Categories
Opinion The Last Word

Immigrant Stories: Manuel Rivera Martínez

Editor’s note: This is part four in a five-part series focusing on immigrant contributions to our nation and city. 

Thirty-one years ago, Manuel Rivera Martínez, from Morelia, made the difficult decision to follow his father to California. He was 15. Morelia, the capital of the state of Michoacán in Central Mexico, is a lovely colonial city that has been ravaged, recently, by gang-related violence.

Martínez grew up in a house with seven siblings and developed his entrepreneurial skills from his mother. “My mother, who recently passed, would sell menudo [a traditional tripe soup] and quesadillas out of our house to earn a little extra money,” he says.

When Martínez followed his father to California a few years after his dad left, he hoped that an opportunity for an education awaited him. Instead, father and son worked in Pomona for a company that repaired and resold wood pallets. Then Martínez moved to Merced County and worked on a dairy farm. He worked for Gallo picking grapes and made about $180 or $190 per week. “People worked 12-hour shifts — 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. and then 6 p.m. to 6 a.m.,” he says. “Hard work, and people worked constantly, there were few breaks in the fields, even for water.”

From California, Martínez moved to the Pacific Northwest and worked in restaurants. He eventually made it to Memphis and found employment in a Japanese restaurant where he met his wife Lisha. Initially, they were just friends, and he did not pursue a romantic relationship because he knew inside that he had “no chance.” When he finally asked her out, she said yes! Years later, they’re raising two children: Preston, who attends Dexter elementary, and Mia, their 2-year-old daughter.

Martínez landed in Memphis about 16 years ago and is proprietor of the popular taqueria Maciel’s. The business started Downtown on South Main; now, Martínez has a restaurant on South Cooper, a newly opened location in Bartlett, and plans are underway for another on Summer Avenue. “Memphis is a welcoming city,” he says. “We have issues, but I want people to see the bright side, and if you love what you do, Memphis has the potential to let you do it.”  

Martínez illustrates this by reminding us of a tragic event at his Downtown restaurant. “In July 2017, the roof caved in while patrons were dining, and I was ready to shutter the business, but the Downtown community came together and held a fundraiser.” No one was seriously injured and approximately $8,000 was raised. “This money allowed me to pay my employees for three months” while the restaurant was rebuilt, he says. The generosity and kindness of the Memphis community gave Martínez strength, encouraging him to stay in business.   

After Maciel’s reopened, Martínez developed a deep love for this community and the neighbors who literally saved his business. He works 12- or 14-hour days to keep the business moving along. And he explains the origins of the name Maciel’s: “It’s my father’s name, Manuel, but they misspelled it on his birth certificate as “Maciel” and it sort of stuck. But we’ve kept the name; in fact, my 9-year-old boy is named Preston Maciel Rivera.”

He credits Lisha, who he refers to as his best friend and most trusted advisor, with pushing him to open the first restaurant. Many advised him against trying to open a business because he had only $40,000 in savings for start-up capital. “In fact, one real estate professional told me to open a food truck,” he says. Martínez wasn’t offended by the off-hand comment; rather, he saw it as a challenge.

While walking down Main Street, Martínez and Lisha saw a “restaurant for sale” sign. They were able to “buy all the equipment from a pizza restaurant that occupied the space.” The landlord was excited about a family starting a business in the location. The stars aligned, or as Martínez says, “I believe we all have a destiny. That there is a book with something written for each of us and that it is designed for you. You have to be sure not to miss the signals. This place was there for me.”

Martínez seems likely to stay put here in Memphis. “People come here because they find what they like to do and you should always follow your passions.” Neither Martínez nor his father, who now lives in Mexico, were able to continue their formal education. “I want my kids to be able to attend college or start their own business or combine the two.” 

For Martínez, the ideal business is one where everyone working makes a decent amount of money and only works one job. Because of this ethos, many of his employees have been with him since he started nine years ago.

“Everyone needs to be treated with dignity, no matter what job they have,” says the man who has worked his way up to ownership of a successful restaurant enterprise here. “I’m really fortunate that I chose Memphis, which is a long way from Morelia, Mexico, but this is a great place to raise a family and run a business.” 

Bryce W. Ashby is an attorney at Donati Law, PLLC. Michael J. LaRosa is an associate professor of history at Rhodes College.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Maciel’s Hoping to Reopen Next Week

Maciel’s, Facebook

Good news, taco and torta fans, Maciel’s is shooting to reopen by end of next week, Friday or Saturday.

The restaurant has been closed since a fire in July.

A fire in the building at 45 S. Main collapsed the ceiling in the restaurant on Saturday, July 15th. A least two fund-raisers were held for Maciel’s.

According to owner Manuel Martinez, customers can expect the same of everything — from the menu to the decor.

“We’re just happy that we can finally open back up,” he says.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Maciel’s, South Main Sushi, and 387 Pantry open on South Main

Have you heard? Downtown is back. Over the last 15 years, while the population of Memphis has essentially remained flat, downtown has grown by a staggering 25 percent. And as the people have come back, so has the food. Lately two new restaurants and a gourmet grocery have opened along South Main.

The first is Maciel’s Tortas & Tacos, just across the alley from DeJaVu. It’s a tiny restaurant that serves up big flavors, perfect for a casual lunch. Owner Manuel Martinez is from La Michoacán, and family recipes comprise much of his menu.

One of my favorites is the chicken tinga tacos ($9). In Memphis, so much meat is oversauced, from pulled pork to jerked chicken. But these tacos strike the right balance; they are smoky and earthy with just the right level of spice. I also like the guacamole ($3.50), which resembles pico de gallo in that everything is chopped — nothing pureed or mushed.

Martinez says he wants to grow his dinner service, and the food is certainly there. But if he wants to appeal to a downtown dinner crowd, he may have to soften his décor. In its current incarnation, Maciel’s is a symphony of gray, with hard surfaces barely relieved by hand-drawn butcher diagrams.

Moral of the story? Office workers may not mind a no-frills lunch, but in the evening, they long for a little romance.

Maciel’s Tortas & Tacos, 45 S. Main, 526-0037

facebook.com/macielstortastacos

Now, I’m all for fine dining, but most of us can’t afford to eat at Erling Jensen every night. That’s why restaurants like South Main Sushi & Grill are so welcome. The food is tasty, the ambiance is inviting, and you won’t need a second mortgage to pay the check. Owner Ian Vo says he learned that lesson at Ryu Sushi Bar on Summer, which he has managed since 2010.

Vo is Vietnamese, but he has been cooking Japanese food since age 18, when he started flipping shrimp on the grill at Benihana. (“I incorporated magic tricks into my act,” he brags. “I could make an egg stand up all by itself.”) He was recruited into the business by his father, Van Vo, who today rolls all the sushi at the new restaurant on South Main.

This is one good reason to order the sashimi sampler ($9). In typical Japanese fashion, it’s sculptural and minimalistic, a feast for the eyes and the tongue. From there, graduate to gyoza (steamed dumplings, $7), because no one ever regretted a dumpling. If you’re sharing, round out the meal with the spicy seafood udon ($19), which is everything I want in a noodle dish: savory, spicy, and full-bodied.

South Main Sushi, 520 S. Main, 249-2194

facebook.com/southmainsushiandgrill

For those who haven’t had the pleasure, Stock & Belle inhabits an ultra-chic, minimalist space near the National Civil Rights Museum. They sell a bit of everything: clothes, furniture, cut flowers, fancy haircuts, local art. That may sound chaotic, but it works because it’s so well-curated.

In the words of founder Chad West, “It feels like home, and everything’s for sale.”

That same aesthetic applies to the ensuite grocery, 387 Pantry. Here you can find artisan sugar cubes, almond-ginger nut butter, fancy cured ham, Norwegian cream cheese, honeycomb, heirloom grits, Jamaican ginger ale, barbecue pickles, and (of course) bottle openers made in-house from recycled skateboards.

Justin Fox Burks

All right, it ain’t Kroger, but you can definitely build a meal here. For example, at the urging of curator/general manager Josh Conley, I picked up a north Georgia Candy Roaster squash ($8) from Hanna Farm. A hard-to-find heritage vegetable, it’s like the Incredible Hulk to a butternut’s Bruce Banner.

Back home, I baked it in the oven with salt and olive oil, then served it with a fig and balsamic butter ($6) from Banner Butter and sauteed pancetta ($10) from Pigasus. The squash had a nutty flavor, which was beautifully complemented by the salty pancetta and the tangy butter. Best part? Everything was local.

“Cities are judged by their food,” Conley says. “So how cool is it to point at something in the grocery store and say, ‘You know, we made that?'”

387 Pantry, 387 S. Main, 734-2911

instagram.com/387pantry