Tag: LBOE

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

My Favorite Burger …

Since it’s Burger Week and many Memphis restaurants are selling great burgers at a great price (see page 17 for details), we decided to ask a few local notables to tell us about their favorite burger. They gave us some very mouthwatering choices. Enjoy.

Fredric Koeppel, Writer

“Our favorite burger in town is the WJ Burger at Acre, a re-enactment of the original burger sold at Wally Joe restaurant that closed in 2007. Acre now offers these on Thursday nights. Beef dry-aged and ground in-house, confit tomato, roasted garlic mayo, truffle cheese, frisée on a house-baked horseradish bun — it’s just the best. Get it medium rare.”

The Office @ Uptown’s black bean burger

Jared “Jay B.” Boyd, Program Manager, WYXR

“My favorite? The black bean burger at The Office @ Uptown. I’m a new vegan, and having veggie options around town is helpful. With more Impossible and Beyond options popping up around town, this particular take on a black bean patty stands out for its taste and texture. Not quite like meat, but still flavorful enough to hold its own.”

LBOE garlic burger

Pat Mitchell-Worley, Executive Director, Stax Music Academy

“LBOE has a garlic burger. It’s no longer on the menu, but if you ask for it, they’ll make it. It has so much garlic, I can’t be around people after I eat it. But it is just divine. Not only is it flavorful, I love the smell of garlic. It’s just so relaxing. In another life, I would be a garlic farmer. Sometimes I get it as a turkey burger, too. And it’s consistently good.”

Marjorie Hass, President of Rhodes College

“I don’t eat hamburgers very often, but I am partial to the one served at Libro, the restaurant attached to Novel. A chance to browse at an actual brick-and-mortar bookstore is an increasingly rare treat. And then, to sit down to lunch over a new book and a delicious burger — perfectly cooked and covered in caramelized onions and melted cheese — makes for a perfect afternoon.”

Al Kapone

Al Kapone, Hip-Hop Artist

Al Kapone’s favorite hamburger is a toss-up between a Tops and a Dixie Queen cheeseburger. In both cases, he says, “There’s something about their cooked-to-order burgers. They both have that same almost diner burger thing about them. It’s the type burger you find in any mom-and-pop store that cooks burgers. And I want my onions grilled. Something about the grilled onion flavor I can’t explain. When they grill the onions, it gives a flavor the raw onions don’t give. I love that flavor. I think raw onions sometimes can be too strong.” And make sure and toast those buns. “If they toast the fresh bun and brush some butter on it as they toast it — oh, my God. I’m getting hungry. I want one right now.”

Mike McCarthy, Director, Sculptor, Preservationist

“I have to admit, my favorite burger is generally my most recent burger. Take last night, for instance. It was 9:30 p.m. and I was starving. Tops BBQ and Steak & Shake were closed, and the golden arches were as dark as burnt french fries. I found myself in the drive-through at Krystal on Poplar. I soon realized that I was having, perhaps not a favorite burger, but rather a most-ironic burger, a burger based in deep-rooted Memphis memories — yet no different than any other Krystal burger in any other American town. As I waited in line, I saw Krystal’s large poster advertising ‘The Hangover’ burger, which, naturally in these trying times, is now served 24-7.

“But I chose the No. 1 combo. I pulled into a parking space and began the time-honored process of getting shades of red and yellow all over my pants. I thought about how my parents would always eat at this particular Krystal when they would visit from Mississippi and how we process memories through physical shapes. But those dang Krystal marketing folks kept interrupting my thoughts with their class-struggle advertising: Each individual box containing my four burgers boasted the phrase ‘IF IT AIN’T BROKE …’ — which might really mean ‘If only we weren’t so bankrupt (in all meanings of the word), we could be eating somewhere else or enjoying a better life.’ If only Krystal restaurants looked as cool as they did in the 1950s, then I’d be feasting on Memphis history and I’d be doing it 24/7.”

Graham Winchester

Graham Winchester, Musician

Graham Winchester loves Memphis food as much as he loves Memphis music. His Instagram account has been his outlet for “Poor Man’s Food Reviews,” which he calls “30-second bursts of mania and sloppy eating. I love putting in my two cents about some food.”

Winchester won’t commit to naming an all-time winner but says his favorite burger “right now” is the B-Side Memphis Burger. “It’s new,” he says. “It’s kind of in that classic Soul Burger style, like Earnestine & Hazel’s, but it’s a little bit bigger. It’s a flat-top grilled burger. You get pickles and cheese and onions, and they give you mustard and mayonnaise on the side, so you can dabble with it as much as you want.

“It’s perfectly cooked, perfectly greasy so that the cheese and grease just kind of fill up the front of your mouth. It definitely reminds you of that Soul Burger flavor, but it’s really hardy. And it comes with fries, so you’re pretty fulfilled.”

Mark Greaney, Novelist

Memphis writer Mark Greaney (whose Bond-like Gray Man series of spy novels is now a staple on bookshelves everywhere), has two favorites: the house burger at Maximo’s on Broad for high-style days, and for everyday meals, the ever-popular Dyer’s burgers, famously marinated in their own ancient grease.

About the latter he says, “They are the perfect thickness, and the texture is amazing. (Anything fried is amazing!) They have an incredible beef flavor that blasts past the tanginess of the mustard and pickles.”

Categories
Cover Feature News

Burger Time! Taste-Testing 10 Great Memphis Burgers

Did you have a hamburger on the Fourth of July? Of course you did. You’re no dummy. Maybe it was a little burnt from the grill. Piled dangerously high with all the fixings. Maybe, just maybe, you broke out the mayochup.

That’s the thing about burgers. You can enhance them to Kim Kardashian-like proportions or just keep it as simple as the classic patty, pickle, onion, tomato, lettuce, bun. It’s all good.

We love a good hamburger, no matter how they’re made or what’s on them. So, in this, Burger Week, we’ve turned our eye toward some fine examples of restaurants taking the humble burger and turning it up to 11. Ever think to yourself that what this burger is missing is an onion ring? No worries here. We’ve got you covered. Think an egg-topped burger is everything? Don’t fret. It’s in there. Like your burger good and greasy? Well, sure, who doesn’t? It’s there, too.

For Burger Week, happening now through July 16th, some 26 restaurants are offering their chosen burger for the low low price of $5.99. Now that’s a deal you just can’t pass up. Let us know what you ate with the social tag #FlyerBurgerWeek.

Slider Inn

Flat Iron at Slider Inn

What’s the difference between a slider and a burger? A slider is a type of burger defined by its bun size. The term was originally applied to White Castle’s small burger with caramelized onions served on steamed buns. But in the last few years, “slider” has proven to be as elastic a word as “burger.”

You can get a classic American meal of three sliders and fries at Slider Inn, but they also sell a variety of exotic sliders, from a falafel to a jerk pork version. The buffalo chicken version is a personal favorite, and the Big Deuce will satisfy the hardiest appetite, but without a doubt the most extreme burger on the menu is the Flat Iron.

It begins with a chunk of steak that overflows the confines of the slider bun, covered in melted cheese and topped with the sautéed onions that were one of the original slider signifiers and crispy onion straws. Roasted red bell peppers round out the toppings, and horseradish aioli, a tasty nod to steak culture, serves as a condiment.

The meat is a little more al dente than ground beef, but the flavor is juicy and immensely satisfying. The two different kinds of onions work in delicious tandem, and the peppers add a little extra smoky sweetness. The Flat Iron is a burger that punches way above its weight.

— Chris McCoy

Slider Inn, 2117 Peabody, 725-1155

The Bluff

Babineaux at
The Bluff

The Bluff, a popular Cajun-themed bistro on the Highland strip near the University of Memphis, is divided essentially into several separate but connected spaces — outdoor patios, a sports-bar entry space with seven screens to keep you interested as you sip and munch, and an interior dining-room area with a stage for live entertainment.

Burgers are a major component of the sports-bar menu, and the Babineaux is one of several specialty burgers offered there. It requires some big bites to take it all in. It’s a pile. Compressed between its top and bottom buns are: a thick fried onion ring, a layer of more onion pieces (raw), generous pieces of lettuce, a hefty slice of tomato, bacon strips, and homemade remoulade sauce — all of this in the service of a thick half-pound hunk of burger, topped with melted pepper jack and cooked to your pleasure. Served with fries as a side. Add mustard or ketchup as thou wilt, and open wide.

It’s a lot for $12, especially considering that those jumbo-sized patties are hand-shaped from fresh meat delivered fresh daily from local sources. Nothing assembly-made here!

— Jackson Baker

The Bluff, 535 S. Highland, 454-7771

Farm Burger

No. 2 Vegan Burger at Farm Burger

Nestled in the heart of Crosstown Concourse, near the famous winding red stairs leading to Crosstown Arts, is one of my favorite burger joints in town. (And if we’re being honest, I’m something of a hamburger fanatic. I get misty-eyed thinking about the steamed hammy from the long-gone Three Angels Diner, and I celebrate the Flyer‘s Burger Week like it’s a national holiday.) I’ve been eating my way through Farm Burger’s delicious menu since they opened, and this cover story gave me the perfect excuse to check another of their burgers off my list.

Though I’m not a vegetarian, my love for burgers is big enough to include room for the occasional beefless version. And what’s more extreme than a burger without a hint of meat? Farm Burger’s No. 2 Vegan Burger boasts a gluten-free patty made of kale, quinoa, cremini mushrooms, sweet potato, caramelized onions, and a veritable smorgasbord of spices. Topped with cucumber salad and garlic-lemon tahini dressing, this mouth-watering slice of plant-based deliciousness is equal parts spicy veggie pattie and cool, crisp salad on top. As an added bonus, Crosstown’s schedule is so jam-packed with fun events that diners at Farm Burger might have the unexpected pleasure of being serenaded by big-band jazz while they eat, as I was. Thanks, Memphis Jazz Workshop.

— Jesse Davis

Farm Burger, 1350 Concourse in Crosstown Concourse, 800-1851

TJ Mulligans

Barbecue Burger at TJ Mulligan’s

There’s a lot going on in this concoction, most of it good. First, there’s the base, a seven-ounce slab of grilled ground beef. Plenty of meat, right? Nope. TJ’s steps it up by topping the beef patty with a pile of slow-smoked pulled pork. What? Yes. And there’s more! Like, jalapeño cream cheese, coleslaw, and a tangy barbecue sauce. That ought to do it, you’d think. But noooo. For good measure, they top this baby with crispy onion straws. It’s a crazy mix of textures and savory flavors battling it out in your mouth. Somehow it all works beautifully. But, fair warning: It’s huge, and you’re probably going to want to split this bad boy with somebody.

— Bruce VanWyngarden

TJ Mulligan’s, 1817 Kirby Pkwy, 755-2481

Hopdoddy

Breakfast Burger at Hopdoddy

If Scrubs taught me about one thing, it’s the unsurpassable satisfaction of brinner (in case you live under a rock, that’s breakfast for dinner). I can’t handle a big morning meal. Sausage is a bit heavy, bacon a tad greasy, pancakes too sweet, and biscuits? Instant nap time. Altogether, certain detriments to my get-up-and-go.

While I love brinner, I’ll admit, I was hesitant to order Hopdoddy’s Breakfast Burger. Its hefty patty is a combination of ground sausage, smoked ham, and beef — definitely not what you envision when readying to dive into a big, juicy burger. Would it be too sausage-y? Ground ham? But let me tell you, this thing is pretty darn good.

That interesting combo-meat-grind was spiced just right. And things got better from there, with super melty American cheese, herbed mayo, a scrambled egg patty (no runny yolk here), a couple strips of crisp bacon, and, in lieu of hash browns, a stack of crunchy “potato hay,” which is just a fancy term for fried shoestring potatoes. It’s all the fixings for the best of breakfast plates, but all piled nicely on a soft, fresh-baked bun. Surprisingly, 10/10: would order again.

— Shara Clark

Hopdoddy Burger Bar, 2-6 S. Cooper and 4584 Poplar, 654-5100 and 683-0700

Mortimer’s Restaurant

Oyster Rockefeller Burger at Mortimer’s Restaurant

The Oyster Rockefeller Burger at Mortimer’s began as a “pregnancy craving” by the restaurant’s owner Christopher Jamieson’s wife, Ashley.

The burger consists of an eight-ounce hamburger patty, four fried oysters, jack cheese, and spinach artichoke dip made of sautéed spinach, artichokes, cheddar, and cream cheese.

“I was sitting at home and I was pregnant with our first son, McCall,” Ashley says. “I was craving oyster Rockefeller. And you can’t eat oysters when you’re pregnant.”

She tried to think of a way to get that taste of the famous appetizer without the oysters. She called Christopher and said, “Bring a burger with spinach and cheese.” But she told him to leave off the oysters.

Ashley loved the result. She told Christopher, “We have to add the fried oysters. This is going to taste like oyster Rockefeller.”

“I knew it was going to be fantastic,” she says.

“We sell a ton of burgers and we sell a ton of oysters,” Christopher says. “This is a way we could put the two together. Kind of a no-brainer.”

Christopher originally listed the Oyster Rockefeller burger as a blackboard special. He added it to the menu — permanently — six months later.

McCall, is 4 years old. “So, the oyster burger is as old as he is,” Ashley says.

— Michael Donahue

Mortimer’s Restaurant, 590 N. Perkins, 761-9321

Dixie Queen

Cheeseburger at Dixie Queen

Where’s a good burger? I ask my kids. “Five Guys,” they say. “No,” I say, done that. Josh says, “Okay, I go to the Dixie Queen near where I live in Cordova, and when they hand you that brown paper bag with grease spots all over, you know it’s going to be good.” There’s around a dozen of the no-frills joints around town, so, I go to the one on Summer Avenue next to what used to be the Paris Adult Theatre (we shall now respectfully call it the Luciann), and order the single cheeseburger, with everything, regular fries, and, help me Lord, a chocolate shake. Emerging from the window was a brown paper bag with grease spots all over and a cheery “You have a blessed day.” The burger was mashed at the bottom of the bag, crinkle fries dumped on top (the wife disapproves as that indicates “frozen” and they were, in fact, not memorable). It was a thinnish patty with gobs of mayo. Some tomato slices and lettuce bits were, I reckon, not fresh from the garden. No matter. It was sloppy and tasty and required every last one of the napkins layered on top of the bag. Get a double or triple if the patty size isn’t to your liking. Don’t expect your doctor to approve.

— Jon W. Sparks

Dixie Queen, 2442 Summer, 567-4701

Mojo Cafe

Byron Donut Burger at Mojo Cafe

I’m kind of a burger snob. I like it plain and simple — just good meat between a bun. So when I ordered the Byron Donut Burger from Mojo Cafe, I was a little wary.

Still, because I adore burgers, and donuts were my first love, I was hopeful about the journey my taste buds would soon embark on.

As the name suggests, this baby is served on a warm glazed donut. The sweet aroma of the donut caught my attention first. Before biting into the work of art in front of me, I paused to admire the craftsmanship of the sliced donut, buttered and toasted to perfection. An egg fried over-hard, melted cheese, six ounces of beef, and slices of candied bacon sit between it.

The donut might seem like the star of the show, but the ground chuck patty, seasoned with care like a burger from your mom’s kitchen, is the real MVP. It doesn’t matter what accoutrements are on a burger, it won’t rise to the occasion if the beef doesn’t. Mojo’s did.

Mojo bills itself as the “Burger and Sammie Joint where we make the best burger and Sammies you’ve ever had,” and I might have never heard a truer statement.

The donut burger is only sold on Tuesdays and Saturdays.

— Maya Smith

Mojo Cafe, 7124 US Highway 64,
207-6041

LBOE

The Grizz at LBOE

The Grizz at LBOE is the monster truck of Memphis burgers.

It’s bulked up with double everything — double beef patties, double portions of hardwood smoked bacon, and double cheese (yellow and white American). The whole thing is Memphis-ized with a tasteful drizzle of barbecue sauce. It’s all dressed out with lettuce, tomato, and pickles.

And, yeah, it is a whole thing. At $14.95, The Grizz is the single most expensive item on the LBOE menu. Its enormity was apparent even as the waitress was carrying it from the kitchen. Its size was enough to raise a few eyebrows from fellow diners. I could swear I heard a low thud as she sat the burger on the table.

How on earth was I going to eat this thing? I decided it wasn’t going to be a polite affair, so I simply dove in and did the best I could. You know how your head shakes when you’re trying to take too big of a bite? Yep. And I came away with sauce and all that other burgery goodness all over me.

The taste is all-American. It ain’t flashy, but it’s everything you think a proper burger should be. Neither sleek nor subtle, The Grizz is a bonafide, badass hunger crusher.

— Toby Sells

LBOE, 2021 Madison, 725-0770

Second Line

The Cheeseburger at Second Line

Anyone ordering a burger at The Second Line by Kelly English should already know it will be out of the ordinary. For one thing, it’s not a burger joint, but one of the city’s best purveyors of New Orleans cuisine. For another, it’s run by a chef who’s been celebrated by Food & Wine magazine. Finally, the menu notes that this burger is served “Cooter Brown style.”

“It’s named after Cooter Brown’s Bar in New Orleans,” Second Line team member Christopher Williams tells me. “It’s an homage to their burger. So it’s got beef patties set side by side on our po’ boy bread, a little Creole seasoning, salt, pepper, American cheese, lettuce, tomato, pickle, and mayonaisse.”

But there’s an echo of a Memphis mainstay in this burger as well. “It has to meet the standard of the Tops cheeseburger,” Williams says. “Kelly was once asked, if he was gonna leave something for Santa Claus, what would it be? And he said a Tops cheeseburger.”

Indeed, this gem of a burger captures much of that no-nonsense goodness, which, it turns out, perfectly complements the earthy po’ boy qualities of its Crescent City references. With a side of Second Line’s epic battered onion rings, it makes for a wholly unique burger epiphany.

— Alex Greene

Second Line, 2144 Monroe, 590-2829

Categories
Letter From The Editor Opinion

Letter from the Editor

Y’all, Memphis could use more folks taking care of things and getting it done. I’m thinking of people like Tami Sawyer, the force behind the #TakeEmDown901 movement, and Wendi C. Thomas, who created and saw into fruition the MLK50 journalism project.

Enter Edward Bogard, who is opening Bogard, an upscale Southern restaurant in the old Stanley BBQ space (and before that Paulette’s) in Overton Square.

When it opens sometime in September, Bogard, under the guidance of seasoned restaurateurs Ed Cabagiao and Ben McLean, will serve a selection of Southern dishes, such as shrimp & grits, fried chicken, and mac-and-cheese.

Bogard is a creative type. The food should not only be edible but Instagrammable. “It’s going to be not only tasty,” he says. “You’re not going to want to eat it for a while and just take it all in. The plates and the way the food’s presented will be pretty cool.”

But this story begins with shoes. In 2009, Bogard started SoGiv, a shoe design company that gives 100 percent of its proceeds to causes fighting everything from Down syndrome to hunger.

It was through SoGiv that Bogard hooked up with former Grizzlies head coach Lionel Hollins and his son-in-law Preston Butt Jr., his new partners in Bogard.

In keeping with the mission of SoGiv, Bogard, will also be giving back. Specifically, a percentage of the restaurant’s net sales will go to the Mid-South Food Bank. Bogard expects to hand over $30,000 to the Mid-South Food Bank the first year, which translates to 100,000 meals. A percentage of the net of drink sales is earmarked for clean water as well.

There are an estimated 200,000 people in the area who face food insecurity. People who lack sufficient, nutritious food. Bogard aims to alleviate this through his restaurant.

“I wanted to do something like [SoGiv] on a more consistent basis,” Bogard says. “People don’t necessarily buy shoes every day, but people eat every day.”

Bogard says he saw his path about 10 years ago, and then the pieces started falling into place. It was when the Stanley BBQ site became available that he knew it was meant to be.

The name of the spot has always been a part of the vision. Bogard stands for Buy One Get a Rare Dish. “It’s been a vision replaying in my mind for years,” he says.

Bogard says he got his creative side from his father, who used to draw him Superman figures. His mother, a teacher, nurtured his philanthropic side.

“She would take all of my clothes very much in season and store them in the lockers in her classroom to give to the struggling families throughout the year,” Bogard recalls. “I remember one morning waking up and looking for my favorite outfit, shoes and everything, I see a kid with that outfit on, and I was all Man, I was looking all over for that outfit.

“My mom was teaching me at a very early age how to pay it forward and how to give back,” Bogard says.

Bogard designed a swoosh for his shoes years ago. It comprises seven continents strung together.

For Bogard, the swoosh serves as a roadmap. This restaurant in Overton Square is just the beginning. He’d like to see one in every city and then in every continent.

Bogard is set to open in September. 

• You want fries with that? The answer is always yes. We are not animals.

LBOE, the burger spot near Overton Square on Madison, is also in partnership with the Mid-South Food Bank. It started its Fries for Lives in December 2017. For every order of a fries purchased, a meal is provided through the food bank.

You can’t beat that. — Susan Ellis

Bruce is on vacation. His column returns next week.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

LBOE’s Champion Burger

LBOE team: Simmons, McGhee, Adams, and Shive

In early November, LBOE competed at the World Food Championships (WFC), taking the prize for Best Burger over some 70 other teams.

In April, they’ll go on to compete with the other category winners (steak, seafood, etc.) in the next round in April, vying for $100,000.

The prize-winning Eggs Benedict Burger

“It was more stressful than we thought,” says LBOE owner Tyler Adams, recalling how the team — Adams, Stephanie Simmons, Eric McGhee, and Tommy Shive — turned in one entry with just six seconds left on the clock.

LBOE qualified for the World Food Championships by pretty much sweeping the 2016 Best Memphis Burger Festival (Best Burger, Best Specialty Burger, and Overall Grand Champion).

After moving from the first round at WFC, the team made a breakfast burger for the second round. That burger featured a croissant bun, an egg, sausage, hash browns, and maple syrup aioli (!).

For the third round, all the teams had to incorporate an egg. Adams says he saw burgers with deviled eggs and omelets. “There are so many things you can do with an egg and burger,” he says.

LBOE went with an Eggs Benedict Burger with a brioche bun, bacon, arugula, a poached egg, and hollandaise sauce.

The trick, Adams says, was to turn out 11 perfect burgers (for 10 judges, one for presentation) with 11 perfectly done poached eggs (not easy) in 120 minutes starting from scratch (again not easy).

Adams calls the whole thing a “great experience” and winning “quite a shock.” But, he adds of the Eggs Benedict Burger, “We knew it looked good.”

Adams says the win has been great marketing for the restaurant. They’ve been hearing from regulars and non-regulars alike.

As for the big $100,000 April round, which will be on TV, Adams says the team will start prepping as soon as they learn the rules.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Update on LBOE, and Other News

CREDIT: Justin Fox Burks

Justin Fox Burks

• Quick update on LBOE, which shut down in April after a fire. 

Tyler Adams of LBOE writes in a email, “Construction has started. The roof should be done in a couple weeks then interior work can start. Hopefully September for opening. We will be at Burger Fest on August 28th.”

• Congrats to Babalu which won “Best Margarita” at last weekend’s Margarita Festival, put on by the Flyer. 

A good time was had by all. Check out the photos on our Facebook page. 

• More fun from the Flyer: Burger Week is coming up July 13th-19th. 

Restaurants across the city will be offering a $5 burger special during the week. 

More info to come … 

• First, there were beerings, and coming soon … brewcelets! 

• MasterChef Junior winner Logan Guleff is participating in the James Bear Foundations’s Blended Burger Project, which has a goal of serving healthier burgers. 

Chefs from across the country create burgers that incorporate mushrooms and then put them up for a vote. The top vote-getters win a trip to New York to cook at the James Beard House.

Guleff’s burger is the Mushroom Monster. Vote here.  

• Krystal is offering a limited time “Fired-Up” menu. Featured items  — burgers, corndogs, and chicken sandwiches — can be topped with a cheese sauce made with Tabasco sauce. There’s also a Fired Up combo. 

Through August 7th. 

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

LBOE’s Luther Burger

LBOE just opened up last October, but they’ve already come up with hundreds of burger creations. One sounded too amazing to pass up… and that’s the Luther Burger ($10.95).

The Luther Burger comes with an 8-ounce beef/hot sausage blended patty over a glazed donut, topped with American cheese, a fried egg and a Gibson’s maple bacon donut. I could smell the sweetness from the donuts the second the burger was placed in front of me.

The general manager and brains behind the burger, Tommy Shive said, “It’s definitely a fork and knife kind of burger,” he said. The burger is soft, juicy, and my favorite part… sweet and sugary. I was licking my fingers after every bite. The fried egg is creamy and it tastes great with the strong flavor of maple syrup. The meat is so tasty and definitely has a kick to it. It’s delicious. The bacon just adds texture. The burger has a hint of funnel cake flavor to it. I’m talking a high-class funnel cake. Shive did a fantastic job figuring out how to create an even balance between the flavors of the donut and the patty.

Dare I say it, this is the best burger I’ve eaten in Memphis. It’s so good that you forget that there are no condiments on it. That’s because you don’t need any. The patty itself is a star. When I finished, I found myself saying, “Well that’s gone. I want more.”

You’ll have to wait until the last Sunday of every month to get it, though. That’s the only time the Luther Burger is available. 

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

A Visit to Mac’s Burgers

I spontaneously took the day off from work on Monday and found myself at Mac’s Burgers sometime around 1 p.m.

The occasion called for day drinking .. 

This is the Mac Jack Lemonade ($8). I could smell the booze even before the drink was set on the table and thought maybe this isn’t such a good idea after all. (It was a great idea!) Made with Mac’s house-made frozen lemonade, this is made for summer. Delicious and refreshing. 

Other drinks include a Frozen Bellini and the Arnold Palmer Freeze (!).

Mac’s bills itself as a gourmet mac n’ cheese and burger bar. There are 15 burgers and 12 mac n’ cheese selections.

David Chang wrote a great Burger Manifesto, in which he says “My ideal burger is bun, cheese, burger” — except when it isn’t. I admire Mac’s creativity in the burger field (same folks own LBOE). There’s a burger topped with hot dogs, one dressed in Fritos and bacon, and one, of course, with mac n’ cheese. The most-straightforward burger has a mere three toppings: two types of cheese and butter. 

[jump]

I ordered the Southern Bell ($9.25), which is topped with pimento cheese and fried green tomatoes. All burgers can be ordered with single, double, or triple patties. They offer as substitute a spicy black bean burger and turkey burger. 

I’m pretty sure this is the same black bean patty they use at LBOE, which I like a lot, but it didn’t quite work with the particular burger I chose. The spiciness of this patty demands to be star of this show, and this ended up being literally a mess and a mess of flavors. Maybe I’ll try the Old School next time. 

I’m a mac n’ cheese fan (who isn’t?), so I ordered it as a side. There is no just plain ol’ mac n’ cheese; like with the burgers, Mac’s pushes it. You can get it with fried chicken, blackened chicken, garlic chicken, grilled chicken, brats, hot dogs, Philly steak, pulled pork, and shrimp … whew!

  
I ordered the Veggie ($8.95, for full dish), and I will say that Mac’s does mac n’ cheese really well. The sauce was very rich, almost buttery (maybe a bit much for a day creeping up to a 107 heat index) and I loved the spinach. 

The decor at Mac’s is nondescript, making a point that this joint is about the eating and the drinking. You get plenty of space for the latter, as there is a huge wraparound bar — leftover from Dan McGuinness, I’m guessing. 

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Mac ‘n’ cheese is taking over local menus.

CREDIT: Justin Fox Burks

Someone at Local Gastropub is a serious macaroni and cheese fan. Not only do they have Mac n’ Gruyere Tots ($9) on the menu, they just added an entire Mac ‘n’ Cheese Bar.

Let’s start with the tots. There are eight deep-fried and perfectly crispy balls to an order. They actually resemble hushpuppies more than tater tots. There’s a little shaved Gruyere melted on top and a side of spicy marinara sauce. Inside the tot is where the magic happens. The macaroni and cheese is positively gooey and delicious. Assuming you don’t pop the entire tot in your mouth, each bite leaves a nice string of melted cheese like a good slice of pizza. They taste pretty darn good on their own, but the marinara definitely takes them to the next level. So, to review: crispy, gooey, cheesy, saucy, yum!

Now about that Mac ‘n’ Cheese Bar. Their truffled mac ‘n’ cheese ($8) is the base. Then you have a number of toppings to add for an additional cost: lobster ($6), chorizo ($2), bacon ($2), short rib ($4), tasso ($3), and blue cheese ($2). I don’t think you can go wrong with this list of toppings, only right. The extra cheesy mac ‘n’ cheese comes out in a skillet, the size of which depends on the number of toppings added. Rather than the standard elbow, the Mac ‘n’ Cheese Bar features a long corkscrew noodle which has many aliases (cavatappi, cellentani, amori, spirali, tortiglioni, and fusilli rigati). I added short ribs to my order and the result was decadent and beyond delicious. It took restraint to only add one topping. There is clearly potential here to eat the most amazing, not to mention expensive, mac ‘n’ cheese of your life.

The newly opened Skybox Grill & Bar in Collierville features macaroni & cheese eggrolls ($8) as an appetizer. Macaroni and cheese EGGROLLS! If that’s not worth the trip east, I don’t know what is. They are everything I’d hoped they’d be and more. There are two large eggrolls to an order and they come sliced diagonally so there are actually four pieces. (I guess this means they want you to share, which just seems wrong.) The cut allows you to see the curly goodness inside and they are a sight to behold. They aren’t too cheesy and they also feature a longer corkscrew noodle rather than the standard elbow. The eggroll wrapper is super crispy, but in a flaky pie-crust way. These, too, taste great on their own, but it’s hard to resist the tangy dipping sauces that accompany them. There’s a zesty barbecue and a sweet & spicy “sirachi” sauce. Both get the thumbs up. Go on, drive to Collierville.

Finally, true mac ‘n’ cheese fans must try the Mac-N-Cheeseburger ($9.95) at LBOE. Like all burgers at LBOE, it features a lovely square ciabatta bun that is perfectly toasted and a nice, big never-frozen ground beef patty. On top of the meat is a nice scoop of homemade mac ‘n’ cheese with a nice helping of crumbled hardwood bacon. The mac ‘n’ cheese stays together pretty well. I only had one or two elbows try and escape while eating it. Think of this combination as a deconstructed Hamburger Helper. The flavors are very familiar but elevated. After a few bites it seems perfectly normal to eat a hamburger topped with mac ‘n’ cheese. In fact, one must wonder why no one thought of it sooner.

Local, 95 S. Main (473-9573)

2126 Madison (725-1845)

localgastropub.com

The Skybox Grill & Bar, 2140 W. Poplar (854-0509)

theskyboxgrilltn.com

LBOE, 2021 Madison (725-0770)

lboerestaurant.com

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

The things we ate in 2014.

CREDIT: Justin Fox Burks

Last winter, Holly Whitfield of the I Love Memphis Blog announced that Memphis is in the midst of a spectacular “Foodnado.” How apt! My cursory count of restaurants, breweries, and sundry food-related places that opened in 2014 adds up to 40, and not all of them in Overton Square.

But, then again, a lot of them are in Overton Square. Babalu Tacos & Tapas opened in June, offering tableside-prepared guacamole and lots of sharing plates. The place has been packed since. In August came Jimmy Ishii’s Robata Ramen & Yakitori Bar with a fine menu of ramen noodle bowls and skewers. Lafayette’s Music Room, an homage to the original much-loved, circa-’70s Overton Square bar named for the recently passed away ace bartender Lafayette Draper, opened in September and features wood-fired pizzas and a music schedule set at palatable hours. Schweinehaus, a cheeky Memphis take on German food, also opened in September. There’s beer, brats, and the occasional lederhosen sighting — what’s not to like? If you need olive oil, there’s the Square Olive, and there’s more music and fun at the Chicago-based Zebra Lounge.

Justin Fox Burks

Robata Ramen & Yakitori Bar

The most recent addition to Overton Square is Belly Acres, a farm-to-table burger restaurant, the latest of three burger-centric places to open in Memphis. This trend has our full endorsement. Belly Acres has a fantasyland interior and a menu that demands to be gone through one burger at a time. Down the street, there’s LBOE (Last Burger on Earth). Its menu raises the bar with such burgers as the super spicy Lava Me or Lava Me Not and the garlic-laden Love Stinks. Oshi Burger Bar downtown has something for everyone — beef burgers, tuna burgers, vegetarian burgers, gluten-free buns. They also have great milkshakes.

Justin Fox Burks

Oshi Burger Bar on South Main

Plenty of glasses have been raised at the taprooms opened in 2014 at High Cotton Brewing Co. and Memphis Made Brewing Co., and Memphis promises to get buzzier still in the new year with Pyramid Vodka. Wine in grocery stores finally passed, and while that doesn’t happen until 2016, local liquor stores are making the best of it with growler stations and more.

In grocery-store news: Whole Foods opened its expanded store in East Memphis, which includes a site-specific barbecue restaurant and a growler station. There’s the new Fresh Market in Midtown, and Kroger continues to show its commitment to Memphis in updating its stores, most recently the one at Cleveland and Poplar. Plus, there’s been some buzz about a Trader Joe’s opening sometime somewhere. We shall see.

In coffee news: Everybody freaked out when Muddy’s Bake Shop announced a new Midtown store in August 2013. Muddy’s Grind House opened this fall and offers a little of everything, from coffee to breakfast eats and yoga. The Avenue, near the University of Memphis, has great coffee and treats with Christian fellowship. There’s also Cafe Keough downtown in a gorgeous setting with a great cafe Americano. Tart offers quiches and more — a great go-to place when expectations are high. Ugly Mug took over the Poplar Perk’n space, and Jimmy Lewis, who founded Squash Blossom, returned to the scene with Relevant Roasters, selling wholesale, environmentally sound, and worker-friendly coffee with the motto “Every Cup Matters.”

After a few false starts, the Riverfront Development Corporation came through with Riverfront Grill. It serves a sophisticated but not too syrupy Southern menu and also has some of the best views in Memphis. Also new this year to downtown are the Kwik Chek spinoff Nacho’s, Marie’s Eatery in the old Rizzo’s Diner spot, and Cafe Pontotoc. Rizzo’s moved into the old Cafe Soul site, and there’s the Love Pop Soda Shop, a nifty craft soda shop.

In East Memphis, Skewer, serving Yakitori and ramen, opened in January. 4 Dumplings opened around the same time, and, as its name suggests, the menu is built around four dumplings. The vegan dumpling with tofu is not to be missed.

Since at least four people mentioned to me that Jackson Kramer’s Bounty on Broad is “secretly” gluten-free, I’m guessing it’s not really a secret. The dishes at this lovely farm-to-table spot are thoughtfully done and a delight to look at. The menu changes frequently, but at a recent dinner, there were mussels in fragrant coconut milk, charred broccolini, and creamed kale served over polenta. Also gluten-free is the Hawaiian import Maui Brick Oven, serving brick-oven pizzas and grain bowls.

Justin Fox Burks

Bounty on Broad’s Jackson Kramer

At Ecco on Overton Park, Sabine Bachmann’s cozy neighborhood restaurant, there are heaping dishes of pork chops, delicate pasta dishes, and artful cheese plates — something for every appetite. Strano Sicilian Kitchen & Bar serves a great roasted carrot soup and Italian classics from meatballs to pizza.

At press time, Porcellino’s, Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman’s latest venture, was due to open “any minute now.” File this one under “This Should Be Interesting.” This is a butcher shop/sundry/coffee spot/wine bar offering grab-and-go sandwiches, fresh pastas, cured meats, house-made pastries, and more.

Categories
Cover Feature News

What a Burger!

CREDIT: Justin Fox Burks

Burgers are having their moment in Memphis. Witness the three burger-centric places that opened just in the past few months — Oshi, LBOE, and Belly Acres. Now, don’t get us wrong, we love the classics from Huey’s, Earnestine & Hazel’s, and Kooky Canuck, but there are folks out there who are stretching the limit of what a burger is — from the raw, to the bunless, to the innovative flourishes. Here are 15 of the city’s most awe-inspiring takes on the all-American classic.

Justin Fox Burks

The Big Cheeser

The Big Cheeser

at El Toro Loco

The Big Cheeser at El Toro Loco is the perfect Mexican expression of an American favorite. It’s a basic cheeseburger topped with shredded lettuce, tomato, and pickled jalapeno. Then the entire burger is covered in melted Chihuahua cheese. The best part? It’s topped with a cherry! It comes out looking like a beautiful dinner/dessert hybrid. The cherry is really just for show, but the Chihuahua cheese has the delicious effect of steaming the bun underneath. While it does require a knife and fork, it is truly outstanding and should not be overlooked.

— Stacey Greenberg

El Toro Loco, 2617 Poplar (458-4414)

torolocos.com

The Burger

at Cafe 1912

In keeping with the French bistro ambiance of Cafe 1912, this burger is tres formidable, but with a gourmet feel. A hefty portion of premium ground beef is topped with Benton Farms bacon, Maytag bleu cheese (or provolone, if you prefer), roasted garlic aioli, red onion, fresh tomatoes, and lettuce, all served on a ciabatta bun. It’s accompanied by a pile of skinny, crispy pomme frites, none of which will be left on your plate. Cafe 1912’s burger is delicious and filling, and you’ll probably find yourself using a fork before dinner is over. This goes perfectly with a nice glass of Pinot Noir, or my favorite, a Duvel Belgian beer.

— Bruce VanWyngarden

Cafe 1912, 243 S. Cooper (722-2700)

cafe1912.com

The Big Smack

at Imagine Vegan Cafe

Two non-beef patties, special sauce, lettuce, cheese, pickles, and onion on a dairy-free bun. Isn’t that how the song went? Oh yeah, that was “all-beef patties.” Well, screw that song. Imagine Vegan Cafe’s meat-free version of the iconic McDonald’s sandwich is much better for the animals and your health. Their vegan burger patties have a toothsome, meaty texture (this ain’t no flimsy, hippie bean burger), and they’re guaranteed to hold together until the last bite. The dairy-free cheddar is so melty that you’ll need napkins (and maybe a fork). — Bianca Phillips

Imagine Vegan Cafe, 2299 Young (654-3455)

imaginevegancafe.com

Justin Fox Burks

The Greek to Me

The Greek to Me

at LBOE

The Greek to Me burger at recently opened LBOE (Last Burger on Earth) is the perfect choice for anyone desiring to sink their teeth into a flavorful delight with a twist.

Made-to-order with fresh ground beef, the juicy 8 oz. burger is cooked medium-well and dressed with sautéed spinach, tzatziki sauce, and a dollop of roasted garlic cream cheese. Two toasted and buttered ciabatta buns hold everything together.

The burger comes with chips. My recommendation: the spicy, eye-watering Nikki’s Hot Ass Chips.

Reasonably priced at $9.95, the Greek to Me is enough for two people to split and will leave you full and satisfied. — Louis Goggans

LBOE, 2021 Madison (725-0770)

lboerestaurant.com

The Pat LaFrieda Chopped Steak Burger

at Off the Hoof

First off, be aware that Off the Hoof is a fairly far piece, especially on a bad rainy night and even if (like me) you already live way out east. Once at Off the Hoof, though, you’ll be impressed by the crowds in the place (even on a bad rainy night), even if that makes for something like assembly-line service. Now, ready? The proprietors are specialists. Burgers are basically all they do, and their menu consists of infinite variations on that theme. (Anyone for ground boar? I kid you not.) I had their specialty, the Pat LaFrieda (beef) — which is, I was told, two kinds of steak, each ground and chopped into a coherent and well-textured patty. I had mine well-done with habanero pepper jack cheese simmered into the patty. Hearty and not overly spicy, even so. Several varieties of fries, too — including the sweet potato kind.

— Jackson Baker

Off the Hook Burgers, 12013 U.S. Highway 70, Arlington (867-3565)

offthehoofburgers.com

Stacey Greenberg

Bi Bim Bop Burger

Bi Bim Bop Burger

at Kwik Chek

Kwik Chek, which is known for its popular Korean dish, Bi Bim Bop, recently introduced the Bi Bim Bop Burger. Bi Bim Bop is typically served in a sizzling hot stone bowl and includes rice, meat of your choosing (or tofu), sliced veggies, bean sprouts, an over easy egg, and a spicy red sauce.

The Bi Bim Bop burger takes a cheeseburger and tops it with the veggies, beans sprouts, and egg. It is a beauty. And it is seriously messy. The addition of cheese and mayonnaise was a bit off-putting at first, but the flavors really come together nicely. If you are a fan of Bi Bim Bop, or just unusual burgers, it’s definitely worth a try. Grab several napkins and a fork.

— SG

Kwik Chek, 2013 Madison (274-9293)

Memphis Flyer Staff

Voodoo Moo-Moo

Voodoo Moo-Moo

at Belly Acres

Others would have played it safe. I’m not others.

“Go for something basic,” they’d say. “Develop a baseline for comparison.”

Blackened patty. Blue cheese. Sriracha aioli. How could I say no? I couldn’t, especially with all of the “Os” in Voodoo Moo-Moo eyeing me from the menu.

Plus, it’s tough to even get a “basic” burger at Belly Acres, the newest player on the city’s burger stage. The closest thing to standard is the Dare Ya, a bacon cheeseburger with “acre sauce.”

Not sure if Belly Acres was going for a New Orleans kind of thing with the Voodoo Moo-Moo. It’s a guess based on the name, the blackened-ness of the thing, and the presence of aioli. Also, on the menu it’s sandwiched between burgers with Mexican and Italian influences.

But after the first bite, the name barely mattered. Something magical happened when the blue cheese hit the caramelized onions, the blackened beef, and the perfectly placed pickles. When it happened to me, I closed my eyes in a moment of involuntarily and very public burger worship. No, I was not transported to the Crescent City but to hamburger heaven.

The Voodoo Moo-Moo is just one daring burger on a list of daring burgers from Belly Acres. Chorizo. Waffle buns. Pork belly. Guacamole. Maple ketchup. The menu alone has put Belly Acres on the Memphis burger map, and if it maintains the quality I got Monday, it is destined to be a hotspot for a long time.

— Toby Sells

Belly Acres, 2102 Trimble (529-7017)

bellyacres901.com

Stacey Greenberg

Tora Toro

Tora Toro

at Oshi Burger Bar

Newly opened Oshi features its own Asian-inspired burger, the Tora Toro. It is made from house ground Ahi tuna and is topped with “crushed” avocado, Asian slaw, sesame seeds, and umami mayo. It’s super tasty, especially with a side of their thin and crispy French fries, which are served with a spicy ketchup that has its own Asian flare. For die-hard burger fans, it is a nice change from the typical beef patty and is maybe even a tad healthier? At the very least it is a great way to get your pescatarian friends to join you at the trendiest new burger joint downtown. — SG

Oshi Burger Bar, 94 S. Main (341-2091)

oshiburger.com

Marrow Burgers

at home

Take charge! Why wait around on a burger like a chump? Charlie’s Meat Market on Summer (aka the Avenue of Delights) will set you up with the latest rage: marrow burgers. There are a trillion recipes online, but basically you get beef bones and some chuck, knife the marrow out of the bones, salt and pepper the beef, and wad it all into patties. Grill, griddle, whatever. The result is a crazily moist, beefy burger (if you’re like me) or a lipid-sodden meat sponge (if you’re like my wife). Bring some acidity: a pepper relish, pickles, or a Malbec. — Joe Boone

Charlie’s Meat Market, 4790 Summer (683-1192)

charliesmemphis.com

Stacey Greenberg

Ecco Burger

ECCO Burger

at ECCO on Overton Park

ECCO on Overton Park’s signature ECCO burger features a spicy Chorizo sausage patty and is served on a homemade bun. Inside you’ll find melted manchego cheese and garlic aioli. It’s quite sophisticated, but don’t be fooled. It’s not for the weak of stomach as it packs a punch. — SG

1585 Overton Park (410-8200)

eccoonovertonpark.com

The Bacon Burger Wrap

at 5 Guys Burgers and Fries

There are several gourmet options for gluten-free burger lovers these days, but when you’re on the go and only have time for fast food, you may have to forget about the bun. In that case, 5 Guys has you covered. For those who prefer their food in a pile, 5 Guys will drop any of their burger combinations into a bread-free bowl, but the lettuce wrap is so much more convenient and burger-appropriate. The bacon burger is comprised of two flat-top-grilled burger patties and a healthy serving of crispy bacon. It’s tasty, if a little plain, but it can be gussied up with grilled onions and jalapenos, and a wide range of condiments and toppings that are available at no extra charge. What’s special about this burger is the care that’s taken in wrapping it in large, pliable, but still slightly crunchy lettuce leaves. You may begin to wonder why anybody would ever use a bun in the first place. — Chris Davis

5 Guys Burgers and Fries, multiple locations

fiveguys.com

Justin Fox Burks

The Colossus

The Colossus

at 3 Angels On Broad

I must hurry and finish this blurb before I slip into meat-induced catatonia for I have just eaten a Colossus. The most aptly named burger on our list stands astride the menu at the recently revamped 3 Angels On Broad as a towering achievement in burger architecture. The burger is a half pound of lean chuck fried to perfection, married with smoked gouda, and topped with two thick strips of bacon. On the opposing bun, a garlic mayo base supports pickles, tomatoes, slaw, and a nest of thin, crispy fried onions. This is the burger to have if you’ve been fasting for a few days, or if you’re ready to settle down into a long winter’s nap. — Chris McCoy

3 Angels on Broad, 2617 Broad (452-1111)

3angelsmemphis.com

Memphis Flyer Staff

Cashew Burger

Cashew Burger

at 2 Vegan Sistas

This raw vegan burger may well be the healthiest burger in town. Finely ground seasoned cashews are shaped into a patty and covered in pickles, onions, ketchup, and mustard. It’s served on a heart of romaine, but those with heartier appetites can request gluten-free bread. Pro tip: Order the bread on the side and take a bite with each forkful of cashew burger. To complete this super-healthy version of the all-American meal, order 2 Vegan Sistas’ take on a chocolate milkshake — the Carob Smoothie, made with carob, tahini, and almond milk. — BP

2 Vegan Sistas, 6343 Summer, Suite 100 (1-800-984-0379)

twovegansistas.com

Justin Fox Burks

The Ramen Burger

The Ramen Burger

at South of Beale

Brittany Cabigao, one of the operating partners of South of Beale, says they added a Ramen burger as a special to their menu after hearing about the New York craze. Ramen noodle master Keizo Shimamoto blew people’s minds with his bun made from crispy Ramen noodles at his restaurant Ramen Co.

The burger, topped with spinach and a homemade ramen sauce, was supposed to be a one-day thing, but proved so popular they added a second day. And while Cabigao doesn’t think the Ramen burger would ever make it on South of Beale’s regular menu, the burger will be on special this week as well as New Year’s Eve. — SG

361 S. Main (526-0388)

southofbeale.com

Justin Fox Burks

The Barbecue Burger

The Barbecue Burger

at Tops Bar•B•Q

Any burger fan cannot consider him/herself truly serious without a visit to Tops Bar•B•Q. While many may be aware of their famous barbecue sandwiches and many may have heard that their cheeseburgers have a cult-like following, it is only a few who have dared to combine the two. For the Barbecue Burger, order a burger and ask for an ounce of pork, slaw, and barbecue sauce. Depending on which Tops you go to, the extra meat may be underneath the hamburger patty. Seth Agranov, founder of the Best Memphis Burger Fest, says, “The barbecue should be on top, not under the burger. Placement counts!” He suggests going “all in” and adding an extra hamburger patty.

It seems like a lot for one bun to handle, but the burger/barbeque combo goes down surprisingly well. It’s so good that it may be gone before you get a chance to fully appreciate it. — SG

Tops Bar•B•Q, multiple locations

topsbarbq.com