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Delivering the Goods

Last week on a Memphis Twitter thread, the subject of restaurant takeout and delivery options arose. People began name-checking dining options and dishes and service they’d tried and liked. I suggested they should begin tweeting their best experiences, and in the process, give a shout-out to local restaurants who were trying to survive in these trying times. It went — pardon the expression — viral, with dozens of Memphians tweeting out their favorites over the course of a couple days.

We decided to use that spontaneous outpouring of support and love for our local restaurant community as the basis for this story — to offer some views from the trenches and find out how some of your favorite eateries are coping. — Bruce VanWyngarden

Pete & Sam’s

I long to sit in one of those big booths at Pete & Sam’s, beneath the enlarged photos of founder Sam Bomarito, his sister Vita Gattuso, and others involved in one way or the other with the popular restaurant.

For now, the meals I love still are available, but they’re takeout only. The restaurant is offering lunch and dinner curbside pickup, says Michael Bomarito. “We’ve got a kiosk out there,” he says. “A person sitting out there between 4 p.m. and 8 p.m. with a credit card reader.”

Pete & Sam’s also delivers all over, whether it’s Memphis, Bartlett, or Germantown, Bomarito says. “We’re coming to you. So that’s the end of that. We’ve got three or four drivers every day. We start at noon. Then we deliver all day until 8 p.m. during the week and 9 p.m. on Fridays. Back to 8 p.m. Sundays.”

As for the food, Bomarito says, “We’re pretty much doing 90 percent of the menu. A couple of things we pulled off. They weren’t big sellers. We didn’t want food to go to waste.” Available items include their frozen lasagna that serves three and frozen ravioli meat sauce. “We have people calling from all over the country wanting us to ship our stuff.”

The take-and-bake frozen pizzas are their hottest item, Bomarito says. You can build your own pizza by adding spinach or whatever topping you want. The pizzas are covered with shrink wrap at the restaurant, the Pete & Sam’s logo is added, and the pizza is ready to go. The frozen pizzas have been available over a year, but, Bomarito says, “The last couple of weeks people went crazy stocking up their freezer.” — Michael Donahue

3886 Park, (901) 458-0694, peteandsams.com

R.P. Tracks

“Tracks has never closed,” says Mary Laws, who, with her husband Bernard, has owned the beloved University of Memphis spot for the past five years. She’s worked there for 16. “Even when they did a huge remodel in 2000, Rick and Peter [the former owners] never closed.”

R.P. Tracks has been a haven for college-goers’ study breaks and professors’ and locals’ beer meet-ups for more than 30 years (33 in December, according to Mary).

Mary Laws

R.P. Tracks bartender Jeremy Allen delivers food curbside.

“Tracks has always been here for the people in this neighborhood and the city,” she says, noting the many regulars who’ve come in for burgers and nachos or sat at the bar for conversation through the decades. “I thought, even if they can’t come in, at least they know they can still get their favorite food. They’re still seeing the bartenders who have been waiting on them for years. It’s just that small interaction, I think, that gives people a little ray of sunshine.”

After a rocky start with low carryout sales the first couple of weeks, they’ve recently extended their hours. Customers can call ahead and order from the slightly limited food menu, which thankfully still includes the famous nachos (we’ll take the barbecue tofu, please!), burgers, wings, quesadillas, and more. To-go beers, cocktails, and shooters are also available.

“I cannot tell you how much I have been touched by the support of the community,” Mary says. “If I stop and think about it, I tear up because I’m so grateful, just beyond words.”

R.P. Tracks is open for curbside pickup from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. Give them a call to place your order, then call again when you arrive and they’ll bring it out to you. — Shara Clark

3547 Walker, (901) 327-1471, rptracks.com

Spindini/South Main Grocery

When the restaurant industry seemed to plummet overnight, Spindini owner Jim LoSapio had to reimagine his business model — and quick. He and his partner came up with a plan to flip the Downtown restaurant into a grocery store. Thus, in late March, South Main Grocery was born.

Shoppers will now find shelves and coolers stocked with a variety of grocery offerings, to-go dishes, and more, as well as household items including soap, cleaning supplies, paper towels, and the ever-elusive toilet paper.

Spindini/South Main Grocery Facebook

Spindini has become South Main Grocery for the time being.

“We’ve incorporated the grocery store ideas with some of the things that we did well as a restaurant,” LoSapio says. “We have grab-and-go lasagna and take-home par-baked pizzas. We’ve also incorporated things we do at our other restaurants as grab-and-go items, like gumbo and red beans and rice.”

They’re also hand-cutting fresh meat, with filets and ribeyes on offer, in addition to burger meat. Current seafood options include red fish, salmon, and shrimp. Also available: milk, orange juice, eggs, pastas, sliced bread, hoagie rolls, bagels, and freshly baked cookies, muffins, and more.

Their new dinner specials have taken off. “On Monday and Friday, we’re doing $25 smoked pork butt that we slow smoke for 11 hours,” LoSapio says. “Tuesday and Thursday, we roast chicken halves and serve them with a side for $12. Wednesdays, we’re doing pans of the awesome Spindini sausage lasagna that we’ve been doing for years. It feeds six to eight people.”

LoSapio is grateful. “South Main and Downtown is really helping us support what we’re trying to do and helping me create job opportunities for my staff. [A situation like this] really makes you appreciate the loyalty of the employees, the loyalty of the community — and proves that we’re strong and we’ll definitely get through it.” — SC

383 S. Main, (901) 578-2767, follow them on Facebook for more info

The Bar-B-Q Shop

In the South, barbecue is the unofficial food of community. It’s what Memphians pick up, by the pound, to celebrate family reunions and graduations. Out-of-town visitors usually want to know where the best barbecue joint is. And while the coronavirus has put gatherings on hold, barbecue is still grade-A comfort food, and we could all use a little comfort these days.

“Our customers have such different relationships with all of us. It’s just been challenging from that perspective because part of what we do is not just to-go food, it’s interaction,” says Eric Vernon, manager/owner of the Bar-B-Q Shop in Midtown. It’s been hard, but Vernon says he and his staff are adapting to providing the comfort food without the personal connection — at least for the time being.

Jesse Davis

The store is offering to-go, curbside pickup, and specially priced bulk orders, or family packs. The Boston Butt Shoulder is $11.29 per pound, and the Beef Brisket is $15.49 per pound. Their famous Bar-B-Q Spaghetti is $21.99 per quart. To make getting your pulled pork fix easier, the folks at the Bar-B-Q Shop have designated the parking spots in front of the restaurant, marked by orange traffic cones, as the pickup area.

“We’re also, for the first time, doing DoorDash delivery, and we’re working on our online menu for our website,” Vernon adds, saying that he’s had calls and texts from regular customers with suggestions for how to best serve quarantined Memphians hungry for barbecue and how to best get the word out. “I get a tip every other day from people who are just wanting us to stay afloat.” Here’s to staying afloat through the storm — and to sharing community and comfort food once the storm passes. — Jesse Davis

1782 Madison, (901) 272-1277, thebar-b-qshop.com

Maw Maw’s ravioli from the team of Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman

Ticer and Hudman Restaurants

All is not lost if you still can order Maw Maw’s ravioli from Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman. Ticer and Hudman are the chef/owners of a string of popular restaurants, which now are offering curbside pickup.

Nick Talarico, operations manager for the restaurants, described what each place is doing.

Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen “strictly does take-and-bake, and everything is cooked at [the customer’s] home,” Talarico says. “They do a family meal and an à la carte meal — like pastas and sauces. A lot of people are getting Maw Maw’s ravioli and taking it home and cooking it.”

Catherine & Mary’s and Gray Canary have teamed up at Catherine & Mary’s restaurant, he says. “They’re doing take-and-bake stuff as well as hot-and-ready items. They’re doing fun things. Like they did tamales one day. They’re doing a potato cake with neckbone gravy. Sort of a play on Hog & Hominy’s poutine. And then we also see a lot of our pastas — the hot and ready-to-eat pastas — as really successful down there.”

Bishop, he says, is “doing the same with hot-and-ready and takeout items — probably the Birdie [fried chicken, dill aioli, Calabrian honey] and the Bishop burger are the most popular.”

The restaurants are offering dinner, but Ticer and Hudman also rolled out Saturday and Sunday brunch at Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen and Catherine & Mary’s. “Like pancakes and quiche. And we’re doing grits. Doing a couple of different things.” — MD

Menus are updated daily on Instagram: @amitaliancooks, @catherine_marys, and @bishopmemphis.

Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen, 712 W. Brookhaven Circle, (901) 347-3569

Catherine & Mary’s, 272 S. Main, (901) 254-8600

Bishop, 545 S. Main, No. 111, (901) 896-0228

Vegan Options

Sure, a lot of folks are ordering takeout from restaurants, but how is that going for the Memphis vegan community?

Many vegans, of course, are accustomed to having fewer choices when dining out, and most are comfortable with cooking at home for that very reason. The closest they come to home deliveries may be those from local farmers. But now in Memphis, vegan takeout has become fairly common. One place making a name for itself in this regard would seem quite unlikely — a dive bar: the Lamplighter Lounge.

Laurel Cannito from The Lamplighter Lounge

“We have a few unique vegan options,” says co-owner and chef Laurel Cannito. “Our curry special, our vegan sausage, egg, and cheese, our veggie burger, and our veggie dog. People are into it. We’re open every day from noon until 1a.m. After midnight, we try to get people to pick up, but if we have someone who can’t leave their house, we’re not going to tell them no. We deliver to the Midtown area, free if the order’s over $20. Under $20, there’s a $3 delivery fee. But most people who have been ordering have tended to get a good bit of stuff.”

As with all restaurants these days, a new hygiene regime is in force at the Lamp. “We got N-95 face masks before there was a shortage,” says Cannito. “We have gloves and lots of hand sanitizer and disinfectant. And we have disinfecting protocols we use every night, so everything is properly cleaned.”

Many other vegan-friendly establishments are also delivering these days, of course. Some, like the Lamplighter or Cheffie’s Cafe, use DoorDash, others use UberEats. Most vegans have their go-to restaurants in town, often non-vegan kitchens that have vegan-friendly items, as with many Asian or Mediterranean restaurants. Crazy Noodle will tweak their standard recipes for vegans on request.

But comfort food may be the order of the day for most stressed-out Americans, and it’s in high demand. Cannito has to put me on hold several times as orders roll in on a Thursday night. “Our most popular vegan item?” she says, when she finally has a moment. She doesn’t have to pause. “Hands down, the veggie burger with fries.” — Alex Greene

Lamplighter Lounge, 1702 Madison, (901) 567-5322

The Second Line and Fino’s

It’s going to be a while before we can laugh on the patio at The Second Line, enjoy quiet conversations in the elegant Restaurant Iris, and smile inside the bright and cheerful Fino’s Italian Deli & Catering.

For now, Kelly English, chef/owner of these restaurants, is adapting to the times. “Iris and Second Line kind of combined into one delivery and pickup service,” he says. “And we’re focusing on meals that people can eat with their families. Our most popular thing is the crawfish étouffée, gumbo, and jambalaya. I think people want to hug right now. The closest thing we can get to a hug is from food that comforts us.”

Caleb Sigler

Crawfish Étouffée from The Second Line/Restaurant Iris

Fino’s is doing call-in/to-go and curbside. No one sandwich is the most popular, he says. “Everybody has their own favorite Fino sandwich. It really depends on who walks in that day.”

But, English says, “The most popular thing, by far, we’ve done at Fino’s is our program that lets us partner with citizens to feed first-line responders. For groups of 400, we deliver $500 worth of food to police stations or fire departments and a lot of other places you might not think about, like the health department, as first-line responders. We’ve been doing that at least once a day.”

English also is partnering with Roadshow BMW to provide daily lunches to hospital staff members who are treating COVID-19 patients. He posts daily reports on deliveries and other doings at his restaurants on Facebook. “I fight for my team. I fight for my people. And some of my people can’t eat right now. Tired is nothing compared to what some people are going through.” — MD

For information on menus, prices, and restaurant hours, go to irisetc.com.

The Second Line, 2144 Monroe, (901) 590-2829

Fino’s Italian Deli & Catering, 1853 Madison, (901) 272-3466

Huey’s

The Huey burger is the definition of comfort food in Memphis. It’s a delicious reminder of good times.

As the chief operating officer for Huey’s nine locations, Ashley Robilio helped formulate the company’s response to the COVID-19 crisis. “We spent a good portion of the first two weeks in March just talking about strategy, and talking about all the what-ifs,” she says. “Everyone was so worried, and all of our employees were so scared. We really tried to calm them down and be as positive as we could. … We were probably one of the first restaurants that started social distancing. Even the term ‘social distancing’ was pretty unknown in Memphis for a while, so we got that part pretty quickly.”

Courtesy of Huey’s

When the shutdown orders came, the Memphis locations went first, followed a couple of days later by the suburban stores. Very quickly, Huey’s went to curb service and takeout only. Robillio says the transition went fairly smoothly. “We have decided to not do any layoffs,” Robillio says. “We’ve got a lot of obviously very good PR and thanks from all of our employees. I mean literally, some of our employees were in tears when they heard.”

The restaurant chain tapped its savings and, after some initial confusion, secured a Small Business Administration disaster assistance loan to keep their employees on the payroll. They kept employees at full pay with shortened hours and tweaked their to-go offerings. “We did take a few of the menu items off, either ones that had a lot of prep time or that don’t travel well, like nachos.”

Having a Huey burger delivered to your domicile seems like getting a message from a saner time. The Madison Avenue burger, which adds melted swiss cheese, mushrooms, and bacon to Huey’s juicy beef patty on a sourdough bun, is a deep menu cut that’s worth it. For the non-beef options, the Cajun-seasoned, grilled tuna steak sandwich is always delicious. Huey’s serves the classic steak cut fries, but a basket of tater tots or onion rings is an excellent alternative. Our recent order had encouraging messages hand-written on the takeout box. “We have gotten so many comments about the notes that we’ve written on these boxes, and some of them have gotten quite creative.”

In the coming days, Huey’s expects to roll out more ordering and delivery options and introduce a catering menu aimed at families and groups. They have already been filling large orders donors have bought to feed places like Hope House.

Robilio says she’s been in constant contact with others in the Mid-South restaurant community. “We’ve heard from a lot of different people, wanting our advice, wanting to know what we’re going to do, when we’re going to do it, and how we’re going to do it. We’ve obviously shared some things with anybody who asks. It is a community effort, and anything we can do to help the restaurant community, we want to do it. We’ve always been like that. My dad loved helping other restaurants. He loves helping anybody, and we’ve tried to stay with that same mentality.” — Chris McCoy

multiple locations, hueyburger.com

Beer!

Craft beer is essential. Local, state, and federal officials have (finally) confirmed this fact — one that I’ve known all along. In this virus world of isolation, I consider beer essential sanity supplies.

Now, it’s not the same. I like sitting at the bar and catching up with friends over pints. But, thankfully, you can still at least get those beers and bullshit with your buds over Zoom. (Still nope, though. Not even close to the same. Alas.)

Tons of local rules were relaxed on beers and breweries as stay-at-home orders came down late last month. Bars, restaurants, and breweries were allowed to offer curbside pickup and delivery.

This relentless global tragedy offers little in the way of comfort and joy. To endure, I’ve been counting every small grace I can find. One of them was the first time I ever grabbed a to-go beer from the Young Avenue Deli. I placed a dinner order over the phone and also requested a local draft beer, a 22-ouncer. What would this look like? How would it come? On my walk to pick up my order, I reveled in a daiquiri-stand fantasy of a big-ass styrofoam cup with a piece of tape over the straw hole. However it came, I knew I’d be sipping that beer on the walk home.

My fantasy wasn’t far off. It came in that plastic, Midtown-iconic Deli cup. No tape on the top, but it did have a lid with that straw hole. Plenty good enough for me. The whole thing was just … different, and felt sort of illegal. Drinking it on the way home felt deliciously rebellious.

Most Memphis restaurants are offering up curbside beer pickup and delivery. They are allowed to, at least. Many have wondered if that service will remain after social distancing orders are lifted. Seems like it’d be tough to walk it back now.

Most of Memphis’ craft breweries are offering pickup or delivery. Here’s a quick look at what they’re offering:

Meddlesome — Curbside pickup and delivery. Call (901) 207-1147 to order.

Ghost River — Curbside pickup and delivery. One case minimum on deliveries and you must live inside Memphis city limits. Call (901) 661-4976 to order.

Wiseacre — Curbside pickup and delivery. One case minimum for deliveries and only for addresses within a 10-mile radius of the brewery. Order form at wiseacrebrew.com.

Crosstown — Curbside pickup and delivery. One case minimum for deliveries with a $5 delivery fee. Order at crosstownbeer.com

High Cotton — Stopped all pickup and delivery services Monday, April 6th. “We feel this is in the best interest of our community and employees,” reads a statement from the brewery. Cans and growlers are still available in stores and restaurants.

Memphis Made — Curbside pickup. Call (901) 207-5343 to order.— Toby Sells

The Brooklyn Bridge Restaurant

The Brooklyn Bridge has been an East Memphis fixture since 1985 and, since 1987, has operated in the Orleans Place Shopping Center near the intersection of Poplar and Kirby Parkway. It was the creation of Vincent and Bridgette Correale, first-generation Italian Americans who came to Memphis from — where else? — Brooklyn. The place is still family-run, with the general manager and head chef being Giorgio Correale, son of the founders.

The entire menu, which runs from New York-style pizza to such specialties as chicken piccata, lasagna Amalfitano, portobello mushroom ravioli with shrimp, and mussels plates, is available for takeout, as well as delivery through the Postmates service. A Family Dinners menu, with numerous condiments and options, has been especially created for the stay-at-home circumstances of today. Hours are 4 to 8 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, and 4 to 9 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. Bottles of wine are 50 percent off (with house wines and Cellar Reserve excepted).

Phone lines are open each day at 4 p.m., and orders may be placed at 901-755-7413. The management promises that anyone leaving a message will be called back. — Jackson Baker

1779 Kirby Parkway, Ste. 5, (901) 755-7413, brooklynbridgeitalian.com

Mortimer’s

Mortimer’s is upgrading its service during the coronavirus emergency, offering delivery, in addition to its existing curbside takeout service. East Memphis, in particular, is considered a major part of the restaurant’s bailiwick.

But owner/operator Christopher Jamieson, who lives in Germantown, is doing the best he can to make available the restaurant’s goodies (including growlers, wine, and takeout cocktails) on as wide a geographic basis as he can manage, doing many of the deliveries himself.

Alas, the establishment’s oyster specials, famously available on Tuesday and Saturday nights, are not on the takeout or delivery menu, but everything else is — including copies of the current Flyer issues (Mortimer’s being one of our regular pickup points). Not to mention the two rolls of toilet paper, still a scarce item, that go with all to-go orders.

The Jamieson family has long been in the restaurant business and operated the legendary (and now closed) Knickerbocker’s on Poplar for many years. Christopher Jamieson, the proprietor at Mortimer’s since 2013, says business has been better than he had first expected when the orders came down to close restaurants for on-site service. “The community has been very supportive,” he says. — JB

590 N. Perkins, (901) 761-9321, mortimersrestaurant.net

Chard from Rose Creek

Direct from Farmers

While sheltering in place, we’re all cooking more than ever, but how to get the raw materials for your cuisine? Many feel the safest option is to eliminate as much of the supply chain as possible and take deliveries directly from local farms.

Randy Alexander of Tubby Creek Farm says it makes a lot of sense to take advantage of their home-delivered produce, purely from the standpoint of hygiene. They ensure that all harvesters wash their hands and wear masks. From there, as he puts it, “The food goes directly from our field to the consumer, instead of to a warehouse chain, and then a grocery store, and through a bunch of people before it gets bought.”

Ray Tyler, of Rose Creek Farm, points out another advantage of home-delivered local produce. “Right now is when people need to be taking care of their immune systems more than ever,” he says. “Local, nutrient-dense food is not a silver bullet, but it’s a good idea to eat more of it.”

As fate would have it, Rose Creek was already ramping up its online ordering in recent years, with a small fee for home delivery. But a sense of community service caused Tyler and his wife Ashley to reconsider that. “We really wanted to do our part in making this time a little easier,” he says. “So we started offering free delivery to everybody in Corinth [Mississippi], Selmer, Henderson, Jackson, Germantown, Collierville, and Memphis.”

Luckily, the shut-in policy took hold just as farms were rolling out their spring crops. “We’re hitting our peak,” says Tyler, who notes that they now are flush with carrots, scallions, spring greens, spinach, lettuce, herbs, radishes, arugula, and beets.

Meanwhile, Tubby Creek begins making their weekly deliveries of pre-sold subscriptions this Wednesday, even as they sell surplus crops via individual online orders. Rose Creek is mostly taking the latter approach. “Our customer base has increased 100 percent,” says Tyler. “Especially in Memphis. So this has relaunched this new local food resurgency. I think people realize that in times like this, it’s a really good idea to know your local farmer.” — AG

Tubby Creek, tubbycreekfarm.com

Rose Creek, rosecreekfarmstore.com

Uncle Lou’s Fried Chicken

Uncle Lou’s Fried Chicken in Whitehaven, known for its crispy chicken breast dipped in sweet and spicy sauces and honey butter biscuits, closed its dining room a day before it was mandated by Memphis Mayor Jim Strickland.

Louis “Uncle Lou” Martin, the owner of Uncle Lou’s, says since then it’s been a “weird time,” but the restaurant is working to adapt. “We are struggling along,” he says. “But I’m fortunate we’re still open.”

Apart from frying chicken to perfection, Martin says his priority has been keeping his employees and customers healthy. Last week, he says he constructed and installed a sneeze guard at the restaurant’s counter. Additionally, he says, “We’ve been sanitizing like crazy. I have one guy whose only responsibility is keeping the restaurant clean.”

The restaurant is offering carryout and delivery through apps like Grubhub and UberEats. He’s been encouraging customers to make call-in orders to minimize social gatherings in and around the restaurant.

Martin says he has been in the food business since he was a junior in high school, and in the past few weeks he’s been challenged more than he has in nearly 45 years. Sales have dropped, and Martin says the restaurant isn’t making any money, but “We are making enough to pay staff and pay most of the bills.” Martin recently took a salary cut in order to keep all of his staff employed.

Uncle Lou’s serves a lot of travelers, he says. And the restaurant’s biggest money-maker has always been from people dining in. “First and foremost, I want to make it through this,” Martin says. “And I want my staff to make it through this with good health. When it’s over, I might have to reassess and make some changes. But we have to survive this first.” — Maya Smith

3633 Millbranch, (901) 332-2367, unclelousfriedchicken.com

Buster’s Liquors & Wines

Considering what a drastic change it was going from in-store to curbside sales at Buster’s Liquors & Wines, president and co-owner Josh Hammond is satisfied with how it’s going. “We shifted to just online sales, which we did for our employee safety and hopefully send a message to the community,” he says. “It’s been sort of amazing that we’ve been able to do the curbside pickup all reliant on our eCommerce system that we already had in place.”

Just before Buster’s made the switch, they were slammed almost like holiday business. “We saw significant increase there, but it was completely hectic and stressful seeing this many people in the stores,” Hammond says. “It was just too difficult to maintain. We saw a 30 percent drop-off the first week as we adjusted, and that was just from normal business. And then we saw a 15 percent increase the following week. This third week, things were just right in line with last year. So we’ve kept up.”

Jon W. Sparks

A big challenge has been compliance with coronavirus standards. “Getting masks for our employees has been an incredible task. They were ordered but got delayed. But I had a customer who gave us 200 of them.”

After ordering from the website, you get a confirmation and then later a notice that it’s ready for pickup. Parking spots are designated, and they have security directing traffic. The ordering feature is cut off at 5 p.m. so they can fill all the orders for that day. They tried delivery, but the influx of orders overwhelmed what they could do. They’re working on fixing that. — Jon W. Sparks

191 S. Highland, (901) 458-0929, bustersliquors.com

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Grind-N-Shine: Ghost River Brewing’s New Eye-Opener

Ghost River Brewing has always produced great beers that are exemplars of a certain style. But for a seasonal release they wanted to think a little outside the box — or can. To do that, they looked inward to Memphis as inspiration for their Grind-N-Shine Coffee Cream Ale.

“Grind-N-Shine is not our first coffee beer,” says Suzanne Feinstone, Ghost River’s director of marketing. “Ugly Magic was our first collaboration with Ugly Mug.” And while dark beer and coffee are a natural fit, Ghost River’s clever twist on the style was to make a coffee beer with a cream ale, a thoroughly American style that started in the middle of last century. The beer has aptly been described as “the bastard child of English ale and German lager.” That’s as accurate a description as I know. My only issue with it is that I didn’t come up with it first.

Courtesy Baby Grand Instagram (@bbygrnd)

First available in the brewery’s tap room in 2016, Grind-N-Shine is a light-bodied cream ale flavored with roasted coffee beans, then a little vanilla to lighten the whole thing up. It’s a malty beer that, like a lot of cream ales, floats on the palate. This one, however, does so without losing the deep, roasted flavors. It’s a good beer for malt lovers and has returned to the tap room seasonally — and is now also available around town in cans.

Now … about those cans.

Breaking from its usual branded-label design for its package bottles, Ghost River partnered with local artist Quantavious “Toonky” Worship, whose murals can be seen around the city on walls, trucks, and T-shirts. His colorful work, inspired by graffiti artists, is vibrant and cartoonish and seemingly alive.

The beer was named for the “grind” of late nights and the “shine” of the next morning, and both are captured in Toonky’s exaggerated bloodshot eye that stares back at you from the can. “The ‘eye’ on the Grind-N-Shine label is a fun play with many levels of meaning,” Feinstone says. “Toonky’s murals are a part of the city’s backdrop, and his GNS can art design just feels like Memphis.”

When the first Grind-N-Shine keg was tapped this season in late February, Toonky’s work was on display in the taproom. And that alone says something about Memphis, that one of our local art shows is held in a local brewery. I don’t know what it says, exactly, but it can’t be a bad thing.

Just because you can buy six-packs of Toonky’s art around town, though, doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t drop in for a pint in Ghost River’s taproom down on South Main. Or, should I say “South Mane”? Outside is Toonky’s GNS “Eye,” and inside it is all raw brick and exposed beams and industrial this and that. In short, a perfect watering hole.

As the original Memphis craft brewer, Ghost River was looking for a distinctly Memphis vibe, both on the can and in the glass. I think they hit the nail on the head here. The brilliance of a light-bodied but deep-flavored coffee beer is a solid fit. Like a thinking adult’s Red Bull and vodka.

The friendly bartender down at the taproom called the pint a “breakfast beer.” My personal favorite is that term those pedantic Germans use, a Muntermacher, which means something like an “eye-opener.” That these Ghost River folks run such a tight operation in a culture that thinks drinking a beer at 8:30 a.m. before heading into the office is a perfectly reasonable thing to do makes me wonder if our American “no drinking until after work” dictum may be using the wrong end of the stick.

Categories
Letter From The Editor Opinion

Me and Beer

I cannot write about Donald Trump again this week. I just can’t. It’s beyond madness, beyond commentary, at this point. We are careening toward a come-to-Jesus moment in this country like none in our history, and it won’t be pretty.

So I’ll write about beer.

That’s right, beer. Our cover story is about beer, and I have a long history with beer, and I think that recounting it will prove instructive for all these craft-beery young ‘uns who take for granted their fancy Kölsches and porters and Icelandic ales and such.

It wasn’t always like this, kids. (And get off my lawn!) There didn’t used to be craft breweries on every corner, giving you beer options that rival Baskin-Robbins. Bars didn’t used to have 47 beers on tap. Waiters didn’t offer you a beer menu.

When I was a young man in Missouri, we drank Budweiser, the damn King of Beers, made from the finest rice ever grown. It was all we knew, really. Oh sure, we also drank Miller, “The Champagne of Bottled Beers,” but beer options were few, and they all tasted alike, anyway. Except for Stag. Stag really sucked.

While in college, we would sometimes drive to Kansas City and come back with cases of an exotic brew from the West called Coors, which was unavailable east of the Missouri border. We thought Coors was sophisticated and sexy, until we realized it had an alcohol content of 3.2, which meant you got bloated before you could get drunk — a real problem for college students.

Then in the 1980s, I took a job in Pittsburgh, and my beer world opened up. They made beer in Pennsylvania, lots of it: Straub, Rolling Rock, Stoney’s, Yuengling, and Iron City, which makes terrible beer. In fact, IC Light may be the single worst beer ever made. (Except for Stag. Stag really sucked.) Iron City’s claim to fame was their excellent commemorative cans with images of the Steelers, Pirates, and Penguins, which probably kept them in business.

While in Pittsburgh, I also discovered many excellent Canadian beers — Molson, Labatt, Moosehead — which are best consumed while camping with manly friends in the wilderness and saying “Good beer, eh?” to each other after each sip.

Then, in 1994, I moved to Memphis, which was then the worst beer city in America. Actually, Tennessee was the worst beer state in America; Memphis was no different from Nashville or Knoxville. The American beer lobby (Big Beer) had gotten the legislature to gerrymander state regulations to outlaw the selling or serving of beer that came in containers measured in liters rather than gallons, thereby eliminating foreign beers. The only beers you could buy in Memphis at that time were made by the American corporate big boys. I was back in the land of Bud and Miller. Sad! Very unfair!

Shortly after I moved here, I was invited to a party where we were asked to bring “interesting beers.” To do so, I discovered, you had to go to the Walgreen’s in West Memphis, where the proprietors — seeing an obvious market — had in stock an immense and diverse selection of brews from around the world. It was not an ideal situation. And it wasn’t legal to bring beer back over the bridge, but we risked it. Those were hard times, kids.

A few years later, thanks to the tireless efforts of then-state Senator Steve Cohen, Tennessee’s odious “keg law” was finally overturned, and Guinness and Beck’s and Kirin Ichiban and many other brews from around the world began flowing from the beer taps of Memphis. It was like the Berlin Wall had fallen. Now, it all seems like a bad dream, a lifetime ago. Memphis breweries are crafting creative and dynamic brews of all kinds — lagers, ales, ciders, pilsners, porters, you name it. We’re now living in brewtopia, bro. Still, I think it’s only fitting that acknowledgement be given to those who came before — the pioneers of beer. So the next time you’re enjoying that frosty RockBone on the deck of your favorite pub, I simply ask that you lift a glass in their honor.

Or just buy me a cold one.

Categories
Cover Feature News

King of (Memphis) Beer!

Ghost River Gold is the best beer in Memphis, according to the nearly 1,500 voters in The Memphis Flyer & Aldo’s Beer Bracket Challenge.

The Golden Ale itself is light, delicate even, but the beer brand is tough and trusty and survived the early days as a pioneer in the Memphis craft beer wilderness.

Long before there were craft breweries everywhere, Ghost River went solo, a scrappy Memphis beer taking on the national brands. Ghost River persevered, pumping oceans of what was originally called Ghost River Golden Ale into the market and, judging from the voting, into the hearts of a legion of fans. 

“Overjoyed,” was how Ghost River’s head brewer Jimmy Randall described his feeling on hearing about Gold’s win. “I’m just so grateful for the continuing support we’ve received from our hometown.” 

Justin Fox Burks

Memphis did, indeed, give Ghost River a lot of love during our week of voting. It was a 16-beer bracket, featuring brews from all four local breweries: Memphis Made, Wiseacre, High Cotton, and Ghost River. Two Ghost River beers — Gold and Grindhouse — made it to the final round. Gold won by only a few votes, but Ghost River was the winner, either way. 

The Flyer‘s Beer Bracket Challenge was broken up into four categories — light beer, dark beer, IPAs, and seasonals. We asked our breweries what beers they wanted to represent them in those categories. We knew, though, that a Kölsch couldn’t (and shouldn’t) compete head to head with a different style, like a pilsner. So, to ensure some kind of objectivity, I donned a blindfold and picked the match-ups out of my red, Bass Pro drinking hat at Aldo’s Pizza Pies Downtown on Facebook Live. 

With the bracket set, our voters did the rest. Hundreds of votes were cast during each round, for a final total of about 1,500 individual voters.        

Yes, we know we’re not the first to “bracket-ize” beers. The idea has been floated in other alt weeklies around the country. Heck, the Memphis Craft Beer blog ran Malt Madness in 2015. Consider our hats tipped all around. 

Running such a bracket is not without controversy. Beer styles are very different. Flavor choices — the brewing arts in general — are subjective. Our bracket was “just a popularity contest,” we were told. To which we say, hell yes! At its heart, that’s exactly what this was. Take it for what it is: fun.  

Thanks to this story, I got to get reacquainted with our local breweries. Except for Ghost River, they all opened for business in 2013, and after four years, they’re all still dedicated to making the best beer they can. 

But the craft beer boom is continuing. Look for one, possibly two, new breweries to pop up this year. Meddlesome Brewing, in Cordova, is planning to open this spring or summer. Crosstown Brewing pulled a $1.2 million building permit last week for its new building at (you guessed it) Crosstown Concourse.

Meanwhile, here’s a little fresh-brewed news on our breweries.  

Wiseacre Brewing: The Tale of Tiny Bomb

Davin Bartosch was making coffee. Kellan, Davin’s brother and business partner, was chatting up The Memphis Flyer reporter in the Wiseacre break room. Davin, however, was making coffee with a loving focus that afforded no bandwidth for small talk until that coffee was made. If it’s anything like their beers, I thought, that’s going to be some damn good coffee.  

Employees buzzed around the brewery, watching complicated brewing apparatus, answering phones, filing paperwork, or minding the bar. Kellan said the company now has about 20 full-time employees. They’re characters, every one, he said, but also hard workers who “really helped build this.”

The brothers long dreamed of opening a brewery and doing it in Memphis. It was realized in 2013, and they’ve gone full-steam ever since. Wiseacre is a formidable force in Memphis craft beer, and their beers are now sold in Tennessee, Arkansas, Mississippi, Louisiana, Illinois, and Pennsylvania. But their success has led to a happy problem: They’ve run out of room to make more beer. 

“We can’t put any more tanks in the building,” Kellan said. “So, we’ve heard from people in Alabama, Georgia, Ohio, California, Florida — places that we could really pursue — but we currently can’t do anything else in our building in terms of production.”

Wiseacre is still mulling a move to expand their operation to the Mid-South Coliseum, but the Bartosches said no decision on that has been made. But, Kellan said, they’re happy as things are now. They love focusing on Memphis and making tons of Tiny Bomb, Ananda (the two best-selling Tennessee-made beers in the state, Kellan said), and Gotta Get Up to Get Down. 

Beer names that spring from Wiseacre are routinely unusual: Men, Not Machines, Azazel, Neon Brown, and Unicornicopia. Even Adjective Animal is a meta-play on beer-naming conventions. 

“I think our branding strategy is to either be clever or stupid, in the Beavis and Butthead kind of way, where it’s funny because it’s so dumb,” Kellan said. 

But the boys were clever when it came to naming Tiny Bomb, which seems like the most basic, everyday, poundable drinker. But it’s more complicated than that (really). 

Davin dreamed up and developed Tiny Bomb, a pilsner, years before Wiseacre opened. It came from his frustration with people “always drinking Bud Light.” “They’d say it was low in calories, so they could drink many of them at a time,” Davin said. “So, I thought, I’m going to find a way to satisfy everybody. So, tiny alcohol, tiny calories, flavor bomb.”

Tiny Bomb is suitable for slamming on a hot day, Davin agreed, but, being a light style, it is also delicate and a challenge to brew.

Kellan thought Davin was joking when he said he wanted to brew a pilsner for Wiseacre. The style was unfashionable at the time. But Davin stuck to Tiny Bomb, and now pilsners are en vogue. 

“(Davin) knew it a decade ago, and we’re just now getting it,” Kellan said. “(Vincent) van Gogh died before people liked his art. Thankfully, Davin is still alive to see people enjoy Tiny Bomb.”

Toby Sells

High Cotton’s Ross Avery (left) and Ryan Staggs

High Cotton: A Scottish Shocker

Ryan Staggs is flummoxed, happily flummoxed. 

Scottish Ale, a beer he developed in his garage, is High Cotton Brewing’s best-selling beer. But he doesn’t know why. 

“It’s crazy!” Staggs said. “Who would have thought that a dark beer like that would have been (so successful).”

When High Cotton opened in 2013 in the Edge neighborhood, Staggs’ Scottish Ale was the only recipe all three brewery owners decided was ready to go without further tweaking. 

“It was money from the get-go,” said co-owner Ross Avery. 

Staggs said Scottish is easy to drink but a challenge to “make it, ferment it, and take care of it.” He says the style is “not really exotic” and “super traditional.” There’s no crazy yeast strain needed and no crazy ingredients. 

“There’s no Scottish ales with mango or spruce tips,” Staggs joked. 

But the style demands a brew done “exactly right,” or “the flaws come through pretty quickly,” Staggs said. He tips his hat to the macro brewers (Bud, Miller, and Coors) for making “a lager that at least tastes consistent. Maybe it’s not good, but it tastes consistent. That’s a feat in itself.”

The process produces a beer with a clean finish, Staggs said, “But it’s also a robust enough style where it’s still kind of rich, and caramely; it’s toffee, it’s toasty, and slightly roasty. I know that — sorry [Beer Judge Certification Program] — people are like, Scottish ales aren’t roasty! But roasted barley is what lends that flavor and what people perceive as roasty, and that is absolutely traditional in the brewing process.”

Staggs brewed at home for about five years before helping to found High Cotton. His training and experience as a civil engineer launched his respect for “the nerdy science behind brewing beer.” Copious notes and numerous iterations helped him refine the recipe, and it has paid off. 

“What we drink today was kind of the final result of that [research and development] at my house,” Staggs said. 

Having a brewery, a taproom, and beers for sale in Kroger are dreams come true for Staggs. But he said he couldn’t have imagined it would have been his Scottish that won the day. 

“It’s sort of a gateway to craft beer for Memphians,” said Avery. “They had experience [with craft beer] with Ghost River Golden. So, we weren’t going to make another golden [ale]. And now it’s become our best seller.”

Avery said, “The summer before last, the temperature really started spiking up. I thought, a dark beer in the summertime? And yet sales remained steady. All I could imagine were people sitting in dark bars where it was cold.”

High Cotton recently expanded its seating capacity with a back bar that has huge windows looking into the brew house. Staggs said it’s always available during taproom hours and for private events. He said the company is experimenting with some new beers and is planning to be in new cans soon. 

Toby Sells

Memphis Made’s Andy Ashby (left) and Drew Barton

Memphis Made: A Fireside Mystery

Bombers on a bottling line. That was the first thing I noticed on a visit to Memphis Made last week. 
“Is that a temporary bottling line?” I asked, pointing at the machine. 

“I mean, it’s temporary, as in it will run until we break it,” said Drew Barton, co-founder and head brewer at Memphis Made. 

Memphis Made is the only Big Four Memphis brewery without a regularly available packaged product in local stores. They have done specialty bombers (750 milliliter bottles), and they canned up their Gonerfest IPA last year in a one-off deal. But the permanent bottling line will make packaged sales a more permanent fixture.

Those bottled beers will be exclusively high-gravity, Barton said. The first will be Soulless Ginger, a take on a brewery cult favorite, Soulful Ginger. Barton described Soulless Ginger as “a little more alcohol, a little more ginger, and way less soul.”

Barton said to look for the new Ginger soon in growler shops, package stores, some convenience stores, and — while he couldn’t say the names of them, specifically — some “grocery stores.”

“It’ll be small-batch stuff,” said co-founder Andy Ashby. “So, it’s not going to be everywhere all the time. We’re north of 150 accounts in Shelby County. Basically, some of the places we’re at now are going have it, including some grocery stores.”

Memphis Made opened in 2013’s Great Craft Beer Awakening. Nearly a year later, the company opened its Cooper-Young taproom. Brewing new beers and hosting tons of taproom events has made life busy for Ashby, Barton, and Memphis Made’s small cadre of employees.

“We’re tired, but we’re happy,” Barton said. “We threw out the business plan a long time ago.”

Memphis Made, too, is known for its beer names that range from inside jokes to super-Memphis-y public scandals. (See: RockBone IPA.) The name Fireside, for its amber ale, comes with permission from a North Carolina brewery already using the name. The non-mystery about the beer is that Barton and Ashby just liked the name. The real Fireside mystery is how well it sells. 

“I’m baffled by it,” Barton said. 

Ashby said, “It’s different, but it’s accessible. Every brewery out there has an IPA. But a nice, malty amber that is drinkable? People just really tend to gravitate toward it.”

Memphis Made was planned as a seasonal brewery, aimed at changing its beers every few months and never keeping on any beers year-round. Fireside began its life as a fall seasonal, Ashby said. When it left the taps, “I’d get lambasted,” Ashby said, by Fireside fans worried that they wouldn’t see their Memphis Made stand-by for another year. 

So, they brought it on full-time. Ashby said he didn’t worry about its success in the spring but certainly did in the Memphis summertime.

“Is this amber going to sell when it’s 110 degrees outside?” Ashby wondered. “It didn’t miss a beat. It’s pretty crazy. I didn’t see that one coming, either.”

Ghost River:
A Solid-Gold Success Story

Everything has changed at Ghost River, and also nothing has changed at all.

This New Year’s Eve will mark the 10th anniversary of Ghost River’s first brew. When they celebrate, they’ll have new branding, some new beer names, and a brand new taproom.   

Much of this was done to simply refresh the brand, to match Ghost River to what was happening in the craft beer world around it. But there’s one thing that will be almost exactly the same — the beer. Randall said none of the recipes have changed, really, and neither has its starting lineup of beers, though Grindhouse has been added.   

For years, Ghost River was the only local choice for locally made beers, except for the taps at Boscos. (Both companies are owned by the same parent company.) Back then, you’d ask a bartender what was local, and you wouldn’t hear brewery names, you’d hear “1887,” or “the (Riverbank) Red,” or, mostly, you’d hear “Golden.” You knew this all meant different Ghost River styles. At the grocery store, beer fans’ eyes were trained to find that slightly green label with the big, spooky-looking cypress tree.  

“Losing that tree made me cry,” said Ghost River owner Jerry Feinstone, speaking about the brewery’s recent redesigned branding. 

“You and a lot of other people,” said the company marketing vice president Suzanne Williamson.

“But I think it’s okay,” Feinstone said. “We may end up with some retro products one day.”

The old cypress tree logo was a brand icon, but it was also a direct link to a part of Ghost River’s conservation mission. The brewery uses water from the Memphis Sand aquifer (as all Memphis breweries do). To give back, Ghost River donates $1 from every barrel of beer they sell to the Wolf River Conservancy.   

Last year, that old, haunted cypress tree logo was replaced by a lantern, which now adorns the company’s bottles, tap handles, and the neon sign hanging outside the company’s South Main taproom. 

“As [The Memphis Flyer and Aldo’s Beer Bracket Challenge] showed — being the first — the leader always carries the lantern,” Feinstone said. 

I asked Feinstone where the name “Gold” came from for his golden ale.

“It’s just a color,” he said, laughing. “It’s a style. I guess if you’re the only game in town, you have all the names available to you. We weren’t smart enough to think of something fancy for Golden Ale.”

But a lot of thought went into brewing Golden Ale back in the day.  

“Being the first, we were the introductory to craft for Memphis palates,” said Williamson. “We wanted to, maybe, set the Golden next to a major brand that wasn’t necessarily craft. We’d say, you’re drinking this, how about trying this?”

While craft has taken off, Gold hasn’t changed (except for the name). Randall said the recipe has gone largely untouched over the years. While it’s still a gateway beer for new craft drinkers, it’s become a trusty go-to beer for seasoned consumers. 

Gold itself is an American blonde ale, Randall said. When it comes to flavor, consider Gold a balanced Goldilocks. 

“It has very soft malt flavors, enough hops to kind of balance the profile out,” Randall said. “It doesn’t come across as hoppy or bitter. It doesn’t come across as malty.”

Feinstone said Gold’s win on the Beer Bracket Challenge is a “real good feeling.” Getting there was done one beer at a time.

“We just have to blame it on people going out and trying beers and saying, ‘This fits my palate. I’ll have another.'”

Categories
Cover Feature News

Beer Run!

Patios are blossoming all over town. It’s a sure sign that Memphians are tired of winter’s cooped-up spaces, heavy clothes, not to mention those sturdy, stout, comforting winter beers.

Okay, so maybe your first spring thought isn’t: “What new beers are out there?” But it’s one of mine. Beer changes with the seasons, and Memphis has five solid craft breweries — Boscos, Wiseacre, High Cotton, Memphis Made, and Ghost River. That means there’s now an ocean of new, locally made beer out there. Ever heard someone argue about the best local barbecue? Of course you have. If you haven’t heard someone argue best local brewery yet, you will soon.

I gathered The Memphis Flyer staff Friday to sample this spring’s offerings of (mostly) local beers. This year’s crew included editor Bruce VanWyngarden (BV), Justin Rushing (JR), Chris McCoy (CM), Eileen Townsend (ET), Joshua Cannon (JC), Jackson Baker (JB), Shara Clark (SC), Bianca Phillips (BP), Chris Shaw (CS), Chris Davis (CD), managing editor Susan Ellis (SE), and Kendrea Collins (KC).

Professional tasters, (from left) Adam Steele, Dr. Richard Heath, and Nick Vincent

I also brought together three expert beer tasters: Richard Heath (RH), president of Bluff City Brewers & Connoisseurs (BCBC), and BCBC members Adam Steele (AS), a certified beer judge, and award-winning home brewer Nick Vincent (NV).

Wiseacre founders Kellan and Davin Bartosch expertly guided us in our tasting journey. Kellan urged us to appreciate (rather than judge) beers, even if it’s a style we don’t like. “There are no bad beers,” he said.

Big thanks to the owners and staff at Celtic Crossing for letting us take over their killer patio, and protecting us from the pattering rain. Sláinte, and may the road rise to meet you all this St. Patrick’s Day. — Toby Sells

Drew Barton, co-owner and brewer at Memphis Made Brewing

MEMPHIS MADE

Greenswarden Saison Here’s what they say: At first glance, the hazy golden copper of this ale makes it appear calm and reserved. But the citrus punch will make you want to get up and yell, GET OFF OUR LAWN!!!

Here’s what we say:

This citrusy beer packs a flavorful first punch but mellows out after a few sips. Drink one (or three), then hitch a ride to the Greensward and park your butt (definitely not your car) there for a spring picnic. — SC

If a beer can be “refreshing,” this is it. Smooth but sprightly. — BV

Wait for the citrus to sneak in — it’ll knock you on your ass. Memphis Made concocted the perfect beverage to share with friends while you protest parking in the Greensward. — JC

This brew has a rich, golden hue that promises a richer flavor than it delivers. At least this version lacks the aggressive aromatics that some saisons offer. — CM

This is a hoppy, full-bodied saison, but it doesn’t leave that bitter floral aftertaste. It’d be the perfect beer to pack for a picnic on the Greensward. Oh wait? Nevermind, there are cars parked on the Greensward! Lucky for you, this beer would taste just as good on your front porch. — BP

Smooth and savory with a nice citrus flavor. No bite or bitter aftertaste. — JR

Light and fruity, with a healthy serving of that saison yeast character, with just a hint of citrus hop flavor behind it. — NV

An aggressive, “Americanized” version of the Belgian classic. Spicy and peppery yeast phenolics make way for a slight toasted note, followed by a bitter, citrusy finish. — AS

RockBone IPA — What they say: A heavy hand of Herkules hops gives this IPA a real bang, while the Mosaic hops do the dirty work and ooze out flavors of passion fruit and berries.

What we say:

Ok, this one really smells like urine. Thank you for everything you do, precious RockBone. Store up your treasures in heaven. — CS

This IPA stands tall in a flaccid field. Where some IPAs stuff the hops to create a bulging taste profile, RockBone goes deep, hitting the pleasure centers with practiced stimulation. — CM

Tastes like good porn. Hoppy but well-balanced, and you don’t get that overpowering floral aftertaste.  – BP

A healthy dose of hops keeps this stiff IPA bitter yet deliciously fruity, and will stimulate even the most flaccid of taste buds. —NV

Compared to my last RockBone experience, this iteration has a sharper, more well-defined hop flavor, reminiscent of citrus and cherries.The finish is dry, and the bitterness doesn’t linger; an exceptionally drinkable IPA. — AS

HIGH COTTON

ESB — What they say: Medium-high to medium bitterness with supporting malt flavors evident. Normally has a moderately low to somewhat strong caramelly malt sweetness. Hop flavor moderate.

What we say:

The “ESB” (Extra Special Bitter) in the name may fool you: This beer isn’t really bitter at all, though perhaps it is “extra special.” Smooth and light and would be a great go-to for less adventurous drinkers. — SC

A light but satisfying ESB, not much going on here in terms of hops. I always thought ESB stood for Extremely Shitty Beer. I now realize I’ve been living a lie. — CS

Hoppy but calm. A journeyman taste (and that’s no insult). — JB
It tastes like biscuits. It’s totally acceptable to drink this for breakfast, right? — BP

Light, with hints of biscuit malts and a lingering sweetness that’s pleasant. Sure to appeal to many palates with its conservative flavor. — NV

A balancing act of floral, earthy English hops, fruity yeast, and nutty malt character. Ever-so-slightly buttery, which is common in English-style beers. Thinking of introducing your Michelob Ultra-drinking dad to craft beer? Start here. — AS

Red Ale — What they say: The unique grain bill lends the beer to an easy-drinking malty body, with no lack of Perle hops to provide earthiness and subtle spice.

What we say:

I call this one “Old Reliable” because it’s always on target. A good drinking beer for any occasion. — BV

High Cotton has another hit on its hands, starting with the substantial mouth feel, enabled by the relatively low carbonation. The sign of careful craftsmanship that is not chasing trends. — CM

Very light and refreshing. Mild flavor. Good beer! — JR

Dark copper in color, this beer is rich with malty and sweet flavors, low in hops, and is a tasty alternative to yeasty/hoppy spring offerings. —NV

Slight caramel sweetness up front, but finishes dry and clean. This one would serve well as an inoffensive introduction to craft beer that you could drink a whole bunch of. — AS

Kellan Bartosch (upper), owners of Wiseacre Brewing

WISEACRE

Adjective Animal Double IPA — What they say: This is as hop-forward as it gets. Sticky, resinous, orange peel, pine, and grapefruit aromas shall waft forth.

What we say:

Surprisingly, this double IPA isn’t as hoppy as one might expect. It’s fruity, floral, and way easier to drink than other hop-forward beers. 10 out of 10. — SC

A big, bouncy, perky brew that packs an 8.6 alcohol punch. Careful with this one, cowboy. — BV

Apparently a hop called Nugzilla is used in making this beer. I feel like Muck Sticky is super bummed he can’t name his next album that now. Or maybe he can? — CS

Wiseacre’s Adjective Animal Double IPA made me take back every comparison to pissed-on lemons I’ve made about IPAs. This beer is hoppy as hell, but it rubs you the right way. — JC

It has a complex flavor profile, balancing all of the elements perfectly. There are hoppy notes you expect, but it’s not trying to slap you in the face with it. — CM

Smooth with delicate hints of floral hops and citrus, and spiciness adds balance. Also, the name is the buzzy bee’s knee. Or maybe it’s the grumpy cat’s pajamas.  (You see what I did there? Don’t even get me started with dreaming up adjectives for animals. I could go all day.) — BP

Good sipping beer, great taste. Nice change-up from your typical domestic or import. — JR

What can I say — hops, hops, hops! Full of aroma, flavor, and bitterness, wreaking havoc on your palate with a piercing yet smooth hop bitterness that easily masks its hefty alcohol content. — NV

Huge resinous pine, citrus, and tropical notes with a slightly sweet malt undertone that’s hard to describe. Smooth, clean, yet intense bitterness. Enough to keep you interested until the last sip. — AS

Familie Freund: Dusseldorf Altbier — What they say: German, copper-colored ale with rich, toasty malts (smells like really toasted bread with a touch of honey on it) balanced with a firm bitter backbone.

What we say:
Lots of pop. Lots of flavor. Like that crazy uncle who shows up for Thanksgiving every couple years. — BV

Bitter and malty at the same time, kind of tastes like those Haribo candy Coke bottle things. — CS

It starts sharp on the tongue, defined by its Champagne-like effervescence, but the flavor opens up quickly, revealing a pleasing hoppy note. — CM

Wiseacre is known for upping the hops in just about every style, and this bitter, malty brew is, indeed, hoppy. But I don’t find the hops as off-putting as I do in some of their beers. It seems more balanced, and has a nice mouthfeel. (Did I seriously just say “mouthfeel”?) — BP

Rich with malty, yeasty lager character, this copper-colored beer is a refreshing choice for a those who want a richer, fuller spring beer experience. — NV

Malty aroma and flavor reminiscent of bread dough, grapes, toast, and caramel. Not sweet, though — the finish is nice and dry. Assertively bittered to provide balance and drinkability. Damn near perfect. — AS

Quiet Man Irish Stout — What they say: The beer packs a roasty punch yet remains light on its feet. A carbonated version of the classic Irish style will leave you wanting to go back in the ring for another round.

What we say:

The wise guys from Wiseacre told us that comparing different beers is a bit like comparing burgers to tacos. My question is: Why is this cheeseburger not a taco? Just kidding. This is a great cheeseburger. — SC

Surprisingly flat and watery despite its heavy look. A late, somewhat bitter aftertaste . — JB

Perhaps the only remnant of my Irish heritage is that I love stouts. Also, I’m stubborn and often belligerent. But back to the stouts. This is a very good one, even if it doesn’t have the giant head you might be used to from pulling Guinness taps. — CM

Much hoppier than I’d expect from an Irish stout, but it’s drinkable. It has that nice soy sauce aftertaste that I love in a good stout, but the heavy hops would mean I’d probably just drink one and switch to a more classic stout. — BP

This beer is light and drinkable, yet still hits the mark with its subtle roasted flavors. A great example of the style. — NV

A pleasant, roasted, coffee-like aroma with some mild fruity yeast character. Prickly carbonation and thin-bodied. Think Guinness, except fresher and more flavorful. — AS

Flyer staff drinking, er, “working” hard so you don’t have to!

BOSCOS

Hop God — What they say: In this version of it, the more hops the better. We took fresh hops and some new varieties we’ve never used in here before — Summit and Horizon. It’s actually going to have the hop profile behind it and is not as malty.

What we say:
Praise the Lord and pass the beer. And hop to it. — BV

Smells like pee, but tastes way better, I guess. I’m not saying I’ve ever drank pee. I’ve never drank pee. Damn. This isn’t going well. Amazing beer. — CS

Smooth, mellow, vaguely sweet, large in its suggestions. — JB

Least favorite beer of the tasting. Overly flavorful to the point where it’s sour. Like drinking a beer out of a marathon runner’s tube sock. — JR

I was not a fan of this beer and have tasted better versions of it in the past. — NV

Hello, grapefruit! Moderately bitter with a clean-ish finish and just enough malt backbone for balance. — AS

Oatmeal Stout — What they say: Obviously, we brewed this for St. Patrick’s Day. Pretty Dry. Easy to drink.

What we say:

Some may argue that darker beers are better for colder months, but this one’s good year ’round. A roasted malt aroma and flavor makes way for coffee and bittersweet chocolate notes. — SC

Dry enough to slow you down and make you thoughtful. — JB

The beer that eats like a meal! Bosco’s has been brewing some variation on this beer since the brewpub was in Saddle Creek, and they’ve got it dialed in. — CM

Too sweet! I want a beer, not a cupcake! I love oatmeal stouts but not this one. — BP

Full body of roasted and chocolate flavors, but I don’t detect any mint flavors. Overall still very good, but falls a tad short of its description. — NV

A little sweet up front; full-bodied, with a bit of a slick mouthfeel from the oats. The roast malt character is pretty restrained. — AS

Wee Heavy — What they say: This is a maltier amber ale, a stronger amber ale. It’s a darker seasonal. Try to get it on tap when it’s colder outside.

What we say:

This slightly sweet and caramelly brew has a nutty flavor with a hint of smoke. Easier to drink and not as heavy as its dark beer brethren, but rather a wee bit heavy, as the name suggests. — SC

More like “wee disappointing.” I was expecting something more along the lines of a stout, but on first taste, I’m hit by an overpowering sweetness. — BP

Good flavor, but the texture was very filmy and wheaty. — JR

This beer is smells strongly of caramel sweet malts, but has a strange taste to it I’ve never gotten from the style. I’m not a big fan of it. — NV

A full-bodied malt bomb. Tastes of caramel and prunes with some slight roasty notes. This is the right beer to have next to a fire with a steak and some blue cheese. — AS

GHOST RIVER

Barrel-Aged (Midnight) Magic — What they say: We let it spend four months in some oak barrels which had recently been emptied. Along with the dark malty flavors already present in the beer, the months spent in the barrels added some smooth oak and a hint of bourbon aroma we were able to unlock from the wood.

What we say:

I’m a huge fan of the Midnight Magic. Sadly, I’m not a huge fan of bourbon. The barrel aging added such a pungent bourbon aroma and flavor. — SC

A bridge beer — hard and heavy, a prelude to going home or going on to drinking harder stuff. — JB

What normally is a highly drinkable light stout, this version of MM is overpowered heavily by the barrel aging. — NV

Holy bourbon, Batman. Boozy with some vanilla and oak notes from the barrel. This might work if the base beer had been a fuller-bodied, higher-ABV offering. — AS

What’s Good IPA — What they say: The brewhouse staff have created a solid foundation of golden malt flavors upon which they built a glorious monument to the hops.

What we say:

You know the rare occasions when you see beams of sunlight bursting out between cracks in clouds? They’re called crepuscular rays. If those had a flavor, this would be it. — SC

I really liked this one. Drink it if you know What’s Good for ya. — BV

What’s good is this here beer. This has my favorite elements of an IPA. Super bitter with a fruity aftertaste. Definitely getting some of this for the fridge. My favorite so far. — CS

Full of fruity, citrusy aroma, this beer smells as if it’s got actual fruit in it, and its flavor matches that theme. A good choice for those new to IPA. — NV

Categories
Cover Feature News

Spring Brews

These days you can watch the seasons change in your pint glass.

Beers have always changed with the seasons. They do in Memphis now, too, thanks to the maturing craft beer scene here. 

Like the leafers who hit the New Hampshire backroads each fall, you can watch the beer seasons turn here with the changing tap handles at the big draft houses like the Flying Saucer and the Young Avenue Deli. Watch the chalkboard menus change at the Madison Growler Shop and the newly branded Hammer and Ale (formerly The Growler) in Cooper-Young. Heck, even watch the six packs change at just about every gas station in Midtown or downtown.

Just a very few weeks ago, Memphis was a fortress of ice and snow. It was the time for staying warm and inside, brooding over heavy beers — roasty porters and coffee-tasting stouts.

The ice is gone. Flowers are blooming. It’s a time for sitting on a patio with your friends drinking lighter stuff, like crisp and clean pilsners and freshly picked pale ales.

Knowing many of you are heading to patios to do just that, we wanted to give you a guide to what has just come on tap now and some of the handy standbys you can drink all spring and summer long.

Photographs by Justin Fox Burks

J.C. Youngblood and the good people at Central BBQ allowed us to set up our tasting shop at their downtown location on the back patio. There, we unloaded our coolers and dug into more than a dozen local, regional, and national beers.

The caveat here is that no one on the Flyer staff is a beer expert. We’ve seen the business end of our share of pints, but we’re no cicerones. We needed help.

So, we brought in spirit guides for this vision quest. David Smith and Kevin Elbe from Hammer and Ale described the beers we were drinking as did last year’s cover boy, Taylor James, beer manager at the Madison Growler Shop. 

Our tasters this year were Flyer editor Bruce VanWyngarden (BV), staff writers Louis Goggans (LG), Chris Davis (CD), and Toby Sells (TS); senior editor Jackson Baker, former music editor Joe Boone, film and TV editor Chris McCoy (CM), regular Flyer contributor Eileen Townsend (ET), and Inside Memphis Business editor Richard Alley (RA), who made it plain that he doesn’t like IPAs. — TS

Toby Sells

Hefeweizen, High Cotton 

What they say: “Traditional German hefeweizen … citrusy … doesn’t carry the heavy banana flavor as some do.”

I can see drinking a lot of this without thinking very much about it. It doesn’t have much “mouth taste” (I think that’s what I heard the beer men call it?), once you swallow you are no longer thinking about what was going on before you swallowed. They should call it The Amnesiac. Goldfish Brew. — ET

Don’t you want to taste your beer while you’re sitting by the pool? With this hefeweizen, you get the clean, summery, effervescence you want in the summer time. It’s a beer that tastes like a beer should. — CM

This wheat beer is golden in color and is light enough for sipping on the porch. It has an aftertaste, though, that would make me stop at one. Not an all-day beer. — RA

I’m not a hefeweizen guy. But High Cotton turned down that banana-taste volume way down on this one. I could fall in love with a … hefeweizen?

Louis Goggans

Grindhouse Ale, Ghost River

What they say: “A light cream ale designed to be enjoyable to all types of beer enthusiasts. The subtle malt and hop flavors tease your palette and demand another taste.

A round, almost fruity taste, bright and sassy. An open-voweled beer. — Jackson Baker

We got this beer early in the formal tasting. I called it “normal” beer. It has a drinkable consistency and a distinct lack of banana. I came back to this beer once we were set loose on the goods. I’ll drink this on tap. Joe Boone

Tasteless and timid, it is apparently aimed at the Bud Light drinker who is scared of the microbrew. And while it is better than Bud Light, it’s not up to the standards of this great Memphis brewery. — CM

Light and creamy, like drinking a big boy cream soda. I like a cream soda, but the aftertaste of this beer stayed with me like grandma’s hard candy. Another one that would stop me after a single pint. — RA

Suzy B, Southern Prohibition

What they say:  This dirty blonde with a pinch of wheat has a nice honey malt backbone and a balanced bitterness set apart by its pleasant cascade hop aroma.

I foresee a six-pack of this appearing on my grocery list in the near future. It was pretty smooth and palatable. — LG

Suzy was the belle of the ball. This is a summer beer that’s balanced between flavor and heft. It’s a natural beer. It’s not some dude showing off with a 20-minute discourse of some aspect of beer culture that his wife must hate. It’s just a beer. Order this. — Joe Boone

The Southern Prohibition blonde ale tasted unremarkable at first, but it did boast an excellent balance, even though the finish was slightly bitter. But as our tasting went on (and on…), I found myself coming back to it. This one’s a grower, not a shower. — CM

This blonde ale was made in Hattiesburg, Mississippi. But it seems made for a hot night on a Midtown porch. — TS 

Eileen Townsend

Starless, Wiseacre 

What they say: Schwarzbier. Dark elegance.

Relatively bitter, but I enjoyed it. It’ll go great with one of my signature grilled T-bones. — LG

Considering it’s a black lager, it’s lighter on the palate than you would think, nothing at all like engine sludge. — Jackson Baker

Whoa! This tastes like licking a walnut. It is very mellow. If I were to write a fantasy novel about this beer, it would be a gentle but wise animal in a magical forest. — ET

Dark in color, but with a lighter mouthfeel than Guinness, this black lager immediately got my attention by combining the best of both worlds between a lager and a stout. In my notebook from the tasting, in big letters, I wrote “BEST BEER,” so this one is a keeper. — CM

Here we go: a stout, malty lager with a roasted flavor, a darker beer I can sink my teeth into. This is what I like, and it was perfect (not too heavy) for this first day of spring on the patio with just a slight nip still in the air. — RA

Hornet’s Revenge, Ghost River

What they say: Very medium in body, which gives it a twist with most black beers being heavier set (fatties). A hint of sweetness, followed by the a crisp and clean hoppy finish.

The saying “Don’t judge a book by its cover” fits perfectly with this beer. It’s a dark IPA but light in taste. Nevertheless, it didn’t sit well with my taste buds. — LG

Nice pale ale, looks a bit dark, but doesn’t taste dark. It’s got some snap to it. — Jackson Baker

While working on a farm in my youth, I once suffered a hornet’s revenge. It hurt like a sumbitch. This Hornet’s Revenge was much nicer — a rich, dark, creamy payback that caused pleasure, not pain. I even went back for more. You might say Revenge is sweet. — BV

I would drink anything with this name. A black pale ale involved similar trickery to the Starless: It’s a dark beer that has flavor but lacks the knockout tanginess of trendy IPAs. — Joe Boone

I don’t feel “hornet” from this, unless it is a literary reference. This is a beer for successful academics in very remote fields and people who enjoy seeing stage productions of English tragedies. It is strange and complicated and good, but probably not to take lightly. — ET 

Ghost River scores with this playful combination of styles. It’s bitter, but with a light mouthfeel and just enough hops to keep it interesting. This went really well with the Central BBQ I was snacking on while we were tasting, and I think it would pair excellently with a big, fat burger from the grill. — CM

Beautiful dark beer, but you can’t fool me — this is a pale ale. It’s fruity and won’t abide. Nope. — RA

Love that Ghost River has unleashed its brewing talent with the Brewers’ Series of seasonal and one-off beers. This black pale ale is bold, balanced, and delicious. — TS   

Session IPA, High Cotton

What they say: Citrusy hops, low alcohol, kind of deceiving for an IPA, and very smooth. 

I’m a little offended at the idea of calling a “session” to drink multiple beers. I thought this was America. But given the brewers’ tendency to cram as much flavor and alcohol into a can, I get where this beer is coming from. — Joe Boone

This beer is the Justin Bieber of beers (Bieber circa 2013-2014, when he was getting arrested and peeing in public and fighting with Orlando Bloom or whoever) because it knows you are curious about it, and it knows it has a lot of spirit (/spirits) to offer, and it does not give a fuck. — ET

Very sharp, light, and acidic. I’m not sure who this low alcohol beer is designed for, but it isn’t me. The first sip made my salivary glands seize up. Not recommended. — CM

I’m a big fan of the ESB at High Cotton, and I love their taproom. But the name says it all: IPA. On this first day of spring, I prefer my flowers in the ground and not in my glass. — RA

Session beers? More beers and more time to drink ’em? Hell, yes. I could drink this IPA for a very long session. Who’s buying? — TS

Spring Seasonal, Yazoo 

What they say: A Helles bock style …nice deep tan color with a slight bready sweet aroma, with a light mouth feel that finishes with a smooth maltiness and clean hop flavor.

Two thumbs up! This one was fruity, flavorful, and delivered a smooth aftertaste. It’s perfect for the springtime.  — LG

Tangy but mellow, a little gold sneaking through, not so much light as buoyant. — Jackson Baker

Spring Seasonal was heavenly — a light, citrusy, easy-to-drink beer that had me wanting to dance around in a field of daisies. Or maybe just sit on my porch and drink more. — BV

Okay, so this is the beer for the boat. This beer is like your best bro from college — not the one that used to do a bunch of coke and now works in investments, but the responsible one who has made good life choices but doesn’t brag about them. It is respectable but also relaxed, simple, never shallow. — ET

It’s light and citrusy, and the best of these light beers so far. It’s the only one I would drink for a whole session (beer term and I have no idea what it means). — RA

Lucid, Memphis Made

What they say: This pale golden German ale is light and crisp. Memphis Made’s only year-round beer, it has a slightly bready aroma and a spicy hop note from Herkules hops. 

This is the ideal brew to guzzle down after you’ve finished some extensive yard work in the humid Memphis heat. — LG

A little watery, for better or for worse. It’s a beer for way down the line when you need something that goes down easy. — Jackson Baker

Bubbly and regional-ish. Deutsche. Ich finde die Memphis Made Lucid Kolsch ich bin sehr gut! Ja wohl.  — ET

This is a carefully controlled, well-balanced, German beer. Nothing fancy, just quality, like a well-made, comfy chair. If you’ve got this waiting for you after you mow the lawn, you’re in good shape. — CM

Light and fruity, but not too much. I could drink a few of these in a sitting, and I probably have. It’s a German-style, but none of the bitterness that comes with the hoppiness. — RA

Rockbone IPA, Memphis Made 

What they say: A heavy hand of Herkules hops gives this IPA a real bang, while the Mosaic hops do the dirty work and ooze out flavors of passion fruit and berries.

Got some kick to it, all right, as if made of wild grass. Anti-mellow. Lovers of buttermilk probably like it. — Jackson Baker

Long and strong and turgid. Best to finish it quick. Too much of this bad boy and you’ll be tweeting embarrassing stuff all over the internet. — BV

When Memphis’ beloved Rockbone made his or her ignominious debut into Memphis society, some suggested that, after what must have been a stressful day, people should buy that person a beer. Folks at Memphis Made must have been listening: They created a beer especially for Rockbone. IPA stands for Internet Porn Aficionado, right? No? My bad. — Joe Boone

This is the beer to do your air guitar solo with. But what band will you sample? Not Journey! Nope. Not even Def Leppard. This is a straight-up Axl Motherfucking Rose beer. It wears its denim shirts real tight, with some buttons open. It doesn’t shy away from a bandana. — ET

Boomslang IPA, Wiseacre 

What they say: Unlike most Belgian beers with little hop bitterness, flavor, and aroma … Belgian IPAs are bursting forth with all of those.

Bitter for no damn reason. Period. — LG

Boom-slanga-langa-langa! Floral-ish, hoppy, Belgian beer that makes a statement: Drink me. Drink me now or die. — BV

By the time we got to this beer, we had smashed almost everything in the place and the staff had retreated next door to call the authorities. — Joe Boone

Again with the IPAs. This was the last beer and, honestly, I was too buzzed to give a shit any longer. I do feel bad, though, about Central BBQ’s flower bed on the south side of their patio, where we tossed the dregs of our glasses. On the bright side, their azaleas should look terrific in a few weeks. — RA

Chris Davis, a gluten-free man, tested a number of brews for the wheat-averse. Never let it be said the Flyer doesn’t love you. All of you.

Hopsation, Woodchuck Cider 

Hopsation is a “hop forward” cider that aims to be more beer-like by adding a bitter dose of hops to the fruity brew. The result is a more complex sip. I’ve never been a cider fan, although this somewhat citrusy, riesling-like option has softened my opinion. — CD

Pale Ale, Omission 

Bubbly, honey-colored, and fragrant, Omission comes on crisp and refreshing. It has herbal notes and a distinct toasted-biscuit flavor that, I suppose, makes it a breakfast beer. But I’d happily drink it with lunch or dinner, too. — CD

Redbridge, Anheuser-Busch

Redbridge may not have a complex craft beer flavor profile, but it’s completely drinkable. Oh sure, this sorghum-based beer has the malty/yeasty smell of a laundry pile, but it absolutely beats the pants off a Bud Light. — CD