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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Foodies’ Favorites

“My Favorite Things,” which has become a holiday classic song over the years, triggered the idea to ask Memphis chefs and food aficionados what memory sticks with them as one of the best things they’ve ever eaten anywhere. They might not be able to fit it into a stocking, but it ranks up there with “bright copper kettles and warm woolen mittens.”

Kelly English, chef/owner of Restaurant Iris, The Second Line, Panta, and Fino’s from the Hill: “There is one dish that really made my mind up to jump in and try to be a chef — the gnocchi and gulf crab meat with truffle at the restaurant August in New Orleans. On a flavor and texture level, this was a mind-blowing dish. But it was simple. It’s a bite I will never forget.”

Keun Anderson, head chef at Texas de Brazil: “I love anime and Naruto is one of my favorite animes. So, when it comes to the best food I ever had, I can’t help myself. I love ramen. And Flame Ramen is the best.”

Reuben Skahill, veteran Memphis bartender/server: “I had a bender of goat cheese pasta with blackened chicken from Amerigo [Italian Restaurant] five days a week for three years and was always satisfied … warm pasta that makes its own creamy sauce from the goat cheese and sun-dried tomatoes as you mix all the flavors together.”

Karen Barrett, chef/owner of The Happy Belly Company of Memphis: “One of my favorite food memories is when I was learning to cook with my great-grandmother, and she literally made the best sweet potato pie I’ve ever had in my life. The crust was perfect and her pie filling was so rich and deeply colored you’d almost think it was pumpkin. … I won’t share the secret to her pie, but I will tell you there’s nothing wrong with adding a little bourbon in your recipe. Trust me on this one.”

Josh Steiner, MealMD executive chef: “My grandma Jacqueline’s lasagna. It has all kinds of cheeses like whipped ricotta mixed with fresh herbs. It also has a lot of fresh marinara. And I like to add lots of black pepper to it.”

Jimmy “Sushi Jimmi” Sinh, chef/owner of Poke Paradise food truck: “The tomahawk [steak] from Folk’s Folly. It’s a lot better ’cause the bone adds more flavor to the meat. And they just make it the way I like it.”

Justin Hughes, assistant pastry chef at The Peabody: “One of the best things I’ve had was from The Crazy Noodle. It was the cucumber salad and spicy Korean ramen they serve. The ramen is well-balanced with flavor.”

Nick Scott, chef/owner of Salt|Soy: “My friend Mitsu Isoda ran Jewel Bako in New York. He did a dry-aged bluefin tuna nigiri. It was the absolute best piece of fish that I’ve ever tasted. He now runs Omakase Room by Mitsu in New York. He dry-aged it for around 25 days in a very cold temperature. It compounded the flavor and tenderized the meat. It melted as you ate it. He brushed soy on it and put a small amount of wasabi underneath the fish. It didn’t need anything. It was easily the best thing I’ve eaten.”

Miles Tamboli, chef/owner of Tamboli’s Pasta & Pizza: “Artesano pizza bar, town of Lagoa da Conceicao on the island of Santa Catarina in the city of Florianopolis, Brazil. This place used to be way less fancy. When I went there around 2005 they had this burger they called the X Burger that had everything you can imagine on it. Two patties, peas, corn, a hot dog, special sauce, a slab of ham, all kinds of shit. It was incredible.”

Schuyler O’Brien, founder/creator of Over Yonder ice cream: “The best meal I ever had was a 13-course tasting menu at The Barn at Blackberry Farm. The most memorable thing I’ve ever eaten were the Pig Face Parker House rolls from Odd Duck in Austin — classic yeast rolls stuffed with braised pig face on house Dijon mustard.”

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

It’s Time to Get Excited for Pantà, Opening Saturday

It’s fair to say that excitement for Pantà has been buzzing in Memphis for a while now. Chef Kelly English announced earlier this year that he’d be flipping Overton Square’s longstanding Restaurant Iris space into a new Catalonian concept, something he’s dreamed of for decades since a six-month trip to Barcelona in his early twenties.

Pantà finally opens to the public tomorrow at 2146 Monroe, and the building’s complete decorative and culinary transformation is sure to make a splash with hungry Memphians. Despite a hectic week getting ready for opening night, several key members of the Pantà team – English, manager and bartender Aaron Ivory, and designer David Quarles IV – made time to speak to the Memphis Flyer about their excitement for the restaurant.

Flyer: Pantà is a departure from your other restaurants. How did you come to settle on this style of cuisine?

Kelly English: When I lived in Barcelona, that was really when I fell in love with both food and wine, so this is something I’ve had in my head for a while. And during the pandemic, one of our pivots was a three-month pop up of Catalan food that we did here at Iris, and it really helped put food on the table for our staff. And we realized that operating a 12-table fine dining restaurant that needed valet parking wasn’t going to be sustainable.

So we made the deal to move Iris to the former Grove Grill space at Laurelwood, and it then just seemed so natural to turn this into Pantà. We’d seen the concept work and how much fun it was for us, and how much joy it brought to others. I really do live this type of food and the way they live. And what we want is to be known as a later night establishment. We’ll be open Thursday to Saturday from six to midnight, and then on Sundays, we’ll do a siesta service from two to six, for people who might not be up in time for brunch, or for those who work brunch and might want to do something when they get off.

What are some of the specialty dishes that diners can look forward to when they come to Pantà?

English: We’re not going to do anything that isn’t super specifically Catalan, with the caveat that we reserve the right to ‘Memphis’ anything that we need. A great example is patatas bravas. It’s a very traditional dish. They’re fried potatoes with a couple of different aiolis on it. Then there’s also a different version of that called a Bomba Barceloneta, which is the same idea, except they stuff braised meat in the mashed potatoes and they fry it. What we’re going to do is put Payne’s barbecue inside of these mashed potatoes.

So we’re really looking to put a lot of Memphis’ fingerprints on it. But our menu will be fresh, it will be vibrant; we’re going to have a lot of seafood, there will be a lot of vegetable-driven plates. We’ve only got a couple dishes on the menu that use red meat. And all our dishes are going to be small, and are meant to be shared among people while you order multiple things.

Peix Crua: fish, citrus, burnt butter, tarragon, jalapeños, and hazelnuts. (Credit: Pantà)

What was your approach when you started thinking about changing the interior?

English: Well, we wanted a space that simply didn’t exist yet. And that’s where David Quarles comes in. When we first met with him, we talked about what I thought about Barcelona, and we looked at Parc Güell, which is a big inspiration for how the space came together. When I look around now, we’ve got a really unique space here.

David Quarles IV: Kelly told me that they wanted a place where everyone felt welcome. It needed to be a place that kind of transported you out of Memphis a little bit. So I used the colors of Spain, and Barcelona, a lot to inspire the design. We landed on Antoni Gaudí. So I looked up a lot of his work, and we ended up landing on the Casa Vicens. And so I looked up the color inspiration there, the lines that are in his architecture, just everything, and used that as the base. That was one of his first projects, and since this is one of our first large-scale restaurant projects, it felt like it was lining up as it should.

The first design we came up with was the dining room. The colors in the wallpaper there are echoed in every single element outside of that space. I just wanted to really provide a visual experience for anyone who came in. The whole design style is based off a colorful memphis interpretation of art nouveau. You’re not overwhelmed, but you now have a problem choosing where you want to sit first.

Whenever I do spaces, I want the rooms to immerse with each other rather than yell at each other. I feel that now a lot of the spaces are speaking together, and having a good colorful conversation.

Aaron Ivory: It’s one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen. It’s vibrant, but still has a good nightlife vibe to it, where we can control the lights and change the mood. I cannot wait for people to walk in and see what David has done.

Pantà will have an extensive beverage list, featuring signature cocktails, Spanish wine, and gin & tonics. (Credit: Pantà)

In terms of drinks and cocktails, what can diners expect from Pantà?

Ivory: Me, my bartending partner Morgan McKinney [owner of Best Shot Co.], and our beverage director Laurin Culp have been working a lot on coming up with a great bar program. Morgan has come up with some really great cocktail ideas, and one of my favorites is the Naked Dragon, which mixes reposado tequila, some aperol, chili-infused yellow chartreuse, and lime juice. The dragon is kind of our mascot here.

Quarles: We came up with the idea of having our private dining are be the Dragon Room, since that’s the logo. It has a dragon mural painted by Frances [Berry] on the ceiling.

English: Laurin has put together a great list of curated Spanish wines, and we’ll have a whole section of the menu for gin & tonics.

Ivory: And I think the vibe we’ll have is something that will really complement Memphis. It’s a place that will be both low-key, yet high energy. You can come in, split a few tapas with your girlfriend or boyfriend or whomever, and drink some nice wine and just take it easy. You know, take the whole load off your shoulders here.

And it really lends itself to being a place you can go at any part of your night: pop in for a drink before or after dinner, or even stop by or a couple of cocktail before or after, say, going to the theater. We really want it to be an inclusive space for all of Memphis. And there’s been so much love and so much support going into this restaurant, so I can’t help but to be happy and ready and interested to see what types of people we bring in.

Pantà opens to the public tomorrow, October 30th. The restaurant is open from 6 p.m. to midnight Thursday-Saturday, and open from 2-6 p.m. for Sunday siesta service.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink Food Reviews Hungry Memphis

Memphis Chefs Talk Mashed Potatoes

After hearing about Memphis being recognized as the mashed potato capital of America by Idahoan Foods, I wondered how Memphis chefs used mashed potatoes at their restaurants. So, I asked around.

Kelly English, owner of Iris, The Second Line, and Fino’s from the Hill, says, “I love crawfish boil mashed potatoes — with everything you would get in a crawfish boil. Just fold some crawfish tails, crispy sautéed andouille, corn kernels, and roasted garlic into your potatoes and season with your favorite Creole seasoning. Saute a piece of fish from the Gulf and pour brown butter and lemon juice over the whole dish.”

Derk Meitzler, chef/owner of The Vault, Paramount, Backlot Sandwich Shop, and Earnestine & Hazel’s, says, “I’ve used leftover mashed potatoes to make loaded tater tots. Put the potatoes, egg, flour, shredded cheddar cheese, bacon, and chives into a bowl and mix together. Form into the shape of a tater tot and roll in panko bread crumbs. Then fry them golden brown.”

Acre Restaurant executive chef
Andrew Adams
(Photo: Michael Donahue)

Elwood’s Shack owner Tim Bednarski shared his warm German potato salad recipe. Boil two pounds of new potatoes cut into fourths in salted water until tender. Render four pieces of bacon. Drain the potatoes while warm. Combine one cup sliced green onions, one-half cup diced celery, one-half cup mayonnaise, one-half cup sour cream, two tablespoons Dijon mustard, one-fourth cup apple cider vinegar, one-half cup chopped parsley, one-fourth cup pimentos, salt and pepper to taste, and “hot sauce for a kick.” Give it “a light mash.”

Veteran Memphis chef Mac Edwards, hospitality director for The Paramount, makes Very Anglo Latkes: “To leftover mashed potatoes, add grated onion, eggs, a little flour, and baking soda. Press into a patty, pan fry in one-fourth inch of oil until crispy and brown. Drain on a paper towel and sprinkle with salt while hot. I make a horseradish applesauce to go with it.”

Karen Carrier, owner of The Beauty Shop Restaurant, Mollie Fontaine Lounge, and Another Roadside Attraction, prepares Green Herb Roasted Garlic Creamed Potatoes, made with Yukon golds and a parsley, mint, and tarragon puree, unsalted butter, roasted garlic, creme fraiche, and grana padano, with salt and pepper to taste.

Saito 2 chef Jimmy “Sushi Jimi” Sinh makes a sushi roll with mashed potatoes. “Inside would be a deep-fried panko chicken,” he says. The roll is “topped with mashed potatoes and thinly sliced avocado.”

Ben Smith, chef/owner of Tsunami, says, “Mashed potatoes don’t play a major role in my restaurant, even though it’s one of the most requested side items. They normally only accompany our grilled filet of beef, but some customers get creative. We frequently have people order our pork and lemongrass meatballs on top of mashed potatoes.

“I’ve also known people to order mashed potatoes with a side of soy beurre blanc, which is kind of overkill because our mashed potatoes are already loaded with butter and cream.”

Acre Restaurant executive chef Andrew Adams says, “When I worked in a restaurant in New Jersey, I would make mashed potato sandwiches at the end of the night when leftovers were mashed potatoes and sourdough bread. I’ve been told that I break some sort of healthy eating rule by eating carbs on carbs. Lately, I’ve been doing the same with leftover cornbread.”

Peggy Brown, chef/owner of Peggy’s Healthy Home Cooking, cooks homestyle mashed potatoes: “We use Irish potatoes. Peel, wash, slice them up, put them in a pot with chicken broth, and boil until they get completely done. I also put salt in my pot while they’re cooking. Mash them with a potato masher and put in real butter and black pepper. Sometimes we put a little cream in them.”

If you still don’t have enough mashed potatoes in your life, try making some of these dishes.

Former Memphis chef Spencer McMillin, “traveling chef” and author of The Caritas Cookbook:  A Year in the Life with Recipes, knows his mashed potatoes. “I’ve been making smoked mashed potatoes since 1995,” says McMillin, now executive chef at Ciao Trattoria and Wine Bar in Durham, New Hampshire. “Wash Idaho russets, peel them, simmer — always starting in cold water — drain, smoke with any wood but mesquite, fortify with unholy amounts of hot cream and cold butter, season — kosher salt only, pepper and garlic fight with the smoke — and serve them napalm hot. If the roof of your mouth wasn’t singed with the first bite,  they’re too cold. Smoked mash is the one side dish of mine that has been remembered, sought after, stolen, and stood the test of time.

“In the restaurants, I always make way too much and find myself trying to merchandise them in other dishes or turning them into new ‘brilliant’ preparations. A kicky shepherd’s pie, creative duchess croquette, savory pancake — so good with braised pork shoulder — or cheddar-laced fritters.”

But, he says, “None of those dishes were as tasty and as simple to whip together during a mad rush as smoked potato bisque. Sweat out some leek and onion in butter, add chicken stock — not that crap in the aseptic box at the grocery store, make fresh — maybe add a bay leaf or two, bring to a simmer, whisk in an appropriate amount of day-old smoked mash — they’re better in this soup — a touch of cream and bam!”

In addition to his sandwiches, Acre Restaurant executive chef Andrew Adams uses mashed potatoes in dishes served at the restaurant.

“I like to make the super smooth extremely rich Robuchon style mashed potatoes or potato puree,” Adams says. “Five large russet potatoes, one pound butter, salt, and a small amount of hot milk. I treat the process like any emulsion, similar to a béarnaise, by slowly adding the butter and then refinishing with milk.”

Mashed potato concoctions don’t need fancy equipment, Adams says. “Years ago, I was eating at a Michelin three-star restaurant in New York City. After dinner, I was having a drink with the chefs who worked there. I was complimenting their truffle potato foam — when that was still popular — on a seafood dish. The sous chef said he spent weeks with aerators, stabilizers, and other high-tech equipment only for the chef to walk by one day and simply toss a spoonful of mashed potatoes into a white wine sauce and blend. The texture ended up so airy and balanced. Fifteen years later, I tried that. I made a simple sauce with white wine, shallots, milk. Then I added saved mashed potatoes slowly until thickened. To this, I added a little brown butter. And that was it. Last year, this made it to our menu. Now I smoke the potatoes. The final smoked potato sauce goes with our potato gnocchi and short rib dish. The gnocchi with ‘smoked mashed potato’ sauce has been a hit. It’s not listed on the menu that way.”

And, Adams says, “If I have leftover chunky mashed potatoes or some with less butter and other liquids, I will use those sometimes to mix with duck confit or duck breast ‘pastrami’ to make potato-duck croquettes. I just mix duck, mashed potatoes, and egg. That gets molded and breaded, fried.

“On days when we make potato rosemary bread, I’ll ask the crew to save the potatoes for the next day. The potatoes get mixed into the dough. The bread is usually used as the base of our country pork pate.”

Justin Fox Burks and his wife, Amy Lawrence of The Chubby Vegetarian blog and cookbooks, shared their Mashed Potato Dumplings recipe: 

2 cups peeled, cubed potatoes

1 tablespoon water

2 medium eggs (beaten)

1 cup semolina flour

one half teaspoon kosher salt

“Place potatoes and water in a microwave-safe bowl with a lid or a plate to cover. Microwave on high for eight minutes and then allow potatoes to rest, covered, for another eight minutes in the microwave. Mash potatoes with a potato masher and add the eggs, four, and salt. Mix with your hands until just mixed. Pat dough out to about one half inch thickness on a floured surface. Using a pastry cutter or knife, cut dough into roughly one half inch rectangles. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook gnocchi for two to three minutes. When they are ready, they will float. Use a strainer to remove them from the water.

For extra credit, extra flavor, and extra texture, sear the drained gnocchi in olive oil in a skillet on high heat before tossing them with your choice of sauce.”

Burks and Lawrence serve their gnocchi with “a garlicky parsley and walnut pesto or paired with a regular jar of tomato sauce and heaps of grated Romano cheese.”

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Restaurants Shift to Delivery, Curbside Pickup in Coronavirus Wake

Railgarten/Facebook

Remember the good, old days of social closeness-ning?

Coronavirus (and the social distancing that has come with it) has put huge strains on local restaurants but many in Memphis are fighting back with curbside service, food delivery, and some help from the city.

Memphis Mayor Jim Strickland said Monday “we strongly encourage you to continue to-go orders and support our local restaurants and their staffs.”

“To help with this, we have decided to provide on-street parking relief exclusively for food delivery vehicles at various restaurant locations Downtown and Midtown where parking meters are installed,” Strickland said in a coronavirus update Monday. “Until further notice, we are relaxing enforcement at metered parking spaces, allowing on-street parking at no charge in front of restaurants. Please note that all restricted parking areas will remain in effect during this time to ensure public safety.”

Chef Kelly English said on Instagram post Monday he’d close the dining rooms of Restaurant Iris, Second Line, and Fino’s from the Hill.

Restaurants Shift to Delivery, Curbside Pickup in Coronavirus Wake

“We have made the decision to shut our dining rooms down,” he said. “We can’t wait to get them back open. We are available for delivery and take out. @finosmemphis will be at the very least available for lunch take out and @secondlinememphis will be available for dinner take out starting tomorrow.

”We are taking tonight to regroup and get a plan. To all of our team: I love you so much, and we will figure this out.”

Napa Cafe announced Monday it would offer family dinner meals for pickup including the choice of soup or salad, an entrée, and choice of one family-style side item and fresh vegetable for $40 per person.

“We are grateful for the opportunity to provide our guests a sense of ease by providing family dinner meals to-go including salads, soups, entrees, family-style sides, and vegetables so that they can enjoy a Napa Café meal in the comfort of their home,” said Glenda Hastings, owner Napa Café.

Railgarten said it will offer food delivery and discounted gift cards because “we want you to have everything you need before you hunker down.”

“Amid the COVID-19 pandemic, hospitality businesses are being hit hard. We know that as our customers start practicing social distancing, our businesses will suffer. We know the main way consumers can continue to support us is through food delivery and buying gift cards.

“We also know that in this time of economic uncertainty, not everyone wants to purchase gift cards. That is why the Party Memphis group, including Railgarten, wants to make it an easy decision to support our team.

“On Tuesday, March 17th, which is also St. Patrick’s Day, our venues will open at 2 p.m. for those who want to grab a family meal and gift card before you settle in at home. At that time, we will begin our gift card sale.”

The sale will begin at 2 p.m. with $200 cards offered at $100. Cards increase in price every hour. Gift cards can be purchased online. Each purchase made in person, though, comes with a free roll of toilet paper.

“This is our way of thanking you for your support and to remind you that even though things can look bleak, we are going to make it through this thing together,” Railgarten said.

Let It Fly said Monday it will offer family meals (that can feed four to five people) for pickup for $39.99. Each meal comes with a gallon of tea or lemonade. Individual adult meals come with a free kid’s meal.

The Majestic Grill said Monday it will offer curbside pickup starting on Wednesday.

Restaurants Shift to Delivery, Curbside Pickup in Coronavirus Wake (2)

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We Recommend We Saw You

Morgan Freeman, Blue Angel, Heart Full of Soul, and Jarty Party

Trevor Benitone

A non-Academy Award winner wearing glasses with an Academy Award winner at the Moonshine Ball. Morgan Freeman was a guest at the event, held November 22nd.


It’s always great to see Morgan Freeman at an event. The Academy Award winning actor, who’s been in so many movies, adds more than a touch of class when he attends a party. Freeman, who attended with Dr. Linda Keena, was at Pat Kerr Tigrett’s Moonshine Ball, which was held November 22nd at Graceland Exhibition Center.

I first took Freeman’s name at an event for a newspaper story when former president of South Africa Nelson Mandela was in Memphis to receive the National Civil Rights Museum’s International Freedom Award in November, 2000 at The Peabody.

I’ve run into him at restaurants, including the old Madidi, which he owned in Clarksdale, and Chez Philippe. I was at his Clarksdale club, Ground Zero, which he owns with Bill Luckett, when it opened in 2000.

Tigrett says she’s known Freeman for 10 years. “I’ve known him for quite a while,” she says. “Many years he’s been at our Blues Ball, primarily over at Gibson’s.”

She has “an adorable” photo of Freeman playing the drums at his short-lived second location of Ground Zero, which was across the street from Gibson Guitar Factory.

“He’s been (to the Blues Ball) several times and he’s been up here (Tigrett’s downtown penthouse) for cocktails with friends.”

And, Tigrett says, “We were both on a documentary being done on the Mississippi River.”

Asked how she’d describe him, Tigrett says, “A fun, smart gentleman.”

Moonshine Ball guests would agree. Freeman graciously posed for photographs with fans. He also was served chicken and dressing from The Cupboard at the Moonshine Ball buffet, which featured area restaurants.

And Freeman asked me at one point to give him my hair.

Michael Donahue

Attending the Moonshine Ball: Francine Luckett, Alston Meeks, Dr. Derek Miles, Morgan Freeman, Dr. Linda Keena, and Bill Luckett.

MIchael Donahue

If Blue Angel and I really had just wrestled at the recent La Luche Libra event, they’d still be untangling me from the ring’s ropes.

It was cool getting to interview Blue Angel at the Memphis La Lucha Libre Wrestling event, which was held November 10th at 3766 Ridgeway Road.

And Blue Angel, a Mexican wrestler or luchadore, is cool. And he kept his cool while we talked. This was after he was in two back-to-back matches, where he did backflips, front flips, tossed his opponent, Hijo de Fishman, and was thrown around.

He was fun to watch. And the crowd loved him. “I’m fortunate enough to go over with the crowds,” says Blue Angel as we talked after his second match. “I’ve been told multiple times I have an angel on my side. So, I always come out the fan favorite. And that’s a big boost for me to just come out here and put on a great show.”

La Lucha Libre is fun to watch. (See my cover story in this week’s Memphis Flyer  And there’s a video.)

Mexican wrestlers wear masks. The one Blue Angel wore had a winged design, which was made by Memphis’s own Enrique Reyes.

Reyes, who puts on the Memphis La Lucha Libre Wrestling events in Memphis, made three masks for Blue Angel. “I cherish every one of them,” Blue Angel says. “It’s hard to let go when people want to buy them. But I still have all three.”

Michael Donahue

Heart Full of Soul

Napa Cafe and Stax Music Academy teamed up for another “Heart Full of Soul,” which was held November 11th at the East Memphis restaurant.

Stax students performed during the multi-course wine dinner. So, guests were treated to some Wilson Pickett, Isaac Hayes, David Porter, and Otis Redding with their grilled swordfish and Dusty Springfield, Candi Stratton, and Elvis Presley with their pepper-crusted pork tenderloin.

Owner Glenda Hastings opened Napa Cafe for the eighth-annual Stax Music Academy fundraiser presented by Radians Inc. Bergevin Lane Winery provided the wines.

This year’s Heart Full of Soul was a tribute to the Memphis Horns.


MIchael Donahue

Heart Full of Soul

Michael Donahue

Miles Tamboli at the soft opening of his restaurant, Tamboli’s Pasta & Pizzza.

Those lucky enough to attend the October 30th soft opening of Miles Tamboli’s restaurant, Tamboli’s Pasta & Pizza at 1761 Madison, got to order from the full menu – gratis. And, as his invitation read, “All dishes will be served at full portion size, so come hungry!”

So, guests could order everything from “creamy bucatini with pecorino cheese” to “Tamboli’s famous meat lasagna” to “panna cotta with salted caramel and pistachio brittle crumb.”

Tamboli’s restaurant now is open to the public.

Michael Donahue

Markie Maloof Scott and Dave Scott at Tamboli’s Pasta & Pizza soft opening.

MIchael Donahue

Tamboli’s Pasta & Pizza soft opening.


Michael Donahue

Lindsey Burgess at Jarty Party.

Eric Bourgeois hosted “Jarty Party,” which was held behind his apartment on South Main.

Jarty Party?

They called it a “Jarty Party” because it was “jean/denim themed,” Bourgeois says Everybody was supposed to wear denim.

“We decided on a Jarty Party theme because it would be a fun departure from the normal themes – ‘80s, neon, jersey, etc. – while allowing people to be creative and have fun at the same time with something they likely already had in their wardrobe.”

They usually throw some type of big function at their place, but, Bourgeois says, “This was the first time doing a daytime party outside. My landlord recently redid the back lot behind our building, and this gave us the opportunity to bring in some talented friends for food – Glaze Hardage with the paella – and music – Ryan Haskett as the DJ.”

Hardage’s paella was delicious! And it served as a birthday cake of sorts for Bourgeois, who says the event also served as a party to celebrate his 26th birthday.

MIchael Donahue

Jon Bringle and Eric Bourgeois at Jarty Party.

Michael Donahue

Glaze Hardage at Jarty Party.

Michael Donahue

Logan Landry and Sampson at Jarty Party.

Michael Donahue

Tyler Beard and Shelby Garrison at Jarty Party.

Michael Donahue

Alice Higdon is retiring her red boa – as far as being Red Boa chair – at of this year’s event, which was held Nov. 15th at Memphis Botanic Garden. She is with Daniel Reid at the10th annual Red Boa Ball fundraiser for the American Red Cross of the Mid-South.

Michael Donahue

Red Boa Ball

Michael Donahue

Red Boa Ball

About 320 people attended the Signature Chefs Gala, which was held novz 14…..at the Guest House at Graceland. More than $100,000 was raised at the event, a fundraiser for the March of Dimes.

Lisa Ansley and Holly Mount chaired the event.

Michael Donahue

Lisa Ansley and Holly Mount at Signature Chefs Gala.

Michael Donahue

Sweet Magnolia Ice Cream owner Hugh Balthrop celebrated his birthday at the Signature Chefs Gala.

Michael Donahue

Nick Chamoun at Signature Chefs Gala.

Michael Donahue

Chef Edouardo Jordan of Seattle was guest chef in the Enjoy Aim Guest Chef Series, which was held November 17th at The Gray Canary. With him are restaurant owners Michael Hudman and Andy Ticer.

MIchael Donahue

Spencer McMillin and Kelley English from Restaurant Iris and The Second Line teamed up for the Caritas Community Center & Cafe Chef Partnership Dinner, which was held November 14th.

Michael Donahue

Chef Partnership Dinner at Caritas Community Center & Cafe.

                                        WE SAW YOU AROUND TOWN

Michael Donahue

Jerry Lawler and TorRaunce Echols at Gibson’s Donuts.

MIchael Donahue

Andrea Norsworthy and Trace Austin at Kroger.

Michael Donahue

Brandon Closson and Brantley Martin at Kroger.

Michael Donahue

Jordan Buchanan with his bread pudding at Ave Maria Home’s Assisted Living Fall Dinner sponsored by US Foods, one of its food vendors.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Fino’s Opening Thursday: A Sneak Peek!

Fino’s will open its doors tomorrow, Thursday, June 6th, at 11 a.m.

“It’s the same,” says chef Kelly English, who took over the venture from Jerry Wilson. “I didn’t change a damn thing.”

But, it’s not exactly the same. The place looks brighter and cleaner and seems more spacious. There’s new paint and nice white tiles on the inner columns.

A nook in the back will eventually be curtained off for cannoli- and pizza-making parties for the kids.

But you can expect crowd favorites such as the Acquisto (English’s pick), the New York Club, and the Penn Station.

Acquisto

Penn Station

Italian Roast Beef

New York Club

In addition, expect local treats from purveyors such as the Macaronagerie. They are also selling T-shirts designed to mimic classic album covers (Wilson was known for his rock T-shirts, btw.), and will eventually offer take-home items such as lasagne.

English vows to use the same suppliers; he’s hired most of the staff back. He’s veering a bit from the model to use fresh dough for the pizzas and Fino’s will offer house-made mozzarella, burrata, and ricotta cheeses.

“The sandwiches don’t change,” he says. “I’m excited about the fresh dough and the future.”

Samantha Davis, Kelly English, Todd English

Fino’s will be open 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Friday and Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Breakfast service will begin on Monday. 

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Kelly English to Take Over Midtown Fino’s

tripadvisor.com

Exciting news, Kelly English is taking over the Midtown Fino’s.

His goal, he says, is to preserve something that is so authentically Midtown.

He plans to serve breakfast, with an emphasis on breakfast sandwiches, including pork rolls. But, otherwise, the menu will be much the same.

He hopes to have it open by early April.

When asked if this was out of his comfort zone, English replies, “Everything I do is outside of my comfort zone.” He says that’s what keeps him striving.

He says he is not taking over the East Memphis location.

We’ll keep you posted on this story. 

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

5 Memphis Food Scandals!

Y’all sure do like a good scandal — with its accompanying sputtering WTFing.

So, today, friends, we look back at 5 Memphis food scandals.

1. Gibson’s Donuts and Marsha Blackburn

5 Memphis Food Scandals!

Who doesn’t like a good donut? Apparently, hate merchant, newly minted senator Marsha Blackburn loves them. So much so that she made a stop Tuesday morning at the beloved Memphis fixture Gibson’s Donuts. Welp, folks let owner Don DeWeese know they did not appreciate it, and DeWeese responded that he did not invite her and everybody deserves a donut.

So did the donut clinch Blackburn’s win? Only the devil knows for sure.

2. Taylor Berger vs. Midtown Nursery

Taylor Berger’s plans for his Truck Stop at the corner of Central and McLean were doomed from the start. First, to some controversy, the plan ousted Midtown Nursery, then the plans met with resistance from the neighborhood and Code Enforcement.

Ultimately, Berger and his partner ditched the plan after working on it for two years. As for Midtown Nursery, it got booted from its next location due to plans for apartments.

3. Kelly English denies Tony Parker service

Restaurant Iris owner Kelly English raised a ruckus (and affection from Grizzlies fans) when he suggested he denied NBA player Tony Parker a seat at his restaurant.

Ultimately, this scandal fizzled out when it was reported that the restaurant was booked up anyway and couldn’t accommodate the request.

4. Imagine Vegan Cafe’s Butthole problem

Ah, Butthole Gate. Such fond, fond memories. Imagine Vegan Cafe’s owner Kristy Jeffrey reacted badly to a reviewer who noted that a child’s dirty feet and bare bottom were not appetizing. Also, yodeling was involved.

The furor raged on for days and made national news. Jeffrey tried to capitalize on the situation, but the situation ended like many on social media, it faded away.

5. That Creep Jason Doty

Local baker/foodtruck owner Jason Doty was always present on the food scene and he was a known abuser. With every new project he undertook, critics took to social media to decry his continued opportunities. A project with Cash Saver was cancelled after such an effort.

He was sentenced to 25 years in prison early this year after an incident that harmed his infant child. 

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Welcome back, Restaurant Iris!

Michael Donahue

Guests got a look at the ‘new’ Restaurant Iris at a soft opening Aug. 17.

Restaurant Iris opened its door to invited guests for a soft opening, Friday, August 17th. They got the first look at the re-imagined Midtown restaurant, which has a new look and a new menu.

Guests encounter a new bar area as they enter the restaurant, which has a sleek, elegant feel. Art depicting chefs at work adorn the walls. A large portrait of chef/owner Kelly English hangs on one wall in the front dining room.

As English said earlier, the restaurant is “

going to feel a little different. A little more modern than you remember it. Less walls in the space. I feel like we’re staying exactly true to ourselves by changing. It’s going to be the same focus of what we’ve always done: to tell the story of who we are. Just a little more modern approach to it.”

Welcome back, Restaurant Iris!

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Categories
We Recommend We Saw You

Cuisine, wine, retiring pianist, reborn building, Mr. Lenti turns 100, CBHS is cookin’!

Jon W. Sparks

My dream of working in a kitchen with a great chef like Kelly English might turn into a nightmare. For the great chef. This is what my dream might look like.

I have a dream of working in a kitchen under the guidance of a great chef like Kelly English, owner of Restaurant Iris and Second Line. It would be great to really learn how to cook. It might not be so much fun for the chef, though. People usually have to tell me how to do things many times before I finally get it. I like to call it “reiteration.”

Stephanie Ferreira had a dream that had to do with fine dining and wine. Her wish came true. Ferreira, Belinda Anderson, Deirdre Malone and Bonnie Pinkston hosted their second Vintage901 – three days of “wine, food and community” to benefit the Women’s Foundation, Anderson said.

“She and her husband (the late Chuck Ferreira) spent a lot of time touring, just going to wine festivals all over the country,” Anderson said. “That’s what they loved to do. She and her husband wanted to bring a festival here. Then her husband passed away, unfortunately. She took some time off.”

After some time she contacted Anderson. “She called me and asked me if I thought it was a good idea to have a wine festival that she and her husband wanted to have. Bring a true three-day wine festival here. She asked me if I could find some people to help.”

Anderson and her husband, Calvin, also love to attend wine festivals, so she, Ferreira, Pinkston and Malone and their team got together and made it happen.

“The Wine Coach” Laurie Forster, who has appeared on the Today Show and other programs, attended to speak to the wines for the second year in a row. “She is considered our ‘Grand Sommelier,’” Anderson said.

I attended the March 3 event, which was a dinner at Memphis College of Art. English prepared a four-course dinner with two wine pairings for each course. Food included miso roasted salmon with okonomiyaki and crema and slow roasted duck leg with local pea succotash and tarragon emulsion.

And, I have to say, I’ve never seen the first floor of MCA look so elegant.

Michael Donahiue

Stephani Ferreira, Kelly English and Belinda Anderson at Vintage901 Perfect Pairings Dinner.

………….

Michael Donahue

Brother Joel McGraw and Roman Novarese at A Taste of CBHS.

Speaking of food, I’m always amazed at the fine chefs/restaurateurs who are a product of Christian Brothers High School, my alma mater. Ryan Trimm, owner of Sweet Grass and Next Door, Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman, owners of several restaurants, including Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen, Hog & Hominy, Catherine & Mary’s and the new The Gray Canary, and Mike Garibaldi, owner of Garibaldi’s Pizza, are among the CBHS graduates.

I attended A Taste of CBHS, held March 4 in Hefferman Hall, a building that wasn’t even there when I graduated.

Food stations lined the walls. People packed the place. And you didn’t have to tip.

………….

Michael Donahue

Jimmie Tucker, Margot Payne, June West, Will McGown and Juan Self at Preservation Posse After Hours at Universal Life Building.

I passed by the Universal Life Insurance Building hundreds of times in the 40-plus years I’ve worked at newspapers in the Downtown area. I always was impressed with the beautiful Egyptian Revival building and how pristine the shrubs and grass were kept. But I never went inside.

I finally got my wish March 1. I attended the first Preservation Posse After Hours event, which was held at the renovated building.

“The renovators’ happy hour series is an informal and fun way to learn about adaptive re-use and restorations projects happening all over our city,” said W. Preston Battle, who emceed the event.

According to Preservation Posse’s web site, the building, which was vacant since 2001, will re-open to commemorate Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. commemorative events in April.

The building, constructed in the 1940s, was headquarters for Universal Life, which was the fourth-largest African-American-owned life insurance company in the country.

McKissack & McKissack, an African-American-owned firm in Nashville, designed the building.

Self & Tucker Properties, which purchased the building in 2006, is the developer and designer of the renovation project.

Plans are for the building to be a hub for entrepreneurship and community revitalization for organizations committed to creating a better Memphis.

……….

Michael Donahue

Dougan Grimes sings and plays guitar at Avon Acres.

I remember Roger Sapp and Craig Blondis telling me about a venue they were going to open behind their Central Barbecue location on Summer. I sort of forgot about it until I got an invitation to a friends and family night event for Avon Acres, which was held Feb. 27.

On the night of the event, I walked behind the restaurant expecting to see a nice-sized building that could be rented for events. I even thought maybe it was attached to the restaurant. Then I was told to look South. I walked through the wall and saw the building. It looked enormous. That was Avon Acres.

The 5,800 square-foot venue can accommodate 300 (seated) and 375 (standing) guests.

I was impressed with Dougan Grimes, who is a bartender at Sweet Grass/Next Door. He sang and played guitar at the event.

Grimes, 33, who writes originals, played covers on his Martin acoustic/electric guitar for two or three hours with just a short break. “Different stuff like Allman Brothers and Clapton, The Band, Dylan. Roots music. Grateful Dead.”

He said he plays gigs whenever he can. “I’ll pick up something here and there. Mostly it’s for stuff like that. Little private party gigs. I haven’t played out anywhere in a while. In a bar or anything like that.”

Grimes hasn’t been in a band in Memphis. “I had a little group when I lived in Fayetteville, Ark. I can’t remember what we called ourselves.”

…………..

Michael Donahue

Charlotte Vaughn’s last night as Folk’s Folly pianist after 30 years.

Charlotte Vaughn, on the other hand, played in a bar – for 30 years. She was a pianist for 30 years at Folk’s Folly.

She played her final gig March 1 to a packed house, full of friends and well-wishers.

Vaughn moved to Dallas, where her children live.

Vaughn plans to play piano in Dallas. “I do plan to still make music somewhere. I just don’t know where right this minute.”

“New York, New York” is the one song she’s probably played the most during her long Folk’s Folly post. “I always enjoyed playing it,” she said.

Her favorite song? Leon Russell’s “A Song For You.” I like the emotion involved in it. I love his interpretation of it. I love what it says. I love what it means. And I love the melody.”

………

Michael Donahue

Louis Lenti at his 100th birthday party at Ave Maria Home.

Louis Lenti celebrated his 100th birthday with a party March 1 at his new home at Ave Maria Home.

Guests included the local Marine Corps League and the Knights of Columbus from The Church of the Nativity, Lenti’s home church.

The Marines in their dress blues presented the colors.

Lenti was a private first class Marine from 1941 to 1945 during World War I. He was a sharpshooter and a key figure in the Battle of Guadalcanal in the Solomon Islands.

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