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Stay and Play

It sure feels like summer! The hot, humid days have moved in with full force, but that doesn’t scare us. Yet as we all sit inside next to our struggling AC units, it’s easy to forget all the cool things going on in Memphis. The city attracted more than 11 million visitors last year, and for good reason: Memphis is a place people want to see. So get outside and re-familiarize yourself with all the great places and people that make Bluff City unique. Whether it’s restaurants, museums, or a night out on the town, there are plenty of reasons why here at home remains a great option for remaining summer plans.

Free Art and Museums

A staycation saves money, right? Save even more with these free attractions.

• The Dixon Gallery & Gardens is free through the end of 2024 with 2,000 objects in its collection and a glorious spread of botanic brilliance.

• The Memphis Brooks Museum of Art is free Saturdays from 10 a.m. to noon, and also for family-oriented Community Day events.

• The National Civil Rights Museum is free for Tennessee residents with state-issued ID Mondays from 3 p.m. until closing.

• The Stax Museum of American Soul Music is free for kids 6 and under. Shelby County residents with ID get in free on Tuesdays from 1 to 5 p.m. And it’s free for everyone from 1 to 5 p.m. on Family Day, the second Saturday of each month.

The Memphis Zoo (Photo: Courtesy Memphis Zoo)

• The Memphis Zoo is free for wee ones under 2 years old. Tennessee residents get in free on Tuesdays from 2 p.m. to close.

• The Art Museum of the University of Memphis is always free.

• Access to the Metal Museum grounds, including its sculpture garden and gift shop, is always free.

• Walking and driving tours of Elmwood Cemetery are free, and it’s pretty quiet as well.

As always, you should check with the venues first before you go. And as you visit these places, you might be tempted to buy a membership. Go ahead. Find the level that works for you and enjoy it year-round.
Jon W. Sparks

Hit the Town

A night at home curled up under a blanket to watch a movie or read a book is probably my ideal night. In fact, I’d say it’s so ideal that I do that practically every night, but, apparently, it’s good to shake things up a little every now and then. So this homebody did just that and dragged herself out of bed for a night out on the town. Sure, it was for a writing assignment, but I got out of the bed and that’s a start.

With a friend in tow, the night started at Bardog Tavern for dinner and drinks. I ordered something with rum that our server recommended — couldn’t really tell you what else was in it because I heard the word “rum” and that was enough for me. Turns out the name of the drink is James’ Cock, and I sucked it down like a Coca-Cola, so do with that what you will.

After that we headed to Blind Bear, a speakeasy I’d never heard about before, mostly because I rarely leave the house after 7 p.m. Then it was time for the Flying Saucer and, like, Beale and stuff. (I had a bit to drink at this point.) I think we headed to Paula & Raiford’s Disco after, waited in line for about 10 minutes, and then gave up and ordered a Lyft. But, yeah, it was nice to shake things up a bit for a bit of a “staycation,” but the best part was being able to fall asleep in my own bed. — Abigail Morici

Be a Tourist For a Day

More than 11 million people came to Memphis on vacation — on vacation! — last year. That’s roughly the population of Belgium. Why?! The crime! The heat! The potholes!

Daily Memphians might miss the mystique of the city’s cultural treasure trove that draws all those tourists each year. The Pyramid’s funny. Barbecue is routine. Beale is for tourists. Don’t get us started on Graceland.

But if you’re staycating this year, try (at least) vacating your house or your neighborhood. Go find out what makes Memphis a destination. Go reconnect with that everyday magic. Do it all while staying within your staycation budget, too.

Here’s a brief list of classic (and free!) tourist spots to hit for your Memphis staycation:

Graceland — Brag that you’ve never been? Go. See what you think. Free walk-up admission to the Meditation Garden daily.

Beale Street — Go for the people-watching. Stay for the music and a Big Ass Beer. Are your feet 10 feet off?

Big River Crossing — A one-of-a-kind walk with Insta-worthy views of the river and the city. Free daily.

Bass Pro Shops at the Pyramid — Fish pond, gator pit, and massive aquarium? Check. The place is a tourist magnet for a reason. Free daily. — Toby Sells

Be a Homebody

Staycate means staycate. No need to go figuring out car trips to some semi-distant place or to rush out to some favorite or fetchingly rumored juke joint in the evenings just because you’ve got some spare time.

Stay home. Sleep late. Alternatively, get up early in the morning when it’s still cool enough and take long walks on your property or in your neighborhood.

Give yourself at least one good substantial grocery visit. Then put it to use. Cook something new, for yourself or guests. And back in that fridge somewhere is an item you bought backaways with some purpose in mind you haven’t got to yet. Do it now before the food goes bad.

Fix up that spare room you’ve been using as a warehouse space. Change those worn-out bulbs. Take care of those overlooked potted plants. They’re thirstier than you are!

Homebody starter kit (Photo: Jackson Baker)

You bought those books. Now read them. Ditto with those magazines that are lying around. Forget about social media for a while. If you’ve got to turn on the computer, then use it to catch up on news you missed.

Look at yourself in the mirror and take inventory. I don’t need to tell you that you’ll see something that needs changing. Change it. Or at least start the process.

For a little while, everything is in your hands. Enjoy the fact. — Jackson Baker

The Memphis International Restaurant Tour

Eating out at a great restaurant is my favorite thing to do on a vacation.

Eating out at a great restaurant is also my favorite thing to do on a staycation.

You can experience other countries by staying home and visiting Memphis restaurants that specialize in various types of food from across the globe. Sort of “Around the World in 901 Days.” Maybe choose cuisine from a particular country each day of your staycation. Some places serve lunch, which usually is cheaper. And if you don’t know what to order at these places, ask your servers what they’d recommend. Here are some restaurant ideas:

Tamboli’s Pasta & Pizza (Italian), 1761 Madison Avenue

Pantà Memphis (Catalan), 2146 Monroe Avenue

Mosa Asian Bistro (Asian fusion), 850 South White Station Road

Las Tortugas (Mexican), 1215 South Germantown Road, and
Las Tortugas Deli Mexicana, 6300 Poplar Avenue No. 115

El Sabor Latino (Colombian), 665 Avon Road

India Palace (Indian), 1720 Poplar Avenue

Bala Tounkara at Bala’s Bistro (Photo: Michael Donahue)

Bala’s Bistro (African), 4571 Elvis Presley Boulevard

Casablanca Restaurant (Moroccan), 5030 Poplar Avenue No. 7 and
1707 Madison Avenue No. 103

Sabor Caribe (Venezuelan), 662 Madison Avenue

Tuyen’s Asian Bistro (Vietnamese), 288 North Cleveland Street

Sakura Japanese Restaurant (Japanese), 4840 Poplar Avenue and 2060 West Street in Germantown

Wang’s Mandarin House (Chinese), 6065 Park Avenue

Taking a trip around town to try exotic food is less expensive than airfare to exotic places. Not to mention lodging. You can go home to your own bed. And you don’t have to worry about passports.
Michael Donahue

A Night at the Shell

There are a lot of places to see live music in Memphis: the Beale Street club packed with tourists, the Orpheum Theatre’s Gilded Age grandeur, the Green Room’s intimate sounds. But the best place in Memphis for a night of music is the Overton Park Shell.

Built in 1936 as a Works Progress Administration project designed to help workers during the Great Depression, it is one of a handful of band shells from that era still standing.

PreauXX at the Shell (Photo: Chris McCoy)

I was recently reminded of how lucky we are to have a place like the Shell when I saw PreauXX play there on July 1st. It was one of the super hot days we’ve been having this year, so I was expecting to be uncomfortable, at least until well after the sun had set. But the towering trees of Overton Park provided enough shade that a steady breeze made it quite pleasant, especially after a couple of days spent indoors hiding from the heat. We found a spot near the front of the stage and set up our camp chairs next to a young mom corralling her toddler.

My wife LJ stayed with the chairs as I checked out the food trucks, which were parked next to the new, greatly improved bar facilities.

We were chowing down on some barbecue tacos when PreauXX hit the stage, backed by his friends from the Unapologetic crew. The young mother was joined by her partner, and, after ignoring the music in favor of rolling on the lawn, the toddler threw his energy into dancing. (Really, it was more of a body-wide twitch, but he was trying his best.) When AWFM joined in for “Slide,” folks were streaming down the hill to do the title dance. This stage has hosted everyone from Elvis to Seun Kuti and Egypt 80, but for this night, PreauXX was the king. — Chris McCoy

Drag Shows at the Atomic Rose

Thanks to the phenomenon known as RuPaul’s Drag Race, we’re able to appreciate the art of drag without leaving our homes. And while watching hours of Snatch Game makes for the perfect staycation activity, so does supporting your local drag performers and artists.

Voted as the number-one best drag bar in the South by Time Out, Atomic Rose is the top destination for your staycation entertainment fix. The club recently went viral, at the height of Tennessee’s anti-drag controversy, when local drag queen and activist Bella DuBalle informed the audience of the severity of the bill and what it meant for the drag community. But the clip that circulated around TikTok only gave viewers a tidbit of the magic the nightclub possesses.

Drag at the Atomic Rose (Photo: Drew Parker)

DuBalle is known as Slade Kyle outside of drag and says one of the things that makes the club so special is that it is a true melting pot, inclusive in multiple ways encompassing all genders, races, and sexuality. This diversity is showcased in one of their most iconic events known as the “War Of The Roses,” which Kyle describes as an eight-week drag competition, featuring a large and diverse pool of performers.

And if you happen to swing by after War season, the club also offers Friday and Saturday shows, as well as a drag brunch on Sunday. Friday and Saturday shows start at 10:30 p.m., and Sunday brunch service starts at 11 a.m., with the show starting at 12:30 p.m. — Kailynn Johnson

SPORTS!

We can never get enough Grizz action at the FedExForum. But they’re out of season (unless you’ve made the pilgrimage to the Las Vegas Summer League to watch Kenny Lofton Jr. hoop). Luckily, there’s another pleasant Downtown destination to get your fix of ’ball. AutoZone Park is home to the Redbirds and 901 FC, but it’s sometimes apparent that Memphians take the stadium for granted, evidenced by the quite noticeable number of empty seats during baseball and soccer games. It’s still hot outside, but an afternoon or night out at the ballpark is an excellent way to shake up a routine and try out a new experience in town.

Even if you’re not into sports all that much, there are plenty of additional perks that come tacked on to a game. A personal favorite of mine is an all-you-can-eat series at Redbirds games, which, for just a few extra bucks, gets you a pass into a roped-off section that provides drinks, snacks, hot dogs, and an endless supply of the featured entrée (anything from brisket, to nachos, to my personal favorite: hot wings).

901 FC’s Bluff City Mafia (Photo: Memphis 901 FC)

Other enticements include specialty nights for $1 hot dogs or $2 beers. And when those nights line up, oh man. Kicking back with a few brews in what can either be a pleasant or a raucous atmosphere, depending on the matchup, is a reliable recipe for a fun night out. And if there’s a fireworks show afterward, well, all the better. Don’t sleep on it, Memphians! — Samuel X. Cicci

Tend Your Garden

If you time your work hours right and stay hydrated, summer gardening can be a breeze — and yield delicious rewards. Why else would the University of Tennessee’s Institute of Agriculture host its Summer Celebration of ag workshops and activities in Jackson only last week? The summer means heat to some, but for others it’s known as peak growing season. While that might sound dangerously like work, once your garden is up and running, tending it can be the perfect break from both screen time and chair time.

Early mornings can be sublime even in July, especially with an eyeful of blooms and fruits of the vine. It’s also a good time to water those roots before the blazing sun can bake the water droplets off the leaves. And yet, assuming you’ve done your homework and have a little mulched, irrigated, squirrel-protected paradise outside your door, there’s still more awaiting the horticultural staycationer: a world of garden clubs and nonprofits to liven up the typically solitary pursuit of the perfect bloom.

Take a break from the screen and tend your garden. (Photo: Alex Greene)

You don’t have to be a master of the pursuit to join the Memphis Area Master Gardeners, and it can be a great way to learn from expert volunteers who offer classes, working closely with the local UT extension service. There are also long-established neighborhood garden clubs, like the Cooper-Young Garden Club with their annual garden walk, and even community gardens if you prefer your plant-tending to be more sociable. Check out memphiscitybeautiful.org for a registry of every community garden in the city. — Alex Greene

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Cover Feature News

Blooms of Beauty, Blooms of Change: How Memphis Gardeners Are Making Our World Better, One Flower at a Time

Memphis is a city bursting with gardens, and that’s never more apparent than during this time of year. Stroll through nearly any neighborhood, and the colors and scents of myriad blossoms will enchant you. What’s more, so much of our artful horticulture goes on in the private domains of thousands of households, the delights of public spaces like the Memphis Botanic Garden and others notwithstanding. Yet how often do we step back and savor the blooms?

With a small shift in perspective, the humble, homey horticultural delights of a single yard can take on a far greater significance than you might imagine. All it takes is an appreciation of all our many yards in aggregate, and suddenly these tiny spaces can be seen as part of a movement of people determined to confront the crises of our time through their own love of greenery. This week, we salute the great gardening impulse of the city, with a particular focus on one neighborhood that’s leading the charge in getting us all to stop and smell the roses — not to mention the violets, and even a milkweed or two — and perhaps even save the planet while we’re at it.

Photo: Jack Kenner

Walk the Walk

This past weekend, hundreds bore witness to just how dear our gardens are to us, as they devoted two idyllic days to simply walking, watching, and breathing in the fair aromas of countless petals. Many neighborhoods have garden clubs, of course, and we’ve all noticed the “garden of the month” signs that such clubs bestow on their most gifted planters, but none have taken the art of appreciation as far as the Cooper-Young Garden Walk, founded six years ago by neighborhood garden club member Kim Halyak.

“We really are lucky in Memphis,” she explains, when we speak in the days leading up to the event. “We’ve got a long growing season and a beautiful tree canopy. And now we have the largest garden walk in the Mid-South. We have people coming from Des Moines, Fredericksburg, Virginia, Texarkana, Little Rock, Knoxville, Nashville, and Cincinnati. I feel like we’re finally making inroads into garden tourism, which is a really big thing in the United States. If you’re not a gardener, you might not know that. But people travel all over the country, or even to England, just to tour gardens.”

Indeed, it was while visiting gardens elsewhere that Halyak was struck by the role such tourism could play in a city’s growth. “I’m from Pittsburgh, so once, when I went home to visit, my sister and I went up to the Buffalo garden walk. And I was so awestruck by it. I think we saw maybe 90 gardens that weekend. And at one point, I was standing on a street corner, trying to figure out where to go next, and I realized that I had never seen so many beautiful gardens all compressed together. I mean, there were literally 20 gardens on every block. And I had the epiphany that this is how you turn a city around. When you get enough people who are fixing up their yards, a street suddenly has not just one garden on the street, it’s a bunch of gardens, and then the streets multiply, and then it becomes a neighborhood thing. And my ultimate hope is that we can grow this beyond Cooper-Young.”

For now, just the one garden walk is plenty impressive. Initially featuring 23 gardens in its first year, and now including 94, the annual walk has attracted as many as 1,200 attendees in pre-COVID times. And there’s much more to it than simply taking in the view. “We’ll have educational speakers and vendors and booths,” says Halyak. “We’ll have speakers on herbs, vertical gardening, composting, botanical sprays, making sauerkraut, urban forestry. A little bit of everything. And this year, we’re going to have live music. That will be a first for us. All of these activities are at what we call the secret gardens, the back gardens. Some gardens on the walk are only on the front. But we have other gardens that are both front and back.”

In the accompanying guide book, details of each participating home and yard are provided, as well as information on supporting businesses and local organizations like the Memphis Herb Society, the Memphis Area Master Gardeners, and the West Tennessee Urban Forestry Council. Beyond such educational and networking opportunities, the garden walk is a shot in the arm for local businesses, many of whom offer discounts and deals for ticket-holders. For these merchants, the garden walk promises another kind of green and another kind of growth.

“My goal,” says Halyak, “was that at some point down the road we could be on the same scale as Buffalo. Because they have been doing it for 26 years, they have about 440 gardens that are open in one weekend, and they bring in 65,000 people. I’ve been told by people who run the Buffalo walk — and I’ve actually picked their brains, interviewed them, to really find out what makes theirs work — and they said they bring in about $5 million a year into the city, just because of the garden walk.” In the meantime, ticket sales alone benefit the Cooper-Young neighborhood. “We started ours as a way to raise money for beautification projects, and it has just grown.”

Go Native

Among the walk’s featured talks, one of the most forward-thinking, even ground-breaking speakers is not a horticulturalist by trade or education, at least of the formal variety, but, appropriately, simply a home gardener who wanted a deeper understanding of what she loves. Dana Sanders moved to Memphis in 2013 to work in healthcare, and attending the Cooper-Young garden walk had an immediate impact on her favorite hobby.

“For me, it’s not just about appearance. It probably was when I moved here. What really was the biggest impetus for change, for me, was going on the garden walk the first time. It must have been the second year they did it. I met Mike Larivee, who started The Compost Fairy. And the following year, Doug Tallamy came to speak. So those two people, and learning more through them, kind of fit with my interests. I’ve always been into conservation and protecting nature, but after meeting them I was like, ‘Oh! The little things really do make a difference.’”

Photo: Kenzie Campbell

This year, Sanders herself will speak on the subject of cultivating more native plants, and the positive impact the practice can have on pollinators like butterflies and bees, now facing an unprecedented existential threat. As she explains, “Tallamy said, ‘Okay, we know that lawns are, hands down, the most irrigated, fertilized, non-edible use of land in the country. It doesn’t support anything, but 40 million acres in the U.S. are devoted to lawns. If everybody reduced their lawn by 50 percent, altogether that 20 million acres would double the amount of national parkland that we have. And this would make a huge difference in terms of carbon sequestration and supporting insects.’”

Indeed, Tallamy has brought into sharp relief just what an impact home gardeners can make. A professor in the department of entomology and wildlife ecology at the University of Delaware, he has an acute understanding of how plants that have co-evolved with local insect and bird populations can bolster the well-being of those species and entire ecosystems. As he notes in one interview, “Eighty-five percent of our woody invasive plants are from our gardens. So we’ve converted an awful lot of our land into a landscape with non-native plants that are not supporting the food webs that everything else needs.” The answer, he says, is to build a “homegrown national park,” composed of a patchwork of home gardens favoring native plants on which pollinators can better thrive.

The Cooper-Young neighborhood, it turns out, is full of gardeners receptive to such ideas. As Halyak observes, “I would say that 60 percent of us have taken native plants to heart, way higher than the average population in Memphis. At the garden walk, we will have educational signs all around the neighborhood about pollinators and native plants. We’ll have some native plants marked, and we’ll have tags on invasive plants. We had Doug Tallamy as a guest speaker a couple of years ago, and I would say he is the premier speaker of the pollinator movement in the United States. And after he spoke, all of us were like, ‘Oh my gosh, we had no idea.’ So we’ve all been embracing it ever since.”

Mike Larivee is a Cooper-Young resident who took Tallamy’s writings to heart very early on. In 2017, he started a nonprofit called The Compost Fairy, which collects kitchen waste from homes and businesses, composts it on a massive scale, then delivers the resulting compost to members’ homes and gardens. It proved so successful that the enterprise has recently partnered with Atlas Organics and is now part of a massive, multi-state group doing similar work throughout the South.

“I was tremendously influenced by Doug Tallamy’s writings,” says Larivee. “He’s a role model for me, with the backyard national park idea. We have 136 native species in my yard, and it’s growing. Lots of diversity, lots of habitat, lots of Tennessee native plant material.

“The soil is the foundation of the terrestrial ecosystem, and you’ve got to have a solid foundation to build a house on. I grew up on a farm, so throwing food waste in the trash was not a thing, ever, in my family. We grew all our own food, so I grew up knowing where food came from, which a lot of kids don’t know these days. And you always have to start with the soil, because if you take care of the soil, it will take care of you.”

Furthermore, he says, Tallamy’s approach is both productive and beautiful. “You know, ‘Lawns=Yawns.’ They’re pretty boring. They don’t do anything for us. And culturally, the lawn says, ‘I’m so rich and I have so many resources that I don’t have to do anything with them. I can just leave this space unproductive and look at it.’ That never made any sense to me. In contrast, we make a thousand pounds of food a year on my fifth of an acre. We’ve got bee hives and chickens and ducks and 15 fruit trees and raspberry and blackberry canes on the side of the house. It’s a creative and productive use of space.

“Native plants are pretty, and they’re low maintenance. They know what to do here. You don’t have to hold their hand. That way, I have time for other projects. I’m busy!”

“Smell me, touch me, taste me.”

Ultimately, Halyak hopes the model of the Cooper-Young Garden Walk will expand. “My ultimate hope is that we can grow this beyond Cooper-Young,” she says. “Last October, Memphis Art & Design Week reached out to me and said, ‘Is there any way you could pool some gardens together?’ So I reached out to Soulsville and we had two gardens there. We did Orange Mound, where we had three gardens. We did Cooper-Young with two gardens, and we had two or three gardens in Bartlett. And it was a one-day tour, from 10-2. I had no idea how many people would come, because it was not promoted very well, but there were 100 people who toured those gardens.”

Other gardens are growing throughout the city, of course, but perhaps the most inspiring model, horticulturally speaking, is in Frayser. That’s where an elementary school decided to go beyond the “Hey kids, let’s plant radishes!” approach to horticultural education and took over an abandoned lot across the street. It’s managed by David Vaughan and, as Mike Larivee puts it, “he’s a badass!”

Gardens — and education — bloom at New Hope Christian Academy. (Photo: David Vaughan)

“I work at New Hope Christian Academy,” Vaughan explains. “Our space is about three-quarters of an acre and is both an outdoor classroom and a production garden. We have flowers, herbs, fruit trees, tons of vegetables, but also spaces geared strictly toward education and inspiring awe in students. Chris Cosby helped me design the space eight years ago.”

At the time, Vaughan worked for Cosby at the Memphis Botanic Garden, and together they crafted an approach that, like Larivee’s, blurs the line between the ornamental and the productive. And it’s exemplary of an approach that features native plants. “I think New Hope could be a really good model for community gardens. Our techniques are replicable. We’ve taken what was an abandoned lot, with your standard red clay, and really transformed it. We haven’t tilled since year one, when we broke ground with a tractor. Since then, we’ve just been composting and doing heavy mulching.”

Much of what Vaughan does at New Hope could make for the ultimate home garden. “I’ve been implementing more ornamental elements due to my experience at the Botanic Garden — with plants and color combinations. We have a garden at the farm that’s a sensory garden. It’s for the senses and very ornamentally based. A big chunk of our mission is to get kids inspired. And right as you enter the farm, there’s a big circular space that engages all the senses, with tons of signage. ‘Smell me, touch me, taste me.’ There’s tons of color and a lot of height differences, and at the center is an herb spiral — a permaculture technique where you have a bed of plants that starts from three to four feet tall and then spirals downward. So you’re creating these microclimates.”

Vaughan notes that New Hope is not the only example of enlightened farming. Like Halyak, he’d like to see more citywide momentum. “One of the biggest problems in Memphis is the lack of a connecting force for gardening and horticulture. There are all these individual gems throughout the city that are doing good things.” The beauty of having so many gems, of course, is in their diversity, and ultimately this is both ecologically and aesthetically sound. It’s something to consider when strolling past yards exploding with color: Each one of them could mark a fundamental step toward environmental health, a future where pollinators and the systems supporting them can thrive in a million different settings, no matter their size or scale.

That’s one thing that appeals to Sanders, who, like most of us, is just trying to make her home a better, more sustainable space. “There’s this mentality of ‘Yards are just supposed to look pretty,’” she says. “Now, because of what we know, we have a chance to make a difference in our ecology. So my little postage stamp of a yard really can make a difference.”