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We Saw You

WE SAW YOU: Friends and Family Night at Bishop

I attended the friends and family night at Bishop restaurant August 3rd at Central Station Hotel. According to the invitation, the event was held so Bishop could reveal its new menu.

The restaurant was closed several days prior to the event. The invite stated, “We are using this time as a reset. We have spent this week fine-tuning our space, while revamping and refreshing our current systems.”

I asked Andy Ticer, who, along with Michael Hudman, owns the restaurant (along with Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen, Catherine & Mary’s, and Hog & Hominy restaurants), what that meant.

“Sometimes we need to take a second and re-evaluate what we’re trying to achieve and how we’re getting there,” Ticer says. “And if the way we are doing it is the best version of that. 

“And we felt we needed to dive into the food and the hospitality and just kind of do a refresh. Slow it down for a second and really concentrate on training. And just focus on getting dialed in there. Sometimes we need to do that every once in a while.

“That takes a couple of days to get in there and talk to people. What works and what doesn’t. Ways to become better.”

I asked what ways they felt they could get better. “Hospitality. From when you walk in the door, our table-side service, and, of course, the menu and the knowledge that the team has on cocktail, wine, and food.”

Brittney Bohannon, director of food and beverage for Central Station Hotel; Alex Grant, operations manager for Enjoy AM Restaurant Group; Ingrid Meza Carcamo, Bishop general manager at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Ryan Radish, wine director of Enjoy AM Restaurant Group at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)

They also have a new chef: Christopher Zelinski, who started two weeks ago at Bishop, Ticer says.

Chef Christopher Zelinski at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)

First of all, I think Bishop is one of the most beautiful restaurants in Memphis. I’ve heard the view from the inside looking out compared to being in a restaurant in New York or Paris.

The interior of the 3,500 square-foot space has black-and-white Cathedral-style flooring and lots of windows. Natalie Lieberman of Collect + Curate Studio with the help of Anna Wunderlich designed the interior, which Lieberman told me in a 2019 story that she created as a narrative based on the name “Bishop.”

As my story states: “Earthly elements, including leaves and mushrooms, combine with objects, including keys and bells, that go along with ‘Bishop,’ Lieberman says.

“There’s also a ‘spiritual underlying theme’ with the stars, beads, and tarot card, she says.

“A bishop’s cape from France is in a frame on one wall. Butch Anthony of the Museum of Wonder in Alabama created the hand painting in the dining room.

“‘Moody and rich textured’ was the feel she was going for at Bishop, Lieberman says.”

I loved everything I ate. My favorite was the escargot with persillade, country ham, lemon butter, and popovers. And make sure you try the shishito peppers with potatoes, lemon, chives, and crispy onions.

Escargot at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Shishito peppers at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Josiah Hoss at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)

I also loved the tuna carpaccio with green beans, sun gold tomatoes, bell peppers, tarragon, olives, and capers.

Tuna Carpaccio at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Alexandra Mobley at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)

The tasty “Steak Frites” was a New York strip, French fries, and sauce au poivre. They also serve chicken, snapper, lamb chops, “Mussels & Frites,” and the “Bishop Burger.”

My all-time-favorite Ticer-Hudman restaurant dessert, “Sticky Toffee Pudding,” is on the menu. I also tried the perfect creme brûlée with vanilla, orange, and caramelized sugar.

Sticky Toffee Pudding at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Creme Brulee at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)

As the menu describes the restaurant, Bishop is “a fine place at the corner of South Main and G. E. Patterson.”

I agree.

Webb and Tate Wilson at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Tonia Bailey and Tyra Johnson at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Henry Turley and Wanda Shea at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Billy and Robin Orgel, Susan Lindy, Jim McGoff, Lauren McGoff, Jay Lindy at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Abigail and Sam Stovall at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Sabine Bachmann, David and Libby Huffman, Rena Chiozza, and Katie, Corrie, and Ellie Hudman at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Karie Ticer, Brandon Ticer, Janet Ticer, Bill Ticer, Brandon Ticer, Jim McGoff at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
We Saw You
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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

The Gray Canary to Close

The Gray Canary, one of the restaurants owned by Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman, is closing this week.

Asked about the move, Ticer says, “Not to say we might not open it some place else, but we’re definitely going to miss that hearth. It was a fun thing to cook on.”

The announcement was made on The Gray Canary Facebook page: “Memphians, this week (January 24-28) will be a celebration of the final week of service at The Gray Canary. As our lease comes to a close, we wish our friends at Old Dominick Distillery the best of luck as they expand their event space. The past five years at 301 S. Front St. have been memorable and we thank all of the staff and guests who have enjoyed the space over the years. Come hang out with us this week Tuesday-Saturday and celebrate everything we love about this special place.”

Another post reads, “The Gray Canary was born on a vision. From the very start, chefs and owners Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman stayed true to a dream of a restaurant in Downtown Memphis that encompassed energy, excitement, and fire. From the raw bar to the hearth, The Gray Canary is full of surprises.”

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Hungry Memphis

Hog and Hominy Opens Friday, November 5th

On entering the newly rebuilt and redesigned Hog and Hominy the other night, co-owner Michael Hudman told his wife how the restaurant has an “old Art Deco diner feel.”

From the silver metal lettered sign out front to the fluted light fixtures in the dining room and just the general vibe, the new Hog and Hominy indeed has a diner feel — a diner that serves Neapolitan-inspired pizzas instead of patty melts.

The new Hog and Hominy opens to the public Friday, November 5th.

After a fire January 9th, 2020, the new Hog and Hominy, one of the many restaurants owned by Hudman and Andrew Ticer, was rebuilt. It’s about twice as large, says general manager Evan Potts. They expanded the restaurant as far as it would go in all directions, he says. Now, entering the restaurant on the right front instead of on the left side, diners will see the bar in a separate but open area on the right and the dining room on the left.

The new Hog and Hominy (Credit: Michael Donahue)

J. D. Caldwell with Carlton Edwards Architects was lead architect. Natalie Lieberman of Collect + Curate did the interior design.

Ticer loved the fact they had a “blank slate” to work with. They were able to “reimagine” the restaurant without being confined to the former “three bedroom house” they originally had with the pre-fire structure. They were able to “think out of the box.” 

Nick Talarico instructs the staff at the new Hog and Hominy (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Front patio at the new Hog and Hominy (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Front patio at the new Hog and Hominy (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Interior of the new Hog and Hominy (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Interior of the new Hog and Hominy (Credit: Michael Donahue)

Justin Solberg is chef de cuisine at the restaurant. The fare will include “Neapolitan-inspired pizza,” Potts says. “We like to have that wood fire crust that has that little bit of toothsome-ness to it. The chew, if you will. And super thin in the middle to showcase what we put on top.”

There will be new pizzas as well as old favorites, including the Thunderbird and Red Eye.

Meet the Hog and Hominy kitchen and staff (from left): Trevor Anderson, Evan Potts, Michael Hudman, Ryan Jenniges, Ryan Dunn, Justin Solberg, Andrew Ticer, Zach Hart, Jamie Lawrence, and Ronnie Roberson. (Credit: Michael Donahue)

The pizzas will be the entrees. They also will serve snacks and small plates — “Little things to share for the table.”

And, Potts says, “We do a lot of fun takes on traditional Italian fare. We like to twist it. Like taking the idea of eggplant parmesan and substituting pork belly. Italian ideas and twisting them and putting the little Southern spin on it like we do.”

They will continue to serve their craft cocktails, which Hog and Hominy is known for. For instance, Potts says, “The same old fashioned where we make the orange bitters in house.”

They also got their own barrel of Maker’s Mark whiskey from Empire Distributors to make their old fashioned cocktails.

Hog and Hominy also does its own take on the dirty martini, but instead of the usual olive juice, they make their own brine using shishito peppers, which gives it more of a “vegetable flavor,” Potts says. “You’ll still have the salty flavor, but it adds a whole other depth of flavor to it.”

Hog and Hominy is at 707 West Brookhaven Circle; (901) 207-7396

Hog and Hominy (Credit: Michael Donahue)
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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Award-Winning Chefs Ticer and Hudman Talk Bishop, the Fire at Hog & Hominy, and More

Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman have been busy opening a new restaurant, reacting to a fire at Hog & Hominy, and being honored by the James Beard Awards. Here’s a look at what’s happening with the award-winning chef team.

MF: How does your new restaurant, Bishop, complement or contribute to the presence of French cuisine in Memphis?

Hudman: Memphis is always, to us, a place that starts by acknowledging where we come from. French cooking is rooted in that same style of techniques, passed down, done right. It’s about mentorship. These are things that we value in our company. We’re always looking for ways to build our people, and this was a natural entry point. When the idea came to us, it just made sense to flex those old muscles as a callback to where we started. The moment that we saw the space that Natalie Lieberman had designed and the collateral and branding from Loaded for Bear, it clicked. We’d wanted to do a French brasserie for a while, and here it all was, ready to go.

Ticer: It’s funny. My brother Olivier is from France, and he just happened to be in town the week we soft opened. He told us that, often, brasseries are attached to train stations and breweries, and here we were opening one in a train station. It just made sense. We have our homage to Downtown trattorias at Catherine & Mary’s, our riffs on Southern food and oysters from the fire at The Gray Canary, and then our classic French spot attached to a train station.

Memphis-based restaurateurs Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman (left to right)

What was it like opening a restaurant in the Central Station Hotel?

Ticer: There are challenges to opening any restaurant, but a restaurant in a hotel is a fun experience. We have to focus on all aspects of the food and beverage, from Eight & Sand and Bishop, to the events in the Grand Hall. The biggest challenge is that we really opened three spaces at once, so there are a lot of moving parts that needed to be focused on all at once.

Hudman: For us, it’s all about assembling the right team who can carry that culture of our restaurants. We want everything to feel like it was paid attention to and thought about for our guests, and that takes some time to get right. We opened in the middle of the holiday season, too, which was pretty intense.

How did your experience at Chez Phillippe contribute to the development of the menu and culture at Bishop?

Ticer: Chez Phillippe was such an amazing experience where we really learned to cook and really understood for the first time what it meant to cook with high standards. Chef Jose Gutierrez taught us so much about how to cook, how to pay attention to the details. A lot of the traditional menu items we first tasted cooking there, and after, when we were in Lyon, we were like, “Oh, this is how that started.”

The new Bishop restaurant inside Central Station Hotel

What are some menu recommendations you would make for someone visiting Bishop for the first time?

Hudman: That’s always so hard because we love everything. But the tinned seafood is really special and really specific to European cuisine. We have a lot of classic items to French cooking that we’re not trying to reinvent the wheel on, just make it properly. Salade Lyonnaise, French onion soup, tarte flambée, the raclette. It’s about the classic preparation, and we had fun testing until we had it right.

Ticer: I love to start with the grand aioli or the escargot, and the spinalis is beautiful. But there are lots of things. I think go in with an open mind and try things you haven’t heard of. And drink some wine! Ryan Radish, our wine director, really had a field day putting together this 150-bottle, all-French list that is really beautiful and fun to drink from.

How does Bishop benefit from being part of the Central Station Hotel?

Ticer: When we first met with McLean Wilson about the hotel and he gave us his vision of it, we were like, yeah, this will be a cool thing to be a part of, a place that celebrates Memphis and really feels local. We really appreciated that McLean wanted us to open our restaurant inside the hotel and not the other way around, a hotel restaurant. It allows us a lot of freedom to do exciting and fun things with the menu. Just like our experience with Ace, there’s a lot of infrastructure that the hotel has that gives us the ability to do things we’ve never done before, including working with these awesome design teams. Because the hotel really wants to function as the living room of South Main, we see a lot of guests from all over, but we’re still a part of the fabric of South Main and the Memphis community, rather than separate from it.

Another of your restaurants, Hog & Hominy, suffered an electrical fire earlier this year. How has the restaurant and the staff recovered since then?

Hudman: It’s been a real process. Our first priority was to get everyone working, and we met with everyone as a group, and individually, to make sure they were happy going to another restaurant. Our team was loyal to Hog & Hominy, and none of them wanted to leave, but they understood and are now doing their thing throughout the company. They’ve added a lot, too, to those restaurants, and when they come back for the reopening, they’re going to have learned a lot. It’s like an extended externship for them.

Ticer: We’re going through the insurance process now, which can be pretty frustrating at times. But what we know is that we’re bringing the existing structure down and starting over. Fitting Hog & Hominy into a ranch house was always something we were working around, even during the remodel that started last year. So now, we’re starting over with a blank slate. It will always need to feel like the old Hog & Hominy, but we have an opportunity to address things like comfortable chairs, noise, kitchen layout, server stations. It’s going to take longer than we hoped, but we’re not afraid of taking our time to get it right.

The James Beard Awards are an extremely high honor, recognizing chefs and restaurateurs from across the country. How did it feel to be named semifinalists once again — and also to be the only semifinalists from Memphis?

Hudman: It’s a huge honor to be on the list. I mean, just looking over the list of the chefs on there from our region and around the country, it’s really humbling to see your name on there. Our teams work so hard to produce in the restaurants, so while it is our name, it’s a nod to them as well. We can’t do it without them.

Ticer: Memphis is growing around the country as a place to come and visit, to see, to move to. We’re a city of history, culture, and great food in all kinds of restaurants. It’s an honor to represent that on a stage like the James Beard Awards.

What’s it like representing Memphis cuisine to those who may not be familiar, or who might think of Memphis food as just barbecue and fried chicken?

Ticer: You know, I think that Memphis might be known for barbecue and fried chicken, but we think of Memphis food as coming from the family table. It’s about feeding people because you care. We grew up and got into food because of our grandmothers and our family meals. Sure, you might get yelled at, but there was always good food, and everything came from a place of love. If we can make people feel cared for, then we’re showing them what Memphis food is.

What’s next for the Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman team?

Hudman: We are mainly focused on getting Hog & Hominy back open, but we do have lots in the pipeline. We’re just about finished with the redesign of the interiors at Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen that Natalie Lieberman has headed up. We’re trying to make that restaurant feel updated and even more comfortable for our guests. And we have some plans to move into Catherine & Mary’s for some adjustments as well. It’s been running for four years and needs a little love. Mainly, we’re focusing on making sure that the restaurants feel good for the guests and work for the staff.

Learn more about these award-winning chefs at enjoyam.com.

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We Recommend We Saw You

Raiford’s is Everywhere, Bishop guest chef dinner, “Charlie and the Chocolate Factory”

I didn’t get to every party in 2019, but one event I wish I would have attended was the wedding of Lauren and Alex Solomito.

Their wedding had a semi-Paula & Raiford’s Disco theme.

“We had the light-up dance floor at the wedding,” says Lauren, 27. “And my bridesmaids and I got ready with custom shirts that had the Raiford’s Disco logo on the front. On the back it says, ‘I know Paula Raiford.’”

Lauren says she worked with Paula Raiford, owner of the club, over a month “to get the right colors and sizes. I went down to Raiford’s in the daytime a few times.”

She and her bridesmaids wore the T-shirts before they donned their wedding attire.

The light-up dance floor, which they rented, was similar to the one at Raiford’s. “It was some company Lauren found in Memphis,” says Alex, 28. The dance floor “did not just light up, but changed colors.”

Raiford’s is where Lauren and Alex rekindled their relationship after many years.

“We’ve known each other since third grade,” Lauren says. “And I liked him and he didn’t like me all through school. Then we kind of separated after middle school. He went to ECS (Evangelical Christian School) and I transferred to ECS. We were boyfriend-girlfriend in eighth grade and we went to church together. And then we were best friends in high school. We tried to date in high school. Seven years after high school we lost touch. We ran back into each other at Raiford’s on January, 2017 and started dating again. Then we got engaged in June of 2018.”

Raiford’s had to be a part of the wedding. “Raiford’s was my favorite place,” Lauren says.

“I absolutely love Raiford’s,” Alex says. “I’ve probably not been there as many times as her. Raiford’s is different from any other dance club in Memphis. It’s fun. Everybody is there. It’s solely just to have fun.”

And, he says, “Of all places to run back into her, it would be Raiford’s.”

Alex’s attire also had a nod to Raiford’s. “I even ordered light-up shoes. So, the soles of the shoes flashed different colors to make it more exciting. At one point I got out of my tux shoes and put on some light-up shoes. You constantly change colors like the dance floor did.”

His socks had a special meaning, too. “They were socks with corn dogs on them. We both are obsessed with Pronto Pups. And we actually had a Pronto Pup stand at our wedding. You know how people have light-night Krystal burgers or Taco Bell tacos? Something really simple. We decided to do Pronto Pups.”

They held the wedding September 21st 2019 at the Children’s Museum of Memphis complete with the carousel.

The Soul Shockers performed. The band performs “music like they play at Raiford’s,” Lauren says.
  

She set the date on September 21st because her favorite song, Do You Remember by Earth, Wind & Fire, includes the line, “Do you remember the 21st night of September?”

She wanted to hold her wedding whenever the 21st of September fell on a Saturday. “I planned my wedding five years before this wedding happened,” she says. “I wanted it to be on that date because of that song.”

Lauren didn’t know at that time who the groom was going to be, but, she says, “I thought, ‘Surely, I’ll find someone by then.’”

The song also is special to Alex. “It happened to be one of my favorite songs,” he says.

Paula Raiford says others have used Raiford’s in some form at their wedding event.

One wedding reception had an entertainer dressed like her father, the late Robert Raiford, “with the hair, suit, and glitter,” she says.

She’s had several wedding proposals at Raiford’s “Two or three of those.”

And people take wedding photos at Raiford’s before their wedding. “They do an outside inside photo shoot.”

Kelly Ginn Photography

Alex Solomito gets down – literally – on the Raiford’s style dance floor at his and Lauren Solomito’s (standing) wedding reception.

Kelly Ginn Photography

Lauren Solomito and her bridesmaids wore Paula Raiford T-shirts before they dressed in their attire for Lauren and Alex Solomito’s wedding.

Kelly Ginn Photography

Michael Donahue

Stephen Stryjewski guest chef dinner at Bishop

Stephen Stryjewski was the first guest chef at Bishop, the Andrew Ticer/Michael Hudman restaurant at Central Station Hotel. Bishop is the chef/owner duo’s newest restaurant. The dinner, a benefit for The Madonna Learning Center, was held on January 6th.

Stryjewski is chef/partner of New Orleans award-winning restaurants, including Cochon, Cochon Butcher, and Pêche Seafood Grill.

He joined Ticer and Hudman in the kitchen to prepare the five-course dinner, which included crab au Gratin with chili oyster crackers and sauteed speckled trout with fried squash and crushed herbs.

Dessert was individual king cakes from La Boulangerie bakery and cafe, another Stryjewski establishment.


MIchael Donahue

Stephen Stryjewski guest chef dinner at Bishop

Michael Donahue

Stephen Stryjewski guest chef dinner at Bishop

Michael Donahue

Ashley Calhoun and Marty Brooks at the ‘Charlile and the Chocolate Factory’ Memphis premier at The Orpheum.

First nighters got the first chance to see Charlie Bucket and his Grandpa Joe visit Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory in the musical, “Charlie and the Chocolate Factory,” which opened January 14th at the Orpheum. The musical, which was adapted from the book of the same name by Roald Dahl, also was made into two movies: Willy Wonka & the Chocolate Factory (1971) with Gene Wilder and Charlie and the Chocolate Factory with (2005) with Johnny Depp.

I never saw any of the movies or read the book. And everybody I confessed that to before I saw the musical was astonished. I do know how to play The Candy Man on the piano. Anthony Newley and Sammy Davis Jr. made recordings of the song.

“Charlie and the Chocolate Factory” will run through January 19th at The Orpheum.


Michael Donahue

Mason Gast and Katie Upton were at the ‘Charlile and the Chocolate Factory’ Memphis premier at The Orpheum.

Michael Donahue

Landon Fox and Jessie Yelvington were at the ‘Charlile and the Chocolate Factory’ Memphis premier at The Orpheum.

                                      WE SAW YOU AROUND TOWN

Michael Donahue

James Alexander and Alice Henry, founders of Kaleidoscope School of Memphis, at the Little Tea Shop.

MIchael Donahue

Gina Picerno, Brett Healey, Carson Irwin, and Tim Guarino at Strano by Chef Josh.

Michael Donahue

Onie Johns and Betty Winter at Caritas Community Center & Cafe.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Bishop Restaurant Slated to Open in Mid-December in Central Station Hotel

Michael Donahue

Bishop dining room

Meet “Bishop,” the newest restaurant brought to you by Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman, chef/owners of Catherine & Mary’s, The Gray Canary, Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen, Hog & Hominy, and Josephine Estelle in New Orleans.

Bishop, a 3,500 square-foot space in the Central Station Hotel on the corner of South Main and G. E. Patterson, is slated to open to the public in mid-December.

It was named Bishop after the late Church of God in Christ Bishop G. E. Patterson.

The food will be French brasserie style served in a “more upscale environment,” says assistant general manager Pablo Villarreal. But still in a “more casual setting.”

Guests will start with “le comptoir” (the counter), which are “snacks high in acid and salt that will be great to start off to cleanse your palette and get you ready to enjoy the menu,” Villarreal says. These will include tinned seafood, which are “delicacies common in France – baby eel, baby squid, and calamari.”

They then will move on to “petite plats” (small plates), which include escargot and oysters, and “grand plats” (large plates), which include steak au poivre, chateaubriand, and lamb chops.

Desserts, including crepe cake, will be made in house by chef Kayla Palmer.

Ticer and Hudman always wanted to open a French restaurant. They worked under chef Jose Gutierrez (River Oaks chef/owner) for five years at Chez Philippe in The Peabody. “We learned our palette from him,” Ticer says.

He and Hudman fell in love with the French “philosophy and approach to food” when they went to cooking school in Southern France.

Bishop seats 130, the bar area seats 18, and a private dining room seats 18, says general manager Emily Stanford.

The interior, with its black-and-white Cathedral style flooring and lots of windows, is a perfect accompaniment to the food. The approach was “keep the old train station feel,” Villarreal says. As if you’re “still in a train station having a drink.”

Natalie Lieberman of Collect+Curate Studio with the help of art consultant Anna Wunderlich designed the interior of Bishop.

Lieberman says she “started with a story” when she began work on the restaurant. “The only info I had was the name ‘Bishop,’” she says. She began to “create a narrative.”

Earthly elements, including leaves and mushrooms, combine with objects, including keys and bells, that go along with “Bishop,” Lieberman says.

There’s also a “spiritual underlying theme” with the stars, beads, and tarot cards, she says.

A bishop’s cape from France is in a frame on one wall.

Butch Anthony of the Museum of Wonder in Alabama created the hand painting in the dining room.

“Moody and rich and textured” was the feel she was going for at Bishop, Lieberman says.

She succeeded.

Diners will agree.

Michael Donahue

Bishop

Michael Donahue

Bishop

Michael Donahue

Bishop

Michael Donahue

Michael Hudman and Andrew Ticer at Bishop.

Michael Donahue

Natalie Lieberman, Pablo Villarreal, and Emily Stanford at Bishop.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Best Bets: The Birdie Sandwich at Eight & Sand

Michael Donahue

Chef Dorje Meta with The Birdie sandwich at Eight & Sand.

The Birdie might be the most unusual sandwich I’ve ever tasted. It’s chicken, but there’s a lot going on beneath the two slices of brioche.

It’s the most popular item on the menu at Eight & Sand, the elegant new Andrew Ticer/Michael Hudman bar in Central Station Hotel, says Dorje Meta, executive sous chef for Eight & Sand, the hotel, and the hotel’s upcoming Bishop restaurant.

The Birdie is a “wet-batter fried chicken” sandwich, Meta says. “It’s coated in Calabrian honey. We, basically, take the oil from those Calabrian peppers and we emulsify it in the honey, so it’s super spicy. And then we have a dill aioli. We make a dress slaw out of that. And then dill pickles on a brioche. It’s pretty simple, but pretty elegant little bar food.”

I asked Meta what he liked about it. “It’s got the elements of a classical chicken sandwich. It’s got the aioli and good solid brioche. I actually grill the brioche with butter. It’s a normal brioche, but it’s elevated with the dill, obviously. And that pairs really with the pickles that are already on there.”

The “genius thing” about The Birdie is that honey, Meta says. “The honey is really intense. It’s spicy. If you took a spoonful of the honey by itself it’s not fun. It would be adventurous. But on the sandwich you’re not trying to down some milk ‘cause it’s too spicy. Everything on there has a purpose.”

The spice, he says, is “balanced by the slaw. So, it’s a very balanced sandwich. You can’t really slow down when you eat it. It’s just gone.”

The sandwich was developed by Ticer and Hudman for “Birdies & Bubbles,” the pop-up restaurant they did at the the 2019 WGC-FedEx St. Jude invitational at TPC Southwind.

So, as photographers used to say, “Watch the birdie.” But you can watch this Birdie quickly get gobbled up at Eight & Sand.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Gray Canary Sous Chef Heats Things up on Stage and in the Kitchen

Bailey Parks Patterson spent much of his 26 years trying to figure out if he wanted a career in food or music.

Patterson, now sous chef at The Gray Canary, says, “I’ve always been a big dude. I’ve always liked food. I always wanted to eat and try new things.”

But he also loved playing music after he learned to play bass in high school and joined his first bands, Voltron and Up-State.

Michael Donahue

Bailey Parks Patterson

He spent two semesters at Southwest Tennessee Community College, but he dropped out because he “couldn’t find the motivation.” He just wanted to play music.

Patterson’s first restaurant job was at Ubee’s. “Driving food around town and prepping hamburger balls,” he says. “Just goofy little things. Washing dishes.”

Six months later, he began cooking, then working as daytime manager and tending bar. “I did everything in a restaurant real quick. Figured it out slightly enough to where I was like, ‘I like this.’ It felt good doing it.”

Working at a restaurant gave him “a weird sense of confidence,” he says.

Two years later, Patterson left Ubee’s and got a job as a pizza cook at Hog & Hominy, where he worked with owners Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman. “I got to work right next to them in the kitchens a lot and learn straight from them. Learning from Mike Hudman how to extract pizza dough was pretty cool. Especially for a 22-year-old.”

He created his first pizza when the restaurant was closed because of snow. He and a couple of other cooks came in to feed the yeast starter. “We made some dough, and we were like, ‘We might as well start the oven and cook some pizzas.’ I threw some stupid stuff on a pizza.”

It was a hit. “It was like Canadian bacon and red sauce and some cheese. And some lemon zest and something else. Nothing fancy by any means. But Mike was like, ‘Hell, yeah. Snow Day Pie.’ For whatever reason, the bacon was sliced real thin and it curled up. He just freaked out.”

They ran the Snow Day pizza as a special for several weeks after the restaurant re-opened.

“It definitely fired me up,” Patterson says. He still wanted to play music, but he says, “It made sense for me to be in a kitchen because it’s like-minded people. It’s like a judgment-free zone. Everyone does their own thing, looks their own way, says what they want. We’re pirates.”

Patterson progressed to salads, desserts, and the hot line, and “just tried to learn everything that I could,” he says.

He then moved to the old Porcellino’s Craft Butcher, which also was owned by Ticer and Hudman. He joined a new band, Pillow Talk. They recorded their full-length album in Tolono, Illinois, with Matt Talbott, vocalist/guitar player from Hum, at Talbott’s “really cool, crazy studio.”

“That was definitely the coolest adventure music ever took me on,” he says.

Eight months later, Patterson moved to The Gray Canary, where he began as a cook working on the open fire hearth. He joined Overstayer, a hardcore band, a few months later.

Patterson quickly moved from cook to chef tournant, the person under the sous chef. That’s when he decided his focus was going to be on cooking instead of music. “I felt like it really clicked,” he says. “Because I always knew this is a cool thing I can do. And I feel like I’m good at it. And I’ve made my way.

“I see kids my age or older or younger coming in fresh out of culinary school who just can’t hang,” he says. “They know they have good information, but when it starts going, they can’t because they’ve never worked in a serious restaurant. So, all of the sudden it’s like, ‘I need this right now. Hey, I need this. Where’s that? This doesn’t taste right. Redo it.’ And they go down.”

Two months ago, Patterson was made sous chef.

So, how does he identify himself? A chef or a musician? “A chef,” Patterson says. “That’s the first time I’ve said that, but I guess that really is what I’m doing now. And what I want to do.”

The Gray Canary is at 301 South Front. Visit thegraycanary.com for more info.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Eight & Sand Opens in Central Station Hotel

Michael Donahue

Eight & Sand opens October 24th.

Eight & Sand opens at 4 p.m. Thursday, October 24th in Central Station Hotel.

The sleek, new bar fills up the train station’s old waiting room. Travelers still can wait in the old space, but now they can wait in groupings of four to eight people at mixed Mid-Century-style tables and chairs and sip classic drinks, including martinis and Manhattans. They also can try a “Memphis Bell,” “Hurricane Elvis,” and “Knuck if you Buck” cocktails.

They also can listen to Memphis music.

The restaurant is by Andrew Michael and Andrew Ticer, who brought you Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen, The Gray Canary, Catherine & Mary’s, and Hog & Hominy restaurants. Ticer and Hudman partnered with Central Station Hotel to do the bar and the upcoming Bishop restaurant, which is slated to open November 15th.

“Eight” is the highest throttle or “top speed” on the train and “Sand” stands for the sand they used to throw on the tracks so the train wheels wouldn’t slip, says Central Station Hotel food and beverage director Evan Potts. So, the name means “wish you a safe and speedy journey.”

The also Mid-Century looking bar features 10 seats as well as seats for the disabled.

The emphasis is on cozy. The vibe for Eight & Sand is “the living room of South Main.”

The look of the room is “clean” without feeling “sterile,” Potts says. “It’s so warm and so fun.”

They want Eight & Sand to be where people stop for a drink before a show at The Orpheum or other venue and then re-visit it after the performance or game, he says.

The bar menu will include “small snacks” or “share-ables,” Potts says. These will include the pimento puffed pastry, which was a popular item at the old Ticer/Hudman restaurant,  Porcellino’s Craft Butcher.

All the music is either recorded in Memphis, by Memphis artists, or about Memphis, Potts says. The console in the deejay booth is an old organ.

Vinyl records will be played by deejays, but programmed Memphis music also will be played when deejays aren’t in the booth.

So, what’s the first song to be played at the opening? “Probably ‘Melting Pot,’’” says music curator/head deejay Chad Weekley. The Booker T. & the M.G.s song is “a good track,” Weekley says. And, he says, the song “sums up our city.”

Michael Donahue

Eight & Sand

Michael Donahue

Eight & Sand

Michael Donahue

Eight & Sand

Michael Donahue

Eight & Sand

Michael Donahue

Eight & Sand

Michael Donahue

Eight & Sand

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

All-Star Chef Lineup to Celebrate Andrew Michael’s 10th

andrewzimmern.com

No two have done more than Michael Hudman and Andy Ticer (Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen, Hog & Hominy, Catherine & Mary’s, Gray Canary) to make Memphis a really interesting place to eat. Sure, good food was here eons before Ticer and Hudman, but what they’ve brought is style, drive, and wit to their food. They both push boundaries while paying upmost respect to their forebears.

On October 22nd, Andy and Michael are marking the 10th anniversary of Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen with a block party at Old Dominick Distillery, next door to their latest restaurant The Gray Canary. And, they invited some guests to help celebrate — some top-notch guests …

Carey Bringle (Peg Leg Porker, Nashville); Sean Brock; Gerard Craft (Pastaria Nashville; Sardella, Taste Bar, Brasserie by Niche & Porano Pasta, St. Louis); Kelly English (Restaurant Iris); Jose Enrique (Jose Enrique, Puerto Rico); Sarah Grueneberg (Monteverde, Chicago);Kevin Gillespie (Gunshow, Atlanta); Erling Jensen (Erling Jensen); Jeremiah Langhorne (The Dabney, Washington, DC); Jonathan Magallanes (Las Tortugas); Kevin Nashan (The Peacemaker & Sidney Street Café, St. Louis); Ryan Prewitt(Pêche Seafood Grill, New Orleans); Patrick Riley (The Majestic Grill); Chris Shepherd (UB Preserv, Houston); Jason Stanhope (FIG, Charleston); Stephen Stryjewski (Cochon, New Orleans); Ryan Trimm (Sweet Grass & Next Door); Jason Vincent (City Mouse, Chicago); and more chefs to be announced.

Expect a toast or two …

Davin & Kellan Bartosch (WISEACRE Brewing Co); Alba Huerta (Julep, Houston); Jayce McConnell (Edmund’s Oast, Charleston); RoyMilner  (Blackberry Farm Brewery, Maryville, TN); Preston Van Winkle (Old Rip Van Winkle Distillery, Louisville); and more to be announced.

Tickets are $250; $350 VIP. Benefiting St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital.