Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Let’s Eat Out

Call it a new spin on a much-loved meal, or simply say: Spindini Sunday brunch. Either way, it’s delicious Italian comfort food from Chef Joe Cartwright.

The popular dinner-only restaurant on South Main Street started brunch last Sunday to accommodate its downtown neighbors, said Kevin Darker, operations manager. “We are surrounded by lots of new condos, and people are looking for a neighborhood restaurant where they can relax and have brunch,” he said.

Served from 11 a.m. until 2 p.m., the mix-and-match menu sounds delicious. A $6 cold buffet includes pastries, fresh fruit, bruschetta, and breakfast pizza. A hot buffet, also $6, offers potato and lobster hash, roasted garlic egg strata, creamy polenta with smoked mozzarella, and rigatoni with sausage and vodka sauce.

Entrées on the à la carte menu are $20, and that includes both hot and cold buffets. Among the seven entrées are Italian eggs Benedict and a frittata made with sausage, bacon, tomatoes, and mozzarella.

“We also have champagne and Bloody Mary specials, because this is downtown,” Darker said, “and everyone likes their drinks.”

If you can’t make Sunday bunch, consider stopping by Spindini on Monday evenings when all pizzas and bottles of wine under $75 are half-price. The restaurant opens at 5 p.m.

Spindini, 382 S. Main,

spindinimemphis.com (578-2767)

Here’s a good reason to get downtown a little early: Market Café on Madison has started serving breakfast, offering frittatas, burritos, and fried-egg-and-bacon breakfast burgers.

“We also have quiche: a Southern-style quiche with ground beef, bacon, and sausage and a whole-grain quiche with veggies only,” said Teresa Johns, the café’s new chef.

Along with quiche, the café is serving oatmeal, grits, biscuits, bacon, sausage, scrambled eggs, fresh-squeezed orange juice, and build-your-own omelets. Beignets are served for breakfast and lunch, along with apple strudel, six-berry cobbler, chocolate crumble, and cheesecake.

“I love to bake, but I love to cook too,” said Johns, who was the pastry chef at Blues City Pastry on South Main until it closed last year. “I’m fusing my French culinary training with Las Vegas international cuisine. It’s going to be fun.”

Johns’ culinary accomplishments are impressive. She apprenticed under Thomas Keller at the French Laundry in Napa Valley, served as a chef de cuisine at Bobby Flay’s Mesa Grill, and worked as the executive pastry chef for Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino in Las Vegas.

At Market Café, her creative flavor combinations kick up a straightforward lunch menu: The pecan tarragon chicken salad is mixed with apples and herb aïoli ($7); the pan-roasted salmon sandwich is served with cilantro slaw and house vinaigrette ($8.50); and the sexy Mexi burger is topped with jalapenos, avocado sauce, sour cream, pico de gallo, lettuce, and onions ($8).

Owner Ed Bell is enthusiastic about Johns reinventing his kitchen. “She brings a wealth of knowledge, experience, and charm to our restaurant,” he said.

Market Café is open Monday through Friday from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. It is closed on weekends.

Market Café, 149 Madison,

memphismarketcafe.com (577-0086)

The display of $5 Bears’ Lair stacked near the checkout of Liquor & Wine Depot in East Memphis caught the attention of everyone in line, including me. “What’s it taste like?” I asked owner Greg Cross.

“It’s good,” Cross answered. “It’s our version of Two Buck Chuck.”

Two Buck Chuck is the Charles Shaw label of wines sold exclusively by Trader Joe’s grocery stores for $2 a bottle. The California wine is made from excess grapes, so the taste can differ from one batch to the next.

“I’ve heard people buy a bottle, open it in the car and taste it, and if they like it, come back in and buy a case,” the woman behind me said.

Available in Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, Bears’ Lair was released this month in Memphis by the same company that distributes Two Buck Chuck. The grapes are grown in California’s Lodi district. “That’s a really high-end area,” Cross said. “We’re already seeing re-buys.”

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Let’s Do Lunch

Downtown businessmen Ed Bell and Jonathan Byrd were
frustrated with their lunch options, so they opened a restaurant two
weeks ago across the street from their office.

Their restaurant, called Market Café, features a
changing selection of seasonal food in a cheerful, casual setting. It
serves lunch only, Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

“It’s everything we wanted in a lunch place,” Bell says. “The food
is high-quality, fresh, and reasonably priced.”

The cafe is located on the south side of Madison between Second and
Third streets in the storefront formerly occupied by Smitty’s Place
Restaurant. Kjeld Petersen is the café’s culinary
consultant, and D.J. Pitts, formerly of Interim, is the
chef.

“We don’t know anything about running a kitchen, but we know what we
like to eat,” Byrd says, crediting Petersen’s expertise in developing
the menu. “We also want to support other local businesses and be
sensitive to the environment.”

To accomplish both goals, the restaurant is becoming Project Green
Fork-certified and buying local when possible. A chalkboard near the
front door lists daily soup specials (last Wednesday: mushroom barley)
along with the restaurant’s regionally sourced foods.

The menu’s salads, plate lunches, and sandwiches are simple but
sophisticated. Try an apple salad with petite greens, sweet onion,
bacon, cheddar, and grit cake for $8; sweet-potato ravioli with sage
cream sauce and toasted pumpkin-seed garnish, also $8; or a
mushroom-stuffed chicken breast with prosciutto, roasted potatoes, and
brioche toasts for $9. Sandwiches (chickpea fritter, chicken-curry
salad, pot roast and cheddar, and smoked chicken and brie) range in
price from $7.50 to $8.50.

On the way out, don’t miss the baked goods by the register. I went
for a marshmallow-topped brownie. Think granola bar meets s’mores, but
don’t think about sharing. You’ll want every bite for yourself.

Market Café, 149 Madison (577-0086) memphismarketcafe.com

Last summer, when Jeff Corrigan and Les Carloss
relocated Bluff City Bayou from the Medical Center to Midtown,
they swore off lunch.

“We only wanted to serve dinner,” Corrigan remembers, laughing. “But
we underestimated how many of our customers would keep clamoring for
lunch.”

In early October, Corrigan and Carloss finally relented to customers
and added lunch to their New Orleans-centric eatery. “It’s been busy
and fun, and it gets me out of bed in the morning,” Corrigan says.

The lunch menu, available from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., duplicates dinner
fare, except for entrée and appetizer specials, offered only in
the evening. Po-boy and muffuletta sandwiches, along with seafood soup
du jour and gumbos, are popular at lunchtime, says Corrigan, especially
during wet and cool weather.

“Every week or two for lunch, we also rotate in
étouffée,” Corrigan says, which is served with rice, like
gumbo, but made with a lighter roux. Bluff City Bayou, 2117 Peabody
(274-8100)

Click on downtowndiningweek.com, and the
number of three-course dinners, all priced at $20.09, is a little
overwhelming. How about this from Felicia Suzanne’s: crispy Louisiana
oysters in barbecue sauce, wild Gulf shrimp and andouille sausage
sautéed in Creole sauce, and white chocolate and coconut bread
pudding for dessert? Or maybe you’d prefer these yummy courses from
McEwen’s on Monroe: soup of the day, grilled pork loin with apple
brandy sauce, and chocolate brownie with vanilla ice cream and caramel
rum drizzle?

In all, 20 downtown eateries are offering two fixed-priced dinners
for the Downtown Dining Week promotion. In addition to Felicia
Suzanne’s and McEwen’s, participants include Bangkok Alley, Kooky
Canuck, Automatic Slim’s, Circa, Sole, the Pig on Beale, Wang’s,
Rendezvous, the Majestic Grille, Bluefin, Tug’s, Bardog, South of
Beale, Mesquite Chop House, Spindini, and Itta Bena.

The dinner specials only last a week, from November 8th through
November 14th, and the $20 price tag does not include beverage, tax, or
gratuity.