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Meanwhile in Memphis Documentary Celebrates 10 Years

First and foremost, Robert Allen Parker wants you to know he is a musician, not a director. Even so, for the better part of a decade, Parker found himself consumed in making a documentary on music in Memphis. That film — Meanwhile in Memphis: The Sound of a Revolution — premiered at the Indie Memphis Film Festival in 2013, and now it’s returning to the big screen for a special 10th anniversary screening at Malco Studio on the Square.

Meanwhile in Memphis, Parker explains, is an “overview of the modern Memphis music community from the late ’70s to roughly 2008. There’s all the old history — with Elvis, the blues, and B.B. King — that’s well-documented, but there’s not much on what’s happened since then. It was a big undertaking, but I had the drive and the ambition. That was kind of a risk and a gamble because I had never done anything film-related before.”

After a meeting by happenstance, Parker enlisted videographer Nan Hackman as co-director. “We were both wanting to promote the music scene and try to get out and do something,” he says. “She had the technical perspective to make it happen. She really made this happen.”

Together, Hackman, who has since passed, and Parker interviewed over a dozen artists and bands, including, among others, Jim Dickinson, Al Kapone, Tav Falco’s Panther Burns, Alicja-pop, and Mud Boy and the Neutrons. “We just wanted to tell the story of a couple of musicians, but of course then it grew bigger and bigger as we interviewed more people,” Parker says. “It basically expanded to a point to where it was really overwhelming. … And it became more of a historical document.”

With so much to work with, the direction of the film could have gone in a number of ways, Parker says, but ultimately, the through line that the filmmakers landed on was the “DIY mind” of Memphis musicians. “It doesn’t matter what genre of music they’re doing, just the fact of them being in Memphis and creating something here has an extra magical force to it. Whether it’s rap, garage, rock, blues, alternative, whatever, it’s a certain amount of DIY, like a raw passion. It’s not so much commercially driven. It’s just from the heart and soul. It’s something that you know it when you hear it and see it. … I got a new perspective on everything. It inspired me as musician.”

Because Hackman and Parker had so much footage, they ended up making a series of short films on a few of the artists interviewed, including one on Jim Dickinson which will accompany the Meanwhile in Memphis screening on Thursday. In between the short film and feature, Jimmy Crosthwait, the last living member of Mud Boy and the Neutrons, will perform with Parker and others backing him.

“When we made the documentary,” Parker reflects, “I wanted it to be made in a way where someone could watch it 10 or 20 years from then and for it to still be relevant.” So far, at the 10-year mark, the musician has found this to hold true.

“Jim Dickinson: The Man Behind the Console” and Meanwhile in Memphis: The Sound of a Revolution Screenings, Malco Studio on the Square, Thursday, April 27, 7 p.m., free.

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Bob Dylan’s Haunted Songs at the Orpheum

Bob Dylan’s appearance at the Orpheum Theatre on Saturday felt momentous even before we arrived. Something about the confluence of our tentative return to public life, his own dogged determination, and the historic upheavals we’re all experiencing lent his appearance a greater significance than ever.

Perhaps that’s why the full house spontaneously rose to a standing ovation as soon as Dylan and his band took the stage. And though Dylan has never varied from a fixed setlist on recent tours, opening with the blues shuffle of “Watching the River Flow” was especially appropriate for a gathering in a classic theater at the foot of Beale Street, just a stone’s throw from the Mississippi.

It was especially moving if one paused to reflect that the Orpheum is still standing because of the efforts of musical auteur Jim Dickinson and other activists, who’s efforts prevented the destruction of the theater in the ’70s. Years later, when Dylan’s Time Out of Mind won a Grammy, he would name check the native Memphian in his acceptance speech. “This is for my brother, Jim Dickinson. He lives in Mississippi.”

Their common roots were highlighted with an opening tune dating back to the early ’70s, and the prominence of piano (Dickinson’s instrument of choice) in Saturday’s performance. Dylan hasn’t touched a guitar onstage for some time now, but hearing him play only piano was a first for this listener. (The last time I saw him was at Mud Island in the ’90s). It seemed entirely appropriate that Dylan’s instrument was neither some digital keyboard nor a grand piano, but a barrelhouse console piano with its back to the audience. Dylan spent the night standing at it with only his head and shoulders visible. But, given that he would occasionally step out stoically from behind it to accept applause, that was enough.

The band, with drummer Charlie Drayton, guitarists Doug Lancio and Bob Britt, multi-instrumentalist Donnie Herron, and longtime bassist Tony Garnier, would often noodle about in the key of each upcoming song, especially on the slower numbers. This sometimes made the quieter pieces seem to emerge from a cloud of notes, as if coalescing out of stardust. It also emphasized the living spontaneity of the performances.

While most of the set was drawn from his 2020 album, Rough and Rowdy Ways, the second song, “Most Likely You Go Your Way and I’ll Go Mine,” also harked back to Dylan’s far past, with a far more ethereal approach, the band tentatively easing into a quieter treatment that was no less powerful for it.

They took quite the opposite approach a few songs in, when Dylan launched another classic track, “When I Paint My Masterpiece,” with a deft blues harp boogie. That, too, benefited from the new arrangement, and suited the proximity of Beale Street to a T.

The songs from his latest album were no less enthusiastically received. The steadfast blues shuffle/march of “False Prophet” was so powerful that the crowd rose to its second standing ovation as the music drew to a close, with Dylan stepping out to receive the adulation. His grim demeanor only served to highlight the gravitas of the lyrics. This singer was clearly in the zone.

“Black Rider,” while not as spare as the album version, showcased the band’s more subtle side, sans drums. And when they kicked off the next tune with a groovy boogie riff, many did not realize it was the 1967 gem, “I’ll Be Your Baby Tonight.” The strong riffs underpinning “Gotta Serve Somebody” were similarly disorienting, but once you realized what was happening, the old songs took on added power, and, in the latter case, led to yet another standing ovation.

The one glimmer of joy in Dylan’s demeanor came during the lilting waltz, “I’ve Made Up My Mind to Give Myself to You.” The tender, reflective tune had a dramatic silence at one point, promptly filled by a fan yelling, as if on cue, “We love you, Bob!” As Dylan resumed singing, he let out an irrepressible laugh.

The songwriter’s Frank Sinatra fascination bubbled to the surface in the form of “Melancholy Mood,” a revelation of sorts in the loose but focused energy brought by the band. And then he brought it close to the heart of Memphis with the quiet “Mother of Muses.” Applause and a shiver of recognition rippled through the crowd as Dylan sang:

Sing of Zhukov and Patton and the battles they fought
Who cleared the path for Presley to sing
Who carved out the path for Martin Luther King
Who did what they did and then went on their way
Man, I could tell their stories all day

After “Goodbye Jimmy Reed,” Dylan introduced the band, name checking Sam Phillips along the way, and then drew the night to a close with the magnificent “Every Grain of Sand.” The crowd tried to rally for an encore, but most knew that the evening was complete. Dylan was done, and so were we, satisfied to have seen one of the 20th Century’s greatest visionaries make his work, both old and new, spark with fresh relevance today.

Setlist from April 9, 2022:
Watching the River Flow
Most Likely You Go Your Way and I’ll Go Mine
I Contain Multitudes
False Prophet
When I Paint My Masterpiece
Black Rider
I’ll Be Your Baby Tonight
My Own Version of You
Crossing the Rubicon
To Be Alone With You
Key West (Philosopher Pirate)
Gotta Serve Somebody
I’ve Made Up My Mind to Give Myself to You
Melancholy Mood (Frank Sinatra cover)
Mother of Muses
Goodbye Jimmy Reed (followed by band introductions)
Every Grain of Sand

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Remembering Jim Blake, Trailblazer of the ’70s Memphis Music Underground

Pat Rainer

Jim Blake

Barbarian Records was a beacon of hope in the chaotic music scene of the ’70s in Memphis, when the idealism of the ’60s opened minds and ears to sounds decidedly more freakish, a precursor to what would later be called punk. The label was launched in 1974 by the owner of Yellow Submarine Records, Jim Blake, who passed away yesterday at the Regional One Medical Center while recovering from complications related to a pelvic injury sustained last Friday. He was 75. 

Blake was at the center of a scene that included Jim Dickinson, Sid Selvidge, Lee Baker, Jimmy Crossthwait, Alex Chilton, Ardent’s John Fry, Knox Phillips, William Eggleston, and Tav Falco, among others. By his side through much of the decade was Pat Rainer, who exhibited her photographs from the era two years ago at the Stax Museum of American Soul Music.

Yesterday I spoke with Rainer, who now lives in California, about Blake’s importance to the scene and his legendary archive of recorded works by the likes of Dickinson, Lesa Aldridge, the Klitz, and wrestler Jerry Lawler, complemented by his formidable library of LPs, comics and books by others. 

Memphis Flyer: What happened? Was Jim Blake in ill health?

Pat Rainer: He fell while he was going into his house Friday evening, and a neighbor got an ambulance to take him to a hospital in Wynne, Arkansas. And people there figured out he had a fractured pelvis. The next morning they helicoptered him over to [Regional One], and he’d been there since Saturday. But then this afternoon he became unresponsive. They couldn’t revive him.

All because of a fractured pelvis?

You know, he had had heart bypass surgery in the fall of last year. And he had done pretty well since then. But in the past month or so, he’d been complaining about having problems with his balance, and having vertigo. On Friday, he was trying to carry a bunch of stuff in his house and he fell. I assume he was carrying comic books or records. Or both. I mean, it’s pretty poetic if that’s what he was carrying, but for all I know he was carrying groceries.

  courtesy Mesmery Blake

Jim Blake and daughter Mesmery

This was at his home near Wynne, Arkansas?

Yes. Jim’s mother moved to Arkansas because her family was there. She was from Cherry Valley. Jim moved there when he left L.A. in the late 80s to take care of his mom when she was in failing health. Then his older brother bought a place there later.

You may have worked with Jim Blake longer than anyone in Memphis from that time.

I’ve known Blake since ’68 maybe? ’67 or ’68. I worked for him at Atlantis, which opened in ’68. I don’t know what you know about Atlantis, but it was a trip. That was the predecessor to the Yellow Submarine record shop. It was a house on Poplar, an old brick bungalow. And every room was devoted to a different kind of retail store. There was a record store, a comics store, Mike Ladd had a guitar shop, and there was, of course, a head shop. And somebody built a big light organ and hooked it up to a stereo, and we had all these headphone posts in there. You could sit in there and put the headphones on and watch the light show.

courtesy Pat Rainer

Pat Rainer at Graceland the day after Elvis died

He published an Atlantis newspaper, and he promoted a concert with Spirit at the auditorium, and then he did another one with Donovan. Atlantis preceded Yellow Submarine. In the interim, we had a falling out for a minute because I left him and went to work at Poplar Tunes. How dare I leave him! That’s the story of my life with him. Periods of being estranged because you didn’t do what Jim thought you ought to do, because that’s just the way it was. Then I went back to work for him and Nancy (his ex-wife) at Yellow Submarine. That was when he had what was first called Tennessee Roc newspaper, and then after that it was the Strawberry Fields newspaper.

He had pretty strong opinions. Kind of a firebrand, it seems?

Yeah. We were very passionate about music. That was our main thing. And he did what he could do to spread the word about stuff we heard and thought was important. Everything from David Bowie to Lou Reed to Rod Stewart. With the help of our friend Grover, he got Bowie to do a live interview on FM 100 with Jon Scott, and that really did break Bowie in America. We were into Bowie, let me tell ya. I loved Bowie, but Blake and Grover were cuckoo for coco puffs over him!

So Barbarian Records began while you were working at Yellow Submarine, when Blake decided to put out a record by Jerry Lawler, the wrestler?

Jim Dickinson really gave Blake the confidence and the idea that he could take Lawler into a studio and he could make a record. Dickinson said, “You know, you could make a record on Lawler and sell them at the matches,” and you could see the light go off over Jim’s head. He and I used to take Lawler’s records to the Coliseum and sell ’em in the stands, just walk up and down the aisle and sell them. When Lawler was a bad guy, they would buy ’em and break ’em! And when he became a good guy, they would take ’em and try and get ’em autographed.

I think working with Lawler meant the most to him. But he was really thrilled to work with my friend Randy Romano, who we called Sabu La Teuse. He was a gay white man who sounded like a young Black woman. And I think just being in the studio was what he loved, you know? All the musicians that would come work for him, it was just a blast.
Pat Rainer

Jim Blake smokes a joint while musicians prepare for a recording session, 1970s.

In addition to the handful of records he put out in the ’70s, he had a lot of unreleased recordings, didn’t he?

Yes, and I’d been working with him really hard for the past four or five years to get him to get those tapes out, so we could reissue all the Barbarian stuff on Omnivore Recordings. And he would always start the conversation with, “But I’ve got all these unfinished tracks on Alex Chilton and Sabu and Dickinson!” I’m going, “Jim, can we reissue the stuff that’s already been released? That”s been mixed and mastered? Then we can look at other stuff.” But there was always some reason why he couldn’t get to it.

Just the mindset of thinking he would go in and tweak something from 40 years ago, it’s mind-boggling.

Uh, yeah, like, “I’ve just gotta finish that track, get that one guitar overdub.” [laughs]
courtesy Mesmery Blake

Jim and Mesmery Blake

Robert Gordon went over there and helped him get the door open to the storage trailer where he had all the Barbarian masters. His and Nancy’s daughter Mesmery and I have been trying to get out there and get into it. Then he had to have that heart surgery. And then the pandemic. Robert sent me some shots he took, of piles and piles of stuff in his trailer. It looks very familiar to me. I lived through that for so many years with him. It started off small, and then when he relocated from his small house over there by Memphis State, he moved to a bigger home out there in Raleigh. And he built wall to wall record shelves, where he had to walk through there like a maze. You had to walk sideways. After that, he and I kind of fell out again, so I haven’t seen any of it over there in Arkansas.

It sounds like an amazing library, not just of Barbarian material, but in general.

He collected records and comics and never got rid of any of ’em. He collected books and posters and artwork.

Did he live alone out by Cherry Valley?

Yeah. He’s been living alone out there for a while. He has a cousin that lives down the road. His brother passed away a while ago. For years and years, we’ve called Mesmery the Barbarian Heiress. She’s his only daughter. Jim said when he first looked at her he was mesmerized, so she’s named Mesmery.  She moved to Oregon to work in the wine industry and she’s done very well for herself there.

Of all the stuff he worked on, what meant the most to him?

I think anything he worked on with Dickinson. Dickinson was his mentor, like he was mine.

Did Jim Blake do much into the ’80s?

He moved out to LA in the early 80’s to work with Jon Scott, who was doing independent record promotion. Jim and Jon put out a tip sheet for radio called “Scott’s Tissue” with news about new music that went to radio programmers around the country. They also worked with a band called DFX2. They got them signed to MCA and had a record come out that was quite good.

Then he kinda transitioned, and he was working for Jerry Lawler for quite some time. He was driving to Memphis from Cherry Valley three or four days a week, to work for Lawler. Even recently. In fact, Lawler fixed up a place for him to stay at his house, after he got out of the hospital from having that heart surgery. You know, when Jerry was just a kid, Blake would pay him for his artwork. Jerry would draw stuff for our newspapers; he painted the front of the Yellow Submarine with a scene from a comic book. Jim always tried to encourage Jerry. We used to call him the human Xerox machine. Lawler could look at anything and reproduce it. And making those records, Jim was really ahead of his time doing that.

A memorial service in celebration of Jim Blake’s life will be held in Memphis in the near future, according to Mesmery Blake.

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New Memphis Colorways: A Man, A Band, A Plan

Paul Taylor, aka New Memphis Colorways

Memphians not hip to specific personnel in the local music scene may have seen the name New Memphis Colorways pop up in their feeds from time to time, and wondered just what that could be. A man? A band? A plan? [Panama? – ed.]

Actually, it’s all three. First of all, it’s the man otherwise known as Paul Taylor, a self-taught multi-instrumentalist who grew up in the midst of many Memphis music luminaries, including his own father, legendary singer and guitarist Pat Taylor. “And I learned most of my songcraft from Richard Orange,” Taylor adds. “He was very much a second dad to me.”

Orange, of course, first came to Memphis as leader of the band Zuider Zee, whose recent release of archival material from 1972-74, Zeenith, was dubbed one of 2018’s best reissues by Rolling Stone magazine. That’s especially relevant because echoes of that era, albeit with some serious reconfiguring, are all over New Memphis Colorway’s new album, The Music Stands., to be celebrated at a release party on Friday, January 31 at The Green Room at Crosstown Concourse. It will simultaneously become available on all streaming services.

“The first two tracks are my weird modern take on Memphis power pop,” says Taylor, “and then it shifts to songwriter/acoustic mode for a couple songs, and then a couple of art rock instrumentals. Then the last song is a reflective ballad.”

While it’s easy to lay claim to the territory first mapped out by Big Star, Zuider Zee, or the Hot Dogs back in the day, the proof comes as soon as the proverbial needle drops. (Someone please put this out on vinyl!) “Impossible Goals” revs up like the Clash, then hits you with unexpected riffs and the kind of unaffected, straight-arrow singing you might have thought was extinct.

One astounding feat is the way Taylor’s voice has hints of Alex Chilton, even as his songwriting has more echoes of Chris Bell. And yet the music also could sit comfortably next to much later touchstones, like the Posies, in all its unexpected harmonic and rhythmic turns.

“I don’t want to be super-referential to the past,” notes Taylor. “I hold in my head, daily, the Sam Phillips quote, ‘If you’re not doing something different, you’re not doing anything at all.’ I do make study of older music, and I think it’s critical that you learn it note for note. I’m transcribing jazz solos or learning Steve Cropper or Teenie Hodges or Reggie Young, or the drumming of Gene Chrisman and Al Jackson Jr. These are my heroes. But I don’t deliberately set about making music that shows that off. At the end of the day, I try to throw that away and just let the songs come out.”

And come out they do, as some notable musicians, having heard advance tracks, have remarked on.

“Paul Taylor’s new record, under the nom de plume New Memphis Colorways, is like looking through a glass phosphorescently. Truly an artist of wizardry, sailing uncharted waters of sound, colour and light. An otherworldly adventure in melodic transcendence. Not to be missed.” – Richard Orange

Okay, that was from his “second dad” and mentor. But other songwriters have weighed in as well. Chuck Prophet, with whom Taylor has worked extensively in the past, said, “Paul has really come into his own here. Although the songs are deceptively simple, there’s a world inside each track. These little musical creations are killer. They will creep up on you. They’ll reach out and grab you. It’s all very soulful. And a little magical too. Kinda proggy. Kind of indie. And utterly impossible to describe. I dig it.”

And one of Memphis’ more literary songwriters, Cory Branan, had this to say: “Paul’s out of his damn mind. He conjures more original musical ideas in 12 bars than most musicians do with entire albums. The Music Stands. finds him, as always, accessing strangenesses and welding the unexpected with a singular vision.”

One striking thing about the record is that it doesn’t sound, like so many records, like the product of tinkering. It has the impact of a full-on rock band. Which would seem to answer the second query as to what exactly New Memphis Colorways is. But if you assumed it was a band from, say 1979, playing on these tracks, you’d be wrong. Nearly all the instruments were played by Taylor. New Memphis Colorways is a band in a man.

“I grew up listening to a lot of Todd Rundgren and a lot of Prince, and people like that who made records where they played everything. It’s what I’ve been doing since I was literally seven years old, when my dad was helping me four-track songs, so it seemed like a natural thing for me to do. The next record I make, I would hopefully play an acoustic guitar and hire a band around me, and do it live, like a lot of Memphis records that I love were. This one is more of a D.I.Y. affair, which is fun.”

Nevertheless, the album release show will have a full band. “I have musicians that are just incredible,” says Taylor. “Hopefully we’ll be playing more shows.”

Add that to a long list of releases, projects and entities with which Taylor is associated, much of which he releases on his own label, the Owl Jackson Jr. Record Company. “New Memphis Colorways is my brand,” Taylor clarifies. “And it’s all encompassing. Anybody who knows me knows I do a bunch of different things. The EP I released previously [Old Forest Loop] was drastically different from this, and the next one will probably be drastically different.” Still other eclectic expressions come in the form of an album of experimental instrumentals that exist only under the hashtag #nmcvignettes, and an even earlier online release, The Old Forest Trail.

The diversity of these varied projects is a delight in its own right, and ultimately shows that, at heart, New Memphis Colorways is a plan. “I’m a huge fan of skateboard art and graphic design in general,” explains Taylor. “If you were to release a skateboard, it might have different color combinations and variations on the same graphic: colorways. The whole concept of New Memphis Colorways is that it’s new combinations of ideas.” In this newest work, one finds the everything-but-the-kitchen-sink approach of the ’70s alive and well, and definitely kicking. It’s an approach that suits New Memphis Colorways just fine.

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Across the Borderline: Gaby Moreno at the Buckman

Music crosses borders more easily than bodies do. That’s why the Rolling Stones’ “(I Can’t Get No) Satisfaction” grooves to a Cuban beat, why The Beatles’ early records are chock-full of covers of songs by Motown and Sun Studio artists. “It’s a cliché, but music really is the universal language,” says Guatemalan-born singer-songwriter Gaby Moreno on a recent phone call. We spoke in advance of her concert at the Buckman Performing Arts Center at St. Mary’s, Friday, January 17th.

She would know. The genre-bending performer can sing in four languages — English, Spanish, French, and Portuguese — and her music is tinged with the sounds of blues, jazz, soul, and R&B. Though Moreno is quick to point out that her singing in French is just phonetic — she doesn’t speak the language — she is nonetheless a poster child for the many ways music acts as a bridge.

When she was a child, Moreno’s parents took her to New York to see Broadway musicals and opera. While she was there, she discovered the blues. “That changed everything for me,” Moreno says. She heard Koko Taylor’s “Wang Dang Doodle” and, she says, “I just went down the rabbit hole after that.” Now, years later, music has continued to be a catalyst for connections for Moreno. On her most recent album, 2019’s ¡Spangled!, Moreno collaborated with famed arranger and composer Van Dyke Parks and with Jackson Browne on the album’s opener, a cover of Ry Cooder’s “Across the Borderline.”

Moreno agrees when I suggest that, in 2019, opening an album with “Across the Borderline,” a song co-written by Memphis’ Jim Dickinson, is making an indisputably concrete statement: “Oh, yes. Absolutely. We completely wanted to make that statement,” she says. “That’s a song that [Van Dyke Parks] introduced to me. I hadn’t heard it before, and he actually played on that song that was recorded in the 1980s for the movie The Border with Jack Nicholson. It’s a song written by Ry Cooder and John Hiatt and Jim Dickinson. It’s just such a beautiful song. It’s heartbreaking, and it really speaks to the times that we are living in. I thought it would be a good statement to make, especially because I’m an immigrant and it’s a topic that concerns me.” She adds, “It’s something that, for me, will never completely go away. … I definitely feel a sense of responsibility, especially being Guatemalan.

“I want to be a voice for those who do not have one. And be a voice of hope, really. That’s all I want to do.”

On ¡Spangled!, Moreno is indubitably a voice for hope. Her voice, brimming over with warmth and strength, is lifted up by Parks’ lush arrangements. The album is a cornucopia of sounds and influences, tonally an example of what can be achieved through a mixture of diverse ideas. On “The Immigrants,” Moreno sings “America, remember Ellis Island. We all came here to take the plunge.” The lyrics are bolstered by triumphant instrumentation, giving the song a hopeful air.

“I’m so honored to have worked with him,” Moreno says of Parks, her collaborator on ¡Spangled!, who has worked with Brian Wilson of the Beach Boys, Joanna Newsom, U2, Rufus Wainwright, and others. “We found each other. We met about 11 years ago in L.A. through mutual friends, musicians. We were both part of this small, intimate concert. We talked about the love that we have for music from Latin America, and just kind of naturally he asked me to send him something.

“Then he sent me ideas; I sent him mine. And we ended up with this collection of 10 songs. But this was like 10 years ago. I’ve been saying that this record has been 10 years in the making.”

The decade-in-the-making collaboration with Parks — and with Jackson Browne, who sings on “Across the Borderline” — was made possible, in part, by connections Moreno made while living in L.A. “When I was living in Guatemala, I got offered a record contract, and the label was in Los Angeles, and that’s why I gravitated toward that city,” Moreno explains. “But I was always thinking of New York for some reason. I really loved musicals.” Still, Moreno explains, “I love being [in L.A.]; I think it’s the right place for me to be, not just because of the music that I do, but also the community that thrives there. It’s one that I’m so blessed to be a part of.”

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When I ask Moreno how she decides in what language to sing, she makes it clear it’s more a natural impulse than an intellectual decision. “It’s just whatever comes to my head immediately. If there’s a lyric that comes to me in Spanish, then I’ll know the rest of the song will be in Spanish,” Moreno explains. “Having said that, I have written songs that are in Spanglish — so I’ll start a verse in English, and then I’ll just throw another verse in Spanish in there. I’ve been doing that more and more lately, and I find that a bit amusing,” she continues. “I am a huge fan of French music and Portuguese music — and just music in general,” Moreno continues. “I don’t care if they’re singing to me in whatever language. If the music speaks to me, that’s everything.”

And Moreno certainly has an ongoing dialogue with the music. It speaks to her, and her music, over the course of six albums and in a multitude of styles, continues to speak to listeners. “At first, it took me a little bit to find my own voice and find my sound, but I feel like at the end it’s just good music. I don’t like to have all these labels,” Moreno says. “Whether it’s blues, jazz, soul or folk, Americana, country, in a way they are all kind of related. I’ve had fun playing with all of them and seeing the possibility.

“I’ve been singing since I was 7 years old. That’s been my main thing,” Moreno remembers. “But when I picked up a guitar, I knew that I could write my own things, that I could accompany myself live. That was very liberating, and I loved it. I just love having that instrument as a tool for my songwriting,” Moreno says. “And also I really enjoy performing live with it.”

She’ll get a chance to Friday, when the lush arrangements of ¡Spangled! are reimagined for a more intimate, though still lively performance by her four-piece band. Moreno’s touring band, with whom she’s performed for some time, includes bass, drums, and two guitars, with one of those guitars played by Moreno. She says that though the band will touch on ¡Spangled!, much of the performance will be from 2016’s Illusión, an album with a more-stripped down quartet sound steeped in blues and jazz. “Pale Bright Lights,” a swing jazz meets honky-tonk jam, seems especially well-suited to performance as a four-piece band.

Strictly speaking, the upcoming concert at the Buckman won’t be Moreno’s first time singing in Memphis, though it will be her first official concert here. “I was invited to sing at St. Jude Children’s Hospital. It was just an acoustic concert,” Moreno says of her first time in the Bluff City, several years ago. This Friday’s concert, though, will mark the first performance with her full band in Memphis. “You’ll get the full show,” she says.

An Evening with Gaby Moreno at the Buckman Performing Arts Center at St. Mary’s, Friday, January 17th, 8 p.m. $35

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Lion in Winter: The True Adventures of Stanley Booth

“I think it’s only fair that all those people are dead, and we’re not.”

This was said on a recent evening by Stanley Booth, aged 76, and my friend for well more than half a century. Yes, we have outlived our share of contemporaries, but I am not quite sure how to take the remark, especially since Stanley promptly begins listing exceptions to this category of the justly deceased.

Among them are such other longtime Booth friends as Irvin Salky and Charles Elmore (the latter known as “Charlie Brown” for his roundheaded resemblance to the Peanuts comic strip character), both gentle souls, both legendary facilitators in these parts of general folk-art awareness, and both, as it happens, in on the creation of the early Memphis blues festivals. Salky died from complications of a stroke in 2016; Elmore more recently from the ravages of a beating and maiming by street toughs.

Another death to be lamented was that of Jim Dickinson, the one-man music renaissance whose legacy lives on in his two sons, Luther and Cody, both players in the North Mississippi Allstars; in the Dickinson-founded group Mud Boy and the Neutrons; and in other hell-raisers both local and in the musical mainstream at large. It has been all of nine years since Dickinson’s passing, and Booth, then living in his native state of Georgia, recalls his surprise and dismay in learning of it:

“I didn’t know Dickinson was that ill. You just don’t expect your friends to die like that.” Booth remembers having a long-distance phone conversation with Dickinson three days before his death, one that Dickinson closed out by saying, “Look, we could talk like this for hours, and we will.”

Booth is the author of celebrated literary works like The True Adventures of the Rolling Stones, a lengthy, sui generis chronicle of the great rock-and-roll group; and of Keith, an in-depth portrait of Stones guitarist Keith Richards; and the purposely misspelled Rythm Oil, a collection of profiles and other pieces about the music of Memphis and the rest of the American South.

Booth is now readying for publication another collection of 26 pieces, to be entitled Red Hot and Blue, which might be recognized as the name of the late-night radio show presided over in the ’50s by the late redneck DJ Dewey Phillips, who first broadcast music by Elvis Presley and who, as much as anybody else, deserves credit for bringing rhythm and blues into the musical mainstream.

Booth’s recollection of Phillips, the culminating piece in the new collection, will doubtless go far toward reminding the world of Daddy-O Dewey’s contributions, and the new book as a whole may do the same for Booth himself.

To talk with Stanley Booth is, at times, to encounter an unusual sense of fatalism. Or perhaps, rather, a heightened sense of the vulnerability and impermanence of the human flame. He mused recently that he befriended Phillips in the year or so before the death of the iconic DJ — then hanging on to life and credibility at a small radio station in Millington — and that, similarly, he had met Stones co-founder Brian Jones before Jones’ death by drowning in a swimming pool, and that he had been in a room at Stax-Volt studio with Otis Redding when the great Memphis soul artist was composing “Dock of the Bay,” the classic ballad he recorded just before his touring plane went down in 1967. Booth sums it up by saying wryly, “Meet Stanley and die.”   

As recently as August 2012, Booth received a Lifetime Achievement Award from the Smithsonian Institute, but that and a slew of like  honors did not prevent him from tottering on the edge of an existential abyss.

In August of 2012, his third marriage, to the poet Diann Blakely, was in tatters, and her death proved unsettling in numerous ways, including geographical. Booth ended up decamping that October from the couple’s Georgia residence and returning to Memphis, where he had moved with his parents in 1959, studied at Memphis State University (now the University of Memphis), and lived for many years, finding our blues-soaked Delta capital to be the source of many of his early subjects and inspirations.

Memphis was also the scene of numerous frustrations for Booth over the years and would continue to be even after his return. He rented a house on Belvedere and, in short order, became destitute. He befriended a homeless man, who had taken up residence in an outdoor shed. As the weather worsened one winter, Booth invited the man to come in out of the cold and spend time in the house.

The man did, and, as Stanley tells it, “he went on to steal my car and a bunch of other stuff.”       

Over the last few years, his lifetime achievements seemed to have come to nought. He recalled: “You can’t eat reputation. If I had a nickel for every good review I’ve had …” he said, letting that sentence fade out rhetorically. He had lived for several years in the Arkansas Ozarks, where he had holed up in a cabin with the aforesaid Charlie Brown and written much of his Stones book, and that experience suggested a strategy. 

“I was thinking of getting out, packing a bag, and going to the Ozarks, to a cave. I had worried about becoming homeless when I was on Belvedere. I was out of money, thinking seriously of going to Arkansas and living in a cave. I know where several caves are that maintain a temperature of 65 degrees inside, year-round.”

Instead, Booth ended up using the life insurance money left him by Blakely to buy his current house, a modest brick bungalow in the vintage Vollintine neighborhood, among largely African-American neighbors. He remained carless, as indeed he is today, dependent for transportation on others.

Here is the appropriate spot for a little backstory. Stanley and I, both English majors at Memphis State in the ’60s, with similar tastes and vague aspirations to be famous writers, had gotten to be fairly close friends, it’s fair to say — though there was always an element of rivalry, both as fledgling wordsmiths and in other ways common to greedy and needy undergraduates of our sort. Let me confess: He was much more the classic stud, though he surprised me recently by expressing envy, ex post facto, about a time or two I’d gotten lucky.

After graduation, we stayed friendly. When I had an optional operation to remove a benign bone tumor, discovered during a brief stint in the Air National Guard, my first post-operative visitor outside my immediate family was Stanley Booth, who brought me flowers(!) and stayed for a while, meanwhile charming my mother and grandmother.

We had both thought of fiction as the likely arena of our development — he a Hemingway acolyte, me fixated on Fitzgerald — but I would get a series of post-graduate jobs as a journalist (with, sequentially, the Millington Star, the Blytheville (Ark.) Courier News, and the Arkansas Gazette), and Stanley, too, in those years of the New Journalism, moved into the province of non-fiction, setting out with deliberation to master the art by tackling the subject of the street sweeper and indigenous Memphis blues artist, Furry Lewis, to whom he was introduced by Brown.     

Stanley tried unsuccessfully to sell that article to Esquire, the magazine which then was the epitome of hip to young writers, and was told instead that the magazine was looking for someone to write about Elvis Presley. The Furry Lewis piece, shelved, would later be published by Playboy, which would give it that magazine’s award for non-fiction article of the year. Meanwhile, Booth cast about for some way of getting close to Presley, then still in the premature mummification of B-movie Hollywood.

That’s when Stanley connected with Dewey Phillips, looking for an entree to the reclusive Elvis that the disc jockey could no longer provide. And one night — this was the summer of 1967 — Stanley and I dropped some acid and killed an evening at the East Memphis apartment complex where he was then living. As he knew, my family had, for a period of months, when the young Elvis had begun to score as a Sun Records artist, lived next door to the entertainer and his parents, who were then inhabiting a modest house on Lamar Avenue.

Years later, my brother Don and I had ended up at Graceland for an evening, in the company of a veritable mob of hangers-on, and on this evening in 1967, years later, I told Stanley about that and much else that I remembered about Elvis. I related in some detail a story from that surreal night at Graceland, focused around my brother’s nervously playing Elvis’ piano in the wee hours, under the gaze of a just-awakened Elvis, followed by the whole crowd’s going outside to watch the icon’s largely futile attempts to fly a model airplane.

That story, rendered with artful third-person objectivity, along with my recollections of a key Presley concert at old Russwood Park, would end up as the borrowed centerpieces of an Esquire article that would put Booth on his way. The article, entitled “Hound Dog, to the Manor Born,” was masterful, insightful, and wholly deserving of the classic status it achieved almost immediately and maintains today. Its writing owed much to the example of Gay Talese, an avatar of the New Journalism who had demonstrated in a previous Esquire article entitled “Frank Sinatra Has a Cold,” how one could write a profile without access to its subject, by dint of patient and probing interviews with other people who had enjoyed such access.

Out of necessity, the story lacks a characteristic ingredient of virtually everything else Stanley has written, a focus on his own experience as a major leitmotif in whatever he has to say about his avowed subject. Open any page of The True Adventures of the Rolling Stones at random, for example, and you are as like to find an account of Stanley’s entertaining a passage with a lady friend as you are one of his brilliant evocations of the Stones in concert or on the prowl.

With the exception of that first Esquire article, a virtuoso effort of third-person sculpting, virtually the whole of the Stanley Booth canon is, in one sense or another, autobiographical. Though here and there a reader or critic may have carped at the method, with its component of Booth zingers and quips, picaresque moments, and wholly personal recollections, it generally works to its author’s purposes, though I have always thought its enforced absence from the Presley article is what made for a clean launch of Stanley’s career.

An ironic after-effect was that, when Elvis died in 1977 and it came time for me to do my own tribute to the King, published in Memphis magazine (then called City of Memphis) as “Elvis: End of an Era,” I deemed it advisable to eschew the first person, a fact that redounded to the credit of my piece, too, which I believe has also achieved some stature, though not to the scale and circulation of Stanley’s.

Incidentally, my other direct (and very temporary) involvement with a Booth opus would come in 1982 when Stanley, still struggling to fulfill a contract for a book that was already more than a decade overdue, found himself surrounded by unassembled masses of typescript of Stones material, including complete histories of the band and its members and memorable experiences with it and them, especially on the fateful 1969 tour that ended at an Altamont, California, free concert maimed by murder and mayhem at the hands of the Hell’s Angels.

I volunteered my help on the editing side, and he entrusted me with the seeming thousands of pages, along with an authorizing letter. To my later regret, and probably to his ultimate benefit, I procrastinated on the awesome task of collation, and he retrieved the whole mass of materials and bore down all the harder on the task of making a book out of them. It was a truly sink-or-swim effort, and within a year’s time — aided, he has said, by structural advice from the old Beat writer William Burroughs — the final mammoth manuscript of The True Adventures of the Rolling Stones was finally ready, justly to be called a classic, though it bore the unhelpful title Dance with the Devil when first published by Random House in 1984.

Now available in various editions under its original title, the book compellingly renders not only its stated subject and the ethos of the ’60s but contains unique insights on the nature of humanity and life itself on every page. It’s a hell of a read.

But the true adventures of Stanley Booth himself had, as mentioned, stranded him in a kind of limbo of late. Though he would occasionally be summoned forth as a sort of human artifact, as when he gave a well-received reading from his work at the Stax Museum in October, he was largely home-bound in his residence on North Idlewild, living a kind of hermit life within its walls, overseen by large framed photographs of Lash LaRue by his friend Bill Eggleston.

In his youth, Stanley had been quick and agile, the possessor of a black belt in karate. Now he was not only stranded without wheels, on those occasions when he did get about, he was still dapper but traveled slowly, aided by a cane, a white-maned gentleman severely hobbled by rheumatoid arthritis. The prospect, born of desperation, of his going to live in a cave in Arkansas, was sheer folly, a gallant affectation but just that, an affectation. But his mind still ground on, exceeding fine, anticipating new opportunity and waiting out adversity, like a lion in winter. His pride was fully preserved.

I took him to a restaurant some months ago, and when another diner, a young woman, approached our table, brandishing some cards and asking, “Do y’all know what tarot is?” his prickly side emerged. “Do I look like a child?” he thundered, insulted by the woman’s presumption and forcing her to retreat.

More recently, however, on the day after he was told by his agent that his new collection, Red Hot and Blue, had been accepted for publication, he got further good news when a gentleman in Adelaide called him and asked him if he would consider traveling to Australia and delivering a series of readings in the cities of that continental nation, to the tune of, say, “ten to twenty grand.”

We went out to eat a couple of times this past weekend, and Stanley was courtliness itself to the waitpeople and passers-by. After an evening at The Green Beetle, the South Main bistro once frequented by the late Dewey Phillips, he told a young husky-voiced waitress that she ought to “cut a blues record, right now.”

On the way to his home, he told me something I hadn’t known and would never have expected, that he had converted to Catholicism some 30 years ago and, in so doing, had experienced “the greatest pleasure of my life … a complete redesign.” I dropped him off at his house, where we did a hand-slap of farewell, and he said, “I’m 76 years old, very happy to have survived to this point, and I ain’t mad at nobody.”

An article about Memphis photographer Bill Eggleston from Booth’s forthcoming new collection, Red Hot and Blue, will be soon published in the Flyer‘s sister publication, Memphis magazine.

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Music Music Features

Memphis’ Lost Decade of Bohemia and Music

For many Americans, the death of Elvis Presley in 1977 marked the end of an age of innocence in rock-and-roll. But it had more significance in Memphis, a capstone on a series of events that decimated the musical momentum the city had gathered in previous decades.

Pat Rainer, who documented those times in her photography, puts it this way: “Stax was bankrupt, Beale Street was boarded up, the major record labels had moved out, and it was like, ‘Wait a minute! We’re still here!’ Jim Dickinson coined the phrase that what we did was ‘guerrilla video’ or ‘guerrilla recording.’ I was his disciple, and I would have walked the fires of hell for him.”

Pat Rainer at Graceland the day after Elvis died

Rainer, a Memphis native who studied radio, TV, and film production at Memphis State University, was dissatisfied with academia and struck out on her own, working in record stores and falling in with a tight-knit community of bohemians and creators who came to define the post-Elvis era. She worked at the Yellow Submarine record shop on Poplar, whose owner, Jim Blake, would eventually start the maverick independent label, Barbarian Records. “Blake founded the company when Dickinson told him, ‘You know, you should make a record of Jerry Lawler and sell it at the wrestling matches.’ And I saw a light bulb go off over Blake’s head. The three of us kinda pitched in together, but Blake was the figurehead.”

The Lawler records sold, helping to fund hours of recording sessions by Dickinson, Lesa Aldridge, the Klitz, and others — mostly unreleased. The label was emblematic of a whole scene germinating through the 1970s. “It was a community of artists who all worked in concert with one another, whether it was the musicians or the sculptors or the painters or the photographers or whatever. Our little group of people included Dickinson, [Sid] Selvidge, Lee Baker, Mud Boy, Alex [Chilton], John Fry, Knox Phillips, Bill Eggleston, and Tav [Falco]. We all wanted to create art. I just kinda fell into photography.”

Now, we’re all the beneficiaries of Rainer’s chosen path, as the Stax Museum of American Soul Music opens Rainer’s exhibit, “Chaos and the Cosmos: Inside Memphis Music’s Lost Decade, 1977-1986,” this Friday.

Sam Phillips

“There’s great pictures of Sam Phillips,” Rainer says. “There’s pictures of Willie Mitchell and Al Green in the control room at Hi; Knox and Jerry in the control room at Phillips; Alex and Jim in the studio; Johnny Woods and Furry [Lewis] when we recorded the Beale Street record.”

That 1978 record marked a turning point, where the fringe took up the mantle as guardians of both past and future. “I mean, think of what would have happened if we hadn’t fought to keep them from letting the Orpheum be bought by the Jehovah’s Witnesses!” Rainer exclaims. “And there’s a big thanks due Jim, because he went down there to those guys at the Memphis Development Foundation and struck a deal to make this Beale Street Saturday Night record to raise money to restore the Orpheum.”

It was that concert that seemed to chart the course for independent music-makers in the city. While Mud Boy, Chilton, and Falco ultimately became guiding stars of the “guerrilla” music that has come to define 21st century Memphis, there was little inkling of such possibilities at the time. “Looking back on it,” says Rainer, “it still blows my mind.”

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Music Music Features

Jim Lauderdale Renews His Memphis Ties

When songwriter Jim Lauderdale takes the stage at the new listening room in the Old Dominick Distillery this week, it will renew a long but under-recognized relationship he’s had with Memphis.

While he’s played gigs here since the early 1990s, his ties to the city go deeper.

That becomes obvious as he lists some of the Memphians he’s worked with, including drummers Chad Cromwell and Greg Morrow and banjo player Richard Bailey. But sessions at the late Jim Dickinson’s Zebra Ranch Studio in Mississippi were what led him even deeper into the Memphis Sound. After cutting his Black Roses album, written in cahoots with former Grateful Dead lyricist Robert Hunter, and featuring Cody and Luther Dickinson, David Hood, and Spooner Oldham, he ran into Luther in Nashville.

“I was intending to do a country thing at the old RCA Studio A the next day,” he recalls, “and I thought it was an omen when I ran into Luther. I said ‘Hey, let’s check and see if Cody’s available.’ He was, and we got some other guys together, and were about halfway through that album when Luther said, ‘Man, you really ought to finish that soul stuff at Royal [Studios].’ So, I flew in, and Boo [Mitchell] let me use the old control room to write. I went in the next day, and there were Luther and Cody, Boo, Alvin Youngblood Hart, and Charles and Leroy Hodges. After the first song went down, I finally relaxed — I was terrified of working with these great guys!”

Those sessions, begun in Nashville and finished in Memphis, became the double album, Soul Searching, with a disc named for each city. The “Memphis” slice of the record features songs that, despite Lauderdale’s signature alt-country baritone drawl, evoke nothing so much as classic 1960s horn-driven soul. But that shouldn’t come as a surprise to his fans. Lauderdale has always had eclectic influences. Early in his career, he dove deep into bluegrass, harmonizing with Ralph Stanley and recording his first (still unreleased) album with mandolinist Roland White. He’s also toured and co-written with Nick Lowe and Elvis Costello. The common thread was a love of beautifully crafted songs.

A few years ago, Lauderdale found himself in London. “I wanted to go to a different place and just kinda catch the vibe over there. Like I do when I come to Memphis. I just kinda soak in something that’s in the air.” He cut a record with Lowe’s touring band and co-producer/engineer Neil Brockbank, but it sat on the shelf before being released last year as London Southern. The results, like Lauderdale’s songwriting itself, shied away from the obvious. Instead of nods to Liverpool or London, what emerged was, well, more soul music. “Those musicians over there grew up listening to the same thing,” notes Lauderdale. “They just live in a different place. And they’re really great players.”

His work in London, oddly enough, brought him around yet again to the Bluff City. “I got to co-write with Dan Penn. He’s a hero of mine, and we have a couple co-writes on London Southern. That’s another guy who I really wanna hook up with and write some more.”

It’s not that Lauderdale has moved away from his roots in classic country, bluegrass, or folk. It’s more that he sees all of it as a continuum of the American songwriting tradition. As an important figure in the Nashville-based Americana Music Association (AMA), he applauds the inclusion of soul in the “Americana” category, by both the AMA and the Grammys. And he applies this hybrid approach to his own work.

Referring to more (still-unfinished) sessions he did at Royal Studios last year, Lauderdale notes, “We ran out of time on this batch, but sometime I wanna come back and also add some pedal steel guitar to some things. Kinda do that country-soul blend.” And, he adds, he wants to work again with Memphis musicians. “There seems to be a camaraderie and not a competitive thing going there. The musicians that I’ve met are just real. They’re into the music and not overly concerned about the superficial stuff.”

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Book Features Books

Memoir chronicles the life and times and music of Jim Dickinson

As a tourist on the Dickinson Delta Musical Expedition, the decision of where to stop on your journey will be a difficult one. Baylor University? East Memphis? Muscle Shoals? West Memphis? Miami? Hollywood? Where will you climb out of that “canary-yellow Ford Torino with racing stripes, a full race cam, and three on the tree” to walk around and stretch your legs a bit?

Linger. Take in the sights. But get ready to move again, because your road map is Jim Dickinson’s long-awaited memoir I’m Just Dead, I’m Not Gone (University Press of Mississippi; with Ernest Suarez), and it is a Benzedrine-fueled romp with one hell of a soundtrack.

I first came to know of Dickinson as the pianist on “Wild Horses” off the Rolling Stones’ 1971 album Sticky Fingers. I knew that he produced The Replacements’ 1987 album Pleased to Meet Me at Ardent Studios.

But I knew little else until I jumped on the ride that is this book.

Though he was born in Little Rock and grew up mostly in the Berclair and East Memphis neighborhoods of Memphis, Dickinson’s musical journey took him through the dusty notes of Texas blues as a student at Baylor where his interests lay in the theater arts, in drugs and alcohol, and in chasing down the ghosts of heroes and legends such as Blind Lemon Jefferson. “There was no doorway to the past,” he writes. “No Rosetta Stone to unlock the blues’ secrets.” Yet, it was in chasing those specters that he came to know himself and what it was he was passionate about.

He spent his formative years in Texas and at then-Memphis State University avoiding the Vietnam draft and honing a craft he wasn’t yet sure how to utilize. Like so many young men and hopeful musicians from his era, it was a folksy Jewish boy from Minnesota who would turn Dickinson’s world on end. Bob Dylan completed what Elvis Presley, Little Richard, and Furry Lewis had begun. His education began in earnest at places such as the Plantation Inn in West Memphis and even closer to home. “I discovered a burgeoning bohemian scene at the Cottage Coffee House in Midtown. The Cottage served coffee, featured poetry readings, and flamenco guitar music. There was a chess game in the corner. It was a great place to hang.”

Dickinson’s book is a history of white-boy blues, folk, and rock-and-roll in Memphis. He paid his dues at the Cottage Coffee House, the OSO, and the Bitter Lemon and spending time with other misfits at Beatnik Manor. He conceived of the Memphis Folk Festival and the Memphis Country Blues Festival, both at the Overton Park Shell.

He made his bones recording with Larry Raspberry and the Gentrys at Chips Moman’s American Sound Studios. It was the gig that opened his eyes to the possibility (the magic) of producing records. His big break came as a producer at Criteria Studios in Miami for Atlantic Records. It was there that he put together the house band the Dixie Flyers and recorded such acts as Aretha Franklin, Delaney & Bonnie, Sam the Sham, and Carmen McRae alongside industry legends Jerry Wexler and Tom Dowd.

Dickinson would later return to Memphis, where he was most at home, with jaunts to Los Angeles and New York as his talents were needed. What we learn from the journey is that it isn’t so much the locations but the people who populate them. This singer/songwriter/producer/misfit knew everybody, and if you recognize half of the names, then you’re probably in the book as well. A companion tome with bios and discographies of all the names Dickinson drops would serve the reader well. But no matter how many colleagues and compatriots he mentions, there’s one that’s the most important and that shines through chapter after chapter: Mary Lindsay, his wife and partner in crime. Their marriage was the one adventure that ever really mattered to him.

The adventure ends too soon. Dickinson died in 2009 at the age of 67 following triple bypass surgery. With him, he took a wealth of music history and knowledge, but what he left — the music, the stories, the rambling good times — will keep us entertained forever.

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Cover Feature News

Rockin’ the Halls

“I have gladly given my life to Memphis music, and it has given me back a hundred-fold. It has been my fortune to know truly great men and hear the music of the spheres. May we all meet again at the end of the trail.” — Excerpted from the last words of Jim Dickinson.

Justin Fox Burks

The ceiling of the hallway leading to the museum’s second-floor space is lined with guitars that point the way to the exhibits.

Jim Dickinson liked to “watch shit rot.” Those are Dickinson’s own colorful words, of course. The storied producer, musician, Memphis Music Hall of Fame inductee, and provocateur, always placed “decomposition” at the heart of his personal aesthetic. He believed you could hear the sounds of decay in the songs he recorded with Alex Chilton and Big Star. You could see it represented visually in the paintings he labored over, then left outdoors for nature to complete.

Until very recently, visitors to Dickinson’s Zebra Ranch recording studio, were encouraged to touch a broken-down piano decomposing in the yard. In its former life, the crumbling instrument, propped up on cinder blocks like some old jalopy and covered in filth and leaves, had belonged to the Stax recording studio. It was in the building when Isaac Hayes and David Porter were songwriting partners cranking out hits like “Soul Man,” and “Wrap it Up.” It was there when Booker T. and the MG’s was the Stax house band, and when Otis Redding wrote “(Sittin’ On) The Dock of the Bay.”

Dickinson’s widow, Mary Lindsay Dickinson, says some people understood her husband’s fondness for decay. It also made a lot of people angry to see a beautiful piece of music history left out in the weather to fall apart.

Justin Fox Burks

Jim Dickinson’s piano detail.

Justin Fox Burks

Jim Dickinson’s piano

John Doyle, executive director of the Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum, describes what’s left of the old Stax piano as, “a piece of Jim Dickinson’s soul.” He says it’s a perfect example of the kinds of things a visitor can expect to find on display at the Memphis Memphis Music Hall of Fame museum, which opens for business this week at the corner of Second and Beale, in a cozy two-story space nestled between the newly relocated Hard Rock Cafe and Lansky Bros. Clothier to the King. The exhibits are primarily on the second floor, where the Lansky brothers once stored their formal wear. It’s the place where Johnny Cash was taken after he came to Bernard Lansky brandishing a Prince Albert tobacco tin, wanting to buy a black frock coat just like the prince’s. “That may be the beginning of the ‘Man in Black,”‘ Doyle speculates.
Justin Fox Burks

John Doyle, Executive director of the Memphis Music Hall of Fame, shows off a few of the museum’s treasures including Jerry Lee Lewis’ Cadillac, Johnny Cash’s black suit, and an original Elvis jumpsuit.

Although the two museums share administrative staff, the Memphis Music Hall of Fame isn’t Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum Jr. The latter Smithsonian-affiliated museum, located in the FedExForum, has been telling the story of Memphis music for the past 15 years. The Memphis Music Hall of Fame has only been inducting members since 2012. Its new brick-and-mortar facility will give visitors a chance to spend some digitally interactive quality time with the legendary heroes of Memphis music.
Justin Fox Burks

A customized emblem on Jerry Lee Lewis’ Cadillac.

“I asked myself, if I had the opportunity to hang out with the musicians we’re inducting each year, what would that cocktail party be like?” Doyle says, explaining his vision for the Hall of Fame exhibit. “I’m pretty sure it would not look like the Smithsonian. It would probably be weird. So we’re positioning the Memphis Music Hall of Fame as a museum where our exhibits are as outrageous as our inductees.”
Justin Fox Burks

John Doyle, executive director of the Memphis Music Hall of Fame, discusses the layout of a large case with Pam Parham, director of operations.

That explains decorative touches like a ceiling hung with St. Blues guitars and the full-sized piano suspended upside down and transformed into an enormous light fixture. That’s also the philosophy behind both Dickinson’s decomposing keyboard, and a lifelike python built to accompany Larry Dodson’s costumes in the eye-popping Bar-Kays exhibit.
Justin Fox Burks

John Doyle, executive director of the Memphis Music Hall of Fame, stands art the top of the stairs where a glowing piano stands in for a traditional light fixture.

“In Europe, they’re protecting Rembrandts,” Doyle says. “In Memphis, we’re protecting a pink shorts set with a cape that Rufus Thomas wore at WattStax. It is the funkiest-looking thing ever. But in Memphis it becomes an art museum treasure.”

Additional treasures collected in the Hall of Fame include an acoustic guitar that belonged to Memphis street sweeper and blues legend Furry Lewis. The well-documented guitar is on loan from a North Dakota collector, as is the original guitar case on which Lewis painted his name.

The seeds that grew into the Memphis Music Hall of Fame were planted in 2007, when Doyle asked his Rock ‘n’ Soul board to brainstorm new ways for the museum to enhance its mission to tell the Memphis music story and grow beyond the walls of the FedExForum. It was Memphis Convention & Visitors Bureau President Kevin Kane who first suggested the idea of opening a hall of fame. The concept was an immediate hit, although nobody seemed to know for sure what form such an entity might take. “It could be a chicken dinner we have every year, with special performances and trophies,” Doyle says. “It might be a public art installation somewhere downtown. Or a comprehensive website with music and pictures.” Doyle thought a new off-site exhibit would be cost-prohibitive. Then, about a week after the hall’s first induction ceremony, Memphis Mayor A C Wharton approached the Rock ‘n’ Soul director with news that Beale Street’s Hard Rock Cafe was moving from its original location on the eastern stretch of Beale, into the old Lansky’s building. The club, Wharton said, was looking to partner with a museum.

“As the executive director, my heart sank,” Doyle jokes. “I could tell this was going to mean a lot of work.” With nearly six million visitors annually, Beale Street is Tennessee’s largest tourist destination, and although it’s home to the W.C. Handy House and Museum, there’s no visitor center where people can find out about the Memphis Zoo or the Stax Museum of American Soul Music or the newly opened Blues Hall of Fame on South Main or anything else.

“We felt like we could assist in doing all that by having a presence here,” Doyle says. Between the licensing appropriate music and photos and the hiring of top-notch music writers and designers, the Memphis Music Hall of Fame’s website was costing the Rock ‘n’ Soul museum $90,000 a year. “That’s a good-size burden for a not-for-profit museum,” Doyle says. “Fortunately, because of our relationship with the Memphis Grizzlies and because of our location at the FedExForum, we’ve been able to sustain that and grow our mission outside the walls they provide for us.”

Even in a tourist-rich zone like Beale Street, that kind of “assist” might not sound like a big deal. But Memphis music tourism is already on the rise and Elvis Presley’s Graceland Public Relations Director Kevin Kern thinks the new Hall of Fame will only help to promote that upward trend. “[It] will add to our story, while expanding the list of options for the traveler to keep them in town,” Kern says. Memphis, he adds, has finally grown into something “more than a long weekend destination.”

More than 600,000 tour Graceland annually, making it Memphis’ second largest music-related destination after Beale Street, and the second-most-visited residence in America after the White House. More than 150,000 people visit Sun Studio annually, and another 60,000 tour the Rock ‘n’ Soul museum and the Stax Museum of American Soul Music.  

Tim Sampson, communications director for the Soulsville Foundation, agrees with Kern. “Our attendance at Stax is way up,” he says. “We’ve got people here in the museum from every continent every single day.”

Sampson welcomes the new Memphis Music Hall of Fame, just as he welcomed the Blues Hall of Fame, which opened in May. He credits the recent boom in music tourism to the fact that music-related destinations are more collaborative than competitive. He also believes that additions to the landscape such as music-related murals and an increasing number of historical markers and museums also help the Memphis tourism industry.

Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul hit 60,000 tourists annually in 2013, and had its best month ever in April. Each subsequent month has broken previous records. Doyle thinks this is strong evidence that the stage is perfectly set for a facility like the Memphis Music Hall of Fame.

“There is no other city in America that can host its own music Hall of Fame,” Doyle boasts. “Some states can. Alabama has one. Texas has one. But Memphis is the epicenter of American music.

“When we first sat down and started coming up with the names of potential inductees it was so easy,” Doyle says. “There was Jerry Lee Lewis, Elvis Presley, Otis Redding, Rufus Thomas, Al Green, Isaac Hayes, The Staple Singers, and on and on. In that first evening, we listed 300 well-known performers from different musical traditions — jazz, blues, rural field-holler-type music, jug bands, rock ‘n’ roll, rockabilly, gospel, R&B, rap, hip-hop. In a very short time, our list of potential inductees became enormous.”

On the morning before his latest documentary, Best of Enemies, was scheduled to screen in Los Angeles, author and Memphis music historian Robert Gordon offered some perspective regarding the potential of a Memphis Music Hall of Fame compared to other music towns.

“Lots of cities can say they’re home to a star,” he said. “Buddy Holly’s from Lubbock, Texas, for example. And so is Waylon Jennings.  So they can make a little Buddy Holly shrine in Lubbock. But Memphis? What decade do you want to talk about? What musical genre?

“People ask how can it be possible that Carl Perkins wasn’t selected until the third year of the Memphis Hall of Fame?” says Gordon. “He’s the first guy to have a number-one record on the pop, country, and R&B charts at the same time,” Gordon says. “And that frustrates some people. It’s something we should celebrate. Our music history has been so rich that we can not induct Carl Perkins until the third year, because each year we’ve wanted to recognize our musical diversity.

“What I want to know is, when will Booker Little get into the Hall of Fame?” Gordon asks, rhetorically. Even though Little died young and his name isn’t a household word, his contributions were significant. It may be next year or 10 years from now, but the Manassas graduate and hard-bop trumpet innovator who performed alongside John Coltrane will eventually be enshrined alongside the better known heroes of Sun, Hi, and Stax.

The answer doesn’t matter, Gordon finally concludes, because the Hall of Fame isn’t a popularity contest.

In a telephone interview, Mary Lindsay Dickinson remembered the day the big truck with “Amro” painted on the side pulled up to the family’s Zebra Ranch recording studio in Coldwater, Mississippi. It had come to take her late husband’s special piano to its final resting place in the Memphis Music Hall of Fame. “There are no better piano movers in the world, I don’t think,” she said. But in spite of their expert handling, the wooden portions of the once-fine instrument fell into shreds as the movers lifted it from its resting place. “It had rotted completely,” Dickinson said, unable to conceal her delight that her late husband Jim had gotten exactly what he wanted.

Spooner Oldham, the great keyboard player, known for his work with Bob Dylan and Aretha Franklin, described Dickinson’s piano as the perfect metaphor for both mortality and immortality. He told Mary Lindsay that even when the wooden bits on the outside had returned to ashes and dust, “there will still be a harp inside.”

“And a harp is what was left,” Dickinson said, reiterating Doyle’s desire to collect edgy artifacts. “The harp was left. And when it finally goes up in the hall of fame it will be the oddest, ugliest, and most unique exhibit in any museum anywhere in the world.”

The Memphis Music Hall of Fame opens to the public on July 27th at 126 Second. Hours of operation will be 10 a.m.-7 p.m. 205-2532 memphismusichalloffame.com/