I remember driving to Clarksdale, Mississippi, years ago to dine at the Madidi restaurant, because my old friend, David Krog, was executive chef.
He came into the dining room and asked me what I wanted to order. I said, “A steak, I guess.” He said, “No, you’re not. You’re going to get my lamb.”
Well, I hated lamb. But I did what he said. And it was over-the-top delicious. I can now eat lamb.
Well, Krog did it again last night. I’m not a big fan of scallops. But after trying his “Scallops and Mussels” at Dory, I’m a big fan of scallops. At least Krog’s scallops. The scallops come with herb risotto with citrus beurre blanc.
Krog and his wife, Amanda, are owners of Dory, where David is executive chef. They’ve just changed their menu from a tasting menu to a la carte. I visited the restaurant at a friends and family night August 2nd, before the menu change opens to the public tonight, August 3rd. Food people, including River Oaks chef Jose Gutierrez and his wife, Colleen DePete, were among the diners.
Well, the food, in addition to the scallops, was phenomenal.
Just so you know what to expect from the first Dory a la carte menu, here’s what my sister and I ordered:
“Heirloom Tomatoes” — Tomato broth, tarragon, olive oil.
“Foie Gras” (and you get a lot of it.)
“Black Oyster Mushrooms” — Masa, day cheese, fried shallot, fermented onion powder.
“Red Fish” — saffron brodo, beans, garlic scape mostardo.
And I had to have Krog’s incredible Parker House rolls. I could eat those all day long.
Finally, we tried both the desserts on the menu: “Aerated Lemon Curd” — vanilla sponge, almond lace — and “Sweet Corn Mousse” — corn mousse, corn caramel, masa tuile, and masa sugar. That was so good I had to order another one.
Dory sous chef Cobi Pollan created the dessert, which uses all the parts of corn except the husks. Nick Zorbino the restaurant’s bar and beverage manager, used the husks to create a spirit-free cocktail called “Medieval Times.” The husks are charred over a yakitori grill and the burnt husks turn into syrup using raw sugar.
I did go through a pot, and a little more of another one, of Dr. Bean’s French Press coffee. Regular. And I still slept like a baby.
Dory is at 716 West Brookhaven Circle, (901) 310-4290. Walk-ins welcome. Reservations encouraged because it’s a small space.
