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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Good People: ‘Bama’s Best Beer

Any beer nerd will tell you that one of the great things about the whole craft beer scene is traveling someplace and discovering some new and fantastic brewery while you are away from your hometown go-to. The downside of this hyper-local arrangement is that when you go home, you’re out of luck if you crave that beer you found while traveling. Like so much else in life, craft beer nerdery cuts both ways.

I have some friends, real baseball geeks, who will not return from their spring training trip in the droopy end of Florida without a couple of cases of Pulp Friction Grapefruit IPA from Motorworks Brewing. So, passing through the Madison Growler shop the other day, I was pleased to see two selections from Good People Brewing out of Birmingham, Alabama. Good People have been making beer, legally at any rate, since 2008. I dropped in on them a few years ago, unannounced, for an interview. They were strictly local then, but were kind enough to show me around and talk beer. Alabama was pretty early — by Southern standards — in adopting laws friendly to craft brewers. It shows. If you can’t get out to North Carolina, you could do a lot worse than drinking your way around northern Alabama. They also pointed out that said changes were recent enough to make all the “Murffbrau” I brewed up in my room at the University of Alabama entirely illegal.

If you can’t get to Alabama, at least you can get to Midtown, where two Good People beers are currently on tap at the Cash Saver. What is interesting about their Muchacho is that most craft brewers like to harken back to the great beer brewing cultures of Europe for their inspiration. Good People looked south of the … wall, steel slats, questionable logic? … (Well let’s just call it the border for now) to make a drinkable Mexican-style lager. It’s light and crisp and doesn’t linger very long on the palate. It will pair beautifully with the sort of tacos you get on Summer Avenue. Or for that matter, fried chicken or catfish. With an ABV of 4.8 percent, you can drink enough to battle the spice.

The theory that we put lime in Mexican beer because it inherently needs help is simply not true. Muchacho is the cosmic ideal of either Corona or Dos Equis, wonderful on its own without any assist. Still, a squeeze of lime gave it a little pop. Don’t be a beer racist: If it’s okay for the Belgians to do it with oranges, it’s okay for the Mexicans to do it with limes.

The other selection was a Winter Ale called Denim Downhiller. According to the Urban Dictionary, the term describs a skier of the Appalachian alps who wears jeans instead of snow pants, is rockin’ a mullet, and almost certainly a denim jacket. This ale is a tribute to that guy. Budweiser may be the king and Miller the champagne, but Denim Downhiller is the mustache of beers. It’s earthy and toasty, but I’m not entirely sure why it’s called a Winter Ale. It tastes like a nut brown to me, and fans of the brown/red ales will feel right at home. Perhaps the season to which the Good People are referring is the one in LA (read: Lower Alabama). They really don’t have anything we’d call a winter down there.

Denim Downhiller was a little sweet for my tastes, not quite syrupy. At 5.6 percent ABV, it is higher in alcohol than the Muchacho, but nothing that’s going to knock you off the slopes, as it were. At 18 IBU, it has got a lot more hops to it as well, but a toasted malt counterweight balances this beer out.

Speaking as an alum — and a former resident and unintentional bootlegger from the great state of Alabama — I would advise you to hurry. After Clemson managed to out “Bama” Alabama the other night, the state might just drink itself dry.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Tailgating Time

Ever since Milo of Croton reportedly carried an ox across the Olympic stadium before killing, roasting, and eating the thing in a single day, sports fans have been tailgating. Tailgate parties are about the easiest entertaining there is — which is probably why men are allowed to throw them. It’s casual. Your clothes are supposed to have team logos and numbers on them and probably someone else’s name across the back. Small talk is replaced by deep and unwieldy philosophical discussions on the impending cosmic implications of The Game.

It should be pointed out, however, that these primordial get-togethers aren’t as easy as they were back in Milo’s day, or even back in mine. When I was in college, there were only about three beers, and they all tasted exactly alike. Budweiser was slightly more expensive than Miller, which made it more sophisticated. (I swear I had a friend who drank Bud when scoping for a date because he thought it made him look like a bon vivant. Nowadays, he pulls the same stunt with Range Rovers.)

Cheap domestic beers still have plenty of fans, people who like them because they’re used to the flavors and those beers take them back to yesteryear, a carefree time when you could drink a beer without having to talk about it. But those days are in the past for most of us. Now, if you set out a cooler of Budweiser or Coors at your tailgate, you’re going to look like you’re just mailing it in.

Cash Saver

Having a nice variety of beers is the key to the modern tailgate party. And when I want variety, I head to the Madison Growler and Bottle Shop, a sort of shop within a shop at the Cash Saver on Madison. The growler station sports about 30 local and regional brews on tap. And one aisle over, in what I like to call the “Glorious Hall of Beer,” there are 300 or so varieties.

I like Tin Roof, which has an aptly named Gameday IPA that hits the mark. It’s got some hop to it that’s balanced out with citrus, so it isn’t wildly bitter. And not to be too blunt about it, but at 4.3 percent ABV, you can safely drink a fair amount of it. Also, I know it’s a marketing gimmick, but speaking as one of the eight living Americans who actually like reading William Faulkner, I also like Yalobusha’s Snopes Family Pilsner. I should add, generally speaking, you can’t go wrong with a Pilsner at an early season tailgate. They’re lighter in flavor and alcohol, and more suitable for warm weather.

Speaking of Faulkner, it’s best to avoid moonshine because, well, it’s moonshine. You might think you can hold it, but you can’t. No one can. Not even Faulkner, although he never seemed to get the memo. That edict goes for most hard liquor at a tailgate. Sure, there is always the tried-and-true Bloody Mary, but go easy; game day is a marathon, not a sprint.

And there’s always the wine option, though with all due respect to Milo of Croton, who supposedly consumed 18 liters of wine daily (probably to wash down the ox), vino just seems out of place at a tailgate. Instead, consider cider. I know. The very word conjures up both the insufferably trendy and antebellum family heirlooms in the same breath. Which is no mean feat. That said, Sonoma Cider and Smith & Forge both make good hard ciders that aren’t too sweet. But do check the ABV, some of the newer ciders really pack a wallop. Still, while I’m no doctor, I did go to a lot of med school parties, so I’m pretty sure something made of apples can’t be too bad for you.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

New Beers from Ghost River and Memphis Made, etc.

• Madison Growler is hosting a launch Friday night, 6-9 p.m., for Ghost River Hornet’s Revenge. 

This is the first release in Ghost River’s Brewers series. 

From the event’s Facebook page: 

This brew from Cory York is a black pale ale. Cory, who’s nickname is Hornet, says that this beer doesn’t look or smell like a pale ale but drinks like one. Amarillo hops are used and impart quite a bit of fruity notes on the palate. Make sure you are one of the first to try this brand new beer!

Memphis Made has teamed up with T.J. Mulligan’s for a limited edition red ale named Sully. It debuts today at LBOE, Dan McGuinness in East Memphis, TJ Mulligan’s on Highway 64, TJ Mulligan’s at Trinity Commons, TJ Mulligan’s at Kirby and Poplar, and TJ’s Pub. 

The beer is named after Richard Sullivan, a Memphis Made co-owner. 

• Memphis magazine’s 901 Blog has details on proposed plans from the City Market owners for a new Second street convenience store and liquor store. The liquor store side of the plan would be called Quench Wine & Spirits.