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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Embedded Diner

A few weeks ago, I was watching a local station’s 10 o’clock newscast when I saw a story that made me stand up and cheer with sheer joy. I was so loud in my state of ecstasy that I woke up my wife Holly, who was asleep on the sofa next to me. “What, did the Grizzlies finally win a game?” she asked. “No, something much bigger,” I replied. According to the report, a Memphis man named William Arnold was thrown out of a Waffle House restaurant in Southaven for talking too loudly on his cellphone.

Mr. Arnold, judging from your brief appearance and the few words you muttered on that night’s newscast, you seem like a decent man. Pleading your case to the camera, you said that you were only making a quick call to check on your mother. You seemed sincere. However, I have to admit that I do not feel sorry for you. In fact, I am glad they asked you to leave the Waffle House for your lack of civility. I know your type, Mr. Arnold. Do I ever.

Last year, my wife and I bought a great old house. We got a wonderful deal, but the kitchen had to be gutted and totally rebuilt. Instead of paying a contractor to do it in a couple of weeks, we decided to subcontract the job. While this approach has been cheaper, it’s also taken a lot longer than expected. What this means is that we’ve basically been without a kitchen for the past six months. What this means, too, is that we’ve eaten out almost every night for 180 days. That last sentence bears repeating: We’ve eaten out almost every night for 180 days.

In that time, I’ve come to see myself as an embedded diner of sorts. I can report that even the best meals, when eaten over and over again, can grow tiresome, and that the wait staff, no matter how friendly, gets sick of seeing you a couple times a week. But perhaps most significantly is how astoundingly rude some of the patrons can be. This is not the majority of patrons; it only seems that way given the general lack of manners and wealth of jackassery of those obnoxious few.

For instance, sitting in Huey’s Midtown I saw the strangest thing, and it left me with the impression that folks just don’t talk to each other like they used to. In a booth behind us, a man was with his girlfriend. They were a nice, clean-cut, respectable-looking young couple. Initially, he was on his cellphone having a conversation while she sat there looking bored and sad and ignored. As soon as he got off his phone, she picked hers up and started talking to someone. Now it was his turn to look sad, bored, and ignored. As soon as she ended her conversation, he picked up his phone and called someone. This went on and on and on. They took turns, volleying back and forth. I don’t think they actually spoke one word to each other the entire duration of their meal. It was surreal, almost like a Fellini film. In retrospect, I think one of them should have stayed at home, and the other should have gone to the restaurant. At least that way, they would have spoken to each other.

On another evening, I watched as a little boy took all of the sugar packets out of the ramekin on the table. He lined them up neatly, all nice and color-coded. Next, he commenced licking each and every one of them in an orderly, systematic way. Apparently, this kid has some method to his madness. He was concentrating on what he was doing, in “the zone,” if you will, so you can understand his frustration when his mother interrupted his focus and told him, in a very calm and friendly voice, to stop. He freaked out and pushed all the little packets off the table and down to the floor. Mommy picked them up and put them back in the ramekin like nothing happened. Needless to say, when dining out now, I take my coffee black.

During my experiment of culinary grandeur, I also witnessed a fair share of individuals having illicit affairs. Who needs Desperate Housewives when you can see the real thing? I saw a professor having a heated argument with his student. The student was appalled that he didn’t get a higher grade in his class since they were “sleeping together and everything.” Another of my favorites was the one I refer to as “the doctor and his lady.” She complained about being second fiddle to the surgeon’s wife. Anytime he tried to inject anything about himself into the conversation, she would erupt. For instance, he would say something about the stresses and daily grind of being a cardiovascular surgeon, and she would cut him off mid-sentence and retort with something like, “Do you think it is easy to have sex with you? Well, you are wrong.” It was beyond comical. The highlight of the conversation was when he tried to interrupt, saying, “That is irrelevant.” At that point, the gold-digging, silicone-filled, plastic-looking shallow mistress gave the heart-transplant surgeon a 15-minute education on how “irrelevant” is not a word, and he should learn to speak better to avoid sounding ignorant. It was priceless! One of the funniest things I have ever heard.

During our six-month, dining-out opus, Holly and I invented a coping mechanism to help us survive. We referred to it as the “Button and Dial.” If someone was annoying us and we wanted to put him or her out of their misery, we had an imaginary button on the table we would hit. We imagined that when the button was pressed, a laser beam would come out from the ceiling and zap this insufferable person. It would be instant annihilation, no suffering. If someone was REALLY annoying, we would slowly turn an imaginary dial. It would zap him or her in a long, slow, agonizing manner. Much suffering was involved. He or she would slowly turn red, and you could see their skeleton and eyes light up, like a cartoon. It lasted for about 30 seconds. It was brutal, but some people deserved this.

I have had the opportunity to travel quite a bit throughout this country. And at the risk of sounding like I am trying to suck up to the restaurant community to get a free meal or two, I must say that for a town its size, Memphis has some wonderful restaurants and a wide selection of choices for even the most discriminating of palates. The vast majority of our meals were great, and my family started some dining traditions I hope we will continue when our kitchen renovation is finished.

Despite my grumblings, much positive came from my social experiment. After being embedded frontline in these eateries for six months, I have a newfound respect for the wait staff of this city. I can’t tell you how many times I saw a patron ask a waiter, “Will I like this?” And I can’t tell you how many times I wished the waiter would have said, “How the hell should I know what you like, lady?” But I never did hear this reply. Nor did I ever see a waiter mistreat a customer. Most were happy, friendly, and personable folks. In fact, I highly recommend that you dine out frequently and enjoy our city’s high-quality eating establishments. My only advice to you is not to do it (or anything else) for six months straight.

Greg Graber, a native Memphian, is a freelance writer and educator. His “Greg Graber Growl” column appeared on the Grizzlies’ NBA Web site for three years, and he was named “Best Self-Promoter” by the Flyer staff in the 2001 Best of Memphis issue. You can contact him at ggraber.blogspot.com.

Categories
Music Music Features

Three’s Company

Jem Cohen, the ascot-sporting bassist for the Ettes, has got it made. He gets to play energetic ’60s beat rock, and, as the only male in the band, he gets to spend a lot of time with two beautiful ladies and travel around in a psychedelic van solving mysteries. Okay, I made up the last part. Nonetheless, the L.A.-based trio with a vintage look and sound seems to be having a blast and getting along as they head into the final weeks of a two-month tour through Canada and the U.S. Drummer Poni Silver quips, “Ask us how well we’re getting along in another three weeks.”

All three members, including guitarist and frontwoman Coco Hames, are from the East Coast but didn’t meet until they were in Los Angeles. They are finding that La-la Land isn’t the easiest place for a retro-rocking, non-trendy group to survive.

“It’s hard because you’re competing against the sons and daughters of famous people who have all of these connections in the music business,” Cohen says. “Though the place is big enough for different styles, the scene is so fragmented.” Hames half-jokingly adds, “We tour all the time because everyone in Los Angeles is so industry.”

In 2004, Hames and Silver decided to form a band. Where the girl group in Dreamgirls drops the “-ettes” from their name, Hames wanted to embrace the feminine aspect of the name and “be the suffix.” After trying out a couple of girlfriends on bass, the two decided on Cohen, sacrificing the gender purity of the group for band chemistry. Cohen says, “One of the reasons we do get along so well is that we love the same music — Carl Perkins, Buddy Holly, the Beatles.”

After months of rehearsal and songwriting, the Ettes decided to cut their first proper record. They aimed high and far away. They contacted Liam Watson, who had produced Billy Childish, Holly Golightly, and the White Stripes, and arranged to record at his Toe Rag Studios in London. The Ettes financed the trip themselves.

“We wanted to do it and didn’t think about what would happen next,” Hames remembers. In London, the group got to meet their musical idols, Childish and Golightly.

Soon after, the Ettes were able to convince the Sympathy for the Record Industry label to release their debut, Shake the Dust. Though the label is based in SoCal, many of its acts hail from Detroit or, in the case of Jack Yarber’s multiple projects, Memphis. In fact, Falling James Moreland, Courtney Love’s first husband and noted transvestite punk rocker/critic, recently wrote, “Let’s hope we don’t lose this ever-touring group to Detroit or Memphis. The Ettes fit in better with rootsy revisionists like the Detroit Cobras and the Oblivians than they do with most L.A. bands.” He might have good reason to be fearful. The Ettes are indeed looking for a nice place to relocate. According to Hames, the phrase “shake the dust” is about moving on from the past.

One place the Ettes are considering is Asheville, North Carolina. Hames’ folks live there, and it’s also the home of former Memphian Greg Cartwright and his band the Reigning Sound. The Ettes aren’t ashamed to admit their admiration for Cartwright’s music, both the Oblivians (which Cartwright was a member of along with Yarber and Goner Records’ Eric Friedl) and the Reigning Sound. The Ettes have even recorded a cover of the Reigning Sound’s “We Repel Each Other.” Their streamlined, poppier version lacks the raw power and emotional urgency of the original, but it does have a charm of its own.

Hames’ voice, equal parts Ye-Ye girl sweetness and party-gal rasp, is much better suited to Shake the Dust‘s low-key, melancholy closer, “I Wanna Go Home.” It would also seem to be a perfect match for “My Baby Cried All Night Long,” a Nancy Sinatra cover that the Ettes have been working into their live repertoire. Hames, in a stylish baby-doll dress, could easily be Nancy Sinatra’s understudy. The band’s impeccably mod fashion sense is evident not only in their publicity shots but offstage as well. Hames says, “I dress the part every day. People need to understand that it comes from my history as a debutante.”

To give you an idea of how many shows they have played on the recent tour, the Ettes’ upcoming show will be their second in Memphis this year. Even with the relentless touring schedule, Cohen seems more than content in his role as the Jack Tripper of the garage-rock set.

“We are excited about coming back to play,” Cohen says. “Everyone was very energetic in the audience, and we even attended a late-night dance party after the show.”

Categories
News The Fly-By

Fly on the Wall

The Recipe

From The Healthy Memphis Blog: “If Santa left a pet hamster under your Christmas tree, you might want to know … pet rodents, including hamsters, are an underappreciated source of salmonella infections in humans.” The HMB failed to report that hamsters should never be served raw or rare and should be cooked until the internal temperature is at least 180 degrees Fahrenheit. Serve with pesto or a nice chimichurri sauce.

Headline of the Week

After reading The Commercial Appeal article about Michael Frick, recently named market president for Bank of America in Memphis, it became clear that the 48-year-old banker was indeed a rising star in the industry. And yet, “Frick A Rising Star in Banking” reads a little too much like a euphemistic personal ad.

King’s Crown

According to WHBQ, the family of Henry Weiss, D.D.S., will auction off a model of Elvis Presley’s teeth and a crown made especially for Presley. Let’s all hope and pray the King didn’t have a proctologist.

Headline of the Week II

A clever headline can be a thing of beauty, but who at the Memphis Daily News thought it was a good idea to title a brief about the Memphis Area Limb Loss Support Group, “Out on a Limb”? At least there was no mention of a “hoppin’ good time.”


Innocent!

Your Pesky Fly would like to thank everyone for their concern and for all the offers of cake, cookies, and conjugal visits. But when the CA reported that “Authorities have identified Christopher Davis, 20, of Memphis, as the alleged robber who was shot while trying to rip off an armored car,” it wasn’t me. Still, if any of those offers still stand, I do hate to see a good cookie go to waste.

Categories
Opinion

Criminal Confusion

In addition to the crime problem, the police and sheriff’s department have a trust problem and a communication problem.

Victims can’t get their 911 calls answered or routed promptly. Community watchdogs can’t get officers to respond to known trouble spots. Prosecutors can’t lock up all the violent criminals they convict. City Council members don’t necessarily believe additional cops would be deployed wisely and well, and they’re reluctant to raise property taxes to pay for them. And the federal investigation of police corruption, Operation Tarnished Blue, has taken a toll on public confidence.

These are the messages that come out of community forums, press conferences, and interviews with elected officials and crime experts. To use a football analogy, Mayor Willie Herenton and Police Director Larry Godwin are backed up inside their 20-yard line as they push for 650 more officers over the next three years and a property tax increase of at least 50 cents to pay for them.

A community forum hosted by councilwoman Carol Chumney last week in East Memphis produced these comments:

From a neighborhood leader, speaking to a police captain: “What can we do if we know there’s a problem and we can’t get you?”

From Sheriff Mark Luttrell on the 911 problem: “Bartlett, Memphis, and Shelby County each have separate 911 systems. Consolidating it is expensive. It will be two years until it will happen.”

From Chumney: “At a Crime Commission meeting two months ago, Director Godwin told me point-blank they did not need more officers.”

From Shelby County prosecutor Tom Henderson: “We [Tennessee] have some of the weakest gun laws in the United States. Our laws suck.”

From former Police Director Buddy Chapman, now head of Crime Stoppers: “A community suffers only as much crime as it is willing to.”

A police captain and an inspector from Central Precinct listened and responded for nearly three hours, as did Chumney, Luttrell, Henderson, and Chapman. But there was no consensus on what works to reduce crime and what should be done.

Chumney, a likely candidate for mayor in 2007, couldn’t resist the temptation to lecture Herenton and Godwin, who, not surprisingly, had declined her invitation to attend the event. She thinks the police department’s problem is management more than manpower. It’s a fact that Godwin has done a complete turnabout on overtime and more cops this year, and Herenton’s plan looked slapdash. His cost numbers, for example, are based on 500 cops, but he asked for 650. But Chumney’s political digs aren’t helping. The issue isn’t who was first; it’s what to do now.

Chapman’s comment seemed to blame the victims. Was he suggesting Memphians are apathetic? That they should arm themselves? Move away? Spring for 650 more cops? Hire 650 more teachers instead? He didn’t say.

Henderson, when pressed, said Memphis needs a lot more cops. But the veteran prosecutor also noted that his office handled 100,000 cases last year. Even with tougher laws and stiffer sentences, locking up all the bad guys would require another jail.

The one we have processed 53,000 people last year. Luttrell said he would ask for 35 to 40 more deputies in his next budget because calls for service are up. But when he fielded a question about why crime is currently on the rise, he lapsed into banalities about social inequities. Everyone knows Memphis has poverty, gangs, and injustice. The question is why people in the same circumstances decide to start or stop committing crimes. The “broken windows” approach to crime epidemics says that context matters and that smart policing and swift prosecution can significantly influence behavior.

The Memphis Police Department answered 540,000 service calls during the first eight months of 2006. Godwin has said the manpower shortage is so severe that lieutenants are responding to calls because no officers are available.

Asked about the proposed 650 new cops, Michael Heidingsfield, president of the Memphis Shelby County Crime Commission, said, “It certainly can’t hurt, as long as they’re deployed properly. But the number of police is never the long-term solution.” He favors getting rid of the residency requirement but opposes relaxing the education standard. Corruption is a confidence killer, he said, and without public confidence “the cause is lost.”