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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Oh, Grate! Takes Great Care of Customers

Oh Grate! is getting greater. Or “grater.”

They still use graters for the cheese on some of their frozen ready-to-heat meals, and sales of their Fiesta Sauce (formerly known as Tropical Dressing) as well as new innovations in their product lineup have been great, says Amy Bingham, co-owner with Courtney Jones of the store at 2028 West Poplar Avenue, Suite 104, in Collierville, Tennessee.

First the Fiesta Sauce: “It’s still going really well,” Bingham says. “We’re shipping it out all over the country.”

The sauce is based on the green dressing, a mustard-vinegar based salad dressing, that was served at the old Pancho’s Mexican Restaurants. “We missed the Pancho’s green sauce that everybody put on tacos and taco salads,” Bingham says.

Jones began making it when Pancho’s still had restaurants in Memphis. “I had made it for years at home,” she says. “Oftentimes it would be hard to find at Kroger. Once Pancho’s was sold, you could not find it any longer.”

It wasn’t difficult to unearth the original Pancho’s recipe. “Everybody likes to throw out the recipes. You can find them online. A copycat Pancho’s dressing.”

She made some changes to the original recipe, which she later had to adapt for shelf life and to make it in bulk while “trying to keep that quality as best as we could, true to the original sauce.”

“Next thing we knew our doors were blown off and everybody was here trying to get the green sauce.”

Sales of their Fiesta Sauce “went viral last year,” Bingham says.

They changed the name from “Tropical Dressing” to “Fiesta Sauce” last year because “people were confused about the flavors,” Bingham says. Was it salsa or tropical? Pancho’s referred to its sauce as “Tropicale Salad Dressing.”

But the “main thing that has really changed” at Oh Grate! is the inclusion of locally-made products in their store. “We kind of tapped into an audience of people who love food from Memphis.”

In addition to honing in on “the nostalgia from Pancho’s,” they wondered what else they could offer so people “could relive some of these Memphis memories.”

Charlie Vergos’ Rendezvous was at the top of their list. “We formed a partnership with Rendezvous, and we sell their products here at our store. We sell ribs, smoked sausage, all their sauces and seasonings. And that has been wildly successful.”

Not everybody can just hop in their car and drive an hour or so from Collierville to the Rendezvous at the last minute. “You’re just craving Rendezvous, but you’re not going to drive Downtown unless it’s a special occasion,” says Bingham.

They also began carrying products, including juices and meals, from RawGirls. “It’s all fresh, all tailored to meet a targeted need. So, the Charcoal Lemonade is for detox; Sinus Shot is best this time of year. Everybody’s got the sniffles. It’s packed with ginger and vitamin C, so that really enhances the effectiveness.”

Arbo’s Cheese Dip is another item. This was founder Andrew Arbogast’s answer to Pancho’s cheese dip after Pancho’s moved out of Memphis.

They sell the chips and white cheese dip from Las Delicias as well as the “top-notch toffee’” from 901 Bakehouse in Germantown.

And they carry the homemade sourdough bread and pizza dough from Southern Flourery No. 6 in Collierville, not to mention short bread cookies and pound cakes from Made From Scratch Cookie Company.

Their counters now include Memphis Grindhouse Coffee, Dancing Peppers salsa, and products from Brim’s Snack Foods, which makes several products in addition to its popular pork rinds.

A line of mustards, including hot and spicy flavors, from Harvest Gourmet in Cookeville, Tennessee, is their newest addition. They discovered it at Harvest Gourmet’s booth at the recent Mid-South Sports & Boat Show at Agricenter International. “We tasted their mustard and just fell in love with their products.”

They “made a pretty large purchase” and put the products in their store, Bingham says. “It happened so quickly and unexpectedly. Less than 24 hours and we had met with them and had their products on our shelves.”

Another new product — Southern Chocolate Chess Pie — originated closer to home. Jones’ daughter Maddox Huey “started making pies at home,” she says. “And, of course, we have the facility here to help her with that. One day she made a chocolate chess pie at home. I tell you, the whole family was blown away.”

More pie flavors are on the way. “She’s about to begin making a key lime pie for us.”

Bingham and Jones enjoy helping people get their businesses off the ground. “It’s hard to know where to start a business,” Bingham says. “We want to help others along. We have this retail space that people have kind of come to know in this small area. But it can give exposure to smaller businesses as well.”

Oh Grate! also has had “great collaborations” with established businesses like the Rendezvous. “We’ve learned from them.”

They’ve been able to “share, grow, and help each other.”

As for the Oh Grate! heat-and-serve meals, all of which are made on-site, Bingham says, “We cover the gamut.”

They make soups, sliders, and ready-to-eat dinners with different entrees, including chicken spaghetti, shrimp Alfredo, meatballs, and marinara. They also carry lunch and party items, including chicken salad and pimento cheese. “We are your one-stop shop for not having to cook.”

Last year, Oh Grate! introduced a new item: Energy Bites, which Jones describes as “little power balls,” including oatmeal, flax seed, peanut butter, honey, and chia seeds. “We’re now making hundreds and hundreds of energy balls.”

Some Oh Grate! products are available locally at High Point Grocery, South Point Grocery, and Cordelia’s Market. “We firmly believe in local,” Bingham says. “Local grocery stores are vital to our success as well.”

They recently began selling their products in North Mississippi stores “all the way down to Batesville,” including Piggly Wiggly.

Much of their success is “due to our amazing team,” Jones says. “We now have 17 people that work with us part-time. Everyone is part-time but me and Amy. None of this would be possible without them.”

What’s next for Oh Grate!? “I would say our most requested item is the Pancho’s hot dip recipe,” Bingham says. “That is what we get asked for quite often. I feel it would do quite nicely in our lineup.”

People just referred to it as “the hot dip,” Jones says.

Will that be on Oh Grate! shelves one day? “It’s something we are looking into,” Bingham says. “It takes a while to launch a product.”

But, Jones adds, “There’ve been some test batches.” 

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

The Scoop on Las Delicias’ Tasty Tortilla Chips

Marco Martinez is in the chips. Literally.

Martinez, 39, owner of Las Delicias, is the guy who came up with the restaurant’s famous tortilla chips, which are now in 60 Mid-South locations.

Las Delicias recently expanded its chips-and-dips footprint at Cordelia’s Market. Beginning this week, they will be cooking in the store’s kitchen and adding items to its grab-and-go cooler.

Las Delicias chips are already in 17 Kroger stores in the Memphis area and three in Mississippi. In 2013, a local Kroger store manager approached Martinez at the Memphis Farmers Market, he says. The manager said, “Hey, you think you have enough to sell to Kroger?” The chips at that first Kroger “did great.”

Martinez was a prep cook at Las Delicias before he came up with the chips in 2009. “We used to buy tortillas from a local place that made tortillas for us. We’d go pick them up hot and ready for us to use at the restaurant. Then one day the guy decided he didn’t want to make the particular size we needed anymore.”

That was 30 minutes before the restaurant opened, so Martinez’s dad had to buy tortillas at the grocery store. Then he said, “You know what? We’re going to make our own tortillas.” Martinez says, “He bought a little machine and we started making our own tortillas.”

They hired a customer who knew how to run a tortilla machine. His dad guaranteed the woman 40 hours’ work, but, Martinez, who learned how to use the machine, says, “She’d sit there for seven hours because we were done in an hour.”

So, they began selling hot tortillas to different restaurants. “I would take back whatever they didn’t sell and give it to the landlord for their horses to eat. We had so much, we were just throwing it away.”

Then Martinez thought, “You know what? I’m going to start cutting them up, frying them, and see how these chips compare to other tortilla chips.

“We started with a small batch and [kept] burning them. We kept on and on until we got them right and started making a few bags here and there. I started taking them to a place where I delivered tortillas.”

They were a hit. “I started having so many customers and so many orders, we had to run the machine all day long.”

Martinez’s focus is now the chips and dips. “Guacamole and pico de gallo dips. We started with those right around the time I started with the chips. I was like, ‘I need something to sell with the chips at the farmers market.’”

Moisture is the main difference between their tortilla chips and other corn chips. “Tortilla chips have a lot of humidity. When you are making the tortillas, you put in a certain amount of water. One part water, one part masa or flour. Other chips taste different from ours. They make them very dry. My tortillas take four minutes to fry. The other ones take 20 to 30 seconds.”

That changes the taste, he says. “When you put the chips in the frying pan, it kind of makes them blister. When they do that, they look very thick.”

As a result, Las Delicias tortilla chips “kind of melt in your mouth like a corn-flake. Another difference is you can actually see the salt grains on our chips as opposed to the competition. We just sprinkle a little salt on top of them.”

The only salt on Las Delicias chips is “whatever sticks to them after they’ve been fried and dried. We try to get as much of our oil off them.”

Other chip makers sometimes “use super finely powdered salt. And they spray it along with oil so it sticks with the chips. So, they are a lot saltier than ours.”

Las Delicias no longer makes hot tortillas for other restaurants. Martinez needed the machines to make the chips. “We sell between 10,000 and 13,000 bags in a month.”

Las Delicias is at 4002 Park Avenue and at 5689 Quince Road. Cordelia’s Market is at 737 Harbor Bend Road in Harbor Town.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Las Delicias Expands Partnership With Cordelia’s Market

Las Delicias will open a third location July 20th.

Actually, it’s a location within a location for the longtime Mexican restaurant.

Las Delicias already has products at Cordelia’s Market, but now their partnership with the store has expanded. “We will be cooking out of their kitchen and (food) will be in open box coolers,” says Marco Martinez of Las Delicias. “And it will be a different menu from the restaurant.”

Selections will include “some items from the restaurant,” Martinez says. “But we’re doing things different because it’s going to be a lot of grab and go.”

New items will include roasted poblano chicken, roasted red peppers spaghetti, and chipotle chicken, Martinez says.

“I am thrilled to have them,” says Cordelia’s Market general manager Erica Humphreys. “We have carried their chips, guacamole, and pico de gallo for as long as I can remember,” she says. “And the chips are our number-one-selling item.”

Las Delicias will add new items to its existing items at Cordelia’s Market (Credit: Michael Donahue)

Down the road, Cordelia’s plans to partner with other vendors, Humphreys says. “It’s a natural first step for us, because we have such a trust in the partnership already. Having someone come in our kitchen and utilize our area is a scary thing for a grocery store. But to have Marco and his family come in is an exciting adventure.”

Also launching on July 20th at Cordelia’s Market is Muddy’s Bake Shop. “They will not be making their product at the store,” Humphreys says, “but we are doing a selection of their frozen desserts like pie crust you can take and bake at home. But then we’ll also be doing an assortment of their popular items. They will be here the 20th [of July] with their food truck handing out samples of items they’ll be selling.”

Las Delicias, which opened its first brick-and-mortar restaurant almost 20 years ago at 3727 Mendenhall Road, is now located at 4002 Park Avenue in Kennedy View Shopping Center and at 5689 Quince Road.

As for what Las Delicias is known for, Martinez says, “Everybody knows us as ‘Las D’s.’ Everybody would say you could eat a full meal for under $10 at Las D’s.” With inflation, he says, “We just raised prices after many, many years. But you can still have a full meal and a drink for under $10. We’re still pretty affordable.”

Cordelia’s Market is at 737 Harbor Bend Road in Harbor Town; (901) 526-4772

Cordelia’s Market (Credit: Michael Donahue)
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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Margarita Time

This week officially marks the beginning of summer, although, truth be told, it feels like we’re already a few months into the sultry weather season. The only upside to the uptick on the thermometer is that I can beat the heat with an ice-cold margarita.

It’s not that I don’t like to dally with daiquiris or that I never perk up with a piña colada, but I’m my father’s daughter, which means that margaritas are my jam. I like to drink them frozen, although my enthusiasm for the drink frequently leads to a massive “ice cream” headache, and I like to drink them on the rocks. I’ll mix them with the mid-priced José Cuervo, and I’ll mix them with Patron when I’m feeling rich, or Sauza when my pockets are bare.

Lately, my kitchen margaritas — best served after a soccer game, yard work, or just a hot day spent outdoors — are whipped up very simply: a jigger of my latest favorite, el Jimador tequila, in a shaker, along with four ounces of Jim O’Brien’s Crazy Rita margarita mix, ice, and a slice of lime. I shake it up, then strain the mix into an ice-filled old fashioned glass rimmed with lime juice and kosher salt. Honestly, I don’t even bother with triple sec, although I have a bottle languishing on my dining room bar cart just a few yards away.

Elena Elisseeva | Dreamstime.com

Double-distilled and made with 100 percent agave, there’s a crispness to el Jimador, which comes from the western Mexican state of Jalisco, that I prefer to other tequilas. And O’Brien’s Crazy Rita — which I first tried during a pop-up liquor store tasting hosted by O’Brien himself — is not too tart, not too sweet. Unlike some margarita mixes, it’s made with cane sugar instead of high-fructose corn syrup. Calorie-wise, it comes in at 80 per cocktail, which is better than most mixers. Plus, O’Brien is a Memphian, a chef who turned lemons into, well, adult beverages by parlaying a burgeoning business selling seasonings and sauces at area farmers markets into a booming business by selling his wares at grocery and liquor stores. And trust me — it feels good to drink local.

Speaking of drinking local — Las Delicias gets my vote for best in town due to the fresh-squeezed lime juice that’s used in the recipe. I also like the frozen margaritas at Las Playita Mexicana out in Bartlett. The seven varieties of margaritas on the menu at Babalu in Overton Square might sound blasphemous to traditionalists, but the quality ingredients make up for the sass. I recommend the Tamarind Margarita, which combines Cazadores tequila, orange juice, the house sour mix (which is fresh-squeezed), and tamarind extract to make a heady, thirst-quenching quaff. The Champarita, a mix of sparkling wine, agave nectar, triple sec, and sour mix, tastes just as it sounds, like a lighter margarita or a margarita-mimosa blend.

Many restaurants go wrong by using cheap tequila, hoping that the sour mix masks the taste. Or they use a sour mix laden with low-quality ingredients — corn syrup, shelf-stable lime juice, preservatives, and artificial additives — hoping that the tequila ratio might help drinkers overlook the wretchedness of the drink. Frozen margarita machines can get gunky and moldy if they’re not cleaned frequently. And, when it comes to a margarita on the rocks, drinks must be shaken, not stirred, to aerate the ingredients properly.