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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

FOOD NEWS BITES: The Return of Karen Carrier’s “Dō Sushi Pop-Up”

Kona Strawberry Roll. It’s what a foodie’s dreams are made of.

It’s a sushi roll I had for the first time at Karen Carrier’s Dō Sushi Pop-Up, which she held two years ago. I can still taste this sweet-and-savory (my favorite) amazing concoction. I haven’t had one since.

The pop-up was held in Carrier’s Bar DKDC, which is at 964 Cooper Street next to her Beauty Shop Restaurant in Cooper-Young. She originally opened the space as Dō Sushi, a Japanese restaurant, in 2003.

Well, Carrier is doing another Dō Sushi Pop-Up from 4:30 p.m. until they run out of food Thursday, November 14th, at Bar DKDC.

Karen Carrier (Photo: Courtesy Karen Carrier)

And, yes, they are going to include the Kona Strawberry Roll. It’s made of crab, masago, seared walu, strawberry, and a sweet soy reduction. “It’s so good,” Carrier says.

Sam Cicci, a former colleague, is also a fan of the roll. “Honestly, it’s probably one of the best rolls I’ve had,” he says. “I usually prefer a more savory roll, but the way the crab and walu play off that light layer of sweetness from fresh strawberry slices, it’s so easy to gobble the whole thing up immediately.”

The spicy seared scallop roll, another popular sushi roll that Carrier will bring back for the pop-up, is made of crab, avocado, masago, and sriracha aioli. “It’s got that wonderful, smoky grilled flavor.”

Seven sushi rolls will be a featured, as well as other items like nigiri and sashimi. They also will feature cooked items, including crispy duck spring rolls with shiitake mushrooms.

The Dō Sushi story is wonderfully quirky. “We opened Beauty Shop in 2002. And I had to take over the space next door,” Carrier says.

She turned that space into a general store, where they sold Vespas, Giraudon men’s and women’s Italian shoes from New York City, Amy Downs hats, Dinstuhl’s candies, assorted cheeses, coffees, refurbished bikes from the 1950s that were hung in the windows, and prepared food to-go from Carrier’s Another Roadside Attraction catering. “We were so ahead of our time. If it opened 10 years later we would have been packed.”

So, Carrier said, “I can’t do this. Retail is not for me. I need to have a bar.”.

Her chef, Eric Doran, said to her, ‘Why don’t we open a sushi bar? We don’t need a vent hood.’”

“I said, ‘Perfect.’”

That was in January 2003. Joining her were Mindy Son and Stacey Kiehl. Carrier and Doran came up with the ideas for the sushi and she and Kiehl made them. She hired Brett “Shaggy” Duffee to do the hot food, including all duck spring rolls, crispy dumplings, and all the tempura items. 

“The sashimis, the raw fish, that was sort of my part. The sushi part I stayed out of.”

Carrier also served her mother’s matzoh ball soup, “Bobo’s Chicken Matzoh Ball Soup,” which was named one of the 10 best phos in the United States by Bon Appetit magazine, Carrier says. The soup is made with lokshen kugel. “I grew up with that stuff.”

About 10 years later, Carrier’s thoughts about selling sushi changed after she saw sushi being sold at the Exxon service station at Ridgeway Road and Poplar Avenue. “I said, ‘Oh, no, no, no, no.’ I came back to work at the Beauty Shop and I said, ‘I’m losing the bar.’”

There was just something about sushi being sold at a gas station that didn’t sit well with Carrier.

So, instead of the sushi bar, Carrier said, “I want a music club.”

She turned Dō Sushi into Bar DKDC, which is now a popular music venue. The name is an acronym for “Don’t know. Don’t care,” which was Carrier’s response when people asked her what she was going to call her new music club.

As most people know, Carrier can come up with a new idea and implement it at the drop of a hat. “I get bored.”

Also an artist, Carrier says her restaurants are “just art projects. They’re just paintings.”

And, she adds, “You’ve got to stay on the edge. You’ve got to stay current.”

Asked why it took two years to do another Dō Sushi Pop-Up, Carrier says, “Life happens. It just dawned on me, ‘Oh, man. I want some sushi.’”

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We Saw You with Karen Carrier Ep. 7

“Karen, what are you doing?”

Karen Carrier has heard that phrase more than once during her long, fascinating career.

If you’ve ever wondered about all the hair dryers in Cooper-Young’s Beauty Shop Restaurant, Carrier gives you the lowdown in the final We Saw You episode featuring the Memphis restaurateur/artist. And as a bonus, you’ll hear the history of her underground music club, Bar DKDC.

We’ll be back with more interviews with interesting Memphians and Mid-Southerners soon on We Saw You. But first, here’s Karen.

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We Saw You with Karen Carrier Ep. 6

 In this We Saw You episode, Karen Carrier, the Memphis artist and restaurateur who owns Beauty Shop Restaurant, DKDC, Mollie Fontaine Lounge, and Another Roadside Attraction catering, talks about meeting her husband, the late Bob Carrier. “I go to to New York to meet a guy from Memphis,” she says.

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We Saw You with Karen Carrier Ep. 5

This is one of my favorite episodes of the new We Saw You video series. Restaurateur/artist Karen Carrier tells me how she got into cooking. In the 1980s, she was living in New York, where she was going to go to graduate school. But she had to “figure out a way to make a living.”

You need to hear Carrier talk about all this. Her life sounds like a novel I’d like to read. And re-read.

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We Saw You with Karen Carrier Ep. 4

We continue our interview with restaurateur/artist Karen Carrier. This is episode four, which is part of the We Saw You video series — hosted by yours truly — about Memphians and Mid-Southerners.

In this episode, Carrier and I sat down at her home while she talked about her aunt, Gloria Sklen, who lived in New York. 

Sklen, who sounds like the eccentric bohemian Auntie Mame was a mosaic artist and “just wild,” Carrier says. “I was just mesmerized by her.”

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We Saw You with Karen Carrier Ep. 3

Karen Carrier talks about the late artist, Dorothy Sturm, in episode three of the We Saw You video series about Memphians and Mid-Southerners.

I sat down with Carrier in her amazing art-filled home, which also houses her grand piano, and we talked. It was fun to chat with Carrier, who I always say is the hippest person in Memphis. The owner of  Beauty Shop Restaurant, DKDC, Mollie Fontaine Lounge, and Another Roadside Attraction catering business, graduated from the old Memphis Academy of Arts, which later became Memphis College of Art.

Carrier is right on when she describes Sturm: “She’s just wild.” I was fortunate to get to interview Sturm 40 or so years ago when I was at the old Memphis Press-Scimitar newspaper.

Memphians were so fortunate to have an artist of her prestige living and working here. Carrier and Sturm became close friends, and you can hear a few stories from that heady time in our interview.

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We Saw You with Karen Carrier Ep. 2

Memphis restaurateur/artist Karen Carrier never ceases to amaze me. She and I sat down recently for an interview for We Saw You — a new video series about Memphis and Mid-Southerners hosted by me. She told me about the time she met Salvador Dali. 

Dali? Excuse me?

Yes! It’s the kind of amazing story you’d expect Carrier to have in her vast repertoire.

The story is part two of a six-part series on the noted chef/owner of Beauty Shop Restaurant, DKDC, Mollie Fontaine Lounge, and Another Roadside Attraction catering.

Stay tuned for more from Karen Carrier on We Saw You!

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We Saw You with Karen Carrier Ep. 1

We Saw You — a new video series about Memphis and Mid-Southerners hosted by yours truly — continues with a seven-part series about restaurateur Karen Carrier, owner of Beauty Shop Restaurant, DKDC, Mollie Fontaine Lounge, and Another Roadside Attraction Catering.

I visited Carrier in her eclectic, art-filled home, where, in this first installment we talk a bit about food. In future episodes, viewers will learn more about how Carrier’s culinary career, and her life as a visual artist.

And she can play the piano!

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News

My Last Visit With Shea Grauer

I hadn’t seen Shea Grauer in a long time. So, I was happy to see him when we were both working a bridal luncheon Friday, February 17th, at Mollie Fontaine Lounge. He was bartending and I was playing the piano.

Around 1 p.m. I tried to get Grauer’s attention at the piano. I said something like, “Hey! Look here!” He turned around and we both laughed. I told him how sorry I was about his brother, Beau, who was killed last summer. I asked him how he was doing. He said he was doing okay. But he looked sad. I told him I lost my older brother years ago.

I think he told me I sounded good on the piano. He was smiling.

That was probably the last live piano music Grauer heard. He lost his life about 12 hours later. It was reported he was killed in Midtown. A robbery.

I didn’t find that out until I saw a Facebook post from his great friend, Leanna Tedford, that next afternoon. I was stunned. Like everybody who knew him.

I started thinking about how Grauer and I had known each other over the decades. I originally knew him from bartending. He made many a Beefeater gin martini “up with three olives” — as I requested them — back in the day.

Grauer was just one of those people you liked even if you weren’t a close friend. He was laid-back. He had a great sense of humor. And he had a great sense of style. He was wearing a bulky black-and-white and maybe gray sweater when we talked at the luncheon. I wondered if he was wearing that sweater that night.

I wanted to write a story and post a photo of Grauer, but the only one I almost definitely remember taking of him was at a party in October 2019 at The Beauty Shop Restaurant, where he was manager/bartender. I’m sure I took more photos of him over the decades we knew each other, but I couldn’t find any of them. This particular party was held by his boss/best buddy/biggest champion Karen Carrier, the restaurant’s owner, to open Back Dō at Mi Yard, her open-air restaurant behind The Beauty Shop Restaurant. 

The opening party turned into a party for the cast and crew of Bluff City Law, which was filmed in Memphis. Everybody, including me, wanted to have their photo taken with Jimmy Smits. 

The original party was supposed to end at 8 p.m., but Carrier kept it going until 10 p.m. because so many of her staff worked on the movie. Grauer was one of them. I still remember how proud he was of that. He went on to work in the film industry in New Orleans. 

Then on Thursday, February 23rd, I got a text from Allison Cox with a photo of me she had taken with the bridal party at the Mollie Fontaine luncheon. The luncheon was for Sophie Cox, now Sophie Terrell, who married Henry Terrell. I asked Allison if she, by any chance, had any photos with Grauer in them. She did.

 Of course, I instantly thought Grauer had something to do with finding a never-before-published photo of himself to go with my story.

Here’s information that Carrier posted on social media about the funeral arrangements and an event to celebrate Grauer’s life:

“The celebration and funeral for our love SHEA GRAUER will be on April 1st at 11 a.m. at Immaculate Conception on Central — a huge Wake at The Beauty Shop and DKDC to follow as it should be — we will send him off in style with tears, music, food, libations, and of course Dolly Parton and a second line —

“Yes this is on April Fools Day and I think it’s perfect. He will love it —

“Wrap your love around SHEA and his family — hold them tight in your thoughts and prayers — we all have Lost a Gem …”

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Music Music Features

The Return of Harlan T. Bobo

Let no one accuse Karen Carrier of thinking small. When she opened The Beauty Shop Restaurant in 2002, she brought the legendary Wild Magnolias from New Orleans to celebrate. Five years ago, they were back for the 15th anniversary. For her brainchild’s 20th anniversary on Saturday, August 6th, she’s still thinking big and keeping that NOLA flavor with a second line and the Lucky 7 Brass Band, followed by Jack Oblivian. But Carrier really moved heaven and earth to get the night’s closing act, Harlan T. Bobo.

Some of us feared we’d never see the ragged-but-right troubadour play again. “When that last record came out [2018’s A History of Violence], we did a little tour, and that’s when I got sick,” Bobo recalls. Indeed, the singer and guitarist found he was losing the use of his left hand. Since then, he’s been riding it out in his adopted home of Perpignan, France.

“I had a lot of nerve damage in my hand from lupus,” says Bobo. “I pretty much thought I was done. I can’t do construction anymore, and I just assumed that I was done playing music. Even my physical therapist thought I was done.” And yet, it was through that very practice that Bobo kept the guitar in his life.

“A year ago, I was figuring out how to cut meat, how to use a knife and fork,” he recalls. “Then I started playing guitar as physical therapy. Just to see what I could do with my fingers. And it’s still a little weird, but I’ve got two fingers that work. By doing a lot of weird tunings I can get a pretty full sound.”

That in turn led him back to the craft of songwriting. “And through that two-fingered approach, I wrote new songs, with which I just finished a bunch of demos, and I’ll probably come back in the spring to record,” he says, sounding amazed that he can play again at all. “And then when Karen offered me that show, I said okay. But when I sat down to play the old songs, I realized, ‘Fuck, I’m only using two fingers!,’ so I had to completely change things and [learn] how to manage those songs.”

Reinventing his approach to his own music, Bobo did a trial run in France. “I just did a show in Perpignan as preparation for The Beauty Shop’s anniversary. God, it felt good to do that! I hadn’t done it in so long, but surprisingly enough, it worked. I think I played a kooky Halloween show three years ago, and I almost died doing that.”

He emphasizes that he’ll be playing his older material at Bar DKDC, complete with some familiar faces in his band. “I’ve got Bunny on guitar, Tim Prudhomme on drums, and possibly Jonathan Kirkscey on cello. I can’t resist getting together with all of my buddies. I’m just trying to do songs people will know. The new stuff is weirdly moody and super quiet and acoustic, and I don’t think it’ll be good for that night. It’s gonna be a party there. And we’ll still be super mellow for a party, but the new stuff would just be painful.”

Yet we can still hear his weirdly moody, super quiet side, thanks to a new album, Porch Songs, arriving on August 5th via Goner Records. Bobo will be celebrating that release at an in-store show that evening at 6 p.m. Though recorded before Bobo’s battle with lupus, the songs offer a stripped-down version of his songcraft. “Around 2016, I went to see this guy in Perpignan who’s got an old 8-track set up,” he says. “It sounds very Sun Studio-y. I just sat down for a day and recorded, like, 20 songs I had around, but never knew what to do with. I think there’s 13 on the new record. It’s mostly just guitar and voice, and drums on a couple of takes.”

Now, on the verge of a homecoming, Bobo reflects on his recent show in Perpignan. “Before that, I hadn’t played any Harlan music in ages. It just felt good to know that I could stand up and entertain a crowd. It was something I had kind of forgotten. It was like, ‘Oh, I can do that!’ And I can still handle drunks from the stage.”

The Beauty Shop 20th anniversary show featuring the Lucky 7 Brass Band, the Jack Oblivian band, and Harlan T. Bobo will be at Bar DKDC August 6th, beginning at 8 p.m.