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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Big Cypress Lodge to Open Mississippi Terrace Outdoor Lounge

Bass Pro Shops at the Pyramid’s Big Cypress Lodge announced today its 7,000-square-foot outdoor lounge — Mississippi Terrace — will open on May 22nd.

Mississippi Terrace’s seating — including oversized couches and circular fire pit tables — will stretch around the outside of Big Cypress’ third floor, offering a sky-high view of the Mississippi River and the nightly Mighty Lights LED light shows.

“We are excited for the Memphis community to experience the Mississippi Terrace as we all return to connecting in-person with friends, family, and co-workers,” Nail Task, general manager of Big Cypress Lodge said in a press release. “A lot of planning went into creating this thoughtful space where Memphians can make new memories and celebrate brighter summer days ahead.”

The release also states that there will be “plenty of separate seating areas for responsible social distancing.”

The lounge will host DJs and live music on select nights and will feature a full-service bar with signature cocktails, wine, and beer, and a light menu of snacks and entrées.

Menu items will include:
Signature Cocktails
Summer Rye – Rittenhouse Rye, Strawberry, Aperol, Fresh Lime Juice, Absinthe
Sweet Tea Mule – Deep Eddy Sweet Tea Vodka, Peach Puree, Lemon Juice, Ginger Beer, Fresh Mint
Southern Lady – Maker’s Mark, Jalapeno, Mint, Raspberry, Fresh Lemon Juice, Sparkling Rose

Dishes
Charcuterie & Cheese Board – seared venison and duck sausage, Genoa salami, Vermont white cheddar and imported cheeses, house-made pimento cheese, red onion jam, whole grain mustard, and garlic flatbread
Smoked Trout Dip – green onion, capers, red onion, garlic flatbread
Heirloom Tomato & Mozzarella Salad – arugula, spring mix, sea salt, extra virgin olive oil, heirloom grape tomatoes, fresh mozzarella pearls, balsamic reduction
Bacon Guacamole – avocado, lime juice, cilantro, tomatoes, smoked bacon, fresh jalapeño, queso fresco, corn tortillas
Fresh-Baked Soft Pretzel – cheddar ale dipping sauce and whole grain Creole mustard
Italian Flatbread – hearty tomato sauce, roasted grape tomatoes, Italian sausage, mozzarella, red onion, arugula
Fried Gator & Creole Catfish Fingers – spicy hand-breaded alligator, Creole-breaded catfish, sweet jalapeño cream sauce, house-made lemon tartar sauce

Mississippi Terrace is set to open on Memorial Day weekend. Hours will be 5-10 p.m., Friday, May 22nd, through Monday, May 25th. Following the grand opening, the lounge will operate from 5 to 10 p.m. on Thursdays-Saturdays, weather permitting.

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Cover Feature News

Larry Clark’s Memphis Clown Show

Larry Clark sits on a sofa in his artifact-cluttered Midtown house, leafing through a slender book of old photographs. “What a wild life,” he says, under his breath, thumbing past images that remind him of that time he pulled a squad of Russian showgirls from the wreckage of a derailed circus train. And of the time he pulled a man who dressed like Little Lord Fauntleroy from the wreckage of a derailed circus train. Not to mention the time he juggled fire and chainsaws on tour with Marilyn Manson and Nine Inch Nails.

“I’ve been so lucky,” Clark says, showing a picture of himself as a happy teenager, wearing a bright yellow costume topped with an even brighter orange wig. “I’ve been able to do everything I ever wanted to do.”

Some little boys want to drive fire trucks when they grow up. Some want to be doctors or inventors or pilots or businessmen. Some even want to be president of the United States. Larry Clark never wanted to be anything but a clown.

And he pursued that dream relentlessly. “It was an obsession,” he says. From the time he was a toddler, he’d cry when a circus performance ended and his parents got up to go home. “I never wanted to leave the circus,” he says. “I always pleaded with my parents to take me back.”

It’s been a tough few months for Clark, who also performs as a comedian, juggler, mentalist, magician, and storyteller. First, he lost his grandfather in November. Shortly thereafter, his father died unexpectedly. He had to postpone a one-man show he’d been preparing to open at the end of January, and, just when it seemed like things could only get better, they got worse. Ringling Bros. Barnum & Bailey Circus, an American institution older than Coca-Cola — older than baseball — announced it would shut down forever in May. While it was sad news for circus fans, it was devastating news for Clark, who’s worked on and off with the famous troupe for years, even performing as the company’s host clown.

“Name another American brand that’s survived every world war,” Clark says. “[The circus] survived recession, the Great Depression. It survived more slings and arrows than you can ever imagine.

“But the circus isn’t dead just because Ringling Bros. is shutting down,” Clark adds. “That just means a show with 400 people per unit, 18 lions, and two human cannonballs can’t survive in this climate. People still love going to circuses, and there are dozens of tented American circuses that are still doing very well. I’m sure Ringling Bros. could have cut the overhead and kept things going too, if they’d wanted to. They could have pared things down. But then it wouldn’t be the Greatest Show on Earth, would it?”

Clark, who’s a collector of “marvels” and a scholarly champion of the variety arts, mourns the loss of Ringling Bros., but he’s not worried about his own future. “I’ll work, like I always have,” he says.

Through the years, he’s taken Shrine Circus gigs, worked for theme parks and carnivals, and performed with Cirque du Soleil. He’s seen American circus arts evolve, grow, and splinter off in dozens of directions. He’s also played his own small part in the resurrection of previously “dead” forms such as the ten-in-one sideshow and baggy-pants burlesque.

“All the books I’ve ever read about being an entertainer say a good clown learns how to do everything, not just how to be funny,” he says. “So I juggle, do magic, and I even play some musical instruments.” He also drives nails up his nose and swallows scary things like lightbulbs, and fire, and swords. “I don’t like swallowing swords,” he says.

Clark decided he wanted to be a clown early on. “You know, in kindergarten, how they make you lie down on a big piece of paper so they can draw your outline, then ask you to color in who you want to be? I already had my makeup designed. Only I gave myself a big scary jack-o-lantern smile because I was five.”

Most artists spend at least some portion of their early years working day jobs to get by. Clark rarely took that kind of gig, and the ones he did take never lasted long. He’d eventually get fired for calling in sick to take freelance clown work or to catch a show when a circus was in town. That worried his parents, but by the time he was 12, Clark was already doing magic and making decent money working birthday parties, store openings, and other events.

“There was one time when my dad decided I didn’t understand the value of hard work and money, and that was probably true,” he says. To remedy the situation, Clark was forced to apply for a job at the neighborhood Kroger on Mendenhall and instructed to take whatever job they offered. But Clark’s career as a bag boy ended on the same day it began — because no true clown can bear the sight of a crying child, particularly one wailing while his mom is in the checkout line. Reflexively, Clark snatched up a shopping cart and balanced it on his face. The child stopped crying and started laughing. The mother thanked him for accomplishing what she couldn’t. Unfortunately, the manager, who had no patience for clowning, fired Clark on the spot, sending him back to his chosen career path.

Clark spent countless days in the old main branch of the Memphis Public Library on Peabody. “It sounds cheesy to say, but I learned so much in the public library,” Clark says. He studied books on clowning, magic, and circus arts. He spent so much time pursuing his interests, he sometimes fell behind on his schoolwork.

“I hated school,” Clark admits, although he did attempt one semester at the University of Memphis, where he failed every class but juggling. Who had time for college when Wolfchase Galleria was hiring performers for its grand opening, and he could make enough cash from that gig take all his newly minted college buddies to Destin for Spring Break? “I’ve never been very good with money,” Clark also admits.

There’s a thread of loss running through Clark’s backstory. Libertyland, the place where he cut his teeth as a precocious teenage clown, closed down in 2005. “It closed for all the wrong reasons,” he laments. “Even in its last year, there were 200,000 visitors to the park. There were problems, but that’s not a failing business.”

Mr. Giggles Jungle Adventure was the name of the show Clark performed in at Libertyland. He played a character named “Larry, Lord of the Apes” and used his circus skills to teach the show’s serious title character how to laugh. Recent Nobel laureate Bob Dylan bought out the whole park and enjoyed a private performance one night while he was in town for a concert. Vegas lounge singer Tom Jones tracked Clark down one day to pay his compliments, after watching the young clown sing Jones’ signature tune, “What’s New Pussycat,” to a couple of actors in lion costumes.

Working at Libertyland gave Clark a chance to develop his skills in front of an audience. “It was a great little theme park,” Clark says. “The shows were fantastic, it employed a lot of young people, and it was headquartered in Memphis. It was ours.”

Not only did Clark go see every circus that came to town, he started going early to see how the shows were set up and staying late to see how they were broken down. Naturally gregarious, he’d volunteer to help and was never shy about asking the clowns and old side show performers to share a few tricks of the trade.

In the absence of any real formal training, Clark tried his hand at everything. He did street performance on the Boardwalk in Atlantic City, New Jersey, where he also worked the “Wheel of Death” in daredevil shows for a family troupe called the Nerveless Nocks. He tried  his hand (and face) at wince-inducing sideshow tricks with the Jim Rose Circus sideshow. Rose’s show became the face of modern freakdom in the 1990s when his company performed on the Lollapalooza tour. After Clark stretched the truth a bit and said he could juggle chainsaws, Rose was intrigued and invited him to join the show, forcing Clark to have to quickly figure out how to juggle chainsaws — and he did.

“We’d perform in bars and smaller venues during the week,” Clark, said. In between juggling chainsaws, Clark paid close attention to his fellow performers and absorbed newer — and weirder — skills like a sponge. On weekends, the company went out on the road with alt-rockers Marilyn Manson and Nine Inch Nails. It was an eye-opening experience for Clark who says he “learned a lot really fast.”

Clark dreamed of attending clown college, but Ringling Bros. shut it down in 1997. By that time, Clark was wearing his red nose for Royal Palace, a small Hungarian circus working mid-sized venues up and down the East Coast. His big break blew in with a hurricane that threatened to pummel Florida in 1998.

“All of Florida was supposed to shut down,” Clark says. “The Royal Palace was supposed to play a show in Daytona when word got out that Disney was shutting down. We figured they must know something we didn’t.”

When Daytona cancelled, Clark went to Orlando to ride out the storm with his friends Wayne and Marty Scott, circus historians and purveyors of fine clown shoes. Only the hurricane never made landfall, and the next morning brought a surprise phone call from Ringling Bros. recruiter, Tim Holst, a modern-day Robert Ripley who traveled the world looking for marvels and oddities. Holst was looking for experienced clowns, knew of Clark’s work, and made him an offer to become the first non-clown-college graduate to work for Ringling Bros. in 40 years.  

Clark describes his years clowning, hosting, and doing advance work for Greatest Show on Earth as some of the best of his life. “It’s like, what do you do after you’ve won an Olympic medal?” he asks. “Go become a greeter at Walmart?”

But Clark’s seen plenty of hard luck, and he can tell plenty of tales wherein everything goes sideways and everybody loses their money and ends with a twist nobody could have seen coming.  

For example … Clark describes his last days with Circus Nation, one of the most talent-stacked shows he’s ever hooked up with. “It was really too much circus,” he says. “We were all owed money.”

There were already ownership problems when a week’s delay in Laredo, Texas, and ongoing hurricane threats (again) resulted in more cancelled shows. Eventually, like a scene from a John Irving novel, it ended with a bunch of broke circus people standing around on the side of the road, looking at the show’s parked trucks, wondering what they were going to do next.

Clark had just enough cash to limp into Dallas, check into a hotel room, and start getting his life back together. That’s more or less the story of how Larry the teenage clown from Libertyland came to own and operate his own circus.

Clark had been the spokesperson for Circus Nation. When the call center selling tickets for booked shows didn’t hear back from management, they called him. “I told them I didn’t know anything and was owed money,” Clark says. But when the ticket company couldn’t book a replacement crew to work a Shrine Circus date, they called Clark again and asked if he might produce a show. “So I called some of my friends,” he says.

Not only did the show go well, it resulted in other Shrine Circuses hiring Clark to assemble their shows. “I’ve worked so hard all my life to not be in charge of anything,” he laughs. “Now I’m a producer.”

Memphis has a lot of circus history. In addition to hosting its own companies, the city was also a popular port for one-ring circuses touring the Mississippi River on riverboats. Ringling Bros. opened the Mid-South Coliseum in 1954 and played there frequently. After the Pyramid opened in 1991, its famous circus train — the largest privately owned train in the world — rolled into the Pinch District every 4th of July weekend.

The Greatest Show on Earth may be going away for good, but a man who was a part of it still calls Shelby County home, and he likes to perform here whenever he can. “I’ve had the opportunity to visit a lot of places,” Clark says. “And Memphis is a good place to be.”

In addition to his clowning, Clark’s also an accomplished burlesque show host. He’s performed with local improv groups such as the Wiseguys and the now-defunct Freak Engine. His infrequent one-man shows at venues such as TheatreWorks and the Brass Door downtown sell out faster than you can say, “That’s all, folks.”

“People love the circus,” Clark insists, still flipping past images of clowns, aerialists, daredevils, freaks, and geeks. “The circus isn’t going anywhere.” And neither is he.

So keep an eye out, Memphis. You never know when you might catch Larry Clark, a genuine local treasure, working out the kinks for his latest stand-up routine or clowning around at a street festival. Life is funny that way.

Categories
Opinion The BruceV Blog

Bill Dance Gives a Preview Tour of Bass Pro Pyramid

It’s well known that Memphis’ premier bass fisherman and outdoor TV personality, Bill Dance, is good friends with Bass Pro CEO Johnny Morris. Dance was around in November to tag along with Morris when the media were given a tour of the progress being made inside the big, pointy bait-shop.

Now, in what appears to be a video made more recently, Dance takes us on a tour from the soon-to-be swampy bottom to the spectacular view from the top. If all goes according to schedule, you’ll be able to take your own tour — and shop to your heart’s delight — beginning May 1.

Click here for the video.

Categories
Cover Feature News

Party like it’s 1989

The year 1989 saw incredible change. Revolution swept the Eastern bloc nations culminating in the fall of the Berlin Wall, collapse of the Soviet Union, and end of the Cold War. In China, protests in Tiananmen Square ended in tragedy. On the technology front, personal computers were getting smaller and smarter, and the first internet service providers launched in Australia, setting the stage for the modern internet.

In the Bluff City things were changing, too. “The Big Dig” was the city’s defining public spectacle, in which a giant illuminated shovel was dropped from a helicopter, piercing the earth on the north side of downtown, where “The Great American Pyramid” would soon be erected, charged with all the occult power of Isaac Tigrett’s crystal skull, soon abandoned, and ultimately designated as the future site of the world’s pointiest sporting goods store. A massive  fireworks display was set to the music of Elvis Presley, Al Green, B.B. King, and Otis Redding, climaxing with David Porter’s 10-minute, synth-funk-meets-New-Age oddity, “Power of the Pyramid,” which you’ve never heard of — for a reason.

Meanwhile, on the south side of town (I’d say the other end of the trolley line, but there was no trolley line), MM Corporation, then the parent company of Memphis magazine, launched a cheeky urban tabloid called the Memphis Flyer, to considerably less fanfare.

What was Memphis like in 1989, as described in the pages of a young Memphis Flyer? It was a city filled with fear, corruption, pollution, urban blight, and plenty of school system controversies. It was also a city full of artists, entrepreneurs, oddballs, and all kinds of music. And best of all, according to advertisements featuring a rainbow-striped superhero, for only seven yankee dollars Memphis Cablevision would “fully cablize” your home, including your choice of “high tech home improvements” like HBO or the installation of cable converters for non-cable-ready TVs.

Hustle & Flow director Craig Brewer was 18 years old and living in California in 1989, but the foundation of Memphis’ modern film community was already being laid. A list of Memphians to watch, compiled for a pre-launch sample issue of the Flyer, encouraged readers to “thank Linn Sitler the next time you bump into Dennis Quaid at the Cupboard.” The actor was in town with Winona Ryder filming the Jerry Lee Lewis biopic, Great Balls of Fire. Sitler, who’d been tapped to head the Memphis Film and Tape (now Film and Television) Commission in 1987, had been instrumental in bringing Great Balls to town. She was also praised for her lesser-known work with a Japanese-produced independent film identified in the Flyer‘s preview issue as Tuesday Night in Memphis. It was a languid, lovingly-shot ghost story shot in Memphis’ empty and dilapidated South Main district. It was released to critical acclaim in the summer of ’89 under the new title, Mystery Train.  

The sample issue’s list of up-and-coming Memphians also included grammy-winning sax player Kirk Whalum who went on to become the President and CEO of the Soulsville Foundation in 2010, as well as Anfernee “Penny” Hardaway, a 6′ 6″ junior at Treadwell High School who was averaging 34.5 points a game.

Although the initial “who’s who” column may have missed a few of Memphis’ future notables, many could be found lurking elsewhere within the early Flyer‘s 20-odd pages, sometimes behind bylines. Robert Gordon, documentarian and author of It Came From Memphis, and Respect Yourself, the story of Stax Records, penned a misty cover-length goodbye to jazzman Phineas Newborn Jr. The paper’s first official issue also included a column by humorist Lydel Sims that was topped by a striking caricature of Memphis Mayor Dick Hackett depicted as a bespectacled,  Nixon-nosed Egyptian pharaoh. The artwork was created by Frayser-raised actor Chris Ellis, notable for appearing in films like My Cousin Vinnie, Apollo 13, and The Dark Knight Rises.

That was also the year Memphis City Councilman Rickey Peete went to jail for the first time, and the Flyer asked if it was really the councilman’s fault that “he was out of the room when all the other politicos were learning to play the game?”

Although its focus was Memphis, the Flyer also localized national issues and stories that would define the coming decades. The Christian Right and the hyper-conservative forces that would eventually become the Tea Party were in their ascendancy; ongoing national political dialogue was captured in a pull quote from Jackson Baker’s profile of Memphian Ed McAteer, who founded the Religious Roundtable, a conservative Christian group that did much to secure the Christian right’s influence on American politics. “Liberalism in a politician,” McAteer said, “must be the consequence of either ignorance or deceit.”

If Flyer readers weren’t surprised by 2008’s “too big to fail” economic meltdown, it may be because of reporters like the Flyer‘s Penni Crabtree, who penned this prescient line in 1989: “Banks aren’t going out of business because they give loans to low-income folks — it’s because they are doing speculative real estate deals with their buddies. … Now we as taxpayers will have to bail the bastards out to the tune of $100-billion.”

Future Flyer editor Dennis Freeland was primarily a sportswriter in 1989, but he was also concerned with urban decay. While other reporters focused on the new Pyramid and the proposed Peabody Place development, Freeland turned his attention to Sears Crosstown, a “monumental” building and neighborhood lynchpin that was listed for sale for a mere $10,000. A quarter-century later, Sears Crosstown is being redeveloped, as if in accordance with Freeland’s vision.

The Dixon Gallery & Gardens opened an eye-popping exhibit featuring the lithography of French innovator Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec in 1989, but the more interesting homegrown action was happening in the weedy, rusty ruins of South Main, where the Center for Contemporary Art (now defunct), and the original TheatreWorks, an experimental venue for performing artists (now in Overton Square), were establishing the area as a viable arts district. The trolley line wasn’t proposed until 1990, and the fate of the area’s “Lorraine Civil Rights Museum,” was still in question. But something was clearly happening in the crumbling, artist-friendly ruins around the corner from the Flyer‘s Tennessee Street offices.

The Flyer‘s first food writers raved about the smoked salmon pizza with dill and razorback caviar being served at Hemming’s in Saddle Creek Mall and saw a lot of potential in Harry’s on Teur, a tiny Midtown dive with big flavor. They were less impressed by the Russian-inspired finger food at the Handy-Stop Deli and the side dishes at the Western Steakhouse, which was decorated with murals by Memphis wrestler Jerry Lawler.

 In music, Tav Falco’s Panther Burns were still bringing the psychobilly punks out to the Antenna Club, the famed alt-rock bar that, at the dawn of the 1990’s, seemed to present as many Widespread Panic-like jam bands as it did hardcore acts. Falco’s outspoken drummer Ross Johnson underscored the city’s musical diversity by writing an early Flyer feature titled “Saturday Night in Frayser,” about the Lucy Opry, a long-running country and bluegrass venue.

What did Memphis sound like at the dawn of the “Alternative” era? The college rock influence of bands like REM and Echo & the Bunnymen were carried on locally by the ubiquitous 5 That Killed Elvis. Dave Shouse of The Grifters, Easley/McCain studio engineer Davis McCain, and NTJ/Afghan Whigs drummer Paul Buchignani were playing Midtown clubs in a transitional art-pop band called Think as Incas. Shangri-La, the record store/indie label that employed Goner Records founder Eric “Oblivian” Friedl, while releasing singles and CDs by local artists like The Grifters and Man With Gun Lives Here, was one year old.

The biggest Memphis Flyer story of 1989 had to have been Leonard Gill’s “Read ‘Em and Wipe,” a cover story that collected Memphis’ best bathroom stall graffiti, including this probing question from the men’s room of the P&H Cafe: “A generation stoned. Who will do the cooking?” I am happy to report that 25 years later, the author of this brilliant line was a newly-minted Rhodes College graduate named Chris Davis who, having majored in theater and media arts, was stoned, hungry, and wondering what on earth he might do with such a silly degree.

It would be eight more years before I’d get an official Flyer byline, reviewing the Broadway production Phantom of the Opera, prior to the tour’s first visit to the Orpheum in Memphis.

You’ve got to start somewhere, am I right?

Categories
News

Bass Pro/Memphis Pyramid Deal is Shaky

Concerns over the Pyramid’s structural strength in case of seismic activity have the city and Bass Pro officials rethinking the Pinch development deal.
John Branston reports.

Categories
Opinion

From Pyramid Big Dig to Big Do-Over

pinchpyramid.jpg

The chances of an earthquake destroying the Pyramid in the next 100 years are slight. The chances of a demolition in the next few years are a lot better.

Bass Pro Shops and Robert Lipscomb seem to be resigning themselves to what a lot of people have been saying for years: the Pyramid just doesn’t work for a tenant that wants to put in a giant retail store and a hotel and get some use out of the observation deck and all that unused space in the lower level.

Seismic danger, “dueling building codes” and the bond market are getting blamed for the hit, but come on, this merry-go-round has been turning for six years. The Pyramid has become a symbol of failure, and apathy. FedEx Forum made it obsolete. The first question a visitor asks is “what’s that?” and then you have to tell them, “Yes, but, it’s empty.”

“If it costs too much to stabilize it then you have to decide if it is usable for anything,” Lipscomb said Tuesday.

It might be worth more as salvage material and bare ground. Then Bass Pro, if it is really committed to Memphis, could build what it wants instead of adapting to what is there. If the company wants a downtown presence at some other location, then Peabody Place has some space.

The status report that the city handed out Tuesday says:

“The Pyramid and Pinch District have received the most attention, but the City of Memphis redevelopment vision is much bolder. It is not about the addition of a retail magnet and a distinctive retail district, but more precisely, it is about building a thriving, active Convention Center District.

“The absence of this kind of district has always put Memphis at a competitive disadvantage in our ambitions for a successful convention center.”

The city is going ahead with its plans to acquire property in the Pinch District and the Lone Star property between the interstate ramps.

If the Pyramid is shaky, then the ancient convention center is shakier. What the city seems to be suggesting is something on the order of the new convention centers in Nashville and Jackson, Mississippi. A hugely expensive project at a time when the municipal bond market, according to daily news reports, is comparable to the stock market or the real estate market two years ago, especially for issues that are not backed by taxing authority.

The groundbreaking ceremony for the Pyramid was called The Big Dig. The odds are getting better that we will see a Big Demo before we see a Bass Pro downtown.