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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

A Cuppa Joe with Reverb Coffee’s Jeremy Harris

Everybody has an aha moment. For the Apostle Paul, it came on the road to Damascus. For Reverb Coffee founder Jeremy Harris, it happened one night in a tiny village in the Dominican Republic.

“I was having dinner at a friend’s house,” recalls Harris, “and our hostess brought out this old metal cafeteria tray covered with shot glasses. And I was like, what is this old lady doing?”

The shot glasses, it turned out, were full of espresso—but not just any espresso. The coffee had been grown and roasted right there in the village. The espresso was brewed on a stovetop with brown sugar, and the flavor, says Harris, was out of this world.

“I’d never had that level of coffee before,” he continues. “I thought, you know, why don’t we have this where I live?”

[jump]

Why, indeed? When he got back to the States, Harris bought a home roaster, and in April 2013, he started selling his beans commercially.

His concept is simple: teach Memphis to brew better coffee. That means doing lighter roasts (darker roasts obscure delicate origin flavors) and shortening the time between roasting and brewing.

In practice, that involves roasting smaller batches and delivering them to stores more frequently. I tried a cup of their Ethiopia Lekempte, which was rich and smooth, with notes of citrus and berry.

Want to try Reverb Coffee? Chances are, you already have. (Hint: it’s in the beer.)

Back in January, Reverb partnered with Memphis Made Brewing to produce Reverberation, a Belgian-style coffee stout. The first run was such a hit that—Happy Turkey Day!—they’re bringing it back at the end of November.

If you prefer your coffee the old-fashioned way, you can pick up a one-pound bag of Reverb at Cash Saver or Miss Cordelia’s. Or hey, they brew it fresh at Avenue Coffee, right around the corner from the University of Memphis.

But hey—can you keep a secret? Like seriously, just between us? Word on the street is that Reverb is getting its own coffee shop in December—and it may or may not be somewhere in Cooper Young. Shh!

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

How to Drink a Beer

Memphis Made Brewing Company has been in operation about 10 months and has introduced 16 styles of beer to the Memphis market. Two new IPAs are being introduced this month, including Guitar Attack in bottles and a Golden Ale especially for Gonerfest aptly named GBR. Their popular Lucid Kolsch is slated to be their first year-round offering.

When it comes to advising one on how to drink a beer, Memphis Made co-owner Andy Ashby puts it plainly: Hold glass, tilt, don’t choke. Brewmaster Drew Barton takes the question a bit more seriously. His first bit of advice? Don’t smoke. “It distracts from the flavors,” he says, adding, “Also, it’s so bad for you.”

Ashby, who has now put out his one cigarette of the day, says that temperature is also important for serving different styles of beer. “Ales, and we just brew ales, generally speaking, can go warmer than lagers,” he says. “The English drink their beer cool not cold. The mass majority of Americans like to drink their lighter lagers really cold.” Ashby notes that while a PBR will not improve in taste 30 minutes after being opened, a stout or a porter may very well taste better and have more flavor after it warms.

Barton says there’s a reason to drink cheap beer cold — to mute the flavors. Ashby agrees saying that really, really cold beer stuns the taste buds, which are the gatekeepers.

Barton says 40 to 45 degrees is a good temperature depending on the beer. “Some brewers put suggestions on the bottle for temperatures and style of glass, but they aren’t hard and fast. You don’t have to drink Chimay out of a Chimay glass,” he says.

Both Ashby and Barton liken the temperature issue to wine. In general, red wine is better at room temperature and white is better chilled — although Barton reserves the right to put ice cubes in his red.

Ashby also advises using a clean glass. Barton agrees, “A dirty glass can cause an off flavor. Any film will cause nucleation sites. Bubbles form and while the head retention may be better, it will decarbonate quicker,” he says. Ashby, translating, says, “If bubbles stick to the side of your glass, it isn’t clean.”

Speaking of head, Ashby says a pinky’s worth is a good measure. “How much head depends on style. The Brits like no head, or less than one centimeter. Belgium styles may have two inches.”

Barton adds, “Belgians argue that you should pour straight and foam it up.” Ashby offers his advice on a proper pour: “Hold it at a 45 degree angle. Get the tap close to the lip of the far side of the glass and make sure it is fully open. Fill it two-thirds or three-fourths of the way and then level out the glass to finish filling.”

Ashby and Barton are in the process of finishing a taproom and patio and hope to have them open in the next month or so.

Justin Fox Burks

High Cotton

High Cotton Brewing Company’s taproom (598 Monroe) is open Thursdays (4-8ish), Fridays (4-10ish) and Saturdays (2-10ish) and features seven to eight beers, including the ESB, Biere de Garde, CT Czar IPA, Hefeweizen, Scottish Ale, Pilsner, and Milk Stout. They also have 160 taps around town.

Owner Brice Timmons is the go-to guy for anyone who wants to feel really good about drinking beer. “Drink beer with family and friends. Beer is about community and friendship,” he says. “It’s quite literally the origin of civilization.”

Beat that, wine!

Timmons says that monolithic hunters and gatherers had a more varied diet than farmers and had more time for leisure and socialization. “Anthropologists spent decades trying to figure out why anyone would choose farming. It was to grow grain to make beer,” he says. “The point being that humans have developed a civilization in which beer and community are inextricably linked. We do ourselves a service when we gather in clean, well-lit places to drink beer and spend time with friends and family.”

His second piece of advice on how to drink a beer is to drink without judgment. “There is no benefit to snobbery. If someone wants a Bud Light from a bottle, that is their business. Likewise, if someone wants a Belgium sour ale in a flared tulip glass at 55 degrees so they can take tasting notes, so be it.”

Personally, Timmons likes to drink beer from a Burgundy wine glass because it focuses the aroma but still has heft. “I like to spend time thinking about the aroma and how it goes from nose to palate to finish seamlessly. When it smells like fresh biscuits, tastes like malty bread, and finishes with the sweetness of toast, it’s a beautiful thing,” he says.

Timmons says that craft beer’s greatest advantage as a beverage is that it’s accessible to everyone. “Even the best beers are affordable, maybe not every day, but … making such an accessible beverage inaccessible through snobbery or pretense doesn’t do a service to anybody.”

On October 4th, High Cotton will be tapping a special release Oktoberfest lager as part of their block-wide Oktoberfest celebration from noon to 7 p.m. General admission is $40 (VIPs $100 per person or $150 per couple). There will be all the beer you can get to the front of the line for, a whole pig roast, a buffet including locally made bratwurst, traditional fermented delights like sauerkraut and dill pickles, folk music, traditional music, and family-friendly activities.

Justin Fox Burks

Wiseacre

Wiseacre Brewing Company offers two year-round beers in cans — Ananda IPA and Tiny Bomb American Pilsner — and features those as well as a host of other beers in its taproom (2783 Broad), which is open Thursdays (4-8 p.m.), Fridays, (4-10 p.m.) and Saturdays (1-8 p.m.).

Co-founder Kellan Bartosch believes drinking beer should be less scary to newcomers and more light-hearted for “connoisseurs.” He says, “Folks often come to the taproom and lay out their fears before ordering. ‘I don’t like dark beers’ or ‘My husband likes the mega hoppy stuff, but, yuck, I think it’s gross — do you have wine?'”

Bartosch says it would be easy to condescend to these new patrons with beer vernacular and BJCP-style (Beer Judge Certification Program) guidelines vs. modern American brewing techniques, but he and his brother, the brewmaster, Davin, would like everybody to know that there are relatable flavors and textures in beer from the rest of the gustatory world. “Like coffee? Stouts have roasted flavors. Enjoy bananas? Hefeweizen yeast produces banana-like ester compounds,” he notes. “Tiny Bomb is a clean, crisp lager that’s similar in style to many macro-produced beers but has a ton more flavor — so much so Southern Living said it was the best beer in the state!”

All this is to say that the Bartosch brothers think people should drink beer with an open mind and know that there is bound to be something recognizable in beer that he or she might enjoy. “Much like other subcultures with way too much seriousness, it shouldn’t be forgotten that this is beer and not rocket science. In our internet culture so many have taken it upon themselves to become critics of whatever the topic is, arguing on message boards or writing derogatory messages on social media. Simply pointing a finger and being a critic is easy; being an appreciator is more difficult and inclusive in the long run,” he says.

However, he does also believe there is a time for analysis, excessive sniffing, and such. “Aroma, appearance, flavor, mouthfeel, and history all play an important part in understanding what you’re drinking. Beer ingredients, what flavors/textures they create, and the role they play in different styles can teach us that it’s silly to complain about a Marzen not being hoppy because that’s like getting mad at a burger for not being Thai curry,” he says.

Bartosch continues, “Balance is a touch achievement on the brewery side and learning to appreciate that can be zen-like. Similarly, making something clean and delicate is more challenging than making something extreme. Understanding that every style of beer can be enjoyable the same way we peruse genres of music or food based on our moods is much wiser than only drinking IPAs.”

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Cover Feature News

Untapped!

Years ago, some anonymous graffiti artist adorned a piece of plywood nailed onto the long-abandoned Tennessee Brewery building with a painting of a snaggle-toothed green monster in a fedora. A thought bubble beside his head reads, “Inve$t in Good Time$!”

Justin Fox Burks

Doug Carpenter

The monster has become weathered over the years, with plywood cracks showing through his paint. But a group of enterprising Memphis movers and shakers have taken his message to heart. In an effort to both save the historic Tennessee Brewery from demolition and have a good time in the process, the group is investing their own money and time to put on an event dubbed “Tennessee Brewery Untapped.”

Every Thursday through Sunday from April 24th through June 1st, the courtyard and two inside rooms of the brewery will be converted into a beer garden with local craft brews, food trucks, pop-up retail, live music, and more.

Justin Fox Burks

Taylor Berger

Restaurateur Taylor Berger, attorney Michael Tauer, commercial real estate executive Andy Cates, and communications specialist Doug Carpenter are pouring money into this last-ditch effort to save the endangered brewery.

Mayor’s Innovation Delivery Team project managers Tommy Pacello and Abby Miller, who have organized similar pop-up events through the mayor’s office, have been consulting with the team. And Doug Carpenter & Associates public relations specialist Kerry Hayes has contributed ideas and promotion for the event.

Kevin Norman, who owns the brewery under the name Tennessee Brewery LLC, bought the building in an effort to save it back in 1997. But after years of failed deals with potential buyers, Norman has plans to demolish the building by the end of July if no one steps forward to purchase it before then.

“They have a termination clause available for the first six months, and they know they can sell the land after that. There are ongoing expenses with holding this type of building,” says the building’s leasing agent James Rasberry. “That six months has already started, and come the end of July, we will be seeing a demolition crew working on that building. The clock is ticking, no question.”

Enter “Tennessee Brewery Untapped.” The idea behind the free, open-to-the-public pop-up event is to showcase the brewery in a new light and, perhaps, demonstrate the building’s untapped potential. It’s a form of pre-vitalization, a new urbanist tactic exhibiting ways the building could be revitalized before any revitalization efforts are in place.

By holding the event in just the courtyard and two bottom-floor rooms, the event’s sponsors are hoping to show potential investors that revitalizing the building doesn’t have to be a multi-million dollar project.

“Finish the courtyard and the two rooms we’re using, put in some bathrooms, and have some weddings there for a year or two,” says Tauer. “Build up some capital and take on another room, and then we don’t have to lose that beautiful building at the end of the summer.”

Justin Fox Burks

helped do layout drawings for the set up of Tennessee Brewery Untapped; Larry Bloch a former owner of the Tennessee Brewery building surveys the progress with James Raspberry

From Brewery to Beer Garden

Up to 250,000 barrels of beer, including the Tennessee Brewing Company’s iconic Goldcrest 51, were brewed at 495 Tennessee Street in the brewery’s heyday at the turn of the 20th century. And beginning Thursday, April 24th, beer will again flow at the old brewery.

In the past couple years, four craft breweries have popped up in Memphis, and all four — Ghost River, Wiseacre, High Cotton, and Memphis Made — will be serving their beers in the beer garden. Twelve taps will feature mostly local beers with a couple of regional offerings.

The beer garden will be open Thursday through Sunday until June 1st. Hours will be from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Thursdays and Sundays, with hours extended until 11 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.

Each Sunday from noon to 6 p.m., Untapped will host “Beer Garden with Benefits,” and $1 from each beer sale will be refunded back to customers in the form of a token. Those tokens can be placed in one of several buckets representing area nonprofits, such as Project Green Fork, Habitat for Humanity, and Church Health Center, among others. The event’s sponsors will match the nonprofit receiving the most tokens at the end of each Sunday.

Food trucks from Fuel, Stick ‘Em, Rock ‘n’ Dough, and others, will rotate throughout each weekend. Berger and Tauer, partners in the soon-to-open Truck Stop food truck court/restaurant at Cooper and Central, have parked their official Truck Stop truck in the brewery’s courtyard.

Justin Fox Burks

Andy Cates, Tommy Pacello, and Michael Tauer

“That will become the kitchen of the Truck Stop when it opens, but for [Untapped], we’re thinking about bringing in some different chefs and trying different types of cuisine,” Tauer says.

There will be pop-up retail from various local vendors, including designer T-shirt shop Sache, which created three shirts promoting the Untapped event, including one that features the aforementioned green monster.

Live music will be limited to acoustic acts, due to requests from residents of the surrounding South Bluffs neighborhood to keep the noise level low. Opening weekend will feature Caleb Sweazy on Friday, April 25th, and Apollo Mighty with Josh Crosby and Jeremy Stanfill of Star & Micey on Saturday, April, 26th, at 8 p.m.

The sponsors are penciling in entertainment schedules from week to week, rather than planning the entire line-up from the start to allow for a more free-flowing organic event.

“We don’t really know what will happen [from week to week], and oddly enough, I find that to be sort of liberating,” says Carpenter.

Neighborhood Concerns

When news first surfaced of the Untapped event about a month ago, a few South Bluffs residents raised concerns about having live music and beer in their usually quiet neighborhood, hence the booking of only acoustic acts.

“The neighbors helped us set the vibe,” says Cates, executive vice-president of brokerage services for Colliers International. “We don’t want people being mad at us for playing drums until 10 p.m.”

Don Hutson, a 20-year South Bluffs resident and the president of the South Bluffs Neighborhood Association, says he believes most residents are now supporting the event.

“We had a few people who were concerned that it would be noisy or there would be problems with them serving food and creating some kind of event we’re not used to,” Hutson says. “But apparently, it’s going to be well-done. And they promised us the music wouldn’t be too loud.”

Deni Reilly, who owns downtown’s Majestic Grille with her husband Patrick, is a South Bluffs resident, and she fully supports the event.

“It’s great that the event is family-friendly so we can wheel our baby over for the acoustic shows,” Reilly says. “We live in the shadow of the brewery, and we’d like to be able to call that beautiful building a neighbor for many years to come.”

South Bluffs neighbors were also initially concerned about parking, especially during the already congested Memphis In May weekends. The sponsors plan to use the grassy lot next to the building for parking on non-Memphis In May days, but since the lot is small, they are encouraging people to bike or trolley to the event.

Much work has been done to convert the littered brewery courtyard into an attractive event space. For four weekends prior to the event, the core group and volunteers from the neighborhood have been cleaning up the courtyard, building tables and a stage from repurposed palettes and reclaimed wood, and creating planters out of old tires to hold plants donated by the Memphis Botanic Garden.

“It’s been affirming that this is an idea people get behind, and it’s also yet another example of what makes this such a great town,” Tauer says. “We put a call out to see who would help us dig out years of dirt and broken glass. They worked their asses off.”

Vintage brewing labels from Tennessee Brewing Co.

Finest Beer You’ve Ever Tasted

Those years of dirt and broken glass tell the story of a time when Memphis was still a young city and apparently home to lots of beer lovers.

On June 2, 1877, the Memphis Brewing Company, at that time run by S. Luehrmann, P. Wahl, and H. Leisse, served the first beer created at what is now known as the Tennessee Brewery, a mammoth Romanesque revival-style building at the corner of Tennessee Street and Butler Avenue.

Vintage brewing labels from Tennessee Brewing Co.

In 1885, a group of German immigrants purchased the brewery for $18,000. Those three — John Wolfang Schorr, Caspar Koehler, and Peter Saussenthaler created the successful Goldcrest 51 beer.

Schorr was born in Bavaria and immigrated to the U.S. with his family at age 11. His father was in the brewing business, and he followed in his footsteps.

Schorr and company created lager beer in the Bavarian German style. Their pilsener (spelled “pilsner” today) was widely loved by Memphis beer drinkers in the late 1800s, so they expanded their operation and created other styles of beer. By 1903, the brewery was the largest in the South. In 1906, they introduced their flagship beer: Goldcrest (the “51” was added later for the 51st anniversary of the brewery).

Vintage brewing labels from Tennessee Brewing Co.

Beer memorabilia collector Kenn Flemmons acquired many of the brewery’s original records, which he used to write a book called Finest Beer You’ve Ever Tasted, a history of the brewery. He found the original recipe for Goldcrest beer in those records, and with the help of some micro-brewing friends, Flemmons pared the recipe down and brewed it.

“It was perfectly good directions on how to make 250 barrels of Goldcrest 51 beer. We had to do some research to find the type of hops they used, and we never did find the exact strain of yeast,” says Flemmons, who will be speaking at the Untapped event and signing copies of his book on Saturday, April 26th, at 12:30 and 3:30 p.m. “But it tastes like a typical American lager from the early 1950s.”

Vintage brewing labels from Tennessee Brewing Co.

Throughout its history, Tennessee Brewing suffered some hard times, especially when Congress passed the 18th Amendment in 1917. The company even went out of business for a time when national Prohibition was the law of the land. Schorr and company attempted to keep the brewery afloat by making a non-alcoholic drink called Nib. But sales plummeted, and the brewery closed in the late 1920s.

Schorr died in 1932, but when Prohibition was repealed in 1933, Schorr’s son Jacob brought the brewery back to life. Business boomed, and the brewery even survived World War II when hops were difficult to come by and other ingredients, such as rice, corn, and yeast, were rationed.

In the end, it was increased competition from big-time beer companies, such as Budweiser and Papst, that eventually killed the Tennessee Brewing Company in 1954.

The brewery’s main building was sold to A. Karchmer and Sons Scrap Metal in 1955, and they occupied the building until 1981. The Tennessee Brewery has remained shuttered ever since.

Sobering Reality

Norman and his family purchased the property in 1999 for $350,000 in an effort to save the neglected building. He poured money into new roofing and stabilized the structure, saving it from demolition.

Since then, plenty of potential buyers have contacted Rasberry, and there have been 14 feasibility studies on potential uses for the building — from condos to a museum to another brewery.

“The [brewery] building is interesting, sexy, and cool, and people are seduced by it initially,” Rasberry says. “That’s been a problem in the past, with regard to actually getting it sold. We have had it under contract numerous times, but it’s very difficult to make the numbers work.”

Rasberry says he’s shown the building at least 500 times to potential buyers.

“I’ve kissed a ton of frogs looking for that princess, and we’re still looking,” he says.

The Tennessee Brewery, circa 1895

But if that princess isn’t found soon, the 130-year-old building may disappear from the Memphis landscape.

Many Memphians have a story about breaking into the building at one point or another. And though most have simply been curiosity-seekers, vandals have done plenty of damage to the aging structure, which makes the cost of renovation even higher.

“People are constantly breaking in, and just replacing a window will cost you $250 to $500. Not to mention that they’ve taken chairs on the new roof and punched holes in the roofing we spent $500,000 on,” Rasberry says.

The building is listed for $1.75 million. But Rasberry says the amount of money a buyer would have to invest to renovate the building and get it up to code is astronomical. If a buyer wanted to renovate the entire building, it would need new elevators for handicap accessibility to all six floors.

The wrought-iron stair railings, often the subject of artsy photographs, would need to be restored or replaced. Rasberry says that might run $200 to $300 a foot. Massive windows on the south side would prove costly to replace.

“There are windows that probably cost $3,000 to $5,000 each. The numbers just go crazy when you calculate what just the glass portion of that building would cost. Those are things that make you go, ‘Wow, how do we make this work?'” Rasberry says.

The Attic

The answer to Rasberry’s question might lie in a “less is more” approach to renovating the building, say the sponsors of Untapped.

While the group organizing the event is sure most Memphians who stop by the event over the next month will be there for “good times,” they’re hoping a few potential buyers might stop in as well. But they’re not specifically targeting uber-wealthy developers with funds to renovate the entire building all at once.

Instead, they’re using Untapped to push what they’re calling “the attic” concept.

“Let’s stop thinking about how you boil the ocean and develop this whole thing at once,” says Hayes of Doug Carpenter & Associates. “Can we see if there are smaller pieces that we can bite off one at a time? Get some people and money flowing and then move on to new pieces. Whether the whole thing gets renovated is kind of irrelevant. This is a new way of thinking about buildings of this size and in this condition.”

They’re hoping a potential buyer will see value in renovating only part of the ground floor — perhaps the courtyard and a few rooms — to use as event space, food truck parking, or some other use that wouldn’t require the entire building rather than the costly renovation that would be required for, say, condos or apartments.

“Those 14 feasibility studies, even when condo prices downtown were going for $200 a foot, weren’t penciling out. If you build out this whole thing, what do you do about parking? That’s a huge cost because you have to build structure parking,” Pacello says. “But if you shrink this thing down and think of it as just a ground floor, you take the need for an elevator out. And that’s a huge cost.”

It’s an idea Rasberry has gotten behind.

“We’ve been discussing just doing the bottom two floors and land-banking the remaining portion, thinking of it more like a two-story house with a large attic. You could use the upper floors for storage space,” Rasberry says.

Since they’re investing their own funds into the Untapped event, Tauer says they’re hoping to turn a bit of a profit. And he hopes that can inspire someone with a vision for a permanent use.

“Preservation doesn’t work unless there’s business rationale. The charitable model of historical preservation isn’t sustainable,” Tauer says. “[We’re hoping] this type of project shows someone out there who can invest significant resources that you don’t have to think of this as a $10 million project. If you can throw a couple hundred thousand dollars into it, think of what you can do based on what we’ve done.”

If Untapped is successful, Cates believes it can be a model for saving other endangered historic properties in Memphis.

“As long as Memphis doesn’t run out of abandoned buildings, you can take this concept somewhere else,” Cates says. “There are so many different things you can do. It doesn’t always have to be a beer garden.”

Memphis Heritage executive director June West agrees. After the news of the brewery’s impending demolition broke a few months ago, Memphis Heritage called a meeting, and this “attic” idea was floated.

“Use what you can and make it work. And that doesn’t mean some marvelous thing won’t happen [with the rest of the building] later,” West says. “There may come a day when you can go past the second floor. I think that’s a really important step for looking at a lot of buildings in Memphis.”

This idea of previtalization isn’t new to Memphis, though it may be the first time its been tried in a single building. The Mayor’s Innovation Delivery Team’s MemFIX events — neighborhood festivals with pop-up shops in unused and abandoned spaces in Crosstown and South Memphis — have already helped to enliven those neighborhoods.

The long-empty row of Crosstown Shoppes on Cleveland served as pop-up shops during the first MemFIX event in November 2012, and today, all of those formerly empty spaces have been filled with art studios, galleries, a hula-hooping studio, and the Hi-Tone music club. With Untapped, the organizers are transferring that idea to a single building.

Whether or not Untapped is the saving grace for the Tennessee Brewery, its organizers are at least glad they’re trying.

Carpenter says, “Our perspective is, if they’re going to tear it down, let’s enjoy it while it’s still here.”

Categories
Cover Feature News

Mmmm, Beer!

Warmer days are ahead and that can only mean one thing: Beers will turn from dark and hearty to light and clean. Winter months belong to the dark beers, like rich and roasty stouts and porters. Spring and summer are for crisp and refreshing ales, and blondes, and more.

Brewers have been planning for and working on their spring and summer beers for months now. It takes a while to brew a beer, and they want to make sure that when the temperature rises and tastes change, you’ll have a beer to match the weather.

In no previous spring in Memphis history have beer drinkers had it so good. Last year was a watershed year for beer here, with three new local breweries and two growler shops opening their doors. So now five local breweries will have brand new beers in bottles, cans, bars, and restaurants all over town: Ghost River, Memphis Made, Wiseacre, High Cotton, and Bosco’s.

For some, this is a patch of untrampled snow, but for others, the volume of new options can be intimidating, especially if they’re new to beer or looking for something beyond the Bud Light rut.

That’s where we come in. Part of the Memphis Flyer’s mission is to educate. So, here we are. There’s a flood of new craft beers out there, all unique and delicious in their own way, and we want to introduce you to many of them. We hope our Spring Beer Guide will help you find a beer you like and that you’ll give it a try the next time you’re out.

There was really only one way to approach this task and we did it so you didn’t have to: We drank them all. The massive beer run required for this project made a frat party look like a temperance rally. The run led to nearly every craft beer hotspot in Memphis — Ghost River Brewing, Madison Growler Shop, Bosco’s, Memphis Made Brewing, The Growler, and Wiseacre Brewing. 

J.C. Youngblood and the good people at Central BBQ allowed us to set up our haul in the back room of the their new downtown location. We unloaded our trunk and lined up some of the nearly dozen growlers, showing off the orange and amber and yellow beers inside. We ate good, hearty, salty foods, which is crucial to this kind of work. We drank (some) water, another crucial trade secret. But mostly, we drank beers.

Justin Fox Burks

“Flyer” Staff at central BBQ enjoying the awesome job of sampling beers

The “we” being Flyer staff writers Toby Sells, Alexandra Pusateri, and Chris Shaw, Music Editor Joe Boone, Associate Editor Bianca Phillips, Film and Television Editor Greg Akers, and Flyer Editor Bruce VanWyngarden. In all, we sampled 16 beers. Most of them are local, but we threw in a few national seasonals to present a more-complete picture of the beers you can find in Memphis at the moment.

The caveat here is that no one on the Flyer staff is a beer expert. Beer fans and beer drinkers, of course, but none of us is anywhere close to being a cicerone. So, our descriptions don’t always follow the lingo. (For example, you probably know what a hot dog tastes like but can you describe the flavors that comprise that taste?) 

Taylor James (l) and Jimmy Randall (r)

But we weren’t flying blind. We had help from two key players in the Memphis beer scene. Big-bearded Taylor James, beer manager for Cash Saver and its Madison Growler Shop, and medium-bearded Jimmy Randall, Ghost River’s head brewer, served as our guides, as we charted the waters of some of the coming season’s new beers. — Toby Sells

Ghost River Golden Ale, Ghost River

This is a perfect of example of a good, hearty beer that I could sit and drink until my wife made me stop. Ghost River’s Golden is not as chunky as their Red. You would rather have this beer with food: It has lower carbonation and less enthusiastic hops content, all for good. I may have tried this beer once at Park Pizza Café, which is why they pour one when I walk in the door. — JB

This Bluff City standby never disappoints and is a great place to start for any beer drinker looking to tap into the local craft market. Ghost River Golden Ale would go great with grilling food in the middle of the day, and the light mix of flavors suggests you could get away with drinking a few in the afternoon without spoiling dinner. — CS

Justin Fox Burks

Ghost River Riverbank Red, Ghost River

I love the balance of this beer. It has a medium body to it, but the tangy hops flavor is not overwhelming. For some reason, people like to make beer that tastes like syrup. This beer counters that aggressive tendency and inhabits a Goldilocks Zone of floral hops and lively carbonation. I could live here. — JB

Kind of Fat-Tire-like. A little hoppy but not IPA hoppy. Seems a little heavy for spring  but carbonation makes it taste very fresh. — BP

The full mouth feel and big citrus and roasted flavor lets you know you’re drinking a beer, by god. Not one of those watery, yellow deals from the major brewers. — TS

Mama’s Little Yella Pils, Oskar Blues

Super light. It’s like sunlight in a glass. — GA

Crisp, light, very drinkable. A good beer with which to introduce someone to craft beer. Grassy notes, tastes like summertime — and tastes like a beer I’d drink after mowing the lawn. — BV

Very light, very drinkable pilsner, perfect for those who prefer quantity over quality. Slightly sour and slightly sweet, this is one you could drink four or five of, and the aluminum-can packaging suggests that it can (and probably should) be shot-gunned. My favorite today. — CS

Bent Note IPA (India Pale Ale), Memphis Made

Sweet, perky IPA with a nice nose. Slightly bitter but pleasant, back­of­the­tongue after­taste. Makes me want to eat some ribs. — BV

Justin Fox Burks

This amounts to a softer approach. Some beer company that sells vile swill used the word “drinkability” in their advertising. I think that’s what Memphis Made was going for here with this good, aromatic beer that’s lighter on the palette and belly. More please. — JB

Malty up front. A little bitter in the back. Perfect for spring drinking and a good introduction to craft beer for anyone looking for one. — TS

Redheaded Alt, Memphis Made

Darker than a spring beer. It’s closer in color to the Ghost River Riverbank Red, but it tastes lighter and has a less aggressive taste. The Redheaded Alt could accompany a meal at an upscale restaurant. — AP

Five stars! It was my favorite beer of the day. It tastes coffee-like from the chicory but no hoppy taste, very smooth and creamy, but it smells like a wet dog, which is okay because I love all things dog. I would drink this beer all night long. — BP

The Readheaded Alt has an interesting smell, and an amazing taste of complex roasted coffee flavors. A remarkably light-tasting beer, considering all of the flavors involved. Extremely smooth tasting, this beer is a testament to the skill of the brewers at Memphis Made. — CS

Belgian IPA, High Cotton

Did I set out to fall in love with a beer that tastes like grapefruit? No, I did not. It just happened. It’s like I woke up in a flower garden with a delicious, lively beer on my palette. Good morning. Between now and July, I expect to down a flat-bed’s worth of this stuff. Don’t touch it. It’s mine. — JB

These guys are known for experimentation. Last summer’s oolong tea saison is an example of this and it was delicious. Belgian IPA isn’t even a category of beer, according to the High Cotton website. But theirs is bold, crisp, and oh, so drinkable. — TS

A very fruity and floral tasting beer that is similar to grapefruit juice in both taste and bitterness. A good beer to drink before your morning jog. — CS

Lightning Rod, Wiseacre 

Very low alcohol? What’s the point? Guess it’s good for camping or something. — BP

Super clear. Little kick at the end. Immensely light, in a good way. Sweat it out and keep drinking and working in the yard. — GA

Session beers don’t get enough respect! This beer is 3.5 percent alcohol by volume. That means you can drink a ton of it without getting completely faced. Lightning Rod’s got that “biscuity” flavor that beer nerds cherish. Perfect for spring and summer. — TS

Azazel Belgian Golden Ale, Wiseacre

Fantastically flavorful. Its light appearance is deceptive, because it packs a punch on taste. Outstanding. A high-gravity beer that I’m compelled to try to make into a session beer. (Don’t try this at home.) — GA

This is a big­boy beer at 10 percent alcohol content. Blood­-orange color, powerful thick, rich, sweet flavor. Great beer to drink on your porch if you don’t plan to leave your porch. — BV

That’s how I say “ale” when I’ve had enough of it. This has blood orange in it. I didn’t want to drink beer with the word “blood” in its name, but I’m glad I did. This has the balance of carbonation and aromatics that incite my beer hoarding tendencies. — JB

Kind of like the high-alcohol brew La Fin Du Monde, this beer isn’t for the faint of heart. Full bodied, full taste, and full-alcohol, the Azazel could get you into trouble if you drink more than a few. The blood orange taste is subtle and refined, making for one hell of a tasty beer. — CS

Shaft on Draft, Boscos

Familiar tasting. Brought back memories of high school. Not complicated or particularly memorable — like my sophomore year. — BV

This fun, Staxtacular-themed beer from Boscos has nailed malt liquor. The flavor isn’t sharp, and this beer could even be somewhere like Alex’s Tavern during a late night. — AP

Sweet! Love this high-class version of malt liquor. Reminds me of my early 20s. I’d brown bag the shit out of this. — BP

Shaft on Draft tastes a lot like Colt-45, which might be a novel throwback for some, but for those of us who spent our college years playing Edward 40-hands, this Boscos brew might recall memories that were better off forgotten. — CS

10-Year IPA, Yazoo

If you drink enough Nashville beer, the pink elephants start reciting Bible verses. I wish I hadn’t done the spit-take when they said it was from Nashville, because that was some pretty delicious beer that I aerosolized. It also has that grapefruit-hops thing going on. The low carbonation kept it from being my favorite. Thank the Lord. — JB

Justin Fox Burks

I’m a hop head. The bitterer the betterer. This stuff has been out for a few months now and is on a limited-edition run. So, I’m drinking it like it won’t be here tomorrow. It’s bitter but it doesn’t turn your mouth inside out. It’s clean and smooth and I can (and will) drink it all day. — TS

Citrus leaps out of the glass. I do like it. It’s from Nashville, so of course it’s a “White” IPA. — GA

Strawberry Harvest Lager, Abita

A breakfast beer. This beer signals springtime like a hipster version of the return of the swallows of San Juan Capistrano. — GA

The Abita Strawberry Harvest lives up to its name, with real Louisiana strawberries used during the brewing process. I usually file things like these under “beer for people who don’t drink beer,” but Abita may have finally persuaded me to try more fruit-infused brews. — CS

Abita Strawberry arrives just before the trees and flowers bud. I drink exactly one of these every year. If that helps spring get here just a little quicker, I do what I can to help. — TS

Restoration Pale Ale, Abita

Brewed to help victims of Hurricane Katrina, this ale benefits an amazing cause, and tastes pretty amazing, too. This golden ale has a rich body and mild bitterness, meaning it can be drunk pretty much anytime — which it should be, as each six-pack sold helps the Katrina Relief Effort. — CS

Same beer as the one Huey’s serves as Gold Nugget. An accessible beer for the cautious. — GA

I am an Abita fan. This is a great cause (for what remains a great need) and a great beer. It’s not plowing any new ground, but you could do much worse than sipping this slightly hoppy, totally accessible beer in your backyard. — TS

Berry Mardi Gras, Madison Growler Shop

This concoction from the Madison Growler Shop is my favorite in this bunch — three-fourths Abita Purple Haze, one-fourth Lindemans Raspberry Lambic, four-fourths amazing. Berry-smelling and sweet-tasting — could be a party favorite for Mardi Gras, satisfying even those who have sworn off beer. — AP

Excellent flavor. Like a rich man’s Boone’s Farm. — GA

Sweet, tangy, rose-colored Great mouth feel. Goes down easy. Probably too easy. — BV

Pistil, Magic Hat

Much better than some of the other hoppy IPA-like beers we tasted. This has the right balance of hops and maltiness. — BP

The packaging might make it seem fruity, but the Pistil is a serious beer with a light but complex taste. Seems ideal for drinking outdoors. – CS.

Spring Blonde, New Belgium

Has a hint of sweetness, enough that it could be the beer of choice at a garden or spring party. — AP

Brings to mind the great Belgium blonde beers, with lemon peel and pepper to keep things interesting. It’s not too malty or too sweet, as many Blonde ales can be. A great beer to hit the trails with this spring. — CS