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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Vishwesh Bhatt Wins James Beard Award

Vishwesh Bhatt of Snackbar in Oxford, MS, has been nominated six times for a James Beard Award for Best Chef South. As it turns out, the sixth time is the charm. Last night, in Chicago, Bhatt took home the medal.

Tell me how the evening went down?
I’ve gotten pretty used to not hearing my name. And then I heard a name that clearly wasn’t one of the four [other chefs].

You didn’t have any inkling that this was your year?
I felt pretty good about it. I mean, you know, I felt good about it every year.

You’re one of five people, so the odds are always good. But it’s really hard to tell whose name will be called because they are all really good chefs and we’re all friends.

Do you have any pre-ceremony rituals?
No, no.

We traveled with a group of people wanting to come up. They had more of a feeling than I did. So I had a nice, nice group of coworkers and friends who came up from Oxford.

And so we don’t really have a ritual. We went and had a really nice meal as a group, as family. Then everybody kind of just took it easy in the morning. We all met
before the awards and had a couple of cocktails across the street. I mean, that’s sort of a tradition because there’s this restaurant that’s across the street from
the Opera House. It’s nice and quiet, right? That time of the day. And so we just go and have a couple of cocktails and then we walk across the street. So that’s what we did.

How do you establish an identity within the John Currence empire?
A lot of the credit goes to John for letting me express myself and letting me experiment with recipes or ingredients. If I had an idea, he was always encouraged me. Always.

Yeah, so that gave me confidence to try more stuff.

In the beginning, I would run it by him. And, finally, after doing this for a while, now we both have enough confidence. We’ve been working together for 20 years.

How do you describe what you make?
What I make is Southern food. At first glance, it may appear to be [something] you would not have seen in grandma’s kitchen or church picnics, but those are the influences. That’s sharing food with friends and family. That’s what I grew up with.

How do you remain challenged and excited about what you do?
This is my passion. This is what I do for a living. So every day, you want to make people happy. You want to make sure that what you’re putting on a plate in front of somebody is going to make them happy because, you know, otherwise, you don’t have a job. So that in and of itself is a challenge and especially when, you know, we’re talking about a restaurant where two or 300 people come through, you’re trying to make them all happy. It’s a challenge.

Oxford’s is a small enough pond where I run into folks that come in to eat. If they didn’t like something there, they tell me that.

When you were a kid and first arrived in Austin at age 17 from India, was this sort of the vision you had for yourself?
I did not. I didn’t really know I was going to be cooking for living until I started working at City Grocery

I wanted to be a bureaucrat. I thought that was the greatest thing in the world.

Vishwesh Bhatt will cook at the Oxford Bourbon Festival and Auction, set for May 24th and 25th at the Vaught Hemingway Stadium. The event is a fund-raiser for Move On Up Mississippi.

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Opinion The Last Word

In Search of True Grits

My friend Desi is a Southerner stuck in Chicago for 20 years now. He pines for, well, pines. Specifically the piney woods of Mississippi where we grew up. I periodically remind him about humidity, the fact that the bugs are going to be big enough this summer to saddle and ride to work, and that our legislators are more interested in our bathroom habits than paved roads.

I’m not trying to talk him out of it; I’m being realistic. After 20 years the memories of home are more of the misty, water-colored variety. CRAWFISH! SPIDER LILIES! SCREEN DOORS! But I would love for him to move to Memphis so I’d have an opportunity to make him some shrimp and grits. Mine are outstanding.

Bhofack2 | Dreamstime.com

Shrimp and grits

There is a chicken recipe which has been printed and reprinted and shared a million times. It’s called Engagement Chicken, and it first appeared in Glamour magazine about 30 years ago. Supposedly your boyfriend will propose to you after eating this chicken. I’ve not made this particular chicken, but I’ve made roast chicken with lemon. That’s what this is.

I don’t want to say bad things about this chicken, but I generally eschew any item of food, clothing, or scent that purports to be a marriage trap. It is my foolish belief that marriage is a sacred institution into which both parties should be scared witless to commit themselves. Having said that, I’m aware my husband and I are married because of my shrimp and grits.

We courted each other by fixing dinner. Fast forward a few years, and Chuck’s birthday was approaching. He wanted shrimp and grits. I did not have my own recipe, but I knew there was only one place to go: Oxford. I used John Currence’s recipe as my base. I changed it up a little, but my deepest held conviction about shrimp and grits is that the closest a tomato should get to it is in the salad you serve on the side. Yada yada yada, we were married four months later.

I don’t tell that story so that desperate young women will sear millions of pounds of shrimp in an attempt to walk down the aisle via an unsuspecting stomach. No, I tell this story because I like to take every opportunity I can to brag about my shrimp and grits and because Desi sent me a recipe for a dish which uses — siddown, this is big — instant grits. I KNOW! I clutched my pearls, too.

Listen, I’m not going to lie. I’m down with the quick-cooking grits even though, honestly, no kind of grits takes that long to make. But instant? ARE WE ANIMALS? I looked at the comments about this dish expecting to hear a chorus of disdain for instant grits, and there was some of that. But the singers hitting the back of the house were doing so with an old-fashioned grits bashing.

Gross! Grits are disgusting! Shrimp with grits?! To you grits-bashers out there I say, shuddup. Do you eat polenta? Of course you do. Polenta is faincy. A fancy name for grits. It’s all corn mush!

So those — ugh! — tubes of polenta you get in the produce section and take home to be all international? Why? You wouldn’t buy a pre-made tube of oatmeal would you? It’s all mush like every farmer has eaten for centuries in this country, Europe, Africa, and I could go on.

This is humble food we’re talking about. The great thing about it is that you can dress it up with vegetables, or cheese, or lots of cheese, or cheese and lots of garlic. And you can, I suppose, eat it with cream and sugar, but I don’t know why you’d want to. If you are so inclined as I was, make what the cooking magazine referred to as braised short ribs and root vegetables on a bed of Stilton polenta and garnished with gremolata, but I knew was just pot roast with cheese grits and garnished with lemon zest and parsley.

Maybe the problem isn’t the grits themselves; it’s food with such working-class ties. Eating hand-cut buttermilk scones with Vermont cheddar pimento cheese and house-cured ham is a whole different experience than serving cathead biscuits with your mama’s pimento cheese and country ham. One is not better than the other. You may be more comfortable eating catfish goujons with capered aioli and black-eyed pea caviar, but it’s still fried catfish with tartar sauce and black-eyed pea salad.

Do you really want to associate with people who are so filled with first-world ennui they can’t enjoy a damn bowl of grits? Such people should be thumped soundly and percussively upon the gourd.

Besides, as Desi reminded me, “Telling someone to ‘kiss my polenta’ just doesn’t have the same effect.”

Susan Wilson writes for yeahandanotherthing.com and likethedew.com. She and her husband Chuck have lived here long enough to know that Midtown does not start at Highland.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Big Bad Pop Ups to Return

Oxford super chef John Currence is bringing back the Big Bad Pop Ups at City Grocery

The pop up restaurants are set by theme, with menus of low-cost small plates designed by City Grocery folks and visiting chefs: 

Monday-Tuesday, January 19-20
The “Sleepy Dragon Project”
City Grocery Restaurant Group previews a American-Chinese menu they have been toying with.

Monday-Tuesday, January 26-27
“Mumbai, Mississippi”
Chefs Vishwesh Bhatt and Asha Gomez, of Atlanta, make Southern-influenced Indian street food.

Monday-Tuesday, February 2-3
“Second Line 662”
Chef Kelly English previews dishes from his Oxford location of Second Line, set to open late spring 2015.

Monday-Tuesday, February 9-10
“The 132 Foot Journey”
City Grocery welcomes neighbor and friend Corbin Evans of the Oxford Canteen for a taste of North Mississippi “Alley Food.”

The first Big Bad Pop Up, in 2013, was a time-filler of sorts. Currence put together the series while City Grocery was being renovated. This year’s pop ups, the third, will benefit the University of Mississippi Medical Center Children’s Hospital Fund. 

Categories
Memphis Gaydar News

Chef John Currence’s Big Gay Mississippi Protest Dinner

John Currence

  • John Currence

Buzzfeed posted a lengthy article by Wyatt Williams yesterday chronicling Oxford, Mississippi chef John Currence’s recent Big Gay Mississippi Welcome Table dinner in New York City.

You can read the full article here, but here’s a little background. Last month, the James Beard Award-winning chef from Oxford’s acclaimed City Grocery restaurant was invited by Mississippi Governor Phil Bryant to cook in New York City for a lunch meeting between the Mississippi Development Agency (MDA) and site selectors for major corporations. The goal of the luncheon was to woo these corporations to move some or all of their operations to Mississippi.

But Bryant had recently signed into law Mississippi’s Religious Freedom Restoration Act, which went into effect on July 1st and provides “that state action shall not substantially burden a person’s right to the exercise of religion.” Critics of the bill fear it will be used to protect business owners who choose to discriminate against LGBT customers by claiming that serving those customers would violate their religious freedom.

Currence has been outspoken about the bill. In a New York Times article, Currence was quoted as saying, “The law sends a terrible message about the state of consciousness in the state of Mississippi. We are not going to sit idly by and watch Jim Crow get revived in our state.”

But rather than turn down Bryant’s invitation to cook for the MDA dinner in New York City, Currence went through with lunch. But he, Memphis chef Kelly English, and a handful of other celebrity chefs scheduled a protest dinner called the Big Gay Mississippi Welcome Table the next day in New York City. The Buzzfeed story recounts that affair (hint: Morgan Freeman made an appearance) in splendid detail.

According to Williams’ story, when Bryant got word of Currence’s Big Gay Welcome Table, he wasn’t pleased. Here’s an excerpt:

The response from the governor’s office was swift. The morning the news broke about the Big Gay Mississippi Welcome Table, Currence said, “I got a phone call, a dressing down by the governor’s office — they wanted to know why I would embarrass the governor like this. And then it fucking dawned on me: You assholes don’t fucking talk to me like a sixth-grader in the principal’s office, I’m a 50-year-old man. More to the point, I’m on the right fucking side of this thing. All you assholes have to do is come to dinner.”

Categories
Memphis Gaydar News

Cocktails for Equality

Restaurant Iris

  • Restaurant Iris

Chef Kelly English is hosting a cocktail party at Restaurant Iris to raise money for the Tennessee Equality Project’s Political Action Committee on Sunday, May 18th from 5 to 7 p.m.

English will prepare hors d’oeuvres, and the bartenders will create special cocktails for the event. Funds raised will go to help TEP support candidates who support LGBT equality and safe school legislation to prevent bullying of LGBT students.

Tickets are $50 per person or $90 per couple and may be purchased at the door.

Kelly has been an outspoken supporter of LGBT equality. He’s also headlining at the Big Gay Mississippi Welcome Table Dinner in New York City on June 13th, along with chefs John Currence of Oxford’s City Grocery and Art Smith, who owns restaurants from Chicago to Atlanta. The chefs are joining forces to oppose Mississippi’s version of the “Turn the Gays Away” bill, which would enable businesses and individuals to refuse services to LGBT citizens on the grounds of religious freedom. Read more about that dinner on Hungry Memphis.

A similar bill was killed in committee in Tennessee earlier this year. Senator Brian Kelsey introduced the bill (and later withdrew his sponsorship), and at the time, English made headlines when he put a message on Facebook offering to host a fund-raiser dinner for anyone who would run against Kelsey in the next election.