, so get to exploring. — Samuel X. Cicci

Do you feel your temperature rising? Cool off with “King of Karate.” (Photo: Courtesy of Elvis Presley’s Graceland)

Day at the Museum

It’s a sidewalk sizzling Memphis summer, and after a year-plus of social distancing and livestreaming digital events, I’m ready to resume one of my favorite air-conditioned(!) pastimes — strolling leisurely through one of the Bluff City’s museums.

With recently debuted and soon-to-open exhibits at many of the museums in question, one would be hard-pressed to find a better time to take in some fine art, history, or pop culture.

The Memphis Brooks Museum of Art in Overton Park has too many exhibits to give a full accounting here, but “Persevere and Resist: The Strong Black Women of Elizabeth Catlett” and “Memphis Artists In Real Time” are two worth a closer look. Opening later this month is “Eggleston: The Louisiana Project” featuring work by Memphis photographer William Eggleston.

Over at the Memphis Museum of Science & History (MoSH for short, though old-timers might know it as the Pink Palace), museum marketing manager Bill Walsh says, “Our ‘Machine Inside: Biomechanics’ exhibit and Sea Lions: Life by A Whisker giant screen movie make MoSH the perfect place to cool off this summer and explore science, history, and nature.”

Meanwhile, further east, the Dixon, with its gardens and museum galleries, offers an equilibrium between indoor and outdoor activities. “We love to offer ways for visitors to beat the heat,” says Chantal Drake. “Cooling off in the museum is an enjoyable and educational way to get out of the heat. Summer exhibitions at the Dixon Gallery & Gardens highlight local artists, a centenarian artist, and our founders, Margaret and Hugo Dixon.

“Although it’s summer in Memphis,” she continues, “the shady spots in the garden are perfect for a picnic where visitors can top it off with gelato from Zio Matto at Food Truck Fridays.”

Meanwhile, at Elvis Presley’s Graceland, David Beckwith says, “Graceland officially kicks off the summer with the All-American 4th of July Weekend. The two-day event will include concerts, parties, a barbecue, a gospel brunch, special tours, and more, all capped off with an Elvis-themed fireworks spectacular.”

That’s just the tip of the hunka, hunka iceberg, though. The “Inside the Walt Disney Archives” exhibition, which opens July 23rd, celebrates the legacy of the Walt Disney Company archives, with behind-the-scenes access never before granted to the public. Currently open is the “King of Karate” exhibit. Included in the pop-up exhibit’s collection will be Presley’s personal karate gis, his seventh- and eighth-degree black belt certificates, and the original handwritten script for his 1974 karate documentary, The New Gladiators.

Stax Museum would like to share its “Solid Gold Soul” with you. (Photo: Jesse Davis)

Finally, at Stax, they’re celebrating their archives with “Solid Gold Soul: The Best of the Rest from the Stax Museum,” which opens Friday, July 16th. “‘Solid Gold Soul’ showcases the museum staff’s favorite objects that are not part of the permanent exhibits and, with the exception of Isaac Hayes’ office desk and chair, all items are on display for the first time,” says Stax’s Jeff Kollath. “Highlights include rare photographs of the Bar-Kays, Otis Redding, and Isaac Hayes; stage costumes worn by members of Funkadelic and the TSU Toronadoes; and rare vinyl records and photographs from the recently acquired Bob Abrahamian Collection.”

Of course, there are more Memphis museums to explore. The views from the Metal Museum’s bluffs are worth the trip, and every Memphian needs to visit the National Civil Rights Museum — preferably more than once. The Withers Collection Museum & Gallery on Beale is a personal favorite, and its deceptively small size in square footage is no hindrance to the breadth of Memphis life on view, as captured by the lens of photographer Ernest Withers. Whether it’s culture, history, science, or just powerful air-conditioning you seek, Memphis’ museums make for some special summer fun. — Jesse Davis

Paddle away from your responsibilities this summer. (Photo: Bruce VanWyngarden)

Paddle Your Cares Away

For this former Boy Scout, summer means it’s paddling season. While crafts like kayaks, canoes, or stand-up paddle boards take a bit of skill to keep under control, it’s not a steep learning curve, and the rewards are enormous, including the sublime quiet of such boating: All you hear is the dip of your paddle in the water and whatever the environment offers.

The environment can be spectacular if you make the short trip out to the Ghost River, a section of the Wolf River. Unlike parts of the Wolf in and around Memphis, the Ghost River section to the east has not been dredged and is dominated by cypress trees rising solemnly out of the unhurried flow, complemented with abundant wildlife, flowers, and grasses.

As Mark Babb, co-founder of Ghost River Rentals (ghostriverrentals.com), puts it, “Thanks to the efforts of the Wolf River Conservancy and others in the late ’80s, there is no erosion. It’s a Class 1 river, with a mild current. But we won’t go down the river with a chain saw and clear out the vegetation to make it an easy trip. We want to keep it natural. And when these trees fall across the river, they help to restrict the flow to prevent the erosion so it doesn’t become channelized or become a steep-banked river, like you see in other sections.”

As a result, Babb’s boat rental service recommends having at least one experienced paddler per boat. “A paddler needs to know how to steer a boat,” he says, “how to re-right their boat, how to avoid the tree limbs, how to portage over and around the downed trees.” Or one can spring for a guide to lead a group through the area.

Another option is to stick closer to the city. “When it comes to inexperienced paddlers, we recommend Kayak Memphis Tours (kayakmemphistours.com), which my son started. They offer canoeing and kayaking on the Memphis harbor and at Shelby Farms, including full moon floats every month, and July Fourth fireworks viewing out on the harbor.” — Alex Greene

Order a Wedding Cake Supreme for a summertime dream at Jerry’s. (Photo: Michael Donahue)

Cool off at Jerry’s

With apologies to Mungo Jerry and his song, “In the Summertime”: In the summertime when the weather is high — you can choose from 100 flavors at Jerry’s Sno Cones.

That also goes for fall, winter, and spring. And you can get hamburgers, chicken tenders, and other food items at either of the Jerry’s locations (1657 Wells Station Road or 1601 Bonnie Lane in Cordova).

Owner David Acklin was a customer before he owned the business, which he believes opened in 1967. “I used to go there when I was a teenager,” says David whose favorite flavor was — and still is — blue raspberry.

He got to know the owners L.B. and Cordia Clifton, whose son Jerry was the namesake of the business. The Cliftons became his “replacement grandparents,” says Acklin, who was 18 when he lost his grandfather. Acklin worked at a printing company at the time, but he also worked for the Cliftons for free after he got off his other job.

Acklin eventually bought Jerry’s Sno Cones, but he continued to work at the printing company. “I used to change clothes at red lights. Take off my tie and put on my shorts. … I used to wear penny loafers. I’d pull my socks off and slide into my flip-flops.”

There would already be a line when he got there at 3:30 p.m.

Acklin remembers going outside one July. “The line went straight out around the sign and two houses down.” He asked a kid in line to count the people. “So, 220 people.”

What’s the most popular snow cone flavor? “Wedding Cake Supreme. It’s red wedding cake and it’s got vanilla ice cream running through it.” — Michael Donahue

(Photo: Fortune Vieyra / Unsplash )

Summer in the Streets

Memphis has enough parks and playgrounds and other open space to accommodate a generous amount of summer recreation. And there are things to do off-campus, as it were.

The Bluff City has historically not witnessed the street stickball or other hazardous pastimes of so much big-city urban legend elsewhere, although the city’s sidewalks still work for hopscotch, and, with proper caution and adult supervision and sufficient notice to the neighbors, a children’s game or two undoubtedly gets played in the quieter residential coves.

As it happens, the streets are literally ideal for one particular form of recreation, which also has numerous utilitarian aspects. That would be bike-riding — if performed in the numerous lanes provided and plainly marked out along the margins of city streets and roads and carried out with sufficient attention to the rules of safety, particularly the wearing of helmets. Memphis has a variety of clubs for cyclists, and these groups generally provide for training and both spontaneous and carefully structured events.

As it happens, the simple act of walking and, with special care for fellow pedestrians, running are the most basic, easiest, and least expensive of street pastimes. Here, too, the largely common-sense rules of safety, such as attention to crosswalks and traffic lights, is called for.

Luckily, the Memphis Runners Track Club and other groups organize races and fun runs during the warm-weather months, and these, in cooperation with city government, take place along pre-planned and sectioned-off routes. The charge, when there is one, is nominal.

The often-overlooked Mud Island Riverwalk is technically not a street attraction, but it is outdoors, free of charge, and — in the oft-abused phrase — educational with its evocation of the city’s larger landscape, with enough DIY potential to appeal to the liberated spirit.

And, as veterans remember about the Jakob Dylan street concert of some 20 years ago, a serendipity stemming from a Beale Street opening, once in a while we have the good fortune of some free music. Maybe we’ll get lucky again. — Jackson Baker

Coach Rob Snowberger

Swim!

“It’s hot, and you need a pool!”

That’s how the classic Memphis commercial for Watson’s announced the beginning of summer. When the thermometer creeps upward, nothing is better than splashing in a pool or diving into a lake. But first, you should learn to swim, says Rob Snowberger.

As a swim coach for 50 years and the owner of Coach Rob’s Pool School, Snowberger has taught tens of thousands of Memphians to swim. “Drowning is the second-largest cause of accidental death, after car accidents,” he says. “It is the leading cause of death among preschool children. Below 3,000 deaths is considered a ‘good year.’ Seventy percent of those preschooler deaths take place in the backyard pool, which is the focus of our swim school — trying to avoid that catastrophe.”

Snowberger says it’s never too late to learn to swim — his oldest beginning student ever was 72. Children as young as 18 months can start learning, but the coach says most kids don’t develop the physical coordination needed until about age 3. “Swimming is a very complex feat. You’re kicking your legs, moving your arms, controlling your breathing. You’re turning your head in sequence with your arms. Dribbling a basketball is an easy skill, compared to all those things.”

Is it okay to jump in Memphis’ most famous body of water, the Mississippi River? “Oh, hell no!” says Snowberger.

Swimming in swiftly moving water is extremely dangerous. The Mississippi might look lazy on the surface, but that hides some of the strongest currents in the world. With those currents come all the debris that washed into the river as it traveled from Minnesota to Memphis. Swimmers run the risk of being struck by debris or pulled under by those currents.

Luckily, there are plenty of places to get wet, from public pools to backyard splashes to lakes. Snowberger says if you have small children, avoid the inflatable arm floaties and invest in a good life jacket with a strap between the legs.

And have fun! After all, it’s hot out. — Chris McCoy

Categories
Opinion The Last Word

Snow Cones and Nazis: Twitter Keyboard Commandoes Strike Again

The billionaire Reimann family — owners of Krispy Kreme, Einstein Bros. Bagels, Panera Bread, Dr. Pepper, Stumptown Coffee, and a long list of other brands in your pantry and bathroom cabinet — recently confessed that their progenitor was a straight-up Nazi. Albert and Albert Jr., who died in 1954 and 1984, respectively, didn’t speak of those days. The Reimann heirs believed a 1978 report had uncovered all there was to see about their family’s Nazi past.

They maintained that they were “reluctant” employers of slaves and prisoners of war in their chemical plants: That was the cost of doing business back then. Further research, commissioned by the family a few years ago, revealed otherwise. Father and son were avowed anti-Semites and early donors to the SS. Huge Hitler fans.

“They belonged in prison,” a family spokesman told German newspaper Bild. The Reimanns pledged to donate $11 million to charity after learning the extent of their ancestors’ crimes.

“Never get another dollar from me again,” one Twitter user said. “And I bet I’m not alone.”

Others: “Oh well, another business I don’t have [sic] patronize.”

“You have no loyalty and made a lot of enemies.”

“Never buying a snow cone from y’all again.”

Okay, wait. My bad. I must have gotten my notes mixed up. Those quotes aren’t about the Nazi bagel family. That story barely registered a blip on the outrage meter; I stumbled across it five levels deep into the Washington Post app.

Justin Fox Burks

Tennessee traitors? Nope, it’s Jerry’s Sno Cones.

No, those comments were a sampling of responses to locally beloved icy treat purveyor Jerry’s Sno Cones after they tweeted a picture of an orange UT-themed Jerry’s shirt with good luck wishes for the Volunteers in the NCAA Tournament. For this apparent mortal sin, a small army of snow cone snowflakes masquerading as “real Tiger fans” bullied @ConesJerry into deactivating their account.

If you weren’t convinced by now that Twitter has outlived its usefulness as a medium for polite and reasonable conversation, re-read the sentence above. It’s the most embarrassing thing a handful of people has done in the name of “Tiger Nation” since the Calipari lawn vigil a decade ago.

I only wish the person running the account — probably some teenage employee trying to build a portfolio for job applications — had been empowered to respond appropriately: “We’ll sure miss you in the line this summer, @TiptonTyger5892335. We hate to lose a regular.” Or “When the Tigers make the tournament, we’ll post something for them, too.” They could have turned off notifications and deleted the app for a few days. Shortly after Jerry’s was “canceled,” Purdue sent the Vols and their orange-and-white trousers back to Knoxville.

Twitter is the only place where acknowledging the existence of other universities in the state is viewed with frothing rage as an affront to “901 loyalty,” because who would say that out loud? That’s the beauty/agony of the platform. You don’t even have to consider whether your tweet is thoughtful, right, or stable. Just chuck it like a Frisbee and hope someone catches it. And if someone calls you out for saying something ridiculous? Well, they need to learn how to take a joke. I swear, for every connection I’ve made on that website, there are at least two asinine takes I wish I’d never read.

Want to be angry at a business? There are so many to choose from, and so many legitimate reasons. Get mad that one chicken restaurant can’t stop bankrolling anti-LGBTQ organizations or disrupting traffic on Poplar. Stay forever mad that one family owns almost every bagel and coffee chain in America — a fact that depressed me before I learned they’re a couple generations removed from actual Nazis. Look around and observe all the conveniently timed exterior projects in Memphis: How many companies could have spent their tax cuts on payroll and hiring, but opted to paint the building gray instead? Shake your fist at pay inequality, crappy family leave policies, CEO compensation, and all the other gross side effects of capitalism. Instead folks are pitching fits over a snow cone stand and an orange T-shirt. Very cool.

Jen Clarke is an unapologetic Memphian and digital marketing specialist.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Jerry’s Causes Stir with Orange Shirt

Jerry’s, Facebook

Jerry’s Sno Cones, the beloved purveyor of frozen treats, upset some true-blue tigers fans when they posted an orange (UT) Jerry’s shirt on Twitter. Calls for a boycott were made.

“I got a bunch of girls, you know — hundreds of them for years,” says David Acklin of Jerry’s. “They really wanted an orange T-shirt to take back. They want to take a piece of Memphis.”

(They also have a blue shirt.)

Claims were made that Jerry’s Twitter account was then deleted. Acklin denies this but says he’s not social media savvy. He says that they blocked those who were not followers and those who were being overly rude and using crass language.

Jerry’s Causes Stir with Orange Shirt

“We didn’t shut down Twitter,” he says. “We didn’t want it to be used as a platform for people to be hateful to each other.”

Ultimately, says Acklin, he’s heartened by the fervor of Memphis fans.

“We want Memphis football to do well; we want soccer to do well, and we want people to show up no matter. Whether we’re losing or not, show up.”

Acklin adds that they adding a new sno cone called Eye of the Tiger tomorrow. What’s the flavor?

“We’re still working on it,” he says. 

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Now open: Milk Dessert Bar, S&B Treats, and Jerry’s Cordova.

I’ve always liked sweets,” says Sharon Cohn, owner of the newly open Milk Dessert Bar in Germantown. She’s particularly fanatic about ice cream, she says, often making time during her travels to taste that city’s local offerings. And, yes, she’s been to Milk Bar in New York, the famed bakery operated under the Momofuku umbrella and headed by Christina Tosi. But, Cohn insists, the two places aren’t so similar. “I admire Christina Tosi,” she says. “She’s a pastry chef; I don’t claim to be.”

Instead, she describes her style as “down-home.” Her lace cookies have always been crowd-pleasers, and she’s also known for her lemon squares. But, it’s when this former hairdresser lets her imagination go wild that things at the Milk Dessert Bar go over-the-top.

Let’s start with the Unicorn Colossal. It’s a milkshake made with seven scoops of pink-dyed vanilla ice cream and dressed with cotton candy, rock candy, and sprinkles. “It’s not as complicated as it looks,” we’re told.

Shall we move on to the Milk Vortex, a combo of cereal and vanilla ice cream? Next up is the flight of cookie doughs, which may include dark chocolate pretzel, confetti, peanut butter, and s’mores.

There’s banana cream pie and chocolate coconut cake, blue cakes with wave patterns, cereal milk (it is what it sounds like), and cereal by the bowl. Two cookies and a carton of milk can be had for $4.50. And you can get a plain old scoop of vanilla, if you feel like it.

Milk Dessert Bar is off Kirby Parkway near the Kroger and Sekisui. Cohn says she’s had her eye on the space for a while. What she pictured was a place to hang out, where phones would be off and conversations would be had. There are board games (Candy Land, among them, naturally) and magazines and books. The decor consists of cool old funky pieces set against pretty blue-and-white tile.

It’s an ice cream candy land at the new Milk Dessert Bar in Germantown.

Cohn says her approach is “Let’s dream of something.” She recently is putting that mantra into action by signing up for a master’s degree in sculpting. “If I can do this,” she says, “I can do anything.”

Milk Dessert Bar is open Tuesday through Thursday, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. and Friday and Saturday, 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Milk Dessert Bar, 1789 Kirby Parkway, 730-0893, milkdessertbar.com

Corey Smith is a lifelong Memphian whose first job was selling Icees at Libertyland, so he knows a thing or two about offering up just the thing to counter a boiling hot day.

His new store, S&B Treats, opened in early July at Park Place Center. It serves liquid nitrogen ice cream.

Liquid nitrogen is added to an ice cream base and freezes at -320 degrees. This method keeps the ice crystals small, which makes for a creamier ice cream. Plus, it’s pretty cool to watch it being made.

Smith recently retired from the Memphis Police Department. He opened S&B for his daughters, Serenity and Brook, the “S” and the “B.”

S&B is mainly a build-your-own place. Begin with a base of either vanilla or chocolate and select two toppings — Butterfingers, pretzels, Fruit Loops, Vanilla Wafers, peaches, apples, and on and on.

They also offer a few signature treats like Strawberry Dream — with strawberry ice cream and sauce and shortcake topped with strawberries and whipped cream. Oreo Explosion is Oreos, ice cream, and chocolate sauce. A favorite is the Chocolate Cake with warmed chocolate sauce topped with ice cream and a tiny piece of cake.

Also on the menu is Philadelphia water ice, candy apples, and cupcakes.

Smith says of his time at Libertyland’s Revolution Icee, “There was no better training.” Likewise, he hopes to pay it forward by hiring his staff from area high schools. “They’re picking things up. It teaches them a craft,” he says.

S&B Treats, 1315 Ridgeway, 207-3048

Jerry’s Sno Cones owner David Acklin says he’s seen some familiar faces at the new space in Cordova. But maybe not as many. He’s taken to standing on Germantown Parkway with a sign.

But much is familiar at the new store. The shouting pink paint on the boxy building, the garage doors, the wall to write down your greatest hopes, the Wedding Supreme, of course.

The spotted polar bear is MIA, though Acklin says he tracked one down. It was too pricey.

The menu’s just about the same, though there are some additions, like Ghost Busters (marshmallow mixed with Toxic Waste) and Mystery (all the top vanilla flavors mixed together).

Jerry’s Sno Cones, 1601 Bonnie Lane

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

An Update from Jerry’s Sno Cones

Here’s a heartbreaker if there ever was one. Jerry’s Sno Cones owner David Acklin tells me he had his eye on the Easy Way on Cooper for a Jerry’s Midtown location, but family matters kept him from pursuing it. 

It is those same family matters that have delayed the second Jerry’s in Cordova. 

Acklin says they are currently working on the building design. He envisions it as a garage design with huge garage doors that can be pulled up during the warmer months and closed during the colder ones. 

He says he plans to serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner at the new location.

As for that third window that was supposed to go in the original Jerry’s to help move along the lines? Acklin says that the plans have changed. 

He’s added on a room at the back that will allow for indoor seating. He’s hoping to have it open in as little as two weeks, depending on air/heating work. 

A covered patio at the front of the original Jerry’s is another new addition. 

BTW, Acklin says he’s looking for 12-foot pink elephant for the new restaurant. If you have one, hook him up. 

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Elvis Eats

Drink Up

Rogue Ale has partnered with Portland, Oregon’s famed Voodoo Doughnuts to create its Chocolate, Peanut Butter & Banana Ale, a beery tribute to Voodoo’s Memphis Mafia, a fried donut with banana chunks, chocolate frosting, peanut butter, peanuts, and chocolate chips.

“It’s weird, but it’s good,” says Taylor James, the beer manager at Cash Saver Cost Plus Food Outlet on Madison.

The ale’s most distinct flavor is the chocolate, with the banana in the finish and the peanut butter in the aroma.

The ale, which comes in an eye-catching Pepto-Bismol-pink one-pint bottle, is $10 at Cash Saver. James ordered 25 cases and is confident there will be plenty to make it through Elvis Week.

Cash Saver Cost Plus Food Outlet, 1620 Madison (272-0171)

Bella Caffe in the Pink Palace Museum has its own spin on the King’s purported PB&B obsession. The Velvet Elvis is a traditional mocha latte dressed up with peanut butter and a dash of banana syrup. It comes served hot or as an icy blended frappe — opt for the latter on a hot August day — and topped with a healthy dose of whipped cream.

Banana flavoring can be overwhelming, but the Velvet Elvis proceeds with moderation and balances out the sweet chocolate with the nuttiness of the peanut butter and the espresso. And the espresso gives the drink an extra jolt of caffeine for hip-swiveling good fun. (Though, try to keep your gyrating in check, as this is the Pink Palace and there will be children around.)

Bella Caffe, 3050 Central (320-6407)

Hot Dogs & Hamburgers

Blues City Hot Dogs opened earlier this summer on Highland and offers a small but eclectic menu of hot dogs. There’s the Grizzly Dog with cheese grits, and the Southwestern Dog, which comes dressed with guacamole, sour cream, jalapeños, and Fritos.

And then there’s the Elvis Dog — a hot dog, bacon, and pancakes served in a bun. The maple syrup is optional.

“This is our tribute to Elvis,” Blues City’s Iymon Rasoul says. He says that the thinking was that Elvis equals the South, and the bacon-pancake combo is a very Southern dish.

“It’s very popular,” says Rasoul, who notes college students particularly like it. “It’s a good, full, meaty meal.”

Blues City Hot Dogs, 669 S. Highland (435-6879)

Like Blues City Hot Dogs, the Checkered Cow — a burger venture inside D’bo’s Wings n’ More — offers an imaginative menu.

The 20-plus-item menu includes eye-popping offerings like the Firecracker Burger soaked in Tabasco and the Nacho Burger topped with nacho cheese and tortilla chips.

And like the Blues City Elvis Dog, the Elvis Is N the Building Burger comes with bacon. There is also peanut butter, which melts from the heat of the freshly cooked patty.

“It’s not a bad combination,” says our taste-tester. “The peanut butter with the meat is kind of interesting.”

Multiple locations, thecheckeredcowburgers.com

Chicken & Bologna

Miss Polly’s Soul City Cafe on Beale has a number of dishes devoted to Elvis, none of which involves peanut butter and banana. The Love Me Tender sandwich is a simple chicken tender hoagie, and the Jail House Special is a sandwich made with rag bologna that has been smoked, fried, and basted with BBQ sauce.

But the real star at Miss Polly’s is the Comeback Special, named after Elvis’ famous 1968 television special. A generous serving of eight fried chicken livers comes served with a buttery waffle and your choice of a side item, all for $8.99. When we asked whether folks take their chicken liver and waffles with syrup or hot sauce, our waitress took pity on our ignorance and told us either way is fine.

Miss Polly’s Soul City Cafe, 154 Beale (527-9060)

Like a Hurricane

Ten years have passed since Hurricane Elvis ripped through Memphis, and on a recent rainy Saturday morning, we went to confront a Hurricane Elvis of a different sort.

“It’s a strong fruity flavor,” said the braces-faced teen working the counter of the Hurricane Elvis. We went with it and had them upgrade the sno cone to a supreme — intermixing the smooth shaved ice with soft serve ice cream.

The flavor was sweet and vaguely fruit-like. Maybe it wouldn’t have been Elvis’ favorite, without any banana or peanut butter to speak of. But this sno-cone stand in a refurbished gas station felt authentically vintage, and sitting in the rain certainly felt like an appropriate homage to Hurricane Elvis.

Jerry’s Sno Cones, 1657 Wells Station (767-2659)

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Loafing Around

Brother Franco and his Real Loaf bread are something of a Memphis institution. Although he hasn’t always been baking his bread in Memphis, he has been baking in Tennessee for more than 20 years.

“When Jimmy Lewis owned Squash Blossom, he used to sell my bread,” Franco says. “All his stores used to carry it, and even when I lived in East Tennessee, I would make a delivery once a week.”

Until recently, Franco was running Real Loaf Bakery in a location between Broad and Summer. He has since moved the operation to the Good Life Honeysuckle health store on Poplar across from East High School. While the store chiefly sells dietary supplements, it does offer a few local products, such as honey, Groovy Food Granola, and Brother Franco’s bread, which is baked on the premises and gives the store a warm and comforting atmosphere.

Franco’s breads are vegan and baked with mostly organic ingredients. The loaves weigh in at just under two pounds, and varieties include whole wheat, ultra grain, cracked wheat, banana nut, and blueberry. And while the $5- and $7-a-loaf price might be a little steep, it’s worth every penny.

Bread from the Real Loaf Bakery is also available at Square Foods in Cooper-Young.

Real Loaf Bakery, 3175 Poplar
(458-3003)

Fans of Jerry’s Sno Cones can rejoice. The hidden ice cream gem on Wells Station in North Memphis will now serve its frozen treats all year long.

“Customers have been asking me for a while to stay open throughout the winter,” says David Acklin, who owns and operates Jerry’s Sno Cones together with his children. “My daughter just graduated from high school, and she had an interest in managing Jerry’s, so we decided to stay open this year.”

In addition to its sno cones, slushes, freezes, shakes, and ice cream, Jerry’s has added burgers and sandwiches to its menu.

“We knew that we couldn’t add any new items to the menu during the summer, our busiest time, but we had several ideas and worked on testing those,” Acklin says. “We have been making sandwiches for about three weeks now.”

Sandwiches at Jerry’s include, among others, a cheeseburger on a buttered and grilled bun topped with hoop cheese and the works, as well as a fried baloney sandwich on buttered and grilled Texas toast with barbecue sauce, mustard, coleslaw, and cheese. Sandwich combos sell for $6 and come with French fries and a 20-ounce soda.

Another addition to the business is a telephone for call-in orders. “This is the first time in 33 years that the store actually has a phone,” Acklin says.

During the winter, Jerry’s Sno Cones is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Jerry’s Sno Cones, 1657 Wells Station (767-2659)

Jimmy John’s Gourmet Sandwiches is the latest addition to Memphis’ growing fast-casual sandwich-shop market. The Illinois-based chain opened its first local store on Poplar near White Station recently.

The company was started in Charleston, Illinois, in 1983 by Jimmy John Liautaud, who set out to create the world’s greatest gourmet sandwich, referencing cookbooks he’d checked out from the local library and trying his creations on friends and family members. As the story goes, Liautaud opened his first store near a college campus, trying to make ends meet while getting students and locals turned on to his sandwiches. Now, 25 years later, Jimmy John’s operates more than 500 stores, with another 160 openings scheduled for 2008. Seven of those are planned for the Memphis area.

On the menu at Jimmy John’s are eight-inch sub sandwiches on homemade French bread, including the Pepe (appelwood ham and provolone cheese), the Big John (medium-rare choice roast beef), and the Vito (Genoa salami, provolone, capicola). There’s also the Plain Slims, which are sub sandwiches minus the lettuce, tomatoes, sprouts, sauce, etc., and the Giant Sub Sandwiches with twice the meat on seven-grain or French bread.

If you can’t make it to the store, Jimmy John’s delivers for a charge of 25 cents per item, no minimum order required.

Jimmy John’s, 5181 Poplar (685-3040)