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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Hi Tone Gets a Band Beer

Hi Tone is getting high toned.

The iconic Midtown nightspot will introduce its own beer at a launch party on July 25th.

“It’s the Hi Tone ‘Band Beer,’” says owner Brian “Skinny” McCabe. “It’s kind of a light American lager. It’s 4.5 ABV. And it’s crushable, crisp, and clean.”

The beer, which is made at Meddlesome Brewing Company, sports a picture of a guitar amp, the Hi Tone building, and its logo. The can is black. “All the bands we have play at our place are black T-shirt connoisseurs. Just like myself.”

Asked why he wanted his own beer, McCabe says, “I’ve been to a lot of other places that have beers and stuff geared towards their tradition and just different styles. Like Huey’s has their own beer. I was like, ‘Man, I really want our own beer that differentiates, kind of celebrates, what it is we do with the live action music scene.’ 

Caprese pizza and Band Beer (Photo: Michael Donahue)

“We have bands every single night of the week. And I wanted to get a beer going that was easily approachable. It just looks cool to have a beer specifically for the bands. That we can offer at a discount.”

He wanted the beer to be “laid-back,” McCabe says. “We want it to be approachable and still have some alcohol in it. We don’t want something that’s going to bog you down. You’ve got to play a show. Drink a couple of beers when you get off the road.”

Customers also can buy the beer, but the price will be marked up, McCabe says.

The first three cases — 72 beers — will be free at the launch party, which will be from 7 to 10 p.m. No cover charge.

McCabe came up with the idea for the Hi Tone beer five years ago. He revisited it when he was looking through some notes he made on his phone.

Meddlesome was the perfect place to brew the beer. People who work at the brewery visit and even play shows at the Hi Tone, McCabe says. Also, Meddlesome is “very music-driven and just full of music heads,” he says. The brewery hosts its own music events, including the annual Heavy Meddle Fest, which features metal bands.

He asked Chris Hamlett, a Meddlesome brewer who plays Hi Tone solo gigs as well as with Mike Hewlett & the Racket band, who he needed to talk to about making a beer.

McCabe is pleased with the result. “From what I tasted and the beer packaging, I think we’re going to sell a lot of it.”

He doesn’t want to stop at one type of beer. “I’d love to incorporate some other styles in there as well.”

The beer has to match the type of music played at Hi Tone. “As long as it aligns with what we’re doing, I think there’s unlimited possibilities,” says McCabe, who is already thinking about an “indie rock IPA.”

With beer, you want pizza. Right? Hi Tone makes cheese, pepperoni, sausage, and caprese pizzas. The caprese includes dried basil, mozzarella cheese, and sliced tomatoes. You can order one to share or get a personal pizza all for yourself.

The nightspot also offers “Take & Bake” pizzas for takeout. “We make them in house and we wrap them in plastic wrap and freeze them. And give you instructions on the box and a special sauce we put on them. And you’re out the door.”

Their New York-style pizzas have a “cracker crust,” McCabe says. “I love a super-duper thin crust.”

They use a rich mozzarella cheese on their pizzas. “The kicker is, we use this garlic butter sauce. We drizzle it in a spiral all the way around it.”

McCabe is already making plans for Hi Tone’s 25th anniversary celebration, which will be held October 4th, 5th, and 6th. “Given a move or two and the occasional pandemic, there’s no better time than now to celebrate 25 years of the Hi Tone.”

The festival will include performances by Lucero, Dead Soldiers, Star & Micey, Pezz, Subteens, HEELS, new heavy metal bands, and a “super secret announcement.”

Hi Tone began at 1911 Poplar Avenue. McCabe took over in 2014 after Hi Tone moved to 412-414 Cleveland Street. In 2020, it moved to its current address at 282-284 Cleveland Street.

It was called “Hi-Tone Cafe,” McCabe says. “I just call it Hi Tone. No dash.”

But, he says, “It’s ‘Hi Tone Cafe’ or ‘Hi Tone.’ Just don’t call it ‘High Tone.’ I hate that.” 

Categories
Cover Feature Food & Drink News

Fall Back, Drink Forward

Temperatures roller-coaster dipped into the cool stuff last weekend promising no more 80-degree days until Memphis in May and the exact right conditions to bend an arm under a dark, toasty/roasty fall beer.

For this, Memphians, you are in luck. New beers keep pouring into new Memphis-area taprooms. When Cooper House Project opens in Cooper-Young (hopefully soon!), Memphis will be home to 12 craft breweries. It’ll join Ghost River, Beale Street, Boscos, Crosstown, Grind City, Soul & Spirits, Hampline, High Cotton, Wiseacre, Memphis Made, and Meddlesome. Consider that only two craft breweries — Ghost River and Boscos — operated here nine years ago.

New beers are pouring into Memphis-area stores, too. Craft breweries from other markets are expanding their distribution circles, and new stuff is showing up on our shelves. Think of all the Nashville beers we can get here like Bearded Iris and Southern Grist, Urban South from New Orleans, and Deschutes from Bend, Oregon. This now also includes several non-alcoholic beers from brewers who want craft flavors without the hangover.

Toby Sells (left) with Soul & Spirits owner and master brewer Ryan Allen.

For this year’s fall beer guide, we rounded up a bunch of beers you can find around Memphis. This includes some from other markets and does not include every local brewery. Some breweries just didn’t have anything new that we’ve not written about already. We found our beers at Cash Saver and South Point Grocery (thank you, Taylor James!), both known for their wide selections. But you can find most of the beers in our tasting most anywhere.

Some brewers haven’t liked all of our staff comments in past beer guides. But our crew was asked to be honest. We taste and take notes, not as beer experts, but as typical Memphis craft beer consumers. (I mean, we don’t even have Untappd accounts.)

But we did have expert help. As in years past, we had a guide to help us understand the different styles and pick out flavors. This year, Ryan Allen, co-owner and master brewer at Soul & Spirits, shined a light on our path forward. He joined us in an undisclosed Midtown backyard as a few Flyer staffers drank beers from a cooler and wrote about them for work. Hell yeah.

There are plenty of beers to love on this list — and we did love some. But don’t take our word for it. Go grab a light jacket and a dark beer for yourself. — Toby Sells

Athletic

Athletic Lite, light lager, 0 percent ABV

Ever leave a sixer in a hot car, discover it later, then put it back in the fridge? This reminds me of that — like a flat, forgotten Miller Lite. Not much flavor, but an easy drinker if you like playing pretend. — Shara Clark

It’s a light beer with no alcohol. Which I guess is like chewing on a candy cigarette in a cigar club. But to be fair, some people really like candy cigarettes. — Samuel X. Cicci

A non-alcoholic beverage that seems sort of pointless. Slightly fizzy, like LaCroix water. Yellowish color, like water that’s been, er, used. I’d prefer a LaCroix. — Bruce VanWyngarden

There’s nothing there and I guess that’s the point. It’s barely-beer-flavored fizzy water. — Toby Sells

The recent technological advances that have made decent-tasting NA beer possible are welcome. There’s a lot of good brews out there that won’t mess with your sobriety. Unfortunately, this is not one of them. Why make an NA beer taste like the lite beer designed to make 4.2 percent alcohol content more palatable? This beer makes me long for the bold flavors of tap water. — Chris McCoy

This non-alcoholic beverage is like drinking Holy Water from church, except the wrong fingers have been dipped in the font — fingers that have been in places God doesn’t approve of — so there’s a tinge of something that shouldn’t be there, making you question if this thing that’s supposed to be “good” for you is actually worth the way it goes down so smoothly. — Abigail Morici

Meddlesome

Memphis Style Lager, light lager, 4.5 percent ABV

The can art reminds me of a ’90s-style Mead folder, but the beverage itself gives strong shower beer vibes. Lather up the shampoo, crack one open, and throw it back while the water washes the day away. This one’s a winner. — SC

It’s a nice, lighter malty lager. If you like lagers, go for it. But you’re gonna buy it anyway since the can is so fun with its minty-party-shenanigan-chic aesthetic. — SXC

This 4.5-percenter is right down the middle of my comfort zone. Tastes like beer, friendly and non-aggressive. I could see myself sitting down with a few of these. — BV

It tastes great. Now with that out of the way, let’s talk about the can. To holler at the ’80s Memphis design group on a beer can will delight any who appreciate obscure Memphiana. If you think it looks like Saved by the Bell, well, that’s fun, too. — TS

This beer is what you think you want when you order a domestic light beer. Because of Memphis’ great water, and being fresher than your average corporate beer product, it’s got a sharper and better flavor. — CM

The Memphis Style has the vibe of a crouton. We like croutons. But do we love croutons — that’s the question. — AM

Southern Grist

Parallel Fruited Sour, sour, 0 percent ABV

This is another NA, which is good because you’ve got to be sober to say its name three times fast. Flavor- and texture-wise, this seems like nothing more than a fruit puree — or what you get in one of those bottles of daiquiri mixer. — SC

It’s bursting with passion fruit and raspberry, but not super sour, which I want in my beers. Also, it has no alcohol. Which I guess is like choosing to inhale a fruity candle in a hookah bar. — SXC

Another non-alcoholic brew that is in no way reminiscent of, well, beer. It’s pleasant tasting, but to me, this is a soda. — BV

This is one of the best NA beers I’ve ever tasted. It’s got the mouthfeel of a regular beer, and the flavors are tasty but not overwhelming. Most importantly, it’s not too sweet. — CM

The best snack when you’re in kindergarten is that cherry chapstick that you sneak a little nibble of, and this drink will take you back to those naughty moments — as if the chapstick-eating folk at Southern Grist melted down the worst chapstick, plastic tube and all, to find a new evil way to capitalize on nostalgia. — AM

Doc’s Cider

Sour Cherry Cider, sour, 6 percent ABV

This tastes like an Alabama Slammer Clubtails (those cheap, gas-station, 10-percent malt beverages) or a Black Cherry Four Loko. And if you’ve got more than two bucks to spend on booze, this is not a good thing. — SC

This sour-cherry concoction tested my gag reflex. Never bring this near my face again. — BV

This is the opposite of thin. It covers your tongue and palate with a sort of cherry medicine film. Do not recommend. — TS

UhhhlllllAAAAHHHHCHHA [yucky sound]! — CM

It’s like drinking the weirdly pink liquid that drips from a teeny tiny hole in a Febreze-scented garbage bag filled with rotting fruit and used Kleenex as you drag it to your garbage bins. — AM

Urban South

Red Nose ReinBeer, fruited wheat, 5.4 percent ABV

The first sip gave me a little “Oh!” — light with a warm, spiced aftertaste. Subsequent sips sorta felt like peeling back the wrapping paper on a Christmas gift then settling into disappointment once you realize it’s just a pair of socks. — SC

Grandma got run over by a reinbeer while walkin’ home from our house on Christmas Eve. The suspect was a fruity wheat, with notes of cranberry, cinnamon, and brown sugar, but witnesses reported that the spices overwhelm any fruity taste. — SXC

I didn’t want to like this. But it’s Christmas in a can, really. Light on the cranberry flavor, heavy on the cinnamon and brown sugar. The taste turns flatter the more you drink, though. — TS

Urban Artifact

Xmas Pickle, sour, 4.3 percent ABV

What’s the dill with all these odd new beer types, eh? It’s a smooth, light, pickle-based gose. Little bit of salt, a nice clean pickle scent, a bit of tartness, but overall it doesn’t go too heavy on any of the strange flavor mixes. — SXC

It’s much like I’d imagine drinking the brine from a pickle jar would be, only with bubbles. It’s got some salt, as well. Might go well with a cheeseburger or something, but I would not drink this sans food. — BV

Ryan [Allen from Soul & Spirits] said pickle beers are on the rise. I ain’t tryna drink this all afternoon, but it’s crazy different and fun to explore. I bet it’s great with fried chicken. — TS

I wasn’t aware of the pickle beer trend before this tasting, and I’m not sure I’m on board with it. This one smells like a pickle more than tastes like one, and it’s by far the saltiest beer I’ve ever had. Bottom line: It’s not as bad as it sounds. — CM

Soul & Spirits

Polk Salad, fresh-hopped IPA, 6.1 percent ABV

The vibe: You’re sitting in a field, breeze blowing against your face, sipping a cold, carbonated herbal tea. Fresh hops here really gave this a crisp, clean drinking experience. Best IPA I’ve ever tried. — SC

This is a better IPA, made from fresh hops (grown in Memphis!) and packed with fresh greens. Not bad. And that’s coming from an IPA-hater. — SXC

This is the freshest beer I’ve ever had. Maybe I would not have described it that way if Ryan hadn’t told us about the fresh-hop process, but dang if I can’t taste it. My notes say “just so fucking good.” — TS

It starts with a great nose. The initial taste is light and crisp, with a bold finish. The fresh hops linger longer and add more complexity than you get with your average West Coast face-melter. This is one of the best IPAs I’ve ever tasted. — CM

Ghost River

Dunkelweizen Ale, Dunkelweizen, 8 percent ABV

It’s got a bit of a clovy taste. A lot of Ghost Rivers have a sameness to their taste, but this one breaks the mold. Kudos to the brewer. — SXC

This has a dark, caramel-ish initial taste. The texture is soft, almost melted buttery. A hint of dough. Not for every taste, but will hit the spot for many. — BV

Ryan de-mystified Dunkels for me, saying they’re basically Hefeweizens with darker malts (and that “Dunkelweizen” literally translates to “dark wheat”). This one has those banana flavors and lots of suds. Fun to drink, and extra points for crop circles on the can! — TS

This new “dark wheat” is one of the better offerings from the venerable Ghost River label. It goes down smooth, but be warned: It’s got an exceptionally high alcohol content. You can get yourself into trouble with this one. — CM

Have you ever licked the cracked side of a plastic Mardi Gras bead that’s lost its shine and sits in a puddle of spilled beer? Well, now, you don’t have to; this drink will do the trick instead. — AM

Wiseacre

Strizzle Bier, IPA, 6.2 percent ABV

Yipes. Bye-bye, taste buds. I think they were burned off by the bitterness. — SC

Wiseacre makes so many good beers that I don’t feel bad saying I don’t like this. It’s a weird fusion of IPA and brown ale, and I’m not sure those two styles ever truly reconcile. — SXC

Solid brew with a clean slight bitterness that isn’t off-putting. This one suits the season just right. — BV

IPA bros like myself (self-burn), rejoice! Your fall beer is here. It’s bitter, even a little fruity, and definitely all IPA. — TS

Not much nose, followed by a weird, muddled taste profile. It’s bitterness without context. Strizzle is a rare miss from Wiseacre. — CM

This tastes the way sliding a finger along a freshly Pledged table feels but without the pleasant lemon scent. — AM

High Cotton

Chocolate Rye Porter, porter, 5.5 percent ABV

This is just begging to be made into a beer float. Is that even a thing? Well, it is now. Gimme a mug and a scoop of vanilla, please. — SC

As a kid I used to go to my grandmother’s and attack the bowl of 85-percent Ghirardelli chocolate squares. This beer reminds me of those, a bitter and oh-so-slightly-sweet meld of chocolate flavor swirling softly amidst the dark porter. Truly heavenly, and the perfect fall/winter beer. — SXC

It smells just like coffee as I bring it up for a sip. It tastes like the holidays. If ReinBeer above is the fun, gaudy Christmas party with lil smokies and Dirty Santa, this beer is the classier sit-down, roast beef dinner with your well-to-do cousins. — TS

This is the kind of beer I’m in the mood for when the leaves are falling. It’s well-balanced, not too sweet, with a complex set of flavors. This is one of my favorite beers from a Memphis brewery. — CM

Tailgate

Peanut Butter Milk Stout, sweet/milk stout, 5.8 percent ABV

Yum! Nutter Butters in a cup. This would make a great boozy milkshake. — SC

My notes, verbatim: “Fuck it. I love the shit out of this beer.” I couldn’t help it, even though I don’t usually like these beers and wanted not to like this one. I can’t explain the magic that converted me, but it was there. — TS

It’s got a great nose, it pours like motor oil, and the flavor is deep and satisfying — somewhere between a Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup and a pecan pie. Those brewers up there in Nashville are making great beer. — CM

Hi-Wire

Chocolate Coconut Bar 10W-40 Imperial Stout, stout, 8 percent ABV

It’s a silky, creamy chocolate imperial stout with a bit of lingering coconut. I expected more of a Mounds bar-esque taste. Not quite as good as the chocolate rye porter, but solid if you’re a stout fan. — SXC

Whoa. Whoa. Whoa. The coconut goes way over the top here and turns the candy bar flavor into suntan lotion. — TS

As a fan of stouts, chocolate cake, and coconuts, this sounds like it should be right up my alley. But it’s just chewy and thick and not much else. I’m not sure I even tasted the coconut. Meh. — CM

Soul & Spirits

Smoke Stack, smoked dark lager, 5.7 percent ABV

Ever played musical chairs around a campfire to avoid the smoke blowing in your eyes? But every time you move, it follows, permeating your hair and clothes and your entire respiratory system? That usually sucks, but while this tastes like inhaling a smoke cloud, it’s a bold beer, and I’m here for it. — SC

The smoke hits you right up front, like when the wind from a fire pit wafts your way. It’s meant to emulate Memphis barbecue, and like Memphis barbecue, it’s a slow burn. Not a beer to crush, but could go well with a rack of ribs. — BV

Ever had a beer that’s smoky like a good scotch? Made with Tennessee barley roasted over mixed hardwoods intended to evoke the flavors of Memphis barbecue, this one was a new experience for me. Not sure I could have more than one at a sitting, but this is an excellent beer. — CM

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

She Devil! How to Drink Your Way Through the Family Zoom

Ah, you mighty Nimrod you! You made an ass out of yourself on the family holiday Zoom call, didn’t you? I get it, the digital age is no excuse for being any less annoying to your relatives than when you’re in the flesh. Or perhaps you are brave enough to ford the in-person get-together — if so, arm yourself with Meddlesome Brewing’s spanking yet dangerous She Devil Belgian Golden Strong. You picked it because the name reminds you of your Aunt Pidge, and as it is a hefty 8 percent ABV, it’s medicinal. It doesn’t taste too “big” and is very good. A little too refreshing, because suddenly you might go off on an unholy mission to turn the ordeal into a sort of Festivus “airing of grievances.”

I hope that you pour your She Devil into a glass: It tastes better than way, and with a name that clever, there is no way you wouldn’t use it on Aunt Pidge when you let fly. The possible overstep is understandable; these people have been mercifully free of your company for the better part of a year, so you have a lot of aggravation to dispense. Besides, Zoom holidays are a new medium: Any actor worth their salt will tell you that acting for stage and the camera are two entirely different art forms. So what if you play the part a little large? It happens.

Meddlesome Brewing Company

Meddlesome’s She Devil

Assuming that you don’t actually hate your family and they in turn still harbor some affection for you, despite that unique stamp you put on things, you might find that an apology is in order later. If this becomes the case, let me suggest a beer that just gives you some holiday feelz (note the z) that you might actually rememberz later. Lazy Magnolia Southern Pecan Brown Ale comes in at a more neighborly 4.5 percent ABV, which will help you manage your Ps & Qs just enough to calm your nerves, while explaining your appalling behavior to your horrified grandmother or impressionable nieces and nephews.

As far as I know, it’s the only beer that uses whole roasted pecans in the brewing process — so it’s a unique brew, literally. Located down in Kiln, Mississippi, it takes locally sourced to a new level and gives the beer a nutty and deep flavor. And, just like that cousin home from college who wants everyone to know that he’s far too cool for family but won’t log off, it is lightly hopped, so a lot of that caramel comes through. It also sets the sort of holiday tone in a situation where a pecan pie isn’t forthcoming. Not after what you said about it.

While it is very interesting, Southern Pecan isn’t likely to ever be one of my go-tos. That sweetness does lend it to pairing well with savory foods, though. A friend of mine told me it goes well with Thai food. So maybe if Aunt Pidge’s dried-out turkey isn’t on the table, call up Bhan Thai and give it a whirl.

These two beers are polar opposites, but either is a tasty choice. The difference between the two goes beyond the flavor to a matter of utility: Ones tastes like pecan pie served at gatherings of people who haven’t raised self-medication to a performance art. She Devil, on the other hand, is a spanking beer for a holiday to remember (except by you). If nothing else, it’s an example of honest marketing.

My advice for next year is to pump the brakes. Get just zippy enough to annoy, but not enough to get disowned. The vaccine is here, my friend, so next December you may have to sit next to these people armed only with the good silver.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Goldeneye: Nuance is Dead and Pusser’s Rum

A couple of years ago I wrote a novel that, in production, attracted the nominal interest of a movie producer. Later came the chatty email informing me that said producer had been righteously flattened by the #MeToo juggernaut, rather taking the wind out of the project’s sails. Later this month, that novel, Haint Punch, is being released. Which is swell. The publishers now want a short story, as a sort of sidecar to the novel.

Obviously, I need to hightail it to my super-secret compound on a barrier island and bat out some tale of intrigue and derring-do. It’s not that secret, honestly; it’s a rental. And there is no law saying that you can’t rent an homage to that most booze-soaked of fair-weather writers, Ian Fleming, and his tropical retreat, Goldeneye.

Richard Murff

Nuance is Dead and Pusser’s Rum

But what to quaff? These sandy climes always make me think of old sailing ships, so I opted to try some super-hoppy ale — like the Navy used to dole out. These ales were fairly high in alcohol because, in those days, battleships were just barely seaworthy, multi-berth coffins. The nice fellow at the Cash Saver pointed me to Meddlesome’s Nuance is Dead New England Style IPA. With a name like that, I wasn’t expecting a subtle brew, but if anyone was going to over-hop an IPA, why not Meddlesome?

Pouring it out into my rinsed glass, it was cloudy. Not peering through briny sea water cloudy, but like looking through … bread. The brewery’s motto is “Never Settle,” and this one didn’t. Not that that put me off. The slogan for the old Murffbrau was, “It’s not real beer, unless you can chew it.” So I dove in and …

These are the people behind 201 Hoplar, one of Memphis’ great craft brews. For all I know, this might be the cosmic ideal of a New England IPA. Nuance is Dead wasn’t bad, it was just too much. I had been warned, “This stuff is so hoppy it’s hard to get in the growler.”

The aftertaste is a little “clingy.” The weird thing is that the longer I thought about it, the more I wanted to try it again. I also wanted to shave my tongue. Make of that what you will.

I’m headed down to my poor man’s Goldeneye to bat out a masterpiece, so I need to concentrate. To cut the taste, I experimented with something called Pusser’s Rum — Original Admiralty Strength: Gunpowder Proof. I try not to get too excited about packaging, but this struck the right vibe. Fleming was a Navy man. The gal at Buster’s described it as the kick of moonshine and smooth of rum. I hate moonshine, so I said, “I don’t think so.”

Without missing a beat, she said, “Well, we sell it in a larger bottle, so if you’re unsure, this one is clearly the one you should be buying.” Fortune 500 companies pay top dollar to teach sales people how to just hurtle over objections like that. Well done.

I can assure you that Pusser’s Rum cut the taste of that loaf of beer I drank earlier. She wasn’t kidding about the moonshine kick or a good rum taste either. It’s a wallop of a dram; Mrs M. could smell it on the far end of the sofa. Drinking it neat really is like gunpowder, and over ice the whole thing opens up. Still a bit hot, but velvety too. An intriguing combination.

I have no one to blame, the warnings were right there on the label. Like the Nuance is Dead, the Gunpowder Proof rum was good — certainly worth a try — but just a little too much for me. Neither was the sort of thing that a very nearly award-winning writer quaffs before typing “It was a dark and stormy night.” Both just might work wonders, however, after typing “The End.”

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Coronavirus: Craft Breweries Close Taprooms, Offer To-Go Items

Justin Fox Burks

This damn virus is closing down all of our favorite spots. (It’s for a good reason. I know, I know.) Slide on over to our How to Eat Now section of Hungry Memphis for the latest restaurant closings and to-go information.

The virus is hitting the city’s craft breweries hard, too. Nearly all have closed their taprooms and are offering some kind of to-go options. Here’s a round-up of the latest info from their Facebook pages.

Coronavirus: Craft Breweries Close Taprooms, Offer To-Go Items (5)

Coronavirus: Craft Breweries Close Taprooms, Offer To-Go Items (3)

Coronavirus: Craft Breweries Close Taprooms, Offer To-Go Items

High Cotton Brewing

Coronavirus: Craft Breweries Close Taprooms, Offer To-Go Items (2)

Coronavirus: Craft Breweries Close Taprooms, Offer To-Go Items (4)

Coronavirus: Craft Breweries Close Taprooms, Offer To-Go Items (6)

Categories
Cover Feature News

Meddlesome Wins Bracket Challenge. Plus, News on Brews from All Over Town

Meddlesome Brewing Company’s West Coast IPA — 201 Hoplar — is the best craft beer in Memphis, according to the 530 voters in the Memphis Flyer‘s 2020 Beer Bracket Challenge, sponsored by our fine friends at the Young Avenue Deli.

This marks the third year in a row that 201 Hoplar has won the top spot in our challenge — a stunning three-peat made even more stunning as Meddlesome’s winning streak began the very first year of its operation.

“It’s an amazing feeling knowing that all of our patrons, fans, friends, and family care so much about us and our brand,” says Ben Pugh, who owns and founded Meddlesome with home-brewing pal Richie EsQuivel.

Each year, Pugh and EsQuivel have said they cannot believe their win and never expected it. Each win has been “crazy,” Pugh has said, leaving them feeling “blown away.” EsQuivel said of 201’s first-year win, “What the hell?”

According to EsQuivel, 201 Hoplar is a “West Coast IPA, through and through.” But while some new IPAs can be soft and fruity, EsQuivel says 201 Hoplar is “aggressive and bitter” but also “pineapple-y with citrus fruits.”

This year, we returned to our original format. The four bracket divisions separated Memphis craft beers into four very basic categories — light, dark, IPA, and seasonal. We blind-seeded the breweries’ beer choices in an event last month at Young Avenue Deli. Voters took it from there, moving 24 beers toward the championship.

Cheers to these meddling kids! (l-r) Richie EsQuivel, Ben Pugh, brewer Amber Rogers, and volunteer Larry Stone (back) celebrate Meddlesome Brewing Company’s three-peat victory in Memphis Flyer’s Beer Bracket Challenge.

Along the way, four beers emerged as winners in each of their categories. Wiseacre’s Tiny Bomb took top honors in the light division. Wiseacre’s Gotta Get Up to Get Down won in the dark division. Meddlesome’s 201 Hoplar was (obviously) the best IPA. Meddlesome’s Dirty Dova emerged on top of the seasonal division.

Here are some questions left after our fourth year of the Beer Bracket Challenge: Is Memphis an IPA town? What is Meddlesome’s secret sauce? And it appears new competitors will be lining up for next year’s challenge. So, can Meddlesome and 201 Hoplar do it again?

Meddlesome Brewing Company’s award-winning West Coast IPA 201 Hoplar is flowing into shiny, new cans — and hitting shelves this month.

Beer News You Can Use

The Memphis craft beer scene will look different this time next year. New breweries are on the way. New locations of existing breweries will come online. New beers will line local shelves. And familiar beers will line shelves farther from Memphis.

One brewery has new owners implementing a raft of changes. And, certainly, new beers will flow from all of the local brewers in the next 12 months.

In short, it’s a great time for Memphis craft beer and craft beer fans. And it’s about to get better.

There will be growth, for sure. But it won’t be like the rapid ramp-up of 2013 when three new breweries — Wiseacre, Memphis Made, and High Cotton — all opened within six months of each other.

But here’s a big win: Every craft brewery that has opened here since 2007 is still open. Maybe that sounds small, but it’s huge. Craft breweries in other cities open and close, sometimes with the regularity of local restaurants. That hasn’t happened here, and it speaks volumes about Memphis’ craft scene.

As craft beer’s profile has deepened, Memphians understand craft better than ever before. Our breweries continue to up production volume, settling their beers into more and more places and into the mouths of more and more consumers. And they ain’t slowing down.

The next 12 months will bring changes — big and small but all good — for the city’s craft scene. I’ll raise a pint to that. You should, too.

Ghost River

Bob Keskey and a group of partners bought Ghost River Brewing just more than a month ago. One of their first moves? They’re bringing back the tree.

Ghost River’s original, iconic logo — that spooky-looking bald cypress tree — will return soon to the spotlight of the iconic brand’s aesthetic. The tree was replaced with a lantern (another apt nod to the brand’s “wandering” spirit and to the Ghost River itself) in a brand redesign a few years ago.

Keskey says he started the pursuit to buy Ghost River about two years ago. It was an “on-again-off-again” situation for awhile with the Feinstone family (the previous owners). It was a “long dance,” he says, but the deal closed in January.

Keskey lives in Memphis but is a native of Milwaukee, Wisconsin, where “beer is a staple of our diet.” He originally fell for Ghost River Golden, a “nice, easy, drinkable beer.” Then he was “hooked” on Grind House, tried the rest of the beers, met head brewer Jimmy Randall, checked out the taproom, brought his investor group in to do the same, and began the pursuit to purchase the operation. He says Ghost River “just fit well with me.”

Changes at Ghost River will go well beyond the logo. The new group is investing capital (Keskey wouldn’t say how much) for a new canning line and a new keg line. He says they “completely redid the back production area” with new floors, new LED lighting, and new paint on the walls. “We’re giving the whole thing a facelift,” he says. Out front, work is underway for an expanded taproom to include a private area for indoor and outdoor events. All of it, Keskey says, will be complete by March 30th.

“Everything we’re doing comes either at the suggestion of the employees or customers or from [taproom manager] Victoria Keskey,” he says. “I’m not one of these owners that pushes his way through. So, this is about what the employees need, and I just made it happen.”

Memphis Filling Station

A simple question set Memphis Filling Station (MFS) on a new path, a journey that may conclude this year.

You may already know MFS, or think you do. The company began as a growler filling station, and they’ve poured other companies’ craft beers at dozens of events. But things changed when MFS co-founder Bryan Berretta was invited to bring some of his beers to an annual Brew Movement Against Muscular Sclerosis event.

“I was like, uh, no one drinks mine,” says Berretta. “I’m the only person who knows what it is. [The event organizer] said, ‘Well, bring it anyway.'”

So, Berretta and co-founder Heather Reed showed up with about 120 bottles and poured through almost all of them. At the end, Reed asked a path-changing question: “Why are we selling other people’s beer?”

That question led Berretta and Reed to negotiating on a space to allow them to sell MFS beer. The space would be shared with a food vendor in a sort of co-op situation. But Berretta isn’t providing more details than that.

As for beer, Berretta says he wants to do something different in the market. He says he’s into beers with “heavier, fruited, stronger flavors” and “crazy stuff” like a salted caramel pastry stout. “I want to be seen as the brewers’ brewery, where the other brewers feel comfortable coming in and doing collaborations with us, and it’s just fun and creativity and just forget the rest,” Berretta says.

Wiseacre

“We expect summer.” And that’s as close as Kellan Bartosch, owner and co-founder of Wiseacre Brewing Co., could predict for the opening of the company’s second location, a 43,500-square-foot, $7 million taproom and brewery now rising from the earth Downtown on B.B. King Boulevard between Butler and Vance. The taproom will make up only 5,000 square feet of the space. The magic for Bartosch and his brother and co-founder Davin Bartosch is in the rest of the space — the brewhouse, warehouse, lab, cellar, and grain mill.

“The biggest thing that [the new location] does for us is just allow us to fulfill our potential as a business,” says Kellan Bartosch.

Production capacity at the original Broad Avenue location was frustrating and tough, he says. The new location will allow growth. While many have asked, Bartosch says the opportunity for a regional brewery to go national (like Bell’s or Founders) just doesn’t really exist anymore, especially with the amount of breweries in the country now.

But for Davin Bartosch, Wiseacre’s head brewer, it’s more than that.

“The new location has more to do with us being able to make the best beer we can,” he says. “My goal, ever since we opened, was to make the best beer in the world. Having nicer equipment allows us to get much better at making beer.”

A new canning line will help eliminate more oxygen in the cans, which extends shelf life and creates consistency.   

For now, look for Wiseacre’s Regular Pale Ale year round, a fresh series of “new-age-y” IPAs, and new packaging, including 16-ounce cans, more 12-packs, and even 24-packs.

Crosstown

It was a hell of a party, especially for a 2-year-old.

The planning was intense, tons of new beer was made and poured, tons of friends came, and at its height, the party was a raucous, full-tilt boogie. It’s not every day a brewery turns 2. Even though Crosstown Brewing Company sold more beer on its second birthday than it did on its opening night, co-founder Clark Ortkiese won’t ever forget that first night.

“Of course, we’re better at serving than before, and our point of sale [system] didn’t crash, and the draft system wasn’t completely screwed up like it was on the first day,” Ortkiese remembers.

Two years on, it’s creativity that keeps Ortkiese feeling like work ain’t work.

“That’s how I get to cut loose creatively and how [head brewer] Stephen Tate gets to cut loose,” Ortkiese says. “We just figure out how we’re going to do this … and work toward it.”

Look for that creativity in new, seasonal cans including Delta Cat, a low-alcohol, Euro-born grisette (dropping this week), and a New England IPA called Chowda, out later in March.

Ortkiese says taking risks on esoteric styles comes easier as the Memphis craft beer market matures. For proof, he points to two “successful” sour-beer can releases over the last two summers.

“So, yeah, I trust the market enough to say let’s go do some weird stuff and some old-school stuff,” Ortkiese says.

Meddlesome

Meddlesome Brewing Company is readying to answer the question its fans have been asking since they opened: When can they find Meddlesome beers in stores?

“Every day we get phone calls and Facebook messages: Where can I buy your beer?” says Meddlesome owner and co-founder Ben Pugh. “Well, I can give you a list of places, but if you’re not going to bars or restaurants you’re probably not going to find it.”

Pugh says Meddlesome is a self-funded operation, and canning (either contract or in-house) was put on hold until they could afford it. Now that time has come. The award-winning 201 Hoplar is now flowing into silver cans, 12 ounces at a time. Pugh says to look for Meddlesome on shelves this month.

The brewery hit the ground running after they opened about two years ago, winning the hearts (and tastebuds) of Cordova craft fans and enough votes to win our Beer Bracket Challenge for three years in a row. They’ve been competing for taps all over town and will now compete for shelf space.

At the same time, they haven’t stopped meddling (you knew it was coming) creatively. Meddlesome did a special bottle release each Saturday in November, including Hot Mess, an imperial red ale made with Red Hots; All the Cookies, an imperial oatmeal raisin cookie brown ale; and Devil’s Water, a Belgian quad.

Memphis Made

You (probably) haven’t had a beer in the Ravine yet. But you (probably) will have come this time next year. The Ravine is a $5 million public greenspace concept now underway by Development Services Group and the Downtown Memphis Commission.

Before long, you’ll be Instagramming the hours away and drinking craft beer in a ravine on an old rail spur behind nondescript buildings between Union and Monroe (close to the old Commercial Appeal building).

“We kind of specialize in unique spaces here at Memphis Made,” says company co-founder Andy Ashby. “Our taproom is definitely different than a lot of others. So the unconventional design [in the Ravine] didn’t faze us in the least. We actually think there are opportunities there.”

New production space there will allow Memphis Made Brewing Co. to up its volume. It’s good timing, as the company readies to enter new markets after a recently signed distribution deal with Ajax. But the location came first and the distribution deal came second, says company co-founder Drew Barton.

“Finding that second location and knowing that we could push production was not a necessity to go find a distributor, but it definitely made the choice a little easier,” Barton says. “Had we not gone and found the second location or knew that we wanted to expand that way, we would have been totally happy just brewing on Cooper. But we knew that we could move beyond the volume we were doing to get to that next level.”

Timelines on projects like these can get squishy, but Barton says to look for the Ravine location to open “this year.”

Memphis Made also recently signed a separate distribution deal with Clark distributors in Mississippi. So, very soon you’ll be able to find Junt, Cat Nap, and more in stores outside of Shelby County for the first time.

Grind City

Back then, the area didn’t have a fancy name, really. There was a hill with a ragged collection of decrepit buildings. But there was that view. When Hopper Seely climbed the hill and saw the view, he knew.

“Once I saw that view, I was like, I don’t care how bad this place is to open …” Seely says, trailing off amid the construction noise. “Some days I wish I really didn’t ever say that. Once we got construction started — and if I’m ever having a bad day — I just look at that view and know it’s going to be worth it.”

Seely’s Grind City Brewing Co. sits behind the carriage and horse barns on North Second, above the east bank of Wolf River harbor. Signs in the area herald it as the “carriage district,” but it’s always kinda sorta been in the Uptown area and is now in what developers call the Snuff District.

All of it sits just north of Downtown, and now, atop that small hill, is a site under full construction, with one modern building that shines like an iPhone at a barn-raising. Walk out the back of Grind City Brewing’s massive taproom and onto its patio and you’ll see that view — the Pyramid, some of the city’s most iconic skyscrapers, and the big “M” of the Hernando de Soto Bridge.

Open in the “spring-ish” time, according to Seely, that patio and view should be very Instragram-friendly.

But Grind City is way more than a patio. Seely was 12 when he began brewing beer with his dad. He was 19 when he quit college and entered a brewing school in England. And in his early 20s, he won awards for his beers and business plans.

Seely and Grind City head brewer Mark Patrick are already cranking out beers. Out of the gate, Grind City will offer a light beer, an IPA, and a black (nitro!) lager. Later, they’ll begin offering up seasonals and one-offs. 

Soul & Spirits

“We are in very deep construction,” says Soul & Spirits Brewery co-founder and head brewer Ryan Allen.

Soul & Spirits is planned for an old building, also in the Uptown/Snuff District on Main Street. But Allen says it’s way too early to talk about a timeline to get the doors open, though the company’s Facebook page says “coming 2020.”

But Allen did talk beers: “We make a diverse range of beers for a diverse range of people,” he says. “We’re looking at both old-world styles and new-world styles and even being creative in our right, doing some of our own things that you may not have seen before.”

Allen earned his Masters Brewing Diploma in Germany. It’s much of that “old world” education that leads him to the mindset that brewers should really know how to brew “a great light lager beer.” Then, apply that knowledge to any kind of “new-world styles.”

High Cotton

You’ve definitely started to see more High Cotton out there. Thanks to a November distribution deal with Eagle, the Edge District brewery plays farther afield in the Memphis market (like the suburbs) in more grocery stores, convenience stores, and other spots.

Ryan Staggs, High Cotton Brewing Co. co-owner and co-founder, says for the first years of operation, “We were a man in a van. Now we’ve got dozens of delivery drivers and trucks that are out there every day, beating the street and putting more craft beer in more places than we can dream up.”

But those first years of self distributing were crucial, Staggs says, as the market was developing and they slowly ramped up production volume. 

Consumers are now well used to seeing three High Cotton beers in cans: Scottish Ale, IPA, and Mexican Lager. A fourth can — a seasonal — will be added later this year.

This spring, the brewery’s Thai Pale Ale will replace another saison as its seasonal beer. Staggs says the beer’s exposure in the Flyer Beer Bracket Challenge and the demand for the beer in the taproom helped High Cotton make the switch.

In the next couple of months, keep an eye out for a Flanders red ale. It’s been fermenting in wine barrels for two years, Staggs says, and so far, “It’s pretty phenomenal.”

Memphis Brewfest

If any of this has you craving a craft beer, you’re in luck. Memphis Brewfest is returning to Liberty Bowl Stadium. So far, 33 breweries and cideries are set to tap their stuff on the field on Saturday, March 28th, from 3 to 6:30 p.m. Tickets are $50-$100 at eventbrite.com.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Post-Kayak Brews at Meddlesome

It all started when Mrs. M was too polite to say, “Hey Chubs, get off the couch,” instead, opting for the more graceful suggestion that we should be one of those “active lifestyle” couples. I assumed that she meant fishing. It’s roughly considered a sport, but if you can bear never to be very good at it, you almost never have to put your beer down. As usual, I was wrong.

That’s how we wound up at Shelby Farms, paddling around in a kayak. It’s cheap, it gets you moving, and the steering — if not exactly intuitive — isn’t hard to master. It’s wet, hot, and humid. The ducks, cub scouts, and other wildlife aren’t too obtrusive. In all, it isn’t a bad way to spend an hour. But be warned: Those kayaks do not have cup holders.

Justin Fox Burks

Meddlesome Brewing Company’s flagship IPA 201 Hoplar

Now I know I’ve written before about how those really hoppy IPAs get bitter and weird if you stand around and let them get hot, which makes them tricky to drink at outdoor events on a blazing day or sticky night. But where there is a will, there is a way. In this case, the way is to go inside. That’s why John Gorrie patented the first “cold air machine.” Granted, he did it for yellow fever patients, but you know how it is when you work up a hankerin’ for the hops.

For the Downtown, Midtown, or even East Memphis set, dropping into the Meddlesome Brewing taproom in Cordova seems a little out of the way, but I recommend it. It’s right around the corner from the boat house at Shelby Farms, and nothing is more important after a mild workout than replacing three times the actual calories you just burned, especially if you happen to be soaking wet and your shoulders are starting to hurt and you were seriously menaced by a turtle earlier. Yes, the brewery is basically in an office park, but inside it’s all “craft brewery chic,” and the food trucks circle. Get in out of the heat, or in our case, the rain — hot rain — and hoist a pint.

It’s hard to imagine a better post-kayak pairing than with a good hoppy IPA like 201 Hoplar. There’s just something about the slight bitterness that makes the experience crisp and refreshing, especially if you don’t have yellow fever. (If, in fact, you do have yellow fever, I’d recommend skipping the tap room and heading over to the nearby Baptist East.)

Meddlesome’s Brass Bellows Ale proved very popular in the Flyer‘s and Aldo’s Beer Bracket Challenge back in March, and with good reason: The beers that do well in these mano-a-mano tourneys usually aren’t very exotic or complicated. This light and malty brew fits that bill perfectly.

Perhaps because, in the beginning, the craft beer scene was dominated by ales, not too many brewers made lagers. Thankfully, that has changed over the last few years. Which — if you are drinking your way down the Meddlesome menu — leads us to a fantastic summer beer: Jerry “The King” Lager, named after a local celeb who has never had a drop of alcohol in his life yet owns a bar on Beale Street. This is because Memphis is a complete and utter mystery, even to Memphians. I digress.

Jerry “The King” Lager is a pale lager that is a little hoppier than you might expect, but it has a lighter touch than the IPA. It goes down easy — maybe a little too easy — and has a clean finish. This is a good hot-weather go-to and, along with air conditioning and things named after pro-wrestlers, is available all over town.

With our shorts now air-dried, we headed to the Cove to eat a dozen oysters. Mrs. M drove. Don’t you sneer; I did all the heavy paddling.

Categories
Cover Feature News

Splashdance: Announcing the Winners of the Flyer’s Beer Bracket Challenge

Meddlesome Brewing Co.’s 201 Hoplar is (once again!) the best beer in Memphis, according to the 1,634 voters in the 2019 Memphis Flyer Beer Bracket Challenge, graciously sponsored by all of the great folks at Aldo’s Pizza Pies.

The Dirty ‘Dova dudes were just getting off the ground when they took home the coveted VanWyngarden Cup last year. They brought the cup back to us during our Match-Up Monday event at Aldo’s at the beginning of this year’s challenge. After a quick trip to C & J Trophy and Engraving, we gave the cup right back to Meddlesome last week during a Facebook Live event. By now, they’ve surely returned the cup to its spot in the Meddlesome taproom, where it will reside for another year.

Meddlesome brewer Ben Pugh

“We’re still blown away,” says Meddlesome co-founder and brewer, Ben Pugh. “It’s crazy. We didn’t expect it the first year. We definitely didn’t expect it in the second year. It’s been wild and humbling.” 

Says co-founder and brewer Richie EsQuivel: “Last year was, like, ‘what the hell?’ I was hoping we could get into the last four this year, but definitely did not think it’d be 201 [Hoplar] again.”

EsQuivel calls 201 a West Coast-style American IPA, “straight up and through and through.” He says new IPAs are “soft and fruity,” while 201 Hoplar meddles with that. (Don’t worry. You’ll see that pun again later on.)

Chris Hamlett and Skyler Windsor-Cummings of Meddlesome with Flyer writer Toby Sells.

“This beer is intended to be kind of aggressive and bitter,” says EsQuivel. “It’s super-pineappley with citrus fruits.” 

We changed up the Beer Bracket Challenge this year. We did away with the four categories — light beer, dark beer, IPAs, and seasonals — and let the breweries choose any four beers they wanted to compete, regardless of style. This made for some interesting matchups. Ghost River’s Grindhouse vs. Crosstown’s Margarita Gose, for example.

In the first round, 624 people cast 3,416 votes. Most of these voters were in Midtown, but there were a surprising number from New York and Massachusetts. Somebody voted in Spain. In round two, 571 voters cast 2,911 votes from as far away as Miami to Bellingham, Washington, a town just outside Vancouver. 

Meddlesome dominated our Final Four with Broad Hammer, 201 Hoplar, and Brass Bellows all taking slots. Memphis Made’s Fireside was the fourth member of the dance.

“Fireside is easy-drinking,” says Memphis Made co-founder Andy Ashby. “It’s super-laid-back, just like Memphis. It’s accessible and easy to fall in love with.”

But it was Meddlesome’s Broad Hammer brown ale and that aggressive 201 Hoplar IPA that went to the title fight. It was a close battle; 201 Hoplar won by only five votes.

Water. Malt. Yeast. Hops.

I’ve made beer for years now. Here’s my latest recipe. 

• Walk into Sweet Grass Next Door.

• Find Bailey (or Dougan, if you must).

• Say, “Bailey, may I have a” and then say the name of a beer they have.

This produces optimal results every time. I get that perfect blend of roast-i-ness, bread-i-ness, hop-i-ness, with a perfect mouth feel and a cold, clean finish. Every. Single. Time. 

Listen, I don’t know shit about beer. I can confidently say that after spending a week visiting the crazy-smart, hardworking brewers at Ghost River, Meddlesome, Memphis Made, High Cotton, Wiseacre, and Crosstown. Those folks know a LOT about beer. 

They can trace a beer style back in time and across a world map, like a genealogist with a family tree. They can trace the ingredients they use back to their literal roots. They can talk about beer and sound like a fanatical foodie and a chemical engineer in the same sentence.

On the Facebook Live stream for our Match-Up Monday event, I said some of the best beer in America is made right here in Memphis. I stand by that. I drink local beer wherever I go, and I always compare it to stuff back home, asking myself, “Is it as good as Traffic IPA, or Tiny Bomb, or Mexican Lager, or Fireside, or Brass Bellows, or Grindhouse?” And no matter what I think, I’m always glad to come home to my Memphis favorites. 

I decided to fix some of my beer ignorance. I talked with brewers about their processes and their ingredients. I broke it down to beer’s four basic elements — water, malt, yeast, and hops. I learned a lot and have a new appreciation for brewers and the beer they make. But I’m not quite smart enough to change up my recipe anytime soon. 

Water

The skies above Meddlesome Brewing are a dark battleship gray. Inside, a heavy quiet lays upon the bar. But through a door and around tall, silver tanks, a gleaming white light exposes a scene that could be a laboratory, a laboratory that smells of bread and plays Alice In Chains over a noisy din of equipment whirring.

It’s a brew day, and the brewhouse is busy. Guys in rubber boots climb steel ladders to open steaming lids on massive silver tanks and check the couplings on long black hoses that snake across the ground, round as a python and tough as a snow tire. After the work of the day and a few weeks to ferment, they’ll have Broad Hammer and McRoy’s Irish Stout. 

“Our [Memphis] water is a fantastic vehicle for our beers,” says EsQuivel. “Beers are 90 percent water. So, it’s obviously super important.” Meddlesome’s Pugh says it takes about eight gallons of that famous Memphis water to make one gallon of beer. But Meddlesome reclaims and reuses much of that water.

EsQuivel says they may adjust the pH of the water and add some salts or acids to it sometimes. But mostly they don’t “meddle” with it, he says in a self-aware, corny dad joke.

Soft rain beats against High Cotton’s taproom windows. The room’s big “BEER!” sign bathes upturned barstools in a soft, yellow glow.

Through two enormous doors, bright lights fall on brick walls above a concrete floor and massive copper-colored tanks. It’s a brew day, and the brewhouse is busy. Guys in rubber boots check gauges and climb steel ladders to open steaming lids on those massive, copper-colored tanks. They’re making a batch of High Cotton’s new Thai IPA and a batch of Scottish Ale. 

“As Memphis brewers, we really don’t have to do anything to the water to make good beer,” says High Cotton co-founder and brewer Ryan Staggs. “We also don’t have to install a super-expensive, water filtration system. Out west, water is super-expensive, but it’s also terrible. A lot of places in California will even have to use reverse osmosis just to get that blank slate that we get right out of the tap at a great price.” 

Water is also the most local ingredient source Memphis brewers can use in their beers. The rest of the main ingredients have to be shipped from specialty sources (for now, anyway). 

Malt

Crosstown Brewing’s massive, yellow logo pops off the side of its massive, gray building. Inside, huge silver tanks sit in neat rows under high ceilings. Those tire-tough and python-thick hoses snake along the floor.

The place is nearly deserted, until two brewers come along, each with a French Truck Coffee in one hand and a pastry in the other. Soon they are busy, making a double batch of Traffic IPA. 

I point to a large bag of something with the word “Canada” written across it. Clark Ortkiese, Crosstown Brewing co-founder and brewer, says it’s their base malt.

The very patient brewers of Memphis explained to me that malt is malted barley, the same grain as in a beef and barley soup. Ortkiese says maybe 90 percent of every beer made in the world is made with a base of malted barley. If you ever see a plant that looks like wheat on a brewery logo, it’s probably barley. 

Brewers will use malt and some other grains for different kinds of beer. The list of all grains used in a beer is referred to as the beer’s “grain bill.”  

Barley is grown and harvested and then sent over to a malter. There, the grain is soaked for a time, dried, and roasted. That roast time will determine much about the beer. Lightly roasted malt will give you lighter beers, a pale ale or a pilsner, maybe. A golden-roasted malt will give you a Scottish ale or an Oktoberfest. A dark roast, of course, will give you darker beers, like a Guinness.

Ortkiese explains that the big Canada bag contains “just plain malt. You can call it two-row or pale malt. It’s a base malt. It’s all that goes into Traffic.” 

Steve Winwood’s “Roll With It” blares over the darkened taproom at Memphis Made. A pallet jack, tools, and sacks of grain spread across the floor where typically sit neat rows of tables and benches. 

By the late afternoon, the brewers are working on their second batch of the day. Back in the lighted brewhouse, they gang around a silver tank, opened at the top and just bigger and taller than a pool table. It’s filled to the brim with what looks like oatmeal. It’s not, of course. It’s that famous Memphis water and that malted barley combined to make a sugary water. One day, that hot, sweet-smelling oatmeal-looking stuff (called a mash) will somehow become an ice-cold Fireside amber ale.

Memphis Made co-founder and brewer Drew Barton says a lot of his company’s grain comes from Germany, but they get some speciality stuff from the U.S., Canada, and England. Outside of water and know-how, you can’t really source a lot of beer ingredients locally, he said. 

“We don’t grow hops around here,” Barton says. “We don’t grow barley around here. There’s no yeast labs around here. At this point, it’s more of the skill set … of the brewer and the equipment you use that’s more important than if you got the ingredients right down the street. The source is important but not the locality of it.”

Yeast

Barton says much can be done along the brewing process to change the flavor components of beer. Yeast, he says, is one the biggest contributors to flavors “that people don’t realize.” And it’s not just the casual beer drinker who doesn’t get it. 

“The most important ingredient in brewing was the last one discovered, because yeast is a single-celled organism that is invisible to the naked eye,” according to All About Beer magazine. “Still, brewers have long known that some unseen agent turned a sweet liquid into beer. Long ago, the action of yeast was such a blessing, yet so mysterious, that English brewers [in the Dark Ages] called it ‘Godisgood.'”

Barton says yeast is vitally important to flavors. “We can have 500 gallons of wort [beer before yeast and fermentation] and split it up into five 100-gallon tanks with five different kinds of yeast in them,” Barton says, “Even though everything started out the same, you’d get five very different beers.” 

Ortkiese rattles off the name of the yeast used at Crosstown — US-05 California Ale yeast — quickly, from the top of his head. But then, his eyes light up as he courses through the history of that yeast strain from a now-defunct California brewery to its rediscovery and “rescue” by Ken Grossman, billionaire founder of Sierra Nevada. 

“I’m guessing here, but I’ll bet half the beers in the United States are fermented with that yeast; it’s just a workhorse,” Ortkiese says. “It’s very neutral. So, it lets all the hop flavors come forward.”

Yeast also gets you drunk. 

Those little fungi eat all that sugar we made with the water and malted barley, remember? It chews it up somehow and poops out — you guessed it — alcohol. Thanks, yeast. You really are the best. 

Hops

But for the gentle hum of some equipment and a hiss of running water somewhere, things are quiet at Wiseacre, relative to the size of its big brewhouse. The brewers are busy, but they’re spread out, working somewhere amid silver tanks that seem two stories tall. Somewhere in here, I think to myself, is an Ananda that I will drink sometime in the future. Weird.

Inside a walk-in cooler, brewer Sam Tomaszczuk pours bright green pellets from a futuristic, metallic-silver pouch. While you might not recognize them in their pelletized form, you’ve seen hops before. Have another look at a brewery logo. You might find a small, green plant the same shape as strawberry. Heck, a hop plant is the central feature of Meddlesome’s logo. 

Hops are little green flowers, cousins to marijuana. Brewers primarily use hops to bitter beer, to balance out that sweetness from that sugary barley water.

“There are a lot of beers that are quite hoppy out there that aren’t bitter at all,” Tomaszczuk says. “We have people who say they don’t like a hoppy beer and then we have them try something like Adjective Animal. It’s 8.6 percent alcohol … so it has a lot of sugars to it. It’s actually kind of sweet, compared to some of our other beers. So, when people try that, they tend to like it, even thought that’s a ‘hoppy beer.'”

Tomaszczuk pours those green, pelletized hops into a the steaming hole of a massive silver tank. In a few weeks, it’ll be a Hefeweizen, a light wheat beer, just in time for spring. 

Chunky, heavy-metal guitar riffs blend somehow over the hiss, clatter, and conversation spilling out of the open bay door of Ghost River. It’s a canning day, and the brewers are canners for the day. 

A pallet of naked, empty, silver cans glide from their stacks in satisfying single file through a machine that would make Willy Wonka smile. The cans are filled four at a time, sealed with a lid, twirled with a label, and six-packed by hand. It’s the very first time Ghost River has canned its new Grind-N-Shine, a light cream ale with coffee and vanilla. The beer is cold, and the freshly filled cans sweat in the tropical brewhouse environs. 

Back in the quiet of the taproom, Ghost River head brewer Jimmy Randall explains that it was “time to move forward.” Ghost River replaced its 1887 IPA with Zippin Pippin, and hops were a big reason why.

“We really wanted something … that would reflect those flavors that you get in IPAs and the hop profile was a big one,” Randall says. “We wanted to give it those big, up-front hops, the aroma, the flavor of them. So, we changed the way we hopped the beer completely.”

Add hops to the end of the boil, Randall explains, the more aroma you’ll get. Boil them longer, you’ll get a more bitter beer. Add hops at the end, you’ll get different flavors. And the types of hops you use will change everything. 

“So, take your Centennial hops, for example, which are kind of your classic, American IPA hops,” Randall says. “Bells Two Hearted IPA? That is 100 percent Centennial hops.”

Mosaic hops will give you juicy, tropical-fruit flavors, he says. Citra will give you citrus flavors.  

Get Crafty

There are about 100 craft breweries in Tennessee. About two dozen of those are in Nashville. Knoxville has 15 along its “Ale Trail.” 

The craft beer scene is still fairly new in Memphis. Boscos was Tennessee’s first brewpub, opening in 1992. Ghost River opened here in 2007. We’re now about five years from the Great Craft Awakening of 2013, the year that saw High Cotton, Wiseacre, and Memphis Made open. Since then, the city has added Meddlesome and Crosstown, each of which has been open for just more than a year. 

The Memphis scene isn’t small. It’s right-sized, and more is on the way. We’ll hopefully see Grind City Brewing in next year’s Beer Bracket Challenge. They’re planning to open in July. Plans to open Soul & Spirits Brewing in Uptown were revealed last week. There are more breweries coming, I’m told, but nothing we can report just yet. 

Until then, support your local craft brewers. Go drink a beer. And feel free to use my recipe.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Flyer “Beer Bracket Challenge” Down to Final Four

The whole thing started a few years ago, when Flyer associate editor Toby Sells blindfolded himself to pick the match-ups for the Flyer‘s first Beer Bracket Challenge. It was all kind of a goof that first year, replete with a “trophy” made from an old ice bucket that editor Bruce VanWyngarden found in his garage. Now, the Beer Bracket Challenge has morphed into a lineup of 24 local beers from five breweries going toe-to-toe against each other for votes from Flyer readers. It is a friendly competition, but it is a competition — and these Memphis beer gurus want to win.

For the more casual craft beer fan, the Beer Bracket Challenge, assisted by some delicious pizza at Aldo’s Pizza Downtown, where this year’s seeding ceremony took place, is one of the best ways to take the aimlessness out of your tour of the booming Memphis craft beer scene. Sure it’s fun to simply toss a ball idly into the air on a lazy day, but sinking it through the hoop when there is a mob trying to stop you is just more fun.

There are four divisions in the challenge. The “Tapped Out” division was seeded with two big winners from last year, Meddlesome’s 201 Hoplar and one of my long time go-tos, Wiseacre’s Ananda — two IPA heavyweights in a town that loves its IPAs. In the first round of voting, 201 Hoplar beat out Midnight Magic, a German Black Ale from Memphis OB (Original Brewer) Ghost River. Ananda lost out to another Meddlesome entrant, Dirty Dova. This was a little surprising, but as beers go, Dirty Dova, a crisp and refreshing double IPA, is a winner. In fact, it may go down a little too easy; its 8.5 percent ABV makes it a brew on a mission. Get a Lyft home.

In the “Perfect Pour” division, Wiseacre’s Tiny Bomb lager beat out another top seed from last year, High Cotton’s Thai Pale Ale, making it to the third round, where it was voted out, losing to Memphis Made’s Fireside, a malty roasted Red Ale.

In the “Drafted” division, Meddlesome continued its winning streak, as its Broad Hammer American Brown Ale edged out Memphis Made’s Cat Nap IPA. Broad Hammer then went on to beat out Crosstown’s Siren Blonde Ale in the next round and, then, finally, steal a win over Wiseacre’s Regular Pale Ale to make the Final Four.

Over in the “Frosty Mug” division, Wiseacre’s coffee stout (and nearly guaranteed hangover cure) Gotta Get Up to Get Down, beat out Plaid Attack Scotch Ale, another perennial favorite from Memphis Made. Gotta Get Up was beaten in the next round by this year’s Cinderella story, Meddlesome’s Brass Bellows, a great blonde ale. For the record, Brass Bellows had some fearsome competition from long-time favorite Ghost River Gold, followed by a close contest with High Cotton’s Mexican Lager, a sort of cosmic ideal of Corona.

The Beer Bracket Final Four for 2019: 201 Hoplar, Broad Hammer, Brass Bellows, and Fireside. The big winner in the tourney has been Meddlesome Brewing. If not exactly the new kid in class, they are certainly not the old guard either. Their tap room, out near the end of Shelby Farms, might be a bit out of the loop, but their beers are hard to ignore.

Final Four voting ended at press time. We know that Meddlesome will take home our Beer Bracket Challenge Cup. But to find out which beer won, you’ll have to check next week’s Flyer.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

A look back at 2017 food news

2017 was looking to make me a liar. In last year’s “Look Ahead” story, I had several places set to open that just barely made it this year. They include: Sunrise, the biscuit-centered breakfast place from Central BBQ’s Craig Blondis and Roger Sapp and Sweet Grass’ Ryan Trimm, which opened in late November; the food hall South Main Market, which held a grand opening on December 2nd with an opening roster of promising eateries; and the Liquor Store, from the same folks as City & State, which opened in November.

One of the bigger food stories was related to the opening of the Crosstown Concourse building. Mama Gaia was the first out of the gate in early spring. They were followed by French Truck Coffee, Farm Burger, Next Door Eatery, MemPops, So Nuts, Curb Market, and I Love Juice Bar. I frequent the place and pay — gasp! — $11 for a small smoothie from the Juice Bar at least once a week.

Closing down and moving on: The first location of LYFE Kitchen in East Memphis closed in the fall. The second, in the Chisca downtown, closed for a short while and reopened as a reinvented space with a new menu and new decor. Also seeing new life were Brass Door and the Riverfront Grill (now the Front Porch), both forced into shape by Deni and Patrick Reilly of the Majestic Grill. The much-beloved Elwood’s Shack was closed for several months after a fire in December. It reopened in March.

Happy news: The Cosmic Coconut was turned into the City Silo, a vegan-forward space with several great, thoughtful dishes. The oldie but goodie Front Street Deli changed owners and reopened with a John Grisham-themed menu.

Elwood Shack

Sunrise

More milestones: Beauty Shop marked its 15th year with beehives and 1997 prices. Jim’s Grill, the longtime place for graduate lunches and Mother’s Day brunches, closed for good after an attempt at a revival by Alex Grisanti. Other Memphis favorites, the Peanut Shoppe on Summer closed earlier this month after 58 years and Spaghetti Warehouse closed after 30 years in downtown.

A few things found life beyond the confines of this column. Let’s start with Meddlesome and its cheekily named 201 Hoplar IPA, which a lot of folks found problematic, while the vast majority really loved the name-play. (Also, the IPA is really good.) Another hit was the video by Michael Donahue of the “Pie Lady” Katherine Perry. Perry made her caramel pie and a few others and found an enrapt audience. That video had more than one million (!) views. David Scott of Dave’s Bagels is, how do we put it???, super-hot. And folks like his freshly made, truly excellent bagels, too. You can find them pretty much everywhere.

After pouring millions into the old 19th Century Club building to open the restaurant Izakaya, the owners quickly reconsidered the rather unfocused approach, reopening as the chiefly Japanese and quite good Red Fish. The popular food truck Sushi Jimmi found new life in a brick and mortar space on Poplar. The same goes for Riko’s Kickin’ Chicken, which opened on Madison near Cleveland. Lucky Cat gathered quite a following for its pop-ups before settling on a space at the corner of Cooper and Peabody.

Nobody knows trouble like Taylor Berger. His grand vision for shipping crates serving as a venue was almost quashed as the some of the campus of Railgarten did not have proper inspection. It was all eventually worked out, and now the place serves as a happy meeting ground for young folks looking for fun.