Tag: Michael Patrick

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis Uncategorized

Rizzo’s is Closing

Angel and Michael Patrick at the recent Youth Villages Soup Sunday

Rizzo’s, a South Main staple for several years, is shutting its doors at the end of March.

“We’re going to close at the end of the month,” says chef/owner Michael Patrick. “It’s just a numbers game again. I can’t have a better quality living doing what we’re doing. Labor costs, food costs. And everything is out of whack.” Patrick says he and his wife, Angel, talked it over. The issue: “What do we do to somehow find a way I can make more money?”

“I’m having to increase pay to my employees,” he says. “I’m having to increase costs to the menu. Things are not what they were or could be.”

Rizzo’s originally opened October, 2011, on G. E. Patterson Avenue near Main Street. It moved to its current location at 492 South Main in March, 2015.

Patrick originally moved to Memphis from Ohio to open the now-defunct Elvis Presley’s Memphis on Beale Street. He then worked for chef Erling Jensen before going to work at McEwen’s on Monroe, where he stayed for seven years. “That’s where I kind of cut my teeth in the city,” says Patrick. He then worked at EP Delta Kitchen and Bar before opening his own place.

Patrick, who describes the food at Rizzo’s as “Southern-inspired,” says, “We always gave consistently great food and consistently great service. If the food is great and service is great, people are going to come back.”

Patrick, who comes from a fine-dining background, says, “I took that and tried to make more homey-type food. Comfort food. Just executed at a chef’s level.”

Patrick says he believed in giving impeccable service, which included “crumbing tables, switching out wine glasses, not letting the entree hit the table before the appetizer has been cleared. Rizzo’s is definitely a little more relaxed than fine dining. I call it ‘casual fine dining.’”

Patrick plans to stay in the area. “My wife’s got children in Mississippi and we’re not going anywhere. If I went anywhere it would be Southaven or here in Memphis. I don’t see myself leaving Memphis.”

And Patrick can’t say what’s next, at this point. “I don’t know. I’m talking with some folks, trying to get things in line. But right now I’m just focusing on the close here, and I’m quite sure my reputation and good name will make something happen.”

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Best Bets: Cheeseburger Soup at Rizzo’s

Thanks to chef Michael Patrick, you can have your cheeseburger — and drink it, too.

He created his version of Cheeseburger Soup, one of the hot — as in popular and temperature — items at his restaurant, Rizzo’s by Michael Patrick.

“The very first restaurant I worked at, they had a version of this soup there,” Patrick says, adding, “They had pickle and tomato and a little crouton on it, but I decided to make my own version.”

Rizzo’s chef Michael Patrick serves his up cheeseburger soup.

Just about the only thing missing in Patrick’s Cheeseburger Soup is the hamburger bun. “I start out with onions and garlic, and I sweat them out with a little bit of butter. I add a roux with flour. Then I add milk, heavy cream, and we let that thicken up really nice. And then I add Zatarain’s Creole mustard and English mustard — both spicier-type mustards; not your normal [brands]. It’s got a really good kick,” Patrick says. “Zatarain’s has got horseradish in it, which I like.

“Once I add all that, I brown off a bunch of 80/20 ground beef. Then I’ll add that to the mix. Then I’ll add the cheese, which is a cheddar cheese and cheddar jack blend. I let all that come together. And then I add lettuce and tomato at the end. I don’t want to break it up by mixing it up. I fold it in. I’ll dice up the tomatoes and kind of shred the lettuce.”

People refer to it as “a cheeseburger in a cup,” says Patrick. “It tastes like a cheeseburger.”

Patrick, who is from Painesville, Ohio, says he had never heard of Rotel dip before he moved to Memphis. “I noticed it at some people’s house during a football game. Cheeseburger Soup is very similar to Rotel. It’s not nearly as cheesy, but it has some good similarities. So I was telling people: ‘I’m going to make you some Yankee Rotel.’ And all I made was Cheeseburger Soup.”

Rizzo’s also features traditional-style hamburgers on Mondays. “Beer and Burger Night is what we call it.” Describing the Rizzo’s Burger, Patrick says, “I’m always looking for a nice, juicy, kind of dripping-down-my-hand burger. But what makes, I think, my burger unique is the seasoning. I put a little Lawry’s, Worcestershire, shallots.”

And, he says, “There’s something about a burger that’s done on a flat top.We do that here, and it seals in that juiciness of the burger.

“But the Cheeseburger Soup is on the menu all the time,” he adds.

As for the popularity of his Cheeseburger Soup, Patrick says, “It won me Soup Sunday a couple of years.” That’s the annual Youth Villages fundraiser, which just made it under the wire this year before the pandemic shut down fundraisers.

Rizzo’s was closed between March 23rd through June 2nd, Patrick says. It had to shut down again July 24th after a kitchen employee tested positive for the virus. They had the restaurant re-sanitized and will reopen this week.

Patrick has his tables “six feet apart. We have hand sanitizer on every table. As soon as somebody leaves, we break everything down. We temp you when you come in the door. You have to have a mask to enter. These are things we’ve been doing since we got back open June 2nd.”

Patrick wants the public to know what’s going on at Rizzo’s. “Putting those things out there to people, posting about it, kind of solidifies that they know we care and we’re willing to take measures to make the place safe for people.”

And, he says, “If you invite someone into your home, it’s a safe environment. We’re inviting people into our restaurant. So it needs to be a safe environment.”

Rizzo’s by Michael Patrick is located at 92 S. Main; (901) 304-6985.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Rizzo’s reopens; the Arcade now open late.

CREDIT: Justin Fox Burks

Rizzo’s Diner reopened last week at its new location on South Main.

The menu at Rizzo’s is one-of-a-kind; crammed with the kinds of crazy juxtapositions that could only come from the twisted brain of Michael Patrick. This, after all, is a man who became a chef only after he got kicked out of high school for fighting.

Take the Lobster Pronto Pup ($14). Even the name is a provocation, combining haute cuisine (lobster) with the lowest common denominator (carnival food). All right, it’s a bit of a gimmick. But this tempura-fried treat lives up to the hype: It is plump and buttery, with a mustard aioli that is off the hook.

The same goes for the Lamb Belly Tacos ($9) and the Chorizo Meatloaf with Green Tomato Gravy ($18). Seriously, who charges $18 for meatloaf? But take one bite, and you’ll know it’s worth it.

As for the new space, it feels like Rizzo’s has come home. For starters, it’s a lot bigger. The new kitchen is almost as big as the old diner — big enough, says Patrick, for an enthusiastic chef “to do backflips on the line.” And the décor — cherry wood, exposed brick, high ceilings, abstract canvases — feels just right for this arts district.

That’s a relief, considering how long Rizzo’s was out of commission. The old spot closed on November 1st, but a persistent, leaky roof at the new place meant that Patrick couldn’t open until late February. Especially in the food industry, three months is an eternity.

“I was always told take when you think you’re gonna open and add 30 days,” says Patrick. “But realistically, we needed to add 60 or 75.”

One other complication: Winter weather has delayed Rizzo’s liquor license, so for now, it’s BYO wine. But Patrick hopes to have booze in time for his grand opening on March 14th. He also hopes to celebrate by hiring a dozen bagpipers. And no, he’s not kidding.

Rizzo’s Diner, 492 S. Main, 304-6985

rizzosmemphis.com

The other day, I was sitting at a booth in The Arcade Restaurant. Last one on the left, by the back door. I noticed that the confetti-colored tabletop was getting pretty worn, and I thought, Gosh, that has to be from the ’50s. Why don’t they replace it?

Then I remembered: Elvis used to sit here. Hell, it was probably Elvis’ elbows that made those little marks. They’re never gonna replace that tabletop.

The Arcade, Memphis’ oldest restaurant, recently started staying open late on weekends: from 7 a.m. till 11 p.m. on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. For now, they aren’t changing the menu. But they have added a lineup of cocktails including build-your-own bloody marys and mimosas.

To me, the most promising is the “Shake it Like the King” ($9), a vanilla milkshake spiked with Bailey’s, banana rum, peanut butter, and fresh bananas.

Back in the ’50s, when Elvis was a regular, South Main was Memphis’ answer to Times Square, crowded with neon signs and clattering trolleys. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was alive and well, and the train station at GE Patterson was still the most reliable way to get from here to there.

That’s why The Arcade is staying open late. Because all of a sudden, there are people. There’s even a bit of a nightlife. What better reason to order some sweet potato pancakes — for dinner?

The Arcade Restaurant, 540 S. Main, 526-5757

arcaderestaurant.com

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

RECIPE: Mike Patrick’s Grilled Bratwurst Sandwich with Green Tomato Chutney

CREDIT: John Klyce Minervini

John Klyce Minervini

Chef Mike Patrick

Sometimes the planets align and the sandwich gods smile down on us.

That’s what happened the other day, when I went with Mike Patrick of Rizzo’s Diner for a Farmers Market Challenge. (Read all about it in this week’s Flyer!)

To fight the encroaching darkness, Mike made one of the best things I have ever put in my mouth: a grilled bratwurst sandwich with green tomato chutney.

Something that good deserves to be shared. So happy holidays! Here’s the recipe. And if you’re interested in sourcing your ingredients locally (hell yes!), just scroll to the bottom of the page.

John Klyce Minervini

Mike Patrick’s Grilled Bratwurst Sandwich with Green Tomato Chutney

Mike Patrick’s Grilled Bratwurst Sandwich with Green Tomato Chutney
45 minutes
2 sandwiches

Ingredients:

2 pears
2 semi-tart red apples
2 green tomatoes
¼ cup granulated sugar
¼ cup white wine vinegar
1 tbsp honey
salt and pepper
4 brats or mild Italian pork sausages
1 loaf ciabatta bread
olive oil
4 oz. fresh, herbed goat cheese
handful of kale
2 tbsp chow chow or pickled relish

Light grill, preheat to 350 degrees. Meanwhile, seed apples and pears. Dice apples, pears, and green tomatoes. In a medium pot, combine apples, pears, green tomatoes, sugar, vinegar, honey, and 2 tbsp pickle juice from the chow chow. Bring to boil, then reduce to simmer. Simmer for 20 minutes, or until fruit (chutney) is soft. Salt and pepper to taste.

While chutney is simmering, grill brats on one side for 3-4 minutes. Rotate brats and cover. Grill for an additional 4 minutes. Remove brats and set aside. Divide ciabatta loaf into two sandwiches. Brush inside of each sandwich with olive oil and lightly toast for 1-2 minutes. Slice goat cheese into ½-inch medallions.

To assemble sandwiches, begin with bread. Add kale (don’t overdo it). Add brats (2 per sandwich). Add chutney (2 tbsp per sandwich). Add goat cheese (2 medallions per sandwich). Top with chow chow (1 tbsp per sandwich). Serve immediately.

Local tastes better! We recommend buying ciabatta from Cucina Bread, brats from Lazy Dog Farms, green tomatoes from Jones Orchard, goat cheese from Bonnie Blue Farm, and your chow chow from Old Apple Hill Brine. Cheers!

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Chef Mike Patrick takes the Farmers Market Challenge

CREDIT: John Klyce Minervini

Going to the Memphis Farmers Market with Mike Patrick is a bit like walking around with the mayor. Everybody knows him, and we end up stopping every few feet to talk feed with pig farmers and chanterelles with mushroom hunters. And, you know, kiss babies.

“I’ve been coming here since day one,” admits Patrick. “I used to have a piece of ribbon from the ribbon cutting on my refrigerator.”

Patrick is the owner and chef at Rizzo’s Diner, which will open at its new location on South Main in the next week or so. Today he’s taking the Flyer‘s Farmers Market Challenge, where I team up with a local chef, we go shopping at the farmers market. Then we make something delicious with what we buy.

John Klyce Minervini

Michael Patrick

Patrick is a good-natured guy and built like a house. This is a good thing, because today the temperature is 49 degrees, and the wind is howling. Here and there, shoppers in heavy overcoats pick through the last of the year’s harvest, while at one end of the market, a valiant guitarist plucks out the chords to the Beatles’ “Eight Days a Week.” Searching through a crate of winter apples, Patrick sings along.

“Ooh, I need your love, babe,” he croons, “guess you know it’s true.”

Patrick’s road to the kitchen has been an interesting one. He says it all started at age 15 when he got kicked out of high school for fighting. Never one to sit and sulk, he went out and found a job as a dishwasher, simultaneously enrolling in a culinary arts class at a vocational school.

“What made up my mind was the teacher,” he confesses. “She was 32 and super hot.”

From there, he went on to work with chefs Mac Edwards and Erling Jensen, before opening Rizzo’s in late 2011. At the time, he described his menu as “comfort food, uncommonly comfortable,” and it wasn’t long before people started taking notice. To cite just one example, Food Network’s Guy Fieri, for his show Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, stopped by in 2012 for a taste of Patrick’s Chorizo Meatloaf with Green Tomato Gravy ($18).

“You get a completely blindside shot from that green tomato gravy,” raved Fieri, through a mouthful of meatloaf. “That green tomato gravy is nuts.”

To warm us up on this chilly Saturday, Patrick is planning to make a grilled bratwurst sandwich with green tomato chutney. I’m all for it. We get the brats from Lazy Dog Farms and the tomatoes from Jones Orchard — then round out our shopping bag with a loaf of ciabatta from Cucina Bread, barbecue pickles from Old Apple Hill Brine, and some herbed goat cheese from Bonnie Blue Farm. Then, it’s time for lunch.

Patrick lives in a cozy, one-bedroom apartment in a converted hotel on North Main. It’s a grand old building with crown molding and a marble lobby, but the best part is definitely the view. When we head up to the roof to grill the brats, it’s all there: City Hall, the M Bridge, and the Pyramid.

“I like to come up here in the summer and watch the fireworks,” says Patrick, while the brats sizzle on the grate. “I’ll grill up some steaks and make margaritas.”

Back in Patrick’s kitchen, we start slicing the tomatoes. And if you’ve never seen the inside of a green heirloom tomato, let me recommend it to you. They’re like little works of art in there — little paintings by William Turner, grading in color from pale green to peach to gold to pink.

We sauté the tomatoes with apples and pears, then add a mixture of vinegar, sugar, and pickle juice. While the chutney reduces, we slice the pickles, goat cheese, and some kale. Then it’s go time.

Ladies and gentlemen, there are moments in life when the planets align, the clouds open up, and the sandwich gods smile down on us. This was one of those moments. The green tomato chutney was sweet and tart, beautifully cutting against the heartiness of the brats. And the goat cheese added just the right note of herbed creaminess to the blend.

To make a sandwich that good, you have to believe in what you’re doing. You have to mean it. Fortunately, that’s not a problem for Patrick. As we finish our sandwiches, scraping the leftover goat cheese off our plates, he confesses that for him, cooking isn’t just a job — it’s a calling.

“I’m not gonna be a doctor,” he says. “I’m not gonna find a cure for cancer. But I can cook. And by being able to serve somebody a dish that came from my heart, I’m doing my part to make Memphis a little better.”
Editor’s note: The print version of the story had the opening date as Saturday, December 20th. Unforeseen delays have pushed the opening for another week or so.