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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Ghost Gauntlet

I was drinking a brown ale. At least that’s what I think that it was. It was brown and certainly an ale — but there are purists who will argue that this doesn’t qualify it as an official brown ale. With all due respect, it was a brown ale.

This state of confusion was caused by the Flying Saucer’s “Ghost Gauntlet,” which consists of four unnamed local brews, numbered sequentially to keep you in the dark about just what you are drinking. The ABV is listed, but I’m pretty sure that’s just the legal department being a wet sandwich. I ordered number … well, why spoil the surprise? It was brown, an ale, and very good.

The bartender, Brandy (such a fine girl), wouldn’t even tell me what I’d ordered after she’d laid it down. So the only option at that point was to drink up and hope my luck held out. It did. Kirk Caliendo, the Flying Saucer’s friendly GM, assured me that all the Ghost Gauntlet beers have been vetted.

The point, of course, is to drink all four in the gauntlet sometime in the next couple of weeks, then go online and vote for your favorite. Whichever candidate garners the most votes goes into the 75-draft-beer lineup.

The Ghost Gauntlet is good for anyone falling into a “beer rut,” or worse, overwhelmed by the choices out there. For me, whatever the hell I was drinking was a pleasant surprise, one that I’d almost certainly have missed had I relied on my own waning brainpower to order. The purpose, other than having a little fun with beer, says Kirk, is to “judge based on the palate, as opposed to the perceived value of the brand.”

If running the Ghost Gauntlet is a bit much, or you’re one of those control freaks who wants a modicum of control over what you ingest, higher up on the menu is the Transcendent 20: a selection of beers that takes the guesswork out by focusing on the absolute best of the best of a style, as picked by Kirk and “touched by about four or five others,” locally and from the corporate office in Dallas. This includes Brandy (who does her best to understand).

Anyone remotely familiar with the current beer scene will recognize most of the names on this list: Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, Duvel Belgian Blonde, and standbys like Founder’s, Oskar Blues, and Dogfish Head — but even the most pedantic beer snob will admit these are standbys for a reason. The list isn’t definitive and will change from time to time.

Then there are the Exceptionals, the silver medal winners that rotate out a little more often. The bottom line is that one side of the menu style lists beers by region and style, and the other by excessive awesomeness.

All this is part of a remodeling and grand re-opening which closed the Saucer down for six weeks. As Kirk told me about the kitchen (about three times larger), the new food menu, and improvements to the beer garden to enhance the acoustics, all I could think was that the contractors had done a fantastic job, because I still couldn’t see what they’d done.

It is still the Flying Saucer, though, and they still sport 75 beers on tap and about 150 labels in bottles. The remodel has left the famous porcelain saucers festooned on walls and ceiling — a testament to those who have tried 200 different beers. Don’t get too ambitious. The Saucer will only give you credit for three a day, so thanks again, legal.

Of course, it’s for your own good, and no one wants you bathing in the stuff — it’s bad hygenie and bad manners. For the true beer adventurers (in this harbor town), you try four of the Memphis brews on the gauntlet and get another local kid on tap.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

The Pasta Kitchen in Collierville, plus the Agricenter’s Feast on the Farm

Kirk Caliendo comes from a big Italian family based out of New York, and communing over a home-cooked meal using old family recipes is part and parcel to his identity.

For many years he sought to share that experience with his community.

In mid-April that wish came true for Caliendo.

He and his wife Kristen opened The Pasta Kitchen in Collierville.

“Our motto is ‘Our family feeding yours,'” general manager David Nestler says.

Kirk Caliendo, owner of the Pasta Kitchen.

Caliendo and team used the build-your-own-bowl trend as the groundwork of the eatery, with several house-made sauces and different pastas, including at least one daily scratch-made noodle, to choose from, followed with fresh veggies and proteins to toss in the bowl.

“Our sauces and recipes are family recipes dating back generations,” Nestler says.

The build-your-own-bowl option starts at $8.95, which includes the pasta, sauce, and veggies. Each protein added costs $2.

Signature dishes such as homemade lasagna, stuffed shells, and chicken marsala start at $9.95 and top out at about $13.

“We are a scratch kitchen. All of our sauces are made daily from scratch, and our ingredients are as fresh as possible,” Nestler says.

That includes the tiramisu ($6).

They offer several gluten-free options and whole grain and veggie pastas.

In addition to striving to be as New York Italian as possible — “any products that are not made in-house are sourced from a purveyor in New York,” according to Nestler — the Pasta Kitchen strives to maintain “putting out a hot, fresh, quality dish in under 10 minutes.”

It seems to be working for them.

“Collierville has been very receptive and supportive to what we’re doing. Every day is better than the previous,” Nestler says.

Even New York loves it.

“We’ve had New Yorkers come in and say, ‘Wow, that’s really close to back home,'” Nestler says.

The Pasta Kitchen is is open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday. For more information, call 316-5119 or go to thepastakitchen.net.

The Pasta Kitchen, 875 W. Poplar,

Building your own bowl yields tasty results.

The Agricenter International was formed in 1983 with the intention of fostering agricultural research, education, and conservation.

On its 1,000 acres in Shelby Farms Park, it sees 1.3 million visitors a year, including 4,000 students who attend classes on water quality and forestry, shoppers at the longest-running Tennessee farmers market which operates six days a week, and attendees of the numerous expos or arena shows.

The Agricenter is owned by Shelby County and run by the nonprofit Agricenter International, and in its 30-plus years, it has never hosted a fund-raiser.

That is until last year.

More than 350 people hoofed around the dirt floor of the ShowPlace Arena, perusing auction items and taste-testing what some of Memphis’ finest chefs concocted using ingredients grown by the farmers market’s vendors.

“It was so well-attended, we decided to continue it this year,” Christine Donhardt, director of communications for the Agricenter, says.

On Friday, June 17th at 7 p.m. the Agricenter will host its second annual Feast on the Farm, held again in the ShowPlace Arena — boot party, folks — featuring 12 chefs plucked from the bounty of exceptional eateries Memphis has to offer.

“We’ll have Logan of MasterChef Junior, which we’re excited about, and this year a couple of them will be using sorghum grown on our farm at the Agricenter,” Donhardt says.

The silent auction features 90 items, and Terri Walker will lead the live auction, which will include a diamond ring priced at $1,700.

Live entertainment will be provided by Jamie Baker and the VIPs as well as Donna Wolf playing the fiddle.

“We’ll have a lot to keep people busy,” Donhardt says.

“We’re definitely on track for what we did last year. Maybe we’ll expand sometime in the future,” she says.

Tickets are $100 until June 13th when they will increase to $150.